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Through England on a side saddle in the time of William and Mary

HERE BEGINS MY NORTHERN JOURNEY IN MAY 1697 (continued 2)

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The fifth wonder is Mamtour wch is a high hill that Looks Exactly round, but on the side next Castleton wch is a Little town in the High Peake on that side its all broken that it Looks just in resemblance as a great Hay-Ricke yts Cut down one halfe on one side—that describes it most naturall. This is all sand, and on that broken side the sand keeps trickling down allwayes Especially when there is the 87Least wind of wch I believe this Country scarce Ever is wthout; many places of the hill Looks hollow and Loose wch makes it very dangerous to ascend and none does attempt it, ye sand being Loose slips ye foote back againe.

The 6th wonder is at Casleton 4 mile from Elderhole; its a town Lyes at ye foote of an Exceeding steep hill wch Could not be descended by foote or horse, but in a Compass and yt by ye Roads returning to and agen on ye side of ye hill at Least 4 tymes before we Could gaine ye bottom or top of sd Hill. This is wch they Call the Devills Arse a peake, the hill on one End jutting out in two parts and joyns in one at ye top, this part or Cleft between you Enter a great Cave wch is very Large, and severall poor Little houses in it built of Stone and thatch’d Like Little Styes, one seemed a Little bigger in which a Gentleman Liv’d and his wife yt was worth above 100£ a year wch he left to his brother, Chooseing rather Like a hermite to Live in this sorry Cell. One Mr Midleton who was wth us sd he had dined wth them there on Carrots and Herbs, and yt he was dead and his wife a year or two since. Now none but very poor people Live there wch makes some small advantage by begging and by Lighting the strangers into the Cave wch beyond this you Enter so straight a passage. At the mouth you stoop very Low Even upon yr Breast and Creep in, when you are about a yard or two’s Length you stand upright, it being Lofty in manner of Poole’s Hole only the Rock hangs down in so many places that there is often Cause of Stooping very Low to pass by ym, and here ye ground you tread on is all sand and firme, only ye Rocks do drip water in many places wch makes it damp and strikes Cold to you, but Excepting the pillars of Rock in some places that hang down ye most of it is very Lofty and a great Ecchoe like a Church. You pass a good way by ye Light of many Candles haveing Lost ye sight of day from ye first stooping Entrance. At Last you Come to a river they Call it, a great water it is and very deep, they say its about 12 yards over and some do go on it wth a Little boate to ye other side but I would not venture. There was one Gentlewoman in our Company sd she had once been Carry’d 88over on 2 mens shoulders, but they waded above their waste in water, so I would not be for so dangerous I was sure it was a difficult Enterprise, and when you are over yt side they go over but such places as was pass’d before wch Leads to another such a water wch some men have pass’d over and so have gone on to a third water, but there ye Rocks hung so Low as almost to touch ye water wch hindred their proceeding. That water I saw was strange, so deep and large and look’d like a standing water but whether it were or not Could not tell, no Doubt but it has a passage thro’ the veines of ye Earth or Else would swell so as to Cause a bursting out of ye Earth—it seemed to have a motion wth it, All these things shewes the great wisdom and power of our blessed Creator to make and maintaine all things within its own Bounds and Limits wch have a tendency to worke out ruine to ye whole frame of ye world if not bridled by Gods Command.

The seventh wonder is a flowing and Ebbing Well between this town and Buxton wch Ceases its miraculous motion but on Great raines which Raises the springs, and then, the man wch was wth us told me he had seen it severall tymes in ye winter when ye springs were high to Ebb and flow severall tymes in a hour, wch appear’d by ye Rise and fall of ye water from ye Edge of ye well, and the man seem’d to be a good sober man, Mr Middleton it was, so that its Likely when the springs are high the water from the sea may have a quicker flux and Reflux thro’ the Channells of ye Earth, but this is a good distance from ye sea or Ebbing and flowing Rivers.

From Castleton to Buxton is 6 mile, but they are very long. You might go 10 of miles near London as soon as you are going halfe so many here.

Thence we went to Ashburn 16 miles where I saw some of their Copper mines where they dig them like a well, but secure ye side wth wood and turffe bound wth ye wood like Laths or frames aCross and long wayes to secure it. This is a pretty neate market town; thence to Uxeter 8 mile, and we Cross a River on a long Bridge and so we enter Staffordshire wch has quite a different soyle, sand and 89gravell and some Clay, and very pretty sort of pebbles in the ground—some of a bright green like an Emerald, others vein’d, some Clear like Christall. This Country is well wooded and full of Enclosures, good Rich Ground, is Extreamely differing from Darbyshire. Just before we Came to Uxeter we pass by a very Exact house and Gardens of one Mr Cotten a justice of peace, its Brick and Coyn’d wth stone, the Gardens or Courts very Compleate, but it stands in a Low moorish ground to show this worlds good is not perfect but has its foule as well as faire Side and with all its Conveniency’s Must Labour under some difficultyes. We pass thro’ a deep and Long water just by, but ye bottom was hard gravell, this supply’s severall mills wch are used for their prepareing ye metal they take out of ye mines. I had a piece of Copper given me by One of ye managers of ym.

Thence we Came to Woolsley 7 mile, to a Relations house Sr Charles Woolsley whose Lady was my Aunt, where we dined. Ye house stands in a fine parke; ye house is an old building and but Low, its built round a Court: there is a Large Lofty hall in ye Old fashion, a dineing and drawing roome on ye one hand, and a little parlour on the other, the best roomes were newer built wth Chambers over them, and a very good staircase well wanscoated and Carv’d wth good pictures. Ye Rest of the house is all old and Low and must be new built. Ye Gardens are good, both gravell and Green walks; there is a good River runns by it wch has dwarfe trees and honysuckles and binds on the Bancks, there is a great deale of good fruite and there are severall walks, one shady wth high trees wch my Aunt told me my mother liked to walke in and so was Call’d her walke. I eate a sort of flatt strawbery like a button, wch grew in a second Crop from ye same strawberys Roote wch produces its first Crop a sort of Large garden Strawberries and this sort afterwards. In this Country they burn all this tyme of ye year July, their ffern and make ye ashes up in balls and so keep to make Lye for driveing their Ruck of Cloth’s wch whitens them much. Not farre from hence they have ye mines of the fine sort of Coale that is hard and 90will be pollished like black marble, for salts or boxes or such Like, ye only difference it will not bear ye fire as marble does, Else it resembles it very much; there were of these mines just by but now they have Come to ye End of this veine and so there is none within 6 or 7 mile.

This is ye pitt Coale, yts Cloven and burns Like a Candle, and makes white ashes Like ye Scotch-Coale. Ye same sort is in Nottinghamshire. From hence we went to Litchfield 7 mile, a sandy Road full of fine pebbles; Litchfield stands Low, there is a greate standing water as I have seen just by ye town, wch does often flow ye grounds after Raines, so the Road is secured wth a banck and a breast wall of a good Length into ye town—as a Long Causy or bridge ye Road is, and there are some few Arches here and there to Carry off ye water. Ye water has very good ffish in it but it must be muddy; its the privilege of ye Magistrates only to have fishing or to go about it wth a little boate. The town has good houses, ye Close has ye Bishops and Deanes and prebends houses wch are good; the streetes are very neate and handsome, ye Breadth and length very well and the building handsome. The minster is a stately structure but old, ye outside has been finely Carv’d and full of Images as appears by the nitches and pedistalls wch remaine very Close all over the walls, and still just at ye front remaines some Statues of ye Kings of Jerusalem and some angels and Cherubims. At ye door is a Large statue of King Charles ye Second, and all about ye door is fine Carving of flowers Leaves, birds and beasts and some saints and apostles statues. The Inside of ye Church is very neate being new but there is but Little painting; there are two Quires, one old one wth organs and seates, ye other new wch is very Large wth Organs and fine Carving in ye wood; here are 2 organs. There is a painting over the Communion table of peach Collour satten Like a Cannopy wth gold fringe, and its drawn so well that it lookes like a Reall Cannopy. There is some remaines of a Castle, ye walls and some of the towers remaine. The wall that Encompasses ye town is what Encompasses the Church and goes from thence.

We went thence to Colehill 12 mile, and pass’d by 91severall good houses. Here I saw ye way of makeing Runnet as they do in Cheshire—they take ye Reed bag and Curd and haveing washed it Clean, salt it and breake ye Curd small about ye bag, so drye them, being stretch’d out with sticks like a glove, and so hang them in a Chimney till you need it, then Cut a piece off this as big as halfe a Crown and boyle it in a little water wch water will turn ye milke better than any made runnet and its freshe. This is a pretty little market town and stands on a hill.

