Volume 2 — PART. II. (continued 2)

After we had passed through the great desarts, and began to come pretty near unto Ana, our master landed early in the evening in a very pleasant place which was about a league and a half on this side of the town where we staid all night; for the river is very dangerous to navigate because of it’s swift current and some rocks that lie between the mountains. This place was so pleasant by reason of it’s fruitful trees, viz. olive trees, orange, citron, limon, pomegranate, and chiefly date trees, that the like I had not seen before in my travels, and hard by it was a very thick wood of date trees, whereinto I went with some of our company, and found so great a quantity of fruit that they did not esteem them at all, and among them we found two new sorts different from them that use to be brought to us in our countries, viz. quite red, and yellow ones, by Serapio called Hayron, in his 69th chapter; which although something less than ours, yet are very good, and of a delicate taste.

The next morning we recommended the ship to the master, and walked (the ship being pretty well laden) to the town. By the way we found concerning fruitfulness so great a difference, that we could really say, we were come from the barren and desolated Arabia (which hitherto had continued from Dir, nay very near from Aleppo) into the well cultivated and fruitful one. For just in the very entrance there appeared fields sown with cotton, which was as tender and woolly, as one could any where find: Then delicate fields of corn which grew very high, and was full ripe, and fit to be cut down: Then trees that stood round about full of fruit, so that we had a very pleasant walk to the town. In this way I saw no strange plants at all, only in the corn the Moluchi of the Arabians, whereof I have made mention before, which is esteemed to be the Corcorum Plinii; and also another, which because of it’s height is easily seen; this is very like unto the Sesamum, only that the stalk is longer and fatter, the leaves are rougher, and the uppermost ones are cut in three different ones, which is not to be seen in the uppermost leaves of the Sesamum, the leaves whereof are more like unto willow leaves both in length and colour: Between the leaves that stand singly about the stalk one above the other, sprout out stately flowers, which are yellow without, and intermix’d with red veins, and of a purple brown colour within, and have a long style or pointel in the middle thereof; when these are fallen off, there grow long pods out of them, about a finger long and thin, which are hairy without, pointed towards the top, and have five distinctions within, wherein the seeds are contained (which are very like unto the sort of malva that is called Abutilon) and are placed in good order one above the other. I did very much enquire after this plant, but they know no other name for it, but Lubie Endigi, that is, Indian kidney-beans: But according to my knowledge, I rather take it to be the Trionum, whereof Theophrastus maketh mention in several places.

The town Ana is by the Euphrates divided into two parts, or rather into two towns, whereof the one is not very big, and subject to the Turk, and is very well guarded with old walls, and so surrounded by the river, that you cannot go into it but by boats, but the other that lieth on this side belongeth to the King of Arabia, is very great, and very ill provided with walls and ditches, so that you may go in and out by night, as in all other towns belonging to him. This, and also the whole province, is called Gimel, and is fifteen days journey distant from Aleppo, and goeth down a great way the river, so that we had a good hour to go before we came to the house of our master, which was near the harbour, where our ship did lie. The houses are built with brick and stone walls, and very well done; and we could hardly see one on either side but what had a garden to it, planted with dates, lemon, citron and pomegranate trees, with delicate fruit in it. At the other side on left in Mesopotamia, I saw nothing but some summer houses standing about the hills. By the way before we came to Ana, I observed very well that some of our company (to whom I was by an outlandish man recommended) left me, and began to contrive with the master, who was born in that town, to accuse me by a second hand, that they might not be seen in it, as a spy before the magistrates, pretending that I observed all towns and places accurately, and had a mind to betray them at my opportunity; which they chiefly did to frighten me, and so to get the sooner some good booty out of me. In order whereunto, some of them went to the Sub-Bashaw, and obtained presently of him to send one of his servants with them, which came to me in the long street, having some iron chains and fetters in his hands, which he let hang down upon the ground, and led me along; so that I presently understood that they had an ill intention against me, which they intended to execute. So I went along with him to see what they would do with me; when they came to the harbour, they gave me leave to go into the ship, and to stay there until I heard more of them. So they soon agreed together, and told me, chiefly one of them that was on horseback in a long furr’d coat, that if I would be at liberty, I must pay to the Sub-Bashaw 500 ducats. When I was considering these things, and saw myself also quite left alone, and their demands so extraordinary unreasonable, and found myself in this great necessity and danger, it came into my mind, that there was another magistrate in the other town Ana, at the other side of the river, which was a Turkish one, to whom I would make my complaint of their unjust and unreasonable imposition, to see whether I might not find help and assistance of them; wherefore I provided myself with my pass, and fitted myself so in cloaths that I might be able to swim, so that if they should assault me to take hold of me, I might soon make my escape over the river without any opposition or hindrance. At length, when they expected my answer, and the money, I told them my intention plainly and clearly, which put them into greater fright and fear than they had put me in before. Wherefore they gave over their unjust demands, and desired of the 500 ducats no more but a single one, which they were forced to give to the servant of the Sub-Bashaw for the pains he had taken.

CHAP. VI.

Which way we travelled from Ana farther to old Babylon, by some ancient towns called Hadidt, Juppe, Idt, and saw more pleasant, fruitful and well cultivated fields on each side than before.

After the designed storm that should have befallen me was over, and I by the power of the almighty God delivered, as it hath pleased him to do with a great many more, which would be too long to relate all here, we immediately departed from thence on the 15th of October. A little below it we found a fruitful and well cultivated country, and some fine houses standing here and there so near together, that before we passed one we could see another, which had also their orchards and kitchen gardens, and round about them fine woods of date trees and many others, which I could not discern because it was too far off; so that we found a great alteration, and our wilderness, wherein chiefly at a distance from the river, we hardly saw a tree in a whole day, changed at the lower end of the town into a fertile soil: Wherefore our voyage was very pleasant to us, for we had also less danger to fear from the Arabians. But our master was very much troubled, because the river was often stopp’d up at the sides with great stones that made the river swell, for there was a great number of large and high water engines or wheels, therefore these stones were laid to lead the stream to them to make them work, for it often happened that two of them stood close together, which took up so much of the river, that we had hardly room to pass by them in the middle of the stream, wherefore he was forced to have great care, to find the right way where he might pass without danger. The reason why these water-wheels are so much in use is, because this river doth not over flow (as the river Nilus) to water the grounds, neither doth it rain enough here sufficiently to moisten the seeds and garden-plants, that they be not burnt by the great heat of the sun, wherefore they must look out for such means, as will supply this want. To do this they erect water-wheels (whereof three or four stand behind one another) in the river, which go night and day, and dip up water out of the river, which is emptied into peculiar canals, that are prepared on purpose, to water all the ground. But if the places lie not conveniently, or the shore be too high to erect such wheels, they make instead of them bridges and peculiar engines, that are turned by a couple of bullocks, to bring the water up, with great leathern buckets, which are wide at top and narrow at bottom. This land being so fruitful, we soon found, to our great pleasure, great quantities of delicate fruit, sold for a small matter of money, and among the rest chiefly Indian musk-melons, that were very well tasted.

When we came farther we had generally even ground at both sides, and not a few fields, the most part whereof were sown with Indian Millet, for they sow more of this than of wheat or barley, for the land is pretty deep, wherein the corn would not grow so well. This Millet was just fit to be cut down, and in some places they had it in already. It shoots up into a high stalk about six, seven, or eight cubits high, the leaves thereof are like unto the Indian corn, or sugar-reeds, which I took it for at first, and that because the inhabitants did chaw it as well as the sugar-canes, because of the sweet and pleasant juice (which is more in the upper part of the cane, whereas that of the sugar-canes, is more in the lower) which they draw out of it, untill I saw at length their white hairy tops sprout out, which are large and not unlike to the Italian Millet. These are full of whitish grains each of which sticks between two broad flying leaves, of the bigness of those of the Orabus, yet somewhat more compressed at the sides. Hereof they bake very well-tasted bread and cakes, and some of them are rowled very thin, and laid together like unto a letter, so that they are about four inches broad, six long, and two thick; they are of an ashen colour. The inhabitants call it still at this day by it’s ancient Arabian name Dora, whereof Rhasis maketh mention. He that will may read more of it in authors.

