HERE BEGINS MY NORTHERN JOURNEY IN MAY 1697 (continued 5)

They ffancy many Resemblances in the Rocks, as in one place an organ and in another 2 little Babys and in another part a head w^ch they Call the porters head and another a 203shape like a dog. They phancy one of y^e Rocks resembles a woman w^th a great belly w^ch the Country people Call the witch w^ch made this Cavity under ground for her Enchantments. The rocks are Glistering and shine Like diamonds and some you Climbe over where one meetes w^th y^e Congealed Drops of water just Like jceicles hanging down. Some of the stone is white Like alabaster and Glisters Like mettle. You walke for y^e most part in y^e Large spaces Called y^e Roomes on a sandy floore, the Roofe so Lofty one Can scarce discern the top and Carry’s a Great Eccho, soe that takeing up a great stone as much as a man Can heave up to his head and letting it fall gives a report Like a Cannon w^ch they frequently trye and Call y^e Shooteing y^e Cannons. At y^e farther End you Come to a water Call’d y^e well, its of a greate depth and Compass tho’ by the Light of y^e Candles you may discern the Rock Encompassing it as a wall round. These hollows are generally very Cold and damp by reason of y^e waters distilling Continually w^ch is very Cold, as jce almost when I put my hand into y^e Cistern. These Roads are full of hills, and those some of them high Ridge of hills w^ch does discover a vast prospect all wayes, behind me I saw a Great valley full of jnclosures and Lessar hills by which you ascend these heights, w^ch are all very fruitfull and woody. Alsoe I Could see the Severn when Encreased to its breadth of 7 mile over, and there it Disembogues into ye sea; then it gave me a prospect forward of as Large a vale replenish’d w^th fruitefull hills and trees and good Ground, thence I Could discern Glassenbury tower; this was Maiden Hill just beyond ye Little town of same name and soe by degrees descending from a higher to a Lower hill w^ch had its ascents as well as its descents w^ch makes y^e miles seem and are Indeed Long tracts of ground.

From Ocley Hole I went to Wells w^ch was on an Even ground one mile farther, this Wells is what must be Reckoned halfe a Citty this and y^e Bath makeing up but one Bishops See. Here are two Churches w^th y^e Cathedrall. Y^e Cathedrall has y^e greatest Curiosity for Carv’d work in stone, the West front is full of all sorts of ffigures, y^e 12 204apostles, y^e K and Q w^th angells and figures of all forms, as thick one to another as Can be, and soe almost all round y^e Church.

The assizes was in the town w^ch filled it Like a faire, and Little stands for selling things was in all the streetes. There I saw y^e town hall. The streetes are well pitch’d, and a Large market place and shambles. The Bishops pallace is in a park moated round, nothing worth notice in it. S^t Andrews well w^ch gives name to the town Bubbles up so quick a spring and becomes the head of two Little rivers w^ch Encreases a Little way off into good rivers. Thence I went to Glasenbury 4 miles, a pretty Levell way till just you Come to the town, then I ascended a stony hill and went just by the tower w^ch is on a green Round riseing ground. There is only a Little tower remaines Like a Beacon, it had Bells formerly in it and some superstition observ’d there, but now its broken down on one side. From this I descended a very steep stony way into the town; Glasenbury tho’ in ancient tymes was a Renowned place where was founded the first monastery, its now a Ragged poor place and the abbey has only the Kitchen remaining in it w^ch is a distinct Building, round like a pigeon house all stone. The walls of y^e abbey here and there appeares and some Little places and y^e Cellar or vault w^ch if they Cast a stone into the place it gives a great Echo, and y^e Country people says its y^e Devil set there on a tun of money w^ch makes y^e noise Least they should take it away from him. There is the holly thorn growing on a Chimney, this the superstitious Covet much and have gott some of it for their gardens and soe have almost quite spoiled it, w^ch did grow quite round a Chimney tunnell in the stone. Here is a very pretty Church a good tower well Carv’d all stone 160 stepps up. Walking in the tower I Could have a prospect of the whole place w^ch appeared very Ragged and decayed. The Church is neate, there is the Effigee of the abbot on a tombstone Carved all about w^th Eschuteons of a Camell, and round it an jnscription or motto in old Latin and an old Caracter. It was a phancy of his Stewards who was a very faithfull Dilligent 205servant, and as he made use of those Creatures in his masters service y^t were strong and Industrious so y^e motto described his services under that resemblance. The Effigee was very Curious and w^th rings on the fingers, but in Monmouths tyme the soldiers defaced it much.

From thence to Taunton 16 miles through many small places and scattering houses, through Lanes full of stones and by the Great raines just before full of wet and Dirt. I passed over a Large Common or bottom of Deep black Land which is bad for the Rider but good for the abider as the proverb is; this was 2 or 3 mile long and pass’d and repass’d a river as it twin’d about at Least ten tymes over stone bridges. This river Comes from Bridge water 7 mile, the tyde Comes up beyond Bridge water, Even within 3 mile of Taunton its flowed by the tyde w^ch brings up the Barges w^th Coale to this place, after having pass’d a Large Common w^ch on Either hand Leads a great waye, good rich Land w^th ditches and willow trees all for feeding Cattle, and here at this Little place where the boates unlade the Coale y^e packhorses Comes and takes it in sacks and so Carryes it to y^e places all about. This is y^e sea Coale brought from Bristole, the horses Carry 2 Bushell at a tyme w^ch at the place Cost 18^d and when its brought to Taunton Cost 2 shillings. The roads were full of these Carryers going and returning.

Taunton is a Large town haveing houses of all sorts of buildings both brick and stone, but mostly timber and plaister, its a very neate place and Looks substantial as a place of good trade. You meete all sorts of Country women wrapp’d up in the mantles Called West Country rockets, a Large mantle doubled together of a sort of serge, some are Linsywolsey and a deep fringe or ffag at the Lower End, these hang down some to their feete some only just below y^e wast, in the summer they are all in white garments of this sort, in the winter they are in Red ones. I Call them garments because they never go out w^th out them and this is the universal ffashion in Sommerset and Devonshire and Cornwall. Here is a good Market Cross well Carv’d and a Large Market house on Pillars for the Corn. 206I was in the Largest Church, it was mending, it was pretty Large, the alter stood table wayes in the middle of the Chancell, there was one good stone Statue stood in the wall, the Effigee was very tall in a Ruff and Long Black dress Like some Religious w^th his Gloves and book in his hand. There were severall Little monuments with Inscriptions Round them, they have Encompass’d the Church yard with a new Brick wall and handsom Iron gates, there is a Large space Called the Castle yard and some remaines of the Castle walls and Buildings w^ch is fitted up for a good dwelling house. From thence I went to Wellington, they Call it but 5 mile but its a Long 7 tho’ the way was pretty good; this is a Little Market town. Thence to Culimton 13 mile more, but Indeed these were very long Miles, y^e hostler at Tanton did say tho’ they were reckon’d but 16 miles it really was a good 20 miles and I am much of that mind. I mostly pass’d through Lanes, I entred Into Devonshire 5 mile off from Wellington, just on a high ridge of hills w^ch discovers a vast prospect on Each side full of Inclosures and Lesser hills w^ch is the Description of most part of the West. You Could see Large tracts of grounds full of Enclosures good Grass and Corn beset with quicksetts and hedge rows, and these Lesser hills w^ch are scarce perceivable on y^e Ridge of the uppermost, yet the Least of them have a steep ascent and descent to pass them. Culimton is a good Little market town, and market Cross and another set on stone pillars, such a one was at Wellington but on Brick work pillars. Here was a Large meeteing of neer 4 or 500 people, they have a very good minister but a young man, I was glad to see soe many tho’ they were but of the meaner sort, for Indeed its the poor Receive the Gospell and there are in most of the market towns in the West very good meeteings. This Little place was one Continued Long streete but few houses y^t struck out of the streete. From thence 10 mile to Exetter, up hills and down as before, till one attaines those uppermost Ridges of all w^ch discovers the whole valley, then you sometymes goe a mile or two on a Down till the Brow of the hill begins in a Descent on the other side. This Citty appears to view 2 207mile distant from one of those heights, and also the River Ex w^ch runs to Topshum where y^e shipps Comes up to the Barre; this is 7 mile by water from w^ch they are attempting to make navigeable to the town, which will be of Mighty advantage to have shipps Come up Close to the town to take in their Serges w^ch now they are forced to send to Topshum on horses by Land, w^ch is about 4 mile by Land. They had just agreed w^th a man that was to accomplish this work for w^ch they were to give 5 or 6000^£, who had made a beginning on it.