Thence to Coventry all on a Levell 8 mile. I Came by severall pretty seates, one on the Left hand of Sr Andrew Hacket stands in a parke and good gardens walled in, and on the Right hand we Came Close to a very pretty new built house wth severall Rows of firrs, the outward Court Came in a Compass wth open Barrgates just to the Road, and a brick bridge from the Court at one side quite Cross ye highway: we drove under it wch Leads to a parke that runs along on the other hand. The house was brick and Coyn’d with stone and the windows the same, 8 windows in the front and ye Lawrells and greens look’d very pretty. Coventry stands on the side of a pretty high hill and as you approach it from the adjacent hill you have the full prospect. The spire and steeple of one of the Churches is very high and is thought the third highest in England. In the same Church yard stands another large Church wch is something unusuall two such great Churches together; their towers and the Rest of ye Churches and high buildings make the town appear very fine, the streetes are broad and very well pitch’d wth small stone. The Cross is noted and ye finest building in England for such a thing, and in my phancy it very much resembles ye picture of ye tower of Babel, its all stone Carv’d very Curiously, and there are 4 divisions Each being less than another to ye top, and so its Piramidy forme. In Each partition is severall nitches for statues quite round it where are kings and queens, and just on Each side before Each statute is their arms and ye arms of England and the arms of ye town, and so its adorn’d wth Coullours and gilding in their proper places as in the garments and Crowns or Coronets, and finely Carv’d 92wth angels and Cherubims and all sorts of beasts, Birds, flowers in garlands, and Leaves—this in Every division; there is variety quite up to the top wch is finely Carv’d and Gilt. This is ye biggest place in ye town, and ye streete very broad and runs off a great length, and most of ye streetes are very good. Ye buildings are mostly of timber work and old. There is a water house at the End of ye town wch from springs does supply by pipes ye whole town wth water in ye manner that London is. There is also a water wch serves severall mills yt belong to the town; it seems to be a thriveing good trading town and is very Rich. They have a great publick stock belonging to ye Corporation above 3 thousand pound a year for publick schooles, Charity and ye maintenance of their severall publick Expences, of their Magistrates and Companyes, the majority of the heads are now in ye sober men, so its Esteem’d a ffanatick town, and there is Indeed the largest Chapple and ye greatest number of people I have ever seen of ye Presbiterian way. There is another meeteing place in ye town of ye Independants wch is nott so bigg, but tho’ they may differ in some small things, in ye maine they agree and seeme to Love one another wch was no small sattisfaction to me, Charity and Love to ye brethren being ye Characteristicall marke of Christs true Disciples.

Coventry has one thing remains Remarkable not to be omitted, the statue of a man Looking out of a window wth his Eyes out, and is a monument as history tells us of some priviledges obtein’d by a Lady wife, to the nobleman who was lord of ye town, and she was to purchase them by passing on horse back through ye town naked wch he thought she would not do, but out of zeale to relieve ye town from some hard bondage she did, and Commanded all windows and doores to be shutt and none to appear in the streete on pain of death wch was obey’d by all; but one man would open a window and Looke out and for his impudence had this judgment on him to be struck blind; this statute is his resemblance and one day in a year they Remember ye good Lady by some rejoyceing. There are severall good walks about ye town, and a large parke above 93ye town wch most people walk in: thence we went to Warwick. Coventry is joyn’d to Litchfield under one Bishop and yt wch I wonder at that the Bishop and most of ye dignatorys and abundance of Gentry Rather Chooses to Live at and near all about Litchfield tho’ it stands so low and waterish, than at Coventry wch is a pleasanter scituation and better buildings. There is Sr Tho: Nortons house at ye end of ye town and a large parke. From Coventry to Warwick going about to see an acquaintance of our Company we made it 10 mile, and went in sight of ye Lord Liegh on ye Left hand, wch Lay all along by ye River Aven; it stands Low very well wooded.

We ascended a very steep hill to take a view of ye Country and so Could see Coventry, and were just by Hillingworth Castle on ye Right hand—much of ye Ruines of ye walls remaine still—and so Enter Warwickshire. The town of Warwick by means of a sad fire about 4 or 5 years since yt Laid ye greatest part in ashes, its most now new built, wch is wth brick and Coyn’d wth stone and ye windows ye same. There still remaines some few houses of ye old town wch are all built of stone. Ye streetes are very handsome and ye buildings Regular and fine, not very Lofty being Limited by act of partliamt to such a pitch and size to build ye town. Ye ruines of ye Church still remaines, ye repairing of which is ye next worke design’d; Ye Chancell stands still in wch was all the fine monuments yt were preserv’d from the fire; there is one monument of ye great Earle of Leisters and his Ladyes in stone Curiously wrought, wth their Garments, and painted and Gilded. There is another in marble of ye Earle of Warwick, ye statue Cut very finely, ye face hands and forme very Lively, and under his head is a Role of Straw matting as you would suppose being Exceeding naturall Cut in Stone. In ye middle stands ye monument of ye Earle yt was regent in Ffrance and dyed there and was brought and buried here, his statue at Length in armour, but ye Lines of his face and hands wth ye veines and sinews were so finely Cast and ye very aire of his Countenance much to ye Life or Like a Liveing man all Cast brass and Burnish’d very delicately yt 94it Looks like Gold, all his armour very Exact and his arms are Cut finely at his head, and supporters at his feete, wth ffigures and Images to adorne it; round the tombstone on ye one side and Each End is 4 : and 2 y—at the End statues of ye great men yt were of his family, sons and Grand-Children, and on the other side are 4 Ladies of the family all Cast in the same Burnish’d Brass; they are in little and all in Religious habits wch formerly in ye tymes of popery and superstition most persons Coveted to dye in; their garments are folded in differing shapes and wth many wrinklings and gathers wch is very exact and ye more to be noted being all in such a stiff mettle as Brass and yet it Lookes Easye and natural. On ye other side ye Church in a little Chapple is a Large monument of Black and White Marble in manner of a bed wth pillars, and its grated round—the pillars black marble—of some Nobleman wth a Large Inscription round it, and one thing is noted of him there that he thought it his greatest Character to be Esteem’d a great ffriend and Companion of Sr Philip Sidney’s wch is but of poor availe to him now dead if he was not ye friend of ye great Jehovah—but such is ye folly and vanity of ye most of ye world to be in Esteeme wth ye wise and great men of this world. There is delicate Carving about ye walls and round ye windows in stone all manner of Birds beasts, Laurells flowers &c &c, and Cherubims, and Gilded and painted in severall parts. Warwick Castle is a stately building, its now the Lord Brooke’s house. You Enter thro’ two Large Courts into a noble Hall wanscoated, wth in it is a Large parlour all wanscoated wth Cedar, wch is full of fine pictures of the family and beyond that is a drawing roome and bed Chamber wth good tapistry hangings; they are old but so good worke and so beautifull the Coullours still, you would admire it, and the worke so Curious all of silk that ye very postures and faces Look Extreame lively and naturall, and the groves streames and Rivers Look’s very well on it. There was good velvet Chaires in ye roomes and good Pictures. Within ye bed Chamber is Closets, out of one you Looke to ye river even at ye End window, there is so greate a Levell you may see near 20 mile. Stowe in ye Old you 95see wch is as farre, its all full of Enclosures and woods most of the Country. All these roomes are very Lofty and large and larger than most houses I have seen, the Gardens fine and many without Each other, wth good gravell and grass walks, squares of dwarfe trees of all sorts and steps to descend from one walke to another, ye whole of wch I saw at one view on ye top of ye mount, together with ye whole town and a vast prospect all about, ye mount being very high and ye ascent is round to an agen securred by Cut hedges on ye side ye path. At ye Entrance of ye first Court ye porter diverts you wth a history of Guy Earle of Warwick, there is his walking staff 9 foote long and ye staff of a Gyant wch he kill’d thats 12 ffoote long; his sword, Helmet and shield and breast and back all of a prodigious size, as is his wives jron slippers and also his horses armour and the pottage-pott for his supper—it was a yard over the top; there is also the bones of severall Beasts he kill’d, the Rib of ye Dun-Cow as bigg as halfe a great Cart Wheele: 2 miles from the town is his Cave dugg out by his own hands just ye dimention of his body as the Common people say, there is also his will Cut out on stone, but ye letters are much defaced; these are the storyes and meer ffiction, for the true history of Guy was that he was but a Little man in stature tho’ great in mind and valour, which tradition describes to posterity by being a Gyant. Such will the account be of our Hero King William the third tho’ Little in stature yet Great in atchievements and valour. Ffrom Warwick we went towards Daventry all along part of the vale of ye Red horse wch was very heavy way, and Could not reach thither being 14 mile. About 11 mile we Came to a place Called Nether Sugar—a sad village, we Could have no Entertainment. Just by it on the top of a steep hill is Shuggbery Hall a seate of Sr Charles Shuggberys who seeing our distress being just night and ye horses weary wth ye heavy way he very Curteously tooke Compassion on us and treated us very handsomely that night, a good supper serv’d in plaite and very good wine and good beds. My Lady Shuggbery was the lord Leigh’s Daughter and that day dineing there her Coach drove by us when in distress Enquireing 96for Lodging wch Caused Sr Charles to Come out to meete us, shewed a generous hospitable spirit to strangers, and with a great deale of good humour My Lady Entertained us. The house stands within a good parke, the deer so tame as to Come up near ye gate wch ascends steps to a Court of Broad stone. The house looks very handsome built of Brick and Stone, good hall and large parlour and drawing roome well wanscoated, neately ffurnish’d and a little parlour on the other side with good pictures; the Butlery Kitchen and offices very Convenient, two good staircases and 3 or 4 good Chambers very well ffurnish’d tho’ not very Rich; but in the Generall all things were very well as any private Gentleman has whatever. he has severall good houses. He ordered one of his Daughters to get me a Curiosity they dig up in most part of the hill there about, they Call them Arms, its just Like Mullets that they have in an Eschuteon to difference the third son from the first and second in a family. Thence we went to Daventry 3 miles, a pretty large Market town and good houses all of stone and so we Enter into Northamptonshire. To Northampton town is 8 mile wch opens a noble prospect to ye sight a mile distant, a large town well built, ye streetes as large as most in London Except Holborn and the Strand, the houses well built of brick and stone, some all stone, very regular buildings.