Our voyage went on very well; wherefore the Merchants began several pastimes, some did play at a play called the Eighteenth, and others played at Chess, in which two games they were very well versed; others spent their time in reading and singing. Among the rest there was a Merchant from Balsara, that sung out of his Koran (which was put into rhymes in the common Arabick) several times with a loud and delicate voice; so that I took great delight in hearing him. Yet they were not so hot in their gaming or jesting, that they should therefore forget the hour of their prayers, chiefly their divines that were in orders, which used to call them out with a loud voice, at the usual hour, either in the ship, or without in the desarts, if they could have convenient time and opportunity. But among the Persians I found a greater zeal and earnestness, than among the Turks or Moors, all which nations have notwithstanding the same ceremonies in their prayers. For as they have chiefly five hours of praying, whereof three are in the day-time; viz. the first about noon, the second about three, and the third when the sun begins to set; the two others in the night, one in the morning an hour and half before the sun riseth, and the second after sun set when the firmament begins to look white and the stars to appear: So the Persians would not be hindered, by the darkness of the night, danger of the place, inconveniency of the time, to go out, when the others were asleep, on the ground in the island where we were landed, and say their prayers with such an earnestness and devotion, as I have often seen it, that the tears run out of their eyes: I must also needs say that they keep closer and stricter to their laws than almost any other nation, which forbid them to drink wine, and command them to live in poverty, and to watch and pray continually.

The eighteenth day of October we came early to Hadidt, a pretty large, yet anciently built, town, belonging to the King of Arabia, which is also divided into two towns by the river Euphrates, like unto Ana, whereof the greater part lieth on this side of the river. Here the master payed for his ship two Sayet (one whereof is about three pence in our country) to the customers, and so set sail again, to try whether he could reach that night to Juppe. And he did oftner than ever before, speak to his men to pull on (chiefly where the river in it’s breadth and depth was almost like unto the sea) so that at night pretty late we arrived at Juppe, a pleasant and well built town belonging to the Turks, and it is also divided into two parts, whereof one lieth in the middle of the river on a high ground, at the top whereof is a fortress, so that the town is pretty well defended: The other (which is rather bigger) lieth on the left in Mesopotamia, wherein are many fine orchards belonging to the houses, full of high date-trees, &c. wherefore the Merchants spent half a day there to buy dates, almonds, and figs to carry with them into the inns; the same they did at Idt another great town of the Turks, on the right-hand of the Euphrates situate on a high ground, where we arrived on the 20th of October at night in very good time, and gave them instead thereof soap-balls, knives, and paper, &c. After which goods they have often enquired of us; and we have given them sometimes some sheets of white paper, which they received with great joy, and returned us many thanks for them.

After our Merchants had sufficiently stored themselves with these goods, and our master had pay’d the duty for his two ships, he put off about noon on the 21st of October and went away. About the evening we saw at this side of the river a mill, and also the next day another, whereby were several old walls, doors and arches, &c. whereby I conjecture that formerly there stood a town. These two mills, as I was informed, were two powder-mills that make gun-powder for the Turkish Emperor, and send it to him in caravans, together with other merchandizes through the dominions of the King of Arabia, wherefore he must as well as other Merchants, pay duty (for that liberty) and toll or custom. The gun-powder is not made from salt-peter, as our is, but out of another juice, which they take from a tree that is reckon’d to be a kind of willow; known to the Persians by the name of Fer, and to the Arabians by Garb, as I have mentioned above. Besides this they take the small twigs of these trees together with the leaves, and burn them to powder, which they put into water to separate the salt from it, and so make gun-powder thereof, yet this is nothing near so strong as ours. Pliny chiefly testifieth this in his 31st book and 10th chapter, where he saith that in former days they have made Niter of oak-trees, (which certainly he hath taken these to be, for they are pretty like oaks) but that it hath been given over long before now. Which is very probable, chiefly because the consumption thereof was not so great, before they found out guns, as it is now since they have been found out.

Further on the water-side, on the high banks, I saw an innumerable many coloquints grow and hang down, which at a distance I could not well know, until they called them by their ancient Arabick name Handbel, whereby they still to this day are known to the inhabitants. After we had navigated a great way several days one after another, through even grounds, and in a good road, we arrived at length on the 24th day of October, at night, near to Felugo or Elugo, a little village called so, and with it the whole province.

CHAP. VII.

Of old Babylon the metropolis of Chaldee, and it’s situation, and how it is still to this day, after it’s terrible desolation to be seen, with the tower or turret, and the old ruined walls, lying in the dust.

The village Elugo lyeth on the place where formerly old Babylon, the metropolis of Chaldee, did stand; the harbour lyeth a quarter of a league off, whereinto those use to go, that intend to travel by land, to the famous trading city of Bagdet, (which is situated farther to the east on the river Tygris, at a day and a half’s distance). At this harbour is the place where the old town of Babylon did stand, but at this time there is not a house to be seen, whereinto we could go with our goods and stay till our departure. We were also forced to unload our merchandises into an open place, as if we had been in the midst of the desarts, and to pay toll under the open sky, which belongeth to the Turks. This country is so dry and barren, that it cannot be tilled, and so bare, that I should have doubted very much, whether this potent and powerful city (which once was the most stately and famous one of the world, situated in the pleasant and fruitful country of Sinar) did stand there if I should not have known it by it’s situation, and several ancient and delicate antiquities that still are standing hereabouts in great desolation. First by the old bridge, which was laid over the Euphrates (which also is called Sud by the prophet Baruch in his first chapter) whereof there are some pieces and arches still remaining, and to be seen at this very day a little above where we landed. These arches are built of burnt brick, and so strong, that it is admirable; and that so much the more, because all along the river as we came from Bir, where the river is a great deal smaller, we saw never a bridge, wherefore I say it is admirable which way they could build a bridge here, where the river is at least half a league broad, and very deep besides. Near the bridge are several heaps of Babylonian pitch, to pitch ships withal, which is in some places grown so hard, that you may walk over it, but in others that which hath been lately brought thither is so soft, that you may see every step you make in it. Something farther; just before the village Elugo, is the hill whereon the castle did stand in a plain, whereon you may still see some ruins of the fortification, which is quite demolished and uninhabited: Behind it pretty near to it, did stand the tower of Babylon, which the children of Noah (who first inhabited these countries after the deluge) began to build up unto heaven; this we see still, and it is half a league in diameter, but it is so mightily ruined, and low, and so full of vermin that hath bored holes through it, that one may not come near it within half a mile, but only in two months in the winter, when they come not out of their holes. Among these Insects, there are chiefly some, in the Persian language called Eglo by the inhabitants, that are very poisonous; they are (as others told me) bigger than our lizards, and have[2] three heads, and on their back several spots of several colours, which have not only taken possession of the tower, but also of the castle (which is not very high) and the spring-well, that is just underneath it, so that they cannot live upon the hill, nor dare not drink of the water (which is wholesome for the lambs.) This is Romance.

From this tower, at two leagues distance eastward, lieth the strong town Traxt, which was formerly call’d Apamia, mention’d by Pliny in book VI. chap. 26, 27, between the Tygris and Euphrates, those two great rivers of Paradise, whereof is made mention in the second chapter of Genesis; which two rivers not far below it meet together, and are there united. The town Traxt is surrounded with ditches, and very well defended by two strong citadels, that lie on each side thereof, so that it is as it were, a key and doorway into the kingdom of Persia, to which it doth also belong, as others not far from thence, viz. Orthox, Laigen, which lie on the road towards Media; and also Goa, which lieth a league and an half at the other side of the Tygris, and Axt, two leagues farther still, in the way to Persia.

The next day, being the 25th of October, we spent in bespeaking of camels and asses to load our goods upon, and after we were quite ready, we broke up the day following early in the morning with the whole caravan, to travel to Bagdat. In the beginning the ways were very rough, by the stones and ruins that lie still from thence dispersed. But after we were passed the castle and also the town of Daniel, the dry desarts began again, where nothing was to be seen but thorns, neither men nor beasts, neither caves nor tents, so that a man that knoweth the ways never so well, hath enough to do to find them through it, which I did often observe in our guide or Caliphi, who did several times, because there was neither way nor mark neither of men nor beasts to be found, very much doubt which way to turn himself, and so he did more than once turn sometimes toward one, than towards the other side the whole caravan. By the way we saw in the plain many large, ancient, high, and stately buildings, arches, and turrets standing in the sand, which is very fine, and lieth close together, as you find it in the valleys, here and there, whereof many were decay’d and lay in ruins; some to look upon were pretty entire, very strong, adorn’d with artificial works, so that they were very well worth being more narrowly look’d into. Thus they stand solitary and desolated, save only the steeple of Daniel, which is intire, built of black stones, and is inhabited still unto this day; this is in height and building something like unto our steeple of the Holy Cross church, or of St Maurice in Augsburg; on which as it stands by itself, you may see all the ruins of the old Babylonian tower, the castle-hill, together with the stately buildings, and the whole situation of the old town very exactly.

