HERE BEGINS MY NORTHERN JOURNEY IN MAY 1697 (continued 3)

There are a great deale of Gentry w^ch Lives in y^e town, tho’ there are no good houses but w^ch are old and rambling ones. They are in that they Call the green, a space by y^e Churches w^ch are pretty near together. They are pretty Large but nothing Curious in them—stone buildings—no monuments worth notice. They keep them very Clean and neate and have a moveable scaffold to Clean the roofe and windows and walls. Its a very dear place, so much Company Living in the town makes provision scarce and dear: however its a good Excuse to raise the Reckoning on strangers.

Thence I went to admiral Russells who is now Lord orfford, a long 10 mile, and Loseing my way made it 12 mile; its pretty good way. I passed by a village or two, and in a mile of Lord orffords house I Enter Cambridgeshire, w^ch stands 3 mile from New market. You Ride in sight of New market heath where the Races are—its good Road; here are severall good gardens well kept good gravell and green walks w^th fine greens and flowers, walled in and all the outhouses very handsome. A Coach yard and stables in the middle of w^ch is a Large gate into y^e ground, and built over w^th a high lanthorn where hangs the Clock and bell: this stands higher than y^e house like a tower; y^e house being a flatt Roofe leaded and railed round full of Chimneys, but this tower I saw 10 mile off. All y^e out offices built round a Court very handsome. The hall is very noble paved w^th free stone, a squaire of black marble at Each Corner of y^e freestone: there are two fine white marble tables veined w^th bleu; its wanscoated w^th wall nut tree, the pannells and Rims round w^th mulbery tree y^t is a Lemon Coullour, and y^e moldings beyond it round are of a sweete outlandish wood not much differing from Cedar but of a finer Graine, the Chaires are all the same: its hung w^th pictures att full proportion of y^e Royal family all in their Coronation Robes, from Charles the first to his 126Majesty w^th y^e Queen also, and at the End is Prince George and Princess Ann in their Robes of Crimson velvet and Dukes Coronet as Duke and Dutchess of Cumberland. The whole house is finely furnish’d w^th differing Coull^d Damaske and velvets, some ffigured and others plaine, at Least 6 or 7 in all Richly made up after a new mode. In y^e best drawing roome was a very Rich hanging gold and silver and a Little scarlet, mostly tissue and brocade of gold and silver and border of green damaske round it; y^e window Curtain y^e same green damaske round it y^e window Curtain y^e same green damaske, and doore Curtains. There was no Looking-glass but on y^e Chimney piece and just opposite in y^e place a Looking glass used to be was 4 pannells of glass in Length and 3 in breadth set together in y^e wanscoate. Y^e same was in another drawing roome w^ch was for my Lord. The dining roome had this Looking glass on y^e top peers between the three windows; it was from y^e top to y^e bottom 2 pannells in breadth and 7 in Length so it shews one from top to toe. The roomes were all well wanscoated and hung and there was y^e finest Carv’d wood in fruitages, herbages, gumms, beasts, fowles &c. very thinn and fine all in white wood w^th out paint or varnish. Y^e severall sorts of things thus Carv’d were Exceeding naturall all round. The Chimney pieces and y^e sconces stand on Each side the Chimney, and the glasses in those Chambers where were Loose Looking-glasses, w^ch were w^th fine Carv’d head and frames some of the naturall wood others Gilt, but they were y^e largest Looking-glasses I Ever saw. There was a great flower pott Gilt Each side the Chimney in the dineing Roome for to sett trees in. Y^e great Curiosity of this wood Carving about y^e Doores Chimneys and sconces, together w^th y^e great Looking Glass pannells is much talked of and is y^e finest and most in quantety and numbers thats to be seen any where. There is very fine China and silver things and irons and jarrs and perfume potts of silver. Y^e common Roomes are all new, Convenient and neate with Double doores lined to prevent noises. Y^e Stair Case is wanscoated, very noble, fine Pictures, there is y^e battle at la Hogue a Large sea piece 127w^th an jnscription of y^e admiralls valour when y^e great ship y^e Gunn was burnt and mightily valued by y^e ffrench King.

From thence I went 8 mile to Ely w^ch were as long as the 12 I Came from S^t Edmondsbery, y^e wayes being very deep; its mostly Lanes and Low moorish ground on Each Side deffended by y^e ffendiks w^ch are deep ditches w^th draines. Y^e ffenns are full of water and mudd these also Encompass their grounds, Each mans part 10 or a dozen acres a piece or more, so these dieks are the fences. On Each side they plant willows so there is 2 rows of trees runns round y^e ground w^ch Looks very finely to see a flatt of many miles so planted but it must be ill to Live there. All this while Ely minster is in one’s view at a mile distant you would think, but go, it is a Long 4 miles. A mile distant from y^e town is a Little Hamlet from w^ch I descended from a steep hill and so Cross a bridge over water w^ch Enters into y^e Island of Ely, and so you pass a flatt on a Gravel Causey w^ch way y^e Bishop is at y^e Charge to repaire Else there would be no passing in y^e summer. This is secured by some dikes w^ch surround more grounds as y^e former, full of Rows of trees and willows round them w^ch makes Ely looke finely through those trees, and y^t stands very high. In the winter this Caussey is over flowed and they have no way but boates to pass in. They Cut peate out of some of these grounds. The raines now had fallen so as in some places near y^e Citty y^e Caussey was Covered, and a Remarkable deliverance I had, for my horse Earnest to drinke ran to get more depth of water than y^e Caussey had, was on y^e brinke of one of these dikes, but by a speciall providence w^ch I desire never to forget and allways to be thankfull for, Escaped. Y^e bridge was over the River Linn w^ch Comes from Norfolke and does almost Encompass the jsland of Ely w^ch is 20 mile in bigness, in w^ch are severall Little towns as Wisbech and many others. There is another River that joyns w^th y^e Linn w^ch Compasses this land into an jsland. At this bridge is a gate, but by reason of y^e great raines y^e roades were full of water, even quite to y^e town w^ch you ascend a very steep hill into, but y^e dirtyest place I 128ever saw, not a bitt of pitching in y^e streetes, so its a perfect quagmire y^e whole Citty, only just about y^e palace and Churches the streetes are well enough for breadth, but for want of pitching it seemes only a harbour to breed and nest vermine in of w^ch there is plenty Enough, so that tho’ my Chamber was near 20 Stepps up I had froggs and slow worms and snailes in my Roome, but suppose it was brought up w^th y^e faggotts. But it Cannot but be jnfested w^th all such things being altogether moorish ffenny ground w^ch Lyes Low: it is true were the Least Care taken to pitch their streetes it would make it Looke more properly an habitation for human beings and not a Cage or nest of unclean Creatures. It must needs be very unhealthy tho’ the natives say much to the Contrary w^ch proceeds from Custom and use, otherwise to persons born in up and dry Countryes it must destroy them Like Rotten sheep in Consumptions and Rhums.

The Bishop does not Care to stay long in this place not being for his health; he is the Lord of all the jsland, has the Command and y^e jurisdiction. They have lost their Charter and so are no Corporation but all things are directed by the Bishop and its a shame he does not see it better ordered and y^e buildings and streetes put in a better Condition. They are a slothful people and for little but y^e takeing Care of their Grounds and Cattle w^ch is of vast advantage. Where the yeares prove drye they gaine so much that in Case 6 or 7 wet yeares drown them all over, the one good yeare sufficiently Repaires their loss.

