Appendix
Reading edition
A BILL OF MATERIALS
To the clothing manufacturer or journeyman tailor this table of materials required for the various garments tells nothing new; but the average retailer of clothes likely knows but little of it; while to the man in the street, the consumer, it is doubtless all news and possibly full of wonderment.
So far as is known, this is the first time such a list has been compiled.
The Cloth Required
Men’s wear woolens, worsteds, etc., are commonly 54 inches wide. These yardages are figured on that basis.
A sack suit requires 3¼ to 3¾ yards.
An evening dress suit requires 3¼ to 3¾ yards.
A Tuxedo suit requires 3¼ to 3¾ yards.
A cutaway frock suit requires 3¼ to 4 yards.
A double-breasted frock suit requires 3¼ to 4 yards.
A Norfolk jacket and trousers require 3¼ to 3¾ yards.
A hunting coat and trousers require 3¾ yards to 4½ yards.
A top coat requires 2¼ to 3¼ yards.
A Chesterfield overcoat requires 2¾ to 3½ yards.
A raincoat requires 3 to 4 yards.
An ulster requires 3½ to 4½ yards.
A skirted overcoat requires 3½ to 4 yards.
Trousers require 1¼ to 1½ yards
Hunting and broad fall trousers require 1½ to 2 yards.
Riding breeches require 1⅜ to 1¾ yards.
Waistcoats, single-breasted, no collar, require ¾ to 1¼ yards 27″ goods.
Waistcoats, single-breasted, notch collar, require ⅝ to 1⅜ yards 27″ goods.
Waistcoats, double-breasted, no collar, require ⅝ to 1¼ yards 27″ goods.
Waistcoats, double-breasted, notch collar, require 1 to 1¾ yards 27″ goods.
Linings, Findings, Etc., Required for Coats
Evening Dress Coat Tuxedo Coat Cutaway or Walking Frock Sack Coat, Single or Double Breasted Norfolk Jacket Top Coat Raincoat Chesterfield Overcoat Ulster Double Breasted Frock Skirted Overcoats
Serge, silk or satin, 30 inches. 2⅛ to 2¾ y (a) 2 to 2½ y (a) 2¾ to 3½ y (a) 2 to 2¾ y (a) 3 to 5 y (c) 3 to 5 y (b) 5 to 7 y (c) 6 to 8 y (c) 2¾ to 3½ y (c) 6 to 8 y (c)
Mohair, Serge or Alpaca, 32 inches. 2¾ to 3½ y 2¼ to 2¾ y 2 to 2¾ y 2¾ to 3½ y 2¾ to 3½ y (b) 3 to 5 y 4 to 6 y 2¾ to 3½ y
Venetian or Italian cloth, 54 inches. 1⅛ y 1 to 1½ y 1½ to 1¾ y 1 to 1½ y 1 to 1½ y 1¼ to 1½ y 1 to 1½ y 1¼ to 2 y 1¾ to 2½ y 1½ to 2 y 2 to 2½ y
Satin, 27 inches. 2¾ to 3¼ y 2¾ to 3 y 3 to 5 y 6 to 8 y 6 to 8 y
Silk or satin sleeve lining, 40 inches. ¾ y ¾ y ¾ y ¾ y ¾ y ¾-y
300_
Satin sleeve lining, 21 inches. 1½ to 1¾ y 1½ to 1¾ y 1½ to 1¾ y 1½ to 1¾ y 1½ to 1¾ y
Grosgrain facing silk. 27 inches. ¾ y ⅝ to 1 y ¾ y
Canvas. ⅝ y ⅝ y ⅝ y ⅝ to 1 y ⅝ y 1 to 1¼ y 1⅜ to 1¾ y Length of Coats ⅝ y 1 y
Haircloth. 18 inches. ½ y ½ y ½ y ½ y ½ y ½ y ½ y ⅝ y ⅝ y ½ y ½ y
Silesia, (pocketing, etc.) ½ y ½ y ½ y ½ y ½ y ½ y ½ y ½ y ½ y ½ y ½ y
Canvas stay. ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y
Pocket stay, (Holland.) 1–9 y 1–9 y 1–9 y 1–9 y 1–9 y 1–9 y 1–9 y 1–9 y ¼ y 1–9 y 1–9 y
Sleeve wigan. ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y
Felt. ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y
Stay tape. 5 to 7 y 5 y 5 to 8 y 5 to 8 y 5 y 6 to 10 y 8 to 10 y 8 to 10 y 8 to 10 y 8 to 10 y 8 to 10 y
Collar canvas. ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ to ¼ y ⅙ y ⅙ y
Collar velvet. ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y ⅙ y
Pocketing velvet. ⅓ y ⅓ y ⅓ y ⅓ y ⅓ y
Buttonhole twist. 6 y (d) 6 y (d) 6 y (d) 6 y (d) 6 y (d) 6 y (d) 6 p (d) 6 y (d) 12 y (d) 6 y (d) 12 y (d)
Button thread, (linen.) 2 sk 2 sk 2 sk 2 sk 2 sk 2 sk 2 sk 2 sk 3 sk 2 sk 3 sk
Buttons. 8 l 1 link 4 to 6 s 4 s 1 link 8 l 4 to 6 s 2 to 6 l 4 to 8 s 4 to 6 l 4 to 8 s 4 l 4 s 4 l 4 s 4 l 4 s 8 l 9 s 8 l 6 s 4 to 8 l 6 s
Wadding. (sheets.) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Wool serge lining. 1¾ to 2½ y
Abbreviations: y - yard; l - large; s - small; sk - skein;
Notes: (a) includes back for waistcoat; (b) lined to the waist; if lined thruout add 1¾ yards extra; (c) includes sleeve lining; (d) single thread measure.
Linings, Etc., Required for Waistcoats
Silk or satin lining for back, 30″, ⅝ yard; Venetian or Italian cloth ⅝ yard;
Mohair, serge or alpaca ⅝ yard.
Sateen, 40″, ¾ yard for inside; 1½ yard for inside and outside back.
Silesia pocketing, ¼ yard; “chamois” watch pocketing, 6 × 9 inches.
Buttons, 4 to 6 for single breast, 6 to 8 for double breast. Linen thread for sewing buttons, 1 skein; buttonhole twist, 1 yard (6 strands).
Stay tape, 2½ yards. Wigan ⅝ yard. 1 buckle.
Linings, Etc., Required for Trousers
Sateen, 40″, ¼ yard. Broad falls, ½ yard.
Pocketing, ½ to ⅝ yard.
Linen pocket stay, 1–18 yard.
Silesia, 1–9 yard, Wigan, 1–9 yard.
Buttons, 6 large, 5 small, (6 if made without hook-clasp).
Hook-clasp, 1. Buckle, 1 large, (or 2 small at sides).
Button thread, linen, 1 skein.
Rubber tissue (good tailors seldom use it), 1–18 yard.
Knee silk (a luxury), ¼ yard.
