Volume 8 — Evans’s Pedestrious Tour of Four Thousand Miles—1818 (continued 4)

The town of Marietta is situated on the east of the junction of the Ohio and Muskingum.^[150] Its position is pleasant; but it has a deserted aspect, and is rapidly declining. It is not true, that the Muskingum is not subject to inundations. All the banks of the western river are, more or less, exposed to freshets; and this circumstance considerably lessens the value of the lands and buildings upon them. At the mouth of the Muskingum stands Fort Harmar.

The Hockhocking is rather smaller than the Muskingum, and is situated about twenty-five miles below the latter.^[151] On the banks of this river are quarries of free stone, iron and lead mines, pit coal, and salt springs. There are some fine lands on both of these rivers.

The town of Athens lies on the Hockhocking, about forty miles from the Ohio. It is pleasantly situated, and is the seat of the Ohio University.

The River Scioto is even larger than the Muskingum. It is navigable nearly two hundred miles, and is connected with the river Sandusky, which enters Lake Erie, by a portage of four miles. On the Scioto, about one hundred miles from the Ohio, is the town of Chilicothe.^[152] This place is the seat of government. Not far from the Scioto, are salt 265springs, which belong to the state; also coal, free stone, and several kinds of valuable clay.

[161] The town of Cincinnati^[153] is situated on the east of the Great Miami, near its junction with the Ohio. This town is pleasantly situated, and presents the appearance of much business. It is a very flourishing place. There are several manufactories here, one of which is situated at the foot of the bank, and is eight or ten stories high.

In Cincinnati is situated Fort Washington. This is the first of that chain of forts which extends west. On the eastern branch of the Great Miami is Fort St. Clair; and on the western branches Forts Jefferson and Greenville. On the river Calumet, which enters the Wabash, stands fort Recovery; and just above this fort is the place of St. Clair’s defeat.^[154]

The Great Miami is the boundary of the state of Ohio on the river of this name. The Great Miami is about three hundred yards wide at its mouth, and interlocks with the Scioto, above Chilicothe. One of its branches runs within four miles of the Miami of the Lake, and within seven miles of the Sandusky. The bed of the Great Miami is stony, and its current rapid. Just above its mouth is fort Hamilton.

266There are many small creeks and towns near the Ohio, which in my course I saw and visited; but which furnish no interesting materials for remark. Besides, I am not writing a Gazetteer; and with geography, my fellow-citizens are well acquainted.

I may here speak, as I promised, upon the probable course of the seasons in the west. I am much inclined to believe, that the cold seasons, which the people of New-England have for many years experienced, and which have so much injured the interests of agriculture among us, are passing off to the west; and that the people of the west will, for several years, experience seasons less favourable than usual. My opinion is founded upon the facts, that for the two last years we have experienced more favourable [162] seasons, and the people of the west less favourable ones, in the same comparative proportions. This is a good criterion by which to form an opinion upon the subject. The change of seasons in both sections of the country prove and corroborate each other.

The spring and summer of 1817 were, with us, less unfavourable than usual. The hopes of our farmers, and of those who depend for a sufficiency of provisions upon an abundant market, were considerably revived; and this year we have experienced something like a good old-fashioned season. The golden ears of corn, more beautiful than the productions of the richest mines, have again brightened our fields, and cheered our hearts. Had ungenial seasons continued much longer, this part of the country would have become impoverished and depopulated:—people were going down into Egypt for bread.

Last year the seed time and harvest of the west were unfavourable; and the spring of 1818 was in the highest degree unpromising. In the western parts of Virginia, where the climate is, usually, warmer than on the east of the 267mountains; and in the states of Ohio, Kentucky, &c. planting time this year was very backward. When, according to the usual course of the seasons, it was time for corn to appear above the surface of the ground, ploughing had not commenced. Some of the farmers asserted, that the season was even later than the spring before by five or six weeks.

During the month of May, the weather in the west was cold and windy. On the 3d of this month the birds were assembling for a more southern climate. They were so chilled that I caught many of them without difficulty; and others of them perished in the night. The season for the commencement of [163] vegetation here is probably four weeks earlier than in New-Hampshire.

Until my arrival at New-Orleans the weather, generally, was cold and dry; and even here the wind was frequently cool. About the middle of May I experienced frost in Kentucky; and near the Mississippi the cotton, much later than this, was in a wretched state. In Tennessee, heretofore remarkable for the excellence of its cotton, this article, for two years past, has been rapidly degenerating. The severity of the last winter even in New-Orleans, was unparalleled. The streets there were covered with ice sufficiently hard to bear loaded waggons.

Should Heaven favour the New-England states with good seasons, no country in the world would be preferable to it. Our unfavourable seasons have taught us our dependence upon that Being, “who prepareth rain for the earth, and maketh grass to grow upon the mountains.”

I am of opinion, that for some years to come, our seasons will be remarkably fruitful. The earth here has, for a considerable time, been acquiring strength, which has not been called forth; and having been accustomed to cool seasons, warm ones, operating upon this new acquisition 268of vegetative power, will cause an extraordinary impetus in the soil.

I have spoken of our bright Indian harvest. The corn of the west is much inferior to ours. Growing upon a rank soil, its production is rapid, and the kernel is large and unsubstantial. Indian meal is seldom used in the west, excepting for cattle; and very few persons there are acquainted with the Yankee mode of making Indian cakes. Being fond of this coarse bread, I frequently, during my tour, instructed the gentle dames of the west in this New-England custom. But in many cases, after waiting [164] an hour for my repast, I was deprived of most of it by the fondness of the children of the house for this new dish; and in one instance the kind mother could get rid of them only by knocking them under the table as fast as they would come up.

