Volume 1 — FIRST JOURNEY.

We sailed from Malta on the 19th of May, 1815, and arrived at Alexandria on the 9th of June following; Mrs. Belzoni, myself, and James Curtain, a lad, whom I brought with me from Ireland, formed our party. The principal cause of my going to Egypt was the project of constructing hydraulic machines, to irrigate the fields, by a system much easier and more economical than what is in use in that country. On entering the harbour of Alexandria, the pilot informed us, that the plague was in the town. To an European who had never been in that country, this was alarming intelligence. As I wished to have some information concerning 2the state of the disease, we did not land till the next day, when two European gentlemen came alongside in a boat, and informed us, that it was rapidly diminishing. We accordingly landed, but with much caution, as in our way to the French Occale, where we were to perform quarantine, we had to pass through the town. Fortunately, St. John’s day, which is the 24th of June, was not far off; and on that day the plague is supposed to cease. Some superstitious persons attribute this to the power of the saint himself; but it is too well known, that extreme heat checks the plague in the same manner as the cold season; and I observed myself, that when the heat of summer was not so great as usual, the plague lasted longer; while, on the other hand, when the cold season lasted longer, the plague came later.

The necessity of putting ourselves into a voluntary prison; the caution we were obliged to take, not to touch any person, or suffer any one to touch us; the strict order to be observed in receiving any thing that came from out of doors; and the continual perfumes with which we were regaled, to prevent the plague, as they say, were extremely strange to a novice in the customs of the country. We 3were confined to our apartment, and for three or four days no one came near us. We were really sick, but I took the caution not to let it be known; for the plague is so dreadful a scourge, and operates so powerfully on human fears and human prejudices, that, during its prevalence, if a man be ill, he must be ill of the plague, and if he die, he must have died of the plague: no inquiry is made, no examination takes place. Accordingly, had the people of the Occale come to the knowledge of our being indisposed, and particularly that we vomited, they would have concluded, though it was merely the effect of a new climate, that we had caught the pestilence in passing through the town; and the whole Occale would have been struck with terror, thinking the enemy was within the gate.

The Occale is an enclosure of several houses, so disposed as to form a square. There is no entrance to the area of the square but by the great gate, leading to a common staircase, above which a gallery takes you to every house. In plague time, the people of these habitations must communicate with each other without touching: no provision can enter without being passed through water, nor must bread be touched whilst warm. The disease is so easily 4caught, that a piece of thread blown by the wind is quite sufficient to infect the whole country. Had it been known that we were ill, no one would have come near us, except the Arabs, who go in case of sickness indiscriminately to every one; and are thus likely to spread the plague, by giving it to those who had it not. Many die the victims of neglect, merely because every disease is taken for the plague: others are victims of a different kind, of the atrocious, interested views of their relatives, who, profiting by their death, may take what advantage they please, even by poison, as no investigation takes place in any instance. “He died of the plague” is the general cry, whatever may be the disease; and as several hundreds perish daily, they are all carried away without distinction.

After the 24th of June, called the great St. John, the plague nearly ceased; and as my principal view was to reach Cairo, we hired a boat, in company with Mr. Turner, an English gentleman, who was going up the Nile. We sailed on the 1st of July, but, owing to contrary winds, were brought back the same evening. The next day we re-embarked, and were then obliged to land at Aboukir, in consequence of high winds. We visited 5the place, where many a brave fellow had fallen a sacrifice to the war, and to the glory of his country. Human bones were scattered here and there.

Continuing our voyage the same day, we entered the mouth of the Nile, and landed at Rosetta; four days more brought us to Boolak, within a mile of Cairo. Though our eyes began to be accustomed to the sight of the Arabs in Alexandria, the bustling scene here was still more striking. The majestic appearance of Turkish soldiers in various costumes, without regularity or discipline, Arabs of many tribes, boats, canjeas, camels, horses, and asses, all in motion, presented a striking picture. I landed, and went immediately to Cairo; and as the holy fathers of the convent of Terrasanta could not receive women within their walls, we were accommodated in an old house in Boolak, belonging to Mr. Baghos, to whom I was recommended. He was the principal interpreter of Mahomed Ali, and director of all foreign affairs: a man of great acuteness of understanding, and so well disposed towards strangers, particularly Europeans, that it was soon arranged, that on such a day I was to be presented to his highness the Bashaw, to make my proposal. The house we inhabited was so 6old and out of repair, that I expected every moment it would fall on our heads; all the windows were shut up with broken wooden rails; the staircase was in so wretched a condition, that scarcely a step was left entire; the door was fastened simply by a pole placed against it, having neither lock nor any thing else to secure the entrance. There were many rooms in it, but the ceiling in all of them was in a most threatening state. The whole furniture consisted of a single mat in one of the best rooms, which we considered as our drawing-room. We had mattresses and linen with us, otherwise we must have adopted the Arab method of sleeping: as no chairs are to be had in this country, we sat on the ground; a box and a trunk served as a table: fortunately, we had a few plates, as well as knives and forks, which we had provided to use in the boat; and James, our Irish lad, bought us a set of culinary utensils, of pottery. Such were our accommodations.

Though my principal object was not antiquities at that time, I could not restrain myself from going to see the wonder of the world, the pyramids. I took an opportunity of going with Mr. Turner, who obtained an escort of soldiers from the Bashaw to accompany us. We went 7there to sleep, that we might ascend the first pyramid early enough in the morning to see the rising of the sun; and accordingly we were on the top of it long before the dawn of day. The scene here is majestic and grand far beyond description: a mist over the plains of Egypt formed a veil, which ascended and vanished gradually as the sun rose and unveiled to the view that beautiful land, once the site of Memphis. The distant view of the smaller pyramids on the south marked the extension of that vast capital; while the solemn, endless spectacle of the desert on the west inspired us with reverence for the all-powerful Creator. The fertile lands on the north, with the serpentine course of the Nile, descending towards the sea; the rich appearance of Cairo, and its numerous minarets, at the foot of the Mokatam mountain on the east; the beautiful plain which extends from the pyramids to that city; the Nile, which flows magnificently through the centre of the sacred valley, and the thick groves of palm-trees under our eyes; all together formed a scene, of which very imperfect ideas can be given by the most elaborate description. We descended to admire at some distance the astonishing pile that 8stood before us, composed of such an accumulation of enormous blocks of stones, that I was at a loss to conjecture how they could be brought thither; and presently we entered the pyramid: but I must reserve for some other time the more minute account of this wonderful work. We went round the second pyramid, examined several of these mausoleums, and returned to Cairo with the satisfaction of having seen a wonder, which I had long desired, but never supposed I should have the happiness to behold.

A few days after we made a party of Europeans, to go as far as Sacara by water, and after visiting the pyramids of that place, the party returned to Cairo, except Mr. Turner and myself, who went to see the pyramids of Dajior. These are considerably smaller than the large ones, I believe in the proportion of about one to six. One of them is of a different form, as it has a curve in the angles, which brings it to a perpendicular near the ground. This, and those at Sacara, which appear like hanging galleries, differ from the generality in point of shape; but the two of Dajior are in better preservation than any of the rest. I observed also near Sacara and Betracina, which I believe to be the central part of Memphis, the 9remains of other pyramids, which, by their dilapidated state, induced me to suppose, that they are of an earlier date than any of the rest. At this time I had no opportunity of visiting the pits of the embalmed mummies of birds; but a Fellah brought us one of the earthen vases that contained a bird, which I believed to be a hawk by the shape of the bones. The vase was so perfect, that we laughed at the Arab for his attempting to impose on us. Seeing that he could not sell his piece of antiquity, and that he was laughed at besides, he broke the vase before us, to show what connoisseurs we were of antiques. We overshot the mark this time; for the caution that had been given us, never to credit what an Arab says, made us disbelieve the truth. On our returning towards the Nile, we passed by the broken pyramid of sun-baked bricks; and it appeared to me, on examining it afterwards, that it did not decay gradually, like the other pyramids, but by large masses of the bricks separating at a time from the rest.