301
A GENERAL DIAGRAM OF CORRECT ATTIRE
Here’s your “mentor, guide and friend”
Formal Evening Occasions (1) Informal Evening Occasions (2) Formal Day Occasions (3) Informal Day Occasions (4) Business Wear (5) Outing, Motoring, Etc. (6)
Evening dress coat YES yes no no no no
Tuxedo coat no YES no no no no
Prince Albert no (14) yes (?) (14) YES yes no (?) no
Cutaway or walking coat no no no (?) (15) YES yes no
Sack coat (7) no no no no YES yes
Norfolk jacket no no no no no YES
Waistcoat (18a) (8) WHITE or black (16) black (17) white, fancy or SAME (18) white, fancy or SAME (18) SAME or fancy (18) use optional
Trousers (18a) black black same or fancy (18) same or fancy (18) same (18)
Skirted overcoat (9) yes (19) yes YES yes yes seldom (20)
Sack overcoat (10) yes yes yes YES YES if needed
Top coat no no no yes YES YES
Raincoat yes (21) yes yes yes yes yes
Ulster no no no (?) no (?) YES YES
Shirt and cuffs (11) white white white white white or fancy fancy
Collar standing fold or wing standing or wing standing or wing folded or wing folded or soft
Cravat white tie black tie white or fancy ascot Four-in-hand or ascot Four-in-hand or tie tie or kerchief (22)
Jewelry (12) PEARL or moon stone (23) gold gold gold gold gold
Gloves (13) WHITE or black gray gray gray or TAN gray or TAN tan or chamois
Hat silk or opera (24) FEDORA or derby (25) silk (26) Silk or fedora Derby or fedora Cap (26)
Shoes PATENT BUTTON or pumps (27) patent button or lace patent button patent button black or tan button or lace shoes or oxfords tan lace shoes or oxfords
Explanatory: (1) Evening wedding, balls, receptions, opera, dinner; (2) club, stag, informal and home dinners; (3) day weddings, receptions, afternoon calls, matinees; (4) church, promenade, afternoon teas, matinees; (5) business and professional routine; (6) golf, motoring, outing and country; (7, 8, 9) single or double-breasted; (10) single-breasted, fly-front sack overcoat; (11) for 1, 2, 3, 4 white dress shirt and cuffs; for 5, white or fancy, dress or plaited bosom; for 6, neglige cotton, linen or flannel; (12) links and studs only with 1 and 2, cravat pin and watch fob or chain with 3, 4, 5, 6 optional; (13) glace or suede kid optional; cape or chamois preferable with 6; (14) the double-breasted frock is the proper dress coat for clergymen upon all occasions; (15) the flapt walking coat of conspicuously patterned material is not good form, tho the cutaway frock of plain fabrics and style is allowable; (16) figured gray silk is allowable; (17) white, also figured gray silk, allowable, but black is preferable; (18) “same” means same as coat; (18a) if fancy waistcoat is worn trousers must match coat, if fancy trousers are worn waistcoat must match coat; (19) business cape coat is preferable for strictly formal dress; (20) frock coats are correct for driving, races, hunting, etc.; (21) obviously not if of tan color or conspicuously figured pattern; (22) or soft stock; (23) very small gold studs are unobjectionable, diamonds and the like absolutely impossible; (24) fedora is allowable, derby never; (25) silk is considered bad taste, opera hat the hight of vulgarity; (26) fedora permissible; (27) pumps preferable for dancing; (?) sometimes allowable; small capitals indicate order of preference.
302
SELF MEASUREMENT
By “self measurements” no one means, literally, that a man can, unaided, take his own measurements for any sort of garment satisfactorily. It is better with help—any help. So all tailors, clothiers and outfitters use the term in the sense of “assisted” home measurements—which, if the instructions in the measurement charts usually supplied by the dealers are followed, will do nearly as well as if taken by experts in the store. The supplementary instructions and information in this chapter as to fashionable lengths, proper proportions, how to measure, etc., should be of real help in arriving at well-fitting garments.
Any one can measure or be measured by another—it’s just a matter of understanding what and how to do, and doing it that way.
The customer should be sure that he stands in a natural position, without inflating or contracting the chest. Any deviation from the natural form will affect the fit of the garment. Remove from pockets anything of a bulky nature before measuring.
Coat and overcoat measurements should always be taken over the vest. The length of the coat and the length of the sleeve are the first measurements to be taken. In taking sleeve measurements the arm should be held about on a level with the shoulder, the elbow crooked at right angles, which will make the hand about twelve inches from the face. Measure from center seam in back over elbow to the hand side of wrist joint. In taking the length of coat, measure from seam where collar joins the coat to proper length. The length should be regulated by your desire and hight; see also the proportionate tables.
After taking these two measurements (with the coat on) remove the coat and take the breast measure over the vest. Be sure that the tape is straight around the body over shoulder blades and close up under the arms. If the stomach is prominent, in addition to the waist measure, another measure should be taken around the larger part, a little lower down.
Vest measurements should be taken over the vest, using the vest one has on as a pattern. The tape should be drawn from seam at back of neck to top button of the vest. If a higher or lower vest than the one worn is desired, allowances should be made. For a double-breasted vest the measurement should be taken to the point of the V opening and not to the first button. The second measure should extend from seam at back of neck as before to bottom of vest. The breast measure for the vest should be the same as for the coat.
In measuring trousers one must stand erect. Place end of tape as close up in crotch, on inside of leg, as you can get it and measure from that point to where the heel joins the shoe. In measuring waist take length around the top of trousers over the waistband. 303Always use the trousers one has on as a guide for measurements, making the leg wider or narrower as desired. The knee measurement should usually be about two inches larger than the bottom measure. The average size for knee is 18½ inches and for bottom 16½ inches; see also proportionate tables following. That the cutter may make trousers of proper proportion at bottom, be sure and indicate the size of shoe worn and state if the instep is high or low. “Right dress” and “left dress,” indicating a certain difference in the crotch-fulness of one trouser leg, is also important.
Describe your physical peculiarities minutely—and be sure that the descriptions are accurate in every detail. These descriptions are sometimes as important to a cutter as are the measurements. In making descriptions be sure and remove the coat; coats are often padded so as to overcome natural defects. Any irregularities in the form should be clearly indicated on the order.
Be sure and state whether or not the measurements are taken over light or heavy underwear, also if garment is to be worn over light or heavy underwear. State if broad, sloping or regular shoulders; erect, stooping or extra so either way; whether short or long neck and if the neck is thick or thin—better give shirt collar size; give age, hight, weight and your business, which will obviate a minister getting clothes a racing man might wish, or vice versa. A photograph helps much.
When ordering overcoats to be worn over frock or dress coats, care should be taken to have the overcoat at least two inches longer than the under coat.
The width of legs of trousers should vary according to the size of the seat measure. The usual measurements are:
When seat measures less than 36, knee 18, bottom 16.
When seat measures from 37 to 44, knee 19, bottom 17.
When seat measures over 44, knee 20, bottom 18.
Don’t attempt to make allowance measures for peg-top or half-peg trousers unless one has an old pair to be copied exactly. Take ordinary measurements and say in the letter of instructions just how full they are to be—the cutter, if he knows his business, knows better than the customer what to do.
Use care in giving weight, hight and age; they are a great help to the cutter and almost indispensable to a successful fit.
Compare the measurements as written on the order sheet with the foregoing chart. While there may be some variation, due to physical differences, and for which scientific allowance will be made by the cutter if necessary, the lengths of coats and vests should be given on the order as in the table if one wishes garments cut in the fashion of the day—it being understood that freak garments such as undergraduates and rounders affect are not bound by these wise and sane suggestions.
304
Proportionate Table of Measurements
For Guidance of Customers Ordering by Mail
Hight (basis of measurements) 5 ft. 2 in. 5 ft. 3 in. 5 ft. 4 in. 5 ft. 5 in. 5 ft. 6 in. 5 ft. 7 in. 5 ft. 8 in. 5 ft. 9 in. 5 ft. 10 in. 5 ft. 11 in. 6 ft. 6 ft. 1 in.
Average weight 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180 190 200
Breast 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42
Waist length, frock, Prince Albert and dress coat 17 17¼ 17½ 17¾ 18 18¼ 18½ 18¾ 19 19¼ 19½ 19¾
Length of cutaway or walking coat 33¼ 33¾ 34¼ 34¾ 35¼ 35¾ 36¼ 36¾ 37¼ 37¾ 38 39
Length of dress or Prince coat 37 37¾ 38½ 39½ 40½ 41½ 42 42½ 43 43½ 44 44
Length of single-breasted sack 27 27½ 28 28½ 29 29½ 30 30½ 31 31½ 32 33
Length of double-breasted sack 27½ 28 28½ 29 29½ 30 30½ 31 31½ 32 32 33
Length of Chesterfield sack overcoat Should state if to wear over frock or sack coat or both
Length of vest 23½ 24 24½ 24¾ 25 25¼ 25½ 25¾ 26¼ 26¾ 27 27½
Outside seam of trousers including waistband 39½ 40 40½ 41¼ 42¼ 43 43½ 44¼ 45 45½ 46 46½
Inseam of trousers 29 29½ 30 30½ 31 31½ 32 32½ 33 33½ 34 34½
Sleeve Measure sleeve of old coat from seam under arm to cuff, adding ½ inch
Length of top coat One and one-half inches longer than double-breasted sack
Length of rain coat 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57
Length of skirted overcoat One inch less than rain coat
Length of ulster Same as rain coat
Length of Tuxedo coat Same as double-breasted sack
When the hight is shorter and the weight heavier, the breast will be larger than the proportionate table shows. When the hight is higher and the weight less, the breast will be smaller than the table shows.