Exeter is a town very well built, the streets are well pitch’d, spacious noble streetes, and a vast trade is Carryed on, as Norwitch is for Coapes Callamanco and damaske, soe this is for serges. There is an Increadible quantety of them made and sold in the town. There market day is Fryday which supplys with all things Like a faire almost; the markets for meate, fowle, ffish, garden things and the Dairy produce takes up 3 whole streetes besides the Large Market house set on stone pillars, w^ch runs a great Length on w^ch they Lay their packs of serges. Just by it is another walke w^th in pillars w^ch is for the yarne, the whole town and Country is Employ’d for at Least 20 mile round in spinning, weaveing, dressing and scouring, fulling and Drying of the serges. It turns the most money in a weeke of any thing in England. One weeke with another there is 10000 pound paid in ready money, Sometymes 15000 pound. The weavers brings in their serges and must have their money w^ch they Employ to provide them yarne to goe to work againe. There is alsoe a square Court with Penthouses round where the Malters are w^th Mault and oat meal, but the serge is the Chief manufacture. There is a prodigious quantety of their serges they never bring into the market but are in hired roomes w^ch are noted for it, for it would be impossible to have it altogether. The Carryers I met going w^th it, as thick, all Entring into town w^th their Loaded horses, they bring them all just from the Loome and soe they are put into the ffulling-mills, but first they will Clean and Scour their roomes with them, w^ch by the way gives noe pleasing perfume to a roome, the oyle and grease, and I 208should think it would Rather foull a roome than Cleanse it because of the oyles, but I perceive its otherwise Esteemed by them w^ch will send to their acquaintances y^t are tuckers the dayes the serges Comes in for a Rowle to Clean their house—this I was an Eye witness of. Then they Lay them in soack in vrine, then they soape them and soe put them into the ffulling-mills and soe worke them in the mills drye till they are thick enough then they turne water into them and so scower them. Y^e mill does draw out and gather in y^e serges, its a pretty divertion to see it, a sort of huge notch’d timbers Like great teethe;—one would thinke it should Injure the serges but it does not. Y^e mills draws in w^th such a great violence that if one stands neere it and it Catch a bitt of your Garments it would be ready to draw in y^e person even in a trice. When they are thus scour’d they drye them in racks strained out w^ch are as thick set one by another as will permitt y^e dresses to pass between, and huge Large fields occupy’d this way almost all round the town w^ch is to the river side; then when drye they pick out all knots then fold them w^th a paper between Every fold and so sett them on an jron plaite and screw down y^e press on them w^ch has another jron plaite on the top under w^ch is a furnace of fire of Coales, this is the hott press; then they fold them Exceeding Exact and then press them in a Cold press, some they dye but the most are sent up for London white.

I saw the severall ffatts they were a Dying in of black, yellow, blew and Green w^ch two Last Coullours are dipp’d in the same fatt, that w^ch makes it differ is what they were dipp’d in before w^ch makes them Either green or blew; they hang the Serges on a great beame or Great pole on the top of y^e fatt and so keep turning it from one to another—as one turns it off into the ffatt y^e other Rowles it out of it, soe they do it backwards and forwards till its tinged deep Enough of the Coullour. Their ffurnace that keepes their dye panns boyling is all under that roome made of Coale ffires. There was in a roome by itself a ffatt for the Scarlet that being a very Changeable dye noe waste must be allow’d in that, Indeed I think they make as fine a Coullour as their bowdies are in London.

209 These Rolers I spake of two men does Continually role on and off y^e pieces of serge till Dipp’d Enough, the length of these pieces are or should hold out 26 yards. This Citty does Exceedingly resemble London for besides these buildings I mention’d for y^e severall Markets, there is an Exchange full of shopps Like our Exchanges are, only its but one walke along as was the Exchange at Salisbury house in the Strand; there is also a very Large space Railed in just by the Cathedrall with walks round it w^ch is Called the Exchange for Merchants, that Constantly meete twice a day just as they do in London. There are 17 Churches in the Citty and 4 in the subburbs, there is some remaines of the Castle walls, they make use of the roomes w^ch are inside for y^e assizes, there is the two Barrs besides being Large rooms w^th seates and places Convenient and jury roome, here is a Large walke at y^e Entrance between Rowes of Pillars, there is besides this just at y^e market place a Guild hall the Entrance of w^ch is a Large place set on stone Pillars, beyond w^ch are y^e roomes for the session or any town affaires to be adjusted. Behind this building there is a vast Cistern w^ch holds upwards of 600 hodsheads of water which supplyes by pipes the whole Citty; this Cistern is replenished from the river w^ch is on purpose turned into a Little Channell by it self to turn the mill, and ffills the Engine that Casts y^e water into the truncks w^ch Conveys it to this Cistern. The water Engine is Like those at Islington and at Darby as I have seen, and is what now they make use of in Diverse places Either to supply them w^th water or to draine a marsh or overplus of water. The river X is a fine streame, they have made severall bayes or wires above the Bridge w^ch Casts y^e water into many Channells for the Conveniencys of turning all their mills, by w^ch meanes they have Composed a Little jsland, for at the End it againe returns into its own united Channell. Those wires makes great falls into y^e water, it Comes w^th great violence; here they Catch the Salmon as they Leap w^th speares, the first of these Bayes is a very great one, there is one below the bridge w^ch must be taken away when the navigation is Compleate for they will need 210all their water together to fill it to a Depth to Carry the shipps for just by the Bridge is the Key design’d, or y^t w^ch now is already they will Enlarge to that place. Just by this key is the Custome house, an open space below w^th rows of pillars w^ch they Lay in goods just as its unladen out of the shipps in Case of wet. Just by are Severall Little roomes for Land waiters &c, then you ascend up a handsome pair of staires into a Large roome full of Desks and Little partitions for the writers and accountants, it was full of books and files of paper. By it are two other Roomes w^ch are used in the same way when there is a great deale of Bussiness. There are severall good Conduites to Supply y^e Citty w^th water besides that Cistern, there is alsoe a very fine market Cross.

The Cathedrall at Exetter is preserv’d in its outside adornments beyond most I have seen, there remaining more of y^e fine Carv’d worke in stone, the ffigures and nitches full and in proportion, tho’ Indeed I Cannot say it has that great Curiosity of work and variety as the great Church at Wells. Its a Lofty building in y^e Inside, the Largest pair of organs^[1] I have Ever seen w^th fine Carving of wood w^ch runs up a Great height, and made a magnificent appearance. The Quire is very neate, but y^e Bishops seate or throne was Exceeding and very high and y^e Carving very fine and took up a Great Compass full of all variety of ffigures, something Like the worke over y^e arch Bishops throne in S^t Pauls, London, but this was Larger if not so Curious. There was severall good monuments and Effigies of Bishops; there was one of a judge and his Lady that was very Curious, their Garments Embroyder’d all marble and Gilt and painted. There was a very Large good Library in w^ch was a press that had an anatomy of a woman. Y^e tower is 167 steps up on which I had a view of y^e whole town w^ch is Generally well built. I saw y^e Bishops pallace and Garden, there is a long walke as well as broad, Enclosed w^th rows of Lofty trees which made it shady and very pleasant, w^ch went along by the Ditch and banck on w^ch 211the town wall stands. There are 5 gates to y^e town, there is alsoe another Long walke within shady trees on y^e other side of the town, w^ch Leads to the Grounds where the drying frames are set up for the serges.

Ffrom thence I pass’d the Bridge aCross the River Ex to Chedly w^ch was 9 mile, mostly Lanes and a Continual going up hill and down, some of them pretty steep hills and all these Lesser hills as I have observ’d rises higher and higher till it advances you upon the high Ridge w^ch discovers to view the Great valleys below full of those Lesser hills and jnclosures w^th quicksett hedges and trees and Rich Land, but the Roads are not to be seen being all along in Lanes Cover’d over with y^e shelter of the hedges and trees. Then when I was on y^e top hill I went 3 or 4 miles on an open down w^ch brought me to the Edge of another such a Ridge, w^ch was by some steps to be descended as it was gained by y^e Lesser hills one below another till I Came to y^e bottom, and then I had about 2 or 3 mile along on a plaine or Common w^ch for the most part are a Little moorish by reason of their receiving the water that draines from the severall Great hills on Either side, and so then I am to rise up another such a Range of hills, and as neer as I Could Compute in my Rideing it was 6 or 7 miles between one high Ridge of hills to that over against it, whereas were there a Bridge over from one top to the other it Could not be 2 mile distant; but this does give them y^e advantage of severall acres of Land by reason of the many hills w^ch if drawn out on plaines as in some other parts would appear much vaster tracts of Land. On these hills as I said one Can discern Little besides inclosures hedges and trees, rarely Can see houses unless you are just descending to them, they allwayes are placed in holes as it were and you have a precipice to go down to Come at them. Y^e Lanes are full of stones and dirt for y^e most part because they are so Close the sun and wind Cannot Come at them, soe that in many places you travell on Causeys w^ch are uneven also for want of a Continued repaire.