The variety of birds which I saw in the western woods excited much interest. Many species entirely new to me made their appearance. Some of them were very beautiful. Many of these birds being common in the South of Europe, proves that the climate of the west is mild; and the spontaneous growth of hops and grapes here speak favourably of its soil.

Fruit trees, particularly peach and apple, flourish well in Ohio; but a more northern climate is more peculiarly calculated for the latter.

The western country is exceedingly well adapted to the growth of hemp; both as it respects its climate, and its extensive levels of deep and rich mould. This advantage, and the abundance of excellent ship timber, and iron, which its forests and hills produce, would enable it to furnish for the market the finest ships. The black walnut here is said to be as durable as the live oak; and the frames of vessels built upon the western waters, are frequently 269made of this wood. There is here too, an abundance of excellent yellow pine, suitable for masts and spars. These, with many other kinds of lumber, are rafted and floated down the rivers to New-Orleans, and there sell at a high price. Upon these rafts large quantities of produce are often transported to the same place.

The produce carried down to this vast market consists, principally, of flour, corn, pork, beef, bacon, venison, flax, whiskey, lumber, and live stock, particularly horses. The foreign goods received into the western states, lying on the Mississippi and [165] Ohio, and their principal sources, come, as has been observed, from Philadelphia and Baltimore, by the way of Pittsburg. This place is the great depot for the supply of all places below it. Foreign goods to a large amount are also brought from New-Orleans; and some from Virginia, by the way of Richmond.

In speaking of large vessels on the Ohio, I may add, that ships of large tonnage have been built on this river, laden for the West-Indies, and there sold, both vessel and cargo. A person in Europe, unacquainted with the geography of our western waters, would be astonished to see, in the Atlantic ocean, a large vessel, freighted with country produce, which was built and laden at Pittsburgh, between two and three thousand miles from the Gulf of Mexico.

How wonderfully impressive is the prospect, which this country presents to the politician, during his cogitations upon our remote destinies! Every thing is conspiring to render the United States far more populous than Europe. In the course of a few hundred years all that is great, and splendid will characterize us.—The arts of Greece, the arms of Rome, the pride of England will be ours. May God avert the rest!

Whilst on the Ohio, I was pleased with the appearance 270of the floating grist-mill used on this river. This kind of mill is supported by two boats, and the wheel moves between them. The boats move both up and down the river, and when employment can be obtained, they are placed in the strongest current near the shore, and the mill is set in motion. Here there is no tax for ground rent, mill-dam, or race.

In speaking of mills, I may advert to one which I saw in Indiana, and which excited some interest. As I was one day passing through a wood, near a [166] small log building, I heard a singular noise in the latter, and had the curiosity to look in. There was here a grist-mill moved by a horse, and attended by a little boy about nine years of age. The horse draws upon a stable fixed in a post; but making no progress, he pushes back with his feet the platform upon which he stands, and which is of a circular form. Through the centre of this platform there is a post fixed in the ground. The walking of the horse sets the machinery in motion. The cogs, the wallower, the trunnel-head, and the stones operated pretty much in the usual way. The Lilliputian miller displayed all the airs and importance so common to the managers of such noisy establishments.

In the state of Ohio, and in other places in the west, are some natural curiosities, with respect to which I must not be silent; but as I can probably throw no light upon the mystery in which they are involved, my remarks upon them will be brief.

As to the bones of animals which have been found at the Licks, particularly at that called the Big Bone,^[155] I think there can be no doubt, that they are those of animals which, from a variety of causes, have perished there. Animals in 271the west were once very numerous, and, no doubt, vast herds of buffalo, elk, deer, and even the mammoth resorted thither. Probably many of them fell into these licks, either by accident, by contention, or by their eagerness to get to the salt, and were thus destroyed. Some too probably killed themselves by the quantity of salt water which they drank; and where such vast numbers were constantly assembling, many must have died in consequence of disease and old age.

Much less plausible suppositions can be suggested relative to the vast mounds and walls of earth in the west; the former of which, it is said, contain human bones.

[167] It may be presumed that these walls were erected for the purpose of defence. It is well known that savage tribes wage with each other the most destructive wars. Some of the tribes of North America have distinguished themselves by their blood-thirsty and exterminating disposition. The Iroquois were once the terror of all the neighbouring tribes. By their hostile and ferocious spirit many of these tribes became nearly extinct. Of the Nadonaicks only four cabins or families remained. The Puans too, were not less formidable and fierce than the Iroquois. They violated every humane principle. The very name of stranger embittered them. They supposed themselves invincible, and persecuted and destroyed every tribe whom they could discover. There were other tribes similarly disposed.

Now it may be supposed, that the tribes in the neighbourhood of those whose object it was to exterminate all other tribes, would assemble for mutual defence. Coalitions of this kind are not unfrequent among savages. Further: nothing would be more natural than for savages, thus situated, to erect fortifications of trees and earth, for the purpose of securing themselves against the common 272enemy. Such a principle of self defence would be natural, and, of course, universal.

As to the mounds of earth, supposed to contain human bones, it may be observed, that several tribes of Indians may have combined and fortified themselves against their enemies; and in this situation they may have been conquered and destroyed. It is well known, that in Indian battles there is no quarter given. The dead bodies of several thousand persons thrown together and covered with earth, would make a vast heap. But even supposing that the enemy had not prevailed, famine, contagious [168] diseases, or even ordinary causes of death, would, among a great assemblage of people, produce, in a short time, a sufficient number of bodies to make on the surface of the earth a vast mound. Covering the dead with mounds of earth instead of digging graves for them, might not only be found convenient, under certain circumstances, but is a custom peculiar to the aborigines of America.

