Dictionary (continued 4)

Joining paste—a preparation used by actors to blend the wigband with the forehead in making up.

Join-up—the process of sewing the two halves of a coat or trousers together.

Joseph—the caped surtout of olden days; a riding coat; also called wrap-rascal (qv).

Josette—a heavy twilled cotton cloth similar to khaki, used for riding breeches, sporting wear, etc.

Josie—see Joseph.

Jour—tailoring workshop abbreviation for journeyman (qv).

Journeyman—a workman who has completed his apprenticeship or learned his trade.

Joury—a local familiar name applied to fellow “jours”.

Jouvin—trade diminutiv for gloves made by Jouvin et Cie., Grenoble, France. Xavier Jouvin was the inventor of an automatic glove cutting machine.

Jowhir—the “watering” of a Damascus blade; “damascening”.

Judge’s gown—a plain, open g. of black silk, without collar, and with wide, flowing sleeves.

Judge’s wig—a large, full-bottomed w. of precise curls, with a flap hanging down in front on each side of the face. (English.)

Judgment—a favorit word with cutters in criticism of (tailoring) “systems”—especially those who make great pretensions but who do not as regularly “make good”.

142Judicial gown—see Judge’s g.

Jumper—a workman’s loose outer-jacket or blouse.

Jumper—a mechanical pressing machine used in clothing factories, so called because the operator jumps on a lever to secure extra pressure.

Juniors—trade term for boy’s clothing, generally.

Junk—(1) any miscellaneous lot or collection of goods; (2) goods of very inferior quality.

Jupe—a heavy jacket. (Same as below?)

Jupon—a sort of surcoat without sleeves, tight fitting, but shorter than the hauberk (qv) over which it was worn; almost always made of rich stuffs and blazoned with the arms of the wearer. (About 1400 A. D.)

Justice’s gown—see Judge’s g.

K

Kaikai—a thin, plain-woven, cheap Japanese silk fabric, usually in warp stripes.

Kanaka wolf—(1) a w. of the Sandwich Islands, or loosely, of any of the South Sea Islands; (2) the fur thereof.

Kangaroo—a herbivorous macropodoid, marsupial mammal of Australasia, whose hide, when tanned, becomes a soft, supple, durable, shoe leather.

Karat—see Carat.

Kemp—(1) straight, coarse, shiny fibers or “dead hairs”, conspicuous in coarse-bred wool; (2) a mixture of short, coarse, white hairs and wool fibers, occurring chiefly where the fleece is lightest and shortest.

Kennel coat—see Paddock.

Kentucky jeans—a superior quality of jeans (qv).

Kerchief—see Handkerchief and Neckerchief.

Kersey—a heavy, all-wool cloth, compact, firm and pliable, gigged and fulled to a degree completely covering and concealing the warp and weft threads, the face finisht with a fine, short, close nap; of quality depending on the wool used, the cheaper grades often being thickened with flocks. Also a twill woven cloth of cotton warp and wool weft, similarly finisht, used for the cheaper grades of clothing.

Kerseymere—(1) a fine, twilled, woolen cloth of peculiar texture, 1 thread of warp and 2 of weft being always above; (2) a name sometimes given to cassimere.

143Kerseynette—cassinette.

Kevenhuller—a cockt hat with the crown wholly hidden, the middle of the front brim being the highest point; this succeeded the cockt hat (qv) of the 1770’s.

Key chain—a metal chain for attaching Mr. Staylate’s bunch of keys to a trouser’s button.

Key ring—a more or less complex safety device from which keys are easily lost.

Khaki—a browny-drab or dust-colored cloth of cotton or cotton and linen, of stout texture, compactly woven with a slight twill, adopted by various governments for field service dress; also used by civilians for riding breeches, hunting clothes, etc.

Khaki cap—(marine corps) for all officers, of same pattern as blue undress c., the base of the c. all around to a depth of ¼ in. of dark blue cloth, a ½ in. black patent leather strap, bronze corps device and buttons.

Kicker—a customer who doesn’t seem to be satisfied.

Kicking for a job—tailor’s term for applicants for work.

Kicks—slang for trousers.

Kicksie—one of many names for children’s romping clothes, especially of the bloomer order; sometimes applied to drawers, pantalets, etc.

Kid—leather made from young goats for gloves, shoes, etc.

Kid—wool classification term. See Wool.

Kids—kid gloves.

Kihei—a sort of mantle, about 6 feet square, of tapa bark (see Malo) once (and perhaps occasionally now) worn by both sexes in Hawaii; by the men as a sort of upper garment, by tying 2 corners on one side together and putting the head thru the opening so made.

Kike—contemptuous term for unscrupulous, tricky Hebrew merchants and manufacturers; a term little used outside of the apparel trades and seldom heard in connection with large concerns.

Kill—in tailoring, a garment that cannot be made satisfactory, after repeated alterations is said to be “a kill from the start”; a misfit; any garment not made according to specifications and which must be replaced by a new one.

Kilmarnock—a Scotch cap.

Kilt—(1) originally that part of a Scotchman’s belted plaid which hung below the waist; modernly, a separate garment like a short plaited petticoat reaching from the waist to the knees, commonly made of clan tartan goods; (2) a children’s garment like the modern k. of any material—a step between dresses and pants.

Kilt hose—long, heavy, woolen h., usually with fancy tops that are rolled or turned back several times to form a sort of cuff at about the hight of the calf.

144Kimona—in old Japan the characteristic dress of both sexes; nowadays, in this land, the garment that makes a woman look dowdy to her husband and entrancing to someone else’s husband.

Kip—see Kips.

Kips—the skins of yearlings and animals larger than calves.

Kiss-me-quick—a curl or fashioned lock of hair on one side of the forehead.

Kit bag—a commodious leather traveling b., having a flat, rectangular bottom and sloping sides.

Kit pack—a sort of half boot of the long, long ago.

Kite tail—term applied to a make of athletic underwear, having the skirt (of the shirt) cut away over the hips, leaving flaps or tails in front and behind.

K K—tailor’s hoglatin for sawhorsy legs.

Kleptomaniac—a shoplifter (qv) of social position.

Klondyke cap—a c. usually made of fur, having a round crown, a large visor and ear tabs connected behind and tied over the top when not worn down.

Knapsack—a pouch or case of leather or stout cloth, used by soldiers, travelers, prospectors, etc., for carrying light personal luggage, usually worn strapt to the back.

Knee band—the lower hem or finishing-piece on knickerbockers or breeches; made to close with buttons, straps or lacings.

Knee breeches—same as Breeches. Compare Knickerbockers.

Knee breeches—the first important event in a boy’s life.

Knee-buckle—old name for short trousers or breeches for dress wear.

Knee buckles—objects of splendor when breeches were in form; oftenest of silver.

Knee cap—an external covering for the knees, worn as a protection by carpenters, carpet layers, et al.

Knee drawers—reaching only to the knee, specially devised for summer comfort.

Knee protectors—shields of leather or other material, worn, when not out of sight, by youngsters when playing marbles and other destructiv innocent games.

Knee silk—thin, tough s. sewed inside knees of trousers to relieve the strain and prevent bagging.

Knee staking—a process in leather manufacture, where the dyed and dried skins are still further stretcht, loosened and made pliable by pressure of a workman’s bare knee on the leather brought quickly down the stake.

Knee warmers—stockinet or other knitted elastic, wool, silk or cotton coverings for persons afflicted with cold, weak or rheumatic knee joints.

Kneipp linen—an elastic, mesh-knitted, linen fabric used for undergarments.

145Knickerbocker—weaving term for ornamental effects produced by using yarns of two single threads twisted and containing added loose wool at intervals, which, when woven, gives a shaggy or lumpy appearance. See Bourette and Boucle.

Knickerbocker drawers—knee length.

Knickerbockers—knee breeches with loose, baggy knees, usually fastened with strap and band, instead of close-fitting cuffs. Compare Breeches.

Knife lanyard—a sling of knitted, bleacht white cotton, worn by enlisted men in the navy, long enough when around the neck to allow a knife to be used with arm extended.

Knights of Pythias coat—same as Masonic Sir Knights c., but with 9 buttons instead of 11.

Knights Templar coat—see Sir Knights c.

Knit—See Knitting.

Knitted cloth—a fine, closely knitted fabric of silk or mercerized cotton yarn, made in Saxony and but little known in this country; principal uses gloves and underwear for the European market.

Knitted vest—a sort of cardigan jacket or sweater of any material and degree of fineness, fashioned much like an ordinary waistcoat.

Knitting—the process of forming a fabric out of a single thread by means of needles on which the thread or yarn is placed in a succession of loops, so arranged in rows that each loop in one row passes thru the adjacent loop in the preceding row.

Knitting machine—any machine for knitting fabrics or garments, usually employing a series of barbed or hooked needles.

Knitting wool—fleece too long and coarse for fine weaving purposes. See Wool.

Knock-kneed—knees that turn inwardly or rub against each other in walking. See K.-k.

Knockabout—any rough-and-ready clothes or garment; more specifically, a loose overcoat or “slip-on”.

Knocker—the man who finds fault with this book because he happens to know more about a certain subject than is given in the definition. This is a book of “handy reference”—not a text book.

Knopt yarn—weft yarn distinguisht by lumps or knots, usually of different color, at uniform or varying distances thruout its length. (Knopped.)

Knot—a cravat with flowing ends, tied the same as a four-in-hand.

Knuckle duster—a metal weapon used to protect the knuckles and to add force to a blow. See Brass k.; also called (slang) “knucks” (qv).

Knuckle mitt—a small cushion of padded leather, with a strap, worn for punching bag practise and exhibitions.

146Knucks—thug’s finger jewelry, so constructed as to be of much efficacy in a fracas.

Krimmer—Persian lamb; the curly gray fur of commerce.

Kris—a large dagger, used by the Malays—Englisht “crease”.

Kt—abbreviation for karat or carat (qv).

L

Label—a badge, stamp or any distinguishing mark, affixt to articles of merchandise.

Lace—once used for men’s neckwear. See encyclopedia if you wish to know more.

Lace stay—a piece of tape or similar material placed between the thicknesses of the leather in the uppers of shoes to strengthen the uppers where the lacing eyelets or hooks are inserted.

Lace-up boots—Briticism for laced shoes.

Lace work—trade term for open work designs in hosiery.

Lacrosse gloves—same as Hockey g.

Ladies-cloth—a fine, wide flannel, slightly napt, similar to broadcloth.

Lagniappe—something thrown in over and above; good measure. Current in New Orleans—but fast disappearing from use. See Brotus.

Laguna—trade name for a variety of wood from the Philippine islands, used for walking sticks.

Laid-on flap—in tailoring a f. not sewed into the pocket opening but laid on above it, usually wider than the opening, as the side pockets of frock coats. See In-and-out f.

Laid-on velvet collar—in tailoring a c. partly of velvet and partly of the material of the garment, the former laid upon the cloth but not covering it, usually to within half an inch or so of the edge, the exposed cloth forming a sort of border or frame. Compare Inlaid c.

Laid wool—w. clipped from sheep that have been greased or tarred as a protection from the weather.

L’Aiglon coat—a sort of cutaway frock c. made familiar by Sarah Bernhardt when she appeared in Rostand’s play of that name as Duc de Reichstadt.

Lamb’s wool—the first clip from young sheep. Compare Wether w.

Lamps—spectacles or eye-glasses.

Lance—textil term for woven effects like minute darts, points, specks, etc.

147Lap-and-foot robe—an adjustable rubber or cloth lap r. for automobile wear, serving as over-trousers, robe and foot-muff.

Lap-board—an oblong board, round at the ends, laid on the lap of the workman, upon which the seams and other parts of a garment are presst in the process of making.