From Chedly to Ashburton is 11 mile more, in all 20 mile from Exeter, the Roads being much the same as 212before. This Ashburton is a poor Little town—bad was the best Inn. Its a market town and here are a Great many descenters and those of the most Considerable persons in the town; there was a presbiterian, an anabaptist, and quakers meeteing. Thence I went for Plymouth 24 long miles, and here the Roades Contract and y^e Lanes are exceeding narrow and so Cover’d up you Can see Little about; an army Might be marching undiscover’d by any body, for when you are on those heights that shews a vast Country about you Cannot see one Road. The wayes now become so difficult y^t one Could scarcely pass by Each other, Even y^e single horses, and so Dirty in many places, and just a track for one horses feete, and the Banks on Either side so neer, and were they not well secured and mended w^th stones stuck Close Like a Drye wall Everywhere when they discover the Bancks to Breake and molder down, which Else would be in Danger of swallowing up the way quite; for on these bancks (w^ch are some of them naturall Rocks and quarrys, others mended w^th such stone or slate stuck Edgewayes to secure them) for the quicksetts and trees that grow on these Bancks Loosen the mold and so makes it molder downe sometymes. I pass’d through severall Little places and over some stone Bridges. Y^e waters are pretty broad soe these are 4 or 5 arches most Bridges, all stone. The running of y^e waters is w^th a huge Rushing by reason of y^e stones w^ch Lye in the water, some of them Great rocks w^ch gives some Interruption to y^e Current w^ch finding another way Either by its sides or mounting over part of it Causes y^e frothing of y^e water and y^e noise—the rivers being full of stones bigger or Less. About 4 or 5 mile from ashburton I Came to a Little place Called Dean and at y^e End of it ascended a very steep hill, all rock almost; and so it was Like so many steps up, this is Called Dean Clapperhill, it was an untoward place but not soe fformidable to me as the people of y^e place where I Lay described it, haveing gone much worse hills in the North. All along on the road where the Lanes are a Little broader you ride by rowes of trees on Each side, set and kept Exactly Even and Cut, y^e tops being for shade and beauty 213and they in exact forme as if a Grove to some house. At first I thought it was neer some houses till the frequency and Length proved the Contrary, for there are very few if any houses neare the Road, unless the Little villages you passe through. This Country being almost full of stone the streetes and roades too have a naturall sort of paveing or Pitching tho’ uneven. All their Carriages are here on y^e Backs of horses, w^th sort of hookes Like yoakes stands upon Each side of a good height, w^ch are the Receptacles of their goods Either wood, ffurse or Lime or Coale or Corn or hay or straw or what Else they Convey from place to place, and I Cannot see how two such horses Can pass Each other or Indeed in some places how any horse Can pass by Each other, and yet these are the roads y^t are all here abouts. Some Little Corners may jutt out that one may a Little get out of y^e way of Each other, but this but seldom. Two mile from Plymouth we Come to y^e river Plym just by a Little town all built of stone and y^e tyleing is all flatt w^ch with y^e Lime its Cemented, w^ch makes it Look white Like snow, and in the sun shineing on the slatt it Glisters.

Here I Came in sight on y^e Right hand of a very Large house built all with this sort of stone w^ch is a sort of marble. Even all quaryes are, and some ffine marble. This house Look’d very finely in a thicket of trees Like a Grove and was on the side of a hill and Led just down to the head of y^e river Plym w^ch is fill’d with y^e tyde from the sea, and here I Cross’d it on a stone bridge. Soe I Rode 2 miles mostly by the river w^ch encreases and is a fine broad streame and at y^e town w^ch is its mouth it falls into the sea. The sea here runs into severall Creekes, one place it runs up to y^e Dock and Milbrook, another arm of y^e sea goes up to Saltash and Port Eliot.

Plymouth is 2 Parishes Called y^e old town and y^e new, the houses all built of this marble and y^e Slatt at the top Lookes Like Lead and glisters in the sun. There are noe great houses in the town, the streetes are good and Clean, there is a great many tho’ some are but narrow, they are mostly inhabitted w^th seamen and those w^ch have affaires on y^e sea, for here up to the town there is a Depth of water for 214shipps of y^e first Rate to Ride. Its Great sea and Dangerous by reason of y^e severall poynts of Land between w^ch the sea runs up a Great way, and there are severall Little jslands alsoe all w^ch beares the severall tydes hard one against y^e other. There are two keyes, the one is a broad space w^ch Leads you up into the broad streete and is used in manner of an exchange for the merchants meeteing, for in this streete alsoe is a fine stone Crosse and alsoe a long market house set on stone Pillars. There are severall good Cunduits to Convey the water to the town w^ch Conveyance y^e famous S^r Ffrancis Drake (w^ch did encompass y^e world in Queen Elizabeths dayes and Landed safe at Plymouth) he gave this to y^e town. There are two Churches in the town but nothing fine. I was in y^e best and saw only King Charles the firsts Picture at Length at prayer just as its Cut on the frontispiece of the jnenicum. This picture was Drawn and given the Church when he was in his troubles, for some piece of service shewn him. The alter stands in the Chancell or Railed place, but it stands table wise the Length and not up against the wall. The ffont was of marble and Indeed soe is all buildings here for their stone is all a sort of Marble, some Coarser some finer. There are 4 Large meetings for the descenters in the town takeing in the Quakers and anabaptists.

The mouth of y^e river just at y^e town is a very good Harbour for Shipps, the Dockyards are about 2 mile from the town—by boate you goe to it y^e nearest way—its one of y^e best in England. A Great many good shipps built there, and the Great Depth of water w^ch Comes up to it tho’ it runs for 2 mile between y^e Land, w^ch also shelters y^e shipps. There is a great deale of Buildings on the Dock, a very good house for the Masters and severall Lesser ones, and house for their Cordage and makeing Ropes, and all sorts of things required in building or Refitting ships, it Lookes Like a Little town. The Buildings are so many and all of marble w^th ffine slate on y^e Rooffs and at a Little Distance it makes all the houses shew as if they were Cover’d w^th snow and Glisters in y^e sunn w^ch adds to their beauty. Y^e ffine and only thing in 215Plymouth town is the Cittadell or Castle w^ch stands very high above the town, the walls and battlements round it w^th all their Works and Plattforms are in very good repaire and Lookes nobly, all marble full of towers w^th stone Balls on the top and Gilt on the top; the Entrance being by an ascent up a hill Looks very noble over 2 drawbridges and Gates, w^ch are Marble as is the whole, Well Carv’d, the Gate w^th armory and statues all Gilt and on the top 7 Gold balls. Ye buildings within are very neate, a Large appartment for the Governour, w^th others that are Less for y^e severall officers. There is a Long building alsoe w^ch is y^e arsnell for y^e arms and amunition, and just by it a round building well secured w^ch was for the powder round the works in the Plattform for the Gunns w^ch are well mounted and very well kept. Walking round I had the view of all the town and alsoe part off y^e Main Ocean in w^ch are some jslands. There is S^t Nicholas jsland w^th a ffort in it, there it was Harry Martin one of y^e Kings judges was banished Dureing Life. There you Can just Discover a Light house w^ch is building on a meer Rock in the middle of y^e sea, this is 7 Leagues off, it will be of Great advantage for y^e Guide of y^e shipps y^t pass that way. From this you have a Good refflection on y^e Great Care and provision y^e wise God makes for all persons and things in his Creation, that there should be in some places where there is any Difficulty rocks Even in the midst of y^e deep w^ch Can be made use of for a Constant Guide and mark for the passengers on their voyages, but the Earth is full of y^e goodness of y^e Lord and soe is this Great sea wherein are jnumerable beings Created and preserv’d by y^e same almighty hand Whose is the Earth and all things there in, he is Lord of all. From the plattform I Could see y^e Dock and also just ag^st it I saw mount EdgeComb a seate of S^r Richard EdgComes, it stands on the side of a hill all bedeck’d w^th woods w^ch are Divided into several Rowes of trees in walks, the house being all of this white marble. Its built round a Court so the four sides are alike, at y^e Corners of it are towers w^ch w^th y^e Lanthorne or Cupilow in the middle Lookes well, the house is not very Lofty nor the windows high but it Looked Like a very 216uniforme neate building and pretty Large. There is a Long Walke from one part of y^e front down to y^e waterside, w^ch is on a descent guarded w^th shady Rowes of trees, there is a fine terrass walled in, at y^e water side is open gates in y^e middle and a sumer house at Each End, from whence a wall is Drawn Round the house and Gardens and a Large parck, the wall of which I Rode by a good while; so y^t altogether and its scituation makes it Esteemed by me the finest seate I have seen and might be more Rightly named mount pleasant. From Plymouth I went 1 mile to Cribly Fferry w^ch is a very hazardous passage by reason of 3 tydes meeting. Had I known y^e Danger before, I should not have been very willing to have gone it, not but this is y^e Constant way all people goe, and saved severall miles rideings, I was at Least an hour going over, it was about a mile but Indeed in some places notwithstanding there was 5 men Row’d and I sett my own men to Row alsoe I do believe we made not a step of way for almost a quarter of an hour, but blessed be God I Came safely over; but those fferry boates are soe wet and then the sea and wind is allwayes Cold to be upon, that I never faile to Catch Cold in a fferry boate as I did this day haveing 2 more fferrys to Cross tho’ none soe bad or halfe soe Long as this. Thence to Milbrooke 2 mile and went all along by the water and had the full view of ye Dock yards. Here I entred into Cornwall and soe passed over many very steep stony hills, tho’ here I had some 2 or 3 miles of Exceeding good way on the downs, and then I Came to y^e steep precipices—Great Rocky hills—ever and anon I Came down to the sea and Rode by its side on the sand, then mounted up againe on y^e hills w^ch Carryed me along Mostly in sight of y^e Southsea. Sometymes I was in Lanes full of Rowes of trees and then I Came down a very steep stony hill to Lonn 13 mile, and here I Crossed a Little arme of y^e sea on a Bridge of 14 arches. This is a pretty bigg seaport, a Great many Little houses all of stone, and steep hill much worse and 3 tymes as Long as Dean Clapper hill, and soe I continued up and down hill. Here Indeed I met w^th more jnclosed Ground and soe had more Lanes and a Deeper Clay Road w^ch by 217the raine y^e night before had made it very Dirty and full of water in many places, in the Road there are many holes and sloughs where Ever there is Clay Ground, and when by raines they are filled with water its difficult to shun Danger; here my horse was quite down in one of these holes full of water but by y^e good hand of God’s providence w^ch has allwayes been w^th me Even a present help in tyme of need, for giving him a good strap he fflounc’d up againe tho’ he had gotten quite down his head and all, yet did retrieve his ffeete and gott Cleer off y^e place w^th me on his Back. Soe I Came to Hoile 8 mile more, they are very Long miles y^e ffarther West but you have y^e pleasure of Rideing as if in a Grove in most places, y^e Regular Rowes of trees on Each side y^e Roade as if it were an Entrance into some gentlemans Ground to his house. I fferryed over againe Cross an arme of y^e sea, here it was not broad but Exceeding deep. This is y^e Southsea w^ch runs into many Little Creekes for severall miles into y^e Land w^ch is all y^e rivers they have. I observed this to be exceeding salt and as green as ever I saw y^e sea when I have been a League or two out from y^e Land, w^ch shews it must be very deep and Great tides. This Hoile is a narrow stony town, y^e streetes very Close, and as I descended a Great steep into y^e town, soe I ascended one up a stony Long hill farre worse and full of shelves and Rocks and 3 tymes as Long as Dean Clapperhill, w^ch I Name because when I was there they would have frighted me with its terribleness as y^e most inaccessible place as Ever was and none Like it, and my opinion is y^t it was but one or two steps, to other places forty steps and them w^th more hazard than this of Dean Clapper. Well, to pass on, I went over some Little heath Ground but mostly Lanes, and those stony and Dirty, 3 mile and halfe to Parr; here I fferry’d over againe, not but when the tyde is out you may ford it.

