PREFACE.

IN "Wild Spain" we endeavour to describe a little-known land from a point of view hitherto almost unoccupied—that of the sportsman-naturalist. Many books have been written on Spain—some very good ones: but recent volumes chiefly confine themselves to the history, antiquities, architecture, &c., of the country, with their authors' impressions of the Spanish people. Such subjects find no place—save incidentally—in the present work, which systematically avoids the beaten track and essays to depict some of the unknown and more remote regions.

During more than twenty years the authors have undertaken sporting expeditions into various parts of Spain—chiefly in Andalucia, but including, at one time or another, nearly all the western provinces from the Mediterranean to Biscay. A love of wild sport has been, perhaps, the leading motive; but the study of natural history has hardly been of secondary importance. In pursuit of these twin objects we have spared neither time nor trouble, spending weeks—sometimes months—at a time, in the sierras and wildernesses of Spain, bivouacing wherever night overtook us, or the chances of sport might dictate, and camping-out on the glorious snow-clad cordilleras.

Our subjects are the wild-life and feræ naturæ of the Peninsula—including in the latter expression, by a slight stretch of the term, the brigand and the gypsy, with remarks on agriculture as cognate and supplementary. As far as convenient, the sequence of chapters follows the change of the seasons, commencing with spring-time. Hence the earlier part of the book is more concerned with natural history—though the pursuit of ibex and bustard may be followed in spring; while the latter half is more exclusively devoted to sport.

Long residence in Spain has afforded opportunities which are not available to the casual traveller. Especially is this the case with sport, of which we have, at times, enjoyed some of the best that Spain affords. But it should be remarked that many of the shooting campaigns herein described have been on private and preserved grounds; and, while we naturally select the more fortunate records, we pass over in silence many a blank day and fruitless effort. Nearly all ground on which large game is found, is preserved, with the exception of remote parts of the sierras, where wild pig and roe may be shot, and those higher mountain-ranges which form the home of ibex and chamois; moreover, while indicating in general terms the distribution of the various games and other animals, we have in many instances avoided naming precise localities.

In describing a foreign land, it is impossible entirely to avoid the use of foreign terms for which, in many cases, no precise equivalents exist in English: but, to minimize this drawback, we append a glossary of all Spanish words used herein. Conversely, lest Spanish readers should misinterpret the title of this book, we have added a translation in the terms España Agreste.

The illustrations consist of reproductions, either from photographs or from rough sketches in pen-and-ink and water-colours by the authors, whose only merit lies in their essaying to represent in their native haunts some of the least-known birds and beasts of Europe, several of which, it is probable, have never before been drawn from the life. If some of these sketches are not as satisfactory as we could have wished, the difficulties under which they were produced may serve as some excuse. At the last moment we have had some of them "translated" in London by Messrs. C. M. Sheldon and A. T. Elwes, and are also indebted to Miss M. E. Crawhall for several sepia-drawings made by her in Spain.

It had been our intention to append a list of the birds of Spain, with their Spanish names and short notes on each species; but this we find would exceed our limits, and moreover the blanks and "missing links" still remain so numerous that we have abandoned—or at least deferred—that part of our programme. This may explain a certain want of continuity or coherence, in an ornithological sense.

We are indebted to Lord Lilford and to Messrs. J. C. Forster and Ralph W. Bankes for several valuable notes and assistance, also to Admiral Sir M. Culme-Seymour for photographs taken in "Wild Spain"; while we cannot sufficiently express our gratitude to Mr. Howard Saunders, who has in the kindest manner gone through the proof-sheets, and whose long experience and intimate knowledge of Spain have been most generously placed within our reach. For any serious mistakes which may remain, the authors must be solely responsible.

December 31st, 1892.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I

PAGE

An Unknown Corner of Europe.

Andalucia and her Mountain-barriers.

i. Introductory 1

ii. Life in the Sierras13

iii. A night at a Posada19

CHAPTER II

A Boar-hunt in the Sierra23

CHAPTER III

The Great Bustard33

CHAPTER IV

Big days with Bustard.

i. Jedilla46

ii. Santo Domingo—an Idyl50

CHAPTER V

Tauromachia.

The Fighting Bull of Spain;

Notes on his history: his breeds and rearing: and his life up to the encierro—i.e., the eve of his death54

CHAPTER VI

The Bætican Wilderness.

Spring-notes of bird-life, natural history and exploration in the marisma

Part i.—April70

CHAPTER VII

The Bætican Wilderness (continued).

Part ii.—May83

CHAPTER VIII

Wild Camels in Europe94

CHAPTER IX

Among the Flamingoes.

Notes on their haunts and habits, and the discovery of their nesting-places102

CHAPTER X

Brigandage in Spain.

Sketches of two Robber-types.

i. Vizco el Borje116

ii. Agua Dulce124

CHAPTER XI

The Spanish Ibex.