The town hall is new built all stone and resembles Guildhall in Little tho’ it is a good Lofty spacious place. There is two Barrs in it wth ye benches and seat distinct, over one of the Barrs is King William and Queen Mary’s pictures at Length. The Church is new built, its very neate, there is two Rows of stone pillars at the Entrance of the Church on ye outside, and it is to be paved wth broad stone but yt was not quite ffinished, they were at worke on some adornments at the ffront. There is abundance of new buildings which adds to the beauty of ye town. We enter the town from Daventry over a large Bridge, and the water runs twineing about ye grounds wth rows of Willows on Each side of it wch looks very pretty.

Ye way out of town towards London you go by a Cross a mile off the town Call’d High-Cross, it stands just in the 97middle of England, its all stone 12 stepps wch runs round it, above that is the stone Carv’d ffinely and there are 4 Large Nitches about ye Middle, in Each is the statue of some queen at Length which Encompasses it wth other Carvings as garnish, and so it rises less and less to ye top like a tower or Piramidy. Thence to Stony Stratford, so Cross ye river Aven again 12 mile, and Enter Buckinghamshire. At Stony Stratford wch is a little place built of stone they make a great deale of bonelace and so they do all here about, its the manuffactory of this part of ye Country, they sit and worke all along ye streete as thick as Can be.

Thence to great Horwood: this Country is fruitfull, full of woods, Enclosures and rich Ground. Ye Little towns stand pretty thicke. You have many in view as you pass ye Road. 6 mile to Horwood, thence we pass by a lofty pile of Building Called Salden, a gentlemans house, and by the Rich Mrs Bennets House, Remarkable for Coveteousness wch was ye Cause of her death—her treasures tempted a Butcher to Cut her throate who hangs in Chains just against her house. She had 3 daughters, the two youngest are Living one married to a Benet, ye other ye Earle of Salisbury and are great fortunes by their mothers penuriousness. Thence to Oxborn and Enter Bedfordshire 13 mile. The duke of Bedfords house we saw wch stands in a fine parke full of deer and wood, and some off the trees are kept Cut in works and ye shape of severall beasts. The house is an old Building, Low, there are very good stables and out offices, Landry yard &c. The gardens are fine, there is a Large bowling-green with 8 arbours kept Cut neately and seates in Each, there is a Seate up in a high tree that ascends from ye green 50 steps that Commands the whole parke round to see the Deer hunted, as also a Large prospect of the Country. There are 3 Large Gardens, fine Gravell walks and full of fruite. I Eate a great quantety of ye Red Coralina goosbery wch is a large thin skin’d sweete Goosebery. Ye walks are one above another wth stone steps. In the square, just by the dineing roome window is all sorts of pots of flowers and Curious greens, fine orange, Cittron and Lemon trees and mirtles, striped ffilleroy and 98ye fine aloes plant. On the side of this you pass under an arch into a Cherry garden in the midst of wch stands a figure of stone resembling an old weeder woman used in the garden, and my Lord would have her Effigie wch is done so like and her Clothes so well that at first I tooke it to be a Real Living body. On ye other side of ye house is another Large garden, severall gravell walks one above another, and on the flatts are fish ponds the whole length of the Walke; above yt in the next flat is 2 fish ponds, here are dwarfe trees spread of a great bigness. Ffrom thence we Came to Dunstable 7 mile over a sad road Called Hockley in ye Hole, as full of deep slows in ye winter it must be Empasable. There is a very good pitch’d Causey for foote people and horse, that is raised up high from the Road, and a very steepe Chaulky hill, from whence it has its name—the Chalk hill just as you Enter Dunstable. Its a good town as you shall meete with on the Road, its full of Inns, there is a long Large streete with a great water in the streete—it Looks like a Large pond. Here I went to see two of my Relations Daughters to Sr Charles Woolsley, one marry’d there to a Doctor of physick Dr Marsh, wth whome was a maiden sister my Cos’n Bridget Woolsley. Thence to St Albans and so we Enter Hartfordshire 12 mile. There is a very large streete to the Market place, its a pretty Large town takeing all the St Juliers and yt at one End, and ye other End is St Nicholas where is a handsome Church. The great Church wch is dedicated to St Albans is much out of repaire, I see the places in the pavement that was worn like holes for kneeling by the devotes of ye Religion and his votery’s as they tell you, but the whole Church is so worn away that it mourns for some Charitable person to help repaire it. There are severall good houses about ye town, one of ye Earle off Maulberough (now Duke of Marlborough) and one of Mrs Gennings ye Countess Mother.

Thence we Came to Barnet 8 mile, wch is in Middlesex and seemes to be a very sharpe aire; its a Large place and ye houses are made Commodious to Entertain the Company yt Comes to drink the water, wch Certainly if they be at the paines to go once and see would have but Little stomach to 99drink them. The well is a Large place walled in 8 square, its at Least two yards over and built 2 or 3 yards up from the water and over it is Lattices of wood round to Looke down into it and so Covered like a house above; below are staires down to a doore to go in to dip the water there. I stood at the Lowest step above the water to Look into it, its full of Leaves and Dirt and Every tyme they dip it troubles ye water, not but what they take up and let stand—Looks Clear but I Could not taste it. Its very deep and not done at the bottom wth a bason as Tunbridg, neither Can you see the bottom, so that it appears not to be a quick spring as Tunbridg or ye Spaw or Hamstead waters wch have all fine stone basons in wch you see the springs bubble up as fast and by a pipe runs off as Clear and fast; it more resembles Epsom for wch reason I dislike that. Thence to Highgate 6 miles, thence to London 4 miles where I returned and all our Company Blessed be God very well wth out any disaster or trouble in 7 weeks tyme about 635 miles that we went together.

My Journey to Canterberry and Dover in Kent the same year from Amwell in Hartfordshire. I went to Royston 1 mile, and Epin in Essex 9 mile, thence to Drumford through Lanes and much wood—that part of Essex is full of woods; yt was 10 mile. Thence to Abnife 14 mile, thence to Tilbery 3 mile wch is a ffine ffort, a great flatt to ye Land, full of Watry ditches and may be flooded all over. Here was the fight by ye parliament in 1640. There are Severall Buildings by themselves of a Triangular form of Brickwork in wch ye powder and amunition is kept. Here is a ferry over to Gravesend where we enter Kent, wch Lyes just over against it a little snugg town under a hill, the houses little and thick together fitt only for seamen and soldiers yt are Employ’d in the water or the ffort. I saw severall Colliers pass by Laden towards London.

The Thames here is very Rough and Deep so as we fferry over in a boate like a Hoy. Thence I went to Rochester 7 mile most in lanes; we Enter the town over the Medway wch is the finest River I ever saw, it runs thence to the sea and meetes ye Thames at ye Boy in Nore and so they fall 100into ye sea together, but it Ebbs and flows up a great way above Rochester and is very salt. The Bridg at Rochester is the finest in England—nay its said to Equal any in the world—it is not built upon wth houses as London Bridge but its very Long and fine, Iron spikes Like a grate is on the top of the wall wch is breast high, and these jrons on the top wch are above a yard more. Its jndented at Each arch as all bridges are, there are 9 large Arches wth ye middle one wch is to be opened by drawing up to give passage to Barges and little vessells. When ye tyde was out I saw the worke of the arches is wth wood Cutt hollow, and stands a good distance into the water to keep the water from bearing too hard against the Bridge.

The town is large jncludeing the suburbs and all, for there is a large place before you pass the river wch washes quite round yt side of ye town to ye Dockyards, thats a mile from it where are two large yards for building shipps.

I saw severall Large shipps building, others refitting. There was in one place a sort of arches like a bridge of Brickwork, they told me ye use of it was to let in ye water there, and so they put their masts in to season, besides this dock, here are severall streetes of houses on this hill wch is pretty high and is just against Rochester, and on ye hill you have ye best prospect of the town and see ye severall good Churches in it, and the Castle wch is a pretty Little thing just by ye Medway wch runs along by it, and so at foote of this hill is a Round and so onward to sea. There were severall shipps at anchor along ye River. All behind the town is another hill wch is covered wth fine woods yt Looks very fine; thence to Sittingburn 11 mile all in sight of ye Lovely Medway. This is a very good town for ye Road and travellers as you shall meete wth. The Church is all built wth flints headed so Curiously that it Lookes like glass and shines with ye suns Reflexion.