Thence I went over the heath to S^t Austins w^ch is a Little market town where I Lay, but their houses are like Barnes up to y^e top of y^e house. Here was a pretty good dineing room and Chamber within it and very neate Country women. My Landlady brought me one of y^e west 218Country tarts this was y^e first I met w^th though. I had asked for them in many places in Sommerset and Devonshire; its an apple pye w^th a Custard all on the top, its y^e most acceptable entertainment y^t Could be made me. They scald their Creame and milk in most parts of those Countrys and so its a sort of Clouted Creame as we Call it, w^th a Little sugar and soe put on y^e top of y^e apple Pye. I was much pleased w^th my supper tho’ not with the Custome of the Country w^ch is a universall smoaking, both men women and children have all their pipes of tobacco in their mouths and soe sit round the fire smoaking w^ch was not delightfull to me when I went down to talke w^th my Landlady for jnformation of any matter and Customs amongst them. I must say they are as Comely sort of women as I have seen any where tho’ in ordinary dress—good black Eyes and Crafty enough and very neate. Halfe a mile from hence they blow their tin w^ch went to see. They take y^e ore and pound it in a stamping mill w^ch resembles the paper mills, and when its fine as y^e finest sand—some of w^ch I saw and took—this they fling into a ffurnace and w^th it Coale to make the fire. So it burns together and makes a violent heate and fierce flame, the mettle by y^e fire being separated from y^e Coale and its own Drosse, being heavy falls down to a trench made to receive it at y^e furnace hole below. This Liquid mettle I saw them shovel up w^th an jron shovel and soe pour it into molds in w^ch it Cooles and soe they take it thence in sort of wedges or piggs I think they Call them, its a fine mettle in its first melting—Looks Like silver—I had a piece poured out and made Cold for to take w^th me. Y^e oare as its just dug Lookes Like y^e thunderstones, a greenish hue full of pendust this seemes to Containe its full description, y^e shineing part is white. I went a mile farther on y^e hills and soe Came where they were digging in the tinn mines, there was at Least 20 mines all in sight w^ch employs a Great many people at work almost night and day, but Constantly all and Every day jncluding the Lords day w^ch they are forced to prevent their mines being overflowed w^th water. More than 1000 men are taken up about them, few 219mines but had then almost 20 men and boys attending it either down in y^e mines digging and Carrying y^e oare to the Little Bucket w^ch Conveys it up, or Else others are Draineing the water and Looking to y^e Engines y^t are draineing it, and those above are attending y^e drawing up the oare in a sort of windlass as is to a Well. Two men keeps turning bringing up one and Letting down another, they are much Like the Leather Buckets they use in London to put out fire, w^ch hang up in Churches and Great mens halls. They have a Great Labour and Great expence to draine the mines of the water w^th mills that horses turn, and now they have y^e mills or water Engines that are turned by the water w^ch is Convey’d on frames of timber and truncks to hold y^e water, w^ch falls down on y^e wheeles as an over shott mill, and these are y^e sort that turns y^e water into y^e severall towns I have seen about London, Darby and Exeter and many places more. They do five tymes more good than the mills they use to turn w^th horses, but then they are much more Chargeable. Those mines do require a great deale of timber to support them and to make all those engines and mills, w^ch makes fewell very scarce here; they burn mostly turffs w^ch is an unpleasant smell, it makes one smell as if smoaked Like Bacon. This ore as said is made fine powder in a Stamping Mill w^ch is Like y^e paper mills, only these are pounded drye and noe water Let into them as is to y^e Raggs, to work them into a paste. Ye mills are all turned w^th a Little Streame or Channell of water you may step over, jndeed they have noe other mills but such in all the Country; I saw not a windmill all over Cornwall or Devonshire tho’ they have wind and hills Enough, and it may be its too Bleake for them. In the tinn mines there is stone Dug out and a sort of spar something Like what I have seen in the Lead mines at Darbyshire but it seemed more sollid and hard, it shines and Lookes Like mother of pearle. They alsoe digg out stones as Cleer as Christal w^ch is Called Cornish Diamonds. I saw one as bigg as my two ffists, very Cleer and Like some pieces of Chrystal my father brought from y^e Alps In Italy w^ch I have by me. I got one of those 220pieces of their Cornish Diamonds as Long as halfe my finger w^ch had three or four flatt sides w^th Edges, the top was sharpe and so hard as it would Cut a Letter on glass. Thence I went to —— 6 miles good way, and passed by 100 mines some on which they were at work, others that were lost by y^e waters overwhelming them. I crossed y^e water on a Long stone bridge and so through dirty stony Lanes 3 mile and then I Came into a broad Coach Rode which I have not seen since I Left Exeter, so I went 3 mile more to M^r Boscawens—Trygothy—a Relation of mine. His house stands on a high hill in the middle of a parke with severall Rows of trees with woods beyond it. Y^e house is built all of white stone like the Rough Coarse Marble and Cover’d w^th slate. They use much Lime in their Cement w^ch makes both walls and Cover Look very white. There is a Court walled round w^th open Iron gates and barrs. The Entrance is up a few stone steps into a Large high hall and so to a passage that Leads foreright up a good stair Case. On y^e Right side is a Large Common parlour for Constant Eating in, from whence goes a Little roome for smoaking y^t has a back way into the kitchin, and on the Left hand is a Great parlour and drawing roome—wanscoated all very well but plaine. Y^e Great Parlour is Cedar, out of y^t is the Drawing-roome which is hung with pictures of the family, that goes into y^e garden w^ch has Gravell walks round and across, but y^e squares are full of goosebery and shrub-trees and Looks more Like a Kitchen garden as Lady Mary Boscawen told me, out of w^ch is another Garden and orchard which is something Like a Grove, Green walks w^th rows of fruit trees. Its Capable of being a fine place w^th some Charge, the roomes above are new modell’d, 3 roomes wanscoated and hung as y^e new way is, and y^e beds made up well, one red damaske, another Green, another wrought some of y^e Ladyes own work and well made up, w^ch is her own Roome w^th a dressing roome by it. There is a dressing roome and a roome for a servant just by y^e best Chamber. There are two other good roomes unalter’d w^th old hangings to y^e bottom on wrought work of y^e first Ladyes. 221Lady Margets work, y^t was my Cos’n German, within that roome was a servants roome and back staires, there was just such another apartment on y^e other side.

Between all from the staires a broad passage Leads to a Balcony over the Entrance w^ch Look’d very pleasantly over the parke but in the Cupulo on y^e Leads I Could see a vast way, at Least 20 mile round; for this house stands very high to y^e Land side Eastward, and the south was the Great Ocean w^ch runns into Falmouth thats y^e best harbour for shipps in that road. 6 mile from this place westward was to Truro and the north to the hills full of Copper mines. Here I was very Civily Entertained: from thence I returned back Intending not to goe to y^e Lands End w^ch was 30 miles farther for feare of y^e raines that fell in the night w^ch made me doubt what travelling I should have; soe to S^t Culumb I went, a pretty Long 12 mile. Here I met with many Rowes of Elm trees w^ch I have not found in any Country Except Wiltshire; these were mostly soe, tho’ there were alsoe ashes and oakes. Y^e hedges were Hazelthorne and Holly but to see soe many good rowes of trees on y^e road is surprising and Looks Like the Entrance to some Gentlemans house, and I cannot tell but some of them were soe tho’ a mile off from y^e house.

The next day finding it faire weather on y^e Change of y^e moone, I alter’d my Resolution and soe went for y^e Lands End by Redruth 18 miles, mostly over heath and Downs w^ch was very bleake and full of mines.