Lap front—a straight standing shirt collar without front opening, but lapping one end over the other when buttoned.

Lap robe—a rug for driving or traveling.

Lap seam—a s. made by overlapping or laying on, instead of turning in; one edge laid or lapt over the other and sewn twice. See Double-stitcht s.

Lap seam—(glove term) see Pique s.

Lapel—(1) the length of a dress coat in front, or from the gorge seam down to the waist seam; (2) the narrow strip—square at the lower end and angular at the upper end—which is sewed to the front of double-breasted frock coats; (3) the roll or “lay-over” of the front of a sack coat or any coat; the most observable part of a coat collar.

Lapel button—coat jewelry, usually bearing lodge emblem.

Lapel fob—a watch f. or short chain of metal, leather, etc., worn attacht to the l. buttonhole, the watch being carried in the outside breast pocket of coat; also called Watch Albert.

Lapel forepart—the sewed-on lapel of a double-breasted frock coat. See L. seam and Frock coat.

Lapel seam—the s. caused by sewing the back edge of the lapel strip to the front edge of the forepart.

Lapidary—one who cuts, grinds, polishes and mounts precious stones and other gems.

Lappet—a small lap or flap.

Lappet weaving—a method of producing small figures or designs on cloth, having the appearance of being darned or embroidered; special warp threads being introduced and made to cross small sections of the regular warp, manipulated by a lappet or needle attachment.

Lares and Penates—one’s household gods; loosely one’s belongings of all sorts.

Last—a wooden form on which shoes are made.

Lasting—a strong, closely woven, double-twill, worsted fabric, mostly used for buttons and shoe tops.

Lasting—the process of giving shape to a shoe.

Lasting button—a b. made on a mold covered with lasting cloth; worn on evening dress almost exclusively.

Latch key—a door k. that sometimes does not fit.

Latchet—a shoe lace or fastener of a sandal.

Latin cassock—differing from the Anglican c. in that it buttons all the way down the front with the cincture knotted forward of the left hip.

148Launder—to wash and iron, as articles of clothing.

Laundry—the place of destruction.

Laundry bag—better than a newspaper for your soiled linen.

Laundryman—keeper of the place of torment.

Laundry marks—causes of profanity.

Lavant—see Wig.

Lavender—a nice, clean scent for linen.

Laventine—a thin silk used for sleeve linings.

Lawyer’s—see Wig.

Lay—in garment making the disposition of the paper patterns upon the cloth prior to cutting, so arranged as to effect economy of material, achieve exact matching of patterns, etc.

Lay down collar—a low, folded linen shirt c.

Lay-out—see Lay.

Lay-over—see Lapel.

Lay-up—in shirt collar making the successiv layers of linen or cotton cloth laid out on tables and from which by means of patterns and a sharp knife a number of collars or parts are cut at one time.

Layette—a fussy outfit of clothes, etc., provided in anticipation of units affecting the birthrate.

Leaf—in tailoring, a word used to describe the folded part of a collar (exclusiv of the lapels). The ordinary coat collar consists of an outer l., or that part folded over, and an inner l., or that part on the inside of the fold, also called the “stand”. Used alone the word leaf means outer l.

Leaf—a division of warp threads in weaving for the insertion of the weft; a loom harness.

Leather—cant term for pocketbook—to “pull off leather”, is, therefore, to steal pocketbooks or purses.

Leathers—colloquial for coachmen’s kidskin livery breeches.

Left dress—the right way. See Dress.

Left-overs—goods carried over from one season or “sale” to another.

Left twill—weaving term indicating that the direction of the rib (as of serge, cheviot, etc.) leads from the bottom of the cloth (held lengthwise) upwardly to the left. See Right t.

Leg irons—climbing irons; also shackles.

Leggin—a covering for the leg like a long gaiter; a protector in cold or wet weather or outdoor sports. (Legging.) See Puttee.

Leghorn—a light-weight hat straw, usually in herringbone weave.

Leipzig dye—an unusually rich color (and finish) given to sealskins and other furs dyed in Leipzig, which it seems impossible to obtain elsewhere. Compare London d.

Let out—to make larger or longer.

149Letter-carrier’s uniform—see Postman’s u.

Leur—a hatter’s brushing pad.

Levantine—a stout twilled silk, each side finisht equally but of different colors.

Levelling—a mechanical process in shoemaking, following the operation of Goodyear stitching, whereby the turn-up of the channel is prest down or leveled by means of two rolls moving automatically back and forth with a pressure of about 5000 pounds.

Levy—eleven pence, the value of the Spanish real, which circulated in this country some years ago. (Pronounced levvy.)

Lid—a hat—slang, of course.

Lid—a pocket flap.

Lieutenant’s uniform—(navy) see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress, Service dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress; (marine corps) Special full dress, Full dress, Mess dress, Undress, Field dress; (revenue cutter service) Full dress, Dress, Service dress, Social full dress; (army) Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u. See also variations.

Lieutenant general’s uniform—see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u. Also see variants.

Life belt—a belt of inflated rubber, or one containing cork, for use as a life preserver.

Life preserver—a cork-filled belt, ring or jacket worn, if obtainable, after accidents at sea.

Lifters—cant for crutches.

Ligne—a unit of measurement: ¹⁄₁₁ of an inch (ribbon measure), ¹⁄₄₀ of an inch (button measure), etc.; the rib of a braid; as 6 ribs is 6 ligne, etc.

Lily irons—confederate handcuffs.

Limericks—a name once given to gloves of such delicate thinness, that altho they would fit a large hand, they would fold up into the compass of a walnut shell. From the town of that name, once famous for its glove industry. For the nature of the leather see Morts and Slinks.

Limestone wool—powdered limestone mixt with chemicals, subjected to heat and strong air-blast, coming out as fluffy white wool, which is woven into a flexible fabric used for clothing.

Liming—a process in leather preparation following that of sweating (qv), whereby roots of hairs are loosened.

Line—the fine, long fiber of flax, separated from the tow by heckling.

Line—see Ligne.

Lined gold—see Rolled g.

Linen—general name for fabrics woven from yarns spun from the fiber of flax; nothing like reading an encyclopedic article.

150Linen mesh—a net or cellular sort of weave, of linen, used for undergarments.

Linen prover—see Counting glass.

Linen test—see Breaking t., Burning t., Oil t., Sulfuric acid t., Thru-lighting t., Untwisting t.

Lining—general term for materials used for covering the inner side of a garment or anything. In men’s clothing usually silk, Italian cloth, farmer’s satin, serge, alpaca, silesia, etc.

Links—(1) shirt cuffs not closed or overlapping at the ends when buttoned; (2) double-headed buttons worn with link cuffs, of the dumb-bell or loose-link variety; (3) two coat buttons joined by workt strands of silk thread, worn sometimes in dress and frock coats, also in open vented sleeves.

Linocord—proprietary name given to a style of buttonhole for collars and cuffs having a line of heavy thread or cord (whence name) past and worked around the aperture.

Linsey-woolsey—a stout, medium-weight cloth made with linen warp and wool filling; a homespun and homewoven fabric of colonial days, now practically obsolete.

Lirripipe—a sort of tippet, tempus Richard II.

Lisle thread—a fine, hard twisted, compact t. of long staple cotton prepared by combing instead of by carding, employed in the manufacture of fine hosiery, underwear, gloves, etc.

List—the selvage of woven textil fabrics.

List slippers—cloth s.

Litter—a temporary bed upon which a wounded or sick person is carried.

Little Lord Fauntleroy—an impossible kid that started a clothes cult.

Live net—a netted-mesh bag for bringing home fish, made much like a woman’s shopping bag.

Liver pad—slang for chest protector (qv).

Livery—the dress or uniform of servants.

Livery—see Wool.

Livery cloth—see Boxcloth.

Livery tailor—one who makes a specialty of and whose business consists largely if not entirely of the making of dress and undress livery and uniforms.

Livery undress—groom’s frock or sack stable suit, made of tan, brown or black mixt whipcord. The frock coat may be worn with either trousers or breeches and leggings.

Living-in—term describing the manner of employment of English shop assistants who are generally boarded with or at the expense of their employers in quarters above the stores or in specially maintained dormitories or barracks; a survival of the old system of apprenticeship, but which, under pressure of public 151opinion and modern business ideas, is dying away to the greater independence and welfare of the clerks.

Lizzie—a mental dude.

Llama—a soft, glossy, woolen suiting woven with a fine twill; a finer and more expensiv cloth than vicuna (which it resembles), properly made from the fleece of the Llama goat, tho largely mixt with cheaper wool.

Loaded—dyer’s term for fabrics surcharged with gums and other dressings for extra or fraudulent weight.

Loading—see Weighting.

Lock front—trade term for shirt collars of the folded variety having one blade or end so shaped and extended as to go within the opposit fold and hold the collar firmly in position or “lock” it. See also Meeting folder and Spaced front.

Lock-out—the shutting up of a mill, factory or store because the owners will not agree to demands of employes or because latter would not agree to work on terms offered by the employers.

Lock stitch—see Chain s.

Lockram—a cheap, coarse linen fabric, originally made in Locrenan, Brittany.

Locust—familiar for policeman’s club; a night stick.

Loden—a waterproof cloth made by the peasants in the Tyrol from wool of mountain sheep; resembles Irish frieze, and is mostly used for knockabout shirts for mountain climbing, hunting, prospecting, etc.

Logwood—the blue-black dye obtained from the tree of that name.

Loin cloth—complete attire in hot, uncivilized countries—among the natives.

London—the mere name was once virtually deified and counted the arbiter elegantiarum in men’s wear.

London dye—trade term for the rich brown d. of sealskins, especially employed when the skins are actually dyed in London. Compare Leipzig d.

London fashions—a term of conjuration used by tailors and readymaders alike but having no significance apart from the casuistry of the words.

London letter—a fashion l. written in New York or anywhere but London.

London shrunk—see Cold water s.

London toe—in shoemaking, a medium broad t.

Long dresses—the clothes of early infancy.

Long measures—general term for those systems of tailors’ measurements characterized by the taking of as few and as comprehensiv measurements as necessary to lay out a pattern, which 152measurements are subdivided in drafting, as required to give other dimensions not taken on the victim on the block. Compare Short m. and Superlativ m.

Long moire—m. antique (qv).

Long neckt—see Low-n.

Long pants—the first important event in a boy’s life.

Long roll—tailor’s term for lapels or revers buttoning low and usually soft-prest.

Long-slim—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit tall, slender persons. Compare Slim, Long-stout and Longs.

Long staple—having a long fiber. See Cotton and Wool. Compare Short s.

Long-stout—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit corpulent persons of more than average hight.

Long tail—see Wig.

Long togs—nautical term for civilian clothes.

Long vamp—Synonymous with whole v., as compared with a short or cut-off v., a whole v., not having that part of the v. covering the toes, about the size of a tip on the ordinary shoe, cut off. By cutting off a little of the v. at this point a saving is made in the leather, and, therefore, in the cost of a shoe; but with some leathers, however, it makes a better shoe.

Long wool—fleece 4 to 10 inches long. See Wool.

Longs—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit tall men. Compare Slim, Long-slim and Long-stout.

Longs—early familiar term for pantaloons or trousers. Compare Shorts.

Lonsdale—a brand of shirting muslin and cambric.

Looking glass—a reflector of vanities. See Mirror.

Loom—a machine in which yarn or thread is woven into a fabric, by the crossing of threads called chain or warp, running lengthwise, with others called weft, woof or filling, running crosswise.

Loom card—a perforated pattern card, such as is used on the Jacquard loom.

Loom figured—textil term for patterns or effects produced by arrangement of warp and weft threads in contradistinction to those made by printing; “self-figured”.

