HERE BEGINS MY NORTHERN JOURNEY IN MAY 1697 (continued 4)

There is good Marble amongst those Rocks. As I walked down at this place I was walled on both sides by those inaccessible high rocky barren hills w^ch hangs over 164ones head in some places and appears very terrible, and from them springs many Little Currents of water from the sides and Clefts, w^ch trickle down to some Lower part where it runs swiftly over the stones and shelves in the way, w^ch makes a pleasant Rush and murmuring noise, and Like a snowball is Encreased by Each spring trickling down on either side of those hills, and so descends into the bottoms w^ch are a moorish ground in w^ch in many places the waters stand, and so forme some of those Lakes as it did here. Y^e Confluence of all these little springs being gathered together in this lake, w^ch was soe deep as the Current of water y^t passed through it was scarce to be perceived till one Came to the farther End from whence it run a good little River and pretty quick, over w^ch many bridges are Laid. Here I Came to villages of sad little hutts made up of drye walls, only stones piled together and y^e Roofs of same slatt; there seemed to be little or noe tunnells for their Chimneys and have no morter or Plaister within or without. For the most part I tooke them at first sight for a sort of houses or Barns to fodder Cattle in, not thinking them to be dwelling houses, they being scattering houses, here one, there another, in some places they may be 20 or 30 together; and the Churches the same. It must needs be very Cold dwellings, but it shews some thing of y^e Lazyness of y^e people; indeed here and there there was a house plaister’d, but there is sad Entertainment—that sort of Clap bread and butter and Cheese and a Cup of beer all one Can have, they are 8 mile from a market town and their miles are tedious to go both for illness of way and length of y^e miles.

They reckon it but 8 mile from the place I was at the night before, but I was 3 or 4 hours at Least going it. Here I found a very good smith to shoe y^e horses, for these stony hills and wayes pulls off a shoe presently, and wears them as thinn that it was a Constant Charge to shoe my horses every 2 or 3 dayes, but this smith did shoe them so well and so good shoes y^t they held some of the shooes 6 weekes. Y^e stonyness of the wayes all here about teaches them y^e art of makeing good shooes and setting them on 165fast. Here I cross’d one of y^e stone bridges y^t was pretty Large w^ch Entred me into Cumberlandshire. This River together with y^e additionall springs Continually running into it all the way from those vaste precipices Comes into a Low place and form a broad water w^ch is very Cleer and Reaches 7 mile in Length, Uleswater its Called, such another water as that of Wiandermer only that reaches 10 mile in Length, from Amblside to y^e sea, and this is but 7 such miles Long. Its full of such sort of Stones and flatts in the bottom as y^e other, neer the brimm where its Shallowe you see it Cleer to y^e bottom; this is secured on Each side by such formidable heights as those Rocky ffells in same manner as the other was. I rode the whole Length of this water by its side, sometyme a Little higher upon the side of the hill and sometyme just by the shore, and for 3 or 4 miles I Rode through a fine fforest or Parke where was deer skipping about and haires, w^ch by meanes of a good Greyhound I had a Little Course, but we being strangers could not so fast pursue it in the grounds full of hillocks and ffurse and soe she Escaped us. I observed the boundaries of all these great waters (which are a sort of deep Lakes or kind of standing waters) are those sort of Barren Rocky hills w^ch are so vastly high. I Call this a standing water because its not like other great Rivers as y^e Trent Severne, Hull or Thames &c. to appear to Run w^th a streame or Current, but only as it Rowles from side to side Like waves as the wind moves it; its true at the End of this being a Low fall of Ground it runs off in a Little streame. There is Exceeding good ffish here and all sorts of provision at y^e market towns. Their market town was Peroth 10 long miles. A mile or two beyond this Ullswater,—Tuesday is the market day w^ch was the Day I came thither. Its a Long way for y^e market people to goe but they and their horses are used to it and go w^th much more facility than strangers. At y^e end of this Ullswater is a fine round hill Look’d as green and full of wood very pleasant, w^th grass and Corne very ffruitefull, and hereabout we Leave these Desart and Barren Rocky hills, not that they are Limitted to Westmoreland only for had I gone farther to y^e 166Left hand into Cumberland I should have found more such, and they tell me farr worse for height and stony-nesse about White haven side and Cockermouth, so y^t tho’ both the County’s have very good land and fruitfull, so they equally partake of y^e bad, tho’ Indeed Westmoreland takes it name from its aboundings in springs which distilling itself on Lower ground, if of a spungy soile made it marshy or Lakes, and in many places very fruitfull in summer graine and grasse, but y^e northerly winds blow Cold so long on them y^t they never attempt sowing their Land with wheate or Rhye. Y^e stones and slatt about Peroth Look’d so Red y^t at my Entrance into the town thought its buildings were all of brick, but after found it to be the Coullour of the stone w^ch I saw in the Quarrys Look very Red, their slatt is the same w^ch Cover their houses. Its a pretty Large town—a good Market for Cloth that they spinn in the Country—hempe and also woollen. Its a great Market for all sorts of Cattle, meate Corne &c &c. Here are two Rivers one Called y^e Emount w^ch parts Cumberland and Westmoreland, w^ch bridge I should have passed over had I Come the direct Roade from Kendall to Peroth, but strikeing off to Ambleside to Wiandermer I came another End of y^e town. In this River are greate falls of waters Call’d Cataracts, by Reason of the Rock and shelves in it w^ch makes a great noise w^ch is heard more against foul weathers into the town, tho’ the bridge be halfe a mile out of y^e town. The other River is Called Louder w^ch gives name to Lord Landsdown’s house Call’d Louder hall w^ch is four mile from Peroth. I went to it through fine woods, the front is just faceing the great roade from Kendall and Lookes very nobly, w^th severall Rows of trees w^ch Leads to Large jron gates, open barres, into the stable yard w^ch is a fine building on y^e one side of y^e house very uniform, and just against it is such another Row of buildings y^e other side of y^e house Like two wings w^ch is the offices. Its built Each Like a fine house jutting out at Each End and y^e middle is w^th Pillars, white, and Carvings Like the Entrance of a building. These are just Equal and alike and Encompass the two sides of the first Court w^ch Enters, with 167Large jron gates and jron Palasadoes in the breadth, and then there is an ascent of 15 stone steps turned round, very Large, and on the top Large jron gates pallisad of jron betweene stone pillars, w^ch runs the breadth of the front. This Court is with paved walks of broad stone, one broad one to the house, y^e other of same breadth runs aCrosse to the stables and offices, and so there is 4 Large Squares of grass in w^ch there is a large Statue of Stone in the midst of Each, and 4 Little Cupids or Little Boys in Each Corner of the 4 squares. Then one ascends severall more steps to another Little Court v^th open Iron Railes, and this is divided Into severall grass plotts by paved walks of stone to the severall doores, some of w^ch are straight, others slope: the grass plotts being seven and in Each statue the middle-most is taller than the rest, this is just the front of y^e house where you Enter a porch w^th Pillars of Lime stone, but y^e house is y^e Red sort of stone of y^e Country. Below staires you Enter a space that Leads severall wayes to all the offices, and on one side is a Large parlour w^ch Lookes out on these green plotts w^th images. The staircase very well wanscoated and Carv’d, at y^e top you are Landed into a noble hall very Lofty, the top and sides are exquisitely painted by y^e best hand in England which did the painting at Windsor. The Top is the Gods and goddesses that are sitting at some great feast and a great tribunal before y^m; Each Corner is the seasons of the yeare w^th the variety of weather Raines and rainbows, stormy winds, sun shine, snow and frost with multitudes of other fancys and varietyes in painting and Looks very natural—it Cost 500^£ that roome alone. Thence into a Dineing room and drawing roome well wanscoated of oake, Large pannells plaine, no frettwork nor Carvings or Glass worke, only in Chimney pieces. 3 handsome Chambers, one scarlet Cloth strip’d and very fashionably made up, the hangings the same, another flower’d Damaske Lined with fine jndian Embroidery, the third Roome had a blew satten bed Embroider’d. In this Roome was very fine orris hangings in w^ch was much silk and gold and silver; a Little Roome by in w^ch was a green and white Damaske Canopy bed w^ch was 168hung w^th some of the same hangings being made for y^e Duke of Lortherdale and had his armes in many places—by his Dying were sold to Lord Landsdon.

They Containe a Scottish story of the 4 quarters of the yeare. The roomes are all well pitch’d and well ffinish’d, and many good Pictures of y^e family, and severall good fancy’s of human and animals, a good gallery so adorn’d w^ch Leads to a Closet that Looks into y^e Chappell; all things very neate tho’ nothing Extraord^y besides y^e hall painting. The Chimney pieces are of a dark Coull^d Marble w^ch is taken out of the ground just by—its well polish’d. There was some few white marble vein’d, but that is not Dug out of this Country. The house is a flatt rooffe and stands amidst a wood of Rows of trees, w^ch w^th these statues and those in two gardens on Each side (w^ch for their walks and plantations is not ffinish’d but full of Statues) which with the house is so well Contrived to be seen at one view. Y^e Lady Landsdown sent and treated me with a Breakfast, Cold things and sweete meates all serv’d in plaite, but it was so Early in the morning that she being jndisposed was not up. So I returned back 4 mile to Peroth and Came in sight of Severall Genteele seates or Gentlemens houses, and Came by a Round green spott of a Large Circumfference which they keep Cut round w^th a banke round it like a Bench; its story is that it was the table a great Giant 6 yards tall, used to Dine at, and there Entertain’d anoth^r of nine yards tall which he afterwards killed; there is the Length in the Church yard how far he Could Leape—a great many Yards. There was also on the Church at Peroth a fine Clock w^ch had severall motions—there was the Starrs and signes, there was the Encrease and Changes of y^e moone, by a Darke and golden side of a Little Globe. A mile from Peroth in a Low bottom and moorish place stands Mag and her sisters; the story is that these soliciting her to an unlawfull Love by an Enchantment are turned w^th her into stone; the stone in the middle w^ch is Call’d Mag is much bigger and have some fforme Like a statue or ffigure of a body, but the Rest are but soe many Craggy stones, but they affirme they Cannot be Counted twice alike as is 169the story of Stonidge, but the number of these are not above 30. However what the first design of placeing them there Either as a marke of y^t sort of moorish Ground or what Else, the thing is not so wonderfull as that of Stonidge, because there is noe such sort of stone in 20 miles off those downs and how they of so vast a bulk and weight should be brought thither, whereas all this Country abounds with Quarrys of stone and its mostly Rocks. The waye from thence to Carlisle over much heath where they have many stone Quarrys and Cut much peate and turff w^ch is their Chief fuel. Its reckon’d but 16 mile from Peroth to Carlisle, but they are pretty Long, besides my going out of y^e waye above 3 or 4 mile w^ch made it 20. They were very Long and I was a great while Rideing it. You pass by the Little hutts and hovels the poor Live in Like Barnes—some have them daub’d w^th mud-wall—others drye walls.