On our arrival at the Nile it was quite night, and we had to pass several villages to come to a place where we could embark for old Cairo. Our road was through a cluster of palm-trees, which by moonlight had a most solemn effect. 10Some of the Arabs were dancing to the usual tunes on the tambourines; and, forgetting perhaps the slavish condition in which they are held by the Turks, were happy for a while. We took a small boat, and arrived in old Cairo before day. Two days after I was to be presented to the Bashaw on the subject of my hydraulic project; and accordingly I went to the house of Mr. Baghos, where I first became acquainted with the late Mr. Burckhardt. This acquaintance was a fortunate circumstance for me, as the various and important information I acquired from him proved to be of the greatest service to me in that country, and I shall ever remember it with the deepest gratitude. Going to the citadel with Mr. Baghos, we had to pass through several of the principal streets, which are always crowded with people, and for this reason a stranger supposes the capital to be very populous; but except these streets and the bazars, the rest of the town is quite deserted, and a great number of falling houses and much rubbish are to be seen every where. We were mounted on our asses, the most convenient and only mode of travelling for Franks in that city. We met a soldier on horseback, who, when he came near, gave me such a blow with his stirrup upon my right leg, that I thought he had cut 11it in two. The stirrups of the Turks, which are like shovels, cut very sharp; and one of the corners, catching the calf of my leg, tore off a piece of flesh in a triangular form, two inches broad, and pretty deep. After this he swore two or three oaths at me, and went on as if nothing had happened. The blood ran out copiously; and, instead of seeing the Bashaw, I was taken to the convent of Terrasanta, as the nearest Christian place I could go to. It is to be remarked, that, at this time, there was a great discontent among the soldiers against the Bashaw, for having given orders, that they should learn the European military evolutions; and, as I was in a Frank’s dress, I suppose the fellow paid me for what he had learned of European fighting. From the convent I was taken home to my house in Boolak, where I remained under cure for thirty days, before I could stand on my legs.

During my confinement in this house, I had an opportunity of observing at some distance the manners of the Arabs, who passed under our window. Our house stood in a good situation, where we could observe all the landing from the boats that came from Alexandria and Rosetta. All the goods which went or came passed our residence; and the caravans of the Moors from 12Mecca halted for several days in this place. It was a strange sight for us, to observe these people in their tents, living in separate families, while their chief occupation was sitting on the ground, smoking, singing, and saying prayers, which I observed lasted sometimes three or four hours, besides the ceremonial prayers, repeated standing and kneeling. I did not make any minute observations, for, as I have said, my first occupation was with a different view; nor did I expect at that period, that I should ever have any thing to do with these people, as a traveller.

When I recovered, I was presented to Mahomet Ali Bashaw, who received me very civilly. Seeing that I walked lamely, and being told the cause, he said, such accidents could not be avoided where there were troops. I made an arrangement with him, and undertook to erect a machine, which would raise as much water with one ox, as the machines of the country with four. He was much pleased with my proposal, as it would save the labour and expense of many thousands of oxen in the country; a matter of importance, since these animals are scarcely of any other use than working; for, though they are in pretty good condition, they are seldom killed for food, the Turks eating mutton, and the Arabs buffalo’s flesh, when they can afford it. The 13Bashaw was just returned from Arabia, where he had conquered some of the Wahaby tribes, and delivered the holy cities of Mecca and Medina from the Infidels. He himself conducted the war till lately, when his son Ibrahim Bashaw conquered some of the great chiefs, who were taken prisoners, and sent to Constantinople, where they were executed. Notwithstanding this, I am of opinion, that Mecca will be to the Turks, what Jerusalem is to the Christians; for unless a strong army be kept there, the of Mahomet Ali will have no better effect than that of our Godfrey of Bouillon.

During the time that I was engaged in preparing my hydraulic machine, one morning I went on the road towards Cairo, and, to my surprise, found a perfect silence, instead of the continual confusion of noise and bustle of every description. The boatmen were getting their boats ready, as if to set off immediately. No camels appeared to carry water to Cairo; no ass-drivers were seen; no shops open; and no person in the streets. I could not conceive what was the reason of this singularity, nor could I inquire of any one, as no person was in the way; but, being Friday, I concluded it might be some particular holiday with the Mahommedans. I went on, and still met no one. 14The distance from Boolak to Cairo is about a mile through an open country; and midway is a bridge, near which I found a group of soldiers. I continued my walk without noticing them; one of them, however, levelled a gun at me, and all the rest laughed at the idea of frightening a Frank.

I passed on till I entered Cairo. When I reached the Franks’ quarter, both gates were shut; but through the small door I observed a Frank, engaged like myself in the act of peeping, and who proved to be Mr. Bocty, the Swedish consul-general, who was surprised to see me. I could not imagine what all this meant. At first I concluded, that a violent plague had broken out, and that every one kept his house: but the Mahommedans do not seclude themselves on such occasions; so I was at a loss what inference to draw. Mr. Bocty anxiously inquired of me how I happened to be there, whence I came, and what I had seen on the road; and he was not a little surprised, when I told him, that I came from Boolak, and did not see any thing particular on the way. I had not been at the door long, before we heard a great noise in some of the streets, and a volley of musketry discharged. I was then hurried into the Franks’ quarter, and the gates were 15closely shut. I was soon informed, that a revolution had broken out among the soldiers against the Bashaw, and that some of the troops were in pursuit of him to the citadel, whither he had retired for safety. Strange as it may appear, it proved, that by our not communicating with any body in Boolak, we knew nothing of what passed in the morning at Cairo; and it so happened, that at the very place where the revolution had begun, which was the seraglio, in the Esbakie, no one was visible when I passed; for after the Bashaw had retired into the citadel, all the soldiers ran after him; and as to the rest of the people, no one came out of their houses. All the Franks in their quarter were alarmed, and prepared for defence, in case the gates should be attacked. I went to the house of Mr. Baghos, in the same quarter, as I had business with him, and he was not a little surprised to see me, knowing where I lived.

I was much concerned for Mrs. Belzoni, whom I had left at home with only James and an Arab; and though Mr. Baghos endeavoured to persuade me to stop with him all night, I insisted on returning almost immediately. I went off unperceived by any one in the house; but at the gates of the quarter I found great difficulty in having the door opened; and no sooner 16was I out, than it was instantly closed after me. I took the same road that I came, and had not gone far, when I met a body of armed soldiers running towards the centre of the town. Advancing further, I heard several muskets discharged in a street near, and many others at some distance; indeed there was a continual firing kept up. On my approaching the Esbakie, I saw several soldiers running towards the seraglio, and others hastening towards me. When they came up, one seized the bridle of my donkey, while another took me by the collar, and the rest were busied in rifling my pockets. I had but a few dollars in my possession; and my pocket-book contained only letters and passports, of which I know not how they have disposed: but what principally drew their attention was a white topaz brooch, which I had in the frill of my shirt, and which they took for a brilliant. I kept in good humour with them; and when I perceived their attention to the topaz, I began to move in order to depart. I do not know whether I had reason to fear they would call after me, suspecting that I marked them so as to recognise them again: but I proceeded, and nothing further happened to me on the road.

For several days we kept ourselves close in 17the house, as we were advised by a friendly Turk, our neighbour, not to be seen. During this time, the soldiers plundered the shops in Cairo, and the Bashaw sent the Syrian horse against them, now known under the appellation of Tartoor. These were the only troops faithful to him; but being mounted, they could not follow the Albanians, who were posted in ploughed fields between Cairo and Boolak. One day the cavalry advanced and the Albanians retired towards Boolak. Our house was so situated, that from the upper part of it we could see the firing of the troops on one side, and on the other the confusion of the people, who had taken to the boats, which were soon crowded with them, and in the hurry many of them went adrift. It was expected, that the troops would plunder the place, if they entered it: in such case, I depended on the appearance and ruined state of our habitation, which I had reason to think, would rather deter the soldiers from entering it, lest it should fall on their heads, than invite them to plunder. Besides, we had no treasure with us, unless they had taken our kitchen furniture of earthen pots, &c. There was a universal cry among the people, and the troops advanced to the very entrance of the town; but, fortunately, they were prevented 18from coming in by the cavalry, who, by making a circuit, had taken post on the road. The confusion continued in this manner for several days: at last, after having plundered and ravaged Cairo at their pleasure, the troops retired to their camps, and in a few days more matters were arranged again. I have reason to think, that the Bashaw knew who the chief instigators of this insurrection were, for we found that several persons shortly after died of sudden deaths; and, indeed, many of the Chiefs and Beys disappeared. The discontented troops were all sent to encampments in various stations at a distance from Cairo, and part towards Mecca; but the European exercise, which was said to have been the cause of the revolt of the troops, was wholly abandoned, and consigned to oblivion. Turks are averse to control of any sort, and particularly to what is not the result of Mahommedan customs. I was never more amused, than when I saw our military evolutions attempted by men, whose large trowsers are peculiarly unsuited to our light motions.