When the breast is larger than the seat, take the measure again, as this is unusual. Be careful that the personal description is thoro.
305
PERIODS OF MOURNING
For a wife, widowers wear mourning for one year to eighteen months; second mourning, if adopted, usually being at the expiration of a year.
For a husband, widows wear mourning for two to three years, lightening at intervals of six months.
Grass widows and widowers do not wear mourning for the departed.
For parents, gentlemen wear mourning for six months to one year; women usually wear it for two years.
For a brother or sister, gentlemen wear mourning for six months to one year; women usually one year.
For a child, fathers wear mourning six months to one year; mothers usually a full year. For an infant, three months.
For grandparents, few men wear mourning; but if they do, second mourning for three to six months is considered sufficient; women wear mourning six months to one year.
For uncles, aunts or cousins, men seldom adopt mourning, unless second mourning for one to three months; women for three months.
For grandchildren, it is considered unnecessary—or perhaps too admonitory.
It will be noticed that women always grieve longer than men—at least by outward symbols.
TO MEASURE FOR A HAT
Adjust tape measure around head at a point level with the center of the forehead.
Hat size Inches around head
5⅝ 18¾
6 19
6⅛ 19⅜
6¼ 19¾
6⅜ 20¼
6½ 20¾
6⅝ 21
6¾ 21½
6⅝ 21⅝
7 22¼
7⅛ 22½
7¼ 23
7⅜ 23⅜
7½ 23¾
7⅝ 24
7¾ 24½
7⅝ 25
8 25¼
Boys’ sizes run from 5⅝ to 7; mens’ from 6¾; the largest size commonly carried in stock is 7¾, all above that being called extra sizes.
306
LIVERY CHART
A table of the proper servants’ wear for city and country, arranged by vehicles.
Note.—In many cases trousers matching coat may be substituted for boots and breeches; circumstances, principally those concerned with formality, must govern.
Vehicle Men City Country
Beach (or morning) phaeton 1 Dress; trousers Undress; trousers
Booby sleigh 2 Dress or undress Undress or dress
Break 2 Dress or undress; trousers Undress or dress; trousers
Brougham 1 or 2 Dress; boots and breeches
Caleche 2 Dress; boots and breeches
Chaise 1 Dress; boots and breeches or trousers; better form without a servant
Coach 2 Dress; boots and breeches
Cocking cart 1 Dress; boots and breeches or trousers Undress; breeches and leggins
Coupe 1 or 2 Dress; boots and breeches
Curricle 1 Dress; boots and breeches
Cutter 1 Dress or undress Undress or dress
Dog cart 1 Dress; boots and breeches Undress; breeches and leggins
D’Orsay 2 Dress; boots and breeches
Dos-a-dos 1 Dress; boots and breeches Undress; breeches and leggins
Extension top phaeton 1 Dress; trousers Undress; trousers
Game cart 1 Dress; boots and breeches Undress; breeches and leggins
George IV (or lady’s driving phaeton) 1 Dress; boots and breeches
Gig phaeton 1 Dress; boots and breeches
Golf cart 1 Dress; boots and breeches Undress; breeches and leggins
Hansom 1 Dress or undress; may wear a plain black cutaway coat, felt top hat, breeches and leggins, in rainy weather a mackintosh cape Undress or dress; may wear a plain black cutaway coat, felt top hat, breeches and leggins, in rainy weather a machintosh cape
Ladies’ driving phaeton See George IV
Landau 2 Dress; boots and breeches
Landaulet 1 Dress; boots and breeches
Mail phaeton 2 Dress; groom’s livery boots and breeches
Morning phaeton See Beach phaeton
Omnibus 2 Dress; afternoon or evening, boots and breeches; morning trousers Undress; trousers
307Park drag 2 Dress; groom’s livery, boots and breeches
Phaeton 1 Dress; trousers Undress; trousers
Road coach 2 Dress; boots and breeches, or, undress; breeches and leggins
Rockaway 1 Dress; trousers Undress; trousers
Runabout 1 Dress or undress Undress or dress
Skeleton break 2 Undress; breeches and leggins
Spider phaeton 1 Dress; boots and breeches
Stanhope 1 Dress; boots and breeches
Station wagon 1 Undress; trousers
Surrey 1 Dress; trousers Undress; trousers
T cart 1 Dress; boots and breeches
Tandem cart 1 Dress; boots and breeches Undress; breeches and leggins
Tilbury 1 Dress; boots and breeches
Top wagon 1 Undress; trousers or breeches and leggins
Unicorn break 1 Dress; boots and breeches Undress; breeches and leggins
Victoria 1 or 2 Dress; boots and breeches
Vis-a-vis 2 Dress; boots and breeches
Wagonette 1 Dress or undress; trousers Undress or dress; trousers
Whitechapel cart 1 Dress; boots and breeches Undress; breeches and leggins
AUTOMOBILES
Brougham 2 Dress or undress; greatcoats
Ladies’ runabout 1 Undress; trousers Undress; trousers
Runabout 1 Undress; trousers Undress; trousers
Surrey 1 Dress; military coat, trousers Undress; trousers
Touring car 1 or 2 Undress; greatcoats Undress; greatcoats
Victoria 2 Dress; trousers Undress; trousers
Victoria (rear drive) 1 Dress; trousers Undress; trousers
CLOTH MEASURE
This old system is used but little nowadays, having been superseded by long measure and the metric system.
2¼ inches make 1 nail marked na.
4 nails make 1 quarter marked qr.
4 quarters make 1 yard marked yd.
3 quarters make 1 ell Flemish marked E. Fl.
5 quarters make 1 ell English marked E. E.
5 quarters 1 9–10 ins. make 1 ell French marked E. Fr.
5 quarters 1 1–5 ins. make 1 ell Scotch marked E. S.
308
SHOES: THEIR NUMBERING
There are various systems of shoe sizes in use nowadays—designed, perhaps, to deceive those with vanity afflicted who will insist they can wear a smaller size than they can wear—or should wear. So if one asks for 6½A he can depart in peace and comfort wearing 40–1, or 185, or 28–1, or otherwise as the system may be.
Yet for that matter an 8½A by one maker may not be 8½A in some other maker’s shoes, although both use the old numbering system, as many still do.
The best known of the “blind numbering systems” is that known as “French Sizes” and corresponds thus:
Size 1 1½ 2 2½ 3 3½ 4 4½
Written 33 33- 34 34- 35 35- 36 36-
5 5½ 6 6½ 7 7½ 8 8½
37 37- 38 38- 39 39- 40 40-
9 9½ 10 10½ 11 11½ 12 12½
41 41- 42 42- 43 43- 44 44-
13 13½ 14 12 13½
45 45- 46 45 45-
A dash indicates half sizes.
Widths A B C D E EE
Written 0 1 2 3 4 5
In marking, the size is first written, then the width, close together; thus 37–0 means 5½A, 40–1 means 8B, etc.
Another widely used system is more obvious, in that ½ is the decimal .5 without the decimal point, thus:
Size 1 1½ 2 2½ 3 3½ 4 4½ 5
Written 1 15 2 25 3 35 4 45 5
5½ 6 6½ 7 7½ 8 8½ 9 9½
55 6 65 7 75 8 85 9 95
10 10½ 11 11½ 12 12½ 13 13½ 14
10 105 11 115 12 125 13 135 14
Widths A B C D E EE
Written 1 2 3 4 5 6
In marking, the width is written first, so that 1½A is 115, 4½C is 345, etc.