The finding of one or two pieces of ancient coin in the west has occasioned much speculation. A copper coin, bearing Persian characters, has, it is said, been found on the banks of the Little Miami river.

It is well known, that mankind are naturally itinerant; and that they carry with them their goods, especially those which are portable, and which they highly value. A piece of coin possesses both of these qualities; and it would not be more strange to find an Asiatic medal in North America, than to find here an Indian of Asiatic origin.

Our first parents were created in Asia; and the rest of mankind descended from them. By emigrations various distant portions of the world have been settled. Emigration was an act of necessity. One quarter of the world could not have contained all mankind; and the population of Asia became, in time, too great. Asia is at 273this time supposed to contain five hundred millions of people; and in China, such is the excess of population, that children are destroyed by their parents, with as little ceremony as though they were the offspring of the most worthless domestic animals.

It is to be presumed that the Continent of North America was peopled from the north-east of Asia. In no other way could the Western Continent have, so early, become known. The north is not, even now, known beyond the latitude of eighty-two; and [169] with respect to it thus far there is much doubt. The eastern and western continents may be connected near this latitude; and in this direction the aborigines of North America may have travelled from the former to the latter. Certain it is that the water between the north-east of Asia, and the north-west of America is comparatively shallow. In Bering’s Straits, situated in the latitude of sixty-six, there are many islands; the width of the straits is only about fifty miles, and, in winter, the passage across is frozen.

Even here the eastern and western continents, were perhaps, once connected. Such an idea is not inconsistent either with the nature of things, or with analogy. The earth has experienced, from time to time, great revolutions; and Strabo, an ancient and celebrated geographer, speaks of the time when the Mediterranean Sea did not exist. Why may not the two great continents have been or still be united as well as those of Europe and Africa? There is in the north-east of Asia much more evidence of its former connection with the north-west of America, than there is of a similar connection between Europe and Africa, inasmuch as the water between the former is unquestionably shallow; and between the latter it is very deep.

Besides, what adds great weight to the general supposition that the original settlers of the western continent emigrated 274from the north-east of Asia is, that in many particulars they resemble the inhabitants of the latter. Many of the islands of Bering’s straits, and also both of its coasts, are peopled; and their occupants are much in the habit of emigrating.

The original inhabitants of South America were probably, the descendants of the aborigines of North America; and emigrated from the latter to the [170] former across the Isthmus of Darien. Nothing is more natural than for people to emigrate from a northern to a southern latitude; and this course was, no doubt, taken, in a greater or less degree, by all the original inhabitants of North America. All the North American Indians, with whom we are acquainted, excepting the Esquimeaux, now reside south of their supposed track from the eastern to the western continent.

In South America, as in other warm countries, the modes of living become more refined than in climates further north; and in the history of the former we see the same diversity of character as existed in North America. Many of the tribes of the north might have been compared with the Peruvians of the south, a mild and inoffensive people; and the Iroquois and Puans of the former, with the Chilians and Caribs of the latter.

As to Persian coin being found in North America, it is not more surprising than the finding of Roman coin in Great-Britain. The same effect may arise from different causes. It was probably, not more easy for Julius Cæsar to invade Britain, than for the Asiatics to emigrate to North America.

In dismissing this subject I may observe, that all the accounts from the west are not to be immediately credited. Many, to please their fancies, and more, to fill their purses, speak hyperbolically respecting it. A great man who 275prided himself upon his penetration, once being questioned as to the causes of some supposed appearance in nature, assumed a wise phiz, and deeply reasoned upon the subject. Stop, my friend, said the quizzer, had you not better first inquire as to the matter of fact?

After passing Great Sandy River, which is a boundary line between Virginia and Kentucky, I entered this state. The general aspect of the country [171] here is nearly level. Near the Ohio, however, for fifteen or twenty miles, the country is broken, hilly, and even mountainous. In clambering some of these mountains I experienced considerable fatigue. They are so steep, that one can ascend them only by taking hold of the bushes on their sides.

There are in Kentucky scarcely any swamps or very low lands. The soil of the levels is rather thin; but on the swells and ridges the soil is exceedingly fertile. A bed of limestone exists, five or six feet below the surface, throughout the principal part of the state. In consequence of this circumstance its springs, in a dry season, soon become exhausted. This state is inferior to all others, with respect to mill privileges, inasmuch as very few of its streams stand the usual drought of autumn.

This state furnishes, in the greatest abundance, all the articles which the State of Ohio produces. It raises, besides the ordinary objects of agriculture, vast quantities of hemp, and considerable tobacco. Several millions of pounds of maple sugar are made here annually; and the woods of this state feed immense droves of swine. The rivers abound with fish, and the cane brakes support herds of deer.

In travelling through some of those thickets, I was impressed with a high idea of the luxuriance of the soil. Indeed, the general aspect of the country here evinces great fertility of soil, and mildness of climate. In 276this state grow the coffee, papaw, hackberry, and cucumber tree; also the honey locust, mulberry, and buck eye. Many accounts respecting the fruitfulness of Kentucky are, no doubt, exaggerated; but it is, in fact, an abundant and delightful country. For my own part, however, I prefer, to its rich levels, the echoing hills of New-Hampshire.

