Dictionary (continued 3)

Field coat—(marine corps) for major general commandant and all other officers, of khaki serge or drill, of the same design as the white undress c. (qv) except without vent for sword, and with bronze buttons; rank devices as for white c.; for non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, a single-breasted c. of 8 oz. khaki-colored cotton material, cut half close, with standing collar, in length reaching to the crotch and closed with 5 marine corps buttons, one outside bellows-plait patch pocket, with flap in each breast, other trimmings, details, etc., as prescribed.

Field dress—(marine corps) worn by all officers and men (1) in garrison when prescribed by the commanding officer, or in the 99tropics; (2) for duty under arms in garrison under foregoing conditions; (3) at drills, target practice, maneuvers, and on marches when prescribed; (4) in the field when prescribed; (5) when serving with marine battalions afloat in the warm season or in the tropics, when prescribed. Consists of, for all officers: f. coat, f. trousers or breeches, russet leather puttees or leggings, f. hat and cord or white helmet, sword with undress belt (leather slings) and knot, russet shoes; if mounted, spurs and drab leather gloves; in the field, the flannel shirt prescribed for enlisted men may be worn, in place of the f. coat, with rank devices on the collar and with khaki scarf. For enlisted men: (in this case called f. uniform): f. coat, f. trousers, leggings, f. hat, russet shoes, arms and accouterments as ordered; in the field, the khaki shirt may be worn, in place of the khaki coat, with a web belt.

Field hat—(marine corps)for non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, of felt, as sample in Quartermaster’s office; worn creased from front to rear; ornaments, etc., of bronze, in front; for all officers, of felt, the same as for enlisted men, creased from front to rear, with a double cord of scarlet-and-gold with acorns at ends; bronze corps device in front.

Field stock—same as stock or neck s.

Field trousers—(marine corps)for major general commandant and all other officers, of same material as f. coat, without stripe, welt or cord; may be worn without leggings in camp or garrison; for non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates of same material as coat and same pattern as white linen undress t.

Field uniform—see F. dress.

Fielder’s glove—a heavily padded, stout leather g., with a web (connected) thumb, worn by baseball players.

Fielder’s mitt—about same as basemen’s m. (qv).

Fifth avenue—a street in New York city supposed to house the elite and elect of tailordom in America; also specially mentioned for its Sunday dress parades of the “smart set”, and particularly that of Easterday. A name also prominently figuring on the window price tickets of misfit shops.

Fig leaf—a primitiv and scanty form of makeshift garment invented by Adam and Eve, the first garment makers of history, sufficiently described by its name; now obsolete to the relief of the W. C. T. U., Y. M. C. A., et al.

Fighting gloves—see Boxing g.

Fil au Chinois—name given to a well-known ball linen thread made in France, waxt ready for use and of extra strength, for tailors, shoemakers, dressmakers, leather-workers, etc.

Fil au Tonkinois—a stout sewing thread similar to fil au Chinois.

100Fil guipe—a rolled or covered thread or cord of silk and tinsel, usually with cotton center, used in manufacture of trimming laces, etc.

Filature—the delicate untwisted silk threads as reeled from the cocoons, also called raw silk.

File silk—a fonetic corruption. See Faille Francaise.

Filibeg—the Highland kilt.

Filled cloth—general term for any woolen cloth that has been felted or loaded with flocks (qv) for weight, body or strength—or cheapness.

Filler cork—ground c. mixt with rubber cement or some sticky substance and used for filling in the hollow in the bottom of a shoe before the outer sole is placed on or attacht to a shoe.

Filler felt—a piece of f. used instead of cork filler, for the same purpose and in the same way.

Filling—the woof or weft threads of a woven fabric.

Financial circles—slang for dollars.

Findings—the required amounts of canvas, wigan, holland, tape, lining, felt, haircloth, buttons, etc., necessary to a garment.

Fine—see Wool.

Fine—term used in connection with gold or bullion trimming braids, indicating highest quality (in the sense, perhaps, that f. gold means pure). An inferior quality is known as mi-fine.

Fine as silk—a simile of comparison, implying excellence.

Fine cut—a delectable preparation of nicotiana tabacum.

Fine delaine—wool classification term. See Wool.

Fine-draw—to sew and close up a rent, seam, etc., with fine thread and delicate workmanship so that the joint is scarcely perceptible. See next.

Fine-drawing stitch—a practically invisible s. employed when the material is too thin or too ravelly for stoating or rentering, and for mending tears. The edges are placed together, as in stoating, except that they are not trimmed, the fray helping to cover the join. A fine needle and fine silk must be used. The needle passes in and out, catching the material lightly and without coming to the surface on the right side, making very short stitches and purposely coming uneven distances on either side of the join, distributing the strain, which would be plainly visible were the distances even.

Fine-tooth comb—a search warrant. (Definition vulgar.)

Finery—gay apparel; gewgaws; good things to avoid.

Finger cot—a covering of leather, rubber, etc., for protection to injured fingers.

Finger guard—(1) a protectiv shield of leather, rubber, etc., worn by marksmen, sailmakers, corn huskers, etc.; (2) a f. cot 101or stall, or protectiv covering, worn in case of accidents, by workers in chemicals, etc.

Finger ring—something affording a fine chance for the display of one’s bad taste; nowadays just a gaud; formerly of much significance.

Finishers—in clothing manufacture, expert needleworkers who fell-on or “finish” the basted-on collars, sleeves, linings, etc.

Finishing—general term for any and all the processes of preparing fabrics for market, as fulling, steaming, shearing, singeing, calendering, glazing, inspecting, etc.

Finishing—a process in hat manufacture where, after blocking and subsequent hydraulic pressure, stiff hats are placed upon wooden blocks and by manipulation with pouncing paper, etc., are smoothed and polished, and the brims trimmed to model dimensions.

Fir wool—see Pine w.

Fire—the interposition of Providence to (some) shopkeepers.

Fire Department uniforms—(Chicago) Dress coat: a double-breasted close-fitting sack c. of dark blue cloth, made to button close to the neck with combination lapel-rolling collar; of a length reaching to the tips of the fingers, with 2 inside breast pockets, no outside pockets but with a double-scalloped flap, as for a pocket, on each breast outside; 2 buttons on each sleeve and with buttons on breast as follows: marshal, 9 each breast, grouped in 3’s; assistant marshal and chiefs of battalion, 8 each breast, in pairs; company officers, 4 each breast, equidistant; firemen, same as for company officers, but no sleeve buttons. Fatigue coat: a single-breasted square cut sack c. of dark blue flannel, of same general specifications; vest and trousers to match. Overcoat: a double-breasted frock coat of dark blue cloth, with combination lapel-rolling collar, buttoning close to the neck, with same number and arrangement of buttons as described under Dress c. except that there are 5 on each breast, equidistant, for company officers and men; the coat in length 2 inches below knee; all seams lapt, raw; the skirt to be cut on the fold of the goods without opening, with 2 buttons at waist seam and 2 on each side of skirt plaits; 1 outside breast and 2 outside skirt pockets with scallopt flaps; 1 inside breast pocket. Insignia per regulations.

Fire department uniforms—(New York) Dress coat: a double-breasted close-fitting sack c. of dark blue cloth, cut to button to the neck, with rolling collar, and to reach midway between hip and knee, without outside pockets but with 2 inside breast pockets, lining of red cloth or flannel, 3 buttons on each sleeve and on the breast as follows: for chief of department, 2 rows of 8, grouped in pairs; for deputy chief of department and chiefs of battalion, same except spaced equidistant; for company officers, 1022 rows of 7, equidistant; for engineers of steamers and men, a single-breasted squarecut c. with 6 buttons; in summer an unlined c. of dark blue flannel; vest and trousers to match. Overcoat: a double-breasted frock coat of dark blue cloth, reaching to the knee, made to button close to the neck, with 2 rows of 8 buttons grouped in pairs for chief of department and for all other officers and members 2 rows of 5 equidistant; the body and skirt to be lined with red cloth or flannel; the skirt, which is open behind, trimmed with 2 rows of 3 buttons; 3 buttons on each sleeve; no outside pockets, but 1 inside breast pocket. For officers attacht to fireboats, a double-breasted sack overcoat, buttoning to neck with 5 buttons on each breast, spaced equally; ulster collar; 2 circular outside breast pockets; length ⅔ of knee; lined with red cloth. Insignia on coats as per regulation.

Fire marshal’s dress coat—see Fire department uniforms.

Fire sale—faky.

Fire test—see Flame t.

Firemen’s cap—(New York) a dark blue cloth cap of navy pattern, with visor of black patent leather, with insignia of rank as prescribed by regulations.

Firemen’s dress coat—see Fire department uniforms.

Firemen’s fatigue coat—see Fire department uniforms.

Firemen’s hats—(New York) for summer wear, a hat of Mackinaw straw, white for all officers (except those attacht to fireboats), and brown for all other members; sides 3¾ inches high, slightly tapering to crown; black silk band.

Firemen’s helmets—(New York) for chief of department, deputy chiefs and chiefs of battalion, a white helmet with 8 cones having a gilt front depending from a gilt eaglehead and attacht thereto in front with insignia of rank painted thereon in black and red, with title in black letters on scroll of gold; for officers of engine and hook and ladder companies, same, but of black with a white front, with insignia variously differentiated; for engineers of steamers, an all-black helmet with title and number black on white; for firemen of hook and ladder companies, black with red front, with number, etc., in white.

Firemen’s overcoat—see Fire department uniforms.

First pressing—in clothing manufacture the operation of pressing-off a garment, as a coat, preparatory to marking and sewing on buttons. Compare Underpressing and After p.

Fish—a dart or V. See Dart.

Fish bag—see Live net.

Fish-eye face—trade name for pearl and other buttons having a slightly rounded f. across which an oval slit is cut holding two holes to sew thru.

Fishing boot—same as hunting b. (qv) without the hobnails.

103Fishing cape—a plain c. of any waterproof material, worn as a protection against rain.

Fishing glove—a g. of soft leather, loose fitting, with fingers cut half length.

Fishing hat—almost any old thing with a wide brim; name sometimes applied to a light muslin, wide brimmed h. on a wire frame.

Fishing helmet—a sort of storm hat.

Fitters—in clothing manufacture the workmen who inspect and assemble the parts of garments as received from the cutting department.

Fittings—tailoring term for the necessary pieces of cloth for facings, pocket welts, etc. Compare Findings.

Flambustious—showy; gaudy; or good; as “we will have a flambustious time”. If this word is derived from “flam”, a lie or cheat, a certain transition of meaning has occurred.

Flame tests—pure dye silk will shrivel up immediately where flame is applied, leaving a dull leaden color without fire; weighted silk retains flame after match is removed and may either shrivel or burn up; cotton or other substitute or adulterant, except wool, will burn until consumed; wool chars much like silk.

Flanging—a process in hat manufacture subsequent to curling, binding and trimming, whereby further and final shape is given to the brims.

Flannel—(1) general name for a large variety of soft finisht all-wool fabrics, usually loosely woven of coarse lightly twisted yarns and but very slightly fulled, tho commonly well teasled. For men’s wear generally a very superior grade, of twill weave, fulled to a degree resembling cheviot. See also Mackinaw f., Navy twills, Shirting f., Shaker f., Baby f., etc.; (2) weaving term for undyed cloths and suiting fabrics as they come from the loom and before they reach the dye vat.

Flannelette—a stout half-cotton or all-cotton flannel-like fabric, loom figured and close napt. See Outing cloth.

Flannels—colloquial for (1) summer outing suits (usually coat and trousers) of flannel, properly in white or light colorings; and (2) for winter woolen undergarments.