Thence to Canterbery 16 mile, we pass by great Hop yards on both sides of the Road, and this year was great quantetyes of that fruite here in Kent. We pass by Ffeversham just at ye towns End wch is 9 mile from Canterbury, its a very large town and good buildings of Bricke. 101Canterbery opens to view 6 miles distant by ye advantage of a high hill we pass over to it—its a noble Citty—ye gates are high tho’ but narrow, the streetes are most of them Large and long, and ye buildings handsome, very neate but not very Lofty, most are of Brickwork, its a flourishing town, good tradeing in ye weaving of silks. I saw 20 Loomes in one house wth severall fine flower’d silks, very good ones, and its a very Ingenious art to fix the warps and Chaine in their Loomes to Cast their work into such ffigures and flowers. There stands a boy by Every Loome and pulls up and down threads wch are fastened to the weaving, and so pulls the Chaine to the Exact form for ye shuttle to work through.

There are also paper mills wch dispatches paper at a quick rate, they were then makeing brown paper wn I saw it. The mill is set agoing by ye water and at ye same tyme it pounded the raggs to morter for ye paper, and it beate out meale and Hemp and ground bread altogether—that is at ye same tyme. When ye substance for ye paper is pounded Enough, they take it in a great tub and so with a frame just of ye size of ye sheetes of paper made all of small wire just as I have seen fine Screens to Screen Corne in, only this is much Closer wrought, and they Clap a frame of wood round ye Edge and so dip it into ye tub and what is too thinn runs through; then they turn this frame down on a piece of Coarse woollen just of ye size of ye paper and so give a Knock to it and it falls off; on wch they Clap another such a piece of woollen Cloth wch is ready to Lay ye next frame of paper, and so till they have made a large heape wch they by a board on the bottom move to a press, and so Lay a board on ye top and so Let down a great screw and weight on it, wch they force together into such a narrow Compass as they know so many sheets of paper will be reduced, and this presses out all ye thinner part and Leaves the paper so firme as it may be taken up sheete by sheete and Laid together to be thoroughly dryed by the wind. They told me white paper was made in the same manner only they must take white woollen to put between. There is a great number of French people in this town wch are 102Employ’d in the weaving and silk winding, I meete them Every night going home in great Companyes, but then some of them were Employ’d in the Hopping, it being the season for pulling them. Here is a spring in the town that is dranke by many persons as Tunbridge and approv’d by them, but others find it an ill water, one Gentleman in ye same house I was in Complained of a numbness in his Limbs after drinking it sometyme, wch is quite Contrary to Tunbridge waters whose property is to relieve Lost Limbs yt are benumbed, and it Comeing from steele should have yt Effect it raising the blood and gives it a new Circulation. The taste of the spring in this town seems to be from a mixt soyle and bears a Likeness to ye Sulpher spaw Epsome and ye Iron springs too wch are at Tunbridge; what its operation is I Cannot tell only tasteing halfe a Glass of it wch I did not Like. Ye well is walled in and a raile round wth stepps down and paved aboute for the Company to stand just at ye head to drinke, but I like no spring yt rises not quick and runs off apace that must have most spirit and good off the minerall it Comes from. There is fine walks and seates and places for the musick to make it acceptable and Comodious to ye Company. There is a large Market house and a town Hall over it in the town, but the Cathedrall is the finest sight there, the Carving of stone is very fine on the outside as also within, but its not so Large as Salisbury; its a square tower—no spire running up from it—but the small ones at Each Corner of ye tower for ornament.

There are two large jsles in ye middle of the Church wch leads to open gates of jron barrs and spikes, thence is an ascent of 20 steps, as Winchester Church is; up to ye Quire, where is a fine Large organ, so is the ffont well Carv’d and painted and Gilded, the bottom is white and grey Marble wth white marble statues round the stem to the ffoote, the top is made in a piramidy Carv’d and painted. The Windows in ye Quire are most delicately painted as Ever I saw, ye Curiosity of the worke and Coullours beyond others, but the size of the windows much Inferior being very small for a Church. Ye Glass is very thick and the Coullours Laid 103on it strikes through the glass, its Coullours tinctures all ye Glass, an art wch now is lost amongst us. At ye Alter is a Cloth and Coushons of purple ffigured Velvet the books the same, there is a broad tissue border of orrace work gold and silver, and at ye Edge is a ffine knotted fringe of purple silk and gold. The Bishops seate and Cushon the same wch was given by our good Queen Mary King Williams Queen when she was at Canterbery. The Chapter house is pretty Lofty supported by its own worke wth out pillars, its Ceiled with Irish oake, there are severall good monuments of ye Kings and queens and great men and severall Bishops. There is one Bishops statue yt was at ye paines to divide the Bible into Chapters wch makes it more Commodious to the Reader, and was a good Employment for him it being the proper subject of such a person of ye Church to studdy ye holy Scriptures wch gives the truest wisdom. There is the Chaire that all ye Arch Bishops are Inaugurated in when made Arch Bishops, its wood with Elbows. There is another statue of a Bishop Cut out in wood, his Robes and all well Carv’d and is ffirm and solid still, Except some small deffaceing by ye soldiers in ye warre tyme, and this has stood some 100 of yeares. There is a Chapple Called Thomas of Beckets Crown, the Roofe being Carv’d in the fform of a Crown and painted; there is also a pavement wch is much worne by the feete and knees off this Sts votarys that Came to do obeysance to his Shrine. There is one Brass statue in armour but its not so bright being less regarded than that at Warwick. Under the Cathedrall is a Large Church just Like St Ffaiths under St Pauls in London; this is given to the Ffrench protestants in the town for the worshipping God, it holds a vast number of people, its as full of Seates as Can thrust by Each other, it seemed a Little darkish, but they say when the doores are open its Light Enough, its so well arch’d that they Cannot hear them in the Cathedrall when singing—at least no wayes to disturb them. I went out another part of the town thro’ a good gate and so to Dover 15 mile much up hill and down, it was a good Road and Sort of Champion Country, yet at a distance you see many good woods and 104pretty houses wth Rows of trees. The Castle at Dover is discover’d five mile off standing on the Edge of a very steep hill on wch you ascend up to ye tower 120 steps up, whence you discover Callice in Ffrance. I saw the Clifts and hills plaine, but in some Cleer dayes towards the Evening you may see the towers and buildings of Callice, you likewise see a vast way on all sides sea ward and to ye Land. The Castle is Left much to decay and ruinated only a small appartment for the Governour of three or four Roomes, Else ye whole is spoyl’d the floores taken up and wanscoate pulled down. I was in the roome Queen Elizabeth was kept prisoner in till the death of queen Mary, the balcony just by in wch she saw the messenger Coming which she supposed was of Death to take off her head, but proved the Messenger that brought ye news of the Crown and Kingdom falling to her by the death of her sister. She afterwards repaired the Chapple but now its quite out of use, the Roofe and side being Mouldred down in many places. There is a fine dry well in ye Castle walled Curiously of a vast depth, the use of it was to Discover the work of the miners in tyme of a siege whereabout they were at worke, going down into this well discovered ye working by ye shakeing ye Earth at what side they were at worke, and so might defeate them by a Countermine. There is also a great well of 60 ffathom deep, the water is drawn up by a great wheele with a horse, notwithstanding its so deep yet its also wide and Exactly down Right, that I could see the water at the top, and when I flung a stone wch was a pretty while descending I saw when it plashed into ye water. There is on ye Plattform guns mounted wch being so high Commands the Road so as no ship Durst saile under it. Its a mighty steep Clift at the poynt which makes ones head Giddy to Look down to the sea. There is one Gun of Cast Brass of a Great Length finely Carv’d and adorn’d with ffigures, this Carrys a Ball a great way tho’ ye bore or muzzle of ye Gun be not bigger than my fist, so the Ball its Charged with Cannot be very bigg but it will do Execution a great way off; this was made at Utriche in Holland and presented to Queen 105Elizabeth; its worth a great sum of money for its Curiosity. There is a Little Cannon of ye same worke wch I have seen in ye Tower at London, there is a great Inscription on it. There are Gunns also planted in a Little ffort at ye ffoote of this steepe Clift to secure ye Road from Pirates, for as to Dover town it Looks like a place of no deffence, its a Little place, ye houses are Little and looks thrust together, there is a market house and town hall, its well enough for the accomodation of the seamen and to Supply the shipps wth anything, it seems where the town stands the sea formerly Came in and was Cover’d under water severall fathom deep so as the shipps Ride there in harbour. The town was only within the Limits of a wall wch Encompass’s ye Castle of which small matters appears, only of a great Banck and some parts of ye Ruines of ye ffoundation, but ye sea Leaving the shore so ffarre they have built this town wch has no gates.

Thence we went to Deale 7 mile, all by the sea side wch is Called the Downs wch sometymes is full of shipps all along the Road, but now there were not many. The Downes seems to be so open a place and the shoar so Easye for Landing I should think it no difficulty to Land a good army of men in a little tyme, there is only 3 Little fforts, or Castles they Call them, about a miles distance one to another—Warworth at Deal, and Sandwitch which holds a few Guns, but I should think they would be of Little Effect and give the Enemy no great trouble. Deale Looks like a good thriveing place, ye buildings new and neate Brickwork with gardens. I believe they are most masters of shipps houses and seamen or Else those that belong to ye Cordage and Saile makeing with other Requisites to shipping. All this Country about seemes to be a very fruitfull soyle and full of woods. You see a many pretty towns altogether almost, neate Churches and towers all the way you travell from Dover to Deale on yr Left hand, but beyond Deale you go a very deepe heavy sand for 4 mile to Sandwich. You go along by ye Sea side in sight of the jsle of Thannet wch is just over against Sandwich and is so near it you see ye Lands and jnclosures and woods and houses. 106I suppose it not a quarter of a League from Sandwich; this is a sad old town all timber building, you Enter by a gate and so you go out of it by a gate, but its run so to Decay that Except one or two good houses its just like to Drop down ye whole town.