[172] As this part of the country abounds with interesting vegetation, I may here make a reflection or two upon botany. How infinite is the vegetable kingdom! and how far beyond expression is the variety and beauty of her hues! these tints are heavenly; and the pencil of nature has displayed them to render man heavenly-minded. How wonderful too, are the affections and sympathies of plants! Here the poet finds an exhaustless source of imagery, and here every vicissitude of life may select its appropriate emblem.

The whole of the north-westerly parts of Kentucky is bound by the river Ohio. A small part of it lies on the Mississippi; and this river, so far, is its western boundary. Tennessee lies south of it. The principal rivers in Kentucky which enter the Ohio are Sandy, Kentucky, Cumberland, and Tennessee. The sources of these rivers are very numerous, and in proceeding to the Ohio fertilize a vast tract of rich country. The Tennessee passes through a small part of Kentucky. The Cumberland runs into Tennessee, and then extends through a considerable part of Kentucky in an east and west direction. Its principal sources are in the Cumberland mountains. This river furnishes every material for ship building; and during the rainy season can float vessels of the largest size. Nashville,^[156] in Tennessee, lies up this river; and much business is transacted between this place, Pittsburg, and New-Orleans. 277The river is navigable without any obstruction, for five hundred miles, and is, at its mouth, about three hundred yards wide.

On the banks of Kentucky river are many precipices, some of which are three or four hundred feet high. In these precipices may be seen much limestone, and some fine white marble. This river is about two hundred miles in length, and in width [173] two hundred and fifty yards. In this state are many celebrated salt springs. Its iron ore is of a very inferior quality; and its caves and other natural curiosities are highly interesting. Lexington, the capital of Kentucky, is an elegant and polished place.^[157]

Many of the inhabitants of this state emigrated from every part of the United States, and from most of the countries of Europe. A great many of them came from Virginia; and, unfortunately for our common country, they brought with them their slaves. What a source of regret is it, that Kentucky did not prohibit, within her jurisdiction, the bondage of these friendless beings! A sense of propriety, and a regard for the reputation, and true interests of the United States, should have taught the guardians of her public weal to wash their hands from this foul stain. The first settlers of this state found themselves in a land where all was nature, and all was liberty. The rivers poured their unrestrained tribute, the winds blew where they listed, the earth teamed, the birds flew, the fish leaped, the deer bounded over the hills, and the savage knew no master. Enviable situation! But the scene is marred. There, human beings toil and sweat under the lash of a task-master. It is said that slaves are treated well! They are,—and ill! A slave is a slave, in spite of all the logic of avarice, indolence, and purse-proud humanity. Power creates tyranny; and in the hands of a 278tyrant no man is safe. The sufferings of the slave, even in the United States, are sufficient to sink any country into perdition. A record of them would make us run mad with shame. Ask the mother how she fared, both before and after her deliverance. Ask these children of toil what it is to die for want of repose?—What it is to perish under the lash?

[174] Some of the United States have, in their constitutions, set their faces against this unbecoming,—this odious practice. Had the western states followed the example, the evil would have been, principally, confined to the southern states; and these states, finding that upon their shoulders alone rested the terrible responsibility involved in the subject, would have applied a remedy. The evil is now spreading. In Kentucky,—a garden planted in the wilderness,—a land, where liberty dwelt for six thousand years, there are herds of slaves. May the states, which shall hereafter impress their stars upon the banner of our union and our glory, guard against this wretched state of things; and may the slave-holding states, ere long, make a noble, generous patriotic, and humane effort, to remove from human nature this yoke of bondage, and from their country this humiliating stigma!

The great, but inconsistent Burk, in speaking of the southern states says, that the planters there, seeing the great difference between themselves and their slaves, acquire, thereby, the spirit of liberty. For my own part, however, I should think this circumstance would create the fire of aristocracy, which prides itself in power, and in subjugation.

There are many towns in Kentucky, which lie on the Ohio, the principal of which is Louisville. This place is situated just above the rapids of the Ohio and near Bear Grass Creek. Its scite is commanding and pleasant, its 279aspect spacious, and it contains many large and elegant buildings. At this place resides the intrepid Colonel Croghan.^[158] Opposite to Louisville the river Ohio is more than a mile in width. Much ship building is carried on here; and at this place boats and vessels, going down the river, stop for a pilot. Ships of four hundred tons have [175] passed down the rapids. The river is, generally, in its highest state between February and April.

Opposite to this place, on the other side of the Ohio, is the town of Jeffersonville; and two miles below, on the Kentucky side, is a small place called Shippingport.^[159] At this place boats, bound down the river, generally land for the purpose of leaving the pilot, and of obtaining information as to the markets below. Near the rapids is situated Fort Steuben.^[160]

The road from Louisville to Shippingport lies on the bank of the river, and on the river side of it are groves of large sycamore trees. Below the latter place, for fifty miles, the river is truly beautiful. In the vicinity of Louisville are some noble plantations. Some of the planters 280here sow five hundred acres with wheat, set twenty ploughs a-going in one field, keep sixty horses, several hundred negroes, and carry on distilling, coopering, and other trades.

A few miles below Cincinnati, on the Kentucky side of the river, is situated the plantation of the late General Pike.^[161] It was interesting to see the residence of this great man. He was a true patriot; and possessed all the hardihood and intrepidity of Charles the twelfth. After serving his country for many years, and acquiring her confidence and love, he nobly died under her triumphant banners. Among a free and virtuous people, the fate of one brave man kindles the latent spark of patriotism in ten thousand hearts, and in his example, they find inspiring lessons of courage and devotion.