There is a good palace for the Bishop built of stone, but it was unfurnished. There are two Churches; Ely minster is a Curious pile of Building all of stone, the outside full of Carvings and great arches and fine pillars in the front, and the jnside has the greatest variety and neatness in the works. There are two Chappels most Exactly Carved in stone all sorts of figures, Cherubims Gilt and painted in some parts. Y^e Roofe of one Chappell was one Entire stone most delicately Carved, and hung down in great poynts all about y^e Church. The pillars are Carv’d and painted w^th y^e history of y^e bible, 129Especially the new testament and description of Christs miracles. The Lanthorn in y^e quire is vastly high and delicately painted and fine Carv’d worke all of wood, in it the bells used to be hung, five, the dimention of y^e biggest was so much when they rung them it shooke y^e quire so and y^e Carv’d worke that it was thought unsafe, therefore they were taken down. Its 80 odd steps to the top of y^e Lanthorn and 160 steps round in Compass. There are very good monuments and abundance of niches in the walls where Statues have been; there is one of white marble Laying at length and so Exactly Cut y^t y^e hand lookes Extreamely natural, the sinewes and veines and every turn of y^e fingers so finely done as to appear very proper. There is another that was a Bishop made by Queen Elizabeth whose garments and all are marble and so finely Embroydered Carv’d and painted and gilt and a verge all down before and Round y^e neck w^th y^e ffigures of the apostles done in Embroydery as it were, all marble very fine. There was 4 or 5 more good Marble Statues. There was on one of y^e Pillars y^e shape of y^e seameless Coate w^ch Christ wore. In another place there is a great Red Cross very high on some of y^e arches, and its very dangerous to go or Climbe round, the pillars to it being of a vast height and this used to be as a pennance to y^e people in y^e tyme of popery. There is one Chappell for Confession w^th a Roome and Chaire of State for y^e priest to set to hear y^e people on their knees Confess into his Eare through a hole in y^e wall. This Church has y^e most popish remaines in its walls of any I have seen. There still remaines a Cross over the alter; the Candlesticks are 3 quarters of a y^d high massy silver gilt very heavy. The ffont is one Entire piece of White Marble stemm and foote, the Cover was Carv’d wood w^th y^e image of Ch^sts being baptised by John and the holy Dove Descending on him, all finely Carv’d white wood w^th out any paint or varnish. They Draw up the Cover by a pully and so Let it down again w^ch shutts Close unless against raines then it swells open as it did now and I believe in y^t Citty its usually annoy’d with wet. This Cathedrall was much frequented 130by the priests in K James the Seconds tyme and many of their Relicts washed ffaire to be seen, and y^e woman told me the priest use to shew her where Every thing was, and they hoped quickly to be in possession of it, and made many promises how kind they would be to them their retainers to the Church; but blessed be God y^t put a tymely stop to the protestants utter ruin and y^e hopes of the papists. When I was upon the tower I Could see Cambridg and a great prospect of y^e Country w^ch by reason of y^e great rains just before under water, all the ffenny ground being all on a flatt unless it be one side of the town w^ch is all the high dry grounds, into w^ch they drive up their Cattle to secure them in the wet seasons. There is no tradeing in the town, their maine buissiness and dependance is on draining and fencing their Grounds and breeding and grasseing Cattle. There is a fine gate of stone arch’d Like a Church w^ch is Called the abbey, but no remaines of y^e Abby Left, only as its built into houses for the Doctors and Clergy, within which is the palace for the Bishop which is their temporall as well as spiritual prince or Lord. From this Citty I passed over those higher grounds on w^ch was some good Corn but mostly is for grass for their Cattle. You see many pretty Little towns 4 or 5 in view together 2 or 3 miles distant. I went to Sutton, one of them, 6 miles off the Citty, this was a Little Market town; thence to y^e ffenn banks on y^e top of which I Rode at Least two miles w^th y^e ffenns on both sides w^ch now were mostly under water, a vast tract of such grounds w^ch are divided by the Dikes w^th out trees, as those I observ’d before, and these high banks are made to draine and ffence out y^e water from y^e Lower grounds, and so from one banck to another w^ch are once in many acres of Land 100, so that at length it does bear off the water but in the winter it returns, so as they are forced to watch and be all wayes in repaireing those bancks; and Considering y^e vast allowance yearly for draining those fenns at least 3000^£ an. I wonder they have not perfectly runn off y^e water and so Barracadoed it as not to (?) soe it often overflows it againe as it does in many places; but they are all a lazy sort of people and are afraid to do 131too much. Here I see y^t many swans nests on Little Hillocks of Earth in the wett ground that they Look as if swimming w^th their nests, some were with their young signetts, 3 or 4 in heape w^th their damms hovering over them for their security. This brought me to the Armitage along 8 mile in all from Ely town, and here I Repass’d the River Lin on a wooden Bridge and so went out of y^e jsland of Ely w^ch was in Cambridgshire and Entred into Huntingdonshire.

There was another bridge over a deep place of y^e River under w^ch the boates and barges went, and this bridge was in the water; one must pass thro’ water to it and so beyond it a good way, and y^e Road was so full of holes and quicksands I durst not venture, y^e water Covering them over and a stranger there Cannot Easily Escape y^e danger, tho’ I see the Carryers went y^t way to save the Expense of y^e fferry, but I Rather chose to Ride round and fferry over in a boate 2 pence a horse to a Little town. This river runs along by S^t Ives w^ch was an old monastery and a Rich one. From this fferry its 8 mile to Huntington town; one goes much in sight of y^e River and y^e severall places built on its bancks w^ch Looks well—these are pretty long miles. From Huntington town I went to Stillton 9 mile more, and thence I went to y^e Citty of Peterborough in Lincolnshire w^ch was 5 long miles, the wayes deep and full of Sloughs. It stands very high and to be seen at a great distance y^e towers of y^e minster being all in view—one would think it but a quarter of a mile when you have a mile or two still to it. Y^e whole Citty Looks very well and handsomely built but mostly timber worke: you pass over a Long stone bridg. The Streetes are very clean and neate, well pitch’d and broad as one shall see any where, there is a very spacious market place, a good Cross and town Hall on the top. The Cathedrall is a magnificent building standing in the midst on advanced ground, all stone, y^e walls very neately wrought, the front is in 3 great arches full of Small stone pillars smoothly turn’d and halfe paces as it were in y^e 2 side arches, the head is w^th no high tower but 5 Little ones, 3 of w^ch in the 132middle are higher and bigger than the other; between Each are 3 peakes Like great Canteliver windows but all finely Carv’d in stone. Ye middle arch is the Entrance w^ch is Exceeding Lofty, as is the Roofe of y^e whole, and so well painted that it appears to be hollow Carving, this seems to be the two remarkable things in y^e whole. Its a spacious place, but one large jsle w^ch is in y^e middle Leading up to y^e quire, where I observed they put y^e seate of any of their deceased dignatorys of y^e Church in Black w^th an Escutcheon: here was one, so now here was y^e Statue of y^e person y^t was last abbott and first Bishop of y^e place; there was also y^e 2 monuments of 2 queens, y^t of Catherine of Spain being Harry y^e 8^ths queen, and also the statute of y^e queen Mary of Scotts that was both beheaded and buried here, and there is also y^e picture of an old man w^th y^e Inscription of y^e whole matter, w^ch was y^e Sexton and dugg both their graves. Here is a pallace for y^e Bishop, of stone Building very neate, and y^e Doctors houses, all in a space Called the Colledg—very neate but nothing Curious. The river Linn washes the town almost round; it Looks like a very jndustrious thriveing town—spinning and knitting amongst y^e ordinary people.

I went thence to Wansford and passed by M^rs S^t Johns house w^ch stands on a hill a mile from y^e town in a fine parke. There was no gate to Peterborough town and as I pass’d y^e Road I saw upon y^e walls of y^e ordinary peoples houses and walls of their out houses, y^e Cow dung plaister’d up to drie in Cakes w^ch they use for fireing, its a very offensive fewell, but y^e Country people use Little Else in these parts. Wansford is 5 mile from Peterborough, where I passed over the Bridge w^ch Entred me into Northhamptonshire, the town being part in that shire w^ch is towards London, y^e other in Lincolnshire w^ch a mile or two farther joyns w^th Rutlandshire at Stamford, w^ch town stands in y^e 3 Countyes, where I Lay at “y^e Swan in Wansford in England,” being a jest on a man makeing hay fell a sleep on a heap of it, and a great storme washed y^e Hay and man into y^e River and Carry’d him to y^e Bridge, where he awoke 133and knew not where he was, Called to y^e people in y^e grounds and told them he liv’d in a place Called Wansford in England w^ch goes for a jest on y^e men of Wansford to this Day.

Thence I went to Durant 5 miles and passed over a very good stone bridge. Here we are neare y^e quarry’s of stone, and all y^e houses and walls are built of stone as in Glocestershire. This River and bridge Enter’d me into Leicestershire w^ch is a very Rich Country—Red land, good Corne of all sorts and grass, both fields and jnclosures. You see a great way upon their hills y^e bottoms full of Enclosures, woods and different sort of manureing and Herbage, amongst w^ch are placed many little towns w^ch gives great pleasure of y^e travellers to view. Y^e miles are long but hither its pretty hard good way; to Coppingham 5 mile more w^ch is a neate market town. Satturday is their market w^ch is very good affording great quantetyes of Corn, Leather garne and Cattle; such a Concourse of people y^t my Landlord told me he used to have 100 horse set up at his jnn, and there were many publick houses. Here you see very Large fine sheep and very good land, but very deep bad roads. From hence to Leister w^ch they Call but 13 miles, but y^e longest 13 I ever went and y^e most tiresome being full of sloughs, y^t I was near 11 hours going but 25 mile, as they Reckon it, between Wansford and Leicester town—a footman Could have gone much faster than I Could Ride. Their fewell here is as I said but Cowdung or Coale w^ch they are supplyed with out of Warwickshire. Leicester town stands on the Side of a little riseing Ground, tho’ at a distance from y^e adjacent hills it Looks Low, but its a good prospect. It has 4 gates, y^e streetes are pretty Large and well pitch’d, there are five parishes; the Market place is a Large space very handsome w^th a good Market Cross and town hall. Y^e river Sow w^ch runs into y^e river Reeke and both Empts themselves into y^e Trent. Trent to y^e Bow Bridge w^ch is one arch over into y^e Priory, w^ch King Rich^d y^e third pass’d over out of y^e Priory when he went to fight in Bosworth field w^th King Henry the seventh, but the stone he struck his heele at and against, w^th w^ch his head was 134struck at his return when brought athwart the horse Dead, I Could not see it, being removed, but I saw a piece of his tombstone he Lay in, w^ch was Cut out in exact form for his body to Lye in; y^t remains to be seen at y^e Greyhound in Leaster but is partly broken. There I saw a piece of y^e jury wall as its Called being in arches and was a place where the Jews burnt their sacrifices.

There are two Hospitalls, one for old men y^e other women 24 in number; they are allowed 2^s : 8^d p^r weeke, Candle, fewell oatmeale, butter and salt. I saw the Library w^ch is pretty large, there was two Large Divinity Books the arch-Bishop gave them lately, and the names of all their Benefactors; there was one book all written hand by a scribe before printing was found out, it was a fine vellum; and there was another Book of y^e New Testament in Chineaze Language and Characteur. Y^e town is old timber building Except one or two of Brick. There is Indeed that they Call y^e Newark w^ch is Encompass’d w^th a wall of a good thickness and two great gates w^th towers as the town gates are, in w^ch they keep their arms and amunition. Y^e walls now are only to secure gardens that are made of y^e ruin’d places that were buildings of strength. In this Newark w^ch is a large space of ground are severall good houses some of stone and Brick In which some Lawyers Live ffrank; there is also a new pile of Building all of Brick w^ch is the Guild Hall where y^e assizes are kept twice in y^e yeare and y^e session quarterly.