Loom harness—that portion of a loom which so operates or acts upon the warp threads as to make the opening thru which the shuttle flies.

Loomask—a kind of half mask. See Loup.

Looney—an oblong, flattened pad, used in pressing and giving form to the collar, lapels and shoulders of a coat.

Loop stitch—see Chain s.

Loopt yarn—see Curled y.

153Looscarf—proprietary name for a linen shirt collar, of the double or high-banded order, so made that a scarf or tie slips around in it easily, without the tension characterising the ordinary style of collar.

Loose-fitting—by no means tight nor close; free; boxy.

Loose links—linkt cuff buttons not rigidly connected, but held together by means of a fine chain, a large link, or a separable slip catch.

Loose skins—a sort of union outer-suit. See Jepson.

Lord Chumley—the cape overcoat popular in this country about 1890, from the play of that name; still popular abroad as a traveling coat.

Loretto—a fine silk material largely used for waistcoats about 1767.

Lot number—a stock n. given to goods for identification purposes.

Louchettes—goggles permitting vision only directly in front, used for strabismus.

Loud—gaily drest; flashy.

Louisine—a fine twilled silk fabric, similar to surah, but softer and firmer.

Lounge jacket—English name for our single-breasted sack coat.

Lounge suit—a sack s.

Lounging robe—a long, loose, house gown.

Loup—a light mask or half mask, usually of silk, worn at masquerades, etc.

Louse-trap—vulgar for a fine-tooth comb.

Love knot—see True lovers’ k.

Love lock—a long lock of hair curled and tied with ribbons, worn hanging in front of the shoulder: an early 17th century fashion for men. See also Ear lock.

Lovelace—a dandified libertine with graceful, agreeable manners.

Low common—wool classification term. See Wool.

Low-cuts—see Low quarters and Oxfords.

Low middling—see Cotton classification.

Low-neckt—a garment is said to be “low-neckt” or “long-neckt” when the gorge in front is cut low. (L.-necked.)

Low quarters—trade term for low-cut shoes, as Oxfords, pumps, etc.

Low-shouldered—the extreme opposit of “high-shouldered”.

Luggage—British for baggage (qv).

Lumbermen’s socks—a knitted s. of extra heavy wool, close and compact, usually knee length, for wear in boots or with arctics.

Lunatic fringe—see Idiot f.

Lunch bag—same as Ammunition b.

154Luncheon basket—a lined, dust-proof wicker b. or hamper fitted with dishes, cooking utensils, etc., for coaching parties, etc.

Luster—a low grade or imitation alpaca cloth, often with wool weft in place of alpaca.

Lustering—a mechanical process of giving to cloth, usually by steam and pressure, a smooth and glossy surface sufficiently durable to withstand wear.

Lustrene—a thin, twilled cotton fabric, mercerized or finisht in imitation of silk, and employed as a lining material.

Lustring—a soft, plain-woven silk fabric, widely worn from late 17th to middle of 19th century. See Lutestring.

Lustro-fiber—same as art silk—wood pulp.

Lutestring—(1) the old-fashioned, glossy silk stuff our ancestors had their gay clothes made of; (2) also a narrow silk ribbon, without selvage, used for eye-glass cords by the spectacular.

Lynx—a feline mammal whose fur is largely used in making winter garments.

M

Macaroni—an obsolete dude. This word dates from 1770, when a number of traveled, idle young cads founded the “Macaroni Club” in London, the name standing for all that was extreme or grotesque in dress; one of their greatest affectations was a high-pointed peakt roll of craped and powdered hair, that women also affected, as well as great breastknots of flowers. The word had considerable vogue in America in Revolutionary times, and m. waistcoats, m. hats, m. purses, etc., were quite popular; the term also occurs in our national “Yankee Doodle”.

Machine buttonhole—produced by machine in imitation of handmade b. and distinguisht principally by a uniformity impossible in hand work and often superior thereto in neatness and strength tho not necessarily so in wear; also considerably cheaper.

Machine twist—a 3 cord, silk thread twisted to the left so that as it runs thru the machine needle the tension causes the thread to tighten up and work or sink into the cloth. See also Sewing silk and Buttonhole t.

Mackinaw—a sort of extra heavy woolen blanketing, well fulled, woven in fancy patterns, employed for hunters and lumbermen’s coats, etc., also as linings for same.

Mackinaw flannel—an extra heavy, all-wool fabric (16 to 24 oz), used by lumbermen, miners, etc., for overshirts, underwear, etc.; usually scarlet and navy-blue.

155Mackinaw—a coarse, pliable white straw used in hats.

Mackintosh—a long, loose overcoat of waterproof material, for wear in stormy weather.

Macnab Harris—a hand-loomed tweed made of mill-spun yarn, exhibiting a uniformity of color not possible with homespun yarn.

Maco—trade name for Egyptian cotton—long staple, smooth, strong, glossy, easily dyed.

Madder—a vegetable red dye.

Made—general trade term expressiv of superiority, claimed or conceded, as “that is a made coat”, meaning well—not indifferently—made. Compare Shop m.

Madras—a superior variety of gingham, but of heavier weight and frequently corded.

Magellan jacket—a watch coat with hood, worn by sailors in high latitudes.

Magnetic hat—see Wilsonia magnetic h.

Magnetic ring—a r. of magnetized iron, supposed to have virtues in rheumatism and other such light ailments.

Mail carrier’s uniform—see Postman’s u.

Mail order—a sale transacted by mail.

Major—see Wig.

Major’s uniform—(army) see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u.; (marine corps) Special full dress, Full dress, Mess dress, Undress, Field dress. Also see variants.

Major general’s uniform—(army) see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u.; (marine corps) Special full dress, Full dress, Mess dress, Undress, Field dress. Also see variants.

Make-up—grease paints, powders, gums, patches, bits of hair, etc., used by theatrical performers in making up for their characters.

Make-up box—a japanned metal box carried by theatrical people for the purpose of impressing beholders with an appearance of Wall street affluence.

Making the lay—tailoring term for the act of laying out the paper patterns on the cloth for cutting in the most advantageous manner.

Malacca—a species of cane, imported from Sumatra, used for walking sticks.

Malo—a sort of girdle prepared from the inner bark of the tapa tree (Broussonetia) a foot or more in width and several yards long, worn by men in Hawaii before civilization swept over that fair land.

Mamos—magnificent feather cloaks worn by native kings and chiefs of the Hawaiian islands.

156Man-milliner—a designer or seller of female apparel; often used contemptuously.

Man o’ war cap—a c. having a wide, extended flat top on a rim fitting to the head; the uniform c. for naval and merchant seamen; also popular for children.

Manacles—unfashionable cuffs.

Mandillion—a sort of loose jerkin or doublet.

Manicure—a bold, young female person of enormous pulchritude who commits felonious assaults upon your fingernails, and embarrasses you if you are not used to it.

Maniple—an ecclesiastical vestment, similar to a short stole, worn pendant from the left wrist by priest, deacon and subdeacon at mass.

Manipulated—term applied to fabrics which in weaving are mixt with some inferior substance, such as cotton with wool or silk, shoddy with wool, etc. Sometimes the adulterants are carded in with the better fibers, sometimes straight yarns of the baser stuffs are used. See Cotton cheat and Mercerized.

Mannheim gold—a brassy alloy for cheap jewelry, composed of 80 parts of copper, 20 of zinc, and sometimes with a trace of tin.

Mantaletta—a sleeveless garment of silk or woolen stuff, reaching to the knees, covering the rochet, worn by cardinals, bishops and other prelates.

Manteau Armenian—see Armenian cloak.

Mantle—a cloak.

Manufacturer—a producer of commodities, who is also sometimes (more or less erroneously) lookt upon as a dispenser of graft (qv).

Manufacturers’ sale—a merchandising subterfuge; a misnomer nine times out of ten.

Marabout—a species of thrown silk. See Throwing.

Marching shoes—(army) for enlisted men: of russet tanned grain calf leather, thoroly stuft; worn with service uniform.

Marching uniform—see Service u., Dress u., etc.

Marienbad hat—see Tyrolean h.

Marine corps officer’s cape—of dark blue cloth, cut three-quarters of a circle and reaching to the tips of the fingers, lined with scarlet cloth, closed by 4 small buttons in fly, with hooks and eyes at neck, and with frog and loop as with overcoat; a detachable velvet collar with which the c. may be worn by itself by all officers when not on duty with troops under arms.

Marine corps overcoats—for major general commandant and all other officers, a semi-fitting sack o. of dark blue cloth, lined with scarlet cloth, reaching 9 to 12 inches from the ground, closed with black mohair frogs and loops of mohair cord four-across, with a long loop and frogs attacht to fronts of shoulder; vertical 157pockets; rank indicated as prescribed; sword worn outside. For non-commissioned officers, drummers and privates: double-breasted, of sky-blue kersey, shaped to the body, extending 6 to 8 inches below the knee, 16 inch vent in back, stand-or-fall collar, 2 rows of 7 marine corps buttons on front, scarlet flannel lining; a one-piece cape to match. Other details per specifications. For leader of the band: same as prescribed for a first lieutenant, with same cape. For second leader, drum-major and musicians: same as for other enlisted men of the corps, the chevrons of second leader and drum-major to be on the cuffs.

Mark down—an ostensible price-reduction; a triumph of the ready ingenuity of the advertisement writer.

Marker—in ready-to-wear clothes manufacturing a workman who lays the patterns on the cloth and marks the cloth for the cutters.

Marking ink—employed by laundries to spoil one’s linen.

Marny tweeds—see Blarney t.

Marriage ring—a simple gold band, emblematic of bondage.

Marseilles—a heavy, stout-corded or figured bleacht cotton material similar to pique, used for waistcoats, etc.

Marsella—a stout, twill woven linen fabric, usually full bleacht and finisht without dressing.

Marten—a species of sable, the pelts being largely used in the manufacture of fur garments.

Mary Ann collar—British for the highband, folded or double shirt c.

Mary Walkers—trousers; derived from Dr. Mary Walker adopting as part of her dress a modified form of this article of male attire.

Mascaro—a preparation used by actors for changing the color of hair, beard or eye-brows in making up.

Masher—a dandified sumpinorother, often incarcerated when discovered; a Lizzie.

Mask—a device of cloth, paper or other material to cover the face or eyes or to conceal one’s identity and sentiments.

Mask cap—a c. for automobile wear, with a covering for the face with goggles secured therein.

Masonic uniform—see Sir Knights u., Commander’s u.

Masquerade costume—suit yourself.

Master’s gown—usually silk, long closed sleeves, worn with hood.

Match coat—a rough sort of c. of fur or coarse woolen cloth worn by the pilgrim settlers.

Match safe—a pocket container for matches, often obscene, of gold, silver, etc.

158Matelasse—a backt or double cloth, the face of which is woven with a pattern having the effect of being wadded or quilted; usually of silk and worsted with a backing of cotton or wool-and-cotton; employed for waistcoats, house jackets, etc.

Matt—a lusterless or dull surface, as m. kid. Also spelt mat.

Maud—a traveling rug or shawl.

Mauve—a reddish-purple anilin dye.

McKay sewed—in shoemaking meaning soles and uppers sewed together on the McKay shoe sewing machine.

Measuring cape—a device, made of cotton or linen material, shaped to fit around the neck and to drop over one shoulder, front and back, reaching about to the waist, appropriately marked with scales of measurement; the invention of a tailor by name of Beatty, who claims it yields more accurate results than is possible by square and tape; the device is also applicable to drafting.

Measuring stick—a rule, with one fixt and one movable upright piece, for measuring the foot for shoes.

Measuring tape—a tailor’s t. measure, usually 56 to 60 inches long, often longer.