Here I Came by the Copper mines w^ch have the same order in the digging and draining, tho’ here it seemes Dryer and I believe not quite soe annoy’d w^th water. The ore is something as the tinn only this Looks blackish, or rather a purple Colour, and y^e glistering part is yellow as y^e other was white. They do not melt it here but ship it off to Bristol by y^e North Sea w^ch I Rode in sight of, and is not above 2 or 3 Mile from hence, which supplyes them with Coales for their fewell at Easyer rates than the other side Plymouth and the South Sea, because since y^e warre they Could not Double y^e poynt at y^e Lands End, being so neer Ffrance y^e pirats or Privateers met them. Indeed at S^t Jves 222they do melt a Little but nothing that is Considerable—that is 10 mile from Redruth w^ch is a Little market town. Here they Carry all their things on horses backs soe that of a market day w^ch was Fryday you see a great number of horses Little of size w^ch they Call Cornish Canelys. They are well made and strong and will trip along as Light on the stony road without injury to themselves, where as my horses went so heavy that they wore their shoes immediately thinn and off, but here I met with a very good smith that shooed y^e horses as well as they do in London, and that is not Common in the Country, but here I found it soe, and at a place in Westmoreland by y^e ffells a smith made good shoes and set them on very well. From Redruth I went to Pensands 15 mile and passed by y^e ruines of Great ffortification or Castle on a high hill about 3 mile from Redruth and passed to Hailes and soe went by y^e sea side a great way, it being spring tide it was a full sea. Just over against it there was a Church w^ch was almost sunck into y^e sands being a very sandy place. So I went up pretty high hills and over some heath or Common, on w^ch a Great storme of haile and raine met me and drove fiercely on me but y^e wind soone dry’d my Dust Coate. Here I Came by a very good Grove of trees w^ch I thought was by some Gentlemans house but found it some ffarmers.

The people here are very ill Guides and know but Little from home, only to some market town they frequent, but will be very solicitous to know where you goe and how farre and from whence you Came and where is y^e abode. Then I Came in sight of y^e hill in Cornwall Called y^e Mount, its on a Rock in the sea w^ch at y^e flowing tyde is an jsland, but at Low water one Can goe over y^e sands almost just to it, its but a Little market town w^ch is about 2 mile from Panzants, and you may walke or Ride to it all on y^e sands when y^e tyde’s out. Its a ffine Rock and very high—severall Little houses for fisher men—in y^e sides of it just by the water. At y^e top is a pretty good house where the Govenour Lives sometymes,—S^r —— Hook his name is—there is a tower on the top on w^ch is a fflag. There is a Chaire or throne on the top from whence they Can discover a 223Great way at sea and here they put up Lights to direct shipps.

Pensands is Rightly named being all sands about it—it Lies just as a shore to y^e maine South ocean w^ch Comes from y^e Lizard and being on y^e side of a hill w^th a high hill all round y^e side to y^e Landward it Lookes soe snugg and warme, and truely it needs shelter haveing the sea on y^e other side and Little or no ffewell—turff and ffurse and fferne. They have Little or noe wood and noe Coale w^ch differences it from Darbyshire, otherwise this and to y^e Land’s End is stone and barren as Darbyshire. I was surprised to ffind my supper boyling on a fire allwayes supply’d w^th a bush of ffurse and y^t to be y^e only ffewell to dress a joynt of meat and broth, and told them they Could not roast me anything, but they have a Little wood for such occasions but its scarce and dear w^ch is a strange thing y^t y^e shipps should not supply them. They told me it must all be brought round the Lands End and since y^e warre they Could not have it. This town is two parishes, one Church in y^e town and a Little Chappell and another Church belonging to y^e other parish w^ch is a mile distance. There is alsoe a good meeteing place.

There is a good Key and a good Harbour for y^e shipps to Ride, by meanes of y^e point of Land w^ch runns into y^e Sea in a neck or Compass w^ch shelters it from y^e maine and answers the Lizard point w^ch you see very plaine—a point of Land Looks Like a Double hill one above y^e other that runns a good way into y^e sea. Y^e Lands End is 10 mile ffarther, pretty steep and narrow Lanes, but its not shelter’d w^th trees or hedg Rows this being rather desart and Like y^e peake Country in Darbyshire, dry stone walls, and y^e hills full of stones, but it is in most places better Land and yeilds good Corne, both wheate Barley and oates and some Rhye. About 2 mile from the Lands End I Came in sight of y^e maine ocean on both sides, the south and north sea and soe Rode in its view till I saw them joyn’d at y^e poynt, and saw the jsland of Sily w^ch is 7 Leagues off y^e Lands End. They tell me that in a Cleer day those in the Island Can discern the people in the 224maine as they goe up y^e hill to Church, they Can Describe their Clothes. This Church and Little parish w^ch is Called Church town is about a mile from the poynt. The houses are but poor Cottages Like Barns to Look on, much Like those in Scotland, but to doe my own Country its right y^e Inside of their Little Cottages are Clean and plaister’d and such as you might Comfortably Eate and drink in, and for Curiosity sake I dranck there and met w^th very good bottled ale. The Lands End terminates in a poynt or Peak of Great Rocks w^ch runs a good way into y^e sea, I Clamber’d over them as farre as safety permitted me, there are abundance of Rocks and Sholes of stones stands up in the sea a mile off some here and there, some quite to y^e shore, w^ch they name by severall names of Knights and Ladies Roled up in mantles from some old tradition or ffiction—Y^e poets advance description of y^e amours of some Great persons; but these many Rocks and Stones w^ch Lookes Like y^e Needles in y^e Isle of Wight makes it hazardous for shipps to double y^e poynt Especially in stormy weather. Here at y^e Lands end they are but a Little way off of France, 2 dayes saile at farthest Convey them to Hauve de Grace in France, but y^e peace being but newly entred into w^th y^e Ffrench I was not willing to venture at Least by myself into a fforreign Kingdom, and being then at y^e End of y^e Land, my horses Leggs Could not Carry me through y^e deep, and so return’d againe to Pensands 10 mile more, and soe Came in view of both y^e seas and saw y^e Lizard point and Pensands and y^e Mount in Cornwall w^ch Looked very fine in y^e broad day, the sunn shineing on y^e rocke in y^e sea. Then I continued my returne from Pensands to Hailing and now y^e tyde was down and so much Land appeared w^ch lay under water before, and I might have forded quite a crosse, many y^t know y^e country do, but I tooke y^e safer way round by y^e bridge. Here is abundance of very good Fish tho’ they are so ill supply’d at Pensands because they carry it all up y^e Country East and Southward. This is an arme of y^e North Sea w^ch runs in a greate way into y^e Land, its a Large Bay when y^e sea comes in and upon y^e next hill I 225ascended from it could discover it more plaine to be a deep water and y^e supply of y^e maine ocean. Just by here lay some ships and I perceived as I went, there being a Storme, it seemed very tempestious and is a hazardous place in the high tides; so I came to Redruth. I perceive they are very bleake in these Countryes especially to this North Ocean and y^e winds so troublesome they are forced to spin straw and so make a caul or net work to lay over their thatch on their Ricks and out houses, w^th waites of Stones round to defend y^e thatch from being blown away by y^e greate winds, not but they have a better way of thatching their Houses w^th Reeds and so close y^t when its well done will last twenty yeares, but what I mention of braces or bands of straw is on their Rickes w^ch only is to hold a yeare. These places as in some other parts, indeed all over Cornwall and Devonshire, they have their carryages on horses backes, this being y^e time of harvest, tho’ later in y^e yeare than usuall being y^e middle of septemb^r, but I had y^e advantage of seeing their harvest bringing in, w^ch is on a horse’s backe w^th sort of crookes of wood like yokes on either side—two or three on a side stands up in w^ch they stow y^e corne and so tie it w^th cords, but they cannot so equally poise it but y^e going of y^e horse is like to cast it down sometimes on y^e one side and sometimes on y^e other, for they load them from y^e neck to y^e taile and pretty high and are forced to support it w^th their hands, so to a horse they have two people, and the women leads and supports them as well as y^e men and goe through thick and thinn—sometymes I have met with half a score horses thus Loaded—they are Indeed but Little horses their Canelles as they Call them, and soe may not be able to draw a Cart, otherwise I am sure 3 or 4 horses might draw 3 tymes as much as 4 horses does Carry and where it is open Ground and roads broad, w^ch in some places here it was, I wondred at their Labour in this kind, for the men and the women themselves toiled Like their horses, but the Common observation of Custom being as a second nature people are very hardly Convinc’d or brought off from, tho’ never soe jnconvenient.

226 From Redruth I went to Truro 8 mile, w^ch is a pretty Little town and seaport and formerly was Esteemed the best town in Cornwall, now is the second next Lanstone. Its just by y^e Copper and tinn mines and Lies down in a bottom, pretty steep ascent as most of the towns in these Countrys, that you would be afraid of tumbling w^th nose and head foremost. Ye town is built of stone—a good pretty Church built all stone and Carv’d on y^e outside, it stands in y^e middle of y^e town, and just by there is a market house on stone pillars and hall on y^e top; there is alsoe a pretty good key. This was formerly a great tradeing town and flourish’d in all things, but now as there is in all places their Rise and period soe this, w^ch is become a Ruinated disregarded place. Here is a very good meeteing but I was hindred by y^e raine y^e Lords day Else should have Come to hearing, and so was forced to stay where I Could hear but one Sermon at y^e Church, but by it saw y^e fashion of y^e Country being obliged to go a mile to y^e parish Church over some Grounds w^ch are divided by such stiles and bridges uncommon, and I never saw any such before; they are severall stones fixed aCross and so are Like a Grate or Large Steps over a Ditch that is full of mudd or water, and over this just in the middle is a Great stone fixed side wayes w^ch is the style to be Clambered over. These I find are the ffences and Guards of their Grounds one from another, and Indeed they are very troublesome and dangerous for strangers and Children. I heard a pretty good Sermon but that w^ch was my Greatest pleasure was the good Landlady I had, she was but an ordinary plaine woman but she was understanding in the best things as most,—y^e Experience of reall religion and her quiet submision and self Resignation to y^e will of God in all things, and especially in y^e placeing her in a remoteness to y^e best advantages of hearing, and being in such a publick Employment w^ch she desired and aimed at y^e discharging soe as to adorne y^e Gospel of her Lord and Saviour, and the Care of her Children. Indeed I was much pleased and Edify’d by her Conversation and y^e pitch of Soul Resignation to y^e will of God and thankfulness 227that God Enabled and owned her there in, was an attainment few reach y^t have greater advantages of Learning and knowing y^e mind of God. But this plainly Led me to see that as God himself teacheth soe as none teacheth Like him, soe he Can Discover himself to those immediately y^t have not the opportunity of seeing him in his sanctuary, and therefore to him we must address for help in this or any Duty he Calls us to, both in the use of what meanes he appoynts as alsoe for success and blessing on it.