A third system has a valueless figure prefixt thus:
Size 1 1½ 2 2½ 3 3½ 4
Written 21 21- 22 22- 23 23- 24
4½ 5 5½ 6 6½ 7 7½
24- 25 25- 26 26- 27 27-
8 8½ 9 9½ 10 10½ 11
28 28- 29 29- 210 210- 211
11½ 12 12½ 13 13½
211- 212 212- 213 213-
The dash indicating the half sizes.
309
Widths AA A B C D E EE
Written 00 0 1 2 3 4 5
Or
1 2 3 4 5
In marking, the widths are written last, thus 22–0 means 2½A, 281 means 8B or 8A.
A system largely used in marking men’s shoes consists in letting the last figure indicate the width and dividing the first figure or figures by 2 to obtain the size, thus:
Size 1 1½ 2 2½ 3 3½ 4 4½
Written 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
5 5½ 6 6½ 7 7½ 8 8½
10 11 12 12½ 14 15 16 17
9 9½ 10 10½ 11 11½ 12 12½
18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25
Widths A B C D E EE
Written 1 2 3 4 5 6
Thus size 7½A is written 151, size 8B is written 162, and so on.
Another system, and one that is used by the Douglas Shoe Co., has the width written first, and the size next, a third figure being used to indicate whether a whole or half size is meant, thus:
470 means width 4 or (D) size 7
345 means width 3 or (C) size 4½
This system retains the regular size numbers from 1 upward, the whole number being indicated by 0 and a half size by 5 added as the third figure. After size 9½ four figures are used, the two middle ones indicating the size. Widths are designated thus:
Width A B C D E EE W
Written 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Doubtless, like in all things else, woman was at the bottom of the invention of these systems, which were fittingly applied first of all to woman’s shoes, but nowadays they are quite universal. Hence he is a happy man whose shoes fit and who knows it.
Shoe sizes for the various ages are usually divided thus:
Infants’, 3 to 8
Children’s, 8½ to 12
Misses’, 12½ to 2
Ladies’, 2½ to 6
Youths’, 12 to 2
Boys’, 2½ to 6
Men’s, 6 to 14
while widths are clast
A or 1 narrow
B or 2 medium narrow
C or 3 medium
D or 4 wide
E or 5 extra wide
EE or 6, widest usually made
W or 7 exceptionally wide.
310
RELATED HOSIERY AND SHOE SIZES
While it is scarcely advisable to order shoes (by mail, for instance) by the sizes of one’s hose, it is quite practicable, satisfactory and comfortable to order hose by the size of one’s shoes—that is to say by the relation of these sizes to each other, to wit:
Men’s hosiery—
Shoe 5½–6 6½–7 7½–8 8½–9 9½–10 10½–11
Hose 9½ 10 10½ 11 11½ 12
Average weight in cotton, 2½ ounces per pair; wool, 3½ ounces.
Children’s hosiery—
1 Infants’ shoe takes 4 -in. hose
2 and 3 Infants’ shoe takes 4½-in. hose
4 Infants’ shoe takes 5 -in. hose
5 Infants’ shoe takes 5½-in. hose
6 and 7 Children’s shoe takes 6 -in. hose
8 Children’s shoe takes 6½-in. hose
9 and 10 Children’s shoe takes 7 -in. hose
11 Boys’ shoe takes 7½-in. hose
12 Boys’ shoe takes 8 -in. hose
13, 1 and 2 Boys’ shoe takes 8–8½-in. hose
Average weight per pair, cotton, 2 to 4 ounces; per dozen, 20 to 40 ounces; wool, about 50 per cent more.
HOSIERY SIZE MARKS
The little pinhead holes near the ribbed top of a stocking indicate its size. Read them thus:
Mens’ hosiery—
Size 9 *
Size 9½ **
Size 10 ***
Size 10½ ****
Size 11 *****
Size 11½ ****** or ***
***
Infants’ hosiery—
Size 4 *
Size 4½ **
Size 5 ***
Size 5½ ****
Size 6 *****
Size 6½ ****** or ***
***
Boys’ hosiery—
Size 6 *
Size 6½ **
Size 7 ***
Size 7½ ****
Size 8 *****
Size 8½ ****** or ***
***
Size 9 ***
****
Size 9½ ****
****
Size 10 ****
*****
311
SLEEVE LENGTHS (SHIRTS)
As commonly made the following lengths of sleeves are provided for each neck size—a lesser range for colored shirts because of the extra hazard on “novelties” and perhaps because the wearers aren’t so particular as he who must be au fait in spick-and-span white all the time.
Neck Size Sleeve Lengths
White Colored
13½ 30 to 32 31
14 30 to 33 31 to 33
14½ 30 to 34 31 to 33
15 30 to 35 31 to 33
15½ 30 to 35 32 to 34
16 30 to 33 32 to 34
16½ 30 to 34 32 and 33
17 30 to 34 32 and 33
17½ 31 to 34 32 and 33
18 31 to 34 32 and 33
Attacht cuffs add 2 inches.
BOYS’ AND CHILDREN’S UNION SUITS
The corresponding sizes for ages are as follows:
Size Length Ages
2 29 in. 3 to 4
3 32 in. 5 to 6
4 36 in. 7 to 8
5 40 in. 9 to 10
6 44 in. 11 to 12
7 48 in. 13 to 14
If large for his age, take next size larger, or the following:
Sizes Ages
24 breast measure 6 years
28 breast measure 7 to 9 years
32 breast measure 10 to 12 years
34 breast measure 13 years
312
CHILDREN’S UNDERWEAR SIZES
If your children are large for their age, purchase at least one size larger than the average as given in the scale of sizes.
Age Shirts Pantalets
1 year Size 16 Size 16
1 to 1½ years Size 18 Size 16
1½ to 2 years Size 20 Size 18
2 to 4 years Size 22 Size 20
4 to 6 years Size 24 Size 22
6 to 8 years Size 26 Size 24
8 to 10 years Size 28 Size 26
10 to 12 years Size 30 Size 28
12 to 13 years Size 32 Size 30
13 to 14 years Size 34 Size 32
14 to 15 years Size 34 Size 34
None of the goods under this heading are intended for large boys. Boys’ drawers and shirts come in sizes 24 to 34 only.
CHILDREN’S GLOVE SIZES (AVERAGES)
Size 00 for children of 2 to 3 years.
Size 0 for children of 3 to 5 years.
Size 1 for children of 4 to 6 years.
Size 2 for children of 5 to 8 years.
Size 3 for boys of 6 to 9 years.
Size 4 for boys of 8 to 11 years.
Size 5 for boys of 10 to 13 years.
Size 6 for boys of 11 to 14 years.
SILK RIBBON WIDTHS
In this table is given the usual width of silk ribbons according to their respectiv numbers:
Number Lines Inches
1 2½ 3–16
1½ 4 5–16¼
2 5 7–16
3 6½ 9–16⅝
4 8 11–16¾
5 10 15–16–1
7 13 1⅛–1¼
9 17–18 1½–1⅝
12 21–22 1⅝–2
16 25 2⅜
22 30 2⅝
40 38 (?) 3½
313
MEN’S WEAR CLOTH WEIGHTS
Cloths and all textil fabrics are standardized on the basis of the weight of a yard in ounces. The approximate weights given below are for double-width goods—54 inches; but as double-width varies from 48 to 60 inches the term itself is, once in a while, misleading. However, if the “double-width” is unusually narrow or unusually wide it is generally so stated in exact figures, both as to width and weight. The weights of cloth commonly used for men’s clothing in this country are:
Suitings Overcoatings
Winter 16 to 20 ounces 24 to 30 ounces
Spring 11 to 15 ounces 16 to 22 ounces
Summer 10 to 14 ounces
Summer “Tropical” 9 to 11 ounces
Fall 12 to 16 ounces 16 to 24 ounces
TAILORS’ BUTTON SIZES
The range of sizes commonly used on the various garments is:
Ulsters—front 45 lines; sleeves and throat 30 to 33 lines. Overcoats—fronts 36 to 40 lines; sleeves 24 to 30 lines. Coats—front 30 to 33 lines; sleeves 20 to 24 lines. Vests—24 to 30 lines. Trousers—waist 27 lines; fly 22 lines.