When all was quiet again, I recommenced my hydraulic preparations. The place, where I was to erect my machine, was in Soubra, at the garden of the Bashaw, on the Nile, three miles from Cairo. We went to reside there, in a 19small house within the walls of the governor’s palace, which was closed at night by large gates, something like the Occales in Alexandria. I had many provoking difficulties to encounter, before I became acquainted with the people of the place, as they supposed, that the introduction of such machines into the country would throw many of them out of work; consequently I was not welcome among them; and the very persons who were to furnish me with what was necessary in wood, iron, carpentry, &c. would be the first to suffer by it, if the machine succeeded. It may, therefore, easily be imagined that I had to contend with many obstacles, besides the prejudice against all strangers, or innovations in the customs of the natives. As a proof of this may be cited the iron hydraulic machine already in Soubra, sent as a present from England to the Bashaw of Egypt, which is said to have cost ten thousand pounds. It was neatly put up, though the engineer, who was in charge of it, met with many difficulties before he effected it. At last it was set to work; but as it was imagined that an English machine would inundate the whole country in an hour, the quantity of water raised was not adequate to their expectation, and it has been left useless ever since. For my own part, I have 20no doubt, that the machine might have been made to draw up more water, if the person who constructed it could have seen the place and situation in which it was to act. The failure in this instance had given me an early surmise of what might be my own fate; and I was not mistaken.

During my stay at Soubra I became acquainted with many Turks, and in particular with the governor of the palace, as we had our house within his walls. The garden of the Bashaw was under his care, and a guard was kept at the gates. The seraglio is so situated, that the front looks over the Nile: at the back of it is the garden, which is under the care of Greeks, who in a few years have brought it to great perfection. There are beautiful alcoves, made in form of cupolas, entirely covered with plants; and the water machines, which are constantly at work, keep up a perpetual verdure. There is a fountain in the European style, and a great quantity of fruit, particularly grapes and peaches; but they never grow to any size like ours, for many get rotten and fall before they are ripe; in consequence, the Turks eat them green.

The Bashaw is in continual motion, being sometimes at his citadel, and sometimes at his 21seraglio in the Esbakie; but Soubra is his principal residence. His chief amusement is in the evening a little before sunset, when he quits his seraglio, and seats himself on the bank of the Nile, to fire at an earthen pot, with his guards. If any of them hit it, he makes him a present, occasionally of forty or fifty rubies. He is himself an excellent marksman; for I saw him fire at and hit a pot only fifteen inches high, set on the ground on the opposite side of the Nile, though the river at Soubra is considerably wider than the Thames at Westminster Bridge. As soon as it is dark, he retires into the garden, and reposes either in an alcove, or by the margin of a fountain, on an European chair, with all his attendants round him. Here his numerous buffoons keep him in continual high spirits and good humour. By moonlight the scene was beautiful. I was admitted into the garden whenever I wished, by which means I had an opportunity of observing the domestic life of a man, who from nothing rose to be viceroy of Egypt, and conqueror of the most powerful tribes of Arabia.

From the number of lights I frequently saw through the windows of the seraglio, I supposed the ladies were at such times amusing themselves in some way or other. Dancing women 22are often brought to divert them, and sometimes the famous Catalani of Egypt was introduced. One of the buffoons of the Bashaw took it into his head one day, for a frolic, to shave his beard; which is no trifle among the Turks; for some of them, I really believe, would sooner have their head cut off than their beard: he borrowed some Franks’ clothes of the Bashaw’s apothecary, who was from Europe, and, after dressing himself in our costume, presented himself to the Bashaw as an European, who could not speak a single word either of Turkish or Arabic, which is often the case. Being in the dark, the Bashaw took him for what he represented himself to be, and sent immediately for the interpreter, who put some questions to him in Italian, which he did not answer: he was then questioned in French, but no reply; and next in the German and Spanish languages, and still he was silent; at last, when he saw that they were all deceived, the Bashaw not excepted, he burst out in plain Turkish, the only language he was acquainted with, and his well known voice told them who he was; for such was the change of his person, particularly by the cutting off his beard, that otherwise they could scarcely have recognised him. The Bashaw was delighted with the fellow; and, to 23keep up the frolic, gave him an order on the treasury for an enormous sum of money, and sent him to the Kaciabay, to present himself as a Frank, to receive it. The Kaciabay started at the immensity of the sum, as it was nearly all that the treasury could furnish: but upon questioning this new European, it was soon perceived who he was. In this attire he went home to his women, who actually thrust him out of the door; and such was the disgrace of cutting off his beard, that even his fellow buffoons would not eat with him till it was grown again.

The Bashaw seems to be well aware of the benefits that may be derived from his encouraging the arts of Europe in his country, and had already reaped some of the fruits of it. The fabrication of gunpowder, the refining of sugar, the making of fine indigo, and the silk manufacture, are introduced, much to his advantage: he is constantly inquiring after something new, and is delighted with any thing strange to his imagination. Having heard of electricity, he sent to England for two electric machines, one with a plate, the other with a cylinder. The former was broken by the way; the latter was dismounted. The physician of the Bashaw, an Arminian, did not know, though it was so easy a matter, how to set it up. Happening to be 24at the garden one evening, when they were attempting it, and could not succeed, I was requested to put the several pieces together; and, having done so, I made one of the soldiers mount on the insulating stool, charged the machine, and gave the Turk a good shock; who, expecting no such thing, uttered a loud cry, and jumped off, as much terrified as if he had seen the devil. The Bashaw laughed at the man’s jumping off, supposing his fright to be a trick, and not the effect of the machine; and when told, that it was actually occasioned by the machine, he affirmed positively that it could not be, for the soldier was at such a distance, that it was impossible the small chain he held in his hand could have such power. I then desired the interpreter to inform his Highness, that if he would mount the stool himself, he would be convinced of the fact. He hesitated for a while whether to believe me or not; however he mounted the stool. I charged well, put the chain into his hand, and gave him a pretty smart shock. He jumped off, like the soldier, on feeling the effect of the electricity; but immediately threw himself on the sofa in a fit of laughter, not being able to conceive how the machine could have such power on the human body.

25The governor of Soubra, Zulfur Carcaja, was a Mamelouk of about sixty-five years of age, and an instance of the promotion of one of that body of men, who for so many centuries ruled Egypt. His political conduct towards the Bashaw procured him the place of governor of a village, which contained the residence of the Bashaw himself, and a vast tract of land, the cultivation of which was entirely under his direction. He was a learned man among the Turks, and had a considerable portion of knowledge in agriculture, which I suppose to be the cause of his continuing to enjoy the Bashaw’s favour. He had travelled a great deal in the Ottoman dominions, and had acquired much information; which is uncommon for a Turk: but the prejudices of his nation, and the superstitions of his religion, notwithstanding all this, did not quit him an instant. At night I used to go to his divan, or conversazione, to chat, drink coffee, and smoke a pipe. We agreed in many points; but on that of the hydraulic machine I could make no impression upon him, as it was against his interest to be convinced. He was one day taken very ill; and as there was no physician nearer than Cairo, he sent to know whether we could do something for him. As it was only a violent cold, Mrs. Belzoni sent 26him a negus, which he liked so well, that he continued the medicine for several days.

Some time after this, Mrs. Belzoni had a pain in her side. One evening, I went to his divan; and as he always inquired after the health of his physician, I informed him of the circumstance: upon which he assured me, that it was nothing but what he would find a remedy for immediately; and he rose and went into an inner room, from which with all imaginable pomp and devotion he brought out a book. The Sheik of the mosque was present; and, after turning over and over again the leaves of this book, they concluded on what was to be done. Three pieces of paper were cut in a triangular form, the size of a playing card, and the Sheik wrote on them several words in Arabic. Of these pieces of paper, he told me, that Mrs. Belzoni must fasten one to her forehead by a string, and one to each ear. He then fetched a piece of the skin of a lamb, that had been sacrificed during the feast of Bairam. The Sheik wrote on this also, and it was to be applied to the part affected. I thanked him very much for his kindness, and brought away the amulets, which we keep to this day, as a memorial of the Turkish method of curing pains. It happened, that Mrs. Belzoni was 27somewhat better a day or two after, and the old Turk exulted in having repaid the obligation he had incurred, when cured by her of his cold.