Flap—a limber hanging part; a covering for pockets in garments.

Flap—the shield or falling front part of front fall trousers.

Flap-pad—see Pad and Looney.

Flapped pocket—a p. with a flap over its opening. Compare Welted p.

Flare—an outward spreading or widening, as of the skirts of a coat.

Flashy—showy, meretricious.

Flask funnel—a device to assist you in not wasting it.

104Flat back—tailor’s term for a man over-erect with a narrow back and full chest.

Flat bound—in tailoring an edge finish obtained by the use of a wide silk or other braid laid widely on the face or outer surface and but narrowly underneath and over the edge, then stitcht onto the two surface edges and prest, obtaining a flattened effect.

Flat braid—formed by a number of threads laid zigzag and crossing each other alternately over and under. See Silk b.

Flat button—not hollowed, or rounded, or shaped in any way—a general term.

Flat buttonhole—see Satin b.

Flat foot—needing an arch support (qv).

Flat goods—trade term for hosiery, underwear, etc., not soft ribbed or fashioned.

Flat iron—trade term for a style in shoes popular several years ago, quite pointed at the toe but widening sharply to the ball of the foot, resembling a flat iron in shape, hence name.

Flat last—trade term for shoes with the soles resting flat on the ground. Compare Rocking l.

Flat seam—see Pique s.

Flat set—hatter’s term for very flat hat brims.

Flax comb—a hatchel.

Fleece—see Wool.

Flesher—one who fleshes hides.

Fleshers—trade name for split glove skins as received from abroad.

Fleshing—a process in the curing and dressing of furs and leather: removing the flesh and fat from the skin.

Fleshings—properly, flesh-colored tights; loosely, tights in general, particularly if liberally exhibiting the anatomy.

Fleuret silk—same as Spun s.

Float—in weaving, the passage of a filling thread under or over several warp threads without being engaged by them.

Flock—short refuse or finely powdered wool waste or dust used in finishing cheap woolens. (Flocks.) See Extract wool.

Floorwalker—a smooth gentleman, hired to add dignity to a store, who directs you to some place you did not ask for.

Florentine—(1) a heavy silk fabric, woven figured or plain twilled, chiefly used for waistcoats; (2) a worsted waistcoating material; (3) a twilled cotton fabric for summer trousers.

Floret—trade term for the longest and finest fibers of spun silk (qv) after carding. (Fleuret.)

Florist—a shopkeeper with whom young dandies become intimate before marriage and forget afterward.

105Flossy—giddy, foppish, fussy, affected (perhaps both in brain and apparel).

Flower buttonhole—see Lapel b.

Flunky—(1) liveried man-servant; (2) a toady.

Flush—to float or pass weft threads over several warp threads, as in twill and satin weaving.

Flushing coat—something worn about 1825, but not identified.

Fly—a placket for closing or fastening together sides or parts of a garment, as of an overcoat or trousers, so as to conceal the buttons or other means of fastening. Specially designated as blind f., box f., French f., open f. (qv).

Fly coat—a long jacket reaching about half way to the knees, worn previous to the Revolution.

Fly front—tailoring term for coats made with an arrangement for concealing the buttons or other fastenings; a sort of placket of which the underpart engages the buttons, hooks, etc. Trousers also are f.-f. (except front falls).

Fob—(1) a pendant attachment to a watch, usually of silk, with gold buckle, slide, ring, seal or other ornament; an article of jewelry most variously made; (2) a watch pocket in a trousers waistband.

Fob pocket—see Watch p.

Fob ribbon—heavy, close-woven, plain edged gros-grain or fine ribbed faille silk r. made especially for watch fobs.

Fold-back cuffs—shirt c., usually attacht to the garment, made double or folded backward. Also called French c.

Folded collar—a double or folded-over shirt c., usually high banded.

Folded cuffs—see Fold-back c.

Folding cane—a walking stick with a concealed joint at about half its length, to enable it to fold and be carried in a suit case or grip.

Fool’s cap—a conical paper c. worn penitentially by the school cut-up.

Foot bath—a vessel for bathing the feet.

Foot boy—a boy in livery; a page.

Foot cloth—(1) a cloth or carpet to walk upon on occasions of ceremony; (2) a deep housing or state caparison for a horse; a sumptor c.

Footease—proprietary name for a powder to “shake into your shoes” as a fetich against walking aches.

Foot-form—shoes constructed on anatomical or foot-fitting lasts; orthopedic; waukenphast (qv).

Foot glove—a heavy, coarse woolen or felt oversock, worn over shoes while driving, etc., for warmth.

Foot hawker—a peripatetic peddler; a tray or pushcart merchant.

106Foot-mantle—see Safeguard.

Foot muff—a muffler; a fur bag for the feet.

Foot powder—a chemical preparation shaken into the shoes for relieving perspiration, aches, odors, etc.

Foot scraper—see Shoe s.

Foot-sheet—a square or oblong cloth laid upon floor or chairs for invalids to sit upon during toilet, changing of bedding, etc.

Foot-stone—a small memorial tablet at the foot of a grave.

Foot-straps—the buckled straps used to hold down the pantaloons and trousers of the early part of the last century.

Foot-warmer—any contrivance for warming the feet in carriages, in bed, etc., as (1) a muff, (2) a metal container having slow-burning cartridges of carbon; (3) a hot brick; (4) a hot-water bottle; (5) an electric warming pad; (6) a night policeman’s club.

Football jacket—a sort of stout canvas cuirass, armless, laced up the front.

Football leg guards—see Shin g.

Football mouthpiece—protective chewing gum for scrimmages.

Football pads—quilted leather p. for elbows and shoulders, worn inside the jersey or sweater.

Football pants—knickerbockers of canvas, khaki, etc., padded, quilted, and sometimes with reed guards sewed into the upper leg.

Football shoe—a s. laced well down towards toes with ankle-padding, and spikes or cleats on soles.

Footgear—shoes and so forth.

Foothold—a light skeleton overshoe of rubber protecting the fore-sole, but without heel, kept on by a heel strap.

Footman’s livery—house dress: footman’s coat, valencia or plush waistcoat, trousers, shoes, white tie; or court l. (qv); on the carriage, he should wear the second man’s l.

Fop—cross between dandy and dude.

Forage cap—a small, low cloth c. with a peak, once worn by officers and men (U. S. A.) when not in dress uniform.

Forchet—old spelling of fourchette (qv).

Forelock—a lock of hair growing over the forehead.

Forepart—that part of a coat or vest covering the chest.

Forest wool—a textil fiber made from pine needles treated with a soda solution, and otherwise manipulated, spun and woven into a resemblance of coarse wool, and manufactured on a considerable scale into blankets and clothing of the cheaper grades, said to be warm and durable; called wald wolle in Germany, where best known. Compare Xylolin.

107Forester’s uniform—(Forestry service) material a brownish green woolen or cotton khaki as adopted by the army; coat a combination of the army officer’s coat and a business sack coat, fitting snugly about chest but rather loosely about hips and waist, with blouse (Prussian) collar, 2 outside buttoned bellowsed pockets and bronze buttons of the service; vest optional (?); trousers either ordinary or cavalry style riding breeches; shirt of gray flannel with 2 buttoned breast pockets; hat of light-colored felt, similar to army service hat; riding boots or leggings should be worn with riding breeches and high-topt, heavy shoes, preferably of surveyor’s or hunting pattern, with trousers; gloves of buckskin, short or army gauntlet pattern; overcoat same as uniform material but heavier, double-breasted, ankle length, with deep riding vent, 2 inside and 2 outside vertical pockets, broad collar.

Forestry cloth—a twill woven, clear-finisht worsted fabric of standard olive-drab color, made in several weights for suitings, coatings, shirtings, etc. Adopted by the government for the forestry service.

Fork—the os coccygis; the crotch.

Form—tone, smartness, propriety, stylishness, carriage, appearance, demeanor.

Form—a model or dummy for trying on or displaying any article of apparel or other merchandise.

Form fitting—following the lines of the body closely.

Forming—a process in hat manufacture wherein the fur is attracted to a perforated fan by air-suction, then covered with cloths and dipped in warm water and afterward “hardened” by careful manipulation and rolling to make the fibers knit together.

Forward stock—the merchandise actually before the customer. Compare Reserve s.

Foulard—properly a light-weight silk fabric, woven plain or twilled, printed with an all-over pattern, the designs of which are white or color of the fabric, the background solid color.

Fountain pen—doubtless invented to spoil waistcoats.

Four-cornered cap—see Mortarboard.

Four hole—trade term for buttons pierced with 4 holes or eyes.

Four hundred—McAllisterian thaumaturgy.

Fourchette—the inner sides of glove fingers. If you will examine a glove it will be seen that it is cut all of one piece with the exception of the thumb and the fourchettes, for which the remaining fragments of the skin are used.

Four-in-hand—a long necktie narrow where it goes around the collar but with widened ends, tied in a sailor knot.

Fownes—trade diminutive for the general line of gloves made by Fownes Bros. & Co., London.

108Fox—a piece of leather applied over the upper leather of a shoe, next to the sole, either for ornament or repair. See Foxed.

Fox—a canine mammal whose pelt is highly esteemed for winter garments.

Fox tail—see Wig.

Foxt—a word usually used as f. quarter, f. top or upper. Foxt designates a peculiar pattern or style for the upper of a shoe.

(Foxed.) See Fox.

Frame—the metal ribs of an umbrella.

Frame made—trade term for fabric gloves knitted without seams.

Frameless spectacles—s. (qv) without frame or rim around the lenses.

Frangipanni—a perfume derived from or imitating the odor of the (West Indian) red jasmin.

Franklin avenue—a street in St. Louis having a number of small cheap clothing shops (compare South street and Halstead street); a local synonym for cheap clothing.

Fray—to ravel, to loosen; employed in describing cloth too soft or too loosely woven to hold stitches in a raw edge or seam.

Freak—anything monstrous, extreme in style, vulgarly ostentatious; a senseless innovation; outre.

French back—trade term for a soft-twilled woolen backing of different weave from the face, formed on the underside of clear-finisht worsteds, as trouserings, and other fabrics, with the object of increasing weight or stability without adding appreciably to the cost, or as a means of reducing cost.

French back—an overcoat (a modification of a Chesterfield) with a graceful shapely back and a long center vent usually reaching to the waist line, the side seams to the waist line being commonly French prest inverted plaits; made to button in front with a fly or to button thru as in a body coat.

French calf—indicating calfskin shoe leather produced by (1) a particular and standard method of tanning or finishing; (2) a c. skin tanned and finished in France.

French cambric—a very fine quality of cambric used for handkerchiefs, etc.

French coney—imitation sealskin.

French cuffs—see Fold-back c.

French edge—in leather goods manufacture, as luggage, an edge seamed outwardly, sewn thru and thru; “cobbler sewed”.

French facing—the inside cloth facing of a coat, so cut as to extend around the armholes.

French fall—see Falling band.

French falls—the top boots of the XVI. century, having wide, flaring tops that were turned down and then turned up again; also known as bucket tops.

109French felling—in tailoring a method of holding two pieces of material together, as the forepart and the facing of an edge. The parts to be joined are laid flat, edges even, right sides within. The needle is past straight thru, at right angles with the edge and close to it from underneath, upwards. The goods are then turned right side out and the edge finisht with stitching as desired, the felling being intended to hold the edge and prevent raveling.

French fly—see Blind f.

French foot—trade term for hosiery made with a single seam in the center of the sole. See English f.