SILK THREAD TABLE
This table shows the numbers of silk thread, with the corresponding number of yards per pound and per ounce:
No. Yards Per Pound Yards Per Ounce
000 32,000 2,000
00 25,600 1,600
0 20,800 1,300
A 16,000 1,000
B 13,600 850
C 10,400 650
D 8,800 550
E 6,400 400
EE 5,280 330
F 4,192 262
FF 3,392 212
G 2,000 125
314
TAILORS’ SILK THREAD SIZES
The sizes of silk thread and twist most widely used for best results in the making of men’s clothing are:
Machine Twist Buttonhole Twist Sewings
Coat 00 or 0 12–16–18 A-00-D
Vest 00 or 0 12–16–18 00 and A
Trousers A or B 12 and 14 B and D
HOW TO MEASURE FOR A WIG
Maybe you can get a good “fit” by self-measurement and ordering by mail. Try it.
1st Measure—The circumference of the head, from forehead around over the ears to base of skull. 2nd Measure—From forehead back over the top of the head to nape of neck. 3rd Measure—From ear to ear, across the forehead. 4th Measure—From ear to ear, over the top of the head. 5th Measure—From temple to temple, around the back of the head,] (horizontally). These measurements in inches.
To order a toupee, cut a piece of paper the exact size and shape of the bald spot and also give measurement around the head (No. 1) and state on which side the hair is parted.
METRIC MEASURES
The unit of length measurement in the metric system is the meter, which is supposed to be one ten-millionth part of the earth’s meridian quadrant, or 39.370 inches.
The unit of surface is the are, or 100 square meters. The unit of volume is the stere, which is a cubic meter. The unit of volume is the liter, or the volume of 1 kilogram of distilled water at its maximum density, or the equivalent, one cubic decimeter.
Prefixes to the words meter, are, stere, and liter, etc., indicate multiples or fractions thereof, thus:
1 myriameter 5.4 nautical miles, or 6.21 statute miles.
1 kilometer 0.621 statute mile.
1 hectometer 109.4 yards.
1 decameter 0.497 chain, or 1,988 rods.
1 meter 39.37 inches, or nearly 3 feet, 3⅜ inches.
1 decimeter 3.937 inches.
1 centimeter 0.3937 inch.
1 millimeter 0.03937 inch.
1 micron ¹⁄₂₅₄₀₀ inch.
3151 hectare 2.471 acres.
1 are 119.6 square yards.
1 centiara 10.764 square feet.
1 decastere 13 cubic yards.
1 stere 1.307 cubic yards.
1 decistere 3½ cubic feet.
1 kiloliter 1 ton, 14 gallons, 2 pints, 2 gills, old wine measure.
1 hectoliter 26.4 gallons.
1 decaliter 2 gallons, 2 quarts, 1 pint, ½ gill.
1 liter 1 quart, ½ gill.
1 deciliter 0.845 gill.
1 millier 1 ton avoirdupois less 35 pounds.
1 metric quintal 2 hundredweight less 3½ pounds, or 220 pounds 7 ounces.
1 kilogram 2 pounds, 3 ounces, 4⅜ drams avoirdupois.
1 decagram 154.32 grains troy.
1 gram 15.43234874 grains.
1 decigram 154.32 grains.
1 centigram 0.15432 grain.
1 milligram 0.015432 grain.
BRITISH PEERS’ ROBES AND CORONETS
These heritages of a glorious feudal past are tenaciously cherished with all their privileges, but needless to say, are worn only upon high ceremonial occasions.
There have been some few changes thruout the ages which this condenst book for busy Americans cannot spare space to describe. At the coronation of King Edward an edict informed those immediately concerned that “the robe or mantle of the Peers be of crimson velvet edged with miniver, the cape furred with miniver pure, and powdered with bars or rows of ermine according to their degrees, viz.:
Barons—Two rows.
Viscounts—Two rows and a half.
Earls—Three rows.
Marquesses—Three rows and a half.
Dukes—Four rows.”
The said mantles or robes to be worn over the full Court dress, uniforms or regimentals.
“Their coronets to be of silver-gilt, the caps of crimson velvet turned up with ermine, with a gold tassel on the top and no jewels or precious stones are to be set or used in the coronets or counterfeit pearls instead of silver balls.
“The coronet of a Baron to have on the circle or rim six silver bells at equal distances.
“The coronet of a Viscount to have on the circle sixteen silver balls.
“The coronet of an Earl to have on the circle four gold strawberry leaves and four silver leaves alternately, the latter a little raised or pointed above the rim.
“The coronet of a Duke to have on the circle eight gold strawberry leaves.”
316
UNIFORMS OF FAMOUS INDEPENDENT MILITARY ORGANIZATIONS
A knowledge of the uniforms of the few remaining “ancient and honorable” military organizations, dating back to the early days of the country may be very useful to shopkeepers on occasions such as visits, celebrations, etc., and, in a broader way, to any student of costume or anyone having a professional, business or transient interest in the subject.
The information following was supplied in every case by some member of the companies listed, usually by the commanding officer. Unfortunately, the list is not quite complete, as several promises to furnish descriptiv matter at a later date were apparently forgotten, and a few, tho repeatedly and courteously requested to do so, gave the matter no attention. Nevertheless, this is a representativ and measurably useful list.
It must be remembered, however, that in keeping with the condenst character of the Dictionary, descriptions are necessarily quite brief. If more precise information is required by any reader, it may be had, doubtless, by addressing the commanding officer of the company.
Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company of Massachusetts, Boston, Mass. Organized 1638. Each company of this organization retains the uniform adopted at the time of its organization, the original company wearing the quaint buff-leather jerkins, flat hats and other characteristic accessories of that time; the companies organized at the time of the war for independence wearing the historic buff and blue so well known to every school boy; those of the time of the late rebellion wearing the characteristic civil war uniforms; while companies formed later wear more modern equipment.
Charleston Light Dragoons, Charleston, S. C. Organized 1733 (the oldest cavalry and the second oldest military organization in the U. S.). Now wearing the regulation U. S. uniform. Former uniform: a full dress coat of dark green cloth, buttoned to the throat, trimmed with seven rows of yellow braid across front connecting three rows of buttons, standing collar trimmed with yellow braid, yellow shoulder knots; green trousers with yellow stripes; black boots; helmet of black leather with heavy brass ridge trimmings, horsehair pendant, brass visor, brass chin scale and brass crest.
Charlestown Artillery, Boston, Mass. Organized 1786. For many years has worn only the regular uniform of the U. S. army and has no longer a private uniform.
317Chatham Artillery, Savannah, Ga. Organized 1786. The regular uniform that of the U. S. army. The dress uniform consists of: a half-frock artillery coat of gray cloth, single-breasted with a row of nine Georgia buttons in front, standing collar of scarlet cloth edged with gold lace, cuffs of scarlet cloth edged with gold lace; trousers of blue cassimere cloth with stripes of scarlet cloth on outer seams edged with gold lace; cap of scarlet cloth with gray cloth field on top and with gold band and insignia; gold shoulder knots with scarlet ground and silver insignia; belt of gold and scarlet; the same uniform for non-commissioned officers and privates, except the cuffs of coat edged with scarlet mohair braid instead of gold, the trousers with narrower stripes, the shoulder knots of scarlet mohair braid with gray ground, and the cap with scarlet field and scarlet band. The service uniform consists of a dark blue flannel shirt, dark gray jeans trousers, U. S. army campaign hat, brown duck army leggins.
Columbus Riflemen, Columbus, Miss. Organized 1837. Present uniform that of the National Guard. In years past the company has various uniforms, the most notable and expensiv being a gray cutaway coat with a double row of buttons across the front fastened with gold bands across the breast; gold epaulets and white helmet.
Duquesne Grays, Pittsburgh, Pa. Organized 1831. A dress uniform of gray cloth, consisting of a full dress coat piped with white, with three rows of bell buttons on the breast, white epaulets, white cross belts and white waistbelt; a broad white stripe on the outerseams of the trousers; bearskin shako; in general resembling that of West Point and the Cleveland Grays. The undress uniform consists of a gray blouse with one row of buttons, gray trousers with white stripes, and a regulation gray cap with insignia.