Carlisle stands in view at Least 4 mile distant, y^e town is walled in and all built of stone. The Cathedrall stands high and very Eminent to be seen above y^e town. You Enter over the Bridge and Double gates w^ch are jron grates and Lined w^th a Case of doores of thick timber, there are 3 gates to the town, one Called the English gate at which I entred. The other the jrish w^ch Leads on to Whitehaven and Cockermouth, the other y^e Scottish gate through which I went into Scotland. The walls of the town and Battlements and towers are in very good Repaire and Looks well. Y^e Cathedrall all built of stone which Looked stately but nothing Curious; there was some few houses as y^e Deans and treasurer and some of y^e Doctors houses walled in with Little gardens, their fronts Looked Gracefully; Else I saw no house Except the present Majors house of brick and stone, and one house which was y^e Chancellors built of stone very Lofty, 5 good sarshe windows in y^e front, and this within a Stone wall’d Garden well kept, and Iron gates to discover it to view with stone Pillars. Ye streetes are very broad and handsome well Pitched.

I walked round the walls and saw the River w^ch twists and turns itself round the grounds, Called the Emount, w^ch at 3 or 4 miles off is flow’d by the sea. The other River is 170the Essex w^ch is very broad and Ebbs and flows about a mile or two off. There Remaines only some of the walls and ruines of y^e Castle, w^ch does shew it to have been a very strong town formerly. The walls are of a prodigious thickness and vast great stones, its moated round and with draw bridges. There is a Large Market place w^th a good Cross and hall, and is well supply’d as I am Inform’d w^th provision at Easye rate, but my Landlady notwithstanding ran me up the Largest Reckoning for allmost nothing, it was y^e dearest Lodging I met with and she pretended she Could get me nothing else; so for 2 joynts of mutton and a pinte of wine and bread and beer I had a 12 shilling Reckoning, but since I find tho’ I was in the biggest house in town I was in the worst accomodation, and so found it, and a young giddy Landlady y^t Could only Dress fine and Entertain the soldiers. From hence I tooke a guide the next day and so went for Scotland and Rode 3 or 4 mile by y^e side of this River Emount w^ch is full of very good ffish. I Rode sometymes on a high Ridge over a hill, sometymes on the sands, it turning and winding about that I went almost all the way by it and saw them with boates fishing for Salmon and troute, w^ch made my journey very pleasant. Leaving this River I Came to the Essex w^ch is very broad and hazardous to Crosse Even when the tyde is out, by which it leaves a broad sand on Each side, which in some places is unsafe, made me take a good guide which Carry’d me aboute and a Crosse some part of it here, and some part in another place, it being Deep in y^e Channell where I did Crosse w^ch was in sight of y^e mouth of the river that runs into the sea. On the sand before the water was quite gone from it I saw a great bird w^ch Look’d almost black picking up ffish and busking in the water, it Looked like an Eagle and by its dimentions Could scarce be any other bird. Thence I went into Scotland over the river Serke which is also flowed by y^e sea, but in the Summer tyme is not soe deep but Can be pass’d over—tho’ pretty deep but narrow. It affords good ffish, but all here about w^ch are Called borderers seem to be very poor people w^ch I impute to their sloth. Scotland this 171part of it is a Low Marshy ground where they Cutt turff and peate for the fewell, tho’ I should apprehend y^e sea might Convey Coales to them. I see Little that they are Employ’d besides ffishing w^ch makes provision plentifull or Else their Cutting and Carving turff and peate, w^ch the women and great Girles bare legged does Lead a horse w^ch draws a sort of carriage, the Wheeles like a Dung-pott and hold about 4 wheele barrows. These people tho’ with naked Leggs are yet wrapp’d up in plodds, a piece of woollen Like a Blanket, or Else Rideing hoods—and this when they are in their houses. I tooke them for people w^ch were sick, seeing 2 or 3 great wenches as tall and bigg as any woman sat hovering between their bed and Chimney corner, all jdle doing nothing or at Least was not settled to any work tho’ it was nine of the Clock when I Came thither, haveing gone 7 long miles that morning. This is a Little Market town Called Adison Bank the houses Look just Like the booths at a fair, I am sure j have been in some of them that were tollerable dwellings to these, they have no Chimneys, their smoke Comes out all over the house and there are great holes in y^e sides of their houses w^ch Letts out the smoake when they have been well smoaked in it. There is no Roome in their houses but is up to y^e thatch and in which are 2 or 3 beds, Even to their parlours and buttery, and notwithstanding y^e Cleaning of their parlour for me I was not able to beare the roome; the smell of the hay was a perfume and what I Rather Chose to stay and see my horses Eate their provender in the stable than to stand in y^t roome for I Could not bring my self to sit down. My Landlady offered me a good dish of ffish and brought me butter in a Lairdly Dish with the Clap bread, but I Could have no stomach to Eate any of the ffood they should order, and finding they had noe wheaten bread I told her I Could not Eate their Clapt out bread, soe I bought the ffish she got for me w^ch was full Cheape Enough, nine pence for two pieces of Salmon halfe a one neer a yard Long, and a very Large trout of an amber Coullour, soe drinking w^th out Eateing some of their wine w^ch was Exceeding good Claret w^ch they stand Conveniently for to have from France, 172and Indeed it was the best and truest Ffrench wine I have dranck this seven year and very Clear, I had y^e first tapping of y^e Little vessell and it was very fine. Then I went up to their Church w^ch Looks Rather Like some Little house built of stone and bricke such as our ordinary people in a village Live in. Y^e doores were and y^e Seates and pulpit was in so disregarded a manner that one would have thought there was no use of it, but there is a parson which Lives just by, whose house is y^e best in the place, and they are all fine folks in their Sundays Cloathes. I observe y^e Church yard is full of grave stones pretty Large with Coates of armes, and some had a Coronet on the Eschutcheons Cut in the stone. I saw but one house that Look’d Like a house about a quarter of a mile, w^ch was some gentlemans that was built 2 or 3 roomes and some over them of brick and stone, the rest were all Like Barns or hutts for Cattle. This is threescore miles from Edenborough and the neerest town to this place is 18 miles, and there would not have been much better entertainement or accomodation, and their miles are soe long in these Countrys made me afraid to venture, Least after a tedious journey I should not be able to get a bed I Could Lye in. It seemes there are very few towns Except Edenburough Abberdeen and Kerk w^ch Can give better treatement to strangers, therefore for the most part persons y^t travell there go from one Noblemans house to another. Those houses are all Kind of Castles and they Live great tho’ in so nasty a way as all things are in even those houses one has Little Stomach to Eate or use anything, as I have been told by some that has travell’d there, and I am sure I mett with a sample of it enough to discourage my progress farther in Scotland. I attribute it wholly to their sloth for I see they sitt and do Little. I think there were one or two at Last did take spinning in hand at a Lazy way. Thence I tooke my ffish to Carry it to a place for the English to dress it and repass’d the Serke and the River Essex and there I saw y^e Common people men women and Children take off their shooes, and holding up their Cloathes wade through the rivers when y^e tide was out, and truely some there were 173that when they Come to y^e other side put on shoes and stockings and had ffine Plodds Cast over them and their Garb seemed above y^e Common people; but this is their Constant way of travelling from one place to anoth^r—if any river to pass they make no use of Bridges and have not many. I Came to Long town w^ch is 3 long mile from Addison Bank and is Called a Border and Indeed is very like y^e Scotsland. Thence I Cross’d over a tedious long heath to Brampton a mile over Lime River and here I had my dinner dress’d—thence to Mucks hall 6 miles. Here I pass’d by my Lord Carletons which stands in the midst of woods. You goe through Lanes and Little sort of woods or hedge rows and many Little purling rivers or Brooks out of y^e rocks. At Muneks Hall I Cross’d such another brooke and so out of Cumberland I Entred Northumberland. This is y^e place y^e judges Dine, its a sorry place for Entertainement of such a Company; here the Sherriffs meete them, it being the Entrance of Northumberland w^ch is much Like the other County. This it seemes Camden relates to be a Kingdom. This I am sure of, the more I travell’d Northward the Longer I found y^e miles, I am sure these 6 miles and y^e other 6 miles to Hartwhistle might with modesty be esteemed double the Number in most of y^e Countys in England, Especially in and about 30 or 40 miles off London. I did not go 2 of those miles in an hour. Just at my Entrance into Northumberland I ascended a very steep hill of w^ch there are many, but one about 2 mile forward was Exceeding steep, full of great Rocks and stone—some of it along on a Row (the remainder of the Picts walls or ffortification) at y^e bottom of w^ch was an old Castle the walls and towers of which was mostly Standing. Its a sort of Black moorish ground and so wet I observ’d as my Man Rode up that sort of precipice or steep his horses heeles Cast up water every step, and their feete Cut deepe in, Even quite up to y^e top. Such up and down hills and sort of boggy ground it was and y^e night Drawing fast on, y^e miles so Long, that I tooke a guide to direct me to avoid those ill places. This Hartwhistle is a Little town, there was one Inn but they had noe hay nor would get none, and when my 174servants had got some Else where they were angry and would not Entertaine me, so I was forced to take up in a poor Cottage w^ch was open to y^e Thatch and no partitions but hurdles plaistered. Indeed y^e Loft as they Called it w^ch was over the other roomes was shelter’d but w^th a hurdle; here I was fforced to take up my abode and y^e Landlady brought me out her best sheetes w^ch serv’d to secure my own sheetes from her dirty blanckets, and Indeed I had her fine sheete to spread over y^e top of the Clothes; but noe sleepe Could I get, they burning turff and their Chimneys are sort of fflews or open tunnills, y^t y^e smoake does annoy the roomes. This is but 12 miles from another part of Scotland, the houses are but a Little better built, its true the inside of them are kept a Little better. Not far from this a Mile or two is a greate hill from which rises 3 rivers: the Teese w^ch is y^e border between Durham and York, y^e Ouse that runns to Yorke, and the River Tyne which runns to NewCastle and is the divider of Northumberland and Durham. This river Tyne runns 7 miles and then joyns w^th the other river Tyne that Comes out of Northumberland and so they run on to NewCastle. From Hartwhistle I went pretty much up hill and down and had the River Tyne much in view for 6 miles, then I cross’d over it on a Large stone bridge and so Rode by its bank or pretty much in sight of it on the other side to Hexholme 6 mile more. This is one of the best towns in Northumberland Except NewCastle, w^ch is one place the Sessions are kept for the shire; its built of Stone and looks very well, there are 2 gates to it, many streetes, some are pretty broad, all well pitch’d, w^th a spacious Market place w^th a town hall on the Market Crosse. Thence I went through y^e Lord Darentwaters parke just by his house w^ch is an old building not very Large, for 3 mile in all, to a Little village where I cross’d over the Tyne on a Long Bridge of stone w^th many arches. The river is in some places broader than in others, its true at this tyme of y^e yeare being Midsumer the springs are the Lowest and the Rivers shallow, and where there is any Rocks or stones Left quite bare of water.