French neck—(1) in tailoring, meaning a finish given to the back of the neck of a waistcoat by means of a double strip of lining material instead of the cloth from which the garment is made, for purposes of thinness, permitting the coat collar to set closer to the shirt c.; (2) in underwear, a crocheted instead of a welted or seamed n.

French percale—see Percale.

French prest—tailoring term applied usually to seams that are sharply prest; as, the skirts of dress and frock coats; inverted plaits in sack and overcoats. (F. pressed.)

French seal—“electric” seal; imitation.

French seams—first sewed outside out, then turned in and sewed again, so that the edges of the seam are concealed.

French serge—a fine twilled, closely woven s.

French sizes—name given to various peculiar methods of designating the sizes of shoes by stamping numerals or letters on the inside lining of the shoe. See Appendix.

French system—weaving term for worsted yarns spun on mules, usually from shorter staple than required for the Bradford s. (qv), well adapted for soft-faced goods and velour finishes.

French toe—in shoemaking, a wide, plain t. without cap.

French waist—trade term for trousers made without a sewed-on waistband.

French yarns—worsted y. combed dry, without oil, resulting in a fairly fuzzy or wooly strand, but which, however, is less liable to shrink than y. spun by the English system. Compare English y.

Fribble—a trifling or frivolous affectation or fad.

Fried egg—a low flat hat.

Friend—a borrower.

Frieze—a thick, stout, double-woven, napt woolen overcoating, woven of long fleece doubled after spinning, thoroly fulled after weaving and slightly felted until waterproof and windproof, and finisht with a long, unsheared shaggy nap. Said to have 110originated in Friesland, whence name, but better known thru the Irish or near-Irish varieties.

Fright wig—general term for any monstrosity in the (theatrical) wig line.

Frill—an ornamental strip of material gathered at the attacht edge, the other edge being free; a flounce; a ruffle.

Frills—affected airs or manners in dress or ornament; fopperies.

Frippery—tawdry finery.

Frize holland—a superior grade of fine bleacht Holland linen, once used largely for shirts, etc.

Frock-Chesterfield—a single-breasted, fly-front overcoat, with a waist seam, a three-seam back as in a frock coat, and with skirts without plaits (1907).

Frock coat—properly a c. either single or double-breasted, constructed of parts known as forepart (which in double-breasted coats is divided at the front line of the chest), sidebody, divided backpart and skirt, of each 2, the backparts continuing down to the bottom, joining with the skirt parts and forming the plaits behind, in which pockets are sometimes placed; when the skirts in front are cutaway from a point near the waistline the word cutaway is prefixt to distinguish from the more formal garment, “Prince Albert”, as the double-breasted f. is commonly known; the “cutaway frock” (of which the [English] walking c. is a variation) is almost invariably single-breasted and consequently not made with divided foreparts.

Frock coat—(navy) for all officers, a c. similar in cut to a civilian’s f. c., but of dark blue cloth, double-breasted, with 2 rows of large navy buttons, 9 each, buttoning on the six lower buttons; the sleeves, collar and shoulders bearing the insignia prescribed for the rank of the wearer.

Frocking—coarse cotton jean; drilling; dungaree; fustian.

Frog—an ornamental cloak or coat button or fastening of silk or wool crocheted or braided in various fancy forms.

Frog—(1) an old term for a seaman’s coat or frock; (2) a leather pocket or case for a pistol, bayonet or cutlass.

Front—a one-word epigram for appearance—clothes, manners, etc.

Front facing—in coat and vest making the strip of goods forming the inside forepart or edge of the garment.

Front-falls—trousers not made with a single fly-opening, but with a wide front flap, buttoning on both sides.

Frosts—spiked soles for walking on ice (early 18th century).

Fudge wheeling—an ornamental process in the finishing of the edges of shoe soles.

Full-baste—tailoring term for a coat or other garment ready for try-on with every seam basted, instead of some of the seams being sewed up.

111Full bellows tongue—a tongue in a laced shoe, attacht to both sides of the tops of the shoe at the opening and filling completely this opening.

Full bottom—see Wig.

Full box—lingo for a very loose effect in overcoats.

Full chested—bulgy.

Full dress—see Evening d.

Full dress—(army) the prescribed uniform worn on state occasions at home and abroad; when receiving or calling upon the President or upon the ruler or member of royal family of other countries; and at ceremonies and entertainments when it is desirable to do special honor to the occasion, or when f. d. is prescribed for enlisted men. For general officers, dismounted; f. d. coat and trousers, chapeau, epaulets, sash, white gloves, f. d. belt, saber, black shoes; same, mounted: f. d. coat, dress breeches, f. d. cap, shoulder knots, sash, drab leather gloves, f. d. belt, saber, black boots, spurs; officers of staff corps and departments: officers of cavalry, artillery, infantry and engineers, dismounted: f. d. coat and trousers, f. d. cap, white gloves, f. d. belt, saber, black shoes, and aigulets and shoulder belts for those authorized to wear them; same, mounted: f. d. coat, dress breeches, f. d. cap, drab leather gloves, f. d. belt, black boots, spurs; aigulets and shoulder belts as authorized; chaplains, dismounted: f. d. coat and trousers, chaplain’s hat, white gloves, black shoes; same, mounted: f. d. coat, dress breeches, drab leather gloves, black boots, spurs, chaplain’s hat; for enlisted men, worn at reviews, parades, and other ceremonies under arms, unless otherwise prescribed; dismounted: dress coat, with breast cord, dress trousers, dress cap, black shoes, white gloves, russet leather belt and cartridge box; mounted: dress coat with breast cord, dress breeches, dress cap, leggings, russet leather shoes, drab leather gloves, spurs, saber belt, and cartridge box (when prescribed).

Full dress—(navy) worn on ceremonial occasions such as making or exchanging visits with officers of flag rank, foreign officials, etc., and on ceremonies and entertainments where “dress” is not sufficient. Consists of—for all commissioned officers, except chaplains, chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers: f. d. trousers, cockt hat, epaulets, sword and f. d. belt, scarf, white gloves, medals and badges; for the officers excepted above and for warrant officers, mates and clerks, the same as “Undress A”, and for midshipmen, the same as prescribed for commissioned officers, substituting the blue cap for the cockt hat and shoulder knots for epaulets.

Full dress—(marine corps) to be worn by officers on occasions of ordinary ceremony, such as usual reviews, inspections, street parades, etc.; by enlisted men on occasions of ceremony when officers appear in special f. d. or f. d. uniform, and when ordered 112by commanding officer; and by members of the band on occasions of parades or reviews when officers appear in special f. d. or f. d. uniform and when ordered by commanding officer. Consists of—for major general commanding: f. d. coat, f. d. or white trousers, chapeau, f. d. cap or white helmet, sash, sword with f. d. belt and knot, shoulder knots, white gloves, black shoes, white standing collar (or, when mounted, dark blue riding breeches, drab leather gloves, black boots with spurs); for officers of the line: a similar uniform except no chapeau or sash; for officers of staff: a similar uniform except aigulets instead of shoulder knots, no chapeau or sash; for enlisted men (including non-commissioned officers, drummers and trumpeters): f. d. coat, blue or white trousers, f. d. cap or white helmet, white gloves, black leather shoes, arms and accouterments as ordered; for leader, drum-major and all members of band: f. d. coat, blue or white trousers, special f. d. cap or white helmet (shako for drum-major only), epaulets (leader only), shoulder knots, aigulets (except for drum-major) sword with f. d. knot and belt, (leader only) white gloves, black leather shoes, accouterments as ordered.

Full dress—(revenue cutter service) worn by officers on occasions of special ceremony and quarterly muster on board vessels of first and second rate; first visits to commanders of war vessels and military posts, parades of ceremony, etc.; consists of frock coat, plain dark blue trousers, epaulets, chapeau, sword, f. d. belt and sword knot.

Full dress belt—for naval officers of the rank of rear admiral and higher, of dark blue cloth with gold stripes of prescribed widths and with blue cloth sling straps likewise decorated; for commissioned officers, with certain exceptions, of dark blue silk webbing, with woven gold stripes.

Full dress breeches—(marine corps) for all mounted officers, of same material, and with same stripes, as f. d. trousers cut as prescribed for field b.; worn with black boots and spurs.

Full dress cap—(army) for all officers, a c. of dark blue cloth, with drooping visor of black patent leather and a flat gold cap-strap, with bands of gold lace and velvet and insignia according to rank.

Full dress cap—(marine corps) of fine dull finisht dark blue cloth, the sides 3¾ in. deep in front and 3½ in. in back, the top flat and slightly oval and flaring out slightly, the visor dropt at an angle of about 60° from the horizontal. For major general commandant, having a band of dark blue velvet 1¾ in. wide, embroidered all around with gold oak leaves, the visor covered with dark blue cloth, the top trimmed with loops of narrow gold soutache braid, and otherwise finisht and decorated as prescribed. For all other officers, the same, except the band is of gold lace; 113the visor for officers of line and staff to be ornamented with gold thread, and for company officers and captains in the staff of plain black patent leather; for non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, a similar c., but with a band of scarlet cloth lapseamed to blue sides, red worsted soutache ornament on top of c.; other details per specifications; for leader of the band, second leader and musicians, same as prescribed for special full dress. For drum-major, a shako of black lambskin, 8½ in. high in front, 10 in. high in back, plain red cloth top and red cloth bag trimmed with gold soutache braid, gilt chin strap form under chin, and 12 in. red, white and blue vulture feather plume on right side.

Full dress coat—(army) a double-breasted frock c. of dark blue cloth with a standing collar, 2 gilt buttons at back of waist and 1 near the end of each plait behind; the skirt to extend from one-half to three-quarters of the distance from hip to knee. For general officers: collar and cuffs of blue-black velvet; for other officers, collar of same material as c., no cuffs. Buttons in front: for general, 2 rows of 12, placed by 4’s; lieutenant general, 2 rows of 10, placed 3 upper and lower, 4 in middle; major general, 2 rows of 9, placed by 3’s; colonel, lieutenant colonel and major, 2 rows of 9, spaced equally; captain, first and second lieutenants, 2 rows of 7 equally spaced. For chief of engineers, same as for general officers, except that a piping of scarlet velvet appears on upper and outer edges of lapels, continuing down the edges of the coat to bottom of skirt and from top of back flaps to bottom of skirt, with a skirt facing of scarlet velvet; for other officers of engineer corps, similar piping and facing, but of scarlet cloth. For all officers, sleeve, collar and shoulder ornaments as prescribed by regulation.

Full dress coat—(marine corps) for major general commandant and all line officers, a double-breasted frock c. of dark blue cloth, in length 1 in. below crotch, with standing collar, 2 rows of large marine corps buttons wider apart at top than at bottom (9 placed in 3’s for major general commandant, 8 equidistant for other officers), 2 pockets in skirt folds, collars and cuffs with trimmings prescribed for rank of wearer. For officers of staff, a single-breasted tunic of dark blue cloth, in length 1 in. below crotch, with closed skirt behind, trimmed as for line officers, but without pockets, standing collar, and with trimmings as prescribed; aigulets and shoulder knots with f. d. and special f. d. For non-commissioned officers and privates, a single-breasted tunic of dark blue cloth, reaching 1 in. below crotch, 8 large marine corps buttons in front and 2 in back at end of waist seam, standing collar, the coat piped down front, around the bottom and up the plaits of the skirt to waist seam with ⅛ in. scarlet cloth; scarlet shoulder straps and sleeve bands and other details as prescribed. For drummers and trumpeters, a c. of the same style, except 114that it is of scarlet cloth with white piping, black collar, black shoulder straps and black sleeve bands, these straps piped with white; for leader of the band, a tunic of dark blue cloth, same patterns as prescribed for staff officers, except: the breast trimmed across with ⅛ in. gold tubular braid and 3 rows of marine corps buttons, 7 each row; cuffs trimmed as prescribed for first lieutenant without the scarlet backing. For second leader of band, a f. d. c. of scarlet cloth, made as prescribed for enlisted men of the line, except: the collar of black broadcloth piped with white; front and bottom edges and back of skirt plaits to waist piped with white; front trimmed across with black mohair braid (in the same manner as undress c. of officers) and with 3 rows of marine corps buttons, 7 each. For musicians of band, same as for second leader, except: with pointed cuffs of black broadcloth. For drum-major, same as prescribed, for second leader, except: collar of scarlet cloth trimmed with gold lace and piped with white cloth, breast trimmed with ½ in. gold tubular braid, pointed cuffs, outlined with ½ in. gold tubular braid. Other details per regulations.