From Truro w^ch is 9 mile from Ffallmouth and 4 mile from Trygolny w^ch was y^e place I was at before w^th my Relation, that would have Engaged my stay with them a few dayes or weekes to have given me the diversion of the Country, and to have heard the Cornish nightingales as they Call them, the Cornish Chough—a sort of Jackdaw if I mistake not—a Little black bird w^ch makes them a visit about Michaelmas and gives them y^e diversion of the notes w^ch is a Rough sort of musick not unlike y^e Bird I take them for, so I believe they by way of jest put on the Cornish Gentlemen by Calling them nightingales; but the season of the year enclined to raine and y^e dayes declineing I was affraid to delay my Return, and these parts not abounding w^th much accomodation for horses, theirs being a hard sort of Cattle and Live much on Grass or ffurses of w^ch they have y^e most, and it will make them very ffatt being Little hardy horses, and as they jest on themselves do not Love the taste of oates and hay, because they never permit them to know the taste of it. But my horses Could not Live so, Especially on journeys, of w^ch I had given them a pretty exercise, and their new oates and hay suited not their stomach. I Could get noe Beanes for them till I Came back to S^t Columbe againe w^ch from Truro by S^t Mitchel was 12 miles mostly Lanes and Long miles. As I observed before I saw noe windmills all these Countrys over, they have only the mills w^ch are overshott and a Little rivulet of water you may step over turns them, w^ch are the mills for Grinding their Corn and their ore or what Else. From S^t Columbe I went to Way bridge 6 Long miles. 228There was a river w^ch was flowed up by y^e tyde a Greate way up into the Land, it Came from y^e north sea, it was broad, y^e bridge had 17 arches.

Thence to Comblefford over steep hills 9 mile more, some of this way was over Commons of Black moorish Ground full of Sloughs. The Lanes are deffended w^th bancks wherein are stones, some Great rocks, others slaty stones, such as they use for tileing. Comblefford was a Little market town but it was very indifferent accomodations, but the raines y^t night and next morning made me take up there till about 10 oClock in the morning; it then made a shew of Cleering up made me willing to seek a better Lodging. 2 mile from this place is a Large standing water Called Dosenmere poole in a Black moorish Ground and is fed by no rivers except the Little rivulets from some high hills yet seemes allwayes full w^th out Diminution and flows w^th y^e wind and is stored with good ffish, and people Living near it take y^e pleasure in a boate to goe about it. There is alsoe good wildfowle about it; it seemes so be such a water as the mer at Whitlesome in Huntingtonshire by Stilton its fresh water and what supply it has must be the rivulets y^e must Come from y^e south sea being that wayward towards Plymouth. As I travelled I Came in sight of a great mountaine esteemed the second highest hill in England supposeing y^e account Black Combe in Cumberland y^e first, but really I have seen soe many Great and high hills I Cannot attribute preeminence to Either of these tho’ this did Look very Great and tall, but I thinke its better said the highest hill in each County.

I travelled 4 pretty Long miles much in Lanes and then Came into a Common where I Cross’d the Great roads w^ch on the Right hand Leads a way to Plymouth and the south sea, the Left hand to Bastable and the north sea, w^ch Conveys the stone or rather marble w^ch they take from hence at Bole, remarkable Quarrys for a Black stone, Exceeding hard and Glossy Like marble, very Dureable for pavements. This they send to all parts in tyme of peace and London takes off much of it.

Here I Rode over a Common or Down 4 mile Long in 229sight of y^e North sea and saw Hartly poynt which is the Earle of Baths just by his fine house Called Stow, his fine stables of horses, and Gardens. There I discern’d the Poynt very plaine and just by I saw the jsle of Lundy which formerly belonged to my Grandfather William Lord viscount Say and Seale, w^ch does abound with ffish and Rabbets and all sorts of ffowles, one bird y^t Lives partly in the water and partly out and so may be Called an amphibious Creature, its true that one foote is Like a turky the other a gooses foote; it Lays its Egg in a place the Sun shines on and sets it so exactly upright on the small End and there it remaines till taken up and all the art and skill of persons Cannot set it up soe againe to abide. Here I met with some showers w^ch by fitts or storms held me,—to Lanston 4 mile more, these 12 mile from Cambleford was not Little ones and what with the wet and Dirty Lanes in many places I made it a tedious journey. I Could see none of the town till just I was as you may say ready to tumble into it, there being a vast steep to descend to when the town seemed in a bottom yet I was forced to ascend a pretty good hill into the place. Lanston is the chief town in Cornwall where the assizes are kept, I should have remarked at y^e Lands End that Pensands was the Last Corporation in England, soe this is one of y^e Last Great towns tho’ noe Citty, for Cornwall is in y^e Diocese of Devonshire w^ch is Exeter.

There is a Great ascent up into the Castle w^ch Looks very Great and in good repaire the walls and towers round it, its true there is but a part of it remaines, the round tower or fort being still standing and makes a good appearance. The town is Encompass’d w^th walls and gates, its’ pretty Large tho’ you Cannot discover the whole town, being up and down in so many hills. The streetes themselves are very steep unless it be at the market place where is a Long and handsome space set on stone pillars w^th the town hall on the top, w^ch has a Large Lanthorne or Cupilo in the middle, where hangs a bell for a Clock with a Dyal to the streete. There is in this place 2 or 3 good houses built after the London form by some Lawyers, Else the whole town is 230old houses of timber work. At a Little distance from the town on a high hill I Looked back and had the full prospect of the whole town which was of a pretty Large extent. A mile beyond I crossed on a stone bridge over a river and Entred into Devonshire againe, and pass’d through mostly Lanes w^ch were stony and dirty by reason of y^e raines y^t ffell the night before, and this day, which was the wettest day I had in all my summers travells, hitherto having had noe more than a shower in a day and that not above 3 tymes in all except when I Came to Exeter. As I Came down from Taunton there was small raine most of the afternoon but this day was much worse, so that by that tyme I Came through Lanes and some Commons to Oakingham w^ch was 15 mile I was very wet. This was a Little market town and I met with a very good Inn and accomodation, very good Chamber and bed and Came in by 5 of the Clock, so had good tyme to take off my wet Cloathes and be well dryed and warme to eate my supper, and rested very well without sustaining y^e Least damage by the wet. I should have Remark’d that these roads were much up and down hill thro’ enclosed Lands and woods in y^e same manner the other part of Cornwall and Devonshire was, gaineing by degrees the upper Grounds by one hill to another and soe descending them in Like manner. These raines fully Convinced me of y^e need of so many Great stone Bridges whose arches were soe high that I have wonder’d at it because the waters seemed shallow streames, but they were so swelled by one night and dayes raine y^t they Came up pretty near the arches and ran in most places w^th such rapidity and Look’d so thick and troubled as if they would Clear all before them. This Causes Great floods, and the Lower Grounds are overwhelm’d for a season after such raines, so that had I not put on and gotten beyond Lanston that day there would have been noe moveing for me till the flouds w^ch hourly encreased were run off.

Next day I went to Cochen Well 10 mile, mostly good open way except a hill or two w^ch were steep and stony, tho’ this was the Longer way and about, yet by reason of y^e former raines it was the safest, for y^e Lower way was run 231over by the waters w^ch are Land flouds from the swelling Brookes, w^ch are up in a few hours and are sunck in the same tyme againe—the wayes were somewhat Dirty. Thence to Exeter 10 mile more, but this was the basest way you Can goe and made much worse by these raines, but its narrow Lanes full of stones and Loose ground, Clay, and now exceeding Slippery by the raines.

A quarter of a mile on this side of the town I stood on a high banck from whence the prospect of y^e Citty of Exeter was very pleasant, Could see it to great advantage, y^e Cathedrall and other Churches Spires w^th y^e whole town, w^ch in generall is well built, w^th y^e good Bridge over y^e Ex, w^ch is a fine river on whose Banckes are severall Rows of trees all below the town. The walks all about it augments the beauty of y^e Citty. From whence I went to Topsham 3 miles which is a Little market place and a very good Key; hither they Convey on horses their Serges and soe Load their shipps w^ch Comes to this place, all for London. Thence I saw Starre Cross where the Great shipps Ride and there they build some shipps. This was up the river, 5 or 6 miles up y^e river, but the tide being out Could not goe and it was ten mile by Land and their miles are soe Long here I would not goe it seing almost as well the shipps y^t Lay there as if at the place.

Thence I returned to Exeter 3 mile where I had been very Kindly Entertained by M^r Goswill and his wife, w^ch was one my broth^r S^r Edmond Harrison did Employ in Buying Serges. From Exeter I went to Honiton 15 mile, all fine Gravell way, y^e best Road I have met with all in the west. Here it is they make the fine bone lace in imitation of the Antwerp and Flanders Lace and jndeed I think its as fine—it only will not wash so fine, w^ch must be the fault in y^e thread. Honiton is a pretty large place, a good market house, near it a good Church w^th a round tower and spire w^ch was very high and a Little peculiar in its forme, somewhat Like a Pigeon house Rooffe. Here is a very Large meeteing of Descenters. Thence I went to Axminster 7 mile more, but not soe good way being much in Lanes stony 232and Dirty and pretty much up and down hills, Like y^e other parts of those Countrys.