S^t Martins Church w^ch is one of y^e biggest—there is none very big and none fine—but here I saw Hyricks tomb who was major of y^e town and was married to one wife 52 years in all, w^ch tyme he buried neither man woman or Child tho’ most tymes he had 20 in his family, his age was 79 and his widdow 97 at her death, she saw 142 of her posterity together. They have a water-house and a water mill to turn y^e water in deep Leaden tubbs or Cisterns for their use: there are wells in some streetes to draw water by a hand wheele for y^e Common use of the town.

The major and alderman goes about in procession on Holy Thursday which was y^e day I was there. Here are a 135great many descenters in this town. This Country as I s^d was all Rich deep land, and they plough their land all w^th ploughs w^th out wheeles as they do in Oxfordshire and other deep lands. From thence I passed to Bosworth 8 miles, and went by a Gentlemans house and thro’ a little parke where the deer were very tame, and passed through Bosworth and over y^e ground where was y^e battle between King Richard y^t Lost his Life by y^e hand of y^e Earle of Richmond afterwards King Henry y^e Seventh, who was Crown’d in this Bosworth field w^th y^e Crown taken off from King Richards head, who being dead was Ignominiously Cast aCross a horse and Carried to Leicester and buried there as a just judgm^t of God for Killing his two nephews and reigning in their stead.

This is a great flatt full of good Enclosures. Near this is Narsby where was y^e great battle fought between King Charles y^e First and y^e parliam^t of England. From thence I went to Fallmouth 7 miles more and so into Warwickshire over a bridge. This is a little market town; thence 3 miles more to Tamworth a neate town built of Brick and mostly new; in sight at its approach it look’d like Litchfield but not a quarter so big a market town, it stands halfe in Warwickshire and halfe in Staffordshire, and so to Litchfield over a large stone bridg that Crosses y^e Tamworth river that gives name to y^e town. To Litchfield is 5 mile more all very good way mostly Gravel; I went it in an hour. This side Entring y^e town I Came by a Large good Almshouse w^ch I saw not before. They have in this town a Custome at Whitsontide y^e Monday and Tuesday Call’d y^e green Bower feast, by which they hold their Charter. The Bailiff and Sheriff assist at y^e Cerimony of dressing up Baby’s w^th garlands of flowers and Carry it in procession through all y^e streetes, and then assemble themselves at y^e Market place and so go on in a solemn procession through the great streete to a hill beyond y^e town where is a Large Bower made w^th greens in w^ch they have their feast. Many lesser Bowers they make about for Conveniency of y^e Whole Company and for selling fruite Sweetemeetes and Gingerbread w^ch is a Chief Entertainment.

136 Thence I went to Woolsely 7 mile farther, to S^r Charles Woolsley where I staid 6 weekes it being my aunt his Lady who Engaged my stay. His seate stands very finely by y^e river Trent; there is also a moate almost round ye house. Y^e house is old timble building, only a Large parlour and noble stair Case w^th handsome Chambers S^r Charles has new built. It is built round a Court w^th a gate house w^ch Leads to y^e outward Court that has a paved walke, broad stone y^e same as y^e first Court is paved with.

There are green spaces and a fine green banck w^th box or philteroy hedge Cut round. There are very good gardens abundance of fruite of all sorts and y^e ffinest dwarfe trees I ever saw, so thick like a hedge and a huge Compass Every single tree, and very full of fruite of apples, pears and Cherries; there are fine flowers, Heber roses white and yellow; there was a fine Sena trees y^t bears a great Branch of yellow fflowers. Y^e ground Lyes all well about y^e house and a fine park by the End of it, part of w^ch is on a high hill y^e side of w^ch the deer sport themselves, w^ch looks just on y^e house and is wonderfull pleasant: its a Large parke 6 miles round full of stately woods and replenish’d w^th red and fallow deer, one part of it is pretty full of Billberryes w^ch thrive under y^e shade of y^e oakes, its a black berry as big as a large pea and are Ripe about Harvest. There is a very ill Custome amongst them now not to be broken, when they are Ripe. The Country Comes and makes Boothes and a sort of faire y^e outside of y^e parke, and so gather y^e berries and sell y^m about y^e Country. The greenes they Call Wissums and on these wissums the Deer Brouse in y^e winter and on holly of which there is great quantetys. In Kankwood just by there is also great quantety’s of fferne w^ch tho’ it over runs their ground and so spoiles y^e grass where its much, yet y^e usefullness of it renders it necessary to be preserv’d; when it is at its maturity w^ch happens just before harvest or hay tyme, y^e whole Country are Employ’d in Cutting it up and burning it in heapes for y^e sake of y^e ashes w^ch they make fine and Rowle them up in Balls and so sell them or use them all y^e year for washing and scouring, and send much up to 137London, y^e ashe balls being Easily sent about, without w^ch they would have no ashes in the Country for such uses; for their fewell is altogether Coales w^ch Indeed are very good and plenty, you might have a load for 3 or 4 shillings brought home y^t would serve a poore mans familly y^e winter. Its in great pieces and so Cloven burns light so as the poorer sort works by it and so it serves for heate and light: its very shineing Coale all about this Country tho’ they Complaine they have lost y^e vein of the best sort w^ch they Call Channell Coale and is y^e sort they have still in Wales and Lancashire w^ch burnt much Lighter and less waste, but this I thought to be very good, no better than it. I have in London given 40^s for such a Load.

In this parke is severall ponds w^ch affords good ffish, as does y^e moate and y^e Trent as trout, Eeles, tench, perch &c, the Largest perch I ever saw just Caught and dress’d immediately w^ch Eates in perfection. Y^e hill in y^e parck Called Hartshill is so high that from y^e top of it you see near 20 miles round, and shews all y^e Country w^ch in this part of Staffordshire is full of woods and jnclosures and good land, Except y^e Kanck-wood w^ch is but a barren heath ground, but good wood—its fine for Hawking in y^e heath. Its full of little Brookes and Rivulets w^ch abounds with Crawfish and they were the sweetest and Largest I have seen any where. From hence to Stafford town is 5 mile—you go by y^e banck of y^e Trent most of y^e way and passing over two Rivers on stone bridges, Called y^e Sore and the Pink w^ch both Empt themselves into y^e Trent and so Enter y^e town through a gate. Its an old built town, timber and plaister pretty much, in Long peaked Rooffes of tileing; 3 gates to the town—there was another w^ch Leads to the Castle w^ch now is ruinated, and only remaines on a hill the fortification trenches y^t are grown over w^th green. Y^e streetes are pretty Large and well pitched; a broad space for y^e market place Wherein is a good Market house on stone pillars w^th a handsome town hall over it—some of the houses are pretty good. This Country is much for Entertainments, in every house you must Eate and drinke.

138 From thence back to Woolsley againe 5 miles, from thence to Heywood parke w^ch was 2 mile where Lived a Daughter of my aunt Woolsley—marryed M^r Hedgewood—a little neate box they Live in.

From thence back againe 2 miles. To the Kank wood is pleasant Rideing, its 20 mile long belongs to y^e Lord Paget, there are 4 lodges; in it a great deale of wood and deer and goates. I went to Ffurnes Coppice w^ch is 4 mile—on it a fine Covert of tall trees on a hill and a mile farther was a fine wood Called Hedgford; Poole a quarter of a mile long full of good fish; thence home 5 mile. Another day I went to Stiles Coppice 3 mile off w^ch is on a high hill and a fine tufft of trees, it Looks but Little at a distance but is a fine Covert for y^e sheep and Cattle: I went quite round it from whence Could see y^e Country a good distance and see into 7 Countys together, Warwickshire, Leicestershire Glocestershire Derbyshire Staffordshire Shropshire and Cheshire; so home againe by Ridgly a mile aboute so it was 4 mile.

Another day I went to Boudezworth the Lord Pagets house 4 mile off, and passed by y^e Coale pitts where they were digging: they draw up the Coale in baskets with a Little wheele or Windlass like a well—its very good.

Lord Paget’s house is old Brick built, y^e ffront is uniforme and very handsome with towers, but there is no good roome but a Long gallery thats worth seeing: its a fine parke; just by it is a high hill on w^ch is the remaines of an old ffortification, they Call it the Castle wall, its of very great antiquity but now grown over w^th grass; from thence the prospect of the Country is great. The parke is of Large Extent and some of those pitts are in it—y^e Channell Coales, but y^e water has over flow’d some of them and spoyl’d their digging; thence I went home againe 4 miles—Another day I went to Panckeridge race over y^e Kankwood 7 mile, where were most of y^e Gentlemen and Ladies of the Country, severall Coaches and six horses, Indeed y^e miles are Long and y^e wayes bad in the winter that obliges them to drive more horses; these were persons of good Estates also. There appear’d only one horse to run for y^e plaite which 139was a salver; thence to Woolesley again 7 mile more. Its a fine Country here about for Rideing one has a pleaseing prospect Every way Especially on any advanc’d ground.

I went to Brinsy Coppice w^ch was 4 mile, thence Could see towards Shrewsbury and y^e high hill the Reekee, and in a Cleare day Could see something of Chester, and so home againe 4 mile more. Another day I went upon Jtching hill 1 mile w^ch is a sort of Rock, but y^e stone is of a Red Coullour and looks Like a sandy stone by its Moldring, but they tell me when its wrought in a wall and have been season’d w^th y^e weather it grows very hard and serviceable in building. From thence I went a Compass round to Heywood parke 4 mile off and yⁿ home againe 2 miles; and another day I went the same tour about to Heywood parke and back w^ch was 6 mile more. While I stay’d at Woolsley I went directly to Heywood parke above what I mentioned before and returned home w^ch was in all 8 miles, and another day I went to a poole in the Kanckwood 3 mile to ffish and from thence to Heywood parke thro’ a very fine Coppice of trees on a hanging brow of a hill w^ch Look’d very fine, and so home 2 mile more. I name y^e number of miles I went only to see y^e whole accō of miles I travell’d this yeare. These Coppices there are many of them w^ch is a good shelter for y^e Cattle.