Full dress coat—(navy) for bandsmen a single-breasted tunic of scarlet cloth, buttoned to the neck with 8 gilt buttons, standing collar, the front edges, bottom and skirt plaits (to waist seam) piped with white cloth, no outside pockets, shoulder decorations as prescribed.

Full dress frock coat—(revenue cutter service) for all commissioned officers: of dark navy-blue cloth, double-breasted, buttoning to the neck, rolling collar, 2 rows of service buttons on breast, 9 each side, spaced equidistant, full skirts extending nearly to the knee, trimmings, attachments, etc., as prescribed.

Full dress saber belt—see Saber b.

Full dress shirt—see Evening d. s.

Full dress sword belt—(marine corps) for all officers and leader of the band, of 1½ in. marine corps gold lace with a ³⁄₁₆ in. stripe of scarlet silk thru the center, white leather lining, showing edges, ⅛ in. Slings of same material and design.

Full dress trousers—see Evening d. t.

Full dress trousers—(army) for general officers, of dark blue cloth with 2 stripes of gold wire lace mounted on velvet, of the color of coat collar, along outer seams; for chief of engineers, the interval between the stripes of scarlet velvet; for officers of staff corps and departments (except engineers) 1 stripe of gold lace; for officers of engineer corps, stripes of scarlet cloth with white piping; for officers of cavalry, artillery and infantry, of sky-blue cloth with 1½ in. stripes, welted at the edges, of the colors of the facings of their respective corps or arms, except that for infantry the stripes are white; for chaplains, of plain black or dark blue cloth, without stripe, welt or cord.

115Full dress trousers—(navy) of dark blue cloth with a stripe of gold lace covering the outseam of each leg.

Full dress trousers—(marine corps) for major general commandant and all staff officers, of dark blue cloth, cut with medium spring, side pockets, outseams trimmed with 1¼ in. black mohair braid. For line officers, same as Special f. d. For non-commissioned officers, of sky-blue kersey, outseams finisht with 1 in. stripe of welted edge scarlet cloth. For privates, the same without the scarlet stripes. For drummers and trumpeters, the same except that the outseams have a ³⁄₁₆ in. scarlet welt; for leader of the band, same as prescribed for line officer’s special f. d. For second leader and musicians, same as prescribed for privates, except: with 2½ in. stripes of scarlet cloth down outer seams, stitcht on the outer edges, showing ¼ in. of light blue between. For drum-major, same as prescribed for other non-commissioned officers.

Full dress uniforms—(army, navy, marine corps, etc.) see Full d., et var.

Full dress waistcoat—see Evening d. w.

Full fashioned—general term for hosiery, etc., produced on automatic knitting machines, made in flat strips or patterns and then joined, either by machine or by hand. See F. regular.

Full feather—in full dress; attired in one’s best clothes.

Full fig—(nautical) full dress.

Full frock—the double-breasted frock coat, or “Prince Albert”.

Full-headed—tailoring term, meaning having fine plaits or puckers of material in the upper part, as a sleeve; not skimpt; more liberal than usual; specially, a joining of sleeve and shoulder so that top of sleeve head shows up full. See Sleeve head.

Full peg—tailoring term for extra baggy trousers, commonly predicativ of college fledglings. See P. top and Half p.

Full regular—trade term for hosiery and underwear in which the seams are made by hand knitting instead of by machine; the most expensiv grade.

Full Scotch—see Scotch edge.

Full skeleton—tailoring term for coats made without lining. Compare Half s.

Full uniform—the complement of costume, ornaments, arms, etc., prescribed for officers and men in the military and naval service on inspection, parade and ceremonial occasions. See Full dress, Special full dress, etc.

Full vamp—shoemaking term for vamps where the toes are not cut away under the tips. See Whole v., et var.

Fulled—made thicker and more compact by shrinking.

Fuller’s earth—a species of non-plastic clay used as an absorbent of grease and oil and as a cleansing agent; also used in fulling cloth.

116Fulling—the process of cleansing and condensing (or shrinking) woolen and worsted goods to render them stronger and firmer. See encyclopedia.

Fulling gum—a substance used for preparing warps for weaving.

Fur beaver—a long-napt cloth imitating fur.

Fur felt—hatter’s term for f. (and hats thereof) made from the fur of nutria, beaver, coney or other fur-bearing animals.

Fur seal—the “sealskin de luxe”, being of much finer texture than wool s. and correspondingly more valuable. Found in Alaska, Shetland Islands, Lobos Island, etc., the former being of the most uniform excellence. The hide of this variety is seldom, if ever, used for leather.

Furbelow—(1) a plaited or puckered flounce; (2) broadly, redundant or superfluos finery or ornament.

Furrier—(1) a dealer in or maker of fur goods and garments; (2) a fur dresser.

Furrier’s knife—a flat piece of steel, having the general outlines of a rhomb, one edge of which is sharpened, the opposite edge or top being concaved to form a handle.

Furs—familiar term for fur outergarments.

Fuscous—dusky; grayish brown, tawny.

Fussy—fancy, effeminate, meretricious.

Fustian—(1) formerly a kind of stout cloth made of cotton and flax; (2) now a coarse twilled linen or cotton fabric; (3) corduroy and similar fabrics are also so-called.

G

G-string—an aboriginal modesty-bit.

Gabardine—a cloak-like garment worn by Russian Jews; usually made of black cloth, silk or moire; it is buttoned down front to waist, whence it hangs to the ankles.

Gabardine—a close-woven, fine twilled waterproof cotton cloth for sporting and motor wear. Probably a blind name.

Gag—investiture for the mouth, of any sufficient model, style, or material, worn at discretion when the alternativ might be hurtful, usually applied by burglars who object to raucous cacophony.

Gaiter—(1) a cloth or leather covering for the leg or ankle; a spatterdash or overgaiter; (2) a shoe without opening, but elastic gores at the sides. See Congress g.

117Gaiter bottoms—tailoring term for trousers cut snug at the ankle and extending out covering the instep with strap fastening beneath the foot.

Gaiter trousers—just described (vs).

Galashiels—a town in Scotland famous for its tweeds known by that name.

Galatea—(1) a striped worsted suiting faintly suggestiv of Bedford cord; (2) a stout striped cotton fabric, used for shirts, pinafores, etc.

Gallant—(1) a (good or bad) man who pays court or markt attention to women; (2) a beau; (3) a man of showy or ostentatious attire.

Galligaskins—(1) wide hose or trousers formerly worn by seamen; (2) leather leggings. See Venetians.

Galloon—general term for various kinds of worsted, silk or tinsel lace or decorativ braid used on uniforms, etc.

Galloon-gallant—contemptuous for an over-decorated fop.

Galloway—a breed of cattle raised in Scotland, noted for the softness and excellence of their glossy black hair; the skins are used for fur coats, lap robes, etc.

Gallows—an early name for what we now call suspenders, modernly corrupted to “galluses”.

Galluses—suspenders. See Gallows.

Gambados—boot-like leathers, resembling leggings or spatterdashes, attacht to a saddle, protecting the feet and serving as stirrups.

Gambeson—an old-time (’way back) coat of leather or cloth, stuft and quilted, worn defensivly.

Gambroon—a twilled cloth of worsted-and-cotton or linen-and-cotton, used for summer trousers; also a twilled linen lining material.

Game bag—similar to an ammunition b., but with ventilating holes.

Gams—slang for legs, and by extension, trousers.

Gants—French for gloves.

Gape—a yawning or divergence, as of coat tails spreading apart, or of coat collar standing out and away from the neck.

Garb—one’s dress in its entirety; costume; style or peculiarity of apparel, as clerical g.

G. A. R. uniform—a plain blue sack suit, the coat either single or double-breasted, with brass buttons, and commonly a black slouch hat, with cord and tassels and gilt badge.

Garibaldi—a loose blouse waist resembling those worn by the soldiers of Garibaldi, the Italian patriot.

Garmenture—a generic name for dress.

Garner’s—trade diminutiv for the fine shirting percales manufactured by Garner & Co., Reading, Pa., and Pleasant Valley, N.Y.

118Garnetted—trade term for fabrics containing garnetted or made over carded yarns. Garnetted worsteds, for illustration, are not entitled to the designation “pure worsted”. See Garnetting.

Garnetting—the process of separating clippings, waste, etc., into new spinning fibers, resulting in carded yarns, usually mixt with good fibers, as garnetted worsted with wool, etc.

Garrison pocket—the right hip p.

Garrison shoes—(army) for enlisted men: of russet calf, Blucher style.

Garter ring—a gold finger r. made in imitation of a strap buckled in a circle.

Garter webbing—a narrow, elastic textil band or ribbon, having strips of India rubber as part of its warp; elastic w. (qv).

Garters—commonly, elastic bands capable of being elongated and adjusted ad libitum, worn around the lower extremities of one’s locomotiv members for maintaining the proper position and required altitude for the habiliments of the tibia.

Garters—nautical slang for leg irons.

Gas iron—a tailor’s smoothing or pressing i., heated by internal gas jets.

Gasoline iron—a tailor’s i. heated within by means of a gasoline flame, the fluid being contained in a tank affixt to the outside.

Gassing—a finishing process in cotton cloth manufacturing; removing the fuzz by singeing.

Gauche—in ill taste, awkward.

Gauntlet—a glove with wide cuffs attacht, usually stiff, covering the coat sleeves, to protect from dust and wind in driving; originally a mailed covering for the hand and wrist, often with offensiv armor.

Gauze—any light open-woven cotton, silk or wool material.

Gauze weaving—a method in which the warp threads are more or less intertwined among themselves, achieving light, open texturs and many fanciful or lacy combinations; if plain it is usually called leno.

Gem—any precious stone, particularly when cut and set ready for wearing.

Gem peg—a rest for the g. stick (qv) in g. cutting.

Gem stick—a rod, on the end of which a g. is cemented whilst being cut.

Gem stone—general term given to minerals suitable for cutting, as a g.

Gemel ring—a r. formed of 2 or more rings; a puzzle r.

Genapping—a process in woolen manufacture by which the free fuzz or loose fiber known as “nap” is removed from woolen yarn by singeing to make it suitable for certain kinds of cloth.

119General’s uniform—see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u. Also see variants.

Geneva gown—a clergyman’s full g. of black silk or wool stuff, made with an inner cassock-front, meeting in a sort of military collar, with white banks at the neck, and buttoning all the way down the front.

Genoese velvet—a rich patterned silk v., sometimes interwoven with gold thread.

Gent—not a gentleman.

Gent’s furnisher—the vulgar general title of a very respectable business.

Genteel—les bourgeois gentilhommes.

German sock—a knitted s. of extra heavy wool, with buckled tops or with canvas legging tops reaching to the knee, for wear with arctics or heavy shoes.