After we had travell’d for twelve hours through desolate places, very hard, so that our camels and asses began to be tired under their heavy burdens, we rested and lodged ourselves near to an ascent, we and our beasts, to refresh ourselves, and so to stay there till night, and to break up again in the middle thereof, that we might come to Bagdat before sun-rising. The mean while, when we were lodged there, I consider’d and view’d this ascent, and found that there was two behind one another, distinguish’d by a ditch, and extending themselves like unto two parallel walls a great way about, and that they were open in some places, where one might go through like gates; wherefore I believe that they were the walls of the old town, whereof Pliny says that they were two hundred foot high, and fifty broad, that went about there, and that the places where they were open, have been anciently the gates of that town, whereof there were a hundred iron ones; and this the rather, because I saw in some places under the sand, wherewith the two ascents were almost cover’d, the old wall plainly appear. So we found ourselves to be just lodged without the walls of that formerly so famous kingly city, which now with it’s magnificent and glorious buildings, is quite desolated and lieth in the dust, so that every one that passeth through it, in regard of them, hath great reason to admire with astonishment, when he considers, that this city, which hath been so glorious an one, and in which the greatest monarchs and kings that ever were (Nimrod, Belus, and after him King Merodach and his posterity to Balthasar the last) have had their seats and habitations, is now reduced to such a desolation and wilderness, that the very shepherds cannot abide to fix their tents there to inhabit it. So that here is a most terrible example to all impious and haughty tyrants, shewn in Babylon, which may be sure, that if they do not give over in time, and leave their tyranny, ceasing to persecute the innocent with war, sword, prison, and all other cruel and inhuman plagues, as these did the people of God the Israelites, that God the Almighty will also come upon them, and for their transgressions punish them in his anger, for God is a jealous God, that at long run, will not endure the pride of tyrants, nor leave unpunish’d the potentates that afflict his people; wherefore be sure, he will also in them verify the prophecies which he had utter’d by the Prophet Isaiah, in his thirteenth chapter, and Jeremiah in the fifty first, against those insolent and haughty Babylonians.

As I passed by, I found some thorns growing in the sand, viz. the Acacia, call’d Agul, whereon, chiefly in Persia, the Manna falls, whereof I have made mention before: Above all I found in great plenty some strange kinds of Cali of Serapio, of Coloquints. When evening fell in, and the night did approach, our mockeries that drove the asses, made themselves ready again for our journey; who kept every thing together, in good order, and were so quick in loading and unloading, that they were ready in less than a quarter of an hour. By the way I saw again several antiquities, but the night falling in I lost them; so we went on a-pace in darkness, so that we did arrive at Bagdat, by some call’d Baldac, two hours before day. In the morning, which was the twenty seventh of October, I and one of my comrades took our lodging at an eminent Merchant’s house, that belonged to Aleppo, and was lately come from the Indies; he received us kindly, and very readily, and kept us for four days, when we took a shop in the great camp of the Turkish Bashaw, in the other town, on the other side of the Tygris, which we went into.

CHAP. VIII.

Of the famous city of Bagdat, called Baldac; of it’s situation, strange plants, great traffic, and Merchants of several nations that live there, together with several other things I saw and did learn at my departing.

The town Bagdat, belonging to the Turkish Emperor, is situated on the most easterly part of his dominions, on the rapid river Tygris, and the confines of Persia, in a large plain, almost like unto Basiel on the Rhine, it is divided into two parts, which are rather bigger than Basiel, but nothing near so pleasant, nor so well built, for the streets thereof are pretty narrow, and many houses so miserably built that some of them are down to the first story, and others lie quite in ruins. The case is the same with the churches, which for age look black, and are so much decay’d, that you shall hardly find a whole one; whereon are still several old Arabian, or rather Chaldean inscriptions to be seen, cut out in stone, by the means whereof many antiquities of the town might have been truly explain’d, but I could not only not read them, but could get no body that could interpret them to me. These are some buildings that are worth seeing, as the camp of the Turkish Bashaw, and the great Batzar or Exchange beyond the river in the other town, and the Baths which are not to be compared with those of Aleppo and Tripoli, for they are at the bottom and on the walls done over with pitch, which maketh them so black and dark, that even in the day time, you have but little light. There being two towns, one of them which lieth on this side is quite open, so that you may go in and out by night without any molestation; wherefore it should rather be call’d a village great than a town; but the other that lieth towards Persia on the confines of Assyria, is very well fortifieth with walls and ditches, chiefly towards the Tygris, where there are also some towers, two whereof are within by the gates that lead towards the water side, to guard them, and between them are the old high walls of the town, whereon on the top are stately writings, with golden letters, each whereof is about a foot long, to be seen; the true meaning thereof I would fain have learned, but for want of understanding and interpreters, I could not obtain it, but was forced to go without it. Near unto it there is a bridge made of boats, that reacheth over the Tygris into the other town, which in that place is about as broad as the Rhine is at Strasburg, and because of it’s rapid stream so dark and dull, that it is a dismal sight to look upon it, and may easily turn a man’s head and make him giddy. This river runneth not much below the town into the Euphrates, and so they run mixt together into the Persian gulf, by the town Balsara, which is six days journey distance from thence eastwards. These two towns as is said, at the river Tygris, were many years agone built out of the ruinated city of Babylon, whereof the one on the other side of the river is accounted to be the town of Seleucia of Babylon, and that on this side, which is more like unto an open village, is believed to be the town Ctesiphonta. Strabo, in book XV, doth testify this, when he writes thus of them: That Babylon hath formerly been the metropolis of Assyria, and that after it’s devastation, the town of Seleucia, situated upon the Tygris, near which was a great village, wherein the king of the Parthians did keep his residence for the winter. Pliny maketh also mention thereof in his sixth book, and in the twenty sixth and twenty seventh chapter, viz. That the two towns of Seleucia of Babylon, and Ctesiphonta, were built out of the ruins of the old city, and that the river Tygris runs between them. In the town Seleucia, stands in a large place, the castle, which is without guarded neither with walls nor ditches, nor is quite finish’d within. Before it lie some pieces of ordnance in the road, which are so daubed with dirt, that they are almost quite covered. In it dwelleth the Turkish Bashaw, who, when he understood that two strangers were come into his camp, sent for us, and had us before him by his men; along with us went freely an Armenian, whom we had known formerly at Aleppo, to assist us, and to be our interpreter, to give the Bashaw a good and sufficient account of us.

When we came into the room of the Bashaw, which was but very ordinary, yet spread with delicate tapestry and well adorned, and appeared with accustom’d reverences, he ask’d us, sitting in his costly yellow colour’d long gown, by one of his servants, in French, which he did not understand very well, from what places we came, what merchandizes we had brought with us, and whither we intended to go. After we had punctually answered him to each question, yet he was not satisfy’d, but bid us to withdraw, and stay until we heard his answer. We understood his meaning very well, that it was only to scrue a present out of us, yet we would not understand it, but shew’d him our pass, subscrib’d both by the Bashaw and the Cadi of Aleppo, to try whether that would give him content. So he took it and read it over, and look’d very diligently upon their seals, as they use to seal, after they had dipp’d it first into ink, so that all but the letter is black. When he found them right, and did not know any more to say to us, he let us go, then we made him his reverence again, and so we went backwards out of his lodgings, for if you turn your back to any one, altho’ it be a far meaner person, they take it as a great uncivility, rudeness, and disparagement. This Bashaw keeps a great garrison in the town of Bagdat, because it lieth on the confines of Susiana, Media, &c. which are provinces belonging to the King of Persia, and the Grand Signior hath nothing more towards the east of it to command. His greatest dominions are the wildernesses of the desart of Arabia, whereof the Turk hath one part, but the other, and the biggest, belongs to the King of Arabia. After the Bashaw had given us leave to go, we went to our lodgings again, and bought by the way in the Batzar some provision to eat, and to boil for supper, for in these countries are no inns to be found, whereinto one may go, and find a dinner ready prepared for chance-customers, as in our country is done, except one would go into a cook’s shop, whereof there are a great many in the Batzars; but every one boileth for himself what he hath a mind to, without doors, before his lodgings, where there is a chimney for that purpose; so that in the morning, and at night when it is time to eat, you see every where in the allies of the camp several fires. When we went to eat we were forced, because in these chambers is neither table, nor stools, nor bench, to sit down on the ground, and also lie upon it all night, so that our cloaks were very useful to us, to serve us instead of a bed, chiefly in the winter, to keep us warm; yet the winter is not very severe in those countries, which you may conclude, for that our March-flowers, Narcissus’s, Hyacinths, Violets, &c. were here full in flowers in the month of December; and that the farmers went to plough at that time; wherefore I judge that their winter is like unto our spring. When we lived at Bagdat, I found by our catering, that the scarcity was still very considerable, and it would have been more, and have increased, if the towns that lie above it on the Euphrates and Tygris, and chiefly Mossel, which formerly went by the name of Nineveh, had not sent them great supplies, as did also those of Carahemit, &c. which supply they have also almost always at any other time occasion for, for their cultivated grounds are chiefly in Mesopotamia, where they have almost none at all, so that there groweth not enough to maintain themselves; wherefore the two rivers are very necessary to them, not only to provide them with victuals, as corn, wine, fruit, &c. but also to bring to them all sorts of merchandizes, whereof many ship-loads are brought in daily. So that in this town there is a great deposition of merchandizes, by reason of it’s commodious situation, which are brought thither by sea as well as by land from several parts, chiefly from Natolia, Syria, Armenia, Constantinople, Aleppo, Damascus, &c. to carry them farther into the Indies, Persia, &c. So it happened that during the time I was there, on the second day of December, in 1574 there arrived twenty five ships with spice and other precious drugs here, which came over sea from the Indies, by the way of Ormutz to Balsara, a town belonging to the Grand Turk, situated on the frontiers, the farthest that he hath south-eastwards, within six days journey from hence, where they load their goods into small vessels, and so bring them to Bagdat, which journey, as some say, taketh them up forty days. Seeing that the passage both by water and land, belongeth both to the King of Arabia and Sophi of Persia, which also have their towns and forts on their confines, which might easily be stopt up by them, yet that notwithstanding all this they may keep good correspondence with one another, they keep pigeons, chiefly at Balsara, which in case of necessity might soon be sent back again with letters to Bagdat. When loaden ships arrive at Bagdat, the Merchant, chiefly those that bring spice, to carry through the desarts into Turky, have their peculiar places in the open fields without the town Ctesiphon, where each of them fixeth his tents, to put his spices underneath in sacks, to keep them there safe, until they have a mind to break up in whole caravans; so that at a distance one would rather believe that Soldiers were lodged in them, than Merchants; and rather look for arms than marchandizes: And so I thought myself before I came so near that I could smell them.