First Company Governor’s Foot Guard, Hartford, Conn. Organized 1771. Dress uniform consists of single-breasted cutaway frock coat of scarlet cloth with standing collar, a shaped plastron of black cloth on front trimmed with eight rows of silver braid and edged with same, standing collar and cuffs of black trimmed to match, skirts lined with buff cloth; waistcoat and breeches of buff cloth; black leggings; black fur cap with red-tipt pompon and red tassel on sides and gilt blazon in front; white cross belts.
First Company Governor’s Horse Guard, Hartford, Conn. Organized 1778. The dress uniform consists of a hussar’s jacket of navy blue cloth with cross rows of black braid in front, fastening 318with olives, black braid up the back seams to the shoulders; gold shoulder knots; gold breast belt over left shoulder with dispatch box attacht behind, gold aigulets; black astrakhan busby cap with yellow broadcloth top draping over the right side with hussar plume and insignia of troop.
First Light Infantry, Providence, R. I. Organized 1818. The dress uniform consists of a scarlet swallowtail coat with standing collar; coat trimmed with white and gold; white epaulets trimmed with red; light blue trousers of cloth woven especially for the regiment, with stripes of white broadcloth piped with red, except for officers who wear gold stripes with red piping; a bearskin hat about 18 in. high with black leather chin strap and gold wire tassel in front. Equipment: a black leather waistbelt with plain brass buckle; bayonet scabbard of black leather with brass trimmings; a white cross belt with cartridge box of colonial style attacht; in general resembling the uniforms of the Old Guard of the City of New York, the Governor’s Foot Guards of Hartford, Conn., and the Washington (D. C.) Light Infantry. The dress uniform conforms to U. S. army regulations.
First Troop Philadelphia City Cavalry, Philadelphia, Pa. Organized 1774. Officers mounted full dress uniform: single-breasted jacket of dark blue cloth with three rows of metal ball buttons, standing collar of scarlet cloth extending down center of back 3½ in. to point, narrow silver braiding on back, breast, collar, pocket, sleeves and skirt; tight-fitting ankle breeches of white stockinet; helmet: body with vizor and cape of black japanned leather, body 6½ in. high with metal band, vizor metal bound and metal crest, side leaves, rosets and chin scales, a jet black grenier with fine short hair; epaulets of silver wire lace; sabretache of black morocco; baldric of scarlet silk and silver lace, lined with red leather; gauntlets of white leather; jack boots of black leather with front reaching above knees when seated; and other details, insignia, etc., as per regulations. The same uniform with slight modifications for non-commissioned officers and privates. Dismounted, wear trousers in place of breeches. Mess uniform: single-breasted jacket of dark blue cloth, open in front, with standing collar trimmed with silver braid looping across and fastening in front, pointed cuffs trimmed with silver braid; white linen waistcoat closed to neck, with nickelplated buttons, silver shoulder cords. For men, a similar uniform with slight modifications.
Georgia Hussars, Savannah, Ga. Organized 1737. Present uniform that of the National Guard. The historical uniform, adopted in 1819, was an adaptation of the uniform of the Austrian army, 319the coat being a single-breasted Hussar jacket, with five rows of buttons arranged shield shape on the front.
Infantry Battalion State Fencibles, Philadelphia, Pa. Organized 1813. Dress uniform: coatee of scarlet cloth with standing collar, trimmed across breast with seven rows white and gold braid, deep gold breast cord, cuffs of white cloth with ornamental gold braiding, epaulets of gold lace; black trousers with white stripes; bearskin shako, with gold tassel, except for staff officers, who wear blue felt helmets with long white horse hair plumes. Same uniform for privates except that epaulets are of cotton cord instead of gold lace. Also the regulation olive-drab service uniform.
Kentish Guards, East Greenwich, R. I. Organized 1774. A single-breasted coatee of dark blue cloth, closed to throat with nine brass buttons, the collar of white cloth trimmed with flat gold braid, the coat trimmed with white and gold braid; trousers of sky-blue cloth with white stripe on outer seams 1¼ in. wide for officers and ¾ in. wide for non-commissioned officers and privates. Except for insignia of rank and trousers stripes the uniform is the same for all officers and men. Insignia same as U. S. army full dress.
Lafayette Artillery Company, South Lyndeboro, N. H. Organized 1804. Now wears the present dress uniform of the regular artillery of the U. S. army, with the exceptions as follows: the caps are the older straight caps instead of the present bell crown; the officers wear the same uniforms as the men with the exception of the stripes and shoulder straps; officers wear gilt stripes, but non-commissioned officers wear the regulation red stripe and chevrons. One of the historic uniforms of the company, adopted in 1833 or earlier, consisted of “a Bonaparte cap with a black “ploom”, the coat blue and trimmed with yellow ball buttons and yellow worsted cord; with white pantaloons, with black “gaters” in pickets and black stocks, yellow belts for the sword with a belt over the shoulder, and boots”.
Macon Volunteers, Macon, Ga. Organized 1825. Now Co. B., 2nd Regt. Infantry, National Guard of Georgia and wearing the regular army uniform.
Mobile Rifle Company, Mobile, Ala. Organized 1836. Frock coat and trousers of olive-green cloth, the coat for men trimmed with a row of brass buttons on either side of breast, white epaulets and wide white webbing over the shoulders, meeting at center of breast and fastened with a large brass buckle; for officers, 320with rows of gold braid across breast instead of the brass buttons, and gold shoulder knots. Trousers with gold stripes at the sides. A high olive-green cap with gold trimmings and white plume.
Montgomery True Blues, Montgomery, Ala. Organized 1836. Dress uniform consists of a coatee of dark blue cloth, for officers, with seven rows of gold braid across breast, gold standing collar with center of red, gold epaulets with red center; enlisted men wearing white cross belts instead of gold braid across breast and gold epaulets with red fringe; white waist belts; trousers of light blue cloth with gold stripes with red center; black shakos with two gold tassels.
National Lancers, Boston, Mass. Organized 1836. Dress uniform: a double-breasted dress coat of scarlet cloth with two rows of nine buttons on breast, skirts faced back and front with military blue cloth and lined with scarlet cloth, standing collar, the coat trimmed rather elaborately with gold braid; trousers for officers, of dark blue cloth with gold stripe for full dress, and of sky-blue cloth with yellow cloth stripe for undress, and for troopers of sky-blue cloth with yellow cord stripe; riding breeches of same material and style; helmet of blue felt, lancers pattern, with black enamel leather square top with brass bound corners, brass scalechin strap, gold helmet cord extending to neck and beneath right shoulder passing under the arm, plume of white swans feathers; epaulets of scarlet cloth for troopers, shoulder knots of gold braid for officers; belt and saber straps of white enamel leather, officers wearing regulation army gold-embroidered dress belt; cape of dark blue kersey lined with yellow, officers wearing army officer’s cape. Fatigue uniform: a close-fitting blouse of dark blue cloth fastened with nine buttons, four outside bellows pockets with flaps; cap, same as U. S. army.
New Haven Grays, New Haven, Conn. Organized 1816. The dress uniform of iron-gray cloth, consisting of a coatee with nine rows of braid across the front and three rows of buttons, standing collar, fringed epaulets, white waist belt and white cross belts, tall stiff felt cap with pompon, insignia, etc.; trousers to match with two braid stripes; in general resembling the West Point uniform.