The Arabs of Soubra exhibit as much festivity, when a marriage of consequence takes place, as those of any of the villages in Egypt. Fortunately, one happened while we were there; and as the window of our house overlooked the very spot where the festival was to be celebrated, we had an opportunity of seeing the whole ceremony. Early in the morning of the grand holiday, a high pole was planted in the centre of the place, with a banner belonging to the village. A large assembly of people gathered under it, and preparations were made for an illumination with glass lamps, &c. The Arabs from other villages came to the feast in procession, beating their tambourines, and waving their flags. At some distance from the pole they halted, and did not advance till a deputation was sent to invite them to the feast. The elders of the village seated themselves around and under the pole, and the strangers at a little distance. One of those standing near the pole, who had an uncommonly good windpipe, began to sing; while the rest divided themselves into two parties, forming two circles, one within the 28other, round the pole and facing each other. By each man putting his arms over his neighbours’ shoulders, each circle formed a continuous chain. The outer circle stood still, while the people of the inner circle kept dancing and bowing in an orderly manner to those in the outer. Thus they continued three hours, and those who were not in the circles made separate rings by themselves. Some of the Hadgees, who were desirous of exhibiting their powers in ceremonial devotion, went on positively for two hours, and some minutes, bending their bodies nearly to the ground, and raising them up again with such quickness, that it would be impossible for any one, who was not accustomed to it, to undergo such exertion a quarter of an hour. All the women were at a distance by themselves, and among them was the bride. When the dancing and singing ended, they all sat down in large circles; and a great quantity of boiled rice was brought to them in large wooden bowls, beside a number of dishes of melokie and bamies^[1], and three or four large sheep roasted, which were immediately torn to pieces and devoured. For the drinking department they had a number of boys, who were fully employed in fetching 29water in large bardacks from the Nile; but some of the party I knew had a sly corner, to which to retire for a drop of horaky; for it is in this private way they drink it. At night, the pole and all the place around it was illuminated. The people seated themselves in an orderly manner, in the form of an amphitheatre, the women forming a part of the circle, separate from the men. A band of tambourines and pipes was continually playing; and the entertainment began with dancing, by two well-known and distinguished performers.

This particular mode of dancing, I believe, has never been described, and all who see it properly must be excused from giving a faithful picture of it. When the dancing was at an end, a sort of play was performed, the intent of which was to exhibit life and manners, as we do in our theatres. The subject represented an Hadgee, who wants to go to Mecca, and applies to a camel-driver, to procure a camel for him. The driver imposes on him, by not letting him see the seller of the camel, and putting a higher price on it than is really asked, giving so much less to the seller than he received from the purchaser. A camel is produced at last, made up by two men covered with a cloth, as if ready to depart for Mecca. The Hadgee mounts on 30the camel, but finds it so bad, that he refuses to take it, and demands his money back again. A scuffle takes place, between the purchaser and the driver, when, by chance, the seller of the camel appears, and finds that the camel in question is not that which he sold to the driver for the Hadgee. Thus it turns out, that the driver was not satisfied with imposing both on the buyer and seller in the price, but had also kept the good camel for himself, and produced a bad one to the Hadgee. In consequence he receives a good drubbing, and runs off.—Simple as this story appears, yet it was so interesting to the audience, that it seemed as if nothing could please them better, as it taught them to be on their guard against dealers in camels, &c.—This was the play; and the afterpiece represented an European traveller, who served as a sort of clown. He is in the dress of a Frank; and, on his travels, comes to the house of an Arab, who, though poor, wishes to have the appearance of being rich. Accordingly he gives orders to his wife, to kill a sheep immediately. She pretends to obey; but returns in a few minutes, saying, that the flock has strayed away, and it would be the loss of too much time to fetch one. The host then orders four fowls to be killed; but these cannot be caught. 31A third time, he sends his wife for pigeons; but the pigeons are all out of their holes; and at last the traveller is treated only with sour milk and dhourra bread^[2], the only provision in the house. This finishes the play.

During my stay in Soubra, a circumstance took place, which I shall remember as long as I live, and which showed me plainly the country I was in, and the people I had to deal with. Some particular business calling me to Cairo, I was on my ass in one of the narrow streets, where I met a loaded camel. The space that remained between the camel and the wall was so little, that I could scarcely pass; and at that moment I was met by a Binbashi, a subaltern officer, at the head of his men. For the instant I was the only obstacle that prevented his proceeding on the road; and I could neither retreat nor turn round, to give him room to pass. Seeing it was a Frank who stopped his way, he gave me a violent blow on my stomach. Not being accustomed to put up with such salutations, I returned the compliment with my whip across his naked shoulders. Instantly he took his pistol out of his belt; I jumped off my ass; he retired about two yards, 32pulled the trigger, fired at my head, singed the hair near my right ear, and killed one of his own soldiers, who, by this time, had come behind me. Finding that he had missed his aim, he took out a second pistol; but his own soldiers assailed and disarmed him.

A great noise arose in the street, and, as it happened to be close to the seraglio in the Esbakie, some of the guards ran up; and on seeing what the matter was, they interfered and stopped the Binbashi. I thought my company was not wanted, so I mounted my charger, and rode off. I went to Mr. Baghos, and told him what had happened. We repaired immediately to the citadel, saw the Bashaw, and related the circumstance to him. He was much concerned, and wished to know where the soldier was, but observed, that it was too late that evening to have him taken up. However, he was apprehended the next day, and I never heard or knew any thing more about him. Such a lesson on the subject was not lost upon me; and I took good care, in future, not to give the least opportunity of the kind to men of that description, who can murder an European with as much indifference as they would kill an insect.

Some little time after this, another circumstance took place, which I cannot omit relating. 33A charming young lady, about sixteen years of age, daughter of the Chevalier Bocty, now consul-general of Sweden, went out of her house, in company with her mother, sister, and some other ladies, to go to a bath. They formed a cavalcade on asses, as is the custom of the country; and had not proceeded far from their door, when they met a soldier, a monster I should say, who took a pistol from his belt, and, with the greatest coolness, fired and killed the young lady. She was one of the most amiable creatures, both in her manners and person, that ever lived; and was most deservedly lamented by every one who knew her. This is quite enough, surely, to invite young European ladies to that country! I must say, to the honour of Mahomed Ali, that the monster was taken and executed: but what satisfaction could this be to her afflicted parents?

About this time Mr. Bankes arrived in this country, and proceeded almost immediately to Mount Sinai, and thence to Upper Egypt; but returned in three months, and went to Syria. Mr. Burckhardt had for a long time premeditated the removal of the colossal head, or rather bust, known by the name of Young Memnon, to England, and had often endeavoured to persuade the Bashaw to send it as a 34present to the Prince Regent; but as it must have appeared to a Turk too trifling an article to send to so great a personage, no steps were taken for this purpose. Mr. Burckhardt then proposed it to Mr. Bankes; but the reason why this gentleman did not take it away I am not acquainted with.

By this time the water machine was finished; and we waited the arrival of the Bashaw from Alexandria, to give his opinion on the advantages which might be derived from introducing it into the country. It was constructed on the principle of a crane with a walking wheel, in which a single ox, by its own weight alone, could effect as much as four oxen employed in the machines of the country. I accomplished this undertaking, notwithstanding the various species of intrigue and difficulty which were incessantly thrown in my way. The Bashaw arrived at Cairo, but did not come to Soubra till some time after.

At this period Mr. Salt, the consul-general from England, arrived in that capital, having business to transact in Cairo. I had frequent interviews with Mr. Burckhardt; and, knowing the wish he had for the removal of the colossal bust of Memnon, I repeatedly told him that I would undertake its conveyance from Thebes 35to Alexandria, so that it might be sent to England. On the arrival of Mr. Salt, Mr. Burckhardt proposed it to him; and shortly after having myself occasion to see that gentleman, I repeated to him, before Mr. Burckhardt, that I should be happy to undertake the removal of the bust, without the smallest view of interest, as it was to go to the British Museum. The consul seemed inclined to comply, but was indecisive for some time, saying he would think about it. A few days after this, he avoided all communication, keeping himself in strict seclusion, as the plague had begun to show itself in the streets of Cairo.

The Bashaw was now come to Soubra, accompanied with several connoisseurs in hydraulics. The machine was set to work; and, although constructed with bad wood and bad iron, and erected by Arabian carpenters and bricklayers, it was a question whether it did not draw six or seven times as much water as the common machines. The Bashaw, after long consideration, gave his decision; and declared, that it drew up only four times as much. It is to be observed, that the water produced by this machine was measured by comparison with the water procured by six of their own; and that, at the time of measuring, the Arabs urged 36their animals at such a rate, that they could not have continued their exertion above an hour; and for the moment they produced nearly double the quantity of water, that was usually obtained. Notwithstanding all this, the calculation of the Bashaw was to my satisfaction, as it decided on the accomplishment of my undertaking. Still Mahommed Ali perceived plainly the prejudice among the Arabs, and some of the Turks, who were concerned in the cultivation of the land: for instead of four hundred people, and four hundred oxen, they would have only to command one hundred of each, which would make a considerable difference in their profits: but, as it happened, an accident occurred, that put an end to all their fears.