Thence to Canterbery ten mile most thro’ Lanes. We come by my Lord Winchelseas house, garden and parke. Ye house is an old building—and so I Entered Canterbery another way through another gate and observ’d all wayes to ye town—being from hills gives the prospect of ye town very finely to the Eye and Indeed it Lookes like a good Citty altogether which way Ever you Looke on it in the approach. From thence to Maidstone I went 9 mile back the way I Came, and on the hill 6 mile off wch gave me so fine a sight of Canterbery as I came, did Likewise present a pleaseing prospect as I returned; it being a very high hill Commands the view of the Country a vast way and wth such variety of woods rivers and Inclosures and buildings that was very delicate and diverting. When I turned off the road to Maidstone I travell’d through Lanes and woods wch were very ffine but hid ye sight of the Country about being so Close; yt it was ye privatest Road I have travell’d. About 10 mile short of Maidstone you ascend a very steep hill wch discovers the whole Country at one view 40 mile off backward from whence we Came; and a few paces on the top of ye hill the descent of the hill on that other side is so great a fall that gives you as full a discovery of the Country all forward, both wch shew the variety of grounds intermixt wth Each other, and Lesser hills and plaines and Rivers wch such advanced grounds present ye travellers at one view; this is Called Boxlye hills and is part of the same Ridge of hills wch runs along by Epsome.

From Canterbery its 30 mile to Maidstone. Maidstone town is a very neate market town as you shall see in the Country, its buildings are mostly of timber worke, the streetes are Large. The Market Cross runs down in the middle of the greate streete a good way, there being three divisions in it, one good Cross for fruite, another for Corne, and another for all sorts of things, 2 of which is 107built over for the town hall and publick use. There is also a Large Gail. This streete notwithstanding the hall and Cross stands in the midst, is yet a good breadth on Each side and when it Comes to meete in one, is very broad and runs down a great Length quite to the bridge Cross the Medway which is not very broad here, yet it beares Barges that bring up burdens to the town: it seemes to divide the town for beyond the Bridge are buildings, whole streetes wch runs along ye river. There are very pretty houses about the town, looks like the habitation of Rich men. I believe its a wealthy place, there are severall pretty streetes. This was Market day being Thursday and it seemed to be well furnish’d wth all sorts of Commodityes and I observed there was great quantety’s of Leather but Could not Learn what particular thing that was their staple Comodity or tradeing in, but in Generall it seemed to be like a Little faire for the variety of wares tho’ they told me that was not so full a Market as some dayes because the Country people were taken up aboute their hopping so Could not bring things to Market. Thence to Rochester 8 mile, I came by a great many ffine hopp yards where they were at work pulling ye hopps. I came into Rochester at the other side, thro’ the wood on the hill I mentioned before, from whence the town and ye dock yards washed by the Medway, with the shipps at anchor was as acceptable a prospect and diverting as was ye other on the other side. I went through ye town just by the great Church wch is a good building but nothing Curious: also I went by ye Castle wall wch is but small what remaines of it; thence over the ffine bridge, and as I travell’d all along in sight of the Medway to Rochester, so Next day I went in sight of the Thames. I went that night to Gravesend wch is all by the side of Cherry grounds that are of severall acres of ground, and Runs quite down to the Thames wch is Convenient for to Convey the Cherrys to London, for here the Great produce of that fruite is wch supplyes ye town and Country with ye Kentish Cherrys, a good sort Fflemish fruite. I went 2 mile beyond Gravesend wch made it in miles 9 from Rochester, to a Little place Called Northfleete, its much in the woods. 108Thence I went to Dartfford 6 mile a little neate town; thence to Shutershill 2 mile on the top of wch hill you see a vast prospect Exactly Round it, being a great height of ground and such a descent Every way that Commands the sight of a vast tract of ground, wch appeares in ye greatest variety—some Lands Clothed wth trees, others with grass and flowers, gardens orchards wth all sorts of Herbage and tillage, wth ye severall Little towns all by ye river Eariff, Leigh, Woolwich &c, quite up to London, Greenwitch, Deadford, Blackwall—the Thames twisting and turning itself up and down bearing severall vessells and men of warre on it, and some under saile. On this part of the River I have seen 100 saile of shipps pass by in a morning which is one of the finest sights that is; added to this you view all Blackheath, the kings parke att Greenwitch, and a vast Country on yt side, besides ye places whence I came by: turning about I Could view at Least 20 mile. This is Esteemed as a noted Robbing place; on this hill are severall springs of water wch Comes from Allum which are very quick purges much Like Epsome and Dullage, but I thinke farre Exceeds Either in strength and opperation. Thence to Greenwitch 2 mile where I ferry’d over, and observ’d one Little shipp passed by me wch I observ’d was farr behind me in ye morning at Gravesend and sailed along in sight all the tyme and was gotten before me. I fferry’d to Popler and Stepney, so to Hackney 3 mile, thence to Tatnum 2 mile, thence to Endfield 5 miles, wch is all in Middlesex Ever since I fferryed over out of Kent. Thence to Amwellbery 10 mile in Hartfordshire wch I Compleated in 5 days, and went 184 miles, wch added to severall journeys I went in Hartfordshire and twice to Amwell and to London againe wch is 76 mile done, and ye severall journeys at London and in Hartfordshire, Comes to 150 more miles besides the Little Rideings to take ye aire at the parke or Else, wch were severall miles more if added together wch I have gone this year: but wthout that it is 226 miles, so add these to my Northern journey this yeare makes about 1045 miles of which I did not go above a hundred in the Coach.

109 I being in Kent this year shall Insert something of Tunbridge. The waters I have dranke many years wth great advantage—they are from the Steele and Iron mines, very quick springs Especially one well. There are two wth Large basons of stone fixt in ye Earth wth severall holes in the bottom by wch the springs bubble up and fill it so as it alwayes runns over, notwithstanding the quantety dipp’d up in a morning which is the usual tyme the Company Comes, and the nearer they drink it the spring ye better, it being a spiriteous water that is ready to Evaporate if Carry’d any way, as has been try’d by weighing the water by the well and Carrying them but to ye middle of the walks, it has Lost of ye weight, and much more the End of the whole walke: notwithstanding many has it brought to their Lodgings a mile or two off and drink them in their beds, nay, some have them brought to London wch is near 40 miles. They have the bottles filled and corked in the well under the Water and so seale down the Corks wch they say preserves it. They have made the wells very Comodious by the many good buildings all about it and 2 or 3 mile round which are Lodgings for the Company that drinke ye waters, and they have Encreased their buildings so much that makes them very Cheape. All people buy their own provision at ye market wch is just by ye wells and furnish’d wth great plenty of all sorts. Flesh, fowle and fish and in great plenty is brought from Rhye and Deale &c, this being ye road to London, so all the season the water is drank they stop here wch makes it very Cheape, as also the Country people Come wth all their backyard and barne door affords to supply them with, and their gardens and orchards, wch makes ye markets well stored and provision Cheape, wch the Gentry takes as a diversion while drinking the waters to go and buy their dinners; it being Every day’s market and runns the whole Length of ye walke, wch is between high trees on the market side for shade, and secured wth a Row of buildings on ye Right side, wch are shopps full of all sorts of toys, silver China, milliners and all sorts of Curious wooden ware wch this place is noted for, (the delicate neate and thin ware of wood both white and Lignum vitæ wood): besides 110wch there are two Large Coffee houses for tea, Chocolate &c, and two Roomes for ye Lottery and hazard board. These are all built wth an arch or pent house beyond ye shops, some of wch are supported by pillars like a peason, wch is paved wth brick and stone for ye drye walking of ye Company in raine; Else they walke wth out wch is a Clay and sand mixt together. They have been intending to make it gravell wch would be much better. All those Conveniency’s are added by ye Companyes Contributions Every year—what has been and so what will be. There is at ye Lower End of the walke, wch is a broad space before you Come to ye walls of ye wells, a Large sun-dial set upon severall steps of stone, thence you go straight along to a Chapple wch has been built by ye severall Collections of ye Company Every year; its a pretty place and Cost a great deal of money, and Every year there is Contribution for ye maintenance of a minister. There are severall buildings just about ye well where are severall apothecary’s shops, there is also a Room for ye post house. The post Comes Every day and returns Every day all the while the season of drinking ye waters is, from London and to it; Except Mondayes none Comes down from London, so on Satturdayes non goes up to London. You pay a penny Extraordinary for being brought from tunbridge town wch is 4 mile distance, that being a post town, you Likewise have the Conveniency of Coaches every day from London for 8 shillings apiece dureing the whole season, and Carriers twice a weeke.