Some of these Merchants that came with the same ships, came directly to our camp, and among the rest a Jeweller, who brought with him several precious stones, viz. Diamonds, Chalcedonies, which make incomparable hafts to daggers, Rubies, Topazes, Saphires, &c. the two first whereof he had procured in Camboya, and most of the rest in the island of Zeylan, whereof he shew’d us several very fine ones. The Merchants bring these along with them in great caravans, and keep them very close and private, that they may not be found out, at the custom-houses and be taken away from them which the Bashaws do constantly endeavour with all their might and power. For the Turks do not love that precious stones should cost them money, for they are extraordinarily covetous, wherefore you find but a few among them, but if they can have them without cost, after the aforesaid manner they love them dearly, and keep them in great esteem. In the room of them other stones are sent into the Indies again, Corals, Emeralds (which are bought best in Egypt) Saffron, Chermes-berries, and several sorts of fruit, as Cibebs, Dates, (which are so pliable and soft that you may pack them together in great lumps as they do Tamarinds) Figs, Almonds, and many others which I cannot now remember, and also several sorts of silks and Turkish handkerchiefs: But above all, fine horses, whereof they send abundance into the Indies by the way of Persia, but more by the way of Ormutz, wherefore the King of Portugal received yearly a good sum of money for custom, viz. forty ducats for each, which the Merchants pay very freely, because that those that import horses (as I am informed) pay but half duty for their other goods at the custom-houses, and sell them besides with good profit. Some of these horses are also sent (because of their beauty and goodness) into Syria, Natolia, and to us into Europe, where they are sold or presented to Princes, and other great persons of quality. They feed their horses in these countries chiefly with barly and straw, so as it is broke by their threshing waggons, which they hang about their heads in sacks, as they do also about asses, rather than give it them in mangers as we do. For want of straw they sometimes litter them with a fine loose earth, which they afterwards throw by in heaps to make it clean again to serve another time. When, among other Merchants, Christians arrive from our countries at Ormutz, which happen’d very seldom, all those of them that have been any ways afflicted by the Turks, Arabians, or Jews, must appear before some certain officers of the King of Portugal, appointed for that purpose, and make their complaints to them, of what hath happen’d to them, or what damage they have received; and in case they should omit any thing, they are themselves severely punish’d. If then it appeareth, that one of them hath been cheated of his money, immediately some Merchants of the same nation although innocent, and knowing nothing of it, are flung into prison, where they must remain until they have made satisfaction to the utmost farthing, and are besides severely punish’d, for an example to others that they may take warning. But if a Christian should be murdered, and they come to know of it, then three or four of them, more or less, according to the manner of fact, must suffer and lose their lives for every Christians. From thence it cometh, when Merchants of many nations are going into a ship, in order to go to the Indies, by the way of Ormutz, where they must land upon penalty of confiscation of all their goods, that when first they put off, they look strangely upon one another, and take great notice of, or mind one another much, and say very little or nothing, not making themselves known, fearing that something may be had against them; and this endureth so long, until they are gone half the way, then they begin to be acquainted. Farther I understood, that the King of Portugal’s governor in the Indies hath already, (to make himself strong and the more able for a war) made several of the chiefest and powerfullest Indians knights or noblemen, to the number of 5000; and hath sent many Jesuits to reform these countries, to propagate their religion and to institute there the Spanish inquisition. The Indians are lank in body, brown in their colour, well shaped, and of a very good understanding; wherefore persons of quality, and Merchants love to buy them, and chuse them for their servants, being in their business very faithful, diligent and careful, as I have known many of them. These and many more nations, as Turks, Moors, Armenians, Curters, Medians, &c. which every one of them have their peculiar language, are at Bagdat in great numbers, but chiefly the Persians; so when I was there, there arrived a caravan of three hundred, with camels and horses, &c. with an intention to go to Mecca, to give Mahomet a visit, which they think, after Hali and Omar, who were his companions and did live in that city, to be a very great man. These Persians have a peculiar language, so much differing, that neither Turks nor Arabians, nor other Oriental nations can understand them, and so they are forced to make them understand their meaning by signs or an interpreter, as well as I and other strangers. They also have their peculiar characters. They sit well on horse-back, and have on long and white drawers, which serve them also for boots, and are very well furnish’d with scymeters, bows and darts: Instead of spurs, they have, as it is the fashion in those parts, pointed irons, which are about an inch and a half long, and are sowed to the hind part of their shoes. They are also call’d Red Turks, which I believe is, because they have behind on their turbants, red marks, as cotton ribbands, &c. with red brims, whereby they are sooner discerned from other nations. They may also be distinguish’d by their grey woollen coats, which have commonly three pleats behind, and come hardly down to their knees. They are a strong and valiant people, of a noble countenance and mind, very civil, and in their dealings upright. They are very wary in their undertakings, which you may see by this, that before they conclude a bargain, they take up more time to consider than others do two or three, which I have several times observed. Among other merchandizes they have delicate tapestry of several colours of cotton-work, in which they are great artists, and well skill’d, but as for others, as gold and silver working, &c. they understand little, and a great deal less of gilding, wherefore they take any thing that is glossy for gold. They love the Christians that are artists and ingenious in these sorts of works, and shew them all civilities. But as for the Turks, because great and bloody wars arise often between them, they hate them very much, and call them Heretics; 1. Because they will not esteem nor receive Hali and Omar, which they denominate Caliphi, as the greatest and highest Prophets or Legates of God, that have, after Mahomet, given more certain and better laws. Wherefore they esteem them a great deal higher; nay, worship them like Gods. 2. Because that they as circumcised men, esteem their women to be unclean, and reckon them to be members that are not to be saved, and therefore exclude them out of their churches, so that they may not appear there publickly, which by the Persians, according to their laws and ordinances, after they have spoke some words after them, are received as bless’d ones, and admitted to come to their churches. From whence arise between these two nations great quarrels and differences sometimes, but yet they do not fall upon one another, nor make incursions in time of peace, so violently on the frontiers, as they do in Hungary; probably that one may (because negotiation goeth farther into Persia, and bringeth in great custom to the Grand Signior) trade the safer into these parts. It is cheap and very good travelling through these countries into the Indies, and the customs and duties are very easy.