Mechanician’s suit—any strong, servicable suit, worn by mechanicians on big motor cars—commonly, sack style, with ample pockets, reinforcements, etc.

Medicin ball—something like a heavy football but with no medicin in it.

Medium bound—same as half-and-half b. Compare Narrow b. and Flat b.

Meeter—same as meeting folder.

Meeting folder—trade term for folded shirt collars that come close together or meet at the fold when buttoned. Compare Spaced front.

Melange—(1) a French word signifying mixture; (2) woolen fabrics of mixt yarns.

Melton—a stout, compact woolen cloth, thoroly fulled and finisht with a close, even nap without luster; very similar but superior to kersey (qv).

Men’s outfitter—a name commonly assumed, and not improperly, by retailers who combine haberdashery, and frequently hats and shoes, with the clothing business.

Mending tissue—same as Rubber t.

Mercer—a dealer in cloths or silks.

Mercerized—a term applied to cotton fabrics of which the yarn is chemically treated and the fabric finisht by a combined chemical-mechanical process described below; also applied to woolen fabrics containing an admixture of mercerized cotton. See Manipulated and Cotton cheat.

159Mercerizing—the process of subjecting cotton yarns or cloth to the action of caustic soda and other chemicals, under stretching tension, with various subsequent finishing operations, resulting in threads or fabrics softer, silkier and stronger than before treatment; named from John Mercer, an English calico printer, the original discoverer but not the perfecter of the process.

Merchant—one who buys and sells commercial commodities; specifically, a retailer.

Merchant tailor—a clothier who combines tailoring with readymade. Compare Custom t.

Merino—(1) a thin woolen fabric made of the fine wool of the m. sheep, generally used for women’s dress wear; (2) also a knitted underwear fabric containing more or less cotton intermixt; (3) hosiery and underwear of wool-and-cotton.

Merino—the wool of a variety of sheep raised principally for their wool, which is of fine quality, long staple and of unequaled felting properties. See Wool.

Merveilleux—a fine, diagonal-twilled silk fabric with a satiny face, largely used for linings.

Mess dress—(navy) a uniform to be worn on ordinary social occasions in the evening, to which officers are invited in their official capacity, and where hot weather or other circumstances make it appropriate, also at dinner on board vessels other than those of the fourth rate, by officers for whom the mess jacket is prescribed, when the uniform of the day has been white, or, at discretion of commanding officer, instead of “evening dress B”. Consists of, for all commissioned officers (except chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers) and for midshipmen: mess jacket, white evening dress waistcoat, undress trousers (white or full dress trousers, may be prescribed), shoulder marks, white cap, black tie.

Mess dress—(marine corps) worn by all officers on mess occasions, and may be worn on social occasions to which officers are invited in their official capacity, or when evening dress B. is prescribed for officers of the navy. Consists of mess jacket (blue), evening dress trousers and waistcoat, shoulder knots, white standing collar, black silk tie, full dress cap, black shoes (white waistcoat if prescribed); in summer, white mess jacket, white or evening dress trousers, white waistcoat, blue or white undress cap, black or white shoes; otherwise the same.

Mess jacket—(army) a short j. of dark blue cloth, cut like the body of an evening dress coat, descending to the hips, slightly curved to a point behind and in front, 3 regulation buttons, sleeves ornamented same as full dress coat, with other decorations as adopted by the corps to which the wearers belong, and as prescribed by regulation.

160Mess jacket—(navy) a short coat of white linen duck or similar material, cut similar to body of evening dress coat but descending only to the hips and slightly roached over the hips with a peak behind; 2 buttons on each side below the lapels and worn with two buttons connected by a ring from the first buttonhole; appropriate shoulder marks according to regulations. For chaplains: same with white buttons.

Mess jacket—(marine corps) a round j. of dark blue cloth lined with scarlet silk to edges, in length reaching to point of the hips at sides and curving to points in front and rear, 16 small marine corps buttons on right side, with buttonholes to match on left side, standing collar, and with trimmings for rank as per regulations; to be worn unbuttoned. Also a white j. of similar style, for wear, as prescribed. Worn by major general commandant and all other officers.

Mess uniform—(army) officers of staff corps and departments, of artillery, cavalry and infantry are authorized to adopt a mess jacket distinctiv of their corps, department or regiment, for social evening occasions; with it are worn a waistcoat of the color of the coat (or white) and full dress trousers, altho in warm weather or in the tropics, white trousers may be worn; black shoes.

Messenger’s suit—usually a four-button, double-breasted sack s., of plain cloth, with regular peakt lapel collar, with or without braid trimming, trousers to match. Or, military blouse with three diverging rows of buttons closing with hooks and eyes.

Metric system—better than ours: look it up.

Mexican fiber—Istle (qv).

Mi-fine—half f. See Fine.

Middlesex—general term for standard uniform cloths made by the Middlesex Co., Lowell, Mass.

Middling—see Cotton classification.

Middling fair—see Cotton classification.

Middy suit—a s. for small boys, consisting of a sailor blouse and long trousers with wide mouths. Compare Sailor s.

Midshipman’s uniform—see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress, Service dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress. Also variants.

Milan—a fine, pliable white straw for hats.

Milan braid—a variety of flat mohair braid used for trimming and binding.

Military—term for garments affecting military uniforms in fit or detail of finish; also military garments per se.

Military back—close-fitting; shaped.

Military braid—a name sometimes given to hercules b. and soutache b.

Military brushes—twin hair b. of oval shape, without handle, used two at a time.

161Military cloths—general term for woolen fabrics intended for uniform purposes, such as kersey.

Military coat—trade name for short sack c. of 1899, having a close-fitting back.

Military collar—a plain, straight standing coat c. without turn over, of prescribed hights, fastening in front with hooks and eyes.

Military hair-brushes—see M. brushes.

Military overcoat—see Army o.

Military uniforms—see Army u.

Mill—(1) a place where fabrics are woven; (2) an occasion where two gentlemen endeavor to smash the padding out of a peculiar sort of gloves over each other’s face and solar plexus.

Mill ends—trade term referring to short lengths, remnants, seconds, damaged pieces, etc., that accumulate in mills and are usually sold at a nominal price.

Mill finish—a beautiful appearance given to cloths, fabrics, etc., which provokes the question, “How will it look after it is sponged or laundered”?

Mill-gang—that part of a loom-warp made by a rising and falling course of the threads around old-style warping-mills.

Mill wrinkles—see Cockling.

Milliner—a shopkeeper to whom much of hubby’s money goes.

Milling—the process of fulling or thickening cloth. See an encyclopedia.

Millwright frock—something worn about 1825, but not identified.

Miner’s coat—a rubber overcoat of generous size, having reinforced sleeves, shoulders, etc., and usually elastic inside sleeves or dust shields.

Minister’s—affectionate abbreviation for standard fashion plates publisht in London by a firm of that name, and subscribed for over here for the purpose of awing customers into a higher respect for their tailors.

Mink—an amphibious musteline carnivore of the genus Putorious, the pelt of which is an important article of fur garment manufacture.

Mirror—glass with one side so backt or coated as to form a nearly perfect reflecting surface.

Misericorde—a “dagger of mercy” carried by European soldiery of 15th century for the final dispatch of fallen foes.

Misfit—the term is a terror to tailors.

Misfit shop—a merchandising lie.

Mitchell’s—familiar term for standard American fashion plates publisht by a concern of that name in New York city, and which, like all other fashion plates, make a most impressiv show.

Miter—a headdress worn in solemn services by bishops and certain abbots; a tall, tongue-shape cap, terminating in a two-fold point, the whole richly ornamented. (Mitre.)

162Mitten—an unwelcome gift from a woman.

Mittens—a covering or protection for the hands, of leather or knitted wool, the thumb only being fashioned, the rest of the fingers covered by a single sack or the larger part of the mitten. (Almost always used plural).

Mixing picker—a machine for disentangling wool fibers and thoroly mixing them before carding.

Mixing willey—same as M. picker.

Mixture—trade term for fabrics woven of dyed yarns, the warp and weft being of different shades, or either or both of twisted yarns of different colors; any melange weave or effect.

Moccasin—a foot covering or shoe, without built-up heels, of buckskin or other soft leather, worn by American Indians, hunters, and others.

Moccasin shoe—a light, pliable shoe of stout leather, without heel, somewhat resembling a m.

Mocha—general term for sheep or goatskin glove leather, of soft, velvety appearance and very durable quality.

Moche—a package of spun silk as received in import.

Mock gold—an alloy of copper, zinc and platinum.

Mock seam—(glove term) a row or rows of stitching in imitation of a s.

Mock velvet—see Mockado.

Mock welt—in shoemaking, an imitation of the Goodyear process of sole sewing. See Welt sole, Goodyear welt, McKay sewed, etc.

Mockado—a sort of velvet with a very deep pile, the better grades being of silk, the cheaper of wool, used in 16th and 17th centuries. Also called Mock velvet.

Mode—the prevailing fashion or custom.

Mode—a sort of tan shade; ecru.

Modelers—workmen who try garments on human models.

Models—persons employed by some clothing manufacturers and upon whom the various garments are fitted for approval; representing types of the section where the garments are to be marketed.

Mohair—(1) the fine, silky hair of the Angora goat; (2) a glistening, light-weight, plain-woven fabric of cotton warp and filling of mohair, enormously durable, used for summer coats, linings, etc.; also twill woven. See Angora.

Mohair braid—a woven b. of mohair, coarser than silk b. of various widths, used principally for military, society and livery uniforms, known variously, according to weave, as hercules b., soutache b., etc.

Mohair button—a b. made on a mold covered with braided mohair threads, worn on dress coats, overcoats, waistcoats, etc.

163Mohair corsican—a light-weight fabric for summer suitings, woven of Australian wool and fine mohair carded together, with a finish lacking the usual sheen or luster of mohair, and warranted by the makers not to cockle, wrinkle or be affected by damp weather. (Proprietary name).

Mohair serge—a stout, twill woven lining material of cotton warp and m. weft.

Moire—(1) a wavy or watered effect produced on silks and other fabrics by means of passage thru suitably engraved rollers with brushlike attachments for disturbing and shifting the warp threads, the process embracing dampening, great pressure and ironing; (2) general name for silk (and other fabrics) so treated; also called Watered (silk).

Moire antique—an all-over m. effect. See Moire.

Moire francaise—a striped or banded m. effect. See Moire.

Molded counter—in shoemaking, a c. made of shoddy or imitation leather.

Moleskin—a heavy, stout, flexible, close twilled cotton cloth, piece dyed and finisht with a scant nap on the back, used for hunting and sporting clothes; usually tan or slate-colored. An imitation thereof, known by the same name, but lighter, and with a printed surface, is used for laborer’s trousers, etc.

Moleskins—colloquial for football clothes.

Mollie—reverse of tomboy.

Mollycoddle—sissified males, usually distinguishable by the omnipresent cigaret, also by inflammable neckwear and protesting clothes generally, and characterised by incurable lassitude, complicated by chronic ogling of pretty girls.

Momie—general term for fabrics characterised by rough, uneven weave produced by the threads crossing at irregular intervals or by warp and weft threads of various sizes. (Fr mummy).

Money-belt—a device for containing money, worn around the waist under the clothes, commonly of oiled silk or chamois leather—usually excess luggage.

Monk bag—a small purse which sailors wear strung around the neck, containing their money and other valuables.

Monkey-jacket—a short j. cut in sack form, fitting close to the waist and flaring out at the bottom. Worn by sailors in cold weather.

Monmouth cap—a c. worn about 1600, largely by sailors.

Monocle—an eye-glass for one eye; English, y’ know.