There are severall bowling greens about ye wells, one just at it on Mount Sion and another up ye hill Called Mount Ephraim where is also a Large Chapple where the presbiterians have preaching: they have a minister wch by ye Collections of ye Company is also maintained all the winter to preach, as is the publick Chapple at the walks. There is severall other Bowling greens at a distance off a mile or two, fitted for Companys Lodging there, as Rust hall and Southbourough; they have all houses to ye greens, so the Gentlemen Bowle, the Ladies dance or walke in ye green in ye afternoones, and if wet dance in the houses, there being 111Musick maintained by the Company to play in the morning so long while they drink the waters, and in ye afternoon for danceing.

There are severall good taverns at the walks and all about to supply good wine and Brewhouses for beer and Bakers for Bread, but some of them Come from London and spoyle the market by raiseing ye price—so the higlers and Hucksters in a great measure. This whole Country is full of stone and jron, the Earth is Clay and Sand. About 3 mile off there is a good seate of the Lord Lesters Spenshurst wch stands in a very good parke; the house is but old—Large roomes and stone staires and windows, a good hall and gallery full of good old pictures, and other roomes of state; no ffurniture but old tapistry hangings. You have a most pleasant prospect as you go to it and from it, of valeys Cover’d with woods of great Length, and hills beyond on the other side. About 3 or 4 miles off is a seate of the Lord Abergauneys wch is Lord of the manour in a parke and fine woods all about it, the most of the Country is woody. There is 4 or 5 miles off a place they Cast Gunns, there being a great store of oare all over the Country: its a great Charge and Continuall attendance. When they have Lighted ye fire for to Cast bells or guns they must be Cautiously blowing, and ye mettle will be apt to fall down on the nose of ye bellows and harden; that if it be not still Cleared off would quickly damm up the fire and put it out. There are severall good houses all about and a pleasant place to Ride in in ye summer and dry weather, but a sad deep impassable Road when much Raine has fallen. As I was Rideing about I took a view of ye Country in many parts. There is a Little rivulet just by the wells wch divides ye Countys so that ye buildings are some in Kent some in Sussex.

About ffaint 4 or 5 mile off is a house of Lord Abergauny and parkes and much woods about it. Another way by Lakington Green and Groombridge about 4 mile off is an old house in a parck, pretty Large, Called Ashurst wch they say belonged to Alderman Ashurst family, but hurst wch signifyes grove or wood is a name all here about, as Spenshurst Lord Lesters house 4 mile another way in a good 112Parke and Speldhurst another parish 2 or 3 mile off and Goodhurst about 12 mile off the Wells. I went by Calvery plaine and Woods gate and so to a Little Market town Called Branklye; the way is much thro’ Lanes, being an Enclosed Country for the most part, wch is the Cause of these names as is much of Sussex wch joyns to Kent; there are places Called Billingshurst and Medhurst and Pendhurst &c. This Goodhurst I went to stands on a great hill and is seen severall miles, 2 mile from ye first ascent wch is at a Little village belonging to it, and to ye top of ye hill wch is ye middle of ye place. Its a pretty Large place—old timber houses, but ye Extent of ye parish is neare ten miles. They are a sort of yeomanry Gentry, about 2 or 3 or 400£ a year and Eate and drink well and Live Comfortably and Hospitably.

The old proverb was a yeoman of Kent wth one years rent Could buy out ye Gentlemen of Wales and knight of Sscales and a Lord of ye North Country—his Estate was so much better. All in these parts are the same Minerall waters being much on Iron mines. I returned againe to tunbridge wells the 12 mile, then I went from thence to Sumerhill about 4 or 5 mile off, thro’ much woods and lanes and some pleasant shades of Lofty trees. This is a seate of ye last viscount Purbecks—stands on a hill in a good Large parke, built of stone and Lookes in good repaire for ye most part, and good Large Roomes and Staircases and abundance of good sizeable Roomes Leading one out of another in visto’s thro’ the house, something Like our new way of building and Lofty Enough. Its Capable of being very fine wth visto’s of walks Cut through and across a great many, which delights the Rider or walker being so shady wth Lofty trees. There is remains of a bowling green wch is an advanced piece of ground above all the rest and discovers the Country a great Circuite round; then we returned to the wells againe 5 mile.

Then I went from ye wells to Rye 31 miles, by Ambursly 8 mile—this was good way being a drye summer, otherwise its deep being Clay for ye most part. I passed much through Lanes and little villages and near Rye I went thro’ 113a Comon full of Bushes and ffurze and heath; its a pretty steep hill I ascended wch is Called beggars hill and being Bartholomew tide here was a faire wch was Rightly Called beggarhill faire being the saddest faire I ever saw—ragged tatter’d Booths and people—but the musick and danceing Could not be omitted. This hill on the top gave the view of ye sea and a great tract of Land on Each side. That is Choak’d up wth sand wch formerly was a good haven for shipps; the sea does still Come up to Rhye town as yet but its shallow, and ye Castle wch stands a Little distance—a mile—is also left of the sea at least 4 mile. This is Winchelsea Castle but all between it and Winchelsea is nothing but Quagmire and marshes, drained in some places by ditches, and this is at Least 4 miles to the town. I did go to it but first fferry’d over a Little arm of the sea wch still finds a Current up to some of ye Land between Rhye and Winchelsea, then I rode round ye marshes on ye side of a hill in narrow foote paths, and passed over a Bridge Cross another Little arme of ye sea: near it is a gate on ye Bridge and Enters you into the Libertys of ye town wch stands on a pretty high hill. From it Lookes not of any great Circuite of ground by ye first view, being high, but in ye middle you see it has been a fine place for there were 36 Large Squares of building, the remaines of pieces of walls in most places you see, or else a hedge supplys that you see ye streetes were very broad and long and divided these squares, ye Cross streetes ye same. I rode up a middle streete and saw ye others run aCross of Equal breadth. Remaines of Churches and halls are to be seen but Else grass grows now where Winchelsea was as was once said of Troy. There are but a very few houses now, but ye Corporation still Continues and ye major and aldermen wch 13 makes most of ye Inhabitants. Mr Majors house Look’d neate as did ye parsonage. They Elect two Burgesses to it in ye parliament and its ye ancientest Corporation in England, so yt should Lord Major of London meete Mr Major of Winchelsea he must give him place: it was as flourishing place before the sea Left it that was in England, but now lost, as Rhye will be in a Little tyme if the sea 114Leaves it, wch is in a very faire way to do; and men now apply to quite Drane the marshes for Corn and grass Rather than Endeavour to Cleare ye Channell of the sand wch if it were done would be ye best harbour for shipps as formerly was. There are great vaults in Winchelsea wch was the merchants Cellars, and were houses.

There was some few brass and marble statues in the Church but much demolished as was ye Church. Rhye town is not very bigg—a little Market place—this is famous for fish; from hence all the good turbutt, pearle and Dorea and all sort of sea fish Comes to supply ye wells and London, but I could get little. Ye faire took up ye ffishermen. Indeed here I dranke Right french white wine and Exceeding good and then returned to ye wells 38 miles. In the Road from thence to London you go either by Fair lane and so Come just by Sr Harry Vaines house (now Lord Barnett), wch Lookes very finely wth ye Rows of trees about it, or Else you go by Sevenoake a sad deep Clay way after wett. You Come in sight of a great house on a hill Called Summerly, looks like a Little town it runs on so much ground, it was the Lord Purbeckes.

You also Come in sight of Nonsuch wch was a great house of the Kings Built by Charles the Second. You pass on to the Riverhead as they Call it, a fine spring of Cleare water yt runs thence in a Little River. is at the foote of a great hill Called Madam Scott hill so steepe as seldome is Either Rode down or up, and few Coaches but gaines the top of it by a Compass round it wch is steep Enough. This is 15 mile from the wells—thence to Ffarnburough: about 8 mile, thence to Brumley, and to London 15 more.

MY GREAT JOURNEY TO NEWCASTLE AND TO CORNWALL,

the account of many journeys into most parts of England, what observation and distance of one place to another in my travels.

Ffrom London to Albins in Essex 17 mile Sr Robert abdys, Whose house stands very pleasantly in a parke full 115of deer. The house on an advanced ground appeares to view at ye Entrance, but its old building: Large Roomes—some Rows of trees Lead up to it. Thence I returned home 17 mile more, from London to Bednal-green twice, and back againe 16 mile, from London to Highgate 4 miles to Mr Thomas’s house, where is a most exact garden wth all sorts of greens and flowers and fish ponds. There my Nephew Ffiennes Harrison wth Mr Showers went to fish wth me. Thence we went to Hampstead, so made it 5 mile home againe. I went from London twice and back againe from Kensington, in all 8 mile—this I put in only to know the number of miles yt I went in one yeare.