Get up—a scheme of costume; the way you are drest.

Gew-gaw—any flashy, useless ornament.

Ghaba—a long, loose flowing coatlike garment worn by the merchant class in Persia; is double-breasted, lapping over and fastening with 2 buttons, while, about the waist, a shawl is wound several times, knotted and the ends tuckt out of sight.

Gift-of-gab—an eccentricity of salesmen.

Gig—a machine for raising a nap on cloth by passing it over rotating cylinders armed with teasels. Compare Slubbing machine.

Gigging—giving a nap to woolen cloths, such as broadcloths, beaver, chinchilla, melton, etc.

Giller—a horsehair fishing line.

Gilling—a step in the process of combing worsted yarns; bringing the fibers level and parallel into a uniform strand.

Gilt button—brass.

Gimmal ring—see Gemel r.

Gimp buttonhole—made as described under b. making, but employing very coarse silk twist, and taking long, regular stitches over a heavy cord. Contrast Satin b. h.

Gingerbread—over-fancy, glaring, loud, fussy, insubstantial.

Gingham—a plain-woven reversible cotton fabric, loom-patterned in simple checks, stripes and plaids.

Gingham—vernacular for a large family umbrella.

Ginning—a step in the process of preparing cotton for weaving; separating, mechanically, the seeds from the fiber.

Girdle—the circumferential rim of a diamond or other precious stone; the line of juncture of the upper and lower pyramids. See Brilliant cutting.

Glace—glove trade term, meaning polisht or drest kid (or other) leather.

120Glad rags—evening dress clothes; frock coats; new or good clothes, generally.

Glasses—generality for eye g. or spectacles.

Glaze—a sizing or high finish applied to certain fabrics, as sleeve linings, hat trimmings, cheap underwear trimmings, etc. See Glazing, Sizing and Washable.

Glazed kid—trade term for kid leather finisht with a high polish, in contradistinction to dull k., which has a flat or dull appearance. See Chrome k.

Glazing—a glossing or calendering process effected by steam-heated steel rollers.

Glengarry—a cape overcoat; now known as Inverness (qv).

Glengarry—a Scotch cap.

Glims—cant for spectacles. (British).

Gloria—a twill woven silk and wool fabric, used largely for umbrellas.

Gloss finish—see High polish.

Glove—a leather or textil covering for the hands, having separate stalls for each finger. Anciently gloves possest considerable significance as pledges of troth and confidence, gages of battle, emblems of office, etc.—which is interesting to the searcher for curiosa, but too lengthy for this short-order book.

Glove—a wooden scraper, fastened to the workman’s hands, used in felting hats.

Glove box—a container for gloves.

Glove kid—a term used mostly by shoemakers to designate a fine, soft leather employed for the tops of fine shoes.

Glove of mail—a mailed gauntlet.

Glove stretcher—a device for stretching or “easing” gloves.

Glove tree—a wooden form in the shape of a hand for keeping gloves in condition.

Gloversville—a town in New York where nearly all the gloves made in this country are produced.

Goat—an omnivorous animal, once characteristic of Harlem and the Bronx, whose hide furnishes shoe leather and glove skins and whose pelt is made up into wild animal fur robes, etc.

Goatee—a beard or tuft, so trimmed that it falls from the chin like the beard of a goat; a fashion once very common, but now rare.

Goater—a thief’s term for dress.

Goggle-cap—a chauffeur’s c. having a front band in which goggles are affixt.

Goggles—a covering for the eyes, or also for part of the face, with glasses or lenses secured in silk gauze, leather, metal or rubber, fastened around the head with straps or wire frames and worn to exclude dust when automobiling, mining, etc.

121Gold—a precious metal, bowed down to, in the representativ abstract, by all the tribes of Israel and by the also-ran; in commerce and industry made into jewelry for one’s wives and near-wives; in medicin as an alleged constituent of a celebrated cure for good fellows.

Gold filled—trade term for a compound plate of 2 sheets of g. having a sheet of baser metal between them; by extension applied to cheap jewelry made thereof.

Gold lace—l. wrought with g. or gilt thread; an ornamental or decorativ trimming fabric formed by weaving silken threads wound round with g. filaments; most used for military, naval and similar uniforms.

Gold stick—an official of the royal household of Great Britain, a colonel of the Life Guards or a captain of the gentlemen-at-arms, who bears a gilt rod on state occasions; also loosely applied to other state attendants.

Goldsmiths’ company—one of the ancient London guilds, having certain hereditary privileges, among them that of stamping or certifying all gold and silver.

Golf bag—a long, open-end b. of canvas, leather or plaid, or combinations thereof, with a sling strap, and usually with an outside pocket for balls.

Golf cap—general name for cloth caps made with a visor or peak, but without a band.

Golf cloth—see Albert c.

Golf coat—generally, a single-breasted sack c. or Norfolk jacket with a plaited fullness under the arms to allow freedom of stroke (whence name of Stroke c. sometimes given) with a belted back; more loosely, any old c. one is not afraid of soiling; once upon a recent time a gaudy thing of green or red, or with green or red trimmings.

Golf discs—small rubber knobs affixt to heels and soles of shoes for surety of footing.

Golf glove—a g. of soft leather, usually chamois, commonly made with open (hole) knuckles and to button on the top or outside of wrist; altho there are many other models.

Golf hose—heavy woolen or worsted stockings, in Scotch patterns, quite “swell” when they were costly.

Golf shoes—s. made for the use of golfers, with protruding nails or buttons on soles to prevent slipping.

Golf sleeves—trade term for neglige shirts with s. made in 2 pieces, separated and buttoning at about the hight of the elbow, the forepart being removed for freedom and comfort.

Golf stocks—any neck stock.

Golf studs—see Boot s. and G. discs.

Golf waistcoat—same as Coat sweater.

122Golosh—an overshoe; formerly of wood; but modernly of rubber.

Good form—see Form.

Good middling—see Cotton classification.

Good ordinary—see Cotton classification.

Goodwood—perhaps the most fashionable race-meet in England, vieing with Ascot, but unlike the latter, being a private park, owned by the Duke of Richmond.

Goodyear stitching—a modern mechanical process of sewing together the sole and vamp of a shoe, the process commencing and concluding at the breast or back of heel. See below.

Goodyear welt—in shoemaking, meaning that the uppers and soles are secured by means of a welt sewed on the Goodyear machine, an improvement on the McKay machine. See above.

Goose—a tailor’s heaving smoothing iron, originally the kind heated on a stove or flame; so called from its handle, which somewhat resembles the neck of a goose.

Gore—a triangular piece of cloth let into a garment to widen it or eke out narrow goods; a gusset.

Gore—see Elastic g.

Gorge—that part of a coat or vest encircling the neck; where the collar, if any, is joined. Compare Opening.

Gorget—(1) an ornamental neckband, very full and broad in front, worn a century or two ago when men knew how to dress; (2) a steel throat armor.

Goring—see Elastic gore.

Gown—(1) a sack overcoat; a Chesterfield; a raincoat; (2) a clergyman’s robe; (3) a bachelor’s, doctor’s or other academic g.; (4) a night robe; (5) the slip or covering thrown over you whilst in the barber’s chair.

Gownsman—a collegian.

Grade—to arrange a scale or system of sizes for manufacturing or for buying and selling; to classify fibers, qualities, etc.

Grader—an assistant to the designer or head cutter in wholesale manufacturing houses; his duty is to take the first paper patterns designed for the season and grade them onto heavy paper for the cloth cutters to work from; these are called “block patterns”.

Grading—the making of a set of patterns, in all sizes, for any article of apparel.

Graduated tie—a t. for wear with standing shirt collars, narrowest at the middle and widening evenly to the ends.

Graft—a sticky substance much esteemed by buyers, manufacturers and politicians.

Grain leather—l. made from the hides of neat cattle, split so thin as to be suitable for same uses as goat, calf, etc., which it is made to imitate.

123Grand street—a street in New York famous for its Jewish pushcart trade; being lined for many blocks with double rows of peripatetic merchants displaying almost every class of merchandise.

Grandpa’s hat—a tall “top h.” of felt or beaver fur or rough silk plush, bell shaped, reminiscent of the 40’s.

Granit—weaving term for small irregular effects produced by yarns of several colors or by an irregular arrangement of the warp and weft, comprehending any and all fabrics without specific weave for foundation; in general, any face finisht fancy weave suiting not made on a twill. (Granite.)

Grass linen—coarse, plain woven, unbleacht l., used for summer clothing.

Grass suit—a weedy thing that makes a duck hunter look like a tree to a fool bird, but like a cannibal to timid humans.

Gray cloth—undyed.

Gray cotton—unbleacht or undyed.

Grease paint—an article of theatrical makeup.

Grease spot—the badge of a slob.

Great-coat—any heavy overcoat; particularly a coachman’s skirted overcoat.

Great Scott!—an aptly named depilatory (a proprietary article) said to be composed of tallow and pitch, which, on removal, causes the beauty-seeker to say Great Scott—and then some.

Greaves—leg armor.

Grecian sack—a loose, baggy box overcoat worn about 1850–60, usually with velvet collar and cuffs and quilted satin lining.

Greeley hat—see Horace Greeley h.

Green cap—a color (of c.) that undergraduates in some of our colleges are chivalrously endeavoring to force freshmen to wear.

Green gold—g. alloyed with silver. Compare red g. and white g.

Greenback—vernacular for paper money.

Grege—raw silk as wound off the cocoons.

Gregorian—see Wig.

Gremial veil—an embroidered cloth spread over the knees of a bishop when sitting during high mass.

Grenadier cap—a tall pointed c. or head covering, properly of bearskin, worn in certain European military corps.

Grenadine—a gauzy or net-like silk fabric used for men’s neckwear and women’s dresses.

Grenadine—a species of thrown silk. See Throwing.

Grenoble—(1) a town in France famous for its many glove factories and the fine quality of kid skins raised in the surrounding neighborhood; (2) a trade diminutiv implying excellence.

Grey Breeks—the popular name for Lord Lynedoch’s 90th Regiment of Foot (1794).

Grip—a suit case; a large traveling bag.

124Gripper—see Wiper.

Grogram—a stiff fabric of silk and wool or all-wool, of diagonal weave; a coarse stuff of which boat cloaks, heavy coats, etc., were once made.

Groom’s box overcoat—see Coachman’s b. o.

Groom’s frock coat—same as Coachman’s f. c., but about one inch shorter, and worn with a leather belt.

Groom’s livery—like coachman’s l. with slight modifications of detail.

Groom’s vest—a waistcoat of whipcord or corduroy with knitted or flannel sleeves attacht.

Gros de Londres—a fine weave of gros-grain silk (qv).

Grosgrain—a stout, close-woven, fine corded silk fabric, dyed in plain colors and having but little luster.

Guanaco—a South American animal of the camel family yielding a coarse, inferior hair of but little use.

Guard’s coat—a long, loose traveling overcoat of tweed or homespun, made with a whole back, held together in gathers by a cloth strap. (1907)

Guernsey—a close-fitting, knitted woolen shirt worn by sailors.

Guessfit—term coined by the compiler of this dictionary for use by tailors in derision of readymade—and now used by cheap tailors everywhere who live in glass houses themselves.

Guinea cloth—see Outing c.

Gum bucket—nautical slang for tobacco pipe.

Gum shoe—a rubber overshoe.

Gum shoe—a term for underhand transactions.

Gum stocking—see Elastic s.

Gum tissue—see Rubber t. and Buckskin.

Gums—rubber overshoes.

Gun-mouthed trousers—see Sailor’s t.

Gun-pocket—place for the arsenal.