Montagnac—a variety of chinchilla overcoating (qv), having a surface composed of small loops, part of which are cut and brusht into a flowing nap producing, with the uncut part, a rough, shaggy effect. Name from Montagnac Fils, Sedan, France, the original weavers.

164Montero cap—a horseman’s knitted or cloth c. with a simple round crown and a flap around the back and sides that could be worn down for protection; worn from 1600 until late in 1800. Also called Mountier c.

Mooding—cutlery term for the rough shapening of blades at the first heat.

Mopusses—nautical slang for money in general.

Mordant—dyeing term for any metallic salt used as a connecting bond between dye and fabric.

Morice-dancing dress—a curious garment of fawn-colored silk, made in the form of a tunic, with slasht sleeves and trappings of red and green satin, worn by members of the ancient guild of Glovers at their entertainments, in which dance they had a remarkable proficiency. Accompanying the garment were 252 small circular bells, arranged in 21 sets of 12 bells each, upon strips of leather, and fastened on various parts of the dancer’s body, such sets of bells being perfectly attuned in regular musical intervals.

Morion—a pointed oval iron helmet with a curved rim, bent down over the ears, worn by French arquebusiers of the 16th century.

Morning coat—a single-breasted cutaway frock c., properly of black or quiet patterned goods, with or without hip pockets.

Morning livery—for house footmen, usually plain black tuxedo suit; for club and hotel waiters, black, blue or green tuxedo coat and trousers, with fancy vest.

Morse—a clasp used to fasten the cope (qv).

Mortarboard—a college cap of soft, black material, made to fit the head like a skull cap, surmounted by a square of cardboard or stiffened canvas (about 12 × 12 inches), also covered with black cloth and with a loose silk tassel about 10 inches long attacht to a button placed where the diagonals of the square would intersect.

Morts—in the old Irish glove trade, a name given to skins of unborn calves, taken from cows that had died. Compare Slinks.

Moschettos—garments very similar to pantaloons (qv) continued to the small of the leg, with a slight spring when the top of the shoe is reacht, having an opening with a gaiter tongue and closing with buttons, forming a combination of pantaloons and gaiters; worn early in last century.

Moscow—an overcoating cloth with a heavy nap, similar to Shetland (qv).

Mosey—an under-jacket, usually made of baize or flannel, and worn instead of an undershirt but over the shirt in cold weather, and as an outside garment in moderate or warm weather; also called a “wammus” (qv).

165Mosquito netting—a square mesh, open-woven, cotton fabric, employed for bed canopies, tent-opening covers, helmet aprons, etc.

Moth balls—aromatic substances used to disguise the odor of goods that have been carried over from one season to another.

Mother of pearl—see Nacre.

Moths—pests that make business for the clothier or tailor, or disaster, according to where they work.

Motley—“the only wear” for fools.

Motor shawl—a light, woolen wrap or neckpiece for motoring and outdoor use generally.

Motorman’s uniform—usually same as conductor’s u., which see.

Mouchoir—handkerchief.

Moule cloth—a soft, velvety overcoating of good thickness but of comparativly light-weight, tho very warm.

Mountaineer’s boot—same as hunting b., with an extra outside counter of sole leather protecting the heel.

Mountaineer’s coat—a bifurcated overcoat, usually of rubber or other waterproof material, buttoning around each leg and closing snugly around neck and wrists by means of straps or tabs.

Mountier cap—see Montero-c.

Mourning—symptoms of real or simulated grief.

Mourning badge—(navy) for officers a crepe band about 3 inches wide and about 20 inches long, knotted upon the sword hilt, and a crepe band 3 inches wide worn on the left arm above the elbow; (army) a knot of black crepe worn on the saber hilt for a period not exceeding 30 days.

Mourning band—a broad b. or brassard of black crepe fastened on the left arm of a coat, as a makeshift symbol of customary grief. Originally worn on English army officers’ caps, which, being too low to display both b. and decorations or insignia, enforced the dropping to the sleeve; next adopted by coachmen and footmen as recognition of death in the master’s family; afterward by costermongers because of its cheapness (and showiness), the cost of new black clothes being a grave consideration. Finally pickt up by ignorant Americans because of a fancied “smartness”—like the nouveau riche who invents a coat of arms, bearing a bend sinister.

Mourning colors—black thruout Europe and America, with a tendency to purple in combination; yellow, Egypt and Burmah; brown, Persia, Ethiopia and Abyssinia; white, China; blue, China; violet, Turkey.

Mourning crepe—see Crepe.

Mourning handkerchief—black bordered.

Mourning jewelry—usually lockets made of a lock of the hair of the dear departed, sometimes encircling a portrait or miniature, emblematic of g-r-i-e-f!

166Mourning periods—see Appendix.

Mourning ring—a finger r. worn in memory of a dead person, who may have bequeathed it or the money to purchase it; once upon a time en regle at a funeral and awhile after; often enameled black and bearing lugubrious moral mottos.

Moustache curler—see Curling iron.

Moustache paste—a sort of pomade used by actors, in making up, for the purpose of hiding or flattening their own upper-lip adornments.

Moustache trainer—a device for giving a fierce, amiable, freakish, languid, important or asinine appearance to one’s labial adornment.

Muckender—colonial for handkerchief.

Mozetta—a short cape covering the shoulders, a part of the state dress of bishops when not pontificating, worn with the rochet.

Mud scows—slang for overshoes.

Muff—a cylindrical fur pillow or cushion into which the hands are thrust to keep them warm, nowadays carried only by women, but once upon a time men, too, wore them.

Muffetees—colonial for wristlets.

Muffler—a piece of silk, wool or other material, usually square, used for warmth and protection of the throat in cold weather.

Muffler—a name once given to boxing gloves.

Mufflet—proprietary name for a knitted throat band, buttoning in the back, with a small apron in front covering the coat opening.

Mufti—(1) citizen’s dress worn by military or naval officers off duty; (2) ordinary dress as distinguisht from full dress or dress for state occasions.

Mule—a slipper without heel or heel-counter; a slip-on.

Mule—a spinning machine delivering rovings from drawing-rolls to spindles on a carriage that recedes from the rolls as the threads are twisted and returns to them as the thread is wound, performing the operations of drawing, stretching and twisting simultaneously.

Muleskin—a leather of obvious derivation used for heavy working gloves and mittens.

Mullet—the rowel of a spur.

Mungo—the waste produced in a woolen mill from hardspun or felted cloth, and which is used in connection with wool, cotton or better grades of waste in the manufacture of backing yarns or cheap cloth. Compare Shoddy and Garnetting.

Murry—reddish purple; in olden time “a favorit color for the garments of respectable elderly gentlemen”.

Mushy—clerks’ term for loosely rolled bolts of cloth.

Musician’s uniform—(navy) see Full dress u., Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u. Also variants.

167Musk—a perfume distilled from a secretion found in a sac in the stomach of the m. deer and other animals; the strongest and most durable of all perfumes, almost ineradicable when used in the pure state, and for which negroes have an extraordinary fondness. Musk forms the basis of many compounded scents.

Muskrat—a common marsh animal yielding a valuable fur, used as an imitation of sealskin and other costly furs; also used by hat manufacturers.

Muslin—a light, commonly plain-woven cotton cloth of various classes and names, as bleacht, unbleacht, twilled, cambric, longcloth, shirting, sheeting, silesia, and a number of others; used for shirts, night robes, etc., and in tailoring as linings and interlinings.

Mutton chops—side whiskers shaped like mutton chops, moderately trimmed.

N

Nacre—(1) mother of pearl; (2) an iridescent effect in silk weaving.

Nail—2¼ inches.

Nail—an emergency fastening when a suspender button gives way.

Nail clipper—a mechanical device for putting saw edges on one’s fingernails.

Nail file—an instrument of toilet torture.

Nail heads—name for small, rounded, covered buttons used decorativly.

Nainsook—a stout, glossy muslin, striped, barred or plain.

Naked—in need of clothes (?).

Name tag—a leather or metal adjunct to traveling luggage, carrying name and address of the owner for the information of confidence men.

Name web—a strip of cotton webbing with name of manufacturer or dealer woven therein, as shoe pulls, etc.

Nankeen—properly a peculiar fabric of a pale, dull orange color, woven out of the fibrous tissue which lies between the epidermis and the sapwood of a tree or shrub which grows in the East Indies and especially in China. The name is derived from the imperial city of Nankin or from the tree or shrub which yields the tissue. An imitation is made out of cotton and colored with aleutta. The genuine nankeen is never more than 18 or 20 inches wide, and is used mostly for light summer trousers, riding breeches, and children’s clothing.

168Nap—the projecting and inclined fibers of warp and filling thread on the surface of flannel, silk-hat material and various cloths, forming a soft surface, lying smoothly in one direction, particularly if of uniform length or texture, but feeling rough or bristly if rubbed the wrong way or against the nap.

Napa—light, tough, goatskin glove leather.

Nape—the starting point from which the length and the shoulder-measures are taken for a coat. A vertebral protuberance located in the back central part of the neck at its junction with the thorax or trunk.

Naphtha—an inflammable petroleum distillate used as a cleansing agent.

Napier cloth—a once popular, double-face c. for cloaks and wraps, one side wool, the other of hair.

Napoleon leg—a boot-l. with a “wave” top, high in front, receding sides and low back.

Napping machine—an apparatus for producing a nap on cloth, etc., particularly the modern form having fine steel wires rotating on rollers, to take the place of teasels, thus distinguisht from the older gigging machine.

Nappy—having a nap; shaggy.

Napt—having a nap, of course. (Napped.)

Narrow—trade term for goods not up to stated width. Compare N. goods.

Narrow-bound—in tailoring, an edge finish obtained by the use of a narrow braid applied half-and-half. Compare Medium-b. and Broad-b.

Narrow falls—trade name for front fall trousers in which the front flap or fall begins at about the center of each leg and is made with a smaller fall-bearer than is required in broadfalls (qv). Also called Split f.

Narrow goods—trade term for fabrics less than 29 inches wide; wider cloths called broad.

Nasal filter—a device having a screen or double screens of fine gauze or bolting cloth intended for wear when motoring, etc., to exclude dust.

Natte—textil term meaning matted or basket-weave, n. fabrics usually having small checks, in one or more colors, with the effect of being braided.

Natural—trade term for undyed furs.

Natural shoulders—not extravagantly padded artificially.

Nature’s garb—proscribed.

Navajo blanket—a stout, heavy woolen b. primitivly woven by the Navajo Indians of Arizona and New Mexico, of fantastic color combinations and so closely woven and compacted that the texture is absolutely waterproof.

169Naval lace—a variety of gold braid used for trimming uniforms.

Naval officer’s cloak—of dark blue cloth, cut three-quarters of a circle, of a length reaching to the tips of the fingers, with a rolling collar and with a frog on the breast.

Naval officer’s mackintosh—of black material reaching to 9 or 12 inches of the ground, having a rolling collar, no sleeves, and a cape reaching to the ends of the fingers; epaulets or shoulder knots as per regulation.

Naval overcoat—for officers: a long double-breasted ulster of dark blue cloth, buttoning to the neck with deep rolling ulster collar, 7 plain flat black buttons on each front, a deep vertical pocket in each breast, a belt extending from each side seam, buttoning across the back (which is cut quite full), a deep vent in the back and another over the left hip for the sword; a detachable hood, buttoning around the neck, for cold weather wear; shoulder and sleeve marks as prescribed by regulations; for chief petty officers, except bandmaster: a double-breasted ulster of dark blue cloth, reaching to the knees, lined with dark blue flannel, buttoning to the neck with deep, rolling collar, 5 large black buttons on each side, 2 vertical breast pockets and 2 lower horizontal pockets with flaps; for all other enlisted men, except bandsmen: the same, but of a length reaching to the tips of the fingers; for bandsmen: of similar model, but of sky-blue kersey, reaching to 6 or 8 inches below the knee, with a 16 in. back (center) vent, 2 rows of 7 gilt buttons, rolling collar, to which a circular cape, lined with scarlet flannel, is attacht on specified occasions.