Limestone is situated on Limestone Creek in Kentucky.^[162] This is a pretty considerable place, but the river has so far encroached upon the bank upon which it is situated, that it, probably, will fall in the course of a few years. Indeed I believe, that this will ultimately be the fate of many places on the immediate banks of the Ohio. Even Marietta, and [176] Cincinnati, are, probably candidates for speedy ruin. I should not be surprised to hear that the very next freshet had produced such an effect. With respect to all these places, the abrasion of the banks is 281constant, and hundreds of buildings are situated near their verge. The owners of these buildings have already incurred much expense, in endeavouring to secure the banks where their individual property stands; but there is no union in these efforts, and the means employed are totally inefficient. Most of the towns on the Ohio are every year partially inundated, in consequence of the astonishing rise of the river. The banks are frequently overflown to the depth of twenty feet.

Opposite to Cincinnati is Licking River. This river is navigable about one hundred and twenty miles. On its west bank, near its junction with the Ohio, is the town of Coventry; and on the other side is Newport. They are both considerable places, and present an elegant appearance.

In travelling through the woods, a few miles from this river, I met with several species of birds which I had never before seen. Nature’s fondness for variety is conspicuously displayed in all her works; and I am surprised that naturalists have not noticed this circumstance, so as to furnish, at least a plausible argument, in the disquisitions of philosophy concerning the human race.

At the junction of the Ohio and Cumberland rivers is the little town of Smithland.^[163] A more miserable looking place exists no where. It contains a few wretched buildings, some of which are occupied for the accommodation of boatmen. Here the slaves are more numerous than the whites, and many of the former appear far better in point of morals and intelligence.

Before I leave Kentucky, I may touch upon a [177] topic, which distinguishes her, and many of the Southern and 282Western States, from those of New-England. The practice which prevails in the former of individuals publicly tendering their services to the people, pending elections for representatives, may, in the abstract, be productive of some evils; but relative to the systems of intrigue, which exist, in a greater or less degree, in every state in the Union, it is a practice which policy dictates, and patriotism sanctions. A large concourse of people, listening to the animated oratory of rival candidates, may experience some excitement; but is not this a less evil than those which arise from the dark and silent operations of abandoned men, who have combined for their own exclusive advancement, and for the purpose of keeping out of sight those, whose virtues and talents, by coming into contact with theirs, would render their darkness visible?

The safety of our government, rests upon the existence of good principles; and the preservation of these principles depends in no small degree upon their being patronized, and rewarded. Under such a government as ours, every political proceeding should be fair and open. No intrigue should be countenanced. The people should be able to see every cause and effect of the political machinery. Virtue, talents, and patriotism, should be encouraged; and vice, ignorance, and selfishness, discountenanced. The latter should never be suffered to obtain the patronage of the people through private intrigue, and the agency of petty coalitions. But this will always be the case, where political management may be cloaked under the bustle of party spirit and mock-patriotism.

No wise man will, unless prompted by a sense of duty, arising from the perils of the times, ever wish [178] for the toils, and the responsibilities of office; or ever expose himself to the caprice of the multitude. But there may be seasons when, owing to the corrupt practices incident to 283party spirit, the jargon of ignorance, and the pretended patriotism of villainy, shall have usurped the management of public concerns, and have cypherised the community, it would be the indispensable obligation of the true patriot to tender his services to his country, to discountenance existing systems of political traffic, and thereby to restore to the people their consequence, their security, and their reputation.

After being sometime in Kentucky, I crossed the Ohio and entered Indiana.

This state lies on the river Ohio, from the Great Miami to the Wabash. On the east is the state of Ohio, on the west Illinois; and on the north-west Michigan. The form of Indiana is that of an oblong. The sinuosities of the Ohio, however, render its boundary here very uneven. The length of the state is about 270 miles, and its breadth 130.

The soil, climate, face of the country, and productions of this state resemble those of Ohio. Salt springs, coal pits, lime, free stone, and valuable clays of various kinds abound in Indiana; and on the Wabash, it is said there is a silver mine.

The salt springs of the west generally produce a bushel of salt from about one hundred gallons of the water. This water is frequently obtained by boring, from sixty to two hundred feet, through solid rock. There is, in the west, springs of salt petre; and in Indiana there are very valuable salt springs, which belong to the United States, and which are profitably managed by the government.^[164]

The Prairie in Indiana, called Pilkawa, is a high level 284ground, seven miles long and three broad. Its [179] soil is very rich, and upon it there was never known to be a tree.

Vincennes, the capital of Indiana, lies on the Wabash.^[165] Here the commerce of the state principally centres. Goods from Canada pass into this state down the Illinois river. From New-Orleans they proceed up the Mississippi, Ohio, and Wabash; and from the eastern and southern states by the way of the Ohio and last mentioned river.

In this state, on the river Ohio, is the celebrated Swiss settlement.^[166] The situation does not present a very favorable appearance, and I apprehend that much success is not experienced in the making of wine there. It appears to me that a more favorable tract for this business might be found in Kentucky. The soil of this state is lighter and warmer than that of Indiana.