Notes on its natural history, haunts, habits and distribution128

CHAPTER XII

Ibex-shooting in Spain.

i. Sierra de Gredos (Old Castile)140

ii. Riscos de Valderejo150

CHAPTER XIII

Ibex-shooting in Spain (continued).

iii. Sierra Bermeja (Mediterranean)157

iv. Nevada and the Alpujarras. Ten days in a snow-cave166

CHAPTER XIV

Trout and Trouting in Spain.

i. Castile, etc.173

ii. Santandér179

CHAPTER XV

Trouting in the Asturias and in Leon183

CHAPTER XVI

Experiences with Eagles.

i. Forest and plain188

CHAPTER XVII

Further Experiences with Eagles and Vultures.

ii. Chiefly relating to the Sierra205

CHAPTER XVIII

On Spanish Agriculture.

i. Cereals, green crops, etc.220

CHAPTER XIX

On Spanish Agriculture (continued).

ii. The olive231

iii. Horse-breeding and live stock233

iv. Supplement236

CHAPTER XX

Bird-life of the Spanish Spring-time.

i. The pinales, or pine-region238

CHAPTER XXI

Bird-life of the Spanish Spring-time (continued).

ii. The cistus-plains and prairies250

CHAPTER XXII

Bird-life of the Spanish Spring-time (continued).

iii. By lake and lagoon266

CHAPTER XXIII

The Spanish Gypsy.

Notes on the history of the "Gitanos"277

CHAPTER XXIV

The Spanish Gypsy of to-day287

CHAPTER XXV

In Search of the Lämmergeyer.

A winter ride in the Sierras293

CHAPTER XXVI

The Home of the Lämmergeyer307

CHAPTER XXVII

Ramon and the two big Rams.

An incident of Ibex-stalking316

CHAPTER XXVIII

The Ibex-hunter's Betrothal320

CHAPTER XXIX

On Viticulture in Spain and Portugal325

CHAPTER XXX

Some further Notes on the Great Bustard.

His natural history and habits338

CHAPTER XXXI

The Little Bustard343

CHAPTER XXXII

A Winter Campaign in Doñana348

CHAPTER XXXIII

Wildfowling in the Wilderness.

i. A wet winter371

CHAPTER XXXIV

Wildfowling in the Wilderness (continued).

ii. A dry season (flight-shooting)384

iii. An Arctic winter392

CHAPTER XXXV

The Stanchion-gun in Spain395

CHAPTER XXXVI

Deer-driving in the Pine-forests.

My first stag405

CHAPTER XXXVII

Winter in the Marshes.

i. Snipe-shooting417

ii. Cranes, storks, and bitterns420

iii. Miscellaneous marsh-birds424

CHAPTER XXXVIII

Deer-stalking and "Still-hunting."

On the Southern plains428

APPENDIX.

PART I.

The Large Game of Spain and Portugal,

With notes on other Spanish Mammalia437

Red Deer437

Fallow Deer438

The Roebuck in Spain439

The Spanish Ibex440

The Chamois441

The Bear442

Wild Boar443

Wolf and Fox444-5

Spanish Lynx446

Smaller beasts447 et seq.

PART II.

Spring-migrants To Spain,

With dates of arrival, etc., in Andalucia450

PART III.

i. Spring-notes in Navarre454

ii. Supplementary notes on birds (Southern Spain)457

GLOSSARY.

INDEX.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PLATE NO. PAGE

i.Map of Spain and Portugal Frontispiece

An Andaluz3

A Granadino4

Basque peasant5

ii.Relics of the Moors—Ruins of the Watch-tower of Melgarejo To face 6

Fair Sevillanas8

A choza: the home of the Andalucian peasant13

iii.Pair of Civil Guards—Jerez To face 14

A water-seller18

iv.Daughters of Andalucia To face 19

Dancers with castanets20

A village posada21

"Furniture"25

Our quarters in the Sierra26

A straight charge (wild boar)30

v. "That old tusker" (wild boar) To face 31

A mule with trappings32

vi. Bustards on the barrens—winter;—a first shade of suspicion To face 33

vii. Watering the cattle—summer-time To face 35

Great Bustard—echando la rueda39

viii. Bustard-driving—the pack come "well in" To face 40

Great Bustards—an April dawn43

ix. " " —among the spring-corn To face 48

The Bustard-shooter—triumph!51

x. Ancient draw-well on the plains To face 52

xi. Bulls on the plains To face 57

xii. The morn of the Fight—Bulls in the toril (Miura's breed) To face 61

xiii. The Encierro To face 65

A Bull-fighter66

A Matador68

Fishing-boat on the Guadalquivir78

Flamingoes74, 102 and 115

Avocets77, 82 and 87

Stilts70, 86 and 92

xiv. Booted Eagle To face 81

xv. Pintailed Sand-Grouse To face 85

Grey Plovers—summer-plumage89

xvi. The Spanish Wild Camels—our first sight of a couple in the marisma To face 94