Beyond Axminster where I passed over the river Ax on a pretty Large Bridge I Came to Somersetshire againe. This Axminster is a Little market town and the London Road by Chard, but I struck out of that road 2 mile off the town to Liegh w^ch was 4 mile from Axminster, to a Relations house M^r Hendlys, w^ch stands on a hill, but its such an Enclosed Country and narrow Lanes you Cannot see a Bow shott before you, and such up and down steep hills. Its an old house, and Large Court w^th open gates that enter you into a passage, on the Right hand a good Parlour new wanscoated, next that a Kitchen and pantrys Leads into a Court where all the offices are and stable and Coach houses. On the Left side of y^e passage at y^e Entrance is a Large old hall w^th a Great halfe pace at y^e upper End w^th 2 Chimneys in the hall. This Leades into a passage on the Left hand and so through to another parlour w^th good old fashion Carved wanscoat. The roomes are low, out of y^e passage Leads up a paire of staires to 3 or 4 roomes all Low and but one well furnished; then out of same passage below is a doore into the Gardens w^ch are one Lower than the other with stone stepps, its Capable of being very handsome if made with open Grates to set one out to see y^e orchards and woods beyond. They were a turffing y^e walks and makeing banks in order to it. Y^e house alsoe is Capable of alteration to a good house if the windows were made Lower and y^e roomes fitted w^th wanscoate and good ffurniture. Just to the front there is design’d a visto to be Cut thro’ the wood to the water side w^ch will be very fine being on a descent.

About a mile from hence is one M^r Preadneas house, a fine old house and well furnished but they permit none to see it, soe I saw it not only drove by it to see my Cozens Little Girle at nurse and soe returned home againe a mile, and then from Liegh I went through narrow stony Lanes up hills and down, w^ch steeps Causes the water on raines to trill down on the Low ground that for a few hours or a day there will be noe passing in y^e bottom, w^ch happen’d while 233I was at Liegh; one nights Raine put the Cattle in the meddows swimming and hindred us from going to Church, the water would have Came over the windows of the Coach. These stony Lanes I passed till I Came to the Great road which Comes from Lime, here I Entred into Dorsetshire and soe went through a Little town Called Maiden Newton eight mile more, and soe thence to Dorchester town 6 mile more; all a fine hard Gravel way and much on the downs—this is good Ground and Much for sheep. Thence I went to Blandford 12 Long miles thro’ Piddletown Milborn and WhitChurch. There I staid with my relation Cos’n Collier, Husys and Ffussells, thence to Salisbury 18 mile. When I had passed 6 mile I Came through a Gate w^ch brought me into Wiltshire and soe over y^e downs to Salisbury and from thence to Newtontony 7 miles.

I went from Newtontony to Sarum and home againe 3 tymes w^ch made it 42 miles in all, then to Wallop 4 miles and home again 4 miles, and to Grattly twice and back againe 12 mile, and to Cholderton twice 4 miles, to Allington and home 2 mile more, then to London.

From Newtontony to Winchester 15 mile, there I went to see a Relation M^rs Horne thence Alsford 8 mile. The Little raines I had in the morning before I Left Newtontony made the wayes very slippery, and it being mostly on Chaulk way a Little before I Came to Alsford forceing my horse out of the hollow way his feete failed and he Could noe wayes recover himself, and soe I was shott off his neck upon the Bank, but noe harm I bless God and as soone as he Could role himself up stood stock still by me, which I Looked on as a Great mercy—indeed mercy and truth all wayes have attended me. The next day I went to Alton 10 miles thence Ffarnum 9 miles more. This proved a very wet day, after an hours Rideing in the morning it never Ceased more or Less to raine, w^ch made me put in at Ffarnum and stay all the day after I Came in at noone. But then it began to raine much faster and soe Continued. Thence next day I went over the fforest in sight of Ffairly Castle w^ch is the Bishop of Winchesters pallace, it Lookes 234nobly on a hill, thence to Bagshott 9 miles, thence to Winsor over the fforest 7 Long miles, this way most Clay deep way, the worse by reason of y^e raines and full of Sloughs. About a mile off Windsor Castle appeares standing on a hill much after the manner of Durham w^th y^e walls and battlements round, only that is all stone and this is but partly soe and y^e rest Brick plaister’d over in imitation of stones w^ch does not Look so well. It is a pretty great ascent to y^e town w^ch is well built, something suitable to London by reason of its affinity to y^e Court, and I saw the Cathedrall or S^t Georges Church w^ch is very fine built all stone and Carved on y^e outside, severall Cloysters Leads to the Doctors houses—its a Lofty noble building. The quire is properly S^t Georges Chappel whose Rooff is very high and Carved very Curiously, all free stone, so is the rest of y^e Church. There hangs up y^e Banners and Ensignes of honour belonging to y^e Severall Knights of the honourable order of y^e blew garter, their Complement is 26, there was one void at this tyme by the Death of y^e Earle of Peterborough. There is a Greate Cerimony in their Inauguration, their seates are of Wanscoate Carved which are all quite round the quire, w^th Each Garters and Coate armours and banners on the top, and when they are jnstalled. their Garments are blew velvet, in shape Like the Coapes, Lined w^th white Sattin or silk, that and their blew Garter in which hangs a George on horseback besett w^th jewels and a Diamond Garter put on their Right Leg, which is performed by 2 of y^e former Knights of the order, which is given them by the King that is the Principal of y^t order. Then they have an oath Given them to maintain the Rights and Cerimonyes of said order and soe are seated in their seates. There are Great fees paid by each new Knight to y^e officers to the poore Knights of Windsor, whose seates are just under y^e Seates of the Knights of y^e Garter, 18 poore Knights of Windsor w^ch have houses provided for them about the Cloyster and 48^£ p^r annum each besides their perquisits at such tymes. There are alsoe 18 singing men and petty Cannons, those that are preachers has houses and 30^lb p^r annum each, but the others have but 22^lb each a yeare and houses to Live in. These 235all have their ffees at the jnstalment of Each Knight of the Garter and of this order are severall Princes and Great men both here and in forreign Parts.

There is a very Large fine organ at y^e Entrance of the Quire, the alter is Crimson velvet striped w^th Gold tissue, Large Candlesticks and Basons Gilt. At the jnstallment there is a Great deale of plaite set out w^ch belongs to the Chappel. Over the alter is a painting of Christ and his twelve apostles at y^e passover supper very naturally drawn, and over it a Large window full of fine paintings—the history of the testaments. Y^e Quire is paved all with black and white marble under which is a Large vault for y^e Royal family. There Lyes King Henry y^e 8^th and King Charles the first &c. There is in the Church a tombe and vault of y^e Duke of Norfolks familly w^th steele Carvings all about it very Curious, and to add to its variety it may be all taken piece by piece and put up in a box, its a very Large thing and great variety of work—this is on the Right side of the alter.

There is in a Little Chappel by, a very fine monument with two Large Statues in alabast^r Painted and gilt all at Length in their garments, and round the tomb stone are the Statues of their Children, 7 daughters, four of them were twinns and soe represented being put together, and 3 sonnes, all alabaster, and there is a role of matt under the head of the Lord and Lady that was so naturall, Looked like real Matt. This was Lord Earle Lincolns tomb. There is another monument of the Earle of Rutlands, the first of the family w^ch was Earle 100 year since, it was in the yeare ano: Dom: 1513: there is round that 6 Sonns and six Daughters with Carvings of other Images holding their Coates of armes. There is another monument w^ch is of y^e old Duke off Beaufort who was base son to King Edward the 4^th, and therefore there is a barr of reproach aCross the English arms w^ch he bears. There is another statue of white marble in a Leaneing posture almost Lyeing quite along and they say its very Like his Effigie—this was the Bishop of Chichester. There is another Bishops Effigie in y^e wall just to y^e waste of alabaster. There is a Chappel 236in w^ch are prayers at 8 of y^e Clock at night. There is a white marble ffont. The rooff of the quire is very Curious, Carv’d stone and soe thinn to y^e Leads one might grasp it between thumb and finger, and yet so well fixt as to be very strong. From thence I proceeded on to y^e Castle w^ch is the finest pallace y^e King has Especially now White hall is burnt; but that was old buildings and unless it were the banqueting house and the apartment which our good Queen Mary beautifyed for herself that was never soe well as Winsor. You Enter in through a gate; on the right hand is a tower which is built w^th Redouts and walks round it as was Durham Castle. Its 120 stepps up where is the Guard roome hung with armes, thence a Dineing roome, the Duke of Norfolks appartment, a Drawing roome and two bed Chambers, one w^th a half bedstead as the new mode, dimity w^th fine shades of worstead works well made up—there are good Pictures. The next roome has such a bed but that is fine Indian quilting and Embroidery of silk. The tower on the Leads is as many stepps more, I walked round it and Could see a Great prospect of the whole town and Winsor fforest and the Country round to Kensington, I Could see Lord of Hollands house and Rowes of trees, and to Harrow of the hill, and to Shooters hill beyond London, and the town of Winsor Looked very well. There were severall noblemens houses, Duke S^t Albans and fine Gardens, Just by it is the Lord Guidolphins house and Gardens; there I Could see the fine walk or rather Road planted with trees of a huge length into y^e fforest, w^ch King Charles made for his going out in Diversion of shooteing, and here I could see y^e river Thames w^ch twists and turns itself round y^e meddowes and Grounds. Upon this tower w^ch is most tymes moist, all in the walls grows y^e best maiden haire both white and black, w^ch is an herb much esteemed for Coughs and to put into Drinks for consumption.