Near the Swiss settlement I met with many trees and bushes quite new to me. The thorn bush here produces thorns, which would answer the purpose of nails. They are three inches long, and so sharp and hard that they can be pressed, with the hand, through an inch board. The buck eye, of which I have spoken, is, probably, the horse chesnut of Europe. The magnolia bears blossoms very beautiful and fragrant. The coffee tree resembles the black oak, and bears a pod enclosing a seed, of which a drink is made, not unlike coffee. The papaw resembles the locust, or custard apple tree, and bears a pod, containing several very rich kernels, of the size and colour of a tamarind.^[167]

285The principal river in Indiana is the Wabash. The banks of this river are high and fertile, and its aspect very beautiful. It is navigable, at certain seasons of the year, upwards of six hundred miles. White, Theakiki and Calumet rivers are its greatest tributaries.^[168]

[180] Just above Vincennes is Fort Knox, and a little above the latter are situated the Watenaus.^[169] The Pootewatomies are settled not far from the southerly end of Lake Michigan. It may here be observed, that the Indians of North America, especially those who reside within the boundaries of the United States, are continually changing their place of residence; that they divide their tribes into many small societies, and each of these occupy one village. These societies, although of the same tribe, frequently acquire a new name. Hence arise, in part, the almost innumerable number of names, which suggest the idea of new tribes. Different names too, are sometimes given to the same tribe or society. But the tribes of the north and west are still very numerous. It has been supposed that our government is too desirous of obtaining Indian lands upon fair purchase. As to this particular I can only say, that many tracts which are sold, are not worth a cent to their occupants, in as much as they have ceased to be good hunting grounds, and the owners are about to abandon them.

The river Tippecanoe is a branch of the Wabash. It is 286well known that in 1811 a bloody battle was fought on the former, between the Americans and Indians.^[170] The history of this engagement is very interesting. It is worth one’s while to recur to it. Our troops, headed by the intrepid Harrison, penetrated through a dreary wilderness for the purpose of destroying the Town of the Prophet, who, together with Tecumseh, a brother of his, had been endeavouring to excite, in several tribes of Indians, hostile feelings towards the United States. The troops of Harrison were, during their march, surrounded and menaced by many hostile tribes. After arriving at their place of destination, they encamped for the night. Just before daylight the [181] next morning, a furious and determined onset was made by the Indians, and a bloody contest ensued. Before our troops could form, there were engagements, man to man, in the tents. The tawny Indian and the hale soldier grappled for mastery. The march of the Americans had been very laborious and fatiguing; and both by day and by night the strictest watch, and the utmost readiness for action had been maintained. But flesh and blood must have repose. The soldier slept upon his arms. He saw the approach of the savage, but awaking, found it was a dream. He slept, and dreamed again;—he awoke no more:—some of our troops were found dead, and even scalped in their tents. This was a night full of horror. It was dark and rainy, and the air was rended by savage yells.

The vigilant Harrison was up, and giving orders, just 287as the attack commenced. Our officers and men quickly stepped to their posts. In their way they met the savage foe, and contended with him in darkness. The General ordered all his fires to be immediately extinguished; his troops were soon formed, and the contest was, for some time, maintained with unabated fury. The result is well known.

Those of our countrymen, who fell in this engagement, deserve our grateful remembrance; and those who survived it should be rewarded.

After the battle the wounded suffered exceedingly. Carried in waggons over so rough a way, their ligatures were loosened, and death daily lightened the load. In this contest the renowned 4th regiment breasted, with an immoveable aspect, the fury of the savages; and thereby saved from destruction the rest of the troops. Many of the militia, thus supported, behaved well; but some of them fled, like whipp’d curs, under the baggage waggons.

[182] Colonel Davies,^[171] who fell upon this sanguinary field, possessed a high military genius. His enthusiasm was lofty; and had he survived this bloody conflict, the last war would, probably, have felt his giant energies. Other great souls fell on this trying night; but my humble records cannot do them justice.

Near the head waters of the Wabash some of the Kickapoos are settled; and here too the Shawanese have some of their hunting grounds.^[172] This last idea suggests the 288subject of Zoology. There is no topic in nature more interesting than this. The great variety of species which this genius presents, and the dispositions peculiar to each, render this subject an inexhaustible source of instruction and entertainment. From the animal world, man may derive important lessons in relation to industry, economy and perseverance. Indeed, here are displayed all the passions and affections incident to human nature;—all that is exalted, and all that is mean:—the generous courage of the lion, the selfish cunning of the fox, the ferocity of the bull dog, and the fawning of the spaniel. Here is a fund of simile illustrative of dispositions, manners, and morals, which are exceedingly forcible.

The relations of this subject are too numerous for incidental remark. Unless the whole of it is embraced, one hardly knows where to begin, or where to leave off. That part of natural philosophy, which relates to the animal and vegetable worlds, have an intimate connexion with moral nature. The whole creation presents to the human mind the most engaging subjects of contemplation;—subjects which speak to his heart, and eloquently persuade him to love and adore his Heavenly Father. The Scriptures derive from this source moral and religious illustrations, which are truly impressive: In the 80th [183] Psalm the Deity speaks of his chosen people under the similitude of a vine brought out of Egypt; and on account of transgression, “the boar out of the wood doth waste it, and the wild beast of the field doth devour it.” David, in representing the happiness, security, and comfort of a christian spirit, exclaims, “the sparrow hath found an house, and the swallow a nest for herself;—even thine altars, O Lord of hosts!” And in speaking of the universal care of Providence, he says, “He giveth to the beast his food, and to the young ravens which cry.” Jeremiah too, in 289censuring the Jews for their insensibility and impenitence, declares, “yea, the stork in the heaven knoweth her appointed times; and the turtle, and the crane, and the swallow, observe the time of their coming: but my people know not the judgment of the Lord.” Lastly, how supremely interesting, in view of the innocence of the lamb, is the exclamation, “Behold the Lamb of God which taketh away the sins of the world!” The Author of the Scriptures is, indeed, the great God of nature; and in his Word, he has employed that wonderful pencil, with which he has garnished the heavens.