Ffrom London to Amwell bery wch is in Hartfordshire 19 mile, where I staid a day or two: thence to Bishopstafford in Essex 13 mile, thence to Dunmew 8 long miles thro’ severall Little villages; its very deep way Especially after raine. This is a Little Market town: they are altogether taken up about the spinning and prepareing for the Bayes. All along between that and Colchester you pass but halfe a mile Ere one Comes to two or 3 houses all along the road; its from Dunmow to Colchester 22 miles and mostly Clay deep way. Colchester is a Large town in the Compass of Ground. Fformerly there was 16 Churches tho’ now much of it is ruinated. A mile before you Come to the new town one Enters a little village which still is in the Limits of ye Citty and Majors jurisdiction; there is a pretty good house of ye Lord Lucas.

You Enter the town by a gate; there are 4 in all; there is a Large Streete wch runs a great Length down to the bridge, near a mile long: about the middle of it runs another broad streete and near its Length like stalls on purpose to Lay their Bayes when exposed to saile. Great quantetyes are made here and sent in Bales to London that is 44 miles distant. Ye whole town is Employ’d in spinning weaveing, washing drying and dressing their Bayes in wch they seeme very Industrious. There I saw ye Card they use to Comb and dress the Bayes, wch they Call ym testles, wch are a kind of Rush tops or something Like them wch they put in frames or Laths of wood. The town Looks 116Like a thriveing place by the substantiall houses and well pitched streetes wch are broad Enough for two Coaches to go a breast, besides a pitch’d walke on Either side by ye houses secured by stumps of wood, and is Convenient for 3 to walke together. Their buildings are of timber of Loame and Lathes and much tileing: the fashion of the Country runs much in Long Roofes and great Cantilivers and peakes. Out of these great streetes runs many Little streetes, but not very narrow—mostly old buildings Except a few houses builded by some Quakers, yt are brick and of the London mode. The town did Extend itself to the sea but now its ruines sets it 3 mile off. Ye low Grounds all about ye town are used for ye whitening their Bayes for wch this town is remarkable, and also for Exceeding good oysters, but its a dear place and to Grattifye my Curiosity to Eate them on ye place I paid dear. Its a town full of Dessenters, 2 meeteings very full besides anabaptists and quakers. Formerly the famous Mr Stockton was minister there till he Dyed. From Colchester to jpswitch is 10 mile, and thence to Dedom 9 miles, the way pretty good Except 4 or 5 miles they Call ye severalls, a sort of deep moore Ground and woody. At this place I passed over a wooden bridge, pretty Large, wth timber railes of wch make they build their bridges in these parts; and now I go into Suffolk wch is not so rich Land as ye part of Essex I passed through, wch was meadows and grounds wth great burdens of grass and Corn. So I went to jpswitch 9 mile more; this is a very Clean town and much bigger than Colchester is now. Ipswitch has 12 Churches, their streetes of a good size well pitch’d wth small stones; a good market Cross railed in. I was there on Satturday wch is their market day and saw they sold their Butter by ye pinte 20 ounces for 6 pence and often for 5d or 4d; they make it up in a mold just in the shape of a pinte pot and so sell it. Their Market Cross has good Carving, ye ffigure of justice Carv’d and Gilt. There is but 3 or 4 good houses in ye town—ye rest is much Like ye Colchester buildings, but it seems more shatter’d, and Indeed the town Looks a Little disregarded, and by Enquiry found it to be thro’ pride and sloth, for tho’ the sea would 117bear a ship of 300 tun up quite to ye Key, and ye ships of ye first Rate Can Ride wth in two mile of the town, yet they make no advantage thereof by any sort of manufacture, wch they might do as well as Colchester and Norwitch, so that ye shipps that brings their Coales goes Light away, neither do they address themselves to victual or provide for shipps. They have a Little dock where formerly they built ships of 2 or 3 tun, but now Little or Nothing is minded save a Little ffishing for ye supply of ye town. There is one pretty good house of ye Earle of Herrifords that marry’d one of Mr Norborns Daughters, that was Killed by Sr Tho: Montgomery. You Enter thro’ two Courts walled and divided by a breast wall on wch are Iron spikes pallasadoes: the Middle is a broad gravell walk fenced in wth stone walls; on Each side 3 or 4 steps up into the other Court, and so many steps more thro’ an arch into a third Court. This arch joyns a Low building wch are the offices Leaded on the top, and rail’d round, and Each End Enters into Chambers joyning to ye house, that is built round this Last Court from whence you Enter ye porch. The house is handsome all brick worke and brick pillars; a good hall, parlour, and drawing roome, and Large Closet, 2 or 3 other Roomes less, answereing it and a Billyard Roome above wth as many roomes of state all ffurnish’d wth good old things: a pretty staircase, but its all Little. There are 3 gardens on the one side wth grass and gravell walkes all kept neate, and good fruite; on the other side is one Large garden wth a sumer house in wch stands a Large statue, black, of a Gigantick form and proportion; this answeres the fine green house on ye other side. This town has many dessenters in it. Thence I went to Woodbridge 7 miles mostly Lanes, Enclosed Countrys. This is a Little Market town but has a great meeting for ye dessenters. Thence to Wickham 5 mile more but these are all very Long miles.

Thence to Saxmunday 8 miles more: this is a pretty bigg market town. The wayes are pretty deep, mostly Lanes very Little Commons. I pass’d by severall Gentlemens seates, one, Mr Dormers wch stands in a fine parke. Ye Entrance from ye Road thro’ rows of trees Discover’d 118the front and building very finely to view, being built wth stone and Brick and many sashes: Lookes like a new house wth ye open jron barr gates between pillars of stone the breadth of ye house. So to Bathfort 8 miles where is the remaines of ye walls of an abby and there is still a very fine Church all Carv’d in stone hollow work one tire above another to ye tower that ascends not very high but finely Carv’d: also hence I descended with Lowr grounds banck’d on Each side wth a brick wall, but Low and so a walk on it for foote people, and severall arches here and there to draine off the water, so that those bancks are to secure the Road from the Marshy ffenny water that of a great Extent on both sides is subject to. Thence I passed by some woods and Little villages of a few scattered houses, and Generally ye people here are able to give so bad a Direction that passengers are at a loss what aime to take: they know scarce 3 mile from their home, and meete them where you will and Enquire how farre to such a place they mind not where they are then, but tell you so farre, wch is the distance from their own houses to yt place. I saw at a distance as I descended some of their hills a Large place that Look’d nobly and stood very high Like a Large town. They told me it was called Either Stowle or Nole I cannot tell wch. I Rode in sight of St Georges Channell In the way from Colchester and Ipswitch and so to Norwich. Sometymes it was in view then Lost againe. To Beckle is 8 mile more wch in all was 36 miles from Ipswitch, but Exceeding Long miles; they do own they are 41 measured miles. This is a Little market town but its the third biggest town in ye County of Suffolke—Ipswitch Berry and this. Here was a good big meeteing place at Least 400 hearers and they have a very good minister one Mr Killinghall; he is but a young man but seemed very serious. I was there ye Lords day. Sr Robert Rich is a great supporter of them and Contributed to ye building the meeteing place wch is very neate. He has a good house at ye End of the town wth fine gardens. There are no good buildings the town, being old timber and plaister work Except his and one or two more. There is a pretty 119bigg market Cross, and a great Market kept. There is a handsome stone built Church and a very good publick minister whose name is Armstrong: he preaches very well they say notwithstanding the town is a sad Jacobitish town. This Chooses no parliamt men. At ye towns End one passes over the river Waveny on a wooden bridg railed wth timber and so you Enter into Norfolk: its a Low flatt ground all here about, so that the Least raines they are overflowed by ye River and Lye under water as they did when I was there, so that the roade Lay under water wch is very unsafe for strangers to pass by reason of ye holes and quicksands and Loose bottom. The ordinary people both in Suffolk and Norfolk knitt much and spin, some wth ye Rock and fusoe as the French does, others at their wheeles out in the streete and Lanes as one passes. Its from this town to Norwitch 12 miles, and its 10 to Yarmouth where they build some small shipps, and is a harbour for them and where they victual them. Also Harwitch about 12 or 14 miles also, but the miles are here as long again as about London and pretty deep way, Especially after raines: these miles are much Longer than most miles in Yorkshire.

Norwitch opens to view a mile distance by the help of a hill whereon is a little village. As I observe most of ye great towns and Cittys have about them Little villages as attendants or appendix’s to them wch are a sort of Subburbs, there being stragling houses for ye most part all the way between yt and ye gates. You pass over a high bridge yt leads on over a high Causey of a pretty Length wch Lookes somewhat dangerous being fenced with trenches from its bancks (pretty deep) that’s on both sides to secure it from the water, and these trenches runns in many places round the Low grounds to drain them, wch Employ’d to whiten and Bleach their woollen stuff the manufacture of the place. This Long Causey brings you to the Large stone bridge over the river into wch those trenches Empty themselves.