Gunner’s uniform—(navy) see Special full dress, full d., dress, undress; (army) Full dress, Dress u., Service u., Fatigue u.; (revenue cutter service) Full dress, Service dress. See also Variations.

Gunny—see Gunnysacking.

Gunnysacking—coarse spun canvas or burlap of loose material, such as jute, used here for baling—but they use it in India for clothing among the poorer classes.

Gusset—a triangular piece of cloth, usually small, inserted into a garment to give added strength or more room; a gore.

Gutter seam—term used by collar and cuff manufacturers descriptiv of an edge s. made by folding the inner and outer plies, previously stitcht together inside out, in over the interlining, 125and then stitcht thru, finally, from the outside, the inner edges of the fold being generally overcast in advance of the first stitching. This s. is supposed to wear extra well, with little or no (?) liability to turn into “saw edges”.

Guy—anyone who makes a show of himself in his clothes.

Gymnasium shoe—a laced soft s. of kid or canvas, with a light elk or buff turn sole, having but little sock lining and no counter or box toe.

Gymkhana costume—anything absurd, in keeping with the farcical character of this ridiculous race or sport.

Gyves—fetters; the old word for handcuffs.

H

Haberdasher—a dealer in “men’s furnishings”.

Habit—the double-breasted dress coat of 1840–50 with very high collar.

Hackle—see Hatchel.

Hackling—a process of preparing flax fibers for spinning, arranging them smoothly and parallel.

Haik—a white drapery drawn low on the forehead and falling curtain-like about the face; it conceals the cachi (qv) and is held in place by one or more tightly fitting rings of camel’s or goat’s hair, prest down tightly on the head, and is of such dimensions as to conceal the entire figure. (Arabia.)

Hair clipper—a small hand-mowing machine for making “shavy-headed monkeys”.

Hair cutter—a patronizing sort of barber.

Hair dresser—just barber.

Hair dye—essence of vanity used to make gay bloods of old bucks.

Hair oil—maybe medicinal, but once worn to plaster down one’s hair when such was considered “the thing”; now a mark of the near-gent.

Hair seal—unpluckt s.

Haircloth—an elastic, resilient material woven of cotton or linen warp with a weft or filling of hair from the manes and tails of horses; employed as a stiffening interlining in coats, etc.

Hairline—in weaving, a narrow striped color effect on clothes of any description.

Half a warp—see Warp.

126Half-and-half-bound—in tailoring, an edge finish where the braid is applied evenly, back and front covering the edge, and stitcht only along the outer edges of the braid.

Half-and-half braid—see Silk b.

Half-and-half sleeve—a coat s. of which the two parts are of nearly equal width; an old style of s. with a seam showing in front, and is seldom now used.

Half back—trade term for a class of woolens combining some of the characteristics of both thru-and-thru and backt goods.

Half blood—wool classification term. See Wool.

Half-boot—an ankle boot.

Half hose—men’s stockings; socks.

Half lined—tailoring term applied to garments that are partially lined or partially “skeleton”.

Half mitts—gloves with half length fingers and thumbs.

Half mourning—black mitigated by lavender, gray or other subdued colors or white.

Half-peg—trade term for trousers on the peg-top order, but not cut quite so full. See P. top. and Full p.

Half round—trade term for buttons shaped like a half sphere.

Half Scotch—see Scotch edge.

Half skeleton—tailoring term for coats with unlined back, the side-bodies being lined.

Half sole—repairing term for worn shoes, boots, etc.—a new s. applied to the tread or forepart of the s.

Half top pocket—set at a shorter angle from the vertical than the top p.; almost a side p.

Haling hands—heavy gloves or mittens of colonial days worn by sailors and workmen (hauling—h?).

Hall-boy’s suit—plain cloth, single- or double-breasted blouse or sack coat, with regular lapel collar (or with standing military collar if single-breasted, ornamented, if at all, on cuffs or shoulders or both; side seams of trousers trimmed to match. For clubs or hotels the jacket or blouse may have two or three diverging rows of buttons, but is closed with hooks and eyes, the collar and cuffs sometimes being of contrasting color of cloth, in which case the trousers have a narrow piping of same in the side seams. No waistcoat.

Hall mark—(British) the mark placed upon gold and silver by the Goldsmiths’ Company certifying to fineness. A slight variation each year establishes the date of production.

Halo—an aurea worn by the head of the house, clearly perceptible to himself and a few satellites, but absolutely undiscernible by anyone else of normal faculties.

127Halstead street—a street in Chicago having a great number of small and cheap clothing shops (compare South s. and Baxter s.); a local synonym for cheap clothing.

Hand-fitted—tailoring term for the linings fitted into a coat one piece at a time, all the sewing being done by hand. Compare Bagged.

Hand-glasses—eye-glasses and spectacles were once so called in New York.

Hand loom—(1) a more or less primitiv or improved l. operated entirely by h. and foot, as opposed to power l.; usually found in cottages; (2) trade term for goods woven on h. looms; nearly synonymous with homespun.

Hand made—made by h. workers: distinguisht from machine made.

Hand made buttonhole—not machine made.

Hand-me-down—(1) readymade clothes; (2) second-h. clothes; from being handed down from one person to another.

Hand padded—tailoring term applied (1) to collars, lapels and coat fronts, meaning that same was made by h. instead of machine; (2) the result of making such parts by h., taking close, even, tight stitches. See next.

Hand padding—cloth, canvas, shoddy, etc., sewed together in position and ironed into shape entirely by h. for fashion’s sake or to improve fit.

Hand shaping—term generally applied to shoulders and coat fronts, indicating that the interlinings were cut and sewed together by h., being workt into shape during the latter operation, in contradistinction to such work made wholly or in part by machine (vs).

Hand-to-handmade—tailoring term meaning made entirely by operators, passing, stage by stage, from one h. to another. See Section work.

Hand-woven—(1) made on h. looms; (2) not made in a mill.

Handball gloves—g. made of padded leather, with full or cut-off fingers.

Handcuffs—steel wristlets of temporary wear occasionally seen in the lower walks of life.

Handjar—an oriental dagger or short broadsword.

Handkerchief—a square of linen, silk or cotton, with hem or selvage; plain, printed, embroidered or otherwise fancified, used for wiping the face or nose, and by country swains to waft a bye-bye to the old folks and one other as the train pulls out.

Handkerchief bosom—in shirt making a neglige shirt with a b. made of a fancy handkerchief.

Handkerchief box—a receptacle for handkerchiefs.

Handle—trade term for the “feel” of textil fabrics as indicativ of working and wearing qualities.

128Handsel—(1) a gift or token of good will; a votiv offering to Luck; the first sales or earnings, bestowed upon some one; (2) earnest money on a contract.

Hanger—(1) a loop sewed into the neck of a coat-lining or waist lining of trousers for the purpose of hanging them up in a way to become shapeless; (2) a chain for the same purpose sometimes used on heavy overcoats; (3) a wooden or metal device over which coats and vests may be hung in a shape-retaining manner or trousers suspended to retain their creases.

Hanger—a short cut-and-thrust sword, curved near the point; a sort of cutlass. (17th and 18th centuries).

Hangnail—skin partially torn from its attachment near the root of a finger nail.

Hank—a bundle of two or more skeins of yarn tied together; also a single skein (qv).

Hankie—colloquial for handkerchief.

Hanselines—a kind of breeches. (Obsolete.)

Hard finisht—same as Clear f.

Hard press—same as following.

Hard prest—tailor’s term for flat p. lapels, seams, etc. Compare Soft p.

Hard rim button—a b. made over a mold, usually covered with cloth matching the garment, but protected by a rim and back of hard rubber, naturally the most durable of covered buttons.

Hare—a short-tailed, long-eared rodent of the genus Lepus, the pelt of which is an important staple of hat manufacture and is also largely used in cheap fur garments.

Hare’s combings—loose or dead hair removed in cleaning skins, and used as an adulterant in the manufacture of cheap hats.

Hare’s foot—see Rabbit f.

Harlequin check—a check pattern of three or more different colors.

Harness belt—a leather b. of horsey appearance.

Harris tweed—a men’s wear fabric made on the island of Harris, one of the smaller British isles; originally woven by very poor people on hand looms, and dyed with natural products. A number of people took an interest in the work, notably the Duchess of Sutherland, and now a considerable trade is done in the cloth, which on account of its excellent qualities and high price, is now widely imitated, the imitations being known by the same name; the genuine is easily identified by its peculiar peaty odor.

Haslock—the throat-wool of a sheep; the finest grade.

Hat—a formal covering for the head; of various models and worn at various angles of inclination; a frequently remarked characteristic is, that, altho a h. may be satisfactory any day and night, it may not be the next morning.

129Hat band—a ribbon surrounding the crown.

Hat block—a mold on which hats are formed.

Hat body—an unfinished h. in any stage of its progress from the forming machine to the stiffening or napping apparatus.

Hat box—(1) a round or square carrying case for hats (one or more), usually of sole leather with fancy silk linings, etc.; (2) the same, of paper board.

Hat brush—a b. of soft bristles for cleansing and smoothing hats.

Hat case—a h. box.

Hat conformateur—see Conformateur.

Hat cover—a mackintosh or rubber covering for coachmen’s or groom’s h.

Hat furs—the principal furs used in the manufacture of hats are hare, rabbit, coney, nutria, beaver, muskrat, seal, mink, etc.

Hat honor—doffing the h.; a salute.

Hat lining—until the last 10 or 15 years nearly all men’s hats were lined, usually with satin in one or many colors, and often with white satin bearing pictures of sporting scenes, landscapes, etc., and especially portraits of ballet girls, and reproductions of paintings from life.

Hat manufacturing—see Carroting, Devil, Forming, Sizing, Stiffening, Stretching, Blocking, Finishing, Soft finishing, Curling, Flanging, etc.

Hat pad—a strip of felt slipt inside the sweatband to make a large h. fit a smaller head—and frequently removed the morning after.

Hat rack—a row of hooks to hang hats on for some other fellow to choose from.

Hat tip—the gaudy gold label pasted in the crown of a h. by manufacturers.

Hatchel—an implement for cleaning flax or hemp, usually consisting of a set of iron teeth fastened to a board, thru which the flax is drawn and broken, removing the woody fiber; a hackel.

Hatter—a seller of hats; a friend of Alice in Wonderland, but not, despite the popular impression, always mad in March.

Hauberk—a sort of coat of mail, either chain or plate, worn by the doughty warriors of the moldly past.

Haute nouveaute—high novelty.

Havelock—the light cotton cape or neck covering worn by soldiers and travelers in hot countries, hanging from a cap, behind the neck.

Haverly hat—a name given to hats (any style) for a short time during the latter half of the last century because such hats had tickets, good at any and all of Haverly’s theaters or traveling shows, entitling the owner of the h. to admission. (From J. H. Haverly, a popular minstrel “magnate”).

130Haversack—(1) a soldier’s ration bag, hung from the shoulder; (2) a hunter’s leather ammunition case.

Hawick—a town in Scotland famous for tweeds.

Head—see Wool.

Head—the face or small top part of a collar button.

Head-and-face-protector—a sort of leather armor for boxers afraid to take punishment.

Head carrier—see Tump line.

Head harness—general term for helmets, leather caps, ear guards, etc., worn by slugball players.

Head net—a contrivance for warding off insects.

Headlight—diamond.

Headstone—a memorial tablet at the head of a grave, often highly decorativ (or supposedly so), and emblazoned with a choice compilation of eulogistic lies.

Health band—same as Abdominal b.

Heather—a flower found in the meadows of the British kingdom; basis of the yellow dye used in coloring Harris tweeds.