Farther I understood from others, that here and there in Persia live several Christians, and that most of them are of the perswasion of Prester-John, whom they call Amma; and which way they are brought to it, I am thus informed, that formerly about twelve years agone, it did happen that the King of Persia made a league with Prester-John against the Turks, which came then very hard upon him, and gave him his hands so full, that he was forced to seek for help by strangers. Now when Prester-John thought it very inconvenient for him to make a league with a King that was not of his religion, he sent him a message again, that he could make no league with him, except the chiefest of the articles were, that he and his subjects would receive his religion, then he would not only do him all friendship that in him lay, but also assist him with all his might and power, which at length was agreed upon. Whereupon he did send one of his patriarchs and some of his priests, which in process of time had this effect, that now even at this day, there are above twenty towns in Persia where the most of the inhabitants are addicted to the religion of Prester-John. They have also as I was told, several books of the holy scripture, and chiefly among the rest, some of the epistles of St Thomas, which they call Ærtisch. And besides that, their patriarch hath brought it to that pass, that they are no more so zealous in their superstitions; and are of opinion that circumcision is not necessary, and that so much the rather, because their enemies the Turks and Jews have it. And for the same reason they do not abhor the forbidden beasts, but eat pork, &c. nor refuse to drink wine, and that as before said, because their adversaries are forbid it by their law. So that the Christian faith doth in Persia encrease daily more and more, and they begin to be christened with fire, according to their fashion, and in the name of God the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost, whom they notwithstanding, according to their opinion, rather believe to be a creature, than the Third Person of the Trinity, and that he doth only proceed from the Father and not from the Son. But that those that are Christians may be discerned, they wear a blue cross on the inside of their left leg a little above the knee. They also administer the sacrament of the holy supper or communion, and give it as well to the young as to the old ones in both kinds; but before they go to it, they must have their feet washed, wherefore there are little rivulets led through the churches, where they sit down, and some of the chiefest of the town come to them and wash their feet, and when that is done, they give unto one another a kiss of love; then they read the words of Christ’s institution, and so go to receive it; they do not come to confession before: And they endure no images in their churches, but instead of them, they make use of harps, pipes and other instruments, wherewith they make music, but chiefly at the King’s court, at Smarcand (where his best Musicians are) which town, as they say, was built by Sem the son of Noah, and called after his name. What else is to be said concerning the points of their religion, shall be hereafter mentioned in the chapter of the Abissines.

Farther I was informed at my return, that after the decease of Gamach the King of Persia; that had three sons and one daughter (who was soon married to one of the chiefest of the council at court) whereof the eldest called Alschi was beheaded, because he did endeavour to take away his father’s crown, the other two are still in being; the youngest of them Balthasar liveth in Parsid a peculiar province and town in Persia, which lieth on the borders of the Indies; and the middlemost, called Ismael, was lately, after his father’s decease, elected King, almost at the same time when the now reigning Turkish Emperor Amurathes came to the crown. This is still young, and of a tall and slim body, but very manly, and full of courage, and well skill’d in all warlike exercises, so that he dare before any of his courtiers ride wild and unbroken horse, by them called Æcaik, which are not easily mastered. They are brought to him a great way off out of the eastern parts; they are as I am informed, of an ashen colour, only some have white legs; in these and other exercises he hath shown his manliness from his infancy. But when he did encrease in age and in strength, the anger and displeasure he bore against the Turks did increase also, and to that degree, that he resolved, during his father’s life, to be revenged of them for the wrong they had done to his ancestors. Wherefore a little while agone, he brought together a great many men in the frontier places to surprize the town of Bagdet unawares, being one of the chiefest that formerly had belonged to his ancestors, together with the whole country, wherein the new Kings of Persia when they first come to the government are used to be crowned. When he was thus prepared for the onsent, and nothing was wanting, some traitors ran away from his troops and acquainted the Bashaw of Bagdet with his design, so the Bashaw was forced to arm himself with all speed as well as he could, that he might be able to oppose him in his designs. But when the King’s son would have put his intention into execution, the Bashaw fell upon him unawares with such a number and strength, that he could not only attempt nothing, but was beaten, and he himself taken prisoner. Besides this, the Grand Turk would have had him to be beheaded, if his father had not with great earnestness taken his part, and given him for his ransom the town Orbs in Mesopotamia. After this, the old King had enough to do to keep his son in safe custody, that he might not begin new alarms and wars against the Turks.

Before I began my voyage in March, in the year 74; certain news came to Aleppo that 25000 Turks were killed on the confines of Persia and Arabia; but in what place this battle was fought, and which way it was done I could not learn (for if they suffer any damage, they always keep it very close and secret) nor any ways here: Wherefore the Turks at that time were a great deal harder towards the Christians, so that many suffered for their misfortunes sake: But if they had obtained the victory, as well as not, they would not have been so silent, but would have spread it abroad, and have related it to others that did not ask them, with high and big words. So great an opinion have the Turks of themselves, that they really believe there is no other nation that can conquer the world so as they, although they are not be compared with the Persians, neither for strength, manliness, nor shape; so therefore they could effect but very little against others, if it were not for their great number, wherewith they over power them. And to speak only of the inhabitants of this town, there are so many sick and lame people in it, that you would admire to see so many lame and limping ones in the streets; yet the King of Persia cannot hold out the war at length, nor keep a war at a great distance, for his revenue is not so great as to make sufficient provision for his officers and soldiers, &c. to pay them as well in time of peace as of war: For his subjects are freed from all taxes and impositions, according to their ancient privileges and customs. They never arm themselves for a defence, but when they are called together by their King, to defend and protect their country, house or land, wife and children, against the assault of an enemy.

When I was thus enquiring from one or other, and endeavouring to inform myself and learn whether it were more commodious for us two to go by water to Ormutz, or by land through Persia into the Indies, and we thought of nothing else but to begin our voyage daily to go farther; I was call’d on a sudden by a letter to come away for Aleppo immediately, which troubled me very much, and that the more when I considered, that I was past the wilderness and come into the fruitful eastern countries, which would have been very well worth seeing. So after I had considered a while, I agreed with my comrade that he should go on with the voyage in hand, and that I, because besides the letter, I had others no smaller hindrances, would go back again. So I fitted him out for his voyage with all necessaries, so that two days after, he went with other merchants into the ship for Balsara. Not long after, I had a very mournful message, or account, that the ship, wherein he went from Balsara to Ormutz, was perished in a great storm near the Island Baccharis in the Persian sea, where they find good store of oriental pearls, and that he and several other merchants, and rich merchants sons from Aleppo were drowned. At the same time I might have returned back again with a great caravan to Aleppo but because they took the straightest way through great and sandy desarts, which lasted for fifty days journey or thereabouts, where we had but two places to pay custom in, where we could buy provision, as water and other necessaries, I resolved within myself to go by more fruitful places, and famous towns (although I went about) where I might see and learn something more; so I did stay in the great Camp longer until I met with some companions. In the mean time, while I stayed there, I made my self acquainted with an eminent Merchant, that lived in Aleppo, and had been several times in the Indies; who told me, that the Jesuits had begun to set up a very severe inquisition in the Indies; chiefly in Goa, where they observed diligently those that did not take off their hats to the images (which were set up in several streets of the town) that they might put them into prison, which he did very much dislike, believing it to be very great idolatry.