The opossum of Indiana is said to possess peculiar qualities. This animal has ever excited the attention of naturalists, by its extraordinary means of cherishing and securing its young. Under the belly of the opossum is a bag, composed of a thick skin completely lined with soft fur, and this skin fully covers the animal’s teats. Into this bag the young of the opossum lie; and, in a time of danger, the parent closes this bag, the young hang upon her teats, and in this situation she endeavours to escape from her pursuers.

It is well known that the opossum, at its birth, is remarkably small; but the account which I received [184] from an intelligent farmer of Indiana, in relation to this particular, is almost incredible. This account, however, seems to be supported, analogically, by the testimony of naturalists. The young of the marmose, a species of opossum, is, when first born, not larger than a bean. This animal has two longitudinal folds of skin, near the thighs, in which her young are comfortably kept until they acquire strength enough to take care of themselves.

The Indiana planter says, that the young of the real opossum has been found, in the bag described, not larger than a grain of barley. We may here inquire, in what 290way the opossum is propagated? The above account of the young of the opossum is not absolutely incredible. Nature’s modes of production are astonishingly various. Aristotle says, that she abhors a vacuum; and certain it is, that she dislikes similarity. Some of her animated existences she produces through the instrumentality of one sex, some of two, some of three, and some without any sex. The snail is an hermaphrodite; and some shell-animals in the East-Indies require, in order to their production, the union of three individuals. The polypus is very prolific, and yet is destitute of sexual distinction. Upon its body appear protuberances, similar to buds upon trees, and these are the real animal in miniature. Whilst in this state, they are nourished, apparently, as buds are nourished by sap, and when they are capable of taking care of themselves, they fall off like ripe fruit.

Two other peculiarities of the opossum are its dread of water, and indifference to fire. It is said that this animal, upon being slightly stricken, pretends to be dead; and continues to appear so even when its paws are burning off; but when put into water it immediately becomes alarmed, and struggles to save itself. Naturalists say, that this animal subsists, principally, upon birds.

[185] Leaving the state of Indiana, I passed into the Illinois Territory. This territory is generally level, but I think it more diversified than Indiana. The Illinois Territory is of immense extent. It is bounded on the east, by Lake Michigan and Indiana; on the south, by the Ohio river; on the south-west and west, by the Mississippi; on the north by Lake Superior; on the north-west by the Lake of the Woods; and west-south-west, by the most northern source of the Mississippi. It constitutes the whole of the North-West Territory, excepting Ohio, Michigan, and Indiana, 291and contains about 200,000 square miles, exclusive of the waters of Lake Superior and Michigan.

The meadows on the river Illinois are very extensive. The aspect of the river is expansive and gentle; and at its confluence with the Mississippi, it is about four hundred yards wide. The other principal rivers in this territory, are the Ouisconsin, and Fox rivers. The former runs very near Fox river, which enters Lake Winnebago. This Lake is the nearest average point of communication between the waters of the St. Lawrence, and the Gulf of Mexico. On the Illinois river, there is pit coal, salt springs, and in other parts of the territory, lead and copper mines. Between the rivers Kaskaskias, and Illinois, there is an extensive tract of rich land, which terminates in a high ridge. In this fertile vale are a number of small French villages.^[173]

There is a communication, between the Illinois river and Lake Michigan, by the way of Chicago river, and two small portages.^[174] The Illinois strikes the Mississippi about twenty miles above the Missouri, and its principal branch runs in the direction of Detroit.^[175]

The principal towns in the Illinois Territory are Kaskaskia, Cohokia, and Goshen.^[176] Shawne town [186] lies on the Ohio, and is an inconsiderable place.^[177] Here are 292several taverns, a bake-house, and a few huts. Some of the settlements in Illinois are ancient, and very considerable.

Formerly there were about twenty tribes of Indians inhabiting the Illinois Territory; and a large proportion of the lands here still belong to them. The Winnebagoes still reside on Fox river; the Saukies on the upper part of the Ouisconsin; and the Ottiganmies near its mouth.^[178]

Fort Massac is situated in Illinois, near the mouth of the Ohio.^[179] Its site is elevated; but the adjacent country is frequently overflown.

The Illinois Territory possesses a fine climate, a variety of rich soils, and many peculiarities, which are calculated to render her, at some future period, a very distinguished state.

About ten miles beyond Cumberland river, on the Ohio, is the river Tennessee. This river finds its most remote sources in Virginia, passes through the state of Tennessee from east to west, and in its course enters the State of Mississippi. This is the largest source of the Ohio. It pursues its course about one thousand miles before it enters the Ohio, and at its junction with it, its width is about six hundred yards. It is navigable, for the largest vessels, to the Muscle Shoals, a distance of two hundred and fifty miles. These shoals are about twenty miles in length; but the navigation here may be easily improved.^[180]

293At no far distant period, a considerable part of the produce of the Ohio, and its tributaries, will, probably, find a market in West-Florida, instead of New-Orleans. This will be more particularly the case, should Pensacola become the property of the United States; and of this event there can be no doubt. It will soon become ours by purchase, or by [187] conquest. For an honest purpose Spain, or her secret ally, will not wish to own it; she will, therefore, forfeit it by transgression, or when it shall become useless to her in this respect, she will sell it. There can be no doubt, that, ere long, East-Florida, and that part of West-Florida which belongs to Spain, will become ours.^[181]

Pensacola, Mobile, and other places on the coast of West-Florida will soon become places of immense trade. The great cause of the business and wealth of New-Orleans, is the union, which there takes place, between a vast inland and foreign commerce. Such a union at Pensacola, or Mobile would be much more advantageous. The planters on the Ohio and its waters, could carry their produce to these markets at much less expense; and the shipper could here freight vessels for its exportation at a lower rate.