Another journey to Darby town from Woolsley by Colton and Blithbery 3 mile, thence to Yoxwell 3 mile over Nedwood forest of y^e King, w^ch is 40 mile in Extent, all y^e way you have a fine prospect of y^e Country, Enclosed good lands, admirable Corne of all sorts, good grass: I went in sight of Tetbery Castle w^ch is y^e Kings—a great ffortification, but all decay’d—here 4 mile more and there it was that I pass y^e river Dove on a stone Bridge Called Dovebridge w^ch Enters me into Darbyshire and thence its 8 mile more to Darby town.

Darby town Lies down in a bottom built all of brick or for y^e most part; in it are 5 Churches built of stone y^e biggest of w^ch I was in, y^e tower was finely Carv’d full of niches and Pedistals where on Statues had been set, but nothing worth notice in y^e jnside except a monument w^ch 140was over y^e vault of y^e Duke of Devonshire, on w^ch stands 2 Effigees at length all of white marble y^e Earle and his Countess of Devonshire w^th an arch or Cannopy of Stone over their heads; this is rail’d in w^th Iron gates. There is also another statue of marble painted and Gilded lying at length w^ch is also railed in. Y^e River Derwent runns by the town and turns many mills, and y^e water Engine w^ch turns y^e water into y^e pipes that serves y^e town, y^e same wheele grinds also, but they do it for a half penny a strike w^ch is the same measure as our Bushill. At this Engine they Can grind if its never so high a flood, w^ch hinders all y^e other from working at y^e flood, they are quite Choaked up, but this they Can set higher or lower just as the water is. There are bays w^ch they make w^th stones to keep the water to run to y^e mill and thence it falls againe into y^e Derwent; there is also a fine stone Conduit in the Market place, w^ch is very spacious, well pitch’d a good Market Cross. This is a dear place for strangers notwithstanding y^e plentyfullness of all provision. My Dinner Cost me 5^s and 8^d, only 2 servant men w^th me and I had but a shoulder of mutton and bread and beer.

Here they mak great quantetys of gloves, I did not observe or Learn any other trade or Manufacture, they had only shops of all sorts of things. They Carry much of their Carriages on sledges to secure their pitching in the streetes. Thence I went to Chartly 6 mile Lord Fferrers, and thence Bradby Lord Chesterfields, and passed by a fine parke of some Gentlemans in w^ch was a summer house on y^e side of y^e hill amongst fine tall trees w^ch Look’d very well, and on y^e Right hand I turned up to y^e Earle of Chesterfields parke full of fine Rows of trees running up y^e avenue to y^e house. One Enters an outward Court and drives round a Little pond like a ditch all pav’d w^th stone, or great basin of stone, in which were two swans swimming about in y^t little Compass; y^e gates are all jron barrs and the whole front of y^e house open jron pallasadoe spikes in a Compass round Like a half moone. Answerable to y^t beyond y^e stable yard is another such a demy Circle of open pallasadoe, y^t lets you out to y^e prospect of y^e grounds 141beyond, full of regular Rows of trees. Y^e house has a visto quite thro’ by a glass bellcony door into y^e gardens, and so to y^e parke beyond on y^t side. Y^e front have something surpriseing in it; its all of free stone w^ch is dipt in oyle that adds a varnish to its Lustre as well as security to its foundation. Y^e Roofe is not flatt as our Modern buildings so y^e garret windows Come out on y^e tileing w^ch is all flatt None of y^e windows are sashes which in my opinion is y^e only thing it wants to render it a Compleate building: its halfe a roman H. There is an ascent of 5 or 6 steps all stone to y^e gates, and so you proceed on a broad paved walke w^ch is divided by a Cross walke of y^e same towards y^e upper End; thence y^e ascent by as many more stone steps into a noble hall y^t has a Row of white marble pillars at y^e upper End. Y^e middle a Little roome w^th a marble table in the middle w^ch is y^e Balcony into y^e Garden, but y^ts without Steps down into y^e Garden. From these Rows of Pillars on y^e Right hand runs a passage to y^e Servants roome and all the offices, and at y^e End is a Chappell w^ch was very neate. Over y^e alter is a large ovall of Glass of y^e sort of Private glass used in Windows to obscure y^e Sight from without, but hinders not y^e Light w^th inside; this Look’d pretty as being particular and uncomon.

There was a little organ and Closets for y^e Lord and Ladies to sitt in. From y^e hall on the left hand Enters into a Large roome w^th a billiard table, from thence into a Large parlour and 2 drawing-roomes,—there was a good dineing roome. Above, y^e drawing Roome had Company in it, y^e Earle having just marry’d his Eldest daughter Lady Mary to one M^r Cooke a Gentleman of a good Estate hard by, so there was Company to wishe her joy; but I was in severall bed Chambers, one had a Crimson damaske bed, y^e other Crimson velvet set upon halfe paces: this best was y^e bride Chamber w^ch used to be Call’d y^e Silver roome where y^e stands, table, and fire utensills were all massy silver, but when plaite was in nomination to pay a tax, y^e Earle of Chesterfield sold it all and y^e plaite of y^e house, so that when y^e table was spread I saw only spoones, salts and forks and y^e side board plaite, noe plaites or dishes and but few salvers. 142Ye pictures was all burnt by a fire and so there are only bare walls. One Roome was painted over head—y^e others frettwork, but y^t w^ch is most admired, and justly so to be by all persons, and Excite their Curiosity to Come and see is y^e gardens and waterworks. Out of y^e Billiard Roome y^e first was with Gravell walks, and a large fountaine in the middle with flower potts and Greens set Round y^e Brimm of y^e fountaines that are paved w^th stone. You see but one garden at a tyme. The Pipes in y^e fountaines play very finely, some of a great height, some fflushes y^e water about; then you Come to a descent of severall steps w^ch discovers anoth^r fine garden w^th fountaines playing through pipes besett on y^e branches w^th all sort of Greens and flower trees, dwarfe honeysuckles in a Round tuff growing upright, and all sorts of flower trees and greens finely Cutt and Exactly kept. In one garden there are 3 fountaines wherein stands great statues; Each side on their pedistalls is a dial one for y^e Sun y^e other a Clock w^ch by y^e water worke is moved and strikes y^e hours, and Chimes y^e quarters, and when they please play Lilibolaro on y^e Chimes: all this I heard when I was there. On one side of this garden is a half Compass w^th a breast wall on w^ch are high jron pallisadoes divided with severall Pillars, stone with Images on their tops about 2 yards distance; this opens to view y^e parke and a sort of Cannall or pond w^ch is in it of a good bigness. Beyond this Garden is a Row of orange and Lemon trees set in y^e ground, of a man’s height and pretty big, full of flowers and some Large fruit almost Ripe: this has a pent house over it w^ch is Cover’d up very Close in the winter. This Leads on to a great wilderness and Just by it is another Square w^th a fountaine whose brim is deck’d with flower potts full of flowers and all sorts of greens; on Either side is 2 or 3 rows of orange and Lemon trees in boxes one below another in growth.

Just against this is a wall Cover’d over w^th Lawrell finely Cutt, and also in y^e middle is an arch, and on Either side stone staires ascends it w^ch terminate in a sort of half pace all Cover’d over w^th Lawrell, and this Enters a doore into another Garden through a little garden house. This also 143has a fine fountaine Like y^e others, only as most of y^e others was green walks this was Gravell, so was the garden on y^e Right side of y^e house. Ye front Garden w^ch has y^e Largest fountaine has also a fine Green house and very fine flowers, and y^e beds and borders are Cut in severall formes; y^e Greens are very fine and y^e hedges Cutt in severall formes; there was one tree not much unlike y^e Cyprus green but y^e branches were more spread and of a Little yellower green, y^e Barke of y^e Limbs yellow—it was y^e Cedar of Lebonus. There was also fine strip’d stocks, Double Like a Rose. There was a Large Ewe tree in y^e middle of one Garden Cut in forms, fine ffirrs and Cyprus and ffilleroy of w^ch some was striped Like silver, white, others yellow Like Gold, w^ch gave them their different names, and fine gilded and striped Hollys.

There was one green in a pott Call’d S^t John y^e baptists herb, it was full of many Leaves and y^e Coullour not much unlike the green they Call Solomons Seale but longer and bigger Leaves; its an annual plant. Here just by y^e wilderness is y^e tulip tree w^ch runns up of a great height and y^e flower is on y^e top; it flowers in August. There is a great avery of Birds w^ch stands Like a sumer house open; there is also many Close averys of Birds and severall Green shady walks and Close arbours. There are very fine woodbines grows like tuffs all in flower Red and white. There is some of y^e fountaines that have figures in them that throws up water a greate height—a Cascade of water.

Then I returned into y^e hall and so into a Coole roome in w^ch was a fountaine where I dranke a Glass of wine and so proceeded. This was 3 miles from Chartry, thence through a fine visto or Glide of trees w^ch runs along y^e parke and so to Burton on y^e Trent 2 long miles. This is a pretty large town; here is a very long stone bridge over y^e Trent: the Streetes are very well pitch’d and some very broad.

Thence over Nedwood fforest 6 mile, and thence to Yoxsell, w^ch is 6 mile more to Woolsley and they are all Long miles; then I went againe to Stafford town 5 miles and from thence to Jnstree M^r Thetwins—its bad way. 144You go by S^t Thomas’s w^ch was some old abbey—its still a good house.