After he had said this, he began to talk farther to me concerning religion, and chiefly of the articles of our Christian faith; and made me immediately (when he began to be sensible that I was of the same) so fine a confession of his Christian faith, so plainly and with such grounds of scripture, that I was astonished, for I could never have believed I could have met with the fellow of him in these countries. So he began to have a great love for me, and desired me to go along with him, and to stay with him in his house, until I had an opportunity to go farther, or that I might make him a companion in his voyage into the Indies, that during those travels he would shew me all kindnesses he could; nay, be as careful of me, as if I were his own son. And after he understood that I was a Physician, he proferred of his own accord to recommend me to the Bashaw, who was then sick, and his very good friend, to be his Physician. But I having understood before, that others that had done the same, had been but very ill rewarded for the pains and care they had taken, and chiefly by those they did cure; I would not undertake it, fearing I should have the same measure, and instead of a reward have my liberty taken away from me, wherefore I thanked him for his kindness. Had it not been for this, I should have accepted of it, notwithstanding that they have no Apothecaries shops that are any thing provided, but I must have bought the ingredients from one shop-keeper or other and so collected them from several places, for I could hardly find any thing by them, saving some strange sort of turpentine nuts, whereof they have abundance, and they are as good, as Pistachios; wherefore the inhabitants keep them by them, and eat them as we eat small nuts in our country. I have eaten several of them, and found them of a saltish taste and of a drying quality. These are called by the Arabians, Botn, and by the Persians, Terbaick. I have chiefly seen two kinds of them, the greater and the less, and so the Arabians distinguish them into Botnquibir and Sougier. The bigger is in shape pretty like unto the pistach nut, only it is a little rounder and shorter; the lesser is with it’s hard shell of the bigness of a pea, and are shaped like unto an hart, or the Dora, that is, the Indian-Hart. A great many of them grow in Agemia, Persia, Mesopotamia and Armenia, &c. and grow together in clusters like Grapes as the Pistachios do, or rather the Berries of our Turpentine-Trees, for which they ought to be taken; chiefly, because the trees whereon they grow, are in their long leaves pretty like unto the Turpentine-Tree whereby they are easily distinguished from the Pistachio-Tree which hath roundish ones. This being so, I take the little one for the Bell, and the great one for the Fael of Serapio, Avicenna and Rhasis, which (as authors say) grow chiefly in the Indies: And this the rather, because authors attribute the same virtue and operation to them. So may according to this, chiefly the great nuts Fael be taken for the fruit of the Indian Turpentine-Tree, whereof Theophrastus in his fourth book and chapter five, maketh mention; all which would be too tedious to be related here at large. Besides these nuts, the before-mentioned authors (chiefly Serapio in his 251st chapter) makes still mention of another sort of fruit, called by him Sel, and by Avicenna, Scal, which are not in hard shells, but as I saw them, quite bare, of the bigness of a Pistachio-nut, and of the colour of the kernel of our Wall-nut; they have a pretty bitterish taste, and sensibly sharp. I did find none of them in these parts by the shop-keepers, but had it only after that in the monastery of the Minorites in Jerusalem, of one of their order, who told me also that they did grow in these countries. Of coloquints, of white gourd apples, still known to the people by the old name Handhal, there grow so many hereabout, that they send them to Aleppo, and from thence into our countries; and also the delicate round Cyperus root, by the inhabitants called Soëdt, whereof one may find great quantities growing in mossy and wet grounds. I did also find by the shop-keepers, the white seed of Machaleb, which are in hard shells, which are long and pointed, and covered without with a tender skin, like unto the Pistachio-nut. A great quantity of them are carried from thence into Syria, and used to perfume soap-balls. The trees whereon they grow I did not see, yet, as I am informed, they grow hereabouts, but chiefly on the mountains that are by the way to Persia. They are still to this day by the inhabitants, as by Serapio, call’d Nahandt. But although there are several sorts of them, yet they all boil them (after they have been steep’d for some hours in water, to get off the thin shells, as we do with Almonds) in milk or wine into a pap, and put sugar or honey to it, chiefly to the white ones to take away their bitterness. I found farther a strange gum in great pieces, somewhat like unto Frankincense, or Ammoniacum, which the inhabitants chew all day long instead of Mastich, and they attribute the same virtues to it. Wherefore great quantities thereof are brought thither (chiefly from Persia) which they call Taxa, as I am informed from the Tree Tax, which are very like unto Cypresses in shew and bigness, only their roots are not so long, wherefore they are the easier over-turned by the wind. According to this, I remember of the Trees Thuja, whereof Theophrastus maketh mention in book v. chap. 5. and of Thya of Pliny. I also saw without the Batzars or Exchanges, very high and big Caper-trees; and here and there in the fields a peculiar sort of red-grass, like unto that of Babylon, according to the description of Dioscorides, and hath still retained it’s ancient Arabian name Negil among the inhabitants. This hath long fibrous and yellowish roots, with many joynts, and puts out by them yearly several buds, which grow into hard leaves, which are long and pointed, and at each side very sharp and cutting, like unto them of the red-grass; between them come out small stalks or holms, each whereof hath a peculiar ear at the top coming out of it’s grass sheath, which is long, thin, and it’s seeds grow in two rows, between small leaves, like unto the wild Galengal. This doth not only grow hereabouts, but also in several other places and provinces, where the ground is sandy, as Susiana, Persia, &c. in great quantity, and because it is by reason of it’s sharpness and cutting, very pernicious to beasts, as to bullocks, horses, &c. so that they die of it, therefore they have or keep the fewer of them, but instead thereof they keep buffles (which can feed upon it easier than other beasts) to eat this grass, which maketh the buffle very cheap in these countries, for I have seen one buy three of them for eight ducats (which is in our money about 48 Shillings) that was bigger than an Hungarian bullock. Thus much I had to relate of Bagdat, it’s situation, trade, and strange plants, so much as I could find and see at that improper time.

Being that I expected daily company to go with me to Aleppo again, by the way of several towns, and not straight through the sandy wildernesses, a Persian that I got acquainted withal in the mean while did inform me, that the Sophi, King of Persia, had several unicorns at Samarcand, which he kept there; and also in two islands Alc and Tylos, which lay from Samarcand nine days journey farther towards the east, near Spaam, some Griffins (by them called Alera) which were sent him out of Africa from Prester-John. They are a great deal bigger and higher, have a red coloured head, a bearded bill, and a neck over-grown with feathers, a thick body, black wings like unto an eagle, and a long tail like a lion, and feet like a dragon, they are very eager for flesh; while they are yet young, the King taketh them along with him, and goeth often thither for sport and pleasures sake; but as they grow up and strong, he hath them chained about their necks very strongly. I did believe this the sooner[3], because he could also tell me what trees and fruit grow there, and chiefly those whereof Theophrastus maketh mention, and out of him Pliny. He also gave me an account besides these of others that grow out of Persia in several places, as of the tree Palla, which Theophrastus and Pliny mention, which the wise men did eat in the eastern countries, and of the Musa of the Arabians, whereof the former bear delicate sweet-tasted, and very wholesome fruit, by them called Wac, which are round, reddish, and as big as the Indian Melons. But whether this be the noble fruit Mangas, (whereof Clusius maketh mention in his History of Indian Plants, which for goodness sake is carried over sea into Persia) I leave to the learned to decide. But the Musa (which is as aforesaid, also common in Syria) beareth a great deal smaller fruit, which is smooth, yellowish, and bended almost like unto citruls in shape. These are also of a sweetish taste, and therefore the pleasanter to eat; but are very unwholesome, so that Alexander the Great was forced to forbid his soldiers to eat of them. The same Persian, did also inform me of the poisonous fruit Persea, which is still known to them by the name of Sepha; which they esteem very little; and also the Peaches (called Het) which are not so poisonous (as some say) as the above-mentioned; for they esteem the kernels thereof to be good, wholesome physic. But yet that they are not esteemed by them, the chief reason is, that they perswade themselves, that Nimrod (who was a great Magician or Necromancer) poisoned them by his black-art, and that since that time, they could not be eaten; wherefore they have not been esteemed ever since: This I thought convenient to mention, rather for the sake of those, that have a mind to travel, that if one or more of them should go into these countries, they might have occasion to make a more accurate enquiry after these things.

CHAP. IX.

Which way I came in my return from Bagdat through Assyria, the confines of Persia, and the province of the Curters, to the town Carcuch, Capril, &c. and at length to the river Tygris, to Mossel, that famous town, which was formerly call’d Nineveh.

When hinder’d in my travels, for several weighty reasons, I was forced to go back again; I look’d up my goods, as I was advised by my good friend the Christian, whereof I made mention here before, and fitted myself for my journey. I got for my companions three Jews, one whereof came down the Euphrates with me, the others came from Ormutz, for I could get no others, to travel with me to Aleppo. We set out on the sixteenth of December in the year 1574, for Carcuch distant six days journey, in the confines of Media, on the other side of the river Tygris, which is still call’d by them in their language Hidekel. By the way we first saw some well-till’d fields, and above us on the river Tygris some villages, so that I could not but think I should meet with a country that had plenty of corn, must and honey, &c. as it was commended by the Arch-koob-bearer of the King of Assyria, and compared even with the Land of Promise, but the farther we went, the greater grew the wildernesses, so that we were forced to lodge all night in the fields.

The next morning there appeared a great way off more little villages belonging to the King of Persia: But we went on through the desarts, and my fellow-travellers told me that they extend themselves to Persia and Media, where we lost our way, and came in the evening into a bog which hindered us so much, that I, because their Sabbath began, whereon according to their laws they must not travel, was forced to stay there with them all night long in it, and also the next day, in great showers of rain, not without great inconveniency and trouble. During our staying there I look’d about me for some plants; but found none, because they did but first begin to sprout; but in the moist places some wild Galengal with great round roots, by the inhabitants call’d Soëdt, and by both Latins and Grecians, Cyperus.

The nineteenth day, after we were not without trouble, got out of the mire, our way extended itself still farther thro’ desolate places and desarts. I thought of Julian that impious Roman Emperor, and of his army, which when it went against the Persians, and was very numerous, over the river Tygris near to Ctesiphon, he was by an ancient Persian that was a prisoner, decoy’d into these desarts, where he was beaten and routed by the Persians. In this great fight when the Emperor himself was mortally wounded, he took up, as Nicephorus and Eusebius say, a handful of blood and flung into the air, yielded the victory and said, Then Galilean (so he call’d Christ, in whom he at first believed, and afterwards deny’d and persecuted) thou hast beaten and conquer’d me. After we had lived for several days very hardly in the desarts, and spent our time in misery, we came on the twentieth by Scherb, a village over an ascent, into another more fruitful and well till’d country, situated on the confines of Persia, and for the most part inhabited by them, which we could conjecture by the common language. Now, though travelling through the confines uses commonly to be very dangerous, yet, I thank God, we met with none, so that we without any stop or hindrance reach’d that night, the twenty first of December, to Schilb, a curious village, where we rested all night and refresh’d ourselves.