The Bashaw took it into his head to have the oxen taken out of the wheel, in order to see, by way of frolic, what effect the machine would have by putting fifteen men into it. James, the Irish lad in my service, entered along with them; but no sooner had the wheel turned once round, than they all jumped out, leaving the lad alone in it. The wheel, of course, overbalanced by the weight of the water, turned back with such velocity, that the catch was unable to stop it. The lad was thrown out, and in the fall broke one of his thighs. I contrived to stop 37the wheel before it did farther injury, which might have been fatal to him. The Turks have a belief, that, when such accidents happen in the commencement of any new invention, it is a bad omen. In consequence of this, exclusive of the prejudice against the machine itself, the Bashaw had been persuaded to abandon the affair. It had been stated to him, also, that it cost as much as four of the usual machines in making, while nothing was said of the advantages as to the oxen, that would be saved in the working of it. The business ended in this manner; and all that was due to me from the Bashaw was consigned to oblivion, as well as the stipulation I had made with him.

It was with considerable pain to my feelings, that I reflected on the idea of leaving a country, which has ever been one of the principal points of research among the learned. The fame of its antiquity excited in me the desire of investigation; but, under the circumstances I have mentioned, my purse would not afford the expenses of a journey to any great distance; and having Mrs. Belzoni with me, it required some deliberation, before I could decide, whether I should proceed to the north or to the south. I had been to visit the consul-general, but nothing more was said respecting the colossal head; so 38that the project of removing it seemed to have been forgotten. After having taken all matters into consideration, and made a proper calculation of the expenses, I found, that in an economical way I could make a voyage as far as Assouan and back again.

From the circumstances that follow, the reader will be able to form a proper idea of the motives by which I was induced to undertake the removal of the Memnonium bust, which is now lodged in the British Museum; and for what purpose I made the researches, and accumulated the various remains of antiquity, which will find a place in this volume. There will be no occasion for me to enter into such particulars as would call for the evidence of others to the facts, as I am well assured, that a simple statement of the case will make the reader perfectly acquainted with it.

It has been erroneously stated, that I was regularly employed by Mr. Salt, the consul-general of his Britannic majesty in Egypt, for the purpose of bringing the colossal bust from Thebes to Alexandria. I positively deny that I was ever engaged by him in any shape whatever, either by words or writing; as I have proofs of the case being on the contrary. When I ascended the Nile, the first and second time, I 39had no other idea in my mind, but that I was making researches for antiquities, which were to be placed in the British Museum; and it is naturally to be supposed that I would not have made these excursions, had I been previously aware, that all I found was for the benefit of a gentleman, whom I never had the pleasure to see before in my life. But what has displeased me above all is, that while occupied in my researches an advantage has been taken, and a notion promulgated, the very reverse of the real matter of fact; and I am sorry I cannot be silent on the subject, feeling it an indispensable duty to myself, as well as the public, to bring the truth to light. I am happy, however, to state, that I succeeded in putting all the articles of my discovery on their way to the British Museum, though not in the same manner in which I thought they were to be entered in that place at first, as was the case with the young Memnon head.

The indecision, whether I should go up or down the Nile, came at last to a point. I know not what to call it, whether curiosity, or that enthusiasm for antiquities, which I can trace from my younger days while in Rome, that spurred me on to decide to ascend the Nile.

40Agreeably to the resolution I had taken, I hired a boat at a very cheap rate, with four sailors, a boy, and the Reis, or captain. I made provision for the voyage, and every thing was ready for our departure. Any one may ascend the Nile without being interrupted; but it is better to obtain a firman from the Bashaw, in case of the want of protection from any of his Beys, Cacheffs, or Caimakans, in Upper Egypt; and Mahomet Ali was always ready to give a firman to any one who asked for it. I communicated my intended departure to Mr. Burckhardt, who, on hearing that nothing more was said about taking away the colossal head, seemed to be quite disappointed. Being a native of that part of Italy which had lately come under the Austrian dominions, I might have applied to the Austrian consul, to obtain a firman from the Bashaw: but as I enjoyed the British protection, I applied to the British consul. Going to his house for the purpose, I found Mr. Burckhardt there: it seems he had persuaded the consul to avail himself of the opportunity of my ascending the Nile, by offering to pay half the expense. Accordingly, when I informed the consul of my intended journey, and that I came to request he would do me the favour to obtain a firman for me from the 41Bashaw, he expressed his joy by exclaiming, “This is a godsend indeed!” and I was then informed, that they had made up their minds to have the colossus conveyed down the Nile, and to offer it as a present to the British Museum, if I would kindly undertake the removal of it. I replied that my capacity was little, but that I would use all my efforts to succeed in the enterprise; adding that I should be happy at all times to increase the British Museum with the product of my exertions. To which the British consul answered, “And I shall be glad to do every thing in my power to promote your wishes.” This was all that passed on either side.

As I was unacquainted with the upper country, I received instructions concerning the manner in which I was to proceed, to obtain information, and to provide myself with implements for the purpose in view. The instructions were as follow:

“Boolak, June 28, 1816.

“Mr. Belzoni is requested to prepare the necessary implements, at Boolak, for the purpose of raising the head of the statue of the younger Memnon, and carrying it down the Nile. He will proceed as speedily as circumstances will allow, to Siout, there to deliver his letters, prepared 42for that effect, to Ibrahim Bashaw, or whoever may be left in the charge of the government; and he will, at that place, consult with Doctor Scotto on the subject of his further proceedings. He will take care to engage a proper boat for bringing down the head, and will request Mr. Scotto to provide him with a soldier to go up with him, for the purpose of engaging the Fellahs to work whenever he may require their assistance, as otherwise they are not likely to attend to Mr. Belzoni’s orders; and he should on no account leave Siout without an interpreter.

“Having obtained the necessary permission to hire workmen, &c., Mr. Belzoni will proceed direct to Thebes. He will find the head referred to on the western side of the river, opposite to Carnak, in the vicinity of a village called Gournou, lying on the southern side of a ruined temple, called by the natives Kossar el Dekaki. To the head is still attached a portion of the shoulders, so that altogether it is of large dimensions, and will be recognized,—1st, by the circumstance of its lying on its back with the face uppermost—2dly, by the face being quite perfect, and very beautiful—3dly, by its having, on one of its shoulders, a hole bored artificially, supposed to have been made by the French for separating the fragment of the body—and 434thly, from its being a mixed blackish and reddish granite, and covered with hieroglyphics on its shoulders. It must not be mistaken for another, lying in that neighbourhood, which is much mutilated.

“Mr. Belzoni will spare no expense or trouble in getting it as speedily conveyed to the banks of the river as possible; and he will, if it be necessary, let it wait there till the river shall have attained sufficient height, before he attempts to get it into the boat. But, at the same time, he is requested not to attempt removing it, on any account, if he should judge there would be any serious risk of either injuring the head, of burying the face in the sand, or of losing it in the Nile.

“If, on arriving at the ground, too, he should perceive that his means are inadequate, or that the difficulties of the undertaking, from the nature of the ground, or other causes, are likely to prove insurmountable, he will, at once, relinquish the enterprise, and not enter into farther expense on that account.

“Mr. Belzoni will have the goodness to keep a separate account of the expenses incurred in this undertaking, which, as well as his other expenses, will gladly be reimbursed; as, from the knowledge of Mr. Belzoni’s character, it is 44confidently believed they will be as reasonable as circumstances will allow.

“The boat meant to carry the head should be hired for a sufficient time to allow of its being carried directly down to Alexandria; but, on the way, Mr. Belzoni will not fail to stop at Boolak for further instructions.

“If Mr. Belzoni should ascertain the certainty of his being able to accomplish his purpose, he is requested immediately to despatch an express with the gratifying intelligence to Cairo.

“Henry Salt.”

I beg leave to observe, that in the whole of these instructions, though written in an assuming style, not a word is said about any payment to myself, which would certainly have been the case, had I been employed in the way that has been represented.

Every thing was ready in the boat for our departure from Boolak. The whole of the implements for the operation consisted of a few poles and ropes of palm leaves, no other implements being to be procured in the place at that time. Seeing I undertook the enterprise cheerfully, the consul did me the honour to request something more, which was, to purchase whatever 45antiquities I could on the road. I assented to his wishes; and for this purpose he supplied me with money, as well as for the removal of the colossal head. On the 30th of June we left Boolak; and as Mrs. Belzoni determined to accompany me, we took with us the Irish lad, and a Copt interpreter, who had been in the French army.

