Volume 2 — PART. III. (continued 4)

After this we went into a small channel between this and another island, where we lay at anchor all night; early in the morning we saw a galley coming from the sea upon us. As soon as we saw her, before we could well discern her, because of the too great distance, we made all ready for our defence to resist her; but when she came nearer to us, and we found by her flags that she was our friend, we were at rest again, and discharged, when she went by us, three great guns to salute her according to the usual custom of the sea. When she was past by, we weighed our anchor also, and sailed to Curtzola, another island and town, towards Dalmatia, call’d Corcyra nigra, which is very strong, and formerly did belong to Ragusa, but now it is subjected to the Venetians. This we left on the left hand, and went towards another, now call’d Liesana, by Ptolomy call’d Pharia, which lay about fifty leagues nearer to us. This we did soon make, and arrived in the port on Christmass-eve, which is close by the town, so that one can look very pleasantly into the wide open place. In the morning early at the breaking of the day, those in the town discharged some great guns for joy, which were in the next church standing near to the harbour, according to their ancient custom on such great holy-days. When these had begun, those also that were upon the castle, which is very strong, and lieth close to the town walls up very high, did discharge some; after them, those also that were upon the six gallies, that arrived in the harbour after us, did the same; at length it came also to our turn, that lay at anchor in the harbour, as well the little as the great ones, whereof there was a great many; there it began to bounce and crackle, for in our ship we had sixteen great ones, and it made such a noise in the harbour, that one would have thought all the buildings fell over one another. This shooting also occasioned so great and thick a smoak, that we could hardly see one another. After dinner we went ashore to buy good new bread, instead of our worm-eaten biskets, whereof, God be thanked, we found enough, which did refresh us very much. In this time the Priest that was dangerously ill of the bloody flux, was so well recover’d of it, that he with his comrades went over to Ancona, to go from thence to Rome. After we had rode at anchor in this harbour for four days, by reason of bad weather, we weighed at length, and came away to the ancient and famous town Zara, by Ptolomy call’d Jadera, which is thought to be one hundred and fifty leagues. Between Liesana and Zara there lie abundance of small islands, where a great many pirates shelter themselves, that are call’d by a peculiar name Scacki. These sleep in the day time, and are here and there on high places, to take notice of the ships that go up and down, that they may fall upon them in the night, and take them at a disadvantage, so that it is very dangerous to ride there; and that so much the more, because the sea is hereabouts very narrow, by reason of the many islands that lie in it, wherefore the pilots must daily take care to get in good time into a port, where they may ride securely all night; nay, sometimes even the ships in the harbours are not secure from these Scacki or pirates, for so it happened that we were once in a port at anchor in our voyage, which although it was very well secured and strong, yet we were not secure there from the Scacki’s; as it had happened in this same harbour but a year before, to a ship called Cantarena, (which the Scacki did get into by night,) which came off greatly by the loss, so that they had great occasion to remember it; wherefore we divided ourselves into four parts, and so kept watch by turns all night long. While we thus kept watching, we saw them several times come in small boats, as if they were fisher-men, yet as I am informed, there are often forty, fifty and sixty men that lie hid in these small boats, and watch their opportunity to get near to the great ships, to board them, and enter upon them. Wherefore as soon as we saw that they would come to us, we cry’d out: Fuoco, fuoco, that is to say, Fire, to shoot off the guns at them; when they heard this, they presently answer’d: Amici, amici; that is to say, we are friends, and so they went away again. Now when we believed that we were escaped all danger, we got into a greater one by the oversight of our pilot; for when he had order to go to Zara, he did not obey this command, fearing that our ship-master would put him out there because of his ill behaviour, and take another in his room, wherefore that he might stay longer with us, he steered for the islands of Vergetes, thinking that because he could get over with gallies (whom he had all along generally served) he might also get over with a merchant-man (that was heavy laden, and so drew more water) safe and without any danger. But this did not succeed well, for when we sailed along between the islands, we lost the depth of water by degrees, and at last struck with a great cracking, so that we could expect nothing but shipwreck, which would of necessity have followed, if our rudder had not remained whole in this striking, and lifted up the poop of the ship, and so shoved the fore-part sidewards into the depth; to which success the swelling sails did not also contribute a little. So did God, our dear Lord, miraculously send that the ship, chiefly by the help of the rudder, which was at least three spans deeper in the water than the ship, got off and went on her way. Having escaped again this great misery and danger, we landed in another island, that was not far off; over-against which, on the side of Dalmatia, lieth the village Mortera, between two famous towns, viz. Zara and Sebernis, by Ptolemy called Ficum, on a mountain of this island, behind which lieth a good village, you may pleasantly see the whole situation, together with the confines of the Turks, very plainly; in this village we took up and lodged in it, until our sloop, that we had sent out to Zara for another and more expert pilot, came back again.