Going along y^e side of y^e hill gives a great view of y^e Country that is mostly jnclosures we passed between two parkes, y^e one is Lord astons, and goe in sight of Tixall hall w^ch is a good house and Looks handsomely of stone building: the other was M^r Thetwins parke w^ch has fine Rows of trees—ffirrs Scots and Noroway and y^e picanther—the ffront lookes nobly. Noe flatt Roofed houses in this Country but much in windows. Two Large bow windows on Each side runns up y^e whole building, y^e middle the same besides much flatt window between, so that y^e whole is Little besides window. Its built brick and stone, the part to y^e garden ward is new building of y^e new fashion and sash windows. Y^e Court is 2 or 5 stepps up w^th open jron pallasadoes y^e breadth of y^e house and a broad paved walk w^ch Leads up to y^e doore in the Middle. Y^e visto is quite through y^e house to y^e gardens and through a long walke of trees of a mile through the parke to a Lodge or summer house at y^e End, w^ch Lookes very finely, it being a Riseing ground up to y^e parke. There is a Crosse paved walke in y^e Court w^ch Leads to a little house on Each End like summer houses, w^th towers and balls on y^e top; y^e one Leads through to y^e Churchyard w^ch is planted w^th Rows of Ewe trees very uniforme and Cutt neately. Y^e Church is new and very handsome, good frettworke on y^e top, the wood worke well Carv’d, its seates good wanscoate and with locks.

In the Chancell are two monuments of Marble, one all white, y^e other white with a border Black, and with white pillars; the middle at y^e bottom is alabaster. The pillars of y^e Church is made of y^e Red stone w^ch is plenty in this Country and they are all polished over; the ffront is all white marble; stem y^e same veined bleu, y^e foot is black, y^e Cover is wood Carv’d very well. The porch is very high on w^ch is a dyal, it almost breakes ones neck to Looke up at it for y^t y^e tower in w^ch are 5 bells. There is just against this a garden.

On y^e other side the dwelling house w^ch is severall steps 145up it—Gravell walkes full of flowers and greens and a box hedge Cut finely with Little trees, some Cut round, and another hedge of strip’d holly Cut Even and some of Lawrell Cut Even Likewise. Out of this you go into a flower garden divided into knotts, in which were 14 Cyprus trees w^ch were grown up very tall some of them, and kept Cutt Close in four squares down to y^e bottom. Towards y^e top they Enclined to a point or spire. Thence into another garden w^th gravell walkes, and so into a summer house through w^ch you Enter a good Bowling green, w^ch also goes out of another garden, w^ch takes in y^e whole breadth of y^e house and is full of flowers and greens and dwarfe trees and little borders of Severall sorts of greens Cut Even and Close, of tyme, severall sorts and of savin w^ch is another Coullour, and of Lavender Cotten another Coullour, and Rosemary and severall others. From this Bowling green in y^e Middle you descend 18 stepps in a Demi Circle inwards halfe way, then y^e stones are set round and so y^e half pace is, and y^e other stepps are Round turned outward, and y^e Lowest much y^e Largest as was y^e uppermost of y^e first. This leads to a place designed for ponds to keep ffish in but this place will not admitt of any water works altho’ its a deep Dirty Country. They neither have good gravell or marle to make a pond secure to hold water, nor are they near Enough y^e springs, but are forced to be supply’d w^th water by pipes from y^e River trent that is a mile off, and yet the whole place seems a quage, and when one is descended y^e hill this seemes to be the only thing wanting, for just by the Bowling-green is a very fine wilderness with many Large walks of a great Length full of all sorts of trees, scycamores, willows, Hazel, Chesnutts, walnuts, set very thicke and so shorn smooth to y^e top w^ch is left as a tuff or Crown—they are very Lofty in growth w^ch makes y^e Length of a walke Look Nobly. There is also a Row on y^e outside of firrs round Every grove 2 yards or 3 distant—some silver ffirrs—some Norroway—some Scotts and pine trees: these hold their beauty round y^e groves in y^e winter when y^e others Cast their Leaves. This was from Stafford 3 mile and to Woolsley was 1463 mile more through narrow stoney Lanes through great Heywood.

Att Jnstree, M^r Shetwins, I saw a fine pomegranate tree as tall as myself, the Leafe is a long slender Leafe of a yellowish green Edged w^th red and feeles pretty thicke, y^e Blossom is white and very double. There was a terrass walke in one of y^e Gardens that gave y^e full prospect of y^e Country a great way about—its a deep Country—you are going these 3 miles to Woolsley a great while. There was at S^r Charles Woolsly’s some of y^e best good land and some of y^e worst, as is y^e Kankwood, but here y^e Roads are pretty good and hard w^ch makes it pleasant. There is much fine fruite here S^r Charles takeing great delight in his Gardens, I must say I never saw trees so well dress’d and pruned, y^e walls so Equally Cover’d as there. There is severall sorts of strawbery’s but y^e vermillion is y^e finest, very large as any Garden strawbery and of a fine scarlet Coullour, but its a Later sort; there was a pretty almond tree in Bloome y^e flower not unlike a Rosemary flower. From thence I tooke my progress Northward and went from hence to NewCastle under Line, through Stone w^ch was 9 miles, and then to Trentum, and passed by a great house of M^r Leveston Gore, and went on the side of a high hill below which the River Trent rann and turn’d its silver streame forward and backward into s. s w^ch Looked very pleasant Circleing about y^e fine meadows in their flourishing tyme bedecked w^th hay almost Ripe and flowers. 6 mile more to NewCastle under Line where is the fine shineing Channell Coale; so y^e proverb to both y^e New-Castles of bringing Coales to y^m is a needless Labour, one being famous for this Coale thats Cloven and makes white ashes as is this, and y^e NewCastle on y^e Tyne is for y^e sea Coale y^t Cakes and is what is Common and famillier to every smith in all villages. I went to this NewCastle in Staffordshire to see the makeing of y^e fine tea potts. Cups and saucers of y^e fine red Earth in imitation and as Curious as y^t w^ch Comes from China, but was defeated in my design, they Comeing to an End of their Clay they made use of for y^t sort of ware, and therefore was remov’d to some other 147place where they were not settled at their work so Could not see it; therefore I went on to Beteby 6 miles farther and went by a Ruinated Castle y^e walls still remaining Called Healy Castle—this was deep Clay way. This town is halfe in Staffordshire and halfe in Cheshire, one side of y^e streete in y^e one, and y^e other in y^e latter, so y^t they often jest on it in travelling one wheele goes in Staffordshire y^e other wheele in Cheshire.

Here is a great mer or standing water 2 miles Compass—great store of good fish; it belongs to one M^r Egerton: thence I went to Nantwitch 5 long miles. Nantwitch is a pretty large town and well built: here are y^e salt springs of w^ch they make salt and many salterns w^ch were a boyling y^e salt. This is a pretty Rich land; you must travell on a Causey; I went 3 miles on a Causey through much wood. Its from Nantwitch to Chester town 14 long miles, y^e wayes being deep: its much on Enclosures and I passed by severall large pooles of waters, but what I wonder’d at was y^t tho’ this shire is remarkable for a greate deale of greate Cheeses and Dairys I did not see more than 20 or 30 Cowes in a troope feeding, but on Enquiry find y^e Custome of y^e Country to joyn their milking together of a whole village and so make their great Cheeses. West Chester town lies in a bottom and runs a greate length and is pretty big—there are 10 Churches.

The Cathedrall is Large and Lofty, y^e quire well Carv’d, fine tapistry hangings at y^e alter, a good organ: The Bishops pallace is on the Right hand of it and the Doctors houses, all built of Stone. There is a new hall building w^ch is for y^e assize and it stands on great Stone pillars w^ch is to be y^e exchange w^ch will be very Convenient and handsome; the hall is round, its built of Bricke and Stone Coynes, there are Leads all round w^th battlements and in the middle is a tower, there are ballconies on y^e Side and windows quite round y^e Cupillow that shews y^e whole town round. There is another town hall—a long Lofty place, and another by the Side w^ch is Called the Councill Roome both for y^e Major and Aldermen to meete for y^e buissinesse of y^e Corporation. Y^e town is walled all aboute w^th battlem^ts and 148a walke all round pav’d w^th stone, I allmost Encompass’d y^e walls. Ye streetes are of a greate breadth, but there is one thing takes much from their appeareing so and from their beauty, for on each side in most places they have made penthouses so broad set on pillars w^ch persons walk under Covert, and is made up and down steps under which are ware houses. Tho’ a penthouse or pallasadoe be convenient for security from y^e sun or weather and were it no broader than for two to passe one by y^e other it would be well and No dissight to y^e grace of y^e Streetes, but this does darken y^e streetes and hinder y^e Light of y^e houses in many places to y^e streete ward below, indeed in some places were it only before y^e Chiefe persons houses it would be Convenient where its flatt and Even w^th the streetes. The town is mostly timber buildings, the trade and Concourse of people to it is Chiefly from the jntercourse it has with Ireland—most take this passage; and also y^e jntercourse w^th Wales w^ch is parted from it and England by y^e river Dee w^ch washes y^e Castle Walls in w^ch they keep their Stores, but nothing fine in it. The walls and towers seemes in good repaire. At the End of y^e town just by the Castle you Crosse over a very large and Long Bridge over the River Dee w^ch has the tyde Comes up much beyond the town; its 7 mile off y^t it falls into y^e sea, but its very broad below y^e town, when at high tyde is like a very broad sea: there they have a little Dock and build shipps of 200 tunn, I saw some on the stocks.

Cross this River by this Bridge Enters Fflintshire and so Crossed over y^e marches w^ch is hazardous to strangers, therefore M^r W^m Allen—w^ch was y^e major of Chester that time and gave me a very Civil treate being an acquaintance of my Brother S^r Edmund Harrison—so order’d his son and another Gentleman to Ride w^th me to Direct, to Harding w^ch was 5 miles. Just by that was a very fine new built house of Brick and in y^e Exact forme of y^e London Architecture w^ch was this M^r Majors house and good gardens.