Thence I went 4 mile along by the Tyne, the road was 175good hard gravelly way for the most part, but very steep up hills and down; on one of these I Rode a pretty while w^th a great precipice on the Right hand down to the river, it Looked hazardous, but the way was very broad. The River Looked very reffreshing and y^e Cattle Coming to its sides and into it where shallow to Coole themselves in the heate, for hitherto as I met w^th noe Raines, notwithstanding the great raines y^t fell the 2 dayes before I Left Woolsley, and y^e Little showers I had when I went to Hollywell I was not annoy’d w^th wet nor Extream heat, the Clouds being a shade to me by day and Gods good providence and protection all wayes. This after noon was the hottest day I met with but it was seasonable being in July. As I drew nearer and nearer to NewCastle I met with and saw abundance of Little Carriages w^th a yoke of oxen and a pair of horses together, w^ch is to Convey the Coales from y^e pitts to y^e Barges on the river. There is Little sort of Dung-potts. I suppose they hold not above 2 or three Chaudron. This is the sea Coale which is pretty much small Coale tho’ some is round Coales, yet none like the Cleft coales and this is what y^e smiths use and it Cakes in y^e ffire and makes a great heate, but it burns not up Light unless you put most round Coales w^ch will burn Light, but then its soon gone and that part of y^e Coale never Cakes, there fore y^e small sort is as good as any—if its black and shineing, that shows its goodness. This Country all about is full of this Coale, y^e sulpher of it taints y^e aire and it smells strongly to strangers,—upon a high hill 2 mile from NewCastle I could see all about the Country w^ch was full of Coale pitts.

New-Castle Lies in a bottom very Low, it appears from this hill a greate fflatt. I saw all by the river Tyne w^ch runns along to Tinmouth 5 or 6 miles off, w^ch Could see very plaine and y^e Scheld w^ch is the key or ffort at the mouth of y^e river w^ch disembogues itself into y^e sea; all this was in view on this high hill w^ch I descended—5 mile more, in all nine from that place.

NewCastle is a town and County of itself standing part in Northumberland part in y^e Bishoprick of Durham, the 176river Tyne being y^e division. Its a noble town tho’ in a bottom, it most resembles London of any place in England, its buildings Lofty and Large, of brick mostly or stone. The streetes are very broad and handsome and very well pitch’d, and many of them w^th very ffine Cunduits of water in Each allwayes running into a Large stone Cistern for Every bodyes use. There is one great streete where in y^e Market Crosse, there was one great Cunduit with two spouts w^ch falls into a Large ffountaine paved w^th stone which held at Least 2 or 3 hodsheads for the jnhabitants. There are 4 gates w^ch are all Double gates with a sort of Bridge between Each. The west gate w^ch I entred I came by a Large building of bricke within bricke walls, which is the hall for the assizes and sessions for the shire of Northumberland. This is NewCastle on y^e Tyne and is a town and County. There is a noble Building in the middle of the town all of stone for an Exchange on stone pillars severall rows. On the top is a building of a very Large hall for the judges to keep the assizes for the town; there is another roome for y^e Major and Councill and another for the jury out of the Large roome w^ch is the hall, and opens into a Balcony w^ch Looks out on y^e River and y^e Key. Its a Lofty good building of stone, very uniforme on all sides w^th stone pillars in the ffronts both to the streete and market place and to the waterside. There is a ffine Clock on the top just as y^e Royal Exchange has. The Key is a very ffine place and Lookes itself Like an Exchange being very broad and soe full of merchants walking to and againe, and it runs off a great Length w^th a great many steps down to y^e water for the Conveniency of Landing or boateing their goods, and is full of Cellars or ware houses. Ye harbour is full of shipps but none that is above 2 or 300 tun Can Come up quite to the Key: its a town of greate trade. There is one Large Church built of stone w^th a very high tower finely Carv’d full of spires and severall devises in the Carving—all stone. The Quire is neate as is the whole Church and Curious Carving in wood on each side the quire, and over the ffront is a great Piramidy of wood ffinely Carv’d full of spires. There was a Castle in this 177town but now there is noe remaines of it but some of y^e walls w^ch are built up in houses and soe only appears as a great hill or ascent, w^ch in some places is 30 or 40 steps advance to the streetes that are built on y^e higher ground where the Castle was. There was one place soe Like Snow Hill in London w^th a fine Conduite. Their shops are good and are of Distinct trades, not selling many things in one shop as is y^e Custom in most Country towns and Cittys; here is one market for Corne, another for Hay, besides all other things w^ch takes up two or three streetes. Satturday was their biggest Market day w^ch was the Day I was there, and by Reason of the extreame heate resolved to stay till the sun was Low ere I proceeded farther, so had the opportunity of seeing most of the Market w^ch is Like a ffaire for all sorts of provision, and good and very Cheape. I saw one buy a quarter of Lamb ffor 3^d and 2^d a piece: good Large poultry. Here is Leather, Woollen and Linnen and all sorts of stands for baubles. They have a very jndifferent sort of Cheese—Little things, Looks black on the outside. There is a very pleasant bowling-green, a Little walke out of the town w^th a Large gravel walke round it w^th two Rows of trees on Each side Makeing it very shady: there is a fine entertaineing house y^t makes up the ffourth side, before w^ch is a paved walke and Epyasses of bricke. There is a pretty Garden, by y^e side a shady walk, its a sort of spring garden where the Gentlemen and Ladyes walke in the Evening—there is a green house in the garden, its a pleasant walke to the town by y^e walls. There is one broad walke by the side of y^e town runns a good Length made w^th Coale ashes and so well trodden, and the raines makes it firm. There is a walke all round the walls of the town. There is a good ffree school and 5 Churches. I went to see the Barber Surgeons Hall w^ch was within a pretty garden walled in, full of flowers and greens In potts and in the Borders; its a good neate building of Brick. There I saw the roome w^th a round table in it railed round w^th seates or Benches for y^e Conveniency in their disecting and anatomiseing a body, and reading Lectures on all parts. There was two bodyes that had 178been anatomised, one the bones were fastned w^th wires the other had had the flesh boyled off and so some of y^e Ligeament remained and dryed w^th it, and so the parts were held together by its own Muscles and sinews that were dryed w^th it. Over this was another roome in w^ch was the skin of a man that was taken off after he was dead, and dressed, and so was stuff’d—the body and Limbs. It Look’d and felt Like a sort of parchment. In this roome I Could take a view of the whole town, it standing on high ground and a pretty Lofty building.

Just by is a very good Hospital for 14 widdows of tradesmen of the town, 2 good roomes a piece, a walke under a pyasse w^th pillars of brickwork, as is the whole building: there is a Large ffountaine or Cunduite of water for their use and an open Green before their house all walled in, its in y^e major and aldermans disposition, there is 2 or 300 pound a yeare to it, I thinke its 10 pound a piece. There is a very good fountaine belongs to it, and there is a fine bridge over the Tyne river w^th 9 arches all built on as London bridge is, which Enters you into Durham, and on this side of y^e Bridge are so many streets and buildings just Like Southwarke. Its a Little town but all is in the Liberty of y^e County town of New-Castle and soe Called, but its all in the Diocess of Durham. Through part of this you do ascend a greate height and steepness w^ch is full of Rocky stony stepps, and afterwards the hill Continues when out of y^e town till it has set you as high as on the former hill on the other side the town—w^ch I Entred out of Northumberland—and as that gave a Large prospect of the town and whole Country aboute on that side, soe this gives as pleasing a sight of it on this side and the whole river and shipps in the harbour. Thence I proceeded a most pleasant gravell Road on the Ridge of y^e hill and had the whole Country in view, w^ch seems much on a flatt to this place, tho’ there be a few Little steep up hills and descents, but the whole Country Looks Like a fruitfull woody place and seemes to Equal most Countys in England. 7 mile to Chester streete w^ch is a Little Market town, and I Rode neare Lumly Castle w^ch gives title and name to the 179Lord Lumly: the buildings Looke very Nobly, its in a 4 square tower running up to the top w^th three Round towers at the top between the windows—Lookes well—its a front the four wayes, its not finely ffurnish’d.

