Part 1 — CHAPTER II. THE WAVES OF THE OCEAN.
Reading edition
CHAPTER II. THE WAVES OF THE OCEAN.
Waves and the Mode of their Formation.—Height and Velocity of Storm-Waves, on the High Seas, according to the Calculations of Scoresby, Arago, Sir James Ross, and Wilkes.—Their Height and Power on Coasts.—Their Destructive Effects along the British Shore.—Dunwich.—Reculver.—Shakspeare's Cliff. 24