Att Harding, where was my Relation D^r Percivalls wife who was Minister of y^t place: his parish was 8 miles in Extent and 2 lordships in it, and y^e ruines of two great 149Castles in it remaines—its good Rich Land here, much on Enclosures and woods.

In a tarresse walke in my Relations garden I could very plainly see Chester and y^e River Dee with all its Washes over the Marsh ground w^ch look’d very finely: here are sands w^ch makes it very difficult for strangers to passe w^th out a guide. From hence my Relation Carry’d me to Holly Well and pass’d thro’ Flint town w^ch is the shire town 5 mile from harding; its a very Ragged place many villages in England are better, y^e houses all thatched and stone walls, but so decay’d that in many places Ready are to tumble down. There was a town hall such a one as it was; it was at a Session tyme wⁿ I was there w^ch shew’d it at its Prime. There is a Castle w^ch still remaines w^th its towers built of stone, its down to y^e water side: from thence to Holy well is 3 mile mostly by y^e water side w^ch is Reckon’d the sea—here I went just in sight of high Lake where were many shipps Rideing along that harbour.

S^t Winfreds Well is built over w^th stone on Pillars Like a Tryumphall arch or tower on y^e gates of a Church, there is a pavem^t of stone w^th in—round 3 sides of y^e well w^ch is joyn’d on y^e fourth side by a great arch of stone w^ch Lies over y^e water y^t runs of from y^e well; its many springs w^ch bubbles up very fast and Lookes Cleane in a Compass w^ch is 8 square walled in w^th stone. In y^e bottom w^ch you see as Clear as Chrystall are 9 stones Layd in an oval on w^ch are dropps of Red Coullour some almost quite Covering the top of y^e stone, w^ch is pretended to be y^e blood of this holy saint whose head was struck off here and so where her body Laid this spring burst forth and remaines till now a very Rapid Current, w^ch runs off from this well under a barre by w^ch there are stone stepps for y^e persons to descend w^ch will bathe themselves in the well, and so they walke along y^e Streame to the other End and then come out, but there is nothing to Shelter them but are Exposed to all the Company that are walking about y^e well and to y^e Little houses and part of y^e Streete w^ch runs along by it but y^e Religeuse are not to mind it, it seemes the saint they do honour to in this place 150must beare them out in all things. They tell of many lameness’s and aches and distempers w^ch are Cured by it, its a Cold water and Cleare and runs off very quick so y^t it would be a pleasant refreshm^t in y^e sumer to washe ones self in it, but its shallow not up to y^e Waste so its not Easye to Dive and washe in, but I thinke I Could not have been persuaded to have gone in unless I might have had Curtains to have drawn about some part of it to have shelter’d from y^e Streete, for y^e wett garments are no Covering to y^e body; but there I saw abundance of y^e devout papists on their Knees all round a well. Poor people are deluded into an jgnorant blind zeale and to be pity’d by us y^t have the advantage of knowing better and ought to be better. There is some stones of a Reddish Coullour in y^e well s^d to be some of S^t Winifred’s blood also, w^ch y^e poore people take out and bring to y^e strangers for Curiosity and Relicts, and also moss about y^e bancks full of great virtue for Every thing. But its a Certaine gaine to y^e poore people—every one gives them something for bringing them moss and y^e stones, but lest they should in length of tyme be quite gather’d up they take Care to replenish it dayly from some mossy hill and so stick it along y^e sides of y^e well—there is good streames runs from it and by meanes of steepe descent runs down and turns mills. They come also to drinke of y^e water w^ch they take up in y^e first square w^ch is walled round and where the springs Rise and they say its of wonder full operation. Y^e taste to me was but like good spring water w^ch w^th wine and sugar and Lemons might make a pleasant Draught after walking amongst those shady trees of w^ch there is a great many and some straight and tall like a grove but not very uniforme. From thence I went back to Harding w^ch is 8 very Long Miles. At Holly well they speake Welsh; the inhabitants go barefoote and bare leg’d—a nasty sort of people. Their meate is very small here, Mutton is noe bigger than Little Lamb, what of it there is was sweete; their wine good being Neare y^e Sea side, and are well provided with ffish—very good Salmon and Eeles and other ffish I had at Harding. This shire is improperly 151Called Fflintshire there being noe flints in all y^e Country. There are great Coale pitts of the Channell Coale thats Cloven huge great pieces: they have great wheeles that are turned w^th horses y^t draw up the water and so draine the Mines w^ch would Else be over flowed so as they Could not dig the Coale; they have also Engines y^t draw up their Coale in sort of baskets Like hand barrows w^ch they wind up like a Bucket in a well, for their mines are dug down through a sort of well and sometymes its pretty Low before they Come to y^e Coales; it makes y^e Road unsafe because of y^e Coale pitts and also from y^e Sloughs and quicksands, all here about being mostly near y^e bancks of y^e water. In this Country are quarrys of Stone, Copper and Iron Mines and salt hills, its a hilly place, very steep descents and great many very high hills, but I went not so farre as Pen Ma Mower but Cross’d y^e river Dee haveing first went two mile by these Coale mines (at least 10) in a place (?) its a thing w^ch holds neer two bushell that is their Basket they draw up w^ch is bought for 6 pence. I forded over y^e Dee when y^e tide was out all upon the sands at Least a mile, w^ch was as smooth as a Die being a few hours left of y^e flood. Y^e sands are here soe Loose y^t the tydes does move them from one place to another at Every flood, y^t the same place one used to ffoard a month or two before is not to be pass’d now, for as it brings the sands in heaps to one place so it leaves others in deep holes w^ch are Cover’d w^th water and Loose sand that would swallow up a horse or Carriages; so I had two Guides to Conduct me over. The Carriages w^ch are used to it and pass Continually at y^e Ebbs of water observes y^e drift of sands and so Escape y^e danger. It was at least a mile I went on y^e sands before I Came to y^e middle of y^e Channell w^ch was pretty deep and with such a Current or tyde w^ch was falling out to sea together w^th y^e wind, the horses feete could scarce stand against it, but it was but narrow just the deep part of the Channell and so soone over. When the tyde is fully out they frequently fford in many places w^ch they marke as the sands fall and Can go near 9 or 10 mile over y^e sands from Chester to Burton or to Flint town almost; but many 152persons that have known the ffoards well y^t have Come a year or halfe a year after, if they venture on their former knowledge have been overwhelm’d in the Ditches made by y^e sands w^ch is deep Enough to swallow up a Coach or waggon; but they Convey their Coales from Wales and any other things by waggon when the tyde is out to Chester and other parts. From Burton w^ch was on y^e side of England the shore, I went to y^e fferry 9 miles to the river Meresy another great River and a perfect sea for 20 mile or more. It Comes out of Lancashire from Warrington and both this and y^e Dee Empts themselves into y^e sea almost together a few Leagues from Leverpoole, w^ch poole is form’d by a poynt of land that runs almost round the Entrance from y^e sea, being narrow and hazardous to strangers to saile in in the winter. Y^e mouth of y^e river by reason of y^e Sands and Rocks is a gate to y^e River; this I ferry’d over and was an hour and halfe in y^e passage, its of great breadth and at low water is so deep and salt as y^e sea almost, tho’ it does not Cast so green a hew on y^e water as ye sea, but else the waves toss and y^e Rocks grate all round it and is as dangerous as y^e sea. Its a sort of Hoy that I ferried over and my horses—y^e boate would have held 100 people.

Leverpoole w^ch is in Lancashire is built just on the river Mersy mostly new built houses of brick and stone after the London fashion; y^e first original was a few fishermens houses and now is grown to a large fine town and but a parish and one Church, tho’ there be 24 streetes in it. There is Indeed a little Chappell and there are a great many dessenters in the town. Its a very Rich trading town, y^e houses of Brick and stone built high and Even that a streete quite through Lookes very handsome—the streetes well pitched. There are abundance of persons you see very well dress’d and of good fashion, y^e streetes are faire and Long, its London in miniature as much as ever I saw anything. There is a very pretty Exchange stands on 8 pillars besides the Corners w^ch are Each Arche pillars all of stone and its railed in, over w^ch is a very handsome town hall—over all is a tower and Cupilow thats so high that from thence one has y^e 153whole view of y^e town and the Country round—in a Clear day you may see y^e Jsle of Man w^ch also was in view from out of Wales at Harding on the high tarrass walke in my Cos’n Percivalls garden.

Thence to Prescote 7 very long miles, but pretty good way, mostly Lanes; there I passed by Nosel the Earle of Darbys house w^ch Looked very nobly w^th many towers and balls on them; it stands amongst tall trees and Lookes like a pleasant grove all about it, its an old house runs a great Compass of ground. Y^e town of Prescote stands on a high hill, a very pretty neate Market town—a Large market place and broad streetes well pitch’d.