Naval overshirt—a shirt worn by all enlisted men, except chief petty officers, officers’ stewards, officers’ cooks and bandsmen; made of dark blue flannel, loose in the body, gathered at the waist, having a collar 9 to 10 inches deep and 14 to 18 inches wide beginning at the opening in the neck (which is 7 inches deep), full sleeves terminating in fitting wristcuffs, a small pocket in the left breast; collar and cuffs trimmed with white tape and with sleeve insignia all as prescribed for the several ratings.

Naval trousers—for all enlisted men, excepting chief petty officers and bandsmen: (1) of dark blue cloth fitting snugly over the hip and down the thigh to 2 inches above the knee, from which point downward cut bell shaped and full enough to be pulled up over the thigh; one seam on each leg on the inside; made with a laced back and front falls; 2 pockets in waistband above the flap, no hip pocket; (2) of bleacht cotton drill for dress and unbleacht for undress, made with a fly front and top pockets, otherwise as described for blue trousers.

Naval uniforms—for officers, are specially designated (1) special full dress, (2) full dress, (3) dress, (4) undress A, (5) undress B, (6) service dress, (7) evening dress A, (8) evening dress B, 170(9) mess dress, (10) uniform A, (11) uniform B, (12) uniform C; for enlisted men, are designated (1) blue dress, (2) blue undress, (3) white dress, (4) white undress, (5) blue working dress, (6) white working dress, all of which see.

Navy twills—a heavy all-wool shirting flannel, twill woven, usually dyed navy-blue.

Near edge—in drafting, that edge of the pattern nearest the designer. (Tailoring term.)

Near-seal—not very near at that.

Near-silk—a mercerized cotton lining fabric having a slight glaze and high luster, with or without a twill or artificially imparted moire.

Neat—tasteful, not tawdry, clean.

Neat—see Wool.

Neats-foot oil—an o. obtained from the feet of cattle and esteemed good for keeping shoes in condition.

Neck—the stem made by the thread when sewing on buttons; as “the neck is too short” when too tight, or “the neck is too long” when too loose or drooping. (Tailoring term.)

Neck hole—tailoring term, applied to garments ready for try-on, meaning the opening to which the collar is not yet sewed on.

Neck lock—see Wig.

Neck point—the socket bone; a term in tailor’s measurements, indicating where the collar is to be adjusted to the garment.

Neck stock—see Stock.

Neckband—that part of a shirt which by going often to the laundry acquires a hardness, serration and temper prejudicial to the comfort, peace and happiness of the wearer.

Neckcloth—a cravat, scarf or other neckdressing.

Neckerchief—a square or oblong piece of silk, linen or cotton, of suitable pattern, worn as a neckcovering, principally with outing attire.

Necktie—correctly, a long, narrow tie fastened in a bow in front.

Necktie silks—see Cravating.

Necktie sociable—a vigilance committee’s soiree.

Neckwear—trade term for neckdressings of all sorts, particularly cravats, stocks, ties, etc.

Needle—a small, slender pointed steel instrument with an eye for carrying thread thru fabrics in sewing; of various kinds, known among tailors as silk-n., thread-n., button-n., basting-n., etc., and these again are known as sharps, blunts, betweens, etc.

Needle-board—a perforated board used to guide the needles in a Jacquard loom.

Needle toe—an extremely sharp pointed once fashionable (?) in shoes.

Needleman—a man who sews; a tailor, furrier, etc.

171Neglige—easy and informal dress.

Neglige shirt—a s. with plain or plaited front, but not with a built-up bosom; usually of fancy materials and most worn in the summer time.

Negro cloth—a cheap, coarse homespun cloth (of tow?), of colonial days, worn by farm laborers.

Netherstocks—stockings.

Nettle-cloth—a varnisht thick cotton cloth used for belts, cap visors, etc., as a substitute for leather.

Nettle fiber—see Ramie.

New-fangled—anything which people may not yet be used to.

New mown hay—a perfume imaginativly supposed to resemble the odor of fresh cut hay.

New York surtout—a fashionable frock overcoat of 1851, having very short skirts cut straight off (horizontally) and with a prodigious collar rolling down to the waistline, liberally trimmed with wide fancy braid.

Newmarket—general term for the long, double-breasted frock overcoat (from Newmarket, Eng., a town celebrated for its racing meets), originally worn when driving or riding; a surtout.

N. G.—slang for “no good”.

Nid d’abeille—bee hive effects in weaving.

Nifty—excellence of style and appearance; up to the mark.

Niggerhead—a cloth with rough knotted or curly surface, resembling boucle and Astrakhan. See also Petersham.

Night cap—a sort of bonnet, of light material, for sleeping in—also something to help you sleep without one.

Night drawers—sleeping garments, made usually with legs and feet, commonly worn by children.

Night gown—in colonial days an undress garment worn at home, but not for sleeping; often quite elaborate; a dressing g. or jacket; sometimes worn away from home, as at the office.

Night rail—name given in colonial times to what is our present-day night robe.

Night robe—see N. shirt.

Night shirt—a long, loose gown for sleeping purposes.

Night slip—an infant’s night dress.

Night stick—a hardwood club used by policemen in riot work, but more noticeably for rapping on the corner pavement at night to keep the neighborhood from too profound slumber.

Nightie—sleeping wear.

Nightingale—a peculiar, open-sleeved bed jacket, named after the famous nurse of the Crimean war.

Nimbus—the disk or halo which “the old man” thinks encircles his head refulgently.

172Nitch—see Notch.

No collar—self-explanatory; tailoring term used mostly in connection with waistcoat.

No dress—no allowance to be made; small. See Dress.

Noils—knots and short bits of wool taken from the long staple in combing; waste silk.

Noose—a sort of necktie of no great popularity.

Norfolk jacket—a sack coat or j., straight front and single-breasted, with or without a yoke, having box plaits down the fronts and back and a belt of same material; the adjustment and style of yoke, plaits, pockets, etc., varies with season, taste of wearer and maker; most worn for hunting and for outdoor sports.

Normal—hosiery and underwear term for natural undyed wool and garments thereof.

Normal—(clothing term.) See Regular.

Norwegian sock—a heavy knit wool stocking similar to golf hose; used by hunters, lumbermen, explorers, et al.

Nose guard—a solid rubber face disfigurer that must be chewed. (Football.)

Nose mask—same as N. guard.

Nose putty—an article of theatrical makeup.

Nosegay—a small bunch of fragrant flowers; broadly, a boutonniere.

Not balanced—said of a coat that does not hang or drape well; out of balance; shifted.

Not ready—a phrase that has lost tailors more customers than readymaders ever gained otherwise.

Notch—in garment making, a V or nick cut into the edge of the cut cloth, showing where it is to be joined to another piece with a corresponding notch.

Notch—(tailoring term.) See Step; also see below.

Notcht collar—the typical c. of all single-breasted sack coats and waistcoats. In body coats and overcoats the collar is separate from the lapel to which it is joined in such a manner as to leave a notch or “step”; in waistcoats a notcht c. is usually of one piece on each side without seam, but with a V notch cut therein. (Notched c.)

Nouveau riche—one who has recently become rich and who proceeds to show off, first of all by adopting flashier and costlier clothes than could previously be afforded.

Novelties—the transient styles of a season; fancies, not staple; the basis of all reduction sales or clearing sales.

Nuage—French for clouded effects (in weaving).

Nullifier—a name sometimes given to a sort of slipper better known as Romeo (qv).

Nun’s cloth—see below.

173Nun’s veiling—a thin, semi-transparent, plain-woven, woolen fabric, used for mourning bands, office coats, etc.; a complete suit for a man would average say 32 ounces in weight.

Nursery cloth—general name for thick, heavy cotton cloth or blanketing, used singly or two-ply in a desperate effort to save bedding from our infant ravages; most commonly a sort of very coarse, heavy, double-faced Canton flannel, or two sheets of muslin slightly wadded and quilted, tho there are several other varieties.

Nutria—the fur of the Brazilian otter, largely used in hat manufacture and for fur garments.

O

Oak tanned—term for leather tanned with oak bark.

Ocean pearl—trade term distinguishing oyster p. (and articles thereof) from fresh water or mussel and clam shell p. from inland waters.

Odd Fellow’s coat—same as Masonic Sir Knight’s c., but with 9 buttons instead of 11.

Off color—trade term for goods not comparing with the standard of color by which bought. Compare Cloudy and Shaded.

Office—where the pay envelope comes from; otherwise useless to the average employe.

Office coat—usually an alpaca sack c., unlined, broadly, any old c. not fit to be seen on the street, but good enough to wipe pens on.

Office towel—an indurated, inelastic piece of textil fabric of dark color, used for toilet purposes.

Officer’s facings—(army) color for general officers, staff and department officers, dark blue; for officers of engineers, scarlet piped with white; signal corps, orange piped with white; ordnance, black piped with scarlet; medical corps, maroon; quartermaster’s department, buff; cavalry, yellow; artillery, scarlet; infantry, light blue.

Oil-boiled—trade term for colors so treated as to ensure permanence.

Oil frock—a waterproof slicker-coat worn by miners, fishermen, etc.

Oil grain—same as stuft leather.

Oil test—(linen vs. cotton); a sample of cloth is boiled in water or alkali solution to remove the finishing matter, then laid on a 174glass plate and saturated with a heavy oil. A smaller glass plate is then placed over the sample to protect it from the air. After removing the surplus oil from the edges, the sample is examined with the light falling on it, and then with the light passing thru it. The linen fiber, owing to its thick cells with their greater resistance to light, appears transparent and resembles a slop of grease on paper. When the light passes thru it, it appears bright; and when the light falls upon it, it is dark. The reverse is the case with cotton. The air in the interior of the cotton fiber, as well as between the fibers themselves, is not displaced by the oil, and makes the cotton appear opaque; consequently when the light falls on the fiber it is bright, and when the light passes thru it it is dark.

Oilcloth—a painted and varnisht cotton fabric, largely employed, among other uses, for cap visors, belt linings, etc.

Oiled silk—a thin, plain-woven silk fabric impregnated with boiled oil and dried, becoming translucent and waterproof, used for perspiration guards, money belts, etc.

Oilers—vernacular for oilskins (qv).

Oilskin—a heavy, cotton cloth impregnated with oil and gum to render it waterproof; used for sailor’s coats, slickers, etc.; the name is also applied to such garments.

Oilskins—“slickers” (qv). Also see above.

O. K.—all right; all correct. The most popular idea of the derivation is that told of General Jackson, better known in American history as Old Hickory, who was not much at home in the art of spelling, and that he employed the letters O. K. as an endorsement of applications for office and other papers, intending them to stand for “all (orl) correct (korrect)”.

Ol clo’s man—a stoop-shouldered individual in a long frock coat, low billycock hat, wearing luxuriant whiskers and unclean fingernails.

Old beau—a fastidious old fellow of the “old school”, fond of women’s society.

Old fashioned—not of today.

Old gold—a dull, brassy, yellow color.

Old man—the head of the house who raises or reduces salaries, but who otherwise is not generally reckoned as having any special value to the business.

Old-man’s frock—a one-button cutaway f. coat, cut rather full in front.

Old silver—s. made to appear old by chemical treatment.

Old thirds—an obsolete English system of tailor’s measurements, invented by a German tailor in the early part of the 19th century.