The first ruins we arrived at were those of Shak Abade, or the ancient Antinoe; for I omit the pyramids for the present. Not to depreciate the works of Adrian, these ruins did not surprise me at all. There are few columns standing; many are fallen; and what are of granite were evidently taken from more ancient edifices. I made a drawing of one of the standing columns, merely to give an idea of the order, &c. (see Plate 32); and we crossed the same day over to Ashmounain. Here is the first Egyptian architecture that travellers meet with on the Nile above the pyramids; and I must say, that it has made a great impression on my mind, though it is only a portico of two rows of columns. The solitary place on which it stands, in the midst of the ruins of Hermopolis, and the majestic appearance of the columns, of a form so uncommon to a European, cannot fail to inspire veneration for the 46people that erected such edifices. It appears to me, that these ruins are of remoter date than those of Thebes; which does not agree with the opinion, that the temples in the Lower Thebais were of later date than those of Upper Egypt. From what I have seen of the tombs in these mountains, I am of opinion, that Hermopolis was inhabited by some great people, as nothing can give juster ideas of the condition of the Egyptians than the quality of the tombs in which they were buried.

On the 5th, in the evening, we arrived at Manfalût, where we met Ibrahim, Bashaw of Upper Egypt, son of Mahomet Ali, on his way to Cairo. Having presented my letters, he politely requested, that I would deliver them to the Defterdar, who was left in command in Siout. Along with him was Mr. Drouetti, the ex-consul-general of the late government of France. He was on his return from Thebes, and had been in the habit of making a collection of antiquities during the many years he resided in Egypt. He was already informed, that I had undertaken to remove the colossal bust, and he told me the Arabs would not work at Thebes, as he had occasion to try them. He then made me a present of a granite cover of a sarcophagus, which the Arabs had 47discovered in one of the tombs. He said that he had employed several of them for many days to take it out for himself, but they could not succeed; so that, if I could take it out, I was welcome to it. I thanked him for his present, and proceeded on my voyage.

On the 6th, in the afternoon, we arrived in Siout. The Defterdar Bey was not there, but was expected in two or three days. I waited upon the physician of Ibrahim Bashaw, Mr. Scotto, to whom I was referred for information respecting boats, carpenters, &c. This person had never seen Mr. Salt, by whom I was recommended to him. He behaved, however, very well to Mr. Bankes, as I have reason to believe, when he passed that way, and he did also to me; but as to taking away the colossal bust, after gradually introducing the matter, he made many difficulties: first, about obtaining permission to have the necessary workmen; then there were no boats to be had; and next, the bust was a mass of stone not worth the carriage: at last, he plainly recommended to me not to meddle in this business, for I should meet with many disagreeable things, and have many obstacles to encounter. I saw that I could obtain but little help from this quarter; so I procured all that I wanted by means of my 48interpreter, and a few words of my own. I provided myself with a Greek carpenter, who agreed to follow us to Thebes; and on the sixth day the Bey arrived. He received me very politely. I presented the letter to him which Mr. Salt had obtained from Mahomet Ali himself, and he furnished me with orders to the Casheff of the province of Erments, to whom the Fellahs of Thebes are subject.

While waiting for the Bey, I visited the tombs of Issus. There are only two that are worth notice, and these are so decayed inside, that there is scarcely any remains of figures or painting; all the rest are small holes for the lower class of people. Siout is the capital of Sais, or Upper Egypt. There is a constant commerce kept up by the caravans from Darfoor. Negroes, feathers, elephants’ teeth, and gum, are the principal articles brought to market. The viceroy of Upper Egypt is always the first to select what he pleases from the caravan; for which he fixes his own price, and pays what he likes. The rest is for the merchants, who dare not buy any thing till the viceroy has made his choice.

This place is celebrated for the making of eunuchs. As soon as the operation is performed, the boys are buried in the ground, all 49but the head and shoulders; and many, who are not of strong constitutions, die with the excruciating pain. It is calculated, that the operation, during its performance or afterwards, proves fatal to two out of three.

Besides the usual produce of the country, wheat, beans, flax, and seeds, a great number of wax candles are made; and it is from hence Cairo is chiefly supplied with this article. Ibrahim Bashaw has latterly been the terror of the people. When an unfortunate culprit was brought before him, after some few questions, he sent him to the Cady^[3] to be judged. This was the signal for taking him to a particular cannon, to the mouth of which he was tied; and it was then fired off, loaded with a ball, so that the body was scattered about in pieces at a considerable distance. In the case of two Arabs, who had killed a soldier, not without provocation, this Bashaw had them fastened to a pole, like two rabbits on a spit, and roasted alive at a slow fire: yet this man is now heir to the government of Egypt on the death of Mahomet Ali.

On our proceeding up towards Acmin, we saw the columns at Gow; which have since all 50fallen into the river, one excepted. I observed there the largest monolite I have seen any where. It was near twelve feet high, but of very rough workmanship. The temple had been very extensive, but the work not of the best sort.

Next day, the 15th, we went to Acmin, to visit the fathers of that convent. There is nothing interesting in the place, except some stairs, the only remains of the ancient temple. One of the fathers told me, that at some distance in the mountain there is a small lake, which he had visited himself, entirely surrounded by cassia trees. Among the rubbish in the town are found a few trifling antiquities, but nothing of any consequence. The fathers took me to see the Casheff, or governor of the place; who, hearing that I was in search of antiquities, said that he well knew there were many in the town, for the Fellahs had often told him so. I inquired of him where they were? “Oh! but you cannot have them,” he replied: “they are all enchanted by the devil; and no one can take them from where they are!” I told him, if he would but tell me where they were, I would arrange the business in the other quarter. “That is very well,” said he; “but no one here dares to tell 51you, for fear the devil should do him a mischief.” He then informed me, that in the mountains, about six miles distant, there was a large gold ring stuck into the rock, which no one could take out: that some of his soldiers went with a cannon, and, after firing several balls at it, were returning without success, when by chance a man who was eating a cucumber threw a part of it at the ring, which immediately fell to the ground; so that it must have been fixed by enchantment there, and nothing but the rind of a cucumber could make it fall. This I received from the governor of a province! What sort of a country must that be, which allows itself to be ruled by a man of so elevated a mind!

On the 16th we passed before Manshia, and arrived at Gerge. There we procured some provision, and continued our voyage. It was from this place I visited Arabat, the ancient Abydos, two years after, as I shall take a proper opportunity of relating.

Near Cossar el Sajats there is a narrow passage of the Nile, particularly at low water. The wind here was so strong, that we made considerable way against the current, even without sails; or, in nautical language, “scudding under bare poles.”

52On the 18th, at night, we arrived at Dendera, where we saw a phenomenon that I never before heard of. A meteor appeared over our heads, and took its course towards the south; but so slowly, that, from the time of its setting off to that of its dispersion, to the best of my reckoning, it was visible for about twenty seconds. It first appeared of a bluish colour, then became white, and lastly red; leaving, apparently, many sparks on the way it had passed.

On the 19th, early in the morning, my curiosity was at a high pitch, the noted temple of Tentyra being the only thought I had in my head. Accordingly, we set off on asses, as usual, and proceeded to the ruins, nearly two miles from the Nile. Little could be seen of the temple, till we came near to it, as it is surrounded by high mounds of rubbish of the old Tentyra. On our arriving before it, I was for some time at a loss to know where I should begin my examination. The numerous objects before me, all equally attractive, left me for a while in a state of suspense and astonishment. The enormous masses of stone employed in the edifice are so well disposed, that the eye discovers the most just proportion every where. The majestic appearance of its construction, 53the variety of its ornaments, and, above all, the singularity of its preservation, had such an effect on me, that I seated myself on the ground, and for a considerable time was lost in admiration. It is the first Egyptian temple the traveller sees on ascending the Nile, and it is certainly the most magnificent. It has an advantage over most others, from the good state of preservation it is in; and I should have no scruple in saying, that it is of a much later date than many others. The superiority of the workmanship gives us sufficient reason to suppose it to be of the time of the first Ptolemy; and it is not improbable, that he, who laid the foundation of the Alexandrian library, instituted the philosophical society of the Museum, and studied to render himself beloved by his people, might erect such an edifice, to convince the Egyptians of his superiority of mind over the ancient kings of Egypt, even in religious devotion.