From thence we went on through large and fruitful vallies, but I found nothing (for it was but just at the beginning of ploughing time) that was worthy to be mention’d, for the plants did but just begin to sprout; we had by the way several villages, and so we had better opportunity to buy provision. The twenty third at night we came to one where we could buy near one hundred eggs for two pence.

The next day we got up early again, and saw before us the high mountain Tauri, all covered with snow (which extended itself a great way from north and west to the eastward) at a great distance. We went on a-pace, and advanced to Tauk early in good time, and before their Sabbath began again. This town is not very strong and lieth on a plain. We went into a camp without it, and rested there all the Sabbath. After Sun-set, when it began to grow dark, they desired of me to light a candle. I remembred then immediately, that they could not do it themselves, being forbid by law, as you may find in the thirty fifth chapter of Exodus, where you may see that they must kindle no fire in any of their habitations, wherefore they furnish themselves the day before with all sorts of provisions and necessaries, that they may not need to do any labour on the Sabbath, and yet may not want. When these Jews say their prayers, they use the same ceremonies as the Christians and Heathens in the eastern parts do: For first they lift up their hands, then they bow down forwards with their whole body, and at last they kneel down and kiss the ground. These Jews bragged continually of their Patriarchs, and made mention of the laws; but of the ten commandments they knew nothing, wherefore I took an occasion to repeat them before them in the Portugal language, which is very much spoke in the Indies, as well as I could, and they did admire when they heard them, how I came to know them. But when I began to speak of Christ and his offices, they burst out into such blasphemies, that I was glad to say no more, but hold my tongue.

Not far off from Tauk, we saw a very strong castle, near unto a wood, that is guarded by a Turkish garrison: This is situated in the province of the Curters, which beginneth there, and lieth between Media and Mesopotamia, all along the river Tygris and reacheth to Armenia. These Curters, which are almost all Nestorians, speak a peculiar language, which was unknown to my fellow-travellers, wherefore they could not speak to them in the Persian nor Turkish language, which is spoke all along from Bagdat through Assyria, in the confines of two potent monarchs, to that place. We were therefore forced to desire others that understood both languages, to be our interpreters through the country of the Curters. But whether this language did run upon that of their neighbours the Medians or no, I could not certainly learn; but yet I was inform’d that the Parthians, Medes, and Persians, as peculiar nations, had their peculiar languages, as histories tell us, and we may also perfectly see in the Acts of the Apostles the second chapter and the eight verse, where it is thus written: And how hear we every man in our own tongue, wherein we were born? Parthians and Medes, and Elamites, and the dwellers in Mesopotamia, &c. All which people almost are subject unto the Sophi, the mighty King of Persia. The before-mention’d Curters were formerly call’d Carduchi, and afterwards also Cardueni (as chiefly Xenophon testifieth) have had their peculiar policy and government. But after many changes and wars, they are at length subdued and brought under the dominion of the Turkish Emperor, to whom they are still subject to this day, and he hath every where his garrisons in opposition to the Sophi. But what is farther to be said of them, chiefly concerning their religion, shall be hereafter mention’d, when I shall give you an account among other Christians, of those that live in the temple of mount Calvaria in Jerusalem.

After the Sabbath of the Jews, my companions, was over, we went on again, and came the twenty sixth of December to Carcuck, a glorious fine city lying in a plain, in a very fertile country; at four miles distance is another that lieth on an ascent, whither we also travell’d, my companions having business in both of them, and so we spent two days in them before we were ready to go on again.

The twenty ninth we travell’d through large and dry heaths, and came at night to some tents, which were made of hair or hair-cloath, wrought out of goats and asses hair, and fix’d in such an order, that they made streets and allies like unto a market-town. In one of these we went to lodge with these poor people, (that were white Moors, and like unto the Gypsuns in their shape and figure) and to stay there all night long. But whether these people are subject to the Turkish Emperor, or to the King of Persia, or to any other, I could not find out by their cloaths, because they all wear the same hereabouts, nor could I discern any thing by their language. To us came a little after some more travellers, so that we had hardly room to lie down in. These people were very diligent and busy to get us some meat and drink, for the husband went soon out of doors to gather dry boughs and stalks of herbs, which I could not at that time discern what they were, and brought them to us to boil or dress some meat with them. The woman was not idle neither, but brought us milk and eggs to eat, so that we wanted for nothing; she made also some dough for cakes, which were about a finger thick, and about the bigness of a trencher (as is usual to do in the wilderness, and sometimes in towns also) she laid them on hot stones and kept them a turning, and at length she flung the ashes and embers over them, and so bak’d them thoroughly. They were very good to eat, and very savory. This way of baking cakes is not new, but hath been very usual among the ancients, so we find in Scripture mention made of bread bak’d among the ashes; the Romans call’d it, Panes Subcineritios; and so we read in Genesis the eighteenth chapter, of cakes made upon the hearth, which Sarah made in haste when the three men came to see Abraham.

The thirtieth we went from thence, and about noon we came to a town call’d Presta, which is chiefly towards the river whereon it lieth, very well fortify’d, but what the inhabitants call that river, I do not remember, but according to it’s situation it must be that which Ptolomy call’d Gorgus, which runs below into the Tyger. In this place they make floats, which although they are not very big, nor have much wood in them, yet they have abundance of bucks and goats skins blown up, hung or fixed underneath the bottom, without doubt, by reason that they may load the more upon them, and also because the river is rapid, that they may have the less fear or danger. On these floats they carry several sorts of merchandizes, but chiefly fruit, viz. Figs, Almonds, Cibebs, Nuts, Corn, Wine, Soap, &c. a great part whereof goeth farther into the Indies.

The last day of December we travell’d on, and came through well till’d fields about night into the town Harpel, which is pretty large, but very pitifully built, and miserably surrounded with walls, so that it might easily be taken without any great strength or loss; there we rested again the next day being the Sabbath, and on the same day fell New-Years-Day. In the mean time I understood that the Turkish Sangiack did a few days ago condemn and put to execution eight great malefactors, which made it their business to rob and to commit murder up and down on the high-way, for there are a great many of these rogues in this province, chiefly on the borders of Armenia, which are very mountainous, and maketh travelling very dangerous. The relations and friends of these murderers and robbers did take this very ill, that the Sangiack should execute them, and were resolved to be revenged of him one way or other. In order thereunto they combined and agreed all together, and had every thing ready, and only staid for the word to fall upon him, which would have been done accordingly, if he had not had good intelligence of this their intention, wherefore he went away incognito for Constantinople, to complain to the Turkish Emperor of this their unjust proceedings, and what they must expect for this, they will know in a short time. This Sangiack, when he found necessity of making his escape, and found that he wanted money, which is very seldom, he took up from an Armenian Merchant, that was very rich, and was arrived there to buy several merchandizes, chiefly Gauls, whereof grow many in these parts, 300 ducats, which put the Merchant into great danger; for when these rebellious people came to understand it, they took it very ill of him, and threaten’d him very much, so that he was forced to stay some days longer for more company, that so he might go the safer.

After we had joined him, we went from thence on the fifth of January in a very handsome number, for the Merchant alone had about fifty camels and asses, which were only loaden with Gauls, with him, to carry to Carahemit, where he lived, and to send from thence to Aleppo, where they are bought by our Merchants, to be sent into our country. So we travell’d all day long and also half the night, without eating or drinking, very fast, and began to rest about midnight. After we had for the remaining part of the night hardly refreshed our beasts and ourselves with eating and drinking a little, we broke up again before day-light, to go on in our way. When we were gone a good way through fruitful and pleasant vallies, we came betimes to another river by Ptolomy call’d Caprus, which although it is not very broad, yet it is very deep, so that we had much to do to get through, which I found not without a great detriment to my plants, which I carry’d on horse-back before me.