Heather mixtures—trade name for fabrics of no special pattern but showing a color scheme resembling, tho faintly, a heather meadow.

Heel—the pieces of leather put together and placed on the outside of the shoe immediately under the h. of the foot.

Heel breast—(shoemaking) the back of the h.

Heel lift—(1) an elastic device of rubber, cork and felt to wear within shoes for the purpose of relieving the jar of walking, also to throw up the instep; (2) one of the layers of leather used in forming the h. of a shoe.

Heel plate—(1) a metal plate affixt to heels to prevent the leather from undue wear or damage; (2) a metal attachment fastened to the h. of a shoe for securing certain styles of ice skates securely thereto. See Shoe p.

Heel rand—see Rand.

Heel seat wheeling—a little line of indentations made in the leather around the h. (of a shoe) by a wheel, as one of the finishing operations.

Heel shaping—a mechanical process, of course.

Heel stay—see H. strip.

Heel strap—sometimes called back s. A loop either of leather or woven tape inserted in the top at the back of the shoe and used to draw the shoe on the foot by inserting the finger thru the loop.

Heel-strip—a narrow band of leather or cloth sewn inside hems of trousers where they rub on the heel.

Heeling—in modern shoemaking an entirely mechanical process, save for laying the leather together and filling with nails the holes in a nailing machine.

131Held-blistered edge—drawn too tightly with the stay tape. (Tailoring term.)

Heliotrope—a “heavy” perfume distilled from or in imitation of the flower of the same name.

Hemp—see Kemp.

Hemstitch—an ornamental finish for hems, as in handkerchiefs, effected by drawing a few threads parallel to the hem and connecting in groups by stitching, the exposed threads running oppositly.

Henrietta—a sort of fine cashmere, usually with a silk warp.

Hercules braid—a flat, coarse ribbed worsted braid, of various widths, used for ornament or decoration, largely for uniforms, and often called military braid.

Hermsdorff—trade diminutiv for fast-black hosiery, etc., dyed by Louis Hermsdorff, Chemnitz, and used in the sense of being a standard of quality.

Herringbone—general term for patterns, produced in weaving, consisting of short diagonal lines running warpwise, meeting and contrasting with another series turned oppositly, with zigzag repetition; a fishbone pattern.

Herringbone stitch—see Padding s.

Hessians—high boots, tassled in front, worn early in 19th century.

Hickory shirting—(1) a heavy, stout, plain-woven cotton material, resembling gingham, heavily starcht and calendered, used for working shirts. See Osnaburg. (2) Name also applied to a coarse twilled cotton fabric, striped or checkt, also used for working shirts.

Hides—trade term for the skins of large animals, as horse, cow, ox, etc. Compare Skins.

Higgin—the old-fashioned shoemaker’s pot of water for wetting soles.

High-band—trade term for high, turndown or folded shirt collars; also called high-bander. See Meeting folder, Lock front, Fold collar, etc.

High dutchers—skates, the blades of which are ornamentally curled in front; those without this ornamentation are called dumps.

High heels—a godsend for runts—and surgeons.

High-pickt—textil trade term for many threads to the inch.

High polish—laundry term for perverted elegance applied to one’s linen.

High-rise—term applied to trousers cut high in the waist. See Rise.

High-shouldered—having pronounced shoulders of more than normal hight.

Highwater—derisiv term for trousers too short for the wearer.

132Highland gaiters—overgaiters or spats.

Hilt—the handle and guard of a sword.

Himation—a square or oblong piece of cloth, more or less decorated, worn by the early Greeks draped about the left shoulder and covering the body (more or less) according to its adjustment.

Hip—that part of the body between the brim of the pelvis and the free part of the thigh.

Hip boots—b. reaching to the hips.

Hip pants—see H. trousers.

Hip pocket—a p. placed horizontally in the rear portion of trousers, between the waistband and seat; a breeding place of sudden death if fortified.

Hip-spring—tailoring term indicating an allowance made for the fullness of the hips in cutting a garment, as a waistcoat.

Hip trousers—t. intended to be worn without suspenders, and to be sustained by the hips with or without the aid of a belt; usually cut lower in the waist, and closer fitting there, than when suspenders are to be worn.

Hirsute appendage—whiskers.

Hob nails—short n. with very broad, heavy heads, used for sporting shoes, working brogans, etc., as a protection to the soles and for surety of footing.

Hockey glove—a stout padded leather g. for protecting fingers, joints, etc.

Hockey leg guards—see Shin g.

Hockey shoe—a laced s. with a strap across instep from side to side of heel.

Hog—pigskin.

Hog wool—term given, in England, to w. clipt from lambs.

Hoi polloi—“gents” who wear “pants” and ready-tied neckwear.

Hold-all—a leather or canvas shawl roll or carrier. See Carry-all and Wrap.

Hold in—tailoring term signifying, in the making of a garment, the feat of getting a larger part neatly into a smaller opening, or seaming a larger to a smaller part, or to work in an edge to less than its cut dimension, for purposes of shapeliness, style, etc. Compare Stretch.

Holland—a fine, stout, compact, plain woven linen cloth, usually unbleacht, sometimes slightly glazed, used as shirtings, suitings, interlinings, etc.; originally made in Holland, whence name.

Holster—a carrier for the personal arsenal.

Hollow ground—cutler’s term indicating that a blade, as of a razor, is ground concave instead of flat.

Hombourg hat—about same as Alpine or Fedora. See Tyrolean h.

133Homespun—general name for the plain woven woolen suitings made by the peasantry of the British isles, properly from undyed natural colored homespun yarns, with or without an admixture of home dyed yarns, woven on crude hand looms, and of rather loose, tho stout, texture and of enormous durability. Modernly imitated on power looms.

Honeycomb—(1) an ornamental pattern, effected in the loom, applied mostly to towelings, giving a resemblance to honeycomb cells; (2) a raised effect in weaving, sometimes employed in worsted suitings.

Hood—a cloth covering for the head; sometimes attacht to overcoats and capes, also to academic gowns, ornamentally so in this latter case.

Hood overcoat—any o. with an attacht or detachable hood; a military o.

Hoods—scholastic h. are made of the same material as the gowns; lined with the official colors of the college or university conferring the degree, or with which the recipients of academic honors from other institutions may be connected, and are trimmed with velvet, the color being distinctiv of the faculty to which the degree pertains. Thus: Arts and Letters, white; Theology, scarlet; Law, purple; Medicin, green; Philosophy, dark blue; Science, gold yellow; Fine arts, brown; Music, pink; Pharmacy, olive; Dentistry, lilac; Veterinary, gray; Forestry, russet; Library science, lemon.

Hook-and-eye—a small h. of double wire and an appropriate e. to engage it; a garment fastening device.

Hook-in—to shorten, as of the gorge of a collar.

Hop gloves—white lisle g. in contradistinction to white cotton or Berlin g. (West Point colloquialism.)

Hop stick—a crutch.

Hopsacking—a coarse, open-wove, woolen fabric, with a square or checkered mesh in imitation of bagging, made in suiting and overcoating weights.

Horace Greeley hat—a tall, felt “plug” h., later known as the (Grover) Cleveland h.

Horned alligator—a leather characterized by its peculiar sharp ridges or protuberances (the spinal ridge of the critter?).

Hornoid—trade name for a composition used for buttons in imitation of real horn.

Horns—unseen articles of decoration sometimes worn by married men.

Horse-shoe collar—trade term for coat collars not made on a straight line, but curved and twisted to fit corresponding hollows carved into the neck of the coat. This is a c. that is easily made by machinery and is a characteristic of most readymade clothing and cheap tailoring. Compare Straight c.

134Horse show—once a parade-show of horse-flesh and accomplishments; nowadays a raree show of the frills and fripperies of human “fashion” and vanity.

Horsey—applied to a straining after coaching or stable effects in attire by those who think it smart.

Hose—general term for stockings, long, short and otherwise; anciently, a sort of tights.

Hosen—obsolete plural of hose.

Hosier—British for “gent’s furnisher”.

Hosier—one who deals in hosiery and other knit goods. (Mostly of British use.)

Hosiery—broadly comprehending stockings, tights and all branches of the hosier’s business.

Hot-water bag—an article of temporary wear in illness.

Houppelande—(1) a kind of cloak or overgarment worn alike by men and women in France in the 15th century, resembling somewhat a modern dressing gown or kimona; (2) a name given in France, in the early part of the last century, to a single-caped frock coat, sometimes called a crispin cloak (qv).

House coat—a fancy lounging c. or jacket.

House slippers—homely solid comfort.

Housemaid’s collar—“British” for the highband folded or double shirt c. (men’s—not women’s, mind you!).

Hovie—a mantle of state, worn about the time of the crusades, quite a gorgeous affair and often hung with silver bells.

Huckaback—a heavy, coarse, rough linen or cotton toweling of a birdseye, honeycomb or armure weave; commonly shortened to huck.

Huddersfield—a manufacturing town in Yorkshire and the chief seat of the English cloth and woolen manufactures; a name commonly given in this country to clay worsteds from the best coming from that town from the mills of J. & B. Clay.

Humeral veil—an oblong scarf of the same material as the chasuble, worn over the shoulders by sub-deacons at high mass and by priests when giving the benediction or carrying the sacrament in procession.

Humidor—a casket designed to maintain a certain degree of moisture or humidity in cigars kept therein.

Hunting boot—an extra heavy and high shoe of stout, waterproof leather, foxt and double soled, with hobnails in sole and heel.

Hunting cap—a close-fitting, velvet c., with short visor.

Hunting-case—a watch-c. having the dial side as well as the back protected by a cover or lid.

Hunting coat—a short, red cutaway—English, you know.

135Hunting costume—those who ape British modes will please wear a “pink” (i.e. vivid scarlet) frock coat with round-cornered bell skirt (or “pink” morning coat), white corduroy or leather breeches, fancy waistcoat, neck stock, top boots, and tall silk hat; appareled thus you are fit to join William Waldorf Astor and other near-Britons.

Hunting cuffs—a finish on coat sleeves consisting of buttoned open vents with, usually, a row or two of stitching in simulation of cuffs.

Hunting frock—a single-breasted f. coat with short full skirts.

Hunting hat—a silk h. with cord or guard to prevent loss.

Hunting hood—a knitted wool h. covering entire head (except face), neck and upper shoulders, worn in cold countries by hardy hunters, explorers, etc.

Hunting sack—a name given to single-breasted s. coats designed for shooting purposes; usually with a turned down collar closing at the throat and capacious patch pockets.

Hunting shirt—(1) a deerskin, blouse-like garment, in use amongst trappers and frontiersmen; sometimes very ornamental; (2) any stout woolen, cotton or linen s. of inconspicuous color.

Husking cloth—a heavy cotton ticking used for farmers’ gloves and mittens.

Husking glove—a g. used by harvest hands for husking, etc.

Hustling suit—see Jepson.

Hymeneal knot—a style of k. that, with a little practise, is one of the easiest tied and untied.

Hyperion curls—found in novels and in portraits of Roscoe Conkling.

I

Ice-cream hat—a light-colored, soft felt h. on the telescope order, extreme in some detail of color, shape or trimming, affected usually by college boys and other irresponsibles.

Idiot fringe—football hair; bangs.

Imitation—not genuin; deceptiv; fraudulent.

Imitation fur—textil achievements, usually on a stockinet body, often quite deceptiv; near-fur.

Imitation haircloth—a stiffening interlining fabric not made with horse hair, but entirely or nearly so of heavily sized vegetable fibers, tho some of the “better” grades have variously alternated real horse hairs inserted. For tailoring purposes these poorer grades are practically worthless. See Istle.