At this Little Market town I pass’d over the River Weire w^ch runns to Durham, w^ch is 7 mile farther over a pleasant Road and Country y^t resembles Black heath, you see the towns and Countrys Round full of Woods. One sees the Citty of Durham four mile off from a high hill, not but the Citty stands on a great rise of Ground and is a mile and halfe in Length. The river runs almost round the town and returns againe, that Casts the Citty into a tryangular; its not Navigeable nor possible to be made so because its so full of Rocks and vast stones, makes it difficult for any such attempt. Durham Citty stands on a great hill, the middle part much higher than the rest, the Cathedrall and Castle w^ch is y^e pallace w^th y^e Colledge and all the houses of the Doctors of the Churches is altogether built of stone and all Encompass’d w^th a wall full of battlements above the walke, and this is about the middle of y^e hill w^ch is a Round hill, and a steep descent into the rest of the town, where is the market place w^ch is a spacious place, and a very ffaire town hall on stone Pillars and a very Large Cunduite. From this all the streets are in a pretty greate descent to y^e river, which Lookes very pleasant by meanes of its turning and winding to and agen, and so there are 3 Large Stone Bridges w^th severall arches apiece. The abbey or y^e Cathedrall is very Large, the quire is good but nothing Extraordinary, some good painting in the Glass of the windows and wood Carving. There is over y^e alter a painting of a Large Catherine Wheele which Encompasses the whole window and fills it up. The Bishops seate has severall steps up, its Called y^e throne, with a Cloth of Gold Carpet before it. The seate was King Charles the first, of Crimson damaske. A good organ and a fine Clock in w^ch is the signes, w^th Chimes, and finely Carved w^th four pirramidy spires on Each Corner, a much Larger and higher one in the middle well Carv’d and painted. The ffont is of marble, the top was Carv’d wood very high, and 180terminates in a poynt and resembles the picture of y^e Building of Babel—its not painted. The Cloysters are good. A Chapple Called S^t Marys now used for to keep their spiritual Courts, and in the vestry I saw severall fine Embroyder’d Coapes—3 or 4, I saw one above the rest was so Richly Embroider’d w^th the whole Description of Christs nativity, Life, Death and ascention; this is put on the Deanes shoulders at the administration of the Lords supper, here is y^e only place that they use these things in England, and severall more Cerimonyes and Rites retained from the tymes of popery. There are many papists in the town, popishly affected, and daily encrease. There was great striveing in the Choice of the parliament men, w^ch I had the trouble of in most of my journeys, y^e Randan they made in the publick houses, jndeed I happen’d to get into a quiet good jnn a good accomodation, two Maiden sisters and brother kept it—at y^e Naggs head.

The Castle w^ch is the Bishops pallace stands on a Round hill w^ch has severall green walks round it, w^th high bancks to secure them one above another, and on the top are the towers. About the Middle of the hill is a broad Grass walk railed in and enters into a Dineing roome. There are very stately good roomes, parlours, drawing roomes, and a noble Hall, but the ffurniture was not very ffine the best being taken down in the absence of my Lord Crew, who is not a Barron of England but is a great prince as being Bishop of the whole principallity off Durham, and has a great Royalty and authority, is as an absolute Prince and has a great Command as well as revenue; his Spirituall is 5 or 6000^lb and his temporalls since his brothers Death makes it much more. He Comes sometymes hither but for the most part Lives at another Castle w^ch is a noble seate about 12 mile off, which is very well ffurnish’d and ffinish’d; he is the Governour as it were of the whole province. His pallace here makes a good appearance w^th the severall walks one below another with rows of trees, three or four descents and y^e wall at the bottom. Just by the Castle is a place for the assizes, 2 open barrs Lookes out into what is the space the College and Doctors houses are, and there is in the Middle a very ffine 181Large Cunduite, the water falling into the Cistern from 4 pipes, w^ch gives a pleaseing sound and prospect, it being arch’d with stone, and stone pillars, and Carv’d, and alsoe a high top arch ending in a ball; its the ffinest of this kind I have seen and so I must say of the whole Citty of Durham, its the noblest—Cleane and pleasant buildings, streetes Large, well pitch’d. The market Crosse is Large, a fflatt Roofe on severall Rows of Pillars of Stone and here is a good Cundit alsoe of stone. The walks are very pleasant by the river side. I went by its banck of one end of the town to the meeteing house w^ch stands just by the River, there was a Company of hearers at Least 300, w^ch on the Consideration of its being under the Dropings of y^e Cathedrall its very well. They have a very good minister there, but its New-Castle that has the greate meeteing place and many Descenters; they have two very Eminent men one of their Name was D^r Gilpin whose book I have read in, but he not being at home Could not have the advantage of hearing him.

In the Evening I walk’d out at Durham to another part of the town, by another turn of the river along by its Banck, and the river here would meete were it not for a Ridge of a hill runs between, it in w^ch are buildings and ascends up a mile in Length, w^ch is one of the Parishes. In walking by this river we Came to S^r Charles Musgroves House w^ch is now old and ruinous but has been good. The Gardens are flourishing still w^th good walks and much ffruite of w^ch I tasted; its a place that is used Like our Spring Gardens for the Company of the town to walk in the Evening, and its most pleasant by the river, w^ch by means of severall bays or wires which is of Rock, the waters has greate falls from thence, w^ch adds a murmuring sound acceptable to the people passing. They have good ffish in the river but its full of rocks; they talk much of makeing it Navigeable but I ffancy the many Rocks all along in it will render it a Difficult work. I went a mile to see the spaw waters and to see a salt spring in the Rock in the middle of y^e river. In halfe a mile I came to a well w^ch had a stone Bason in it and an arch of stone over it; the taste was Like y^e Sweete Spaw in Yorkshire and the Tunbridge waters.

182 About halfe a mile farther I Came to a well w^ch is Like the Sulpher Spaw, taste and Looke agreeing thereto, w^ch is from brimstone, but its not quite soe strong for it was a Longer tyme before the silver was Changed in it. Here I went a very bad and hazardous passage full of stones Like stepps, the water trilling Down them, and a very narrow passage by the Bushes and Bancks, but when I was got in there was noe returning, so on I went to the river w^ch was a Large step to goe down into, and all the river full of Shelves and Rocks.

The Spring is in the Cleft of the Rocks w^ch stands up in the river, and soe springs up, but when much raines falls it washes down soe fast upon it that weakens the taste. From this place I came back againe a mile. Durham has about 7 Churches w^th the Cathedrall, its a noble place and the aire so Cleer and healthy that persons Enjoy much health and pleasure. From thence to Darlington w^ch is 14 pretty Long miles but good way, but by the way I Lost some of my nightCloths and Little things in a Bundle that the Guide I hired Carry’d. This is a Little Market town, the Market day was on Munday w^ch was the day I passed through it: it was a great Market of all things, a great quantety of Cattle of all sorts but mostly Beeves—it seemes once in a fortnight its much fuller. Two miles from Darlington I Came to the Ground the Hell Kettles are they talk much of, its in Grounds just by the road where Cattle were ffeeding, there are 2 pooles or ponds of Water the one Larger than y^e other; y^e biggest seemed to me not to be the Deepest nor is it Esteem’d soe deep; there was some sedge or flaggs growing round that, but y^e fathermost w^ch was not soe bigg Looked a Cross that had noe flaggs or sedge on its bancks but yet it Look’d to me to Cast a green hew, Roleing waves of the water just in Coullour as the sea, and as the wind moved the water it very much resembled the sea, but the water when taken up in y^e hand Look’d White and y^e taste was not the Least brackish but fresh. My Conception of the Cause of y^e greenish Coullour was from the greate depth of water, for the reason they Call them Hell Kettles is that there is noe sounding a 183bottom, w^ch has been try’d by plumet and Line severall ffathoms down; the water is Cold and as any other water when took up, it seemes not to Decrease in a tyme of Drought nor to advance w^th great raines, it draines itself insensibly into y^e ground.

This Leads me the ffarthest way to Richmond it being but 8 mile the ready Road from Darlington to Richmond, but this way it was 10 miles and very tedious miles. Three miles off Darlington I passed over Crafton Bridge which Crosses y^e river Teese which Divides Durham ffrom Yorkshire, and soe Entred the North Rideing of Yorkshire in which is that they Call Richmondshire a shire of 30 miles. The way was good but Long, I went through Lanes and woods an Enclosed Country; I passed by a house of S^r Mark Melborn on a hill, a Brick building and severall towers on the top, good gardens and severall rows of trees up to the house, it standing on a hill, y^e trees Runns along on y^e Ridge of y^e same—Looks very finely.