Thence I proceeded on to a Large Court Like the Quaderangle at Christ Church College in Oxford, or Trinity in Cambridge, in the middle of which is a statue of King Charles y^e Second on horseback all of brass, and is railed 237in w^th Iron spikes; round this Court are the Buildings w^ch are y^e severall appartments of the Lords of y^e bed Chamber, and the Ladies; also one side is the Lodgings belonging to the princess Ann of Denmarke w^ch are all of stone and well built and beautifyed. In the middle you Enter a Large pair of jron gates finely Carv’d into a paved Large space supported w^th several rows of Stone Pillars, and ascending up Large Staires, which Enters you into the Queens Guard Chamber hung full of armoury, w^ch is so Exactly set, the Pikes set up like Pillars and such distances, y^e muskets Laid a long one above the other y^e boxes for y^e powder, and the Edge of y^e Cornish is Pistols set as thick as they can be set, and above it are drums and helmets and back and breast armour. The Chimney piece is of y^e same; swords in the middle, there poynts turned outward, with a round of Little Pistolls set Close in quarter Circle; its all exactly uniforme and very handsome. Next into a noble Hall w^ch has very fine paintings, this is the Standard for Curiosity in all places you see painting, its done by the same hand did the paintings att Winsor. The top is full of all sort of varietys, in the middle is King Charles’s Picture, y^e sides are all descriptions of Battles, and between Each Picture in the Pillars is y^e George and Blew garter and Starre, at y^e upper End is the Large Picture of S^t George Encountering y^e dragon and at the Lower End is y^e picture of y^e King that first Instituted this order of the Blew garter, and in putting it on himself on his son, who was just returned victor from some Considerable Battle. I should have noted in my Remarks of the Cerimonies of that order that when any Dies and a Garter Drops they make a solemn offering up of all their Ensignes of honour to y^e Church and then take them down and pay some ffees as well as at their Entrance into it. From this roome I Entred into y^e Chappel under the gallery or Closet the King and Queen sets in at prayers, this was supported by four Brass Gyants or Else painted Like Brass. This seate of y^e Kings Lookes into y^e Chappel, its Crimson velvet, all the jnside and Cannopy w^th y^e Cloth w^ch hung over it all alike Richly Embroyder’d with Gold fring. This is the house Chappel 238and is Exceeding beautifull, y^e paintings of the rooffe and the sides which is y^e history of Christs miracles his Life and the good he did in healing all distemper, w^ch are described at Large here and Lookes very Lively. There is alsoe the most Exactest workmanship in y^e wood Carving, which is as the painting the pattern and masterpiece of all such work, both in ffigures, fruitages, beasts, birds, fflowers, all sorts, soe thinn y^e wood, and all white natural wood without varnish. This adorns the Pillars and void spaces between the paintings, here is as Great qualiety so much for Quantety. There was a pretty alter at y^e upper End and two gallerys for y^e musick.

Thence I went up staires into a Large dineing roome, Damaske Chaires and window Curtaines, wanscoated, and severall fine pictures. The Rooffe of this was well painted also, but they are soe Lofty its enough to Breake ones neck to Looke on them. Thence into a Gallery full of Pictures w^th a Large Looking Glass at y^e End. Thence into y^e Drawing roome where is the Large Branch of silver, and y^e sconces round y^e roome of silver, silver table, and stands, and Glass frames, and Chaire frames. Next is y^e queenes Chamber of state, all Indian Embroidery on white Sattin being presented to her by y^e Comp^y. On it is Great Plumes of white ffeathers, there is very good tapistry hangings full of gold and silver, but they are Large old ffigures. Here’s a silver table, and stands, and Glass fframe. There was a raile set a Cross at y^e beds ffeete w^ch reached Each side of y^e roome, made of sweate wood frames and open Wires in y^e middle, and was to be Doubled together in Leaves as a screen: this was instead of y^e raile use to be quite round y^e King and queens beds to keep off Companyes Coming near them.

Thence into an anti-roome through a Little Gallery or passage, thence into y^e Kings dressing roome almost all Glass; y^e Chimney piece is full of Great stone heads in nitches or hollows made for them, of some Emperours. Y^e windows of all y^e roomes are Large sashes as big as a good Looking-glass and are all diamond Cut round the Edges, the height of y^e windows makes them Looke narrow. 239Thence into the kings Constant bed Chamber, being one of y^e halfe bedsteads of Crimson and Green damaske, jnside and outside the same hangings, and Chaires and window Curtaines the same; it was Lofty and full with good ffringe, and there was such another screen or raile at y^e ffeete of the bed that tooke y^e Length of the roome as in the queens Chamber; here was tables, stands, Glass frames, Gilt gold, fine Carving on the Chimney pieces, both here and in y^e queens’ appartment. Y^e next was ye Chamber of State w^ch is noble. Indeed, very Lofty and painted on y^e roofe as they all are. The bed was green velvet Strip’d down very thick with Gold orrice Lace of my hands breadth, and round the bottom 3 such orrices and Gold ffring all round it and gold tassels; so was the Cornish. The jnside was y^e same, at the head piece was Like Curtaines ffringed round w^th gold and tyed back w^th Gold strings and tassells as it were tyed back and soe hung down in the middle, where was the Crown and sypher Embroyder’d; the hangings y^e same and such another screen aCrosse the roome to secure the bed from y^e Common. Next this is the drawing roome of state, the Cannopy and throne and y^e part behind is all green velvet Richly Embroyder’d with silver and Gold, of high Emboss’d work, and some Curiously wrought Like needlework that you Can scarce see y^e Ground or stuff its wrought on, and the Crown of Crimson velvet Embroyder’d just over the Chaire or throne of state; the ffoot-stoole the same, w^ch was all set on a half pace or part raised above y^e rest as the manner is, with, a fine Carpet over it. The Cannopy was so rich and Curled up and in some places soe ffull it Looked very Glorious, and was newly made to give audience to the Ffrench Embassadour to shew y^e Grandeur and magnificence of the British Monarch—some of these ffoolerys are requisite sometymes to Create admiration and regard to keep up the state of a kingdom and nation.

Thence I went into the Common audience roome, where was a throne on such a raised space w^th a Carpet. This throne and Canopy and y^e back with Stooles and Chaires was Crimson and Gold Coullour’d ffigured velvet. Out of 240this I Came into a Large roome for people to wait in, painted with black and white and gold—Description of some ffights and men in armour. Thence into the Kings Guard Chamber w^ch is deckt as the Queens, the walls being adorned w^th y^e severall armes put in Exact order, only in y^e pillars or spaces here they hang the Bandaleers which holds their powder. In the mantle piece there was noe difference, but in y^e middle was the starre and soe set about with y^e pistols and swords. Thence I descended Large staires of stone, and soe through a Court back to y^e walk of pillars, and soe through the Large jron gate into the Courts one without another all built round.

Winsor town Lookes well, the streetes Large, the Market Cross on stone pillars and a Large hall on the top; from thence the streete runs along to y^e Bridge over the Thames and there you Enter Buckinghamshire and a quarter of a mile off, tho’ jndeed there is building all along. There is Eaton Colledge a good stone building Carved on y^e outside, its round a square. There is at the ffront a Large schoole roome—400 schollars and 8 fellows w^ch have 400 a piece yearely. Y^e master has 1000^£, he payes all the ushers, in number seven; there is alsoe an under master for the Little schollars, this was ffounded by King Edward the Confessour and Endowed so richly by him, and on the same ffoundation is the revenues of y^e Cathedrall and y^e poore knights w^ch goe in a peculiar black gown like fryers. All their salleryes and y^e repaire of the Cathedrall is taken Care of by y^e same ffoundation, w^th y^e Colledge, not but there is a Little Chappel to y^e Colledge w^th in itself for Every dayes prayers. The Chappel and schoole room takes up two sides of the square, the two others is the Lodging for y^e ffellows and for y^e schollars; then y^e middle there is an arch w^ch Leads to y^e Cloyster and soe into their kitchen and Cellars which are very Convenient and high but pretty old. Just by is the great Hall in w^ch they eate, the schollars and fellows and masters should eate with them. This is the same ffoundation as Kings Colledge in Cambridge so y^t those schollers that are fitt to be removed to y^e University at y^e Election are sped to Kings Colledge in Cambridge and 241so are advanced as they Can get friends into ffellowshipps to Either. Ffrom Windsor I went to y^e fferry 3 mile and Rode in sight of y^e Castle on this side w^ch is all y^e K: and Q: appartments and Lookes very noble, y^e walls round w^th y^e battlements, and Gilt balls and other adornments. Here I fferry over y^e Thames and so went a nearer way which is a private road Made for y^e kings Coaches and so to Colebrooke 3 mile more. Thence to Houndslow-heath and so to London 12 mile more, then I went to Bednallgreen 4 miles and home againe 4 mile more, and here ends my Long journey this summer in w^ch I had but 3 dayes of wet except some refreshing showers sometymes, and I thinke y^t was not above 4 in all the way and it was in all above 1551 miles and many of them Long miles, in all which way and tyme I desire w^th thankfullness to own y^e good providence of God protecting me from all hazard or dangerous accident.