Old Guard of the City of New York, New York, N. Y. Organized 1826. Dress uniform: double-breasted coat of white cloth with ten buttons on a side, embroidered collar of mazarin blue cloth; mazarin blue cuffs, edged with scarlet cloth and trimmed with gold braid; skirts turned up front and back with mazarin blue cloth edged with scarlet and trimmed with gold braid; trousers of mazarin blue cloth with scarlet stripes and gold braiding 321along outer seams; bearskin grenadier hat 15 in. high and 36 in. around at top, with two gold tassels and metallic chin strap; or a dress cap of dark blue cloth, circular pattern, without visor, with patent leather chin strap, gold embroidery on red field in front, for wear with white coat on occasions of ceremony. Overcoat of heavy dark blue beaver, double-breasted surtout style, with collar, cuffs and side edges of scarlet cloth edged with white cord. Fatigue uniform: a single-breasted sack coat of dark blue cloth, closed with flap with concealed fastenings, standing collar, trimmed along edges, seams, etc., with flat black mohair braid; fatigue cap of regulation pattern with black silk cord. Officers’ dress same as for privates except hat and cap cords are of gilt; epaulets of fine bullion, plain straps. Shoulder knots of gold wire cord on scarlet cloth. Other details as per regulations.
Republican Rifles, Savannah, Ga. Organized 1808. No longer uses the old uniforms of the corps, but is uniformed and equipt under the National Guard of Georgia.
Salem Light Infantry, Salem, Mass. Organized 1805. No private uniform at the present time, wearing that of the National Guard.
Second Battery, F. A. N. G., N. Y., New York, N. Y. Organized 1833. Equipt and uniformed exactly as a Field Battery of the U. S. army.
Second Company Governor’s Foot Guard, New Haven, Conn. Organized 1775. Dress uniform consists of scarlet frock coat, single-breasted, cutaway sharply just below the middle of the chest, the front with a plastron of light blue cloth, square at the top, and extending in a narrow edging all along the skirts, trimmed along its edges with silver braid, and laid across the breast with rows of silver braid, cuffs and standing collar of blue cloth with silver trimming to match, also a similar treatment on the skirts over the hips; waistcoat and breeches of white cloth; black velvet leggings; bearskin shako with silver tassel; white gloves; white cross belts, black waist belt.
Second Corps of Cadets, Salem, Mass. Organized 1785. In its career the corps has had some sixteen or more uniforms, all of which it wears on certain occasions, as anniversary celebrations, etc. With the exception of the uniform worn during the civil war, all the coats were red, with black, blue or light blue trousers. The present uniform consists of a red coat with blue facings (collar, cuffs, belt, tabs, shoulder straps, side edges, etc.) with white edges; trousers of dark blue cloth with white stripes; waist belt and cross belt of black enamel leather; French shako cap of beaver with red and blue pompon; gold chevrons; other details as prescribed.
322Seventh Regiment, N. G., S. N. Y., New York, N. Y. Organized 1806. Full dress coat: of cadet gray cloth, single-breasted with standing collar, the skirts lined with black cloth and turned up both back and front, fronts of the coat trimmed with three rows of N. G. buttons connected across with black mohair braid in double rows. Dress coat, officers: of dark blue cloth with standing collar; for enlisted men: a blouse of cadet gray cloth with standing collar and cuffs of black cloth. Trousers of gray cadet cloth with black stripes; in summer of white duck. Full dress hat: a shako of black felt or beaver 4½ in. high in front and 7½ in. high behind, with white worsted pompon and with ornaments, etc., as prescribed. Fatigue cap for men: of gray cloth, with black band, etc.; for officers, of dark blue cloth. Field service uniform, of olive-drab cloth, same as U. S. army.
Strafford Guards, Dover, N. H. Organized 1822. Now wearing regulation U. S. uniform, being “Co. A, Second Infantry, N. H. N. G.”
Washington Artillery, New Orleans, La. Organized 1840. Present uniform conforms to that of U. S. army. The uniform of 1840 consisted of a single-breasted coatee of deep blue cloth with red standing collar and red cuffs; light blue trousers with red stripes; gold epaulets for officers and red for men; gold waist belt for officers and white cross belts for men; tall white shako caps with red pompon. The uniform of 1861 retained the same colors for coat and trousers but the coat was a single-breasted sack, buttoned to the neck, with standing collar; red caps of the forward slant type; gold epaulets for officers and gold shoulder knots for men; gold waist belt for officers and white waist belt and white cross belt for men. The uniform of 1875 was entirely of gray cloth, the coat being a double-breasted frock with standing collar, two rows of gilt buttons on the breast and edgings of red cloth; red trousers stripes; officers wore gilt waist belt and men white; officers wore gold-and-red shoulder knots and men red-and-white; caps of black felt, French shako pattern, with red plumes. The uniform of 1883 reverted to the two blues of earlier days, somewhat resembling in style those of 1840, excepting chiefly that the coat had three rows of gilt buttons on the chest, the men wearing red epaulets and officers gold-and-red shoulder knots, the men wearing a white waist belt only and the officers gilt; the headdress was a white helmet with gilt trimmings and red plume for officers and with gilt chin straps and gilt spike for men.
323
COLLEGE COLORS
Modern merchants play-up to the collegians, making artful use of the colors and emblems as occasion affords. Wherefore the usefulness of this list.
(P. S.—Don’t object to the few women’s colleges included—the information may be useful in an emergency.
Adelphi College Brown and Gold.
Alabama Polytechnic Institute Orange and Blue.
Albion College Pink and Green.
Alfred University Royal Purple and Old Gold.
Amherst College Purple and White.
Armour Institute of Technology Yellow and Black.
Atlanta University Steel Gray and Crimson.
Baker University Burnt Orange.
Baldwin University Old Gold and Brown.
Barnard College Light Blue and White.
Bates College Garnet.
Baylor University Green and Gold.
Bethany College, Kansas Yellow and Blue.
Boston University Scarlet and White.
Bowdoin College White.
Brigham Young College Crimson.
Brown University Brown and White.
Bryn Mawr College Yellow and White.
Bucknell University Orange and Blue.
Butler College Blue and White.
Carlisle Indian School Red and Old Gold.
Case School of Applied Science Brown and White.
Catholic University of America Gold and White; Maroon and Black for athletics.
Central University, (Kentucky) Cardinal and Blue.
Claflin University Orange and Maroon.
Clark College Scarlet and White.
Clark University Emerald Green and White.
Clemson Agricultural College Purple and Orange.
College of the City of New York Lavender.
Colorado College Black and Gold.
Columbia University Light Blue and White.
Cornell College, (Iowa) Royal Purple and White.
Cornell University Carnelian and White.
Creighton University Blue and White.
Culver Military Academy Maroon and White.
Cumberland University Maroon and White.
Dakota University Blue and White.
Dartmouth College Green.
Delaware College Old Gold and Blue.
Denison University Denison Red.
Denver University Red and Gold.
De Pauw University Old Gold.
Dickinson College Red and White.
Drake University Blue and White.
Drury College Scarlet and Gray.
Earlham College Yellow and Cream.
Fisk University Blue and Yellow.
Fort Worth University Blue and Gold.
Franklin and Marshall College Blue and White.
Franklin College, (Indiana) Navy Blue and Old Gold.
Georgetown University, (D. C.) Blue and Gray.
George Washington University Buff and Blue.
324Girard College Steel and Garnet.
Grant University Gold and Blue.
Grove City College Crimson.
Hamilton College Rose Pink.
Hampton Institute Blue and White.
Harvard University Crimson.
Heidelberg University Black, Orange and Red.
Hillsdale College Ultra-Marine (Blue).
Hiram College Sky Blue and Cherry Red.
Hobart College Yellow and Purple.
Holy Cross College Purple and White.
Howard University Dark Blue and White.
Illinois Wesleyan University Green and White.
Indiana University Crimson and Cream.
Iowa College Scarlet and Black.
Iowa State College Cardinal and Gold.
Iowa Wesleyan University White and Purple.
Jacob Tome Institute Blue and White.
John B. Stetson University Green and White.
John Hopkins University Black and Old Gold.
Kansas City University Crimson and Orange.
Kansas Wesleyan University Purple and Old Gold.
Kentucky University Crimson.
Knox College Purple and Old Gold.
Lafayette College, (Pennsylvania) Maroon and White.
Lake Forest University Red and Black.
Lawrence University White and Yale Blue.
Lebanon Valley College. Blue and White.
Lehigh University Brown and White.
Leland University Blue.
Leland Stanford, Jr., University Cardinal.
Manhattan College Green and White.
Marietta College Navy Blue and White.
Maryville College Orange and Garnet.