Soon after noon a great way off before us, appear’d a great market-town, Carcuschey, where we arrived by night, and fix’d our camp without and pretty near to it. This is quite inhabited by Armenians, which we could presently find by the alteration of the language and their habit. They received us very willingly, and let us want for nothing. After we had staid with them till night, and refresh’d ourselves and our beasts, we broke up again immediately and travell’d all night, which was so dark, that we heard several caravans that met us, but could not see them, much less know how strong they were, or from whence they came. At break of day we came to another much larger river, by the inhabitants call’d Kling, if I do not mistake, and by Ptolomy, Licus, which hindred us very much in our day’s journey; for the river being very broad, at least a long mile, it was very hard to hit exactly the right ford, and not without great danger, which the Curters knew very well, so that we were also in great fear of them. But after some were found in our company that had often forded that river formerly, we ventured it, went in, and got over, thanks be to God, very safe, only one ass which went over below us, where the stream went stronger, was drown’d, so that we arriv’d very early on the seventh of January, to the Tygris again, and went into the famous city Mossel, that lieth on this side of the river, over a bridge made of boats. This is situated in the country of the Curters, and so we were forced still to keep our interpreter. It belongeth to the Turkish Emperor, as do all the rest hereabouts. There are some very good buildings and streets in it, and it is pretty large; but very ill provided with walls and ditches, as I did observe from the top of our camp which extended to it. Besides this, I also saw just without the town a little hill, that was almost quite dug through, and inhabited by poor people, where I saw them several times creep in and out as pismires in ant-hills. In this place and thereabouts stood formerly the potent town of Nineveh, built by Ashur, which was the metropolis of Assyria, under the Monarch of the first monarchy, to the time of Sennacherib and his sons, and was about three days journey in length. So we read that the Prophet Jonas, when at the command of God, he preach’d repentance to them, did go into it one day’s journey, which the people did hearken willingly unto, and did amend their lives, but they did not long remain penitent, but turn’d to their former iniquity again, wherefore their destruction and ruin was prognosticated to them by the Prophets Nahum and Zephania, and also by the pious Tobias, that did live there again, which did also not long after follow. Yet was it re-built again afterwards, and did suffer very much upon changes of governments, until at length Tamerlane came and took it by storm, burnt it, and reduced it to that degree, that afterwards in the same place grew Beans and Colocasia, &c. So that at this time there is nothing of any antiquities to be seen as in old Babylon, save only the fort that lieth upon the hill, and some few villages, which as the inhabitants say, did also belong to it in former days. This town lieth on the confines of Armenia, in a large plain, where they sow the greatest part of their corn, on the other side of the river; for on this side in Mesopotamia it is so sandy and dry, that you would think you were in the middle of the desarts of Arabia. Yet there is a very large deposition of merchandizes, because of the river; wherefore several goods and fruits are brought thither from the adjacent countries, both by land and water, to ship them for Bagdat. Among the rest I saw abundance of small and great Turpentine-nuts, by the inhabitants call’d, as above-said, Bont-quiber and Sougier; and also another sort of Manna as big as a double fist, which is very common here, and is brought from Armenia, as they told me. It is of a brown colour, a great deal bigger and firmer, and not so sweet as that of Calabria, yet very good and pleasant to eat. Within it are several red grains, so small that one taketh no notice of them when one eats it. It looseneth the body very well, but not so much as ours, wherefore the inhabitants eat great pieces thereof in the morning, as the country-men on the mountains of Algaw eat cheese. But whether the Arabians make mention thereof, if it be not the Manna Alhagiezi, whereof Avicenna in his second book, the second treatise, and the 758th chapter maketh mention, I know not neither what it is to be reputed. The town Mossel, is as abovesaid, for the greatest part inhabited by Nestorians, which pretend to be Christians, but in reality they are worse than any other nations whatsoever, for they do almost nothing else, but rob on the high-ways, and fall upon travellers and kill them: therefore being that the roads chiefly to Zibin (to which we had five days journey, and for the most part through sandy wildernesses) are very dangerous, we staid some days longer, expecting more company that we might go the surer.

CHAP. X.

Which way we went through Mesopotamia by the way of Zibin and Orpha, to Bir, not without a great deal of danger; and afterwards how we passed the great river Euphrates, and came at last into Syria by Nisib, to the famous town of Aleppo.

After our journey had been deferr’d for four days, we broke up on the eleventh of January several hundred strong, and went on for the whole day without eating, with all speed until the sun-set at night, when we encamp’d on an ascent near a small village, to keep our beasts and goods safe, and to refresh ourselves and them. We watch’d all night long, and went continually three and three together, round about our camp by turns.

The next day we proceeded on again in our journey with all speed, rather for a good fountain or spring’s sake, as they do in these countries in the vast desarts, than to reach a good inn, where we arrived late at night, and encamp’d near it, to stay all night to rest. A little after when we were at supper, some of the Curters came to us into our camp, spoke to us kindly, and ask’d us whether we did want any thing that they could help us to, but we soon perceived them to be spies, that were sent by their companions, to see what strength we were of. But when they perceived that we were not pleased with them, they did not stay but went away, and we composed ourselves to rest, but kept a good guard as we had done the night before. About midnight when we were in our first sleep, our watch-men perceived a great number of the Curters to approach, wherefore they awak’d us with a great shouting to alarm us the sooner, and to bring us into good order, and to frighten our enemies, and to drive them away. But they did not only not mind us, but made all haste they could up to us, and that so near that we could see them, although it was dark, before our camp, by their heads. But when they found us in a good order and condition to oppose them, and did hear that our gunners and archers, which were ready to let fly at them, call’d with a loud voice to them, tahal, tahal Harami, that is, come hither, come hither you thieves, &c. they halted for a little while and were so afraid of us, that they turn’d their backs and run away. Afterwards when we fear’d nor expected their assault any more, they came quickly again a second time, in a far greater number than before. They led before them one camel and several horses, which in the dark we could only discern by their heads looking against the sky, in their hands, without doubt, that we might look upon them as travellers, or else that we might not be able to discern their number. But notwithstanding all this their first assault was still in fresh memory, wherefore we did not tarry, but drew soon up in our former order again, wherein I was the left hand man in the first rank again, with my scymeter drawn, and had before armed my breast with several sheets of paper, that I had brought with me to dry my plants in, expecting their assault every moment. But when they made a halt again, fearing their skin as much as we did ours, and did neither shout nor move up towards us, one of ours provok’d them, and did shoot at the camel, and did hit it so that it gave a sign thereof, but the rest forbore to fire. So they staid a little while, and then went off a second time.

So we kept awake all the rest of the night, and kept a good watch, and went on our journey again early the next morning about break of the day; and came again to wide and dry heaths, where we saw neither men nor beasts, and so we went on till noon, where we encamp’d in a large place, which was surrounded with walls and ditches pretty well, just like unto a fortress, whereof there are several in these dangerous places to be seen. When we staid there, two Curters came again to us into our camp, and spoke to us, pretending that they came to demand the toll that was due there, it being their place: But our Merchants soon perceived, that they were not in a right cause, wherefore they would allow them nothing, which put these two into such a passion, that they drew their swords, and would have at us; but our friends did not stay idle neither, but took their swords away, and laid on with dry blows at them, and so flung them out of our camp. After this hubbub was over we dined, and that the rather that we might not be too much weaken’d by our hard travelling, and so be the less able to resist these robbers, for want of strength if they should fall upon us, which we were not wont to do before night, chiefly in great desarts, for there we used to get up presently after midnight, and travel all day long with all speed without eating, which I had often experimented before; wherefore I used to provide myself always with bread, and when I had a mind to eat it, I did either stay behind or go before; for no body eats openly by the way in the sight of others, except he has a mind to run a hazard, because that most of them are very hungry, and so eager at it, that they will assault one another for it, and take it away from their very mouths. After we had refresh’d ourselves and fed our beasts, which useth to be done also but once a day, we broke up with our caravan, and went on again. We quickly saw some mountains before us, where, when we approach’d them towards the evening, there appear’d sometimes, on a high one, that before the rest lieth nearer to the plain, some of them, so that we might very well presume, that there was more of them behind in Ambuscado, which also proved very true: For no sooner were we pass’d it, but before we went up the hill, they came out from behind the mountain, in great troops on horseback, which immediately drew up into order in the fields, in two squadrons, three and three in a rank, to the number of about three hundred, almost as many as we were. They exercised their horses, which were very lank, very swiftly, turn’d sometimes on one, and then on the other hand, and come at length to us within a bow’s shot. They had most of them darts, which they play’d withal in their full speed, sometimes holding it downwards as if they would run through a deer, which was a pleasant but very dangerous sight to us. When they shew’d themselves so as if they would fall upon us instantly, we drew our caravan close together, in order to resist them. Wherefore we stood still, and tied our beasts together, and bound the fore-feet of each of them, that they could not stir; behind them stood our mockery, with their bows, and all those that were not well provided with arms and horses, either to shoot at the enemy, or else in case of necessity, if they should come too near us, to sally out, and cut off their horses with our scymeters. Near unto us our horses were drawn up into a troop, ready for their assault, to venture their success. After a whole hours delay we sent at length two of our company to them, and they sent also two of theirs to meet them to parley together; but which way they made up an agreement I know not, but they prevailed so much with them, that soon after they left us, and rode away, and we went on in our journey. After this we kept our caravan, (that is so much to say as a great many people, with loaden camels, asses, and horses) in far better order than we had done before, and came that same day a good way, to a small village, where we encamped and stay’d all night. We found no wood thereabouts, wherefore we made shift with bread instead of other victuals, and were very glad, we had it. In the mean time the inhabitants came to us, to gather the dung of our beasts as they do in several other places, chiefly in the desarts of Arabia, to burn it instead of wood, which they do after the following manner.