Thence to Wiggon, 7 long miles more mostly in Lanes and some hollow wayes and some pretty deep stony way so forced us upon y^e high Causey, but some of y^e way was good w^ch I went pretty fast and yet by reason of the tediousness of y^e miles for length I was 5 hours going that 14 mile; I could have gone 30 miles about London in y^e tyme. There was pretty much woods and Lanes through which I passed, and pass’d by a mer or Lake of water; there are many of these here about, but not going through Ormskerk. I avoided going by the famous Mer Call’d Martin mer that as y^e proverb sayes has parted many a man and his mare—indeed it being neare evening and not getting a Guide I was a little afraid to go that way it being very hazardous for Strangers to passe by it. Some part of y^t mer one M^r Ffleetewood has been at y^e Expence to draine so as to be able to use the ground for tillage, having by trenches and floodgates w^th banks shutt out y^e waters y^t still kept it a marsh and moorish ground, but it was a very great Charge; however it shews by industry and some Expence, if Gentlemen would set about it, Most of y^e waste ground thats now a ffenny Moor and Mostly water might be rendered usefull and in a few yeares answere y^e first great Charge on it. Wiggons is another pretty Market town built of stone and brick: here it is that the fine Channell Coales are in perfection—burns as light as a Candle—set the Coales together w^th some fire and it shall give a snap and burn up light. Of this Coale they make 154Saltcellars, Stand-dishes and many boxes and things w^ch are sent about for Curiositys and sold in London and are often offer’d in the Exchange in Company w^th white or black marble and most people deceived by them w^ch have not been in those Countrys and know it, but such persons discover it and will Call for a Candle to trye them whether marble or Coale: its very finely pollish’d and Lookes much like jett or Ebany wood for w^ch one might Easily take it when in boxes &c &c. I bought some of them for Curiosity sake. 2 mile off Wigon towards Warrington (w^ch was some of my way back againe but for y^e Curiosity’s sake I did,) is the Burning well w^ch burns like brandy; its a little sorry hole in one of y^e grounds 100 yards from y^e Road that Comes from Warrington to Wiggon just by a hedge or banck, its full of dirt and mud almost but the water Continually bubbles up as if it were a pott boyling w^ch is the spring or severall springs in that place; Nevertheless I felt y^e water and it was a Cold Spring. Y^e man w^ch shewed it me, w^th a dish tooke out a good quantety of y^e water and threw away and then w^th a piece of Rush he lighted by a Candle y^t he brought in a lanthorne, he set y^e water in y^e well on fire and it burn’d blewish just like spirits and Continued a good while, but by reason of y^e great raines y^t ffell y^e night before y^e spring was weaker and had not thrown off the raine water, otherwise it used to flame all over y^e well a good height, now it burnt weaker; at last the wind blew out y^e mans Candle and he severall tymes lighted y^e bitt of Rush or splinter of wood by y^e flame y^t burnt in y^e well. This is a little unaccountable; I apprehend its a sort of an unctious matter in y^e Earth and soe through its veines the springs run w^ch Causes it so to burn, for I observ’d when they dug into y^e banche and opened the sort of Clay or mudd, it burnt fiercer and more from y^e well. I returned againe to Wiggon two mile and thence to Preston and passed by S^r John Bradshaws house w^ch stood on y^e declineing of a hill in y^e midst of a fine grove of trees. Severall fine walkes and Rows of trees thereabout; just in the Road on the banck where on the hedge stood was Errected a high stone pillar Carv’d and a ball on y^e top with an jnscription 155Cutt on it shewing the Cause of it, being the monument of an officer that in a fight just there, his horse takeing y^e hedge and Ditch on some distaste he tooke at y^e Gunns and smoake, flung out his sword out of y^e scabbard and flung his Master down on y^e poynt of it w^ch ran him through that he dyed and Lyes buried on y^e Spott.

Preston is reckon’d but 12 mile from Wiggon but they Exceed in Length by farre those y^t I thought long the day before from Leverpoole; its true to avoid the many Mers and marshy places it was a great Compass I tooke, and passed down and up very steep hills, and this way was good Gravell way; but passing by many very Large arches y^t were only single ones but as Large as two great gate wayes, and y^e water I went through y^t ran und^er them was so shallow notwithstanding these were Extreme high arches, I enquired the Meaneing and was inform’d that on great raines those brookes would be swelled to so great a height that unless those arches were so high, noe passing while it were so.

They are but narrow bridges for foote or horse and at such floods they are fforced in many places to boate it till they Come to those arches on the great Bridges w^ch are across their great Rivers; this happens sometymes on sudden great showers for a day or two in y^e summer, but y^e winter is often or mostly soe that there are deep waters so as not Easily Cross’d; but once in 3 or 4 years there is some of those very greate floods I mentioned before, that they are fforced to boate from bridge to bridge w^ch is little Enough then to secure them. I passed by at Least half a dozⁿ of these high single arches besides severall great stone Bridges of 4 or 6 arches which are very high also over their greatest rivers. Preston stands on a hill and is a very good market town; Satterday is their market w^ch day I was there and saw it was provided with all sorts of things—Leather, Corn Coales, butter, Cheese and fruite and garden things: there is a very spacious Market place and pretty Church and severall good houses. At y^e Entrance of y^e town was a very good house w^ch was a Lawyers all stone work 5 windows in y^e front and high built according to y^e Eastern building near London; the ascent to y^e house was 14 or 15 stone 156stepps Large and a handsome Court with open jron Pallasadoes in the gate, and on Each side, the whole breadth of y^e house, w^ch discover’d the gardens on Each side of the house, neately kept flowers and greens; there was also many steps up to y^e house from y^e Court—it was a Compleate building. There was 2 or 3 more such houses in y^e town and Indeed the Generallity of y^e buildings, Especially in 2 or 3 of y^e great streetes were very handsome, better than in most Country towns and y^e streetes spacious and well pitch’d. I was about 4 houres going this twelve mile and Could have gone 20 in the tyme in most Countrys, nay by the people of these parts this twelve is as long and as much tyme taken up in going it as to go from thence to Lancaster w^ch is 20 mile, and I Can Confirme this by my own Experience for I went to Goscoyne w^ch is 10 miles and halfe way to Lancaster in two houres, where I baited, and here it was I was first presented w^th y^e Clap bread w^ch is much talked of made all of oates. I was surpris’d when the Cloth was Laid, they brought a great Basket such as one uses to undress Children with and set it on the table full of thin waffers as big as Pancakes and drye that they Easily breake into shivers, but Coming to dinner found it to be y^e only thing I must Eate for bread. Y^e taste of oate bread is pleasant enough and where its well made is very acceptable, but for y^e most part its scarce baked and full of drye flour on y^e outside. Y^e description of how its made ought to Come in here but I Reserve it to y^e place I saw it made at the best way. As I Come to this place which was much over downs or a Race ground I Came along by some of y^e old Picts walls, y^e ruines of which here and there remaines in many parts of y^e Country. Gascoyn is a little market town—one Church in it w^ch is a mile off from y^e town, and y^e parish is 8 miles long, which discourag’d me in staying there being Satterday night and so pressed on to Lancaster.

I percieve most of y^e parishes are a great tract of Land and very Large and also beneficial, for all over Lancastershire the revenues of y^e parsonages are Considerable 2 and 300^£ 500 and 800 a piece, y^e parson at Liverpoole has 1100 a yeare, and its frequent Everywhere 3 or 400^£. Thence 157to Lancaster town 10 mile more which I Easily Reached in 2 hours and a halfe or 3 hours; I passed through abundance of villages almost at y^e End of Every mile, mostly all along Lanes being an Enclosed Country. They have one good thing in most parts of this principality, or County palatine its rather Call’d, that at all Cross wayes there are posts w^th hands pointing to each road w^th y^e names of y^e great town or market towns that it Leads to, w^ch does make up for y^e Length of y^e miles y^t strangers may not Loose their Road and have it to goe back againe. You have a great divertion on this road haveing a pleasing prospect of y^e Countrys a great distance round, and see it full of jnclosures and some woods, three miles off y^e town you see it very plaine and y^e sea, Even y^e main ocean; in one place an arm of it Comes up w^th in 2 mile of y^e town. Y^e River Liene runs by the town and so into y^e sea. Y^e situation of Lancaster town is very good, y^e Church neately built of stone, y^e Castle w^ch is just by, both on a very great ascent from y^e Rest of y^e town and so is in open view, y^e town and River Lying Round it beneath. On y^e Castle tower walking quite round by y^e battlements I saw y^e whole town and river at a view, w^ch runs almost quite round and returns againe by y^e town, and saw y^e sea beyond and y^e great high hills beyond y^t part of y^e sea, w^ch are in Wales, and also into Westmoreland to the great hills there Called ffurness ffells or hills, being a string of vast high hills together: also into Cumberland to y^e great hill Called Black Comb hill whence they digg their black Lead and no where Else; but they open y^e mine but once in Severall yeares. I also saw into Yorkshire,—there is Lead, Copper, gold and silver in some of those hills and marble and Christall also.

Lancaster town is old and much decay’d: there has been a monastery, the walls of part of it remaine and some of y^e Carv’d stones and ffigures; there is in it a good garden and a pond in it w^th a little jsland on w^ch an apple tree grows—a Jenitin; and Strawberys all round its Rootes and y^e banks of the Little jsle. There are 2 pretty wells and a vault that Leads a great way under ground up as farre as 158y^e Castle, w^ch is a good distance. In the River there are great weres or falls of water made for Salmon ffishing, where they hang their nets and Catch great quantety’s of ffish, w^ch is neare the bridge. The town seemes not to be much in trade as some others, but the great store of fish makes them Live plentifully as also the great plenty of all provisions. The streets are some of them well pitch’d and of a good size; when I came into the town the stones were so slippery Crossing some Channells that my horse was quite down on his nose, but did at length recover himself, and so I was not thrown off or jnjured w^ch I desire to bless God for, as for the many preservations I mett with. I Cannot say the town seemes a lazy town and there are trades of all sorts, there is a Large meeteing house, but their minister was but a mean preacher; there are 2 Churches in the town which are pretty near Each other.