Richmondshire has in it 5 waking takes as they Call them, answerable to that they Call hundreds in other Countys; Each waking takes has market towns in them and are under a Baliffe Each, which are nominated by the Earle of Holderness who is the Sole Lord of the whole—its 30 mile in Extent. Richmond town one cannot see till just upon it, being Encompass’d w^th great high hills: I descended a very steep hill to it from whence saw the whole town which itself stands on a hill tho’ not so high as these by it. Its buildings are all stone, y^e streetes are Like rocks themselves, there is a very Large space for the Markets w^ch are Divided for the ffish market, fflesh market, and Corn; there is a Large market Crosse, a square space walled in with severall steps up, and its flatt on the top and of a good height. There is by it a Large Church and the ruines of a Castle, the pieces of the walls on a hill. I walked round by the walls, the River running beneath a great descent to it, its full of stones and Rocks and soe very Easye to Make or keep up their wires or falls of water, w^ch in some places is naturall y^t y^e water falls over Rocks w^th great force w^ch is Convenient for Catching Salmon by speare when they Leap 184over those Bayes. All rivers are Low and Dryer in the Summer soe I saw them at the greatest disadvantage being in some places almost drye and the Rocks and stones appear bare, but by those high and Large stone bridges I pass’d w^ch Lay aCross the Rivers shewd the Great Depth and breadth they used to be y^e Winter tymes. There was two good houses in y^e town, one was M^r Darcys the Earle of Holderness’ brother, the other was M^r Yorkes, both stood then and were Chosen Parliament men. They had good gardens walled in, all stone, as in the whole town, though I must say it Looks Like a sad shatter’d town and fallen much to Decay and Like a Disregarded place. I passed on towards Burrowbridge and Came not farre from Hornby Castle the Earle of Holderness, and also Suddber hall 2 mile off Richmond M^r Darcys house; this Road was much on Lanes w^ch were narrow but Exceeding Long, some 3 or 4 mile before you Came to any open place and then I Came to a Common w^ch was as tedious to me, at Least 5 or 6 mile before I Came to an End of it, then I pass’d through a few Little villages and so I Came the 19 mile to Burrowbridge in Yorkshire. Here I was the most sensible of the Long Yorkshire Miles, this North Rideing of that County is much Longer Miles than the other parts which I had been in before. At Burrowbridge I pass’d the River Lid or Ouse on a Large stone Bridge: this River affords very good ffish, salmon and Codffish and plenty of Crawffish. Here I met w^th the Clutter of y^e Chooseing Parliament men. Thence I went for Knarsebrough 5 mile more; this dayes journey was a Long 24 miles, jndeed y^e wayes were very good and drye being y^e midst of summer. Here I Came to my old Landlady Mason where I Lay the yeare before to Drink the spaw, and from thence I went to Harragate over Knarsbrough fforest to Leeds 12 mile, and I went by Harwood Castle—the ruined walls some remaines. It was much in Lanes and uphills and Down hills, some Little part was open Common; on the Hill that Leads down to the town gives a pleaseing prospect of it. Leeds is a Large town, severall Large streetes, Cleane and well pitch’d and good houses all built of stone. Some have good Gardens and Steps up to their 185houses and walls before them. This is Esteemed the Wealthyest town of its bigness in the Country its manufacture is y^e woollen Cloth—the Yorkshire Cloth in w^ch they are all Employ’d and are Esteemed very Rich and very proud. They have provision soe plentiful y^t they may Live w^th very Little Expense and get much variety; here if one Calls for a tankard of Ale w^ch is allwayes a groate its the only dear thing all over Yorkshire, their ale is very strong, but for paying this Groat for yo^ur ale you may have a slice of meate Either hott or Cold according to the tyme of day you Call, or Else butter and Cheese Gratis into the bargaine; this was a Generall Custom in most parts of Yorkshire but now they have almost Changed it, and tho’ they still retaine the great price for the ale, yet Make strangers pay for their meate, and at some places at great rates, notwithstanding how Cheape they have all their provision. There is still this Custome on a Market day at Leeds, the sign of ye bush just by the Bridge, any body y^t will goe and Call for one tanchard of ale and a pinte of wine and pay for these only shall be set to a table to Eate w^th 2 or 3 dishes of good meate and a dish of sweetmeates after. Had I known this and y^e Day w^ch was their Market I would have Come then but I happened to Come a day after y^e market, however I did only pay for 3 tankards of ale and w^t I Eate, and my servants was gratis. This town is full of discenters, there are 2 Large meeting places, here is also a good schoole for young Gentlewomen; the streetes are very broad, the Market Large. Thence I went to Eland 12 long mile more pretty much steep, up hills and down the same. I crossed over a River at Leeds on a Large stone bridge; y^e Country is much on Enclosures, good ground.

I goe by quarreys of stone and pitts of Coales w^ch are both very good, soe that for fewell and building as well as good grounds for feeding Cattle and for Corne they are so well provided that together with their Industry they must needs be very Rich. All the hills about Eland is full of jnclosures and Coverts of wood y^t Looks very pleasant. This town gives title to y^e Marquis Hallifax son, as does Hallifax to y^e Marquis. This Lyes but 5 or 6 mile hence, its a stony 186town and the roads to it soe stony and difficult y^t I was Discouraged in going, the town now being almost ruined and Come to Decay, and y^e Engine that that town was famous for to behead their Criminalls at one stroake w^th a pully this was destroyed since their Charter or Liberty was Lost or taken from them, because most barbarously and rigourously acted Even w^th an absolute power w^ch they had of all y^e town; on those Informations I resolved not to goe to that ragged town tho’ there are many good people and a Large meeteing.

From Eland I went to y^e Blackstone Edge 8 mile, when I had gone 3 of the miles I Came to a great Precipice or vast descent of a hill as full of stones as if paved and Exceedingly steep; I take it to be much steeper than Blackstone Edge tho’ not soe long. Y^e End of this steep was a Little village all stony alsoe. These parts have some resemblance to Darbyshire only here are more woody places and jnclosures. Then I Came to Blackstone Edge noted all over England for a dismal high precipice and steep in the ascent and descent on Either End; its a very moorish ground all about and Even just at the top, tho’ so high, that you travel on a Causey w^ch is very troublesome as its a moist ground soe as is usual on these high hills; they stagnate the aire and hold mist and raines almost perpetually. As I ascended, y^e Morning was pretty faire, but a sort of mist met me and small raine just as I attained y^e top, w^ch made me feare a wet day and y^t the aire would have been so thick to have quite Lost me y^e sight of y^e Country, but when I attained y^e top where is a great heap raised up w^ch parts Yorkshire—and there I entred Lancashire—the mist began to Lessen, and as I descended on this side y^e ffog more and more went off and a Little raine fell tho’ at a Little distance in our view, the sun shone on y^e vale w^ch Indeed is of a Large Extent here, and y^e advantage of soe high a hill w^ch is at Least 2 mile up discovers the grounds beneath as a fruitfull valley full of jnclosures and Cut hedges and trees. That w^ch adds to the formidableness of Blackstone Edge is that on y^e one hand you have a vast precipice almost the whole way both as 187one ascends and descends, and in some places y^e precipice is on Either hand. This hill took me up Much tyme to gaine the top and alsoe to descend it and put me in mind of the Description of y^e Alpes in Italy, where the Clouds drive all about and as it were below them, w^ch descends Lower into Mists, then into raines and soe tho’ on the top it hold snow and haile falling on the passengers, w^ch at Length the Lower they go Comes into raine and so into sun-shine—at the foote of those valleys, fruitfull, y^e sunshine and singing of birds. This was y^e accō My father gave of those Alps when he passed them and I Could not but think this Carryed some resemblance tho’ in Little, yet a proportion to that.

From y^e foot of this Blackstone I went to Rochdale 4 mile, a pretty neate town built all of stone; here I went to an acquaintances house M^r Taylor and was Civilly Entertained. Here is a good Large Meeteing place well filled; these parts Religion does better flourish than in places where they have better advantages. Here I observ’d the Grounds were all Enclosed with Quicksetts Cut smoothe and as Even on fine Green Bancks, and as well kept as for a Garden, and so most of my way to Manchester I Rode between such hedges, its a thing remarked by most their great Curiosity in this kind.

Manchester Lookes exceedingly well at the Entrance,—very substantiall buildings, the houses are not very Lofty but mostly of Brick and stone, the old houses are timber work; there is a very Large Church all stone and stands high soe that walking round the Churchyard you see the whole town. There is good Carving in wood in the Quire of y^e Church and severall Little Chappells where in are some Little Monuments; there is one that was y^e founder of y^e Colledge and Library where hangs his pictures, for just by the Church is the Colledge w^ch is a pretty neate building w^th a Large space for y^e boys to play in, and a good Garden walled in; there are 60 blew Coate boys in it, I saw their appartments and was in the Cellars and Dranke of their beer w^ch was very good; I alsoe saw y^e Kitchen and saw their bread Cutting for their supper and their piggins 188for their beer. There is a Cloyster round a Court, in it is a Large roome for y^e judges to Eate in, and also for y^e roomes for heareing and dispatching their buissness, there is a Large Library—2 Long walls full of books on Each side,—there is alsoe y^e globes at y^e End and Maps, there is alsoe a Long whispering trumpet, and there I saw y^e skinn of y^e Rattle Snake 6 ffoote Long w^th many other Curiositys, their anatomy of a man wired together, a jaw of a shark; there was a very ffine Clock and weather glass. Out of y^e Library there are Leads on w^ch one has the sight of y^e town w^ch is Large, as alsoe y^e other town that Lyes below it Called Salfor and is Divided from this by the river Ouall over w^ch is a stone bridge w^th many arches. Salfor has only a Little Chappell of Ease and is belonging to y^e Parish of Manchester.