This is the cabinet of the Egyptian arts, the product of study for many centuries, and it was here that Denon thought himself in the sanctuary of the arts and sciences. The front is adorned with a beautiful cornice, and a frieze covered with figures and hieroglyphics, over the centre of which the winged globe is predominant, and the two sides are embellished 54with compartments of sacrifices and offerings. The columns that form the portico are twenty-four in number, divided into four rows, including those in the front. On entering the gate the scene changes, and requires more minute observation. The quadrangular form of the capitals first strikes the eye. At each side of the square there is a colossal head of the goddess Isis with cows’ ears. There is not one of these heads but is much mutilated, particularly those on the columns in the front of the temple facing the outside: but notwithstanding this disadvantage, and the flatness of their form, there is a simplicity in their countenance that approaches to a smile. The shafts of the columns are covered with hieroglyphics and figures, which are in basso relievo, as are all the figures in the front and lateral walls. The front of the doorway, which is in a straight line with the entrance and the sanctuary, is richly adorned with figures of smaller size than the rest of the portico. The ceiling contains the zodiac, inclosed by two long female figures, which extend from one side to the other of it. The walls are divided into several square compartments, each containing figures representing deities, and priests in the act of offering or immolating victims. On all the walls, columns, ceiling, or architraves, 55there is nowhere a space of two feet, that is not covered with some figures of human beings, animals, plants, emblems of agriculture, or of religious ceremony. Wherever the eyes turn, wherever the attention is fixed, every thing inspires respect and veneration, heightened by the solitary situation of this temple, which adds to the attraction of these splendid recesses. The inner apartments are much the same as the portico, all covered with figures in basso relievo, to which the light enters through small holes in the walls: the sanctuary itself is quite dark. In the corner of it I found the door, which leads to the roof by a staircase, the walls of which are also covered with figures in basso relievo. On the top of the temple the Arabs had built a village, I suppose to be the more elevated, and exposed to the air; but it is all in ruins, as no one now lives there. From the top I descended into some apartments on the east side of the temple. There I saw the famous zodiac on the ceiling. The circular form of this zodiac led me to suppose, in some measure, that this temple was built at a later period than the rest, as nothing like it is seen any where else. In the front of the edifice there is a propylæon, not inferior to the works in the temple; and, though partly fallen, it still shows its ancient 56grandeur. On the left, going from the portico, there is a small temple surrounded by columns. In the inside is a figure of Isis sitting with Orus in her lap, and other female figures, each with a child in her arms, are observable. The capitals of the columns are adorned with the figure of Typhon. The gallery or portico, that surrounds the temple, is filled up with rubbish to a great height, and walls of unburnt bricks have been raised from one column to another. Farther on, in a right line with the propylæon, are the remains of an hypæthral temple, which form a square of twelve columns, connected with each other by a wall, except at the doorway, which fronts the propylæon. The eastern wall of the great temple is richly adorned with figures in intaglio relevato: they are perfectly finished: the female figures are about four feet high, disposed in different compartments. Behind the temple is a small Egyptian building, quite detached from the large edifice; and from its construction I would venture to say, that it was the habitation of the priests. At some distance from the great temple are the foundations of another, not so large as the first. The propylæon is still standing in good preservation. My principal object did not permit me to stay here any longer; but I do not know that I ever 57quitted a place with so much regret and wish to remain.

When we again reached the Nile, the people of Dendera were assembled in great numbers, waiting our return from the ruins. On approaching them they surrounded my interpreter, and caught hold of him, some by the arms, others by the garments, and insisted that he should remain there, as he belonged to that village. The fact was, that at the time the French were there, a boy from that place went along with them; and, as our interpreter told them that he had been in the French army, they concluded he must be the same person; nor could we persuade them to the contrary. I was not willing to part with him, as I was but little acquainted with the Arabic language; but no reasoning with them would avail, and they were too numerous for him to escape from them. At last, I told them to call for the mother of the boy in question. To this they answered, that she lived at six miles distance, and they would not take the trouble to go and fetch her. Presently, however, they consented; but they would not release their supposed old friend from their hands, telling him he had been long enough among christian dogs. Some brought him milk and bread, others dates, others sugar-canes, &c. 58At length the desired old woman arrived, accompanied with another son; and, on her coming up to my interpreter, he addressed her in such a manner, that she soon acknowledged he did not belong to her.

We set off the same morning, and arrived in an hour at Kenneh. This place is well known for its trade with India through Cosseir, and as it is a halting-place for the Hadgees, is always well supplied with provisions. The Aga has under his command five hundred soldiers, to escort the caravan through the desert to Cosseir. The Bashaw sends supplies of wheat to his troops in Arabia, beside the usual trade in sugar and silk; and they bring coffee from Mocha, with cottons and Cashmire shawls of India manufacture. The Hadgees here take a stock of provision sufficient to last them as far as Mecca, and in the proper season the town is crowded with them from all parts. The camels for the caravans are furnished by the Ababdy, who make it a profitable business with the Hadgees. The best vessels for cooling water are met with in this town. The slaves that come from the upper country pay a duty of four dollars for a boy, two for a woman, and one for a man.

We continued our voyage, and arrived at 59Gamola on the 21st at night. On the 22d, we saw for the first time the ruins of great Thebes, and landed at Luxor. Here I beg the reader to observe, that but very imperfect ideas can be formed of the extensive ruins of Thebes, even from the accounts of the most skilful and accurate travellers. It is absolutely impossible to imagine the scene displayed, without seeing it. The most sublime ideas, that can be formed from the most magnificent specimens of our present architecture, would give a very incorrect picture of these ruins: for such is the difference, not only in magnitude, but in form, proportion, and construction, that even the pencil can convey but a faint idea of the whole. It appeared to me like entering a city of giants, who, after a long conflict, were all destroyed, leaving the ruins of their various temples as the only proofs of their former existence. The temple of Luxor presents to the traveller at once one of the most splendid groups of Egyptian grandeur. The extensive propylæon, with the two obelisks, and colossal statues in the front; the thick groups of enormous columns; the variety of apartments and the sanctuary it contains; the beautiful ornaments which adorn every part of the walls and columns, the battles on the propylæon, described by Mr. Hamilton; 60cause in the astonished traveller an oblivion of all that he has seen before. If his attention be attracted to the north side of Thebes by the towering remains that project a great height above the wood of palm-trees, he will gradually enter that forest-like assemblage of ruins of temples, columns, obelisks, colossi, sphynxes, portals, and an endless number of other astonishing objects, that will convince him at once of the impossibility of a description. On the west side of the Nile, still the traveller finds himself among wonders. The temples of Gournou, Memnonium, and Medinet Aboo, attest the extent of the great city on this side. The unrivalled colossal figures in the plains of Thebes, the number of tombs excavated in the rocks, those in the great valley of the kings, with their paintings, sculptures, mummies, sarcophagi, figures, &c. are all objects worthy of the admiration of the traveller; who will not fail to wonder how a nation, which was once so great as to erect these stupendous edifices, could so far fall into oblivion, that even their language and writing are totally unknown to us.

After having taken a cursory view of Luxor and Carnak, to which my curiosity led me on my landing, I crossed the Nile to the west, and proceeding straight to the Memnonium, I had 61to pass before the two colossal figures in the plain. I need not say, that I was struck with wonder. They are mutilated indeed, but their enormous size strikes the mind with admiration. The next object that met my view was the Memnonium. It stands elevated above the plain, which is annually inundated by the Nile. The water reaches quite to the propylæon; and, though this is considerably lower than the temple, I beg leave to observe, that it may be considered as one of the proofs, that the bed of the Nile has risen considerably higher since the Memnonium was erected; for it is not to be supposed that the Egyptians built the propylæon, which is the entrance to the temple, so low as not to be able to enter it when the water was at its height. There are other proofs of this opinion, which I shall have an opportunity of introducing in this volume. The groups of columns of that temple, and the views of the numerous tombs excavated in the high rock behind it, present a strange appearance to the eye. On my approaching these ruins, I was surprised at the sight of the great colossus of Memnon, or Sesostris, or Osymandias, or Phamenoph, or perhaps some other king of Egypt; for such are the various opinions of its origin, and so many names have been given to it, that at last it has no name at all. I can 62but say, that it must have been one of the most venerated statues of the Egyptians; for it would have required more labour to convey such a mass of granite from Assouan to Thebes, than to transport the obelisk, commonly known under the appellation of Pompey’s Pillar, to Alexandria.

As I entered these ruins, my first thought was to examine the colossal bust I had to take away. I found it near the remains of its body and chair, with its face upwards, and apparently smiling on me, at the thought of being taken to England. I must say, that my expectations were exceeded by its beauty, but not by its size. I observed, that it must have been absolutely the same statue as is mentioned by Norden, lying in his time with its face downwards, which must have been the cause of its preservation. I will not venture to assert who separated the bust from the rest of the body by an explosion, or by whom the bust has been turned face upwards. The place where it lay was nearly in a line with the side of the main gateway into the temple; and, as there is another colossal head near it, there may have been one on each side of the doorway, as they are to be seen at Luxor and Carnak.