xvii. Wild Camels—seen through the binoculars To face 98

Flamingoes on feed104

A right-and-left at Flamingoes106

Spanish Lynx107

A toilet in the wilderness (Flamingoes)109

Flamingoes and nests111

xviii. Flamingoes on their nests To face 112

Civil Guards—a sketch from life121

Draw-well at the Zumajo, near Jerez127

Spanish Ibex, Old Ram—Sierra de Gredos131

—— —— —— Sierra Nevada133, 135, and 170

xix. On the crags of Almanzór (Ibex) To face 137

Old olive-trees near Talavera139

xx. Ibex-hunting—a sketch in the Sierra de Gredos To face 141

Our first old Ram145

xxi. Ibex-hunting—the two old Rams at the "Cannon-Rock" To face 148

The peaks of Gredos149

xxii. Our camp on the Riscos de Valderejo To face 152

Ibex-hunters of Gredos—a sketch by the camp-fire154

Ibex, female—Riscos de Valderejo155

—— —— Bermeja158

xxiii. Ibex-hunting—a sketch in the Sierra Bermeja To face 161

Forest Ibex, old Ram—Bermeja164

Trout175, 182, and 186

Chamois179 and 442

Spanish Imperial Eagle190, 198, and 219

—— —— (Spotted stage)193

—— —— The Eagle's swoop262

Tawny Eagle195

Black Vulture201 and 202

At roost—Serpent-Eagles204

xxiv. A Vulture's banquet To face 206

Griffon Vulture and nest—Puerta de Palomas208

Strange neighbours (Vultures and Storks)209

xxv. "Where the carcase is" To face 213

Bonelli's Eagle (adult)217 and 383

xxvi. Ploughing with oxen To face 221

Wooden ploughshare224

xxvii. The harvest-field To face 225

xxviii. Threshing corn with mares To face 226

xxix. Winnowing To face 228

"Waiting for death" (old olive-trees)232

xxx. Kites and Marsh-Harriers To face 242

xxxi. Sand-dunes and Corrales of Doñana To face 245

Hoopoes248

A serenade (Red-leg Partridge)251

Azure-winged Magpies258

Eyed Lizard and Serpent-Eagle260

Black Stork265

xxxii. Mallards and Ferruginous Ducks—Alamillo To face 268

xxxiii. White-fronted Ducks—Santolalla To face 270

Buff-backed Heron83 and 272

Marsh-Harrier—very old male274

Summer evening—Owls and Moths276

xxxiv. Dancers at Granada—the Bolero To face 289

Gypsy lad290

Gypsy dance292

Lämmergeyer—a first impression295

Dance and guitar297

Griffon Vulture (a sketch from life)303

"Roses in Spain"306

xxxv. Lämmergeyer—a sketch from life in the Sierra Bermeja To face 309

Our quarters at Guentar del Rio312

Ibex-head—Sierra de Gredos319

xxxvi. Vineyard and gateway To face 325

Vines in March (Jerez)326

xxxvii. In a Jerez Bodega To face 328

xxxviii. Irrigation by the noria, or water-wheel To face 334

A vineyard at Jerez336

Great Bustards337 and 340

Little Bustards—May345

xxxix. A Spanish jungle—The Angosturas To face 348

Fishing-boats349

xl. Palacio de Doñana To face 350

xli. Breakfast-time—Doñana To face 352

A royal head—Doñana354

Dead Lynx355

Group of forest-guards357

Pannier-pony and game358

Spanish Red Deer—a mountain-head from Morena360 and 430

—— a stag of thirteen points363

xlii. Spanish wildfowlers approaching duck with cabresto ponies To face 365

xliii. A shot in the open (Red Deer) To face 367

Wild Boar—an old tusker368

xliv. Salavar—a sketch in a Spanish Mancha To face 369

xlv. Wildfowling with cabrestos—

—— —— No. 1. The approach To face 372

xlvi. —— —— No. 2. The shot To face 374

xliii. xlviii. —— —— No. 3. The result To face 381

"Anseres son!"377

Greylag Geese flighting—daybreak378

xlii. Grey Geese and Wigeon—midday To face 378

Marsh-Harrier (young)380

xlix. "The farewell shot" To face 382

Mallards387

Grey Geese390 and 391

l. Redshanks (101 and) To face 393

Stilts396 and 404

Little Gull and Tern398

li."A hundred at a shot—now or never!" To face 400

"The Biter and the Bit" (Harrier and Teal)401

lii.La Marismilla—a shooting morning To face 405

Spanish guns411

"The eleven-pointer" (Red Deer)413

A fifteen-pointer (Red Deer)414

"Dropped in his tracks" (Wild Boar)416

Stork's nest—The Banderas, Seville422

—— —— on straw-stack459

Spanish Lynx436

Spanish Ibex—Five-year-old Rams440