Thence I went to Kendall in Westmoreland over steepe stony hills all like Rocks, 6 miles to one Lady Middleton, and by some Gentlemen w^ch were travelling that way that was their acquaintance, had the advantage of going through her parke, and saved the going Round a bad stony passage. It was very pleasant under the shade of the tall trees. It was an old timber house, but the family being from home we had a free passage through it on to the Road againe, much of w^ch was stony and steep—far worse than the Peake in Darbyshire. This Lady Middleton was a papist and I believe the Gentlemen y^t was travelling were too. Thence to Kendall ten mile more, most of y^e way was in Lanes when I was out of the stony hills, and then into jnclosed Lands, here in 6 miles to the town you have very Rich good Land Enclosed—Little round green hills flourishing w^th Corn and grass as green and fresh, being in the prime season in July. There is not much woods but only the hedge rows round the grounds w^ch Looks very fine. In these Northern Countyes they have only the summer Graine, as barley, oates, peas, beans, and Lentils, noe wheate or Rhye for they are so cold and Late in their yeare they Cannot venture at that sort of tillage, so have none but what they are supply’d out of other Countys 159adjacent. The Land seemes here in many places very ffertile; they have much Rhye in Lancashire Yorkshire and Stafford and Shropshire and so Herriford and Worcestershire, w^ch I found very troublesome in my journeys, for they would not own they had any such thing in their bread, but it so disagrees w^th me as allwayes to make me sick w^ch I found by its Effects whenever I met w^th any, tho’ I did not discern it by the taste; in Suffolke and Norfolke I also met w^th it, but in these parts its altogether y^e oatbread. Kendall is a town built all of stone, one very broad streete in which is the Market Crosse; its a goode tradeing town mostly famed for the Cottons: Kendall Cotton is used for blanckets and the Scotts use them for their Plodds and there is much made here and also Linsi-woolseys, and a great deale of Leather tann’d here, and all sorts of Commodityes—twice a weeke is y^e market ffurnished w^th all sorts of things.

The River Can w^ch gives name to the town is pretty Large but full of Rocks and stones that makes shelves and falls in the water, its stor’d w^th plenty of good ffish and there are great ffalls of water partly naturall and added to by putting more stones in manner of Wyers, at w^ch they Catch Salmon when they Leape with speares. The Roaring of y^e water at these places sometymes does foretell wet weather; they do observe when the water roares most in the fall on the Northside it will be ffaire, if on the Southside of the town it will be wet. Some of them are falls as high as a house. The same observation is at Lancaster at the Wires where they Catch Salmon; against Stormes or raines it will be turbulent and Rore as may be heard into the town. There are 3 or 4 good houses in the town, y^e rest are like good traders houses very neate and tight. The streetes are all pitch’d w^ch is Extreame Easy to be repair’d, for the whole Country is like one Entire Rock or pitching almost all y^e Roads. At the Kings arms, one M^rs Rowlandson, she does pott up the Charr ffish the best of any in the Country: I was Curious to have some and so bespoke some of her, and also was as Curious to see the great water w^ch is the only place that ffish is to be found 160in, and so went from Kendall to Bondor 6 miles thro’ narrow Lanes, but the Lands in y^e jnclosures are Rich. But here Can be noe Carriages, but very narrow ones like Little wheele-barrows that with a horse they Convey their fewell and all things Else. They also use horses on which they have a sort of Pannyers some Close, some open, that they strew full of hay turff and Lime and Dung and Every thing they would use, and the reason is plaine, from the narrowness of the Lanes where is good Lands they will Loose as Little as they Can, and where its hilly and stoney no other Carriages Can pass, so they use these horse Carriages, and abundance of horses I see all about Kendall streetes with their Burdens. This Kendall is the biggest town and much in y^e heart of Westmoreland, but Appleby 10 mile off is the shire town where the session and assizes are held and is 7 miles to this great Lake Wiandermer or great standing water w^ch is 10 mile long and near halfe a mile over in some places. It has many Little hills or jsles in it, one of a great bigness of 30 acres of ground on which is a house, y^e Gentleman that is Lord of y^e Manour Lives in it—S^r Christopher Phillips; he has a great Command of y^e water and of y^e villages thereabout and many Priviledges, he makes a Major or Bailiff of y^e place during life; its but a small mean place, M^r Majors was the best Entertaining house where I was. Y^e Isle did not Looke to be so bigg at y^e shore, but takeing boate I went on it and found it as large and very good Barley and oates and grass. The water is very Cleer and full of good ffish, but y^e Charr ffish being out of season Could not Easily be taken, so I saw none alive but of other ffish I had a very good supper. The season of the Charr ffish is between Michaelmas and Christmas; at that tyme I have had of them, w^ch they pott with sweete spices. They are as big as a small trout, Rather slenderer and y^e skinn full of spotts, some Red Like the finns of a Perch and the jnside flesh Looks as Red as any salmon if they are in season; their taste is very Rich and fatt tho’ not so strong or Clogging as the Lamprys are, but its as fatt and Rich a food. This great water seemes to flow and wane about with y^e wind but it 161does not Ebb and flow Like the sea with the tyde, neither does it run so as to be perceivable, tho’ at y^e End of it a Little Rivulet trills from it into the Sea, but it seemes to be a standing Lake Encompass’d with vast high hills, y^t are perfect Rocks and barren ground of a vast height, from which many Little Springs out of y^e Rock does bubble up and descend down and fall into this water. Notwithstanding great raines y^e water does not seem much Encreas’d tho’ it must be so, then it does draine off more at the End of the Lake. These hills w^ch they Call Ffurness Ffells a long Row Continued some miles, and some of them are Call’d Donum ffells and soe from the places they adjoyne to are named, but they hold the whole length of the water w^ch is 10 mile; they have fome parts of them that has wayes that they Can by degrees in a Compass ascend them and so they go onward. In the Countrys, they are fferried over the Lake when they go to market. On y^e other side over those ffells there is a sort of Stones Like Rubbish or Broken pieces of stones, w^ch Lies about a quarry, that Lies all in the bottom of y^e water; where its so shallow as at the shores it is and very Cleer you see the bottom; between these stones are weeds w^ch grows up, that I had some taken up just Like samfyer and I have a fancy its a sort of sampire that Indeed is gather’d in y^e Rocks by the sea and water, and this grows in the water but it resembles it in Coullour, ffigure and the taste not much unlike—it was somewhat waterish. There was also fine moss growing in the bottom of y^e water. Here it was I saw y^e oat Clap bread made. They mix their flour with water, so soft as to rowle it in their hands into a ball, and then they have a board made round and something hollow in the middle riseing by degrees all round to the Edge a little higher, but so little as one would take it to be only a board warp’d, this is to Cast out the Cake thinn and so they Clap it round and drive it to y^e Edge in a Due proportion till drove as thinn as a paper and still they Clap it and drive it round, and then they have a plaite of jron same size w^th their Clap board, and so shove off the Cake on it and so set it on Coales and bake it; when Enough 162on one side they slide it off and put the other side; if their jron plaite is smooth and they take Care their Coales or Embers are not too hot but just to make it Looke yellow, it will bake and be as Crisp and pleasant to Eate as any thing you Can jmagine, but as we say of all sorts of bread there is a vast deal of difference in what is housewifely made and what is ill made, so this if its well mixed and Rowled up and but a little flour on the outside which will drye on and make it mealy is a very good sort of food. This is the sort of bread they use in all these Countrys, and in Scotland they breake into their milk or broth or Else sup that up and bite off their bread between while they spread butter on it and Eate it with their meate. They have no other Sort of bread unless at market towns and that is scarce to be had unless the market dayes, soe they make their Cake and Eate it presently, for its not so good if 2 or 3 dayes old. It made me reflect on the description made in Scripture of this Kneeding Cakes and bakeing them on the hearth whenever they had Company Come to their houses, and I Cannot but thinke it was after this manner they made their bread in y^e old tymes Especially those Eastern Countryes where their bread might be soone dry’d and spoil’d. Their little Carts I was speakeing of they use hereabout, the wheeles are fastned to the axletree and so turn altogether, they hold not above what 5 wheelbarrows would Carry at three or four tymes, which the Girles and Boys and women does go about with drawn by one horse to Carry any thing they want. Here is a great deal of good grass and Summer Corn and pastures, its Rich Land in the bottoms as one may Call them Considering the vast hills above them on all sides, yet they Contain a number of Lesser hills one below another, so that tho’ at one Looke you think it but a little Land Every body has; Yet it being so full of hills its many acres w^ch if at Length in a plain would Extend a vast way. I was about a quarter of an hour in the boate before I reach’d y^e island w^ch is in the midst of the water so by that you may guesse at the breadth of the water in the whole, they fferry man and horse over it; its sometymes 163perfectly Calme. Thence I Rode almost all the waye in sight of this great water, some tymes I lost it by reason of y^e great hills interposeing and so a Continu’d up hill and down hill and that pretty steep, even when I was in that they Called bottoms w^ch are very rich good grounds, and so I gained by degrees from Lower to higher hills w^ch I allwayes went up and down before I Came to another hill. At last I attained to the side of one of these hills or ffells of Rocks, w^ch I passed on the side much about the Middle, for Looking down to the bottom it was at Least a Mile all full of those Lesser hills and jnclosures, so Looking upward I was as farre from the top which was all Rocks, and something more barren tho’ there was some trees and woods growing in y^e Rocks and hanging over all down y^e Brow of some of the hills. From these great ffells there are severall springs out of y^e Rock that trickle down their sides, and as they meete with stones and Rocks in the way, when something obstructs their passage and so they Come with more violence, that gives a pleaseing sound and murmuring noise. These descend by degrees at last fall into the Low grounds and fructifye it w^ch makes y^e Land soe ffruit full in the valleys, and upon those very high ffells or Rocky hills its (tho’) soe high yet a moorish sort of ground whence they digg abundance of Peat w^ch they use for their fewell, being in many places a barren ground yeilding noe wood &c. I rode in sight of this Winander water as I was ascending another of those barren ffells w^ch tho’ I at last was not halfe way up, yet was an hour going it up and down on the other side, going only on the side of it about y^e middle of it, but it was of such a height as to shew one a great deale of y^e Country when it happens to be between those hills, Else those interposeing hinders any sight but of y^e Clouds. I see a good way behind me another of those waters or mers but not very bigge. These great hills are so full of Loose stones and shelves of Rocks y^t its very unsafe to Ride them down.