175Olive—a barrel-shaped fastening device used in connection with loops; a portion of a frog (qv); usually mohair or silk covered; worn principally on uniform overcoats.

Olivauto cloth—proprietary name for a clear-finisht worsted, 14 oz. cloth, made especially with reference to the needs of motorists; is dust proof and waterproof and of a brownish olive-drab shade.

Ombre—weaving term for blended stripes, shading off or into one another, effected by adjustment of warp and filling threads; usually applied to silks.

Omophorion—a sort of broad pallium (qv) worn by the Greek and Russian ministry.

On one’s uppers—shabby genteel.

Once-over—see Ascot, Puff, Waterfall, etc.; a method of tying same.

One-button cutaway—see Fat man’s frock.

One-button sack—see Fat man’s s.

One-way plait—prest flat from either side of the stitching; the reverse of box p.

Ongrowing collar—tailors’ term for waistcoat collars that are continued around the neck like coat collars instead of being sewed down at the shoulder and continuing merely as a band around the back of the neck. O. collars, therefore, are formed of the facing and forepart and top and undercollar parts and may have any kind of peakt or notcht lapel or rever, but are seldom made with the no-seam notch characteristic of ordinary single-breasted waistcoat collars.

O O—“own order”; in tailoring, a memorandum made by cutters who dislike a customer’s insistence upon certain details.

Ooze—suede leather.

Open-face vest—vernacular for evening dress waistcoat.

Open fly—not closed or boxt. See Fly.

Open front—a term usually applied to shirt bosoms made in two parts and joined by buttons or studs.

Open front fold—trade term for folded shirt collars where the standing band is cut away in V shape and the fold rather more so.

Open lap seam—same as Open welt s.

Open shop—the opposit of closed s. (qv); a s., factory or other establishment where workmen may be employed regardless of union or other affiliations.

Open trousers—tailors’ term for t. made for customers who stand with their legs spread apart or open, the inseam being longer than is required for closed t., which see.

Open welt seam—in tailoring, a s. resembling a plait. The two parts of the material are first sewed regularly, after which one 176part, which has been cut wider for the purpose, is basted over to the required size of the welt and sewed at the place of the first seam. Properly used as a finish for the side seams of trousers. See Welt s.

Open-work—trade term for drop stitch ribs or lace work designs in hosiery, etc.

Opening—tailoring term for the amount of space at throat not covered by a coat or vest, allowing display of (more or less) clean linen, betraying one’s taste in neckwear and jewelry, and, according to area, inviting bronchitis or bellyache. Compare Gorge.

Opening—the first step in the process of carding cotton; separating the matted fibers and removing foreign objects.

Opening machine—see Willowing m.

Opera cloak—a cape-like overgarment extending to the knees, having a narrow standing collar, and closed with cord and tassels, worn about 1850 over evening dress; also the Inverness overcoat (qv) is sometimes so called.

Opera glass—a binocular telescope of small size for magnifying the field of view for distant spectators; also the characteristic equipment of baldheaded front row first nighters.

Operator—trade term for machine workmen employed in clothing factories in contradistinction to journeymen tailors who do work by hand.

Operette—proprietary term for an evening dress overcoat, buttoning high at the throat, lined with white silk or satin in front and there combining some of the features of a muffler or dress shirt protector.

Opoponax—a perfume compounded from a gum resin obtained from a species of (Persian) parsnip, or in imitation thereof.

Orarian—a sort of stole worn by ministers of the Greek and Russian churches.

Orarium—same as Stole (qv).

Orby—a single-breasted walking frock coat made without a waist seam, the fore and back parts being entire; the back made without the usual sidebody parts, and having but a center seam terminating in a plain open vent at the waist. (1907.)

Ordinary—see Cotton classification.

Organzine—(1) warp silk made of two singles (qv) twisted together; thrown silk; (2) a fabric made of such silk.

Orris root—good thing for the linen chest, imparting to the contents thereof a delicate violet-like fragrance.

Orthopedic—name applied to a particular shape of last, generally broad-toed, in outline as near as possible to that of the natural foot.

177Osnaburg—(1) coarse cotton shirtings, both plain colored and in small two-color checks, only slightly finisht after weaving, mostly produced in the southern states; (2) originally a coarse variety of linen cloth imported from Osnabruck, Prussia (whence name); used in colonial days for shirts, breeches, jackets, etc.

Ostrich feathers—in men’s wear used for uniform hats, regalia, etc.

Otter—an amphibious animal of various species, yielding a pelt valuable in the manufacture of fur garments; very like seal in texture.

Ottoman—a stout, lustrous silk fabric, of heavier cord than faille.

Ounce—in the trade the thickness or heaviness of cloths are designated by the number of ounces in one yard, as 10 oz., 16 oz., 24 oz., etc.

Out breast—tailor’s abbreviation for outside breast pocket.

Out breast pocket—see Outside b. p.

Outside breast pocket—trade term for the regular b. p. of coats and overcoats, customarily placed on the left side only, and so designated to distinguish from inside b. p.

Outer leaf—see Leaf.

Out of date—old-fashioned; old fogeyish.

Out seam—see Prix s.

Outer garments—broadly, any and all garments except those worn next the skin; more correctly a suit of clothes, overcoats, capes, and the like.

Outer sole—the s. leather in the bottom of shoe coming next to the ground.

Outre—not conforming to conventional usage or fashion; bizarre; extravagant; showy; freakish.

Outing cloth—a cotton fabric of various uses, woven similarly to gingham, but of softer, coarser yarns and well napt on both sides; also called o. flannel, tennis flannel, flannelette, domett, guinea cloth, etc.

Outing flannel—see O. cloth.

Outing shoe—a canvas s. for summer wear.

Outing suit—a light-weight summer or vacation suit, usually of flannel.

Outlet—in tailoring, an allowance made in cutting up cloth (not shown on the paper pattern), for seams, vents, the try-on fitting, alterations, etc.

Outside back—tailoring term for the back or outer lining of the back part of a vest.

Outside flap—a sewed-on f. outside of and over the pocket. Compare In-and-out f.

178Outside shop—in clothes making a shop, usually not on the manufacturer’s premises but away or “outside”, where the help is hired by the contractor, who is practically owner of the shop, altho he may contract to do no work for any but the one concern. See Inside s.

Ovalesque—proprietary name for a dress shirt bosom of unusually large proportion and of oval shape, claimed not to bulge or break when worn.

Over-erect—so straight (sic) as to incline backward.

Over-shirt—an outer or top s.; a working s.

Over-shoulder measure—in tailoring, a measure taken from front of arm scye over the shoulder to center of back at the scye depth (qv).

Oversleeve—a loose fitting, separate s. of almost any material, worn by bookkeepers, clerks, et al., to protect shirt or coat sleeves.

Overalls—loose fitting over-trousers of duck, denim, etc., for working wear.

Overcasting—see Serging and Whipstitch.

Overcheck—a term in weaving for patterns showing one check of different form or color superimposed upon another.

Overcoat—a coat worn over one’s other coat; a top coat; a greatcoat.

Overcoating—any fabric woven specially for overcoats, as covert, kersey, melton, frieze, montagnac, elysian, beaver, vicuna, whipcord, cheviot, chinchilla, Shetland, etc., (qv).

Overedge stitch—an overcasting or selvaging s. performed by machine.

Overcoats—(army) see Army officer’s o.; (navy), see Naval officer’s o. and Naval o.; (revenue service) see Revenue service o.; (marine corps) see Marine corps o.

Overgaiter—a close-fitting covering for ankle and leg, spreading out and embracing the instep, usually of cloth or leather; also called spatterdash and spats.

Overgarment—any outer garment or wrap.

Overplaid—a term in weaving indicating a light plaid over a heavier and smaller underplaid or check, or vice versa; an effect of color disposition.

Oversack—a large, loosely fitting overcoat of the sack or box variety; an ulster (qv).

Overseam—see Round s.

Overshoe—a shoe worn over other shoes, usually of rubber, of various shapes and styles. See also Arctics.

Overworked edges—tailoring term for edges held in too much and forced by the stay tape.

Own goods—cloth brought to a tailor, shirtmaker, etc., to be made up.

179Oxford—see O. mixture, O. shirting, etc.

Oxford bag—an article of hand luggage of considerable capacity, usually with a rounding or sloping top.

Oxford cap—see Mortarboard.

Oxford mixture—in woolen cloth weaving an effect produced by combining two threads of black and white or gray into one yarn in the spinning process, or by blending two shades of raw wool in the carding process, the finisht effect being a cloth of black or dark steel ground, lightly sprinkled or mixt with white. In the lighter shadings frequently called “Cambridge mixture”.

Oxford shirting—a soft, plain-woven cotton fabric having loom-produced checks, stripes, or figures.

Oxford tie—a low shoe, laced and tied at the instep, and by extension any low shoe, as “buttoned oxfords”.

P

Pack basket—a b. of splints or rattan covered with canvas, with shoulder straps; used by hunters, prospectors, et al.

Pack cloth—a rectangular length of waterproof canvas useful to campers, hunters, et al.

Pack harness—an arrangement of leather straps for converting hunters, prospectors, et al., into beasts of burden.

Pad—in tailoring a flat, compact cushion or mattress-shaped implement laid upon the lap-board or any other pressing-board and used in “pressing-off” and giving form and finish to a garment. Its elasticity accommodates it to any inequalities of the garment and therefore the whole surface is reacht by the pressure of the iron and made smoother and solider than it could be without its use. See Looney.

Pad—see Hat p.

Pad—(1) to stuff or build up a garment with wadding; (2) to apparently increase one’s proportions.

Padded—given a false physique.

Padded dress—an obscene way of emphasizing the d. of trousers once current among certain Michigan college boys.

Paddies—pantalets.

Padding—felt, cotton or wool used for giving shape to garments; wadding.

Padding stitches—(tailoring) similar in appearance to zigzag or herringbone basting s.; in making, the needle may or may not go entirely thru one of the pieces of goods, according to the nature 180of the work in hand; also the s. may be held together in close rows or loosely spaced; properly made, these s. aid much in shaping of garments.

Paddock—according to the best authorities this is a single-breasted frock overcoat with sewed-on skirts, tho this form is more popularly known as the “Paletot” (qv), while the “Paddock” is usually shown as a coat with skirted back and one-piece front with a waistline cut partly into same, from which underarm V’s extend and give shapeliness. The two terms are used interchangeably by most American tailors’ journals.

Padisway—an old name for peau de soie.

Page’s livery—short, tight-fitting jacket with one or three rows of buttons, closing at the throat with military collar; trousers without side or back pockets (tho two large watch or waistband pockets are permissible), corded or piped at side seams to match trimming, if any, of coat.

Paisley—a town in Scotland famous for its textil manufactures and especially for a fine class of shawls resembling the finest India shawls; also a name given to the distinctiv “palm” or figure of such shawls.

Pajamarite—proprietary name for a combination sleeping garment resembling pajamas but made in one piece, with certain features of the union suit (undergarment) embodied.

Pajamas—loose cotton or silk sleeping drawers or trousers, fastened around the waist with a draw-string; by extension the term now includes the loose coat or blouse sold with the foregoing. In the East Indies p. are worn by both sexes, both as sleeping and lounging wear.

Paletot—popularly a single-breasted frock overcoat with skirts sewed on at the waistline, but according to the best authorities a coat with a skirted back and a one-piece front into which a waistline is partly cut, extending therefrom being one or two underarm V’s. Compare “Paddock”.

Pall—a large square of cloth thrown over a coffin.

Pall-bearers—friends complaisantly wearing crepe for a few hours prior to finally dumping us into the dirt.