136Immaculate—spotless.

Imp—one length of twisted hair in a fishing line.

Imperial—a cravat tied in a small, close knot and with long, wide, flowing ends or apron.

Imperial—a pointed tuft of hair on the chin just under the lower lip; so called because worn by Napoleon III.

Imported—“from the old world”, or elsewhere.

Imprime—French for printed; generally used in speaking of warp-printed silks.

In-and-out flap—in tailoring a f. made the same size as the pocket so it can be turned into same; the opposit of laid-on f., which may be larger than the width of the pocket opening; the former the distinctiv pocket f. of sack coats, the latter more often seen on frock coats.

In-the-drag—tailors’ term indicating that one is behind in his work and has to “pull out”.

In the flannel—see Flannel.

In the grease—term for fleece marketed as clipt from the sheep; unwasht.

In the gum—silk that has not been “boiled off”.

Inauguration cloth—a variant of coronation c., used in this country during the vogue of the former and about the time of a presidential inauguration.

Inch tape—a t. measure.

Incline measures—m. taken by tailors to ascertain if a customer is erect or stooping, carries his head forward or backward, has large or flat blades, etc., and how much.

Incroyable—a name given to politicians and dandies (imagine, politicians!) of the time of the (French) Directorate (1795–99), who made extremity in dress a cult—they wore the highest collars, the chokingest cravats, the most pretentious canes and were otherwise much like the precieuses ridicules of Moliere’s time.

India silk—a soft, thin, untwilled s. fabric, woven like fine muslin.

Indian gown—see Banyan.

Indian tanned—name given to a slow process of preparing leather for the market, by curing the raw hides with salt and repeated immersions in bark solutions, usually requiring as many weeks to complete as acid tanning (qv) does days, but resulting in a softer, more pliable and more durable leather.

Indigo—a deep blue dye obtained from several plants of the genus Indigofera, native of India and Asia and also found in Africa and South America; known from the most remote times; a permanent color.

Indigo test—the common t. for i.-blue on wool is to drop a small quantity of nitric acid on the goods and leave it to dry out, when, if the goods are pure i., the center of the spot will be a bright yellow 137with a border of green. For testing on cotton the simplest and safest way is to burn a piece of the goods on a porcelain plate; if the color is i., that part of the plate where the i. burns will be covered with a blue film; no other coloring matter will show a similar reaction.

Inexpressibles—prudery for trousers, outer as well as under.

Infantry uniform—see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u., et var.

Infielder’s glove—a padded g. of buckskin or other stout leather for baseball players.

Informal dress—see Day d.

Ingrain—dyed in the yarn or in a raw state.

Inlaid collar—in tailoring, a c. partly of the material of the garment and partly of velvet, the latter laid under the cloth and forming a sort of border or frame around it. Compare Laid-on c.

Inner leaf—see Leaf.

Inseam—in tailoring, the inner seam of the leg of a pair of trousers; sometimes also called the crotch seam; also the forearm seam of a sleeve.

Inseam—(glove term) a plain turned-in seam, used only with the heavier leathers.

Inside back—the inner lining of a vest, particularly the back part thereof.

Inside breast pocket—a p. made within the lining of a coat, ordinarily on the right side only, should there be an outside b. p., but if none, then on both sides.

Inside pocket—any p. made on the i. of a garment, usually within the lining, as in coats and waistcoats.

Inside shop—in the clothing business, any s. (usually on the manufacturer’s premises) where the manufacturer hires the workmen thru a foreman. See Outside s.

Inside ticket pocket—a small p. within the right-hand p. of a coat.

Insignia—any device or decoration used by orders, societies or governments as signs or marks of office or distinction.

Insignia of rank—(army) devices worn on the collar of the uniform, as follows: general and lieutenant general, such as they may prescribe; major general, two silver stars; brigadier general, 1 silver star; colonel, 1 silver spread eagle; lieutenant colonel, 1 silver leaf; major, 1 gold leaf; captain, 2 silver bars; first lieutenant, 1 silver bar. Also shoulder straps, similarly markt, as well as other regulation distinguishments—better read the department rules and regulations.

Insole—any inner lining or sole of a shoe, whether a fixt part thereof or removable.

Instructor’s glove—a boxing g. for teachers of the manly art, so constructed as to do no hurt.

138Insurance—getting some rich corporation to pay you for burning up.

Interlining—any textil or other material placed between the cloth and the lining proper of a garment for purposes of shape, strength, stiffening, etc.

Intimate—cant term for shirt.

Inventory—a detailed account of merchandise, accounts and business transacted; that on which hopes of advanced salaries rise or fall.

Inverness—a long, loose overcoat with cape, but without sleeves, for evening dress wear.

Inverted seam—sewn inside out.

Invisible patch—cobbler’s term for a patch applied by cement to a worn or damaged spot, the edges of the p. having first been shaved thin to leave little or no ridge or seam.

Invisible stitch—in tailoring, any s. not permitted to come to the surface, as a felling s., pricking s., etc.

Invisible suspenders—s. worn underneath the shirt or shirtwaist and attaching to the trousers buttons, usually by means of loop hooks, commonly worn with summer attire when it is desired to appear without a vest or coat or both.

I. O. O. F. coat—same as Masonic Sir Knight’s c., but with 9 buttons instead of 11.

I. O. U.—familiar term for chirographical curiosities collected, largely as a fad, perhaps, by tailors.

Iridescent—color-glitter; an effect of weaving.

Irish linen—general term for fine, plain-woven full bleacht linen cloth for shirt bosoms, collars and cuffs, handkerchiefs, etc.; usually 36 inches wide.

Iron—lots of it used to weight cheap silks.

Iron cloth—a fabric manufactured from steel wool, having the appearance of having been woven from horsehair and used for stiffening certain kinds of coat collars, such as standing collars on uniforms, etc.

Iron garters—cant for leg irons.

Iron-yarn—lustrene (qv).

Ironing—a finishing process in felt hat manufacturing.

Ironing—a finishing process used on the uppers of some kinds of shoes, a peculiarly shaped iron being used, in modern practise heated by electricity, sometimes by a lamp or flame. The process is used to smooth out the wrinkles and creases formed in the leather by handling the shoes thru the factory in the earlier manufacturing stages, the shoe being placed on a form during the operation.

Irons—see Cokers.

Istle—the fiber of a Mexican plant used for cheap brushes, imitation haircloth, etc. Also called Tampico, Mexican fiber, etc.

139Italian cloth—a plain colored, twill woven fabric, resembling heavy satine or jeans, composed of cotton warp with worsted or mohair filling; also of both cotton warp and weft.

Ivory—tusks of the elephant, hippopotamus, narwhal, walrus, etc. See also I. nut and Vegetable i.

Ivory nut—the seed of a Venezuela palm (phytelephas macrocarpa); when dry is very hard and resembles natural ivory in textur and color; made into buttons, etc. See Vegetable i.

J

Jabot—the shirt-frill or ruffle we wore in the 18th century; a fancy falling band.

Jacerma—a sort of short doublet, part of the national costume of Hungary.

Jack-a-dandy—some sort of a fop.

Jack boots—(1) originally, large top b., reaching above the knees and worn defensivly; (2) riding b. with a large frontpiece at the knees; (3) heavy top b. reaching above the knees, worn by fishermen and others.

Jack-knife—a large, strong clasp k. for the pocket; in the navy worn with a lanyard.

Jack-towel—a roller t.

Jackanapes—another sort of a fop.

Jacket—(1) a short coat, usually not extending to the knees; a sack coat; (2) the sack coat worn by servants.

Jacket suit—same as sack s. and lounge s. (qv).

Jacobite—a shirt collar.

Jaconet—a light, soft white cotton cloth, similar to cambric, but heavier, used for undergarments, night shirts, etc.

Jacquard loom—a l. for weaving fancy figured goods as damasks, etc.

Jaeger—trade diminutiv for the sanitary natural wool underwear, etc., introduced by Dr. S. Jaeger, a German scientist who advocates the wearing of nothing but natural wool garments inside and out, as well as for sleeping, house furnishings, etc., and by extension applied to other makes of natural wool underwear.

Jag—in New England, a parcel, bundle, or load; an old English provincialism which has held its ground colloquially on this side of the Atlantic. Jag is also a slang term for an umbrella, possibly from that article being so constantly carried. Also descriptiv of being so happy with foolish froth that one can’t stand steadily.

140Jail clothes—see Prison uniform.

Jam—cant for gold ring.

Jansenist—see Wig.

Jant—jaunty or stylish (?) (1816).

Janus cloth—a two-faced (sic) plain-woven worsted c.

Japan—a sort of varnish for metallic things.

Japanned leather—term for varnisht leathers, of which patent l. and enamel l. are varieties.

Jardiniere—weaving term for flowery effects; many-colored.

Jasper—in weaving, a seeded or pepper-and-salt effect, rather more distinctiv than Oxford (qv).

Java—a straw hat braid.

Jean—a stout, round twilled cloth, either all-cotton or cotton warp with wool filling; of various grades and finishes; used principally for working trousers.

Jean de Bry—a long skirted coat of about 1810, the tails of which were twice the length of the body part.

Jeannet—a coarse variety of jean (qv) differing structurally in that the warp instead of the weft threads form the twill. (Jeannette.)

Jellab—a hooded woolen garment, somewhat like a blouse, worn by Moors and Arabs. Corruption of Jellabia.

Jemmy—a fop.

Jenny—a spinning machine.

Jepson—a one-piece suit of clothes for men, invented by Edgar Jepson, an Englishman, at about the turn of the present century—a sort of combination coat and trousers intended mainly for work and play wear, rather than for social intercourse, the inventor himself wearing, then, the regulation attire. Also called “loose skins”.

Jerkin—a sort of waistcoat, still in use in North of England; formerly a jacket, short coat, or upper-doublet.

Jersey—a sort of sweater.

Jersey cloth—a stockinet c. of silk and wool or wool-and-cotton; very elastic. Compare Stockinet.

Jet—a variety of hard, dense, black mineral coal, capable of a brilliant polish, used in making buttons, ornaments, mourning jewelry, etc. Also called black amber.

Jetted pocket—in tailoring, a slit or slasht p., having a small strip or piece of the material seamed on and turned over inside, forming a cord at the turned edge and acting as a facing within. Also called Corded p.

Jeunesse doree—gay youth.

Jewel case—a container for jewelry.

Jeweler’s rouge—hematite (red oxid of iron) ground to an impalpable powder; used for polishing.

141Jeweler’s sawdust—finely grained boxwood s.; used as a cleansing and drying agent on gems and jewelry.

Jewelry—ostentatious bedizenment.

Jiji japa—(1) the fiber of a South American plant of same name, made into hats much like Panama hats, but considerably cheaper; (2) a hat of this fiber. (Pronounced hehe happa.)

Jilted pocket—see Jetted p. (Corruption.)

Job lot—general term applied to odd lots of merchandise set apart for sale at reduced prices.

Jobber—(1) one who purchases merchandise in large lots and resells in smaller; (2) a contractor for a mill’s output.

Jock-strap—vulgarism for the plain suspensory customarily worn by athletes. See Suspensory.

Jockey cap—a small skull c. of silk or satin with a prodigious visor of same material, in the color or colors of the horse’s owner.

Jockey club—a well-known perfume once quite popular with men.

Jockey lift—a metal device used in drawing on livery boots, serving at the same time to hold the breeches securely in place while boot is being pulled on.

Johnny Jones hat—see Telescope h.—it’s a bit more rakish.

Join—tailor’s term for seams generally, and specially for the notcht or markt parts of a seam.