As soon as they arrived with the new pilot, we broke up again, embarked and sailed for Venice, whither we had about two hundred and fifty Italian leagues. When we came out before the castle of St Michael, which lieth in the sea over-against Zara on a high mountain, a north wind arose, with such a tempestuousness, that it had almost cast us towards Italy, had not our pilot (who knew the shores, and landing of ships, better than the former) done his best, and landed presently, which could not be done but with great might and labour, for we were bound to go against the wind, yet we accomplish’d it; which you may easily guess, for of those six gallies that met us in Liesena, but two could make our harbour (because they were not strong enough for the wind, altho’ they used their utmost force in rowing) the rest were forced to go back again, and shelter themselves behind the outward islands.

Into the same harbour was also just before us run in, to shun the ill weather, a yatcht, that had about eleven men on board; they did pump out the water that was run in, and dry their sails upon the land, by which we did conjecture that they also had not been in small danger. We did send some of our men on board of them to know who they were; and they answered us, That they had letters from the Great Sultan, to their masters the Venetians, concerning a peace that was agreed upon, which their envoy at Constantinople had sent by land to Cattaro, one of their towns, where they were delivered up to them, to carry them to Venice with all possible speed. After this great storm was over, we went on again in our voyage. By the way I saw nothing worth mentioning, but now and then a village, where sometimes, if convenient, we landed, and staid there all night. In one of them, I found a great deal of saffron, which was very like unto that of Vienna, both in look and goodness. So at length we came to the large and very-deep Gulph, Carnaro, by which within lieth the town Segna, where the Windy-country endeth, and the Hister-land beginneth. This Gulph is about an hundred miles long, and thirty broad, so that in clear weather one may see very well over it, but it is very dangerous to sail over it, and because of it’s great motion, it is easily discern’d from the sea from without; over this we came, God be thanked, very well, and landed at Rovigna, a small town situated on a high rock. This belongeth, as well as others thereabout, as Pola, Parentza, &c. to the Venetians, from whence to Venice we have still about an hundred miles. But being that it is very dangerous to go from thence with large and loaden ships to Venice, therefore that republic doth keep there always several experienced pilots (to prevent farther mischief) that do nothing else but conduct the ships that arrive in Histria safely thither. And these do not easily put off, unless they have very good mild and clear weather; which was the occasion that our ship did tarry there; so that we all, except the seamen which we left in the ship behind, went into a barge on the fourteenth day of January late, and went all night long to Venice, where we all safely arrived the fifteenth of the same month about noon.

At my arrival I met with some very good friends and acquaintance, with whom I stay’d for several days, to refresh and rest myself after the great hardships I had endur’d, and dangers I had passed. After they had made me very welcome, and shewn unto me all kindness and civility, and I had rested myself sufficiently, I resolved to travel with a Venetian post into Germany again; so we travell’d together from thence to Treviso, Trent, Botzan, Inspruck, Amberga, &c. (whereabouts I found my cousin Hans Widholtz, and George Hindermayer Botzen riding by him, who kept me all that night with them in their inn) so at length I arrived on the twelft day of February 1576, at Augsburg, my dear native country, to the great rejoycing of my dear parents and relations, which I found all in indifferent good health. I thank the Almighty, merciful and good God, that is one in his Essence, and three in Person, for all his mercies he hath bestow’d upon me, in all my great dangers and necessities, both by sea and land, for his dear Son Jesus Christ’s sake. Praise, glory, and thanks be unto him, for ever and ever. Amen.

End of Dr Rauwolff’s Travels.

A COLLECTION OF CURIOUS Travels and Voyages.

VOL. II.

CONTAINING OBSERVATIONS MADE By several Learned and Famous MEN, In their Journeys thro’ the Levant.

VIZ. The ISLE of Candy, Greece, Ægypt, Asia minor, &c.

By Mons. Belon, Prosper Alpinus, Dr Huntingdon, Mr Vernon, Sir George Wheeler, Dr Smith, Mr Greaves, Father Vansleb, and others.

To which are added, Two Itineraries to Mecca, and into Æthiopia.

A COLLECTION OF CURIOUS Travels and Voyages.