There is another river Called the Shark w^ch runs into y^e Uval. The market place is Large, it takes up two streetes Length when the Market is kept for their Linnen Cloth, Cottentickings w^th is the manufacture of y^e town. Here is a very fine Schoole for young Gentlewomen as good as any in London, and musick and danceing and things are very plenty here—this is a thriveing place. Hence I went a very pleasant roade Much on y^e downs mostly Campion ground, some few Enclosures, I went by Dunum the Earle of Warringtons house w^ch stands in a very fine parcke, it stands Low but appeared very well to sight, its old fashioned building w^ch appeares more in y^e Inside, and the furniture old, but good gardens walled in. I also passed by severall Gentlemens seates, one was M^r Cholmonlys, another M^r Listers, surrounded w^th good Walks and shady trees in rows, and severall Large pooles of water some Containeing severall acres. I passed over two or three stone bridges Cross Little rivers, so to Norwitch w^ch is 14 mile. I Entred Cheshire 3 mile before I Came to y^e town, its not very Large, its full of Salt works the brine pitts being all here about, and so they make all things Convenient to follow y^e makeing the salt so y^t y^e town is full of smoak from y^e salterns on all sides. They have within these few yeares found in their brine 189pitts a hard Rocky salt that Lookes Cleer Like Suger Candy and its taste shews it to be salt, they Call this Rock salt, it will make very good brine w^th fresh water to use quickly. This they Carry to the water side into Wales and by those Rivers that are flow’d w^th y^e tyde, and soe they boile these pieces of Rock in some of the salt water when y^e tyde’s in, w^ch produces as strong and good salt as the others. Thence I went to Sandy head 3 mile farther. There was 12 salterns together at Norwitch—all y^e witches are places they make salt in—Nantwitch and Droctwitch they make salt, for at Each place they have the salt hills where the brine pits springs: this is not farre from y^e place whence they digg the mill stones.

From Sandy Lane head where I baited, to Whit Church is 16 long miles over a Long heath for 4 or 5 mile, then to Bestonwood and Came by Beston Castle on a very high hill, y^e walls remaineing round it, w^ch I Left a Little on my Right hand just at y^e foote of y^e hill, and so I Crossed y^e great Road w^ch Comes from Nantwitch to Chester being then just y^e midd way to Either, being 7 mile to Each. There I think I may say was y^e only tyme I had reason to suspect I was Engaged w^th some highway men. 2 fellows all on a suddain from y^e wood fell into y^e Road, they Look’d truss’d up w^th great Coates and as it were bundles about them w^ch I believe was pistolls, but they dogg’d me one before y^e other behind and would often Look back to Each other, and frequently justle my horse out of y^e way to get between one of my servants horses and mine, and when they first Came up to us did disown their knowledge of y^e way and would often stay a little behind and talke together, then Come up againe, but the providence of God so order’d it as there was men at work in y^e fields haymakeing, and it being market day at WhitChurch, as I drew neer to y^t in 3 or 4 mile was Continually met w^th some of y^e market people, so they at Last Called Each other off and soe Left us and turned back; but as they Rode w^th us 3 or 4 miles at Last they described the places we should Come by, and a high pillar finely painted in y^e Road about 3 mile off of Whitchurch (w^ch accordingly we saw as we pass’d on) w^ch shew’d 190them noe strangers to y^e Road as they at first pretended. I passed over a Little brooke a mile before I Came to WhitChurch w^ch Entred me into Shropshire. This is a Large market town, here are two very fine gardens, one belongs to an apothecary, full of all fruites and greens; y^e other was at y^e Crown jnn where I staid, it was exceeding neate w^th oring and Lemmon trees, Mirtle, striped and gilded hollytrees, box and ffilleroy finely Cut, and ffirrs and merumsuratum w^ch makes the fine snuff, and fine flowers all things almost in a little tract of Garden Ground. From thence its 14 mile to Shrewsbury and pretty Level way. Ye miles were long and y^e wind blew very Cold, I went on a Causey 2 or 3 miles to y^e town, so y^t in y^e winter the way is bad and deep but on the Causey.

Y^e town stands Low, y^e spires of 2 of y^e Churches stand high and appear Eminent above y^e town, there is y^e remaines of a Castle, y^e walls and battlements and some towers w^ch I walked round, from whence had y^e whole view of y^e town w^ch is walled round w^th battlements and walks round, some of which I went on. Its here the fine river Severn Encompasses y^e greatest part of y^e town and twines and twists its self about, its not very broad here but its very deep and is Esteemed y^e finest river in England to Carry such a depth of water for 80 or more miles together Ere it runns into y^e sea w^ch is at Bristol. This Comes out of Wales, Ross and Monmouthshire, there it turns about and Comes to y^e town. On Each side there are 3 bridges over it, in y^e town one of them y^t I walked over had some few houses built on it, as London bridge, at one End of it. Its pleasant to walk by y^e river; there is just by it the Councill house an old building. Here are three free schooles together, built of free stone, 3 Large roomes to teach the Children, w^th severall masters. Y^e first has 150£ a year y^e second 100 y^e third 50^£ a year and teach Children from reading English till fit for y^e University, and its free for Children not only of y^e town but for all over England if they Exceed not y^e numbers. Here is a very fine Market Cross of stone Carv’d, in another place there is an Exchequer or hall for y^e towns affaires, 191there is alsoe a hall for y^e Welsh manufacture. There is a water house w^ch supplys y^e town through pipes w^th water, but its drawn up w^th horses and it seemes not to be a good and Easye way, so they jntend to make it with a water Engine in the town. There are many good houses but mostly old buildings, timber; there is some remaines of a great abbey and just by it y^e great Church, but nothing fine or worth notice save y^e abbey Gardens w^th gravell walks set full of all sorts of greens—orange and Lemmon trees: I had a paper of their flowers—were very fine,—there was alsoe ffirrs, myrtles and hollys of all sorts and a green house full of all sorts of Curiosityes of flowers and greens—there was y^e aloes plant. Out of this went another Garden much Larger w^th severall fine grass walks kept Exactly Cut and roled for Company to walke in. Every Wednesday most of y^e town y^e Ladyes and Gentlemen walk there as in S^t James’ parke, and there are abundance of people of Quality Lives in Shrewsbury, more than in any town Except Nottingham; its true there are noe fine houses but there are many Large old houses that are Convenient and stately, and its a pleasant town to Live in and great plenty w^ch makes it Cheap Living. This is very near bordering on Wales and was reckon’d formerly one of y^e Welsh County’s as was Herifordshire. Here is a very good schoole for young Gentlewomen for Learning work and behaviour and musick.

From Shrewsbury I went through the great ffaire w^ch was just kept that day there, full of all sorts of things and all the roade for 10 mile at Least I met y^e people and Commoditys going to the ffaire. 2 mile thence I passed over the River Cern on a Large stone bridge, this is deep and joyns the Severn and soe I Rode by the great hill Called the Reeke noted for the highest piece of ground in England, but it must be by those that only Live in the heart of y^e Kingdom and about London, for there are much higher hills in the north and West and alsoe not 40 mile distant from it; Manborn hills seems vastly higher. This hill stands just by itself a round hill and does raise its head much above y^e hills neare it, and on the one side does Looke a great steepe down, but still my thoughts of the 192ffells in Cumberland and Westmoreland are soe farr beyond it in height that this would not be mentioned there; it is seen 20 mile off and soe may many other hills, but when I Rode just under it I was full Convinc’d its height was not in Compẽtion w^th those in other parts that I have seen.

There are great hills all about w^ch I pass’d over full of Coale pitts. Here I Came into y^e Whatling Streete w^ch is one of y^e great roads of England w^ch divided y^e Land into so many Kingdoms under y^e Saxons. The roads are pretty good but y^e miles are Long, from Shrewsbury to y^e Reeke is 9 mile, from thence to S^r Thomas Patsells house 10 mile more; here I went to see his Gardens w^ch are talk’d off as y^e finest and best kept, y^e house is old and Low, if y^e Gentleman had Lived he Did design a new house, its now his sons who is an Infant. Before you Come to y^e house for a quarter of a mile you Ride between fine Cut hedges, and y^e nearer y^e approach the finer still, they are very high and Cut Smoothe and Even just Like y^e hedges at Astrop waters, and of Each side beyond are woods, some regular Rows, some in its native Rudeness, w^th ponds beyond in grounds beneath it. Y^e End of this walke you Enter a Large gate of open Iron grates, w^th as many more jron grates on Each side as the Breadth of y^e gate, opposite to this is just another that opens into those grounds I first mention’d. There is a Large pitched Court w^th some open jron gates and grates at Each End, y^t gives the visto quite a Cross through to other Rows of trees w^ch runs up all about y^e severall avenues.

In this Court stands two Dyals between w^ch is an open gate and pallasadoes, the whole breadth of y^e front of this jron work w^ch Leads to the jnner Court, and on y^e other side just in front, is another Large gate Carv’d Iron w^th pillars brick and stone and flower potts; and on Each side to take the whole Breadth of y^e house to w^ch it faces and soe give the sight of the garden is open pallisadoes, and a Little beyond are two more such open Pallisadoes that are Corner wayes, and discovers the Groves whose walks Looks Every way, so y^t to stand in this outward Court you May see the house, and Court full of statues in Grass plotts, w^th 193a broad pav’d walke to the house. In y^e middle on y^e one side are flower gardens and y^e parke, y^e other side other grounds w^th rows of trees and by it very handsome stables and Coach houses, and then in the ffront this Large opening to this garden where is a ffountaine all wayes playing very high, the water, the Gravel walks, and fine flowers and greens of all sorts in potts and on the borders. This gate I mention’d had brick pillars w^th stone heads on w^ch stood a turky Cock on each Cut in stone and painted proper. Y^e grove I mention’d is the finest I Ever saw, there are six walks thro’ it and just in the Middle you Look twelve wayes w^ch Discovers as Many severall prospects, Either to y^e house or Entrance or fountaines or Gardens or ffields. The Grove itself is peculiar being Composed of all sorts of greens that hold their verdure and beauty all the yeare, and flourishes most in y^e winter season when all other Garden beautys fades, of ffirrs, both silver, Scots, Noroway, Cyprus, Yew, Bays &c; the severall squares being set full of these Like a Maze; they are Compassed round Each square w^th a hedge of Lawrell about a y^d high Cut Exactly smooth and Even, there are also box trees in the middle. There are two other Large Gardens w^th Gravell walkes, and grass plotts full of stone statues, the stone is taken out of y^e quarry’s about this Country, w^ch is not a very firme stone and so the Weather Cracks them.