All the implements brought from Cairo to 63the Memnonium consisted of fourteen poles, eight of which were employed in making a sort of car to lay the bust on, four ropes of palm leaves, and four rollers, without tackle of any sort. I selected a place in the porticoes; and, as our boat was too far off to go to sleep in it every night, I had all our things brought on shore, and made a dwelling house of the Memnonium. A small hut was formed of stones, and we were handsomely lodged. Mrs. Belzoni had by this time accustomed herself to travel, and was equally indifferent with myself about accommodations. I examined the road by which I was to take the bust to the Nile. As it appeared, that the season of the inundation was advancing very fast, all the lands which extend from the Memnonium to the water-side would have been covered in one month’s time; and the way at the foot of the mountain was very uneven, and in some parts ran over the ground to which the water reached, so that, unless the bust was drawn over those places before the inundation commenced, it would become impossible to effect it after, till the next summer; a delay which might have occasioned even still more difficulties than I had to encounter at that time; for I have reason to assert, that an intrigue 64was going on to prevent the removal of the head.

On the 24th of July, I went to the Cacheff of Erments to obtain an order to the Caimakan of Gournou and Agalta, to procure for me eighty Arabs, to assist in the removal of the young Memnon. He received me with that invariable politeness which is peculiar to the Turks, even when they do not mean in the slightest degree to comply with your wishes, and which often deceives a traveller, who only en passant takes coffee, smokes his pipe, and goes away. It is not so these people can be known. It requires an opportunity of dealing with them, and in matters in which their interest is concerned. There are exceptions among them, as there are among the Christians of Europe; and I often found myself deceived where I least expected it. The smooth-faced protestations of friendship and partiality for a person, whom they never saw before, is so common among them, that at last it becomes a matter of course; and no reliance is placed on it, except by those who are unacquainted with the customs of the country.

I presented the firman from the Defterdar at Siout. He received it reverently, and promised 65to do every thing in his power to get the Arabs to work; but observed that, at the present season, they were all occupied, and it would be better to wait till after the inundation of the Nile. I remarked, that I had seen a great many Arabs about the villages, who appeared perfectly idle, and who would be glad to gain something by being employed. “You are mistaken,” he replied, “for they would sooner starve than undertake a task so arduous as yours; since, to remove that stone, they must be helped by Mahomet, or they will never stir it the thickness of a thumb. Now, at the rise of the Nile, the Arabs of these banks are quite unoccupied, and that is the best time to employ them for such purposes.” The next objection was the Ramadan, which was just beginning; and the third, that he could not spare any Arabs, as they must work in the fields for the Bashaw, whose work could not be interrupted. I saw plainly, that I should have to encounter many difficulties, but I was determined to persist; and I told him, I should collect men myself, accompanied by my Janizary; and that all the Arabs I might find idle and willing to come, I should engage, according to the firman I had received from the Bashaw. “To-morrow,” he then replied, “I will send my brother to see if 66any men can be got.” I told him I relied on his word, and gave him to understand, that, if he behaved in a manner conformably to the orders of the Bashaw, he would receive a present accordingly; and, leaving my Janizary there, to conduct the men who might be procured for me to the Memnonium the next morning, I returned to Thebes.

The morning arrived, but no men appeared. I waited patiently till nine o’clock, and then mounted a camel, and went again to Erments. I gave my interpreter some powder, and about two pounds of raw coffee, to be produced when I should ask for them. I found the Cacheff occupied in giving directions to build a tomb for a Mahometan saint; but it was of no use to complain. I told him, therefore, that I came to drink coffee with him, and smoke a pipe. He was pleased, and we sat together on the divan. I pretended to be quite unconcerned about the removal of the colossus; and at a proper time I presented the powder and the coffee to him, with which he was much gratified. I then repeated to him, that, if he would obtain men for me, it would be much to his advantage; and if not, he would lose the chance of reward, and I should act accordingly. He promised again that, on the next morning, I should have 67the assistance I wanted, and gave me an order for the purpose. I returned to Gournou on the same evening, and sent the tiscarry, or order, to the Caimakan of the place, whose business it was to attend to it. This man was an old acquaintance of a certain collector of antiquities in Alexandria; and, as he had immediate command over the Fellahs, gave me much trouble. He had collected antiquities for this person for many years at Gournou, was married and settled there, so that I was by no means welcome to him. Agreeably to the order, he also promised, like his master, to furnish me with men: but again, on the 26th, not one appeared.

I then sent for him, and with an air of indifference, he told me, that men could not be procured that day, but he would do what he could on the morrow or next day: at the same time the Fellahs, who were idle, would have been glad to be employed, as they came by twenty at a time to see if permission were granted for them to work. The Cacheff, too, instead of sending the assistance he had promised from his part of the country, sent only a soldier, to inquire whether I still wanted it; and I replied, that, if he did not supply me with some men the next morning, I should write to Cairo. I knew, that writing to Cairo would have been 68to no purpose, for it would take a month before I could receive an answer, and then it would be too late, in consequence of the rising of the Nile. I tried in vain to persuade those Arabs whom I saw unemployed to work; but, though they were desirous of earning money, they dared not do so, without permission either from the Cacheff or the Caimakan.

To the Cacheff I now applied again, and at last on the 27th, he sent me a few men, but by no means sufficient for my purpose; yet, when others saw them at work, by permission they were easily persuaded to join the party. I arranged my men in a row, and agreed to give them thirty paras a day, which is equal to fourpence halfpenny English money, with which they were much pleased, as it was more by one half than they were accustomed to receive for their daily labour in the fields. The carpenter had made the car, and the first operation was to endeavour to place the bust on it. The Fellahs of Gournou, who were familiar with Caphany, as they named the colossus, were persuaded, that it could never be moved from the spot where it lay; and when they saw it moved, they all set up a shout. Though it was the effect of their own efforts, it was the devil, they said, that did it; and as they saw me taking notes, 69they concluded that it was done by means of a charm. The mode I adopted to place it on the car was very simple, for work of no other description could be executed by these people, as their utmost sagacity reaches only to pulling a rope, or sitting on the extremity of a lever as a counterpoise. By means of four levers I raised the bust, so as to leave a vacancy under it, to introduce the car; and, after it was slowly lodged on this, I had the car raised in the front, with the bust on it, so as to get one of the rollers underneath. I then had the same operation performed at the back, and the colossus was ready to be pulled up. I caused it to be well secured on the car, and the ropes so placed that the power might be divided. I stationed men with levers at each side of the car, to assist occasionally, if the colossus should be inclined to turn to either side. In this manner I kept it safe from falling. Lastly, I placed men in the front, distributing them equally at the four ropes, while others were ready to change the rollers alternately. Thus I succeeded in getting it removed the distance of several yards from its original place.

According to my instructions, I sent an Arab to Cairo with the intelligence, that the bust had begun its journey towards England. From the 70great heat of the day I was unwell at night, having never felt the sun so powerful before in my life. Being in the hottest season, the air was inflamed; and even at night the wind itself was extremely hot. The place I had chosen in the Memnonium was worse than any, as the whole mass of stones was so heated, that the hands could not be kept on it. In the course of time these places became familiar to me, as well as the climate; for I observed, three years after, that I was often on the same spot, and at the same season, without feeling the least inconvenience, or being sensible of the intense heat I had felt on my first arrival. When the Arabs found that they received money for the removal of a stone, they entertained the opinion, that it was filled with gold in the inside, and that a thing of such value should not be permitted to be taken away.

On the 28th we recommenced the work. The Arabs came pretty early, as they preferred to work in the morning, and rest in the middle of the day from twelve to two. This day we removed the bust out of the ruins of the Memnonium. To make room for it to pass, we had to break the bases of two columns. It was advanced about fifty yards out of the temple. In the evening I was very poorly: I went to rest, 71but my stomach refused any aliment. I began to be persuaded, that there is a great difference between travelling in a boat, with all that is wanted in it, and at leisure, and the undertaking of an operation, which required great exertions in directing a body of men, who in point of skill are no better than beasts, and to be exposed to the burning sun of that country from morning till night.

On the next day, the 29th, I found it impossible to stand on my legs, and postponed the work to the day following. I had all our household-furniture, beds, kitchen-pottery, and provisions, put on a camel, and returned to the boat, in hopes that the air might be cool at night; but I remained very ill the whole day, my stomach refusing to take almost any thing.