Then you proceed to the Citty wch is walled round full of towers Except on the river side wch serves for the wall. 120They seeme ye best in repaire of any walled Citty I know tho’ in some places there are little breaches, but the Carving and battlements and towers Lookes well. I enter’d the west gate. There are 12 gates in all and 36 Churches, which is to be seen in a Clear Day altogether on the Castle walls—I told 30 myself there. They are built all of flints well headed or Cut wch makes them Look blackish and shineing. The streetes are all well pitch’d wth small stones and very Clean, and many very broad streetes: yt I Entred in first was very broad for 2 Coaches or Carts to pass on Either side, and in the middle was a great well house wth a wheele to wind up the water for the good of ye publick. A Little further is a Large pond walled up wth brick a mans height wth an Entrance on one End. A Little farther was a building on which they were at work, design’d for a water house to supply ye town by pipes into their houses wth water. At a Little distance was another such a pond walled in as I described before. These things fill up the middle of this spacious streete wch is for use and also ornament, ye spaces Each side being so broad. This brings you into a broad space Called the Hay market wch is on a hill, a very steep descent all well pitch’d as before: this Comes to another space for a market to sell hoggs in, and opens farther into divisions of buildings that begins severall streetes yt runs off good Lengths and are of a tollerable size. One runs along behind wch is all for stalls for ye Country butchers that bring their meate for ye supply of ye town, wch pay such a Rent for them to ye town. On ye other side are houses of ye town butchers, ye Inhabitants: by it is a Large market for fish, wch are all at a Little distance from ye heart of ye Citty, so is not annoy’d wth them. There is a very Large market place and hall and Cross for fruite and little things Every day, and also a place under pillars for ye Corn market.

The building round here is Esteemed ye best and here is the town Hall, but all their buildings are of an old form, mostly in deep poynts and much tileing as has been observ’d before, and they playster on Laths wch they strike out into squares like broad free stone on ye outside, wch 121makes their fronts Look pretty well; and some they build high and Contract ye roofes resembling the London houses, but none of brick Except some few beyond the river wch are built of some of ye Rich factors like ye London buildings. There is in ye middle of ye town the Duke of Norfolks house of Brick and stone, wth severall towers and turrets and balls yt Looks well, wth Large gardens, but ye Inside is all demolished only ye walls stand and a few Roomes for offices but nothing of state or tollerable for use.

On ye Castle hill you see ye whole Citty at once, being built round it: its a vast place and takes up a Large tract of ground, its 6 miles in Compass.

Here is the County hall and Goale where ye assizes are held and ye Sessions. Nothing of ye Castle remaines but a green space, and under it is also a Large space for ye beast market, and 3 tymes in ye year is there a very great faire kept to wch resort a vaste Concourse of people, and wares—a full trade. Ye whole Citty Lookes Like what it is, a Rich thriveing Industrious place; Satturday is their great market day. They have beside ye town hall a hall distinct wch is the scaleing hall where their stuffs are all measured, and if they hold their breadths and Lengths they are scaled, but if they are deffective there is a fine Layd on ye owner and a private marke on ye stuff wch shews its defficiency.

There was also ye mint which they Coyn’d, but since the old money is all new Coyn’d into mill’d money, that Ceases. Here there is a ffine large Cathedrall and very Loftly, but nothing remarkable of monuments or else: by it is 3 hospitalls for boys girls and old people who spinn yarne, as does all ye town besides for ye Crapes, Callimancos and damaskes wch is ye whole business of the place. Indeed they are arrived to a great perfection in worke, so fine and thinn and glossy; their pieces are 27 yards in Length and their price is from 30 shillings to 3 pound as they are in ffineness. A man Can weave 13 yards a day, I saw some weaveing; they are all Employ’d in spinning, knitting weaveing, dying, scouring or bleaching stuffs. Their hospitalls are well provided for; there are 32 women in one 122as many men in ye other, there is also a good free schoole. There is a great many Cerimonyes in ye Choice and Swearing their major: they Elect him the first day of May and yn prepare for his being sworne on Holly Thursday. They new washe and plaister their houses wth in and without wch they strike out in squares like free stone. All ye streete in wch this mayor Elect’s house, is very exact in beautifying themselves and hanging up flaggs ye Coullrs of their Companyes, and dress up pageants and there are playes and all sorts of show that day—in Little what is done at ye Lord major of London show. Then they have a great feast wth fine flaggs and scenes hung out, musick and danceing. I was in ye hall they keep their feast in and saw some of their preparations: for that day being about a fortnight to it. The town is a mile and a halfe from ye North to ye South gate. Just by one of ye Churches there is a wall made of flints that are headed very finely and Cut so exactly square and Even to shutt in one to another that ye whole wall is made without Cement at all they say, but it appears to be very little if any morter; it Looks well, very smooth shineing and black.

A great many descenters are in this Citty, the Gentlewoman that was my acquaintance there dyed 10 dayes before I came thither so I made no great stay there but to see about ye town.

Thence I went to Windham a Little market town 5 miles, mostly on a Causey ye Country being Low and moorish, and ye Road on ye Causey was in many places full of holes tho’ its secured by a barr at which passengers pay a penny a horse in order to the mending ye way, for all about is not to be Rode on Unless its a very dry summer. Thence we went mostly through Lanes where you meete ye ordinary people knitting 4 or 5 in a Company under the hedges. To Attlborough, 5 mile more to a Little village, still finding the Country full of spinners and Knitters: thence to Thetford 6 miles more, wch was formerly a large place but now much decay’d and the ruines only shews it dimentions. There is a very high hill quite round stands up on one side of it and Can scarcely be ascended so steep. Here I Lay, wch is still 123in Norfolk. Next day I went to Euston Hall wch was ye Lord arlingtons and by his only daughters marriage wth ye Duke of Grafton is his sons by her. Its two mile from thetford, it stands in a Large parke 6 miles about. Ye house is a Roman H of brick: 4 towers wth balls on them; the windows are Low and not sashes Else ye roomes are of a good size and height, a good stair case full of good pictures, a Long gallery hung wth pictures at Length, on ye one side the Royal family from K: Henry ye 7th by ye Scottish race, his Eldest daughter down to ye present King William and his queen Mary. The other side are forreign princes from ye Emperour of Moroccoe, ye Northern and Southern princes and Emperour of Germany. There is a square in ye middle where stands a billiard table, hung wth outlandish pictures of Heroes; there is Count Egmint and Horn &c &c, but ye End of ye Roome is ye Duke and Dutchess of Grafton’s picture at length. Thence I enter’d into dineing and drawing roome and bed Chambers of a very good size and good fret work on ye Cieling: in one of the roomes was ye Dutchess of Cleavelands picture in a sultaness dress, the Duke of Grafton being King Charles ye seconds base son by her. There was also another picture of ye Royal family. K Charles ye firsts 5 Children altogether. I have often seen 3 wch was K: Charles ye second, K: James and ye Princess of Orange; but here was also ye Lady Elizabeth and ye Duke of Glocester a Little Infant on a pillow. In another place there is the queen mothers picture the Lady Henrietta drawn Large. There is a fine hall and parlour below pav’d wth free stone. There are good gardens wth fountaines and some stone statutes, a Cannall by ye side, a Large Court at ye Entrance wth 3 Iron barr gates wch open to ye ffront, divided wth stone pillars and balls. Ye Court wth out is walled round and ye wall is Carry’d a great Length round ye back yards. Within this is another Court wth Iron spike pallasadoes divided Every 2 or 3 yards by little stone pillars with balls. There are severall Rows of trees runs of a great length thro’ the parke a visto to ye front of ye house, wch lookes nobly tho’ not just of ye new modell’d way of building. At ye back gate 124I crossed over ye river Waveney wch is ye division of ye two County’s and enter’d Suffolk and pass’d over perfect downs, Champion Country just like Salisbery plaine; and ye winds have a pretty power here and blows strongly in ye winter not well to be Endured.

So to St Edmundsbery 8 mile, but as has been often observ’d before, the miles are very long. I pass’d by two or 3 Little villages, and about 2 mile off there is ye town of St Edmds Bury wch appeares standing on a great hill, ye towers and buildings Look so Compact and well together wth the trees and gardens thick about it ye prospect was wonderfully pleasant. A mile off by a little village I descended a hill which made ye prospect of ye town still in view and much to advantage, its but two parishes. Ye market Cross has a dyal and Lanthorn on ye top, and there being another house pretty Close to it high built wth such a tower and lanthorn also, wth ye two Churches towers and some other buildings pretty good, made it appear nobly at a distance. This high house is an apothecarys—at least 60 stepps up from ye ground and gives a pleaseing prospect of ye whole town. Severall streetes but no good buildings Except this, the rest are great old houses of timber and mostly of ye old forme of ye Country wch are long peaked roofes of tileing. This house is the new mode of building; 4 roomes of a floore pretty sizeable and high, well furnish’d, a drawing roome and Chamber full of China and a damaske bed Embroyder’d: 2 other Roomes, Camlet and Mohaire beds; a pretty deale of plaite in his wives Chambers and parlours below, and a large shop. He is esteem’d a very Rich man. He shewed me a Curiosity of an Herball all written out wth Every sort of tree and herb dryed and Cut out and pasted on the Leaves; it was a doctor of Physicks work that left it him a Legacy at his Death, it was a fine thing and would have delighted me severall dayes but I was passant. There was two streetes were broad and very Long, out of wch ran a Cross 5 or 6 streetes more wch are as good as in most Country towns—they are well pitch’d wth small stones. There are many descenters in ye town—4 meeteing places 125wth ye Quakers and anabaptists. There is only the ruines of ye abby walls and the fine gate at the Entrance that remaines—stone, well Carv’d. It seemes to be a thriveing Industrious town; 4 gates in it.

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