In one of these Gardens just the side of y^e house into w^ch it opens w^th glass doors and just over against it is a Large Avery of birds w^th branches of trees stuck into the Ground; by it is a Little Summer house neately painted, beyond this is another Garden w^th a broad Gravel walke quite round. In the middle is a Long as well as Large ffountaine or pond w^ch is Called a sheete of water, at y^e four Corners are seates shelter’d behind and on y^e top and sides w^th boards painted, on w^ch you sit secured from the weather, and Looks on the water w^ch has 348 Lead pipes at y^e brims of it w^ch takes in the sides and End and w^th the turning a sluce they streame at once into the fountaine w^ch Looks well and makes a pleaseing sound. If those pipes were but turned in a bow it would Cast the water in an 194arch and so would augment the Beauty of y^e prospect. There are 2 Large Images stands in the Midst y^t Cast out water and 4 sea horses all Casting out water. In the other Gardens there were Little figures w^ch bedewed the borders w^th their showers.

This Large pond I spoke of before is very deep and good ffish Encreasing in it. There is another great pond in a ground beyond, w^ch Lyes to view thro’ those green pallasadoes and is stored w^th much good ffish. Thence I went to Aubery 2 miles, a Little Market town, thence to Pauckeridge and passed through some parcks w^ch belongs to some Gentlemens seate. I went by one M^r Peirpoynts, and S^r Walter Rochlys house, w^ch stands on a hill in a thicket of trees, and soe Came againe to the Whatling-street way and soe over Kankewood to Woolsly—in all 14 mile ffarther. From Woolsly to Haywood parke 2 mile, and home againe 2 mile, from Woolsley to Kanktown 6 mile, thence to Woolverhampton 6 mile. I went more in sight of S^r Walter Rochly w^ch stands very finely on a hill and woods by it—Lookes very stately. These miles are very Long thro’ Lanes. I passed by a fine house Prestwitch M^r Philip Ffolies, a pretty seate in a parke, a mile beyond there is another house of y^e same Gentlemans. Here we had y^e Inconveniency of meeteing the Sherriffs of Staffordshire Just going to provide for y^e Reception of y^e Judges and officers of y^e Assizes, whose Coaches and Retinue Meeteing our Company w^ch was encreased w^th Cosen Ffiennes’ Coach and horsemen, w^ch made us difficult to pass Each other in the hollow wayes and Lanes.

Thence to the Seven Starres where we baited, thence 2 miles ffarther we Entred out of Staffordshire into Worcestershire to Broad water, a place where are severall ffullers and Dyers mills.

Thence on y^e Right hand are fforging mills for jron works w^ch belong to M^r Tho: Ffolie, there is a Rocky hill in w^ch is a Roome Cut out in the Rocks.

On y^e Left hand you goe 7 mile to Ambusly, a very sad heavy way all sand, you goe just at Kederminster town End w^ch is a Large town much Employ’d about y^e worstead 195trade, spinning and weaving. We also Rode by S^r John Packingtons house on the Left hand on the hill just by Droitwitch where are the 3 salt springs, divided by a ffresh spring that runs by it; of this salt water they boyle much salt that turns to good amount. All y^e way from the Seven Starrs where we baited to Ambusly y^e Road was full of y^e Electers of y^e Parliament men Coming from the Choice of y^e Knights of the Shire, w^ch spake as they were affected, some for one some for another, and some were Larger in their judgments than others, telling their reason much according to the good Liquors operation, and of these people all the publick houses were filled that it was a hard Matter to get Lodging or Entertainm^t.

We entered Worcester town next day just as y^e Cerimony of the Election was performing, and soe they Declared it in favour of M^r Welsh and S^r John Packington. 4 mile more to this town—from broad water in all is 11 mile. Worcester town w^ch is washed by the river Severn is a Large Citty—12 Churches, the streetes most of them broad, the buildings some of them are very good and Lofty, its Encompass’d w^th a wall w^ch has 4 gates that are very strong. The Market place is Large, there is a Guildhall besides the Market house w^ch stands on pillars of stone. The Cathedrall stands in a Large yard, pitch’d, its a Lofty Magnificent building, the Quire has good Wood Carv’d and a pretty organ, there is one tombstone stands in the Middle of y^e quire by the railes on which Lyes the Effigies of King John, the Left side of alter is prince Arthurs tomb of plaine Marble in a ffine Chappell w^ch is made all of stone ffinely Carv’d, both the Inside and the outside is very Curiously Carv’d in all sorts of works and Arms, beasts and flowers, under it Lyes the statues of severall Bishops, beyond this are two tombstones w^th y^e ffigure of y^e body in their proper dress, of 2 Saxon Bishops on y^e pavement.

The painting of y^e Windows are good and they are pretty Large and Lofty tho’ Nothing Comparable to the Cathedrall at york. The tower is high and about the Middle of it you may walke round y^e Inside and Look down into the body of y^e Church just as it is in york. 196Just against y^e pulpit in y^e body of the Church is a Little organ to set the Psalme. Y^e ffont is all of white marble and a Carv’d Cover of wood.

From Worcester we pass’d a Large stone bridge over the Severn on w^ch were many Barges that were tow’d up by strength of men 6 or 8 at a tyme.

The water just by the town Encompasses a Little piece of Ground full of Willows and so makes it an jsland, part of w^ch turns Mills. Thence I went 4 mile where I Cross y^e River Thames on a stone Bridge, this runs to Whitborne and is a very Rapid Streame Especially after raines, w^ch Just before we begun our Journey had fallen and made the roads, w^ch are all Lanes full of stones and up hills and down, so steep that w^th y^e raines y^e waters stood or Else ran down y^e hills, w^ch made it Exceeding bad for travelling. When we had gone 7 mile, at a Little Parish, you Enter out of Worcester into Herriffordshire and soe 7 mile ffarther to Stretton Grandsorm and new house, my Cos’n Fiennes’s. This is the worst way I ever went in Worcester or Herriffordshire, its allwayes a deep sand and soe in the winter and w^th muck is bad way, but this being in August it was strange and being so stony made it more Difficult to travell. From thence I went to Stoake 4 miles, where I saw M^r Folies new house w^ch was building and will be very ffine when Compleated. There is to be 3 flat ffronts to y^e Gardens sides; the Right Wing of y^e house is the severall appartments for the ffamily, 2 drawing roomes and bed Chambers and Closets opening both on a terrass of free stone pavements, Each End and the middle there is stone stepps goes down on Each side, w^th half paces to the garden w^ch is by more stepps descending one below another. The other wing is to y^e other Garden and are to be Roomes of State w^ch Lookes towards Herrifford town. this is to be Coupled together w^th a Large Hall w^ch Composes the ffront and is of stone work, the rest is brick only Coyn’d w^th stone and y^e windows stone, and is in forme of a halfe moone Each side w^th arches to the several offices and stables. To this ffront w^ch is to be the Entrance Large opening Iron spike gates w^ch Lookes into their Grounds and Meddowes below it, of 197a Great Length w^th Rows of trees to y^e river. The Roofe is Cover’d w^th slatt w^ch shines and very much represents Lead, its adorn’d round y^e Edges w^th stone ffigures and flower potts. There is a noble parck and woods behind—it will be very ffine when ffinished, now I saw it only in the outside shell and platt form. thence I returned to Newhouse 4 mile. Thence I went to Canaan Ffroom a mile and one mile back w^ch was 2 mile more, then to Stretton four tymes and back w^ch was 8 mile, then from Newhouse to Aldbery 5 miles, thence to Marlow 3 mile and there Entred Gloucestershire. They are pretty long miles and in the winter deep way, though now it was pretty good travelling its 8 mile beyond to Glocestertown tho’ in most places near London this would be reckon’d 20 miles; you may see the town 4 miles off. Glocester town Lyes all along on the bancks of y^e Severn and soe Look’d Like a very huge place, being stretch’d out in Length, its a Low Moist place therefore one must travel on Causeys which are here in good repaire. I pass’d over a Bridge where two armes of the river meetes where y^e tyde is very high and rowles in the sand in many places and Causes those Whirles or Hurricanes that will Come on storms w^th great jmpetuosity.