Pallium—an ecclesiastical vestment of the Roman Catholic church worn by the pope, patriarchs and archbishops; it is a band of white woolen webbing, about 3 inches wide, embroidered with black crosses worn around the neck, and from which two narrow bands of same material depend, one falling on the breast and the other over the back.

Palm—that part of a glove covering the inside of the hand.

Panache—variegated.

Panama hat—a h. made from the young, unexpanded leaves of the stemless screwpine (also called jiji japa) specially treated to 181remove the soft part of the leaf, soaked in water until pliable, the hats then being woven by hand in exceedingly moist atmosphere, the very finest h. often requiring six months to weave.

Pancake—the flat cap worn by tars in the grandoldamerican navy.

Pancake heel—a h. of imitation sole leather composed of leather scivings and cement prest to look like sides of sole leather, called “pancake”.

Paneled back—tailoring term for the inside back of a coat made with broad facings of the coat material around seams and edges, and filled in with (panels of) silk or other lining.

Panjam—see Punjum.

Pantalet—a child’s underdrawer.

Pantaloon trousers—the same upward as pantaloons but cut straight to the instep from the calf downward; substantially the same as our modern trousers (qv); when finisht with loops or buttons at the side (bottom) they were called Wellingtons, doubtless from having been first worn by the military. (Early 1900.)

Pantaloonery—a little used trade term for fabrics of which pants or trousers are made. The proper term is “trouserings”.

Pantaloons—close-fitting nethergarments reaching midway between the calf and the ankle, with an opening therein closing with buttons, worn with gaiters, boots or over the stockings only, during the early part of the last century.

Panties—familiar term for (1) children’s knee pants; (2) children’s drawers; and more loosely or jocularly (3) men’s ditto.

Panting—cloth suitable for trousers. See Trousering.

Pantorium—coined name for pressing and cleaning institutions where it is pretended to care for your clothes, usually at a rate per month.

Pants—“gent’s” trousers.

Pants block—see Tailor’s b.

Pants maker—a journeyman tailor who makes trousers his specialty.

Paper cloth—see Xylolin and Wood yarn.

Paper collar—a shirt c. made of paper stamped into a resemblance of linen, formerly used in enormous quantities (the consumption prior to 1883 being estimated at 70,000,000 annually), but now comparativly unknown.

Paper garments—a recent invention. The idea contains the germ of untold possibilities.

Paper sole—derisiv of thin-soled shoes.

Paper yarn—a textil y. made of wood cellulose and more properly known as wood y. (qv). See Xylolin.

Para rubber—wild r. from Brazil and Bolivia; the finest commercial grade.

182Pappoose frame—an Indian baby cradle and perambulator.

Paragon frame—the metal ribs of an umbrella; a proprietary name for ribs of U shape.

Paring-off—in tailoring the process of paring- or trimming off the surplus cloth along the margin of a garment, when the edges are to be finisht raw.

Paring-shears—tailor’s s. or scissors made expressly for paring the edges of garments.

Park coat—a sort of cutaway frock c., worn for riding exclusively, fitting snugly at waist and having extra ample skirts.

Partridge—a hard, variously markt, striated wood used for walking sticks.

Partridge cord—a name sometimes given to mottled corduroy resembling in effect the markings of the partridge.

Paspol—in tailoring, a cloth-bound edge or piping employed as a finish to pockets.

Passe—faded; old-fashioned; worn out; behind the times.

Paste—formerly used to stiffen coats, but not nowadays.

Patch—(1) any ornamental bits of court plaster used on the face as adjuncts to beauty; (2) a mended place in our clothes with reminiscences of our youth or as a badge of indigence.

Patch flap—a pocket f. laid-on outside.

Patch pocket—a p. made of the goods of the garment and patcht or sewed on to the outside thereof, no cutting thru and no lining being required. Also called patcht p. See also Bellows p.

Patchouli—a strong, peculiar oriental perfume, as offensiv to some as it is pleasing to others; once of considerable popularity amongst ladies of definit reputation (which reputation still clings to it), which may account for its masculin popularity.

Patcht welt pocket—a p., the slit or opening of which is cut thru a patcht-on piece of the garment material, which may be of fancy shape, generally so made for extra strength, as in conductors’ coats. (Patched p.)

Patent beaver—a superior quality of beaver cloth with an especially hard finish and fulled to a degree making it practically waterproof; similar to Castor b. (qv).

Patent leather—name synonymously applied to all so-called “shiny” leather; that is, upper leathers that have been treated with a coat of japanning or varnish on one side, giving the leather a very glossy, black, smooth finish.

Patent neckband—general name for shirt n. having a split or pocketed division in the back so that the back collar button does not touch the skin of the wearer because of an interposing layer of cloth.

Patrolmen’s uniform—see Police u.

183Patten—a thick-soled overshoe, or one having a device for raising the foot out of the wet and mud; a clog; a sort of slipper. Term now in disuse. See Overshoe.

Pattern paper—rough-surfaced drafting p. put up in rolls, used by cutters; usually black, dark green or blue; also manilla.

Pauldron—a detachable piece of plate armor for the protection of the shoulders.

Pavilion—the lower pyramid of a diamond. See Brilliant cutting.

Pea coat—a seaman’s jacket. See P. jacket.

Pea jacket—a short, heavy coat of thick, closely woven cloth, as pilot cloth, worn in rough weather; a sailor’s j.

Peacockery—ostentatious display of fine clothes; affectation in attire and manner; distressing vanity.

Peak—visor.

Peakt lapel—having the notch or step cut at an acute angle.

Pearl—the beautiful concretion found in the interior of the shells of many mollusks, resulting in the deposit of nacreous substances around some nucleus usually of foreign origin; the p. oyster of the Indian seas yields the most numerous and finest specimens.

Peascod bellied—referring to stuft doublets.

Peau de soie—a heavy, close-woven, soft finisht, plain colored silk fabric having minute weftwise ribs, the better grades finisht alike on both sides, the cheaper face finisht only.

Peau d’espagne—a perfume having the characteristics of the scent of Spanish leather, whence name.

Pebble goat—a shoe leather having a surface grain achieved by means of machinery.

Peddler—a peripatetic merchant; a street hawker.

Pedometer—a good thing to prove walking lies by.

Peeler—general term for long-stapled cotton grown in the Mississippi valley.

Peepiehole—the little opening in front of a boy’s first pants.

Peg leg—wooden.

Peg-top—trousers cut wide and full around the hips and narrowing sharply down to the ankle.

Pegging jack—a clamp for holding a shoe while it is being pegged.

Pegging machine—a m. for nailing (or pegging) soles to the uppers (of shoes).

Pekin—textil designing term for warpwise alternating stripes of different colors.

Pelage—the coat or covering of a fur mammal.

Pelerine—a long, narrow cape (now in disuse).

184Pelisse—(1) a long outergarment or cloak with openings for the arms, originally of fur or lined with fur; (2) a dragoon’s jacket with shaggy lining.

Pelt—a skin or hide.

Peltry—same thing.

Pen clothes—see Prison uniform.

Pen-knife—originally a pocket k. intended for the making of quill-pens.

Penang lawyer—a cane with a very large round head, common in Penang and on the Malay peninsula.

Pencil curl—hatter’s term for a brim the edge of which is turned over upon itself, forming a cable-like edge of about the thickness of a pencil.

Pencil pocket—a small, narrow p. for pencil, fountain pen, etc.; usually a partition of one of the regular breast pockets of a waistcoat.

Pencil stripe—in weaving, fine stripes of color on a contrasting ground; a hairline or slightly coarser.

Peplum—loosely, a short skirt to a jacket.

Pepper-and-salt—a textil color effect, as of a dark or light ground, sprinkled or dotted with light or dark specks, properly achieved by two-color twisted yarns, usually in combinations of black and white.

Pepperell—a slightly twilled muslin.

Per cent—the fetich of Israel.

Percale—a fine, close, plain-woven cotton fabric, similar to cambric, woven of smooth, round yarns, carefully drest without gloss and usually printed in shirting patterns, tho also solid white and also in printed stripes for garment lining, the fabric being slightly sized in this case; the lower grades not much better than calico.

Percaline—a fine, light-weight cotton lining material.

Perching—the process of inspecting woolen fabrics as taken from the loom and removing knots, burs, and other imperfections preparatory to fulling; holes, if any, being first darned.

Perching—a process in leather manufacture following that of knee staking, the skins being held in a long vise, the operator adjusting the crutch of a long circular knife against his armpit and pressing hard against the flesh side of the skin to remove the last vestige of flesh.

Perfect fit—something you might be ashamed to be seen in.

Perfumery—formerly used to disguise the odors of the unbathed body—and still so used, of course.

Periwig—a formal wig; not such a bundle of vanity as a peruke.

185Perrin’s—trade diminutiv for the fine French kid gloves manufactured by Perrin Freres (lately changed to Perrin et Cie), Paris, of world-wide fame.

Persian lamb—the fur of the young black Persian sheep of Southern Persia, further enhanced in luster by dyeing; one of the most valuable and best wearing furs. Compare Astrakhan and Broadtail.

Perspectiv glass—Briticism for field g.

Peruke—a voluminous and prolix wig.

Perruquier—wig maker; barber; hair dresser.

Peter—slang for watch, especially a repeating watch, as a jeweler might say to a customer comparing time, “How’s your peter?”

Peter pan—a boy’s blouse or shirt; a vogue of the Buster Brown and Fauntleroy virulence.

Petersham—a kind of heavy woolen cloth for overcoats. It has a rough, knotty surface, and is sometimes called “niggerhead”. A very heavy, close-felted variety of this cloth is called “cordington”; the finer, softer kinds, “chinchilla” (qv).

Petticoat—originally an undercoat or waistcoat as worn (1400–1600) under the longer outer coat.

Petticoat breeches—wide, flaring knee b. of colonial sailors.

Petticoat trousers—a kind of kilt formerly worn by seamen in general but latterly principally by fishermen. See Galligaskins.

Phelonion—a white or reddish vestment similar to the Latin chasuble (qv) but reaching only to the waist, worn by lectors and readers in the Greek and Russian churches.

Photograph case—usually a leather, folding, screen-like affair for holding portraits of actresses.

Phylactery—a strip or strips of cowhide parchment inscribed with passages of Scripture and encased in a black calfskin case having thongs for binding it on the forehead or around the left arm in memory of the early history of the Jewish race and of one’s duty to observe the law, or, also, to serve as an amulet.

Picayune—a Spanish coin worth 6¼ cents, current during Civil war times; later applied to the 5-cent piece.

Piccadilly—a fashionable residence street in London, whence many names for articles of masculin attire.

Piccadilly collar—a standing shirt c. with points sharply turned back forming triangles or wings; also called “white wings” and wing c.

Piccadilly toe—a name once given to a sharp-pointed t.—but which, like most shoe names, is now almost forgotten.

Pick—(1) the insertion of a thread of weft; (2) the blow which drives the shuttle thru the warp threads; (3) the speed per minute of a loom; (4) the number of threads countable within a definit space.

186Picker—a machine for opening, cleaning and mixing cotton or wool.

Pickle—see Tan liquor.

Picklock—see Wool.

Picot—an ornamental loopt edging on ribbons, etc.

Piece dye—trade term for cloths dyed after weaving or in the piece, as serges, clays, broadcloths, unfinisht, etc. Compare Skein dyes.

Piece goods—woolens and other textil fabrics sold by the bolt or piece.

Piece goods trade—the jobbing trade. Compare Cutting-up trade and Selling agent.

Piecing-out—in tailoring the act of sewing together added or spliced pieces which are sometimes necessary in facing garments, or in making the crotch or back-waist part of trousers, is called “piecing them out”; also “dog-rabbitting”.

Piffle—(1) the customer’s expressions of his needs and desires; (2) the salesman’s arguments in favor of something else.