Massachusetts Institute of Technology Cardinal Red and Silver Gray.
Mercer University Orange and Black.
Miami University Crimson and White.
Michigan Agricultural College Olive Green.
Mississippi Agri. and Mech. College Maroon and White.
Morris Brown College Royal Purple and Black.
Mount Holyoke College Light Blue.
Mount Union College Royal Purple.
Nebraska Wesleyan University Yellow and Brown.
Nevada State University Royal Blue and White.
New York University Violet.
Normal College Lavender and White.
Northwestern University, (Illinois) Royal Purple.
Oberlin College Crimson and Gold.
Ohio Northern University Orange and Black.
Ohio State University Scarlet and Gray.
Ohio University Olive Green and White.
Ohio Wesleyan University Red and Black.
Oregon Agricultural College Orange.
Ottawa University Sunflower Yellow.
Otterbein University Cardinal and Tan.
Polytechnic Institute, (Brooklyn) Blue and Gray.
Pratt Institute, (Brooklyn) Cadmium Yellow.
Princeton University Orange and Black.
Purdue University Old Gold and Black.
Radcliffe College Red and White.
Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute Cherry and Cream.
325Rutgers College Scarlet.
Shaw University Garnet and White.
Simmons College Blue and Gold.
Simpson College Red and Old Gold.
Smith College White.
Southwest Kansas College Royal Purple.
State College of Kentucky Blue and White.
State College of Washington Crimson and Gray.
State University of Iowa Old Gold.
State University of North Dakota Pink and Green.
Stevens Institute of Technology Silver Gray and Cardinal.
St. Francis Xavier College Maroon and Blue.
St. John’s College, (N. Y.) Maroon.
St Lawrence University Scarlet and Brown.
St. Louis University Blue and White.
St. Olaf College Old Gold.
Syracuse University Orange.
Talladega College Cardinal and Blue.
Teachers’ College, (New York City) Blue and White.
Temple College Cherry and White.
Texas Christian College Royal Purple and White.
Throop Polytechnic Institute Orange and White.
Trinity College, (Connecticut) Old Gold and Blue.
Trinity College, (North Carolina) Navy Blue.
Tufts College Brown and Blue.
Tuskegee Institute Crimson and Old Gold.
University of Alabama Crimson and White.
University of Arkansas Cardinal.
University of California Blue and Gold.
University of Chicago Maroon.
University of Cincinnati Red and Black.
University of Colorado Silver and Gold.
University of Denver Crimson and Gold.
University of Georgia Red and Black.
University of Idaho Silver and Gold.
University of Illinois Orange and Blue.
University of Kansas Crimson and Blue.
University of Kentucky Blue and White.
University of Maine Light Blue.
University of Michigan Maize and Blue.
University of Minnesota Old Gold and Maroon.
University of Missouri Black and Old Gold.
University of Montana Copper, Gold, and Silver.
University of Nashville Garnet and Blue.
University of Nebraska Scarlet and Cream.
University of North Carolina White and Blue.
University of Notre Dame Old Gold and Marine Blue.
University of Oregon Oregon Grape, Green, and Yellow.
University of Pennsylvania Red and Blue.
University of Rochester Yellow.
University of South Dakota Vermilion.
University of Southern California Cardinal and Gold.
University of the South Purple and Old Gold.
University of Tennessee Orange and White.
University of Texas White and Gold.
University of Utah Crimson and Silver.
University of Vermont Green and Gold.
University of Virginia Orange and Dark Blue.
University of Washington Purple and Gold.
University of Wisconsin Cardinal.
University of Wooster Black and Old Gold.
326University School, (Ohio) Maroon and Black.
United States Military Academy Black, Gold and Gray.
United States Naval Academy Blue and Gold.
Upper Iowa University Peacock Blue.
Utah Agricultural College White and Blue.
Vanderbilt University Black and Gold.
Vassar College Rose and Gray.
Virginia Polytechnic Institute Orange and Maroon.
Walden University Black and Red.
Washburn College Electric Blue.
Washington and Jefferson College Red and Black.
Washington and Lee University Blue and White.
Washington University, (Missouri) Myrtle and Maroon.
Wellesley College Deep Blue.
Wesleyan University Cardinal and Black
Western Reserve University Crimson and White.
Western University of Pennsylvania Old Gold and Navy Blue.
West Virginia University Old Gold and Blue.
Wiley University Royal Purple and White.
William and Mary College Orange and White.
Williamette University Cardinal and Old Gold.
Williams College Royal Purple.
Woman’s College of Baltimore Dark Blue and Old Gold.
Worcester Polytechnic Institute Crimson and Steel Gray.
Yale University Blue.
MANDARINS’ BUTTONS
In China the rank or dignity of the mandarin is indicated by a button in the top of the cap. There are nine classes, each of two degrees, and they are differentiated thus:
Class Degree
Red A ruby or other precious stone 1st 1st
Coral 1st 2nd
A red jewel of inferior quality 2nd 1st
Coral carved in the form of a flower 2nd 2nd
Blue A light blue precious stone 3rd 1st
The same only smaller 3rd 2nd
A dark blue precious stone 4th 1st
The same only smaller 4th 2nd
White Crystal 5th 1st
The same only smaller 5th 2nd
A white precious stone 6th 1st
The same only smaller 6th 2nd
Gold Gold 7th 1st
Smaller 7th 2nd
Smaller 8th 1st
Smaller 8th 2nd
Gold buttons are also worn by the ninth or lowest order—but which, nevertheless, is a great deal above the common classes.
Works by Mr. Baker
A Dictionary of Men’s Wear
(This present book) Cloth $2.50, Half Morocco $3.50
A Dictionary of Engraving
A handy manual for those who buy or print pictures and printing plates made by the modern processes. Small, handy volume, uncut, illustrated, decorated boards, 75c
A Dictionary of Advertising
In preparation
A DICTIONARY
of ENGRAVING
By William Henry Baker
![[Logo]](/illustrations/eafd58a774307993.jpg)
An unique reference book for advertising men (both genders) who, paradoxically, are often somewhat at sea in discussing the processes of engraving; electrotyping and the related graphic arts.
Designed as a popular rather than a pedantic book—so here and there thruout it are to be found touches of “human interest” such as unconventional definitions of non-technical terms, rank candor and some cynicism, which may bite or amuse. Technical terms, however, are not monkeyed with.
Printed with some taste on laid antique paper, untrimmed, with illustrations and diagrams, bound in decorated boards, handy volume size.
“Exceedingly helpful.”—Printer’s Ink
“Even the non-professional reader will profit by having it on a convenient shelf.”—Cleveland Leader
“Remarkable for brevity and directness.”—Cleveland Press
“We have an idea it was born of the travail of spirit endured by the author (an advertising manager of wide experience) in dealing with the great crowd of craftsmen who have not overtenderly guided his copy through art department, engraver’s room, composing room, stereotyping department and pressroom.”—Detroit Times
“Very practical and indeed interesting.”—American Printer
“Has a value which can hardly be estimated.”—The Franklin Company, Chicago
“Should find a place in the library and workshop of every man whose business comes within the scope of its treatment.”—Louisville Evening Post
“A complete and thoroughly prepared work, meaty, useful and witty as well.”—N. Y. Daily Trade Record
“The most interesting volume to the allied trades since Lockwoods ‘American Dictionary of Printing and Bookmaking’”—Tony Rubovits, Chicago
“Compliment you upon its completeness and reliability.”—The H. S. Ormsbee Engraving Co., Syracuse
“Certainly interesting to anyone interested in printing.”—Dill & Collins Co., Philadelphia
Price, 75 cents, postpaid. Edition limited
PUBLISHT BY
WILLIAM HENRY BAKER
CLEVELAND, OHIO
TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES
Page Changed from Changed to
30 back to front of arm acye at level thereof under the arm back to front of arm scye at level thereof under the arm
56 Chloroform—CHCl2; a good agent for the removal of grease Chloroform—CHCl_(3); a good agent for the removal of grease
315 1 stere .307 cubic yards. 1 stere 1.307 cubic yards.
Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained.
Used numbers for footnotes.