Thence I proceeded over another Bridge into y^e town whose streetes are very well pitch’d, Large and Cleane. There is a faire Market place and Hall for y^e assizes w^ch happened just as we Came there, soe had y^e worst Entertainem^t and noe accomodation but in a private house. Things ought not to be Deare here, but Strangers are allwayes imposed on and at such a publick tyme alsoe they make their advantages. Here is a very Large good Key on the river, they are supply’d w^th Coales by y^e shipps and Barges w^ch makes it plentifull; they Carry it on sledges thro’ y^e town—its the great Warwickshire Coale I saw unloading. Here they follow knitting stockings, gloves wauscoates and peticoates and sleeves all of Cotten, and others spinn the Cottens. The Cathedrall or minster is Large, Lofty and very neate, the Quire pretty. At y^e Entrance there is a seate over head for y^e Bishop to sit in to hear the sermon preached in y^e body of y^e Church, and therefore the organ 198is in the Quire on one side w^ch used to be at y^e Entrance. There was a tomb stone in y^e middle w^th a statue of Duke Roberts, second son to William the Conquerours son, w^th his Legs across as is the manner of all those that went to the holy warre; this is painted and resembles marble tho’ it is but wood and soe Light as by one ffinger you may move it up, there is an jron Grate over it. At y^e alter the painting is soe ffine that y^e tapistry and pillars and ffigure of Moses and Aaron soe much to the Life you would at Least think it Carv’d. There are 12 Chappells all stone finely Carv’d on y^e walls and rooffs, the windows are pretty Large and high w^th very good painting, there is a Large window just over y^e Alter but between it and y^e alter is a hollow walled in on each side w^ch is a Whispering place; speake never so Low just in the Wall at one End the person at y^e other End shall heare it plaine tho’ those w^ch stand by you shall not heare you speake—its y^e Wall Carrys y^e voyce. This seems not quite soe wonderfull as I have heard, for y^e Large roome in Mountague house soe remarkable for fine painting I have been in it, and when y^e Doores are shutt its so well suited in y^e Walls you Cannot tell where to find the Doore if a stranger, and its a Large roome Every way. I saw a Lady stand at one Corner and turn herself to the wall and whisper’d, y^e voice Came very Cleer and plaine to y^e Company that stood at y^e Crosse Corner y^e roome soe y^t it Could not be Carry’d by y^e side wall, it must be the arch overhead w^ch was a great height.—But to return to y^e Church, the tower was 203 stepps, the Large bell I stood upright in but it was not so bigg as y^e great Tom of Lincoln, this bell at Glocester is raised by ten and rung by 6 men. On the tower Leads you have a prospect of y^e whole town, gardens and buildings and grounds beyond and y^e river Severn in its twistings and windings. Here are y^e fine Lamprys taken in great quantetys in their season, of w^ch they make pyes and potts and Convey them to London or Else where, such a present being fitt for a king; this and y^e Charr fish are Equally rare and valuable. Here are very good Cloysters finely adorn’d with ffretwork, here is the Colledge and Library but not stored w^th many books. 199I think this was all the remarkable in Glocester. From thence I went in Company all this while w^th my Cos’n Ffilmer and family. We Came to Nymphsffield after having ascended a very steep narrow and stony hill, 10 mile to Nympsfield all bad way, but the 20 mile afterwards made up for its badness, for these were Exceeding good wayes. 2 mile to Cold harbour thence 15 Landsdon—Long, but bowling green way. Here I passed by Babington, the Duke of Beaufforts house stands in a Parke on an advanc’d Ground w^th rows of trees on all sides w^ch runns a good Length, and you may stand on y^e Leads and Look 12 wayes down to y^e parishes and Grounds beyond all thro Glides or visto of trees. The Gardens are very fine and water works. On Landsdon hill Summersetshire begins w^ch is a very pleasant hill for to Ride on for aire and prospect; I went 3 mile over it w^ch Leads to y^e Bath down a vast steep descent of a stony narrow way as is all y^e wayes down into y^e town. The Bath is a pretty place full of good houses all for y^e accomodation of the Company that resort thither to Drink or Bathe in the summer. The streetes are faire and well pitch’d, they Carry most things on sledges, and y^e Company all y^e morning y^e Chaires of Bayes to Carry them to the Bath—soe they have the Chaire or Sedan to Carry them in visits. There is a very fine hall w^ch is set on stone pillars w^ch they use for y^e balls and dancing. This is the only new thing since I was at y^e Bath before, Except the fine adornements on y^e Cross in the Cross bath, fine Carving of stone w^th the English arms and Saints and Cupids, according to the phaneze and Religion of King James the Seconds Queen Mary of Modina, as part of her thanks and acknowledgments to y^e saints or Virgin Mary for the Welsh Prince she Imposed on us. From the Bath I went westward to Bristol over Landsdown 10 mile, and passed thro’ Kingswood and was met w^th a great many horses passing and returning Loaden w^th Coales Dug just thereabout; they give 12 pence a horse Load w^ch Carrys two Bushells, it makes very good ffires, this is y^e Cakeing Coale. Bristol Lyes Low in a bottom the Greatest part of the town, tho’ one End of it you have a pretty rise of ground.

200 There are 19 Parish Churches beside the Cathedrall, w^ch has nothing fine or Curious in it. The Buildings of y^e town are pretty high, most of timber work, the streetes are narrow and something Darkish because the roomes on y^e upper storys are more jutting out, soe Contracts y^e streete and the Light. The Suburbs are better buildings and more spacious streetes. There are at one place as you Enter the town 2 almshouses, 6 men and 6 women a piece at Each. There is alsoe at another part of y^e town a Noble almshouse more Like a Gentlemans house, y^t is all of stone work, a handsome Court w^th gates and Pallisadoes before four grass plotts divided by paved walks and a walk round y^e same. The one side is for y^e women the other for y^e men, the middle building is 2 Kitchins for Either and a middle roome in Common for washing and brewing, over all is a Chappell. They have Gardens behind it w^th all things Convenient. They have their Coales and 3 shillings p^r weeke allowed to Each to maintain them, this is for decayed tradesmen and wives that have Lived well; its set up and allowed to by M^r Coleson a merch^t in London. This town is a very great tradeing Citty as most In England, and is Esteemed the Largest next London. The river Aven y^t is flowed up by the sea into y^e Severn and soe up the Aven to the town, Beares shipps and Barges up to the Key, where I saw y^e harbour was full of shipps carrying Coales and all sorts of Commodityes to other parts. The bridge is built over w^th houses just as London bridge is, but its not so bigg or Long—there are 4 arches here. They have Little boates w^ch are Call’d Wherryes such as we use on the Thames, soe they use them here to Convey persons from place to place, and in many places there are signes to many houses that are not Publick houses just as it is in London, the streetes are well pitch’d, and preserved by their useing sleds to Carry all things about. There is a very faire market place and an Exchange set on stone Pillars. In another place there is a very high and magnificent Cross built all of y^e stone or sort of Marble of y^e Country, its in the manner of Coventry Cross a Piramedy fform running up of a great height, w^th severall divisions in nitches where is King Johns 201Effigy and severall other, adorned w^th armes and figures of Beasts and birds and flowers. Great part of it Gilt and painted and soe terminates in a spire on y^e top, the Lower part is white Like Marble. Just by the water side is a Long rope yard w^ch is Encompass’d w^th trees on Either side w^ch are Lofty and shady, therefore its made Choice of for y^e Company of y^e town to take y^e Diversion of walking in the Evening. This Compasses round a Large space of ground w^ch is Called y^e marsh—a green ground. There was noe remaines of the Castle. There are 12 gates to y^e Citty, there is a very Large Conduit by y^e Key finely Carv’d, all stone, this Conveys the water about y^e town but all y^e water has a Brackish taste. There is one Church w^ch is an Entire worke all of stone, noe timbers but ye Rafters and beames belonging to y^e Roofe and y^e seates they sit in. Y^e Leads are very high and Large and very neate kept, the tower 15 stepps upon w^ch the whole Citty is discover’d, w^ch by reason of the good gardens and grounds within its walls is a very Large tract of ground in y^e whole. There you see the Colledge green in w^ch stands the Cathedrall and y^e Doctors houses, w^ch are not very fine, built of stone. There are some few monuments in this Church w^th good Carvings of stone round y^e tombs and some Effigies, there are 8 bells in this Church, there is 2 men goes to y^e ringing y^e biggest bell. From thence I went 2 miles to y^e hott spring of water w^ch Lookes Exceeding Cleer and is as warm as new milk and much of that sweetness. This is just by S^t Vincents Rocks y^t are Great Clifts w^ch seeme as bounds to y^e river Aven, this Channell was hewn out of those Rocks. They Digg y^e Bristol Diamonds w^ch Look very Bright and sparkling and in their native Rudeness have a great Lustre and are pointed and Like y^e Diamond Cutting; I had a piece just as it Came out of y^e Rock w^th y^e Rock on y^e back side and it appeared to me as a Cluster of Diamonds polish’d and jrregularly Cut. Some of these are hard and will Endure the Cutting and pollishing by art and soe they make rings and Earings of them, the harder the stone is more valuable, w^ch differences y^e true Diamond that will bear the fire or y^e greatest force, 202and Cannot be divided nor Cut but by some of itself, diamond dust being y^e only way they Can Cut diamonds that itself is Capable of Impressing Carracters on Glass. Here I fferry’d over the Avon that Comes up to y^e town w^th a Great tyde in two parts; about 6 mile off it joyns y^e Severn w^ch now begins to swell into a vast river of 7 mile over before it Enters the sea. Then I went to Aston a mile from y^e water side thro’ a fine park, an old Large house, and thence I passed over Large downs and saw 2 other good houses built of stone, w^th towers on y^e top, and severall Rows of trees Leading to them which made them appear very fine. Soe to Oakey Hole w^ch from y^e water side where I ferry’d is Esteemed but 15 long mile, its y^e same Distance from Bristole but I would not goe back to y^e town, but twere better I had, for I made it at Least 17 mile that way. Oakey Hole is a Large Cavity under ground Like Poole Hole in Darbyshire, only this seemes to be a great hill above it. Its full of great Rocks and stones Lying in it just as if they were hewen out of a quarry and Laid down all in y^e ground, y^e wall and Roofe is all a Rocky stone, there is a Lofty space they Call the hall and another y^e parlour, and another the Kitchen, the Entrance of Each one out of another is w^th greate stooping under Rocks y^t hang down almost to touch y^e ground, beyond this is a Cistern allwayes full of water, it Looks Cleer to the bottom w^ch is all full of stones as is the sides, just Like Candy or Like the Branches they put in the boyling of Copperace for y^e Copperice to Crust about it, in the same manner so y^t y^e water Congeales here into stone and does as it were bud or grow out one stone out of another. Where Ever this water drops it does not weare y^e Rock in hollow as some other such subterranian Caves does but it hardens and does Encrease y^e stone and that in a Roundness as if it Candy’d as it fell, w^ch I am of opinion it does; so it makes y^e Rocks grow and meete Each other in some places.