Boats on the Ohio, instead of passing into the Mississippi, may ascend the Tennessee as far as the Muscle Shoals, or within fifty miles of them, and then entering the Tombecbee by a canal, which may easily be made, pass down to Mobile. The current of the Tennessee to the Muscle Shoals is gentle, and boats may be pushed up the 294stream without much expense. Coosee river, a branch of the Alabama, also approaches very near to the Tennessee; and from the Alabama to the river Perdido, near Pensacola, the distance is very small.

If these ideas are correct, the trade of New-Orleans, both foreign and domestic, will not increase so rapidly as might otherwise be expected. It is well known, that the expense attending the navigation of vessels up the Mississippi to New-Orleans, and in passing from thence to the mouth of the river, is frequently great. Vessels are sometimes from thirty to sixty days in ascending this river to the city; and in descending it the detention, both on the [188] river and at the pilot-ground, near its entrance into the Gulf of Mexico, is often considerable. Besides, the danger attending this navigation is far from being small.

Should the produce of that part of the Western Country, which lies on the Ohio, pass into the Tombecbee and Alabama rivers, Mobile will rapidly increase; and should the United States acquire a right to Pensacola, it will probably become, in time, one of the greatest commercial places in the world. No maritime city will, in this event, possess a back country so extensive, rich, and populous; and none more completely combine the energies of inland, and foreign commerce. The harbour of Pensacola is one of the best in the world.

Before I leave the Ohio, it may be well for me to introduce a general idea of the courses of this river. Its minor sinuosities are too numerous to mention. From Pittsburg, this river proceeds in a north-west course about thirty miles;—west-south-west, five hundred miles;—south-west, one hundred and seventy miles;—west, two hundred and eighty miles;—south-west, one hundred and eighty miles;—and the residue of the distance, west-south-west.

295The Ohio is a wonderful river. Its utility, and beauty are highly conspicuous. Its banks, where not cultivated, are covered with a thick growth of trees, and bushes, which, bending over the water, yield a prospect at once serene and rich. Some of the banks, especially on the upper parts of the river, are covered with lofty forests of sycamores.

The fish in this river are of various kinds; among which is the catfish, weighing from five to one hundred pounds. The fish in the western waters are generally very fat.

Whilst on the Ohio, and near the mouth of the Cumberland, I witnessed a deer hunt, if it may so [189] be called, which excited no little sensibility. Several keels were passing silently down the current. It was noon day, and the river was full, expansive, and calm. The men on board of the boats espied, a mile ahead, several deer swimming across the river. One of the deer had proceeded nearly half way across, when the skiffs belonging to two of the keels were manned, and went in pursuit of him. Each skiff contained two oars-men, and one in the bows with a boat hook. The rival skiffs ploughed through the silver stream. The deer retreated towards the wood; but one of the boats outsped him. He was now between two enemies. The scene was interesting: I almost prayed for his rescue. For twenty minutes the fate of this guileless animal was doubtful. The calm which prevailed seemed to listen to the dashing oar, the successless blow, and the almost breathless efforts of the poor deer. At length all was silent; the boats were on their return;—no deer was seen in the river. The tired, yet sprightly oar, told the tale of death; and nature, for a moment, seemed to darken on the scene.

The deer was a buck, two years old, remarkably large, and elegantly proportioned. When I beheld this bleeding victim, and heard the boatmen’s song of triumph, my 296heart involuntarily exclaimed, if men must butcher, for Heaven’s sake, let them not do it in mirth!

Viewing the Mississippi from the banks of the Ohio, its appearance is narrow, and confined; but it is, generally, much wider, and in many places expansive and elegant.

All the sources of the Mississippi, above the Ohio, are not yet known. The Missouri, however, is, no doubt, its largest tributary, and perhaps its main branch. The principal source of the Mississippi above the Missouri appears to proceed from Bear lake.

[190] The river Missouri is several thousand miles in length, and runs in a direction north of west. This part of the country has been explored by order of the American Government; but so vast is it, that many years must elapse, and much population be introduced into it, before information, to be fully depended upon, can be obtained respecting it. We have, by the efforts of Lewis and Clark,^[182] and other hardy spirits, obtained some general ideas respecting the vast tract of country, between the mouth of the Missouri and the Pacific Ocean, which will assist us in making more particular discoveries; but at present, caution should be exercised in relation to every record which is made upon this subject. The American people are considerably interested in it, and, of course, will be disposed to believe every assertion in favour of the country. Our government, it appears, are preparing for several expeditions into the interior of the Louisiana purchase. It certainly is well to be engaged, during the present season of 297tranquillity, in ascertaining our boundaries; in order that our resources may be known, and that, having the whole state of the nation before us, we may know what policy to pursue towards its respective parts, how to guard against evils which may be apprehended, and to promote interests which may present themselves to our view.

The principal town in the Missouri Territory is St. Louis. This town is very pleasantly situated, about fifteen miles below the river Missouri, and contains two or three hundred houses. St. Genevieve is situated about seventy miles below St. Louis.^[183] Near this place are inexhaustible lead mines. St. Louis is rapidly increasing, and is the centre of the fur trade, west of the Mississippi. It is probable that the country west of the river Missouri is elevated and broken, and contains a great variety of ores. It is probably too, a very rich fur country.

[191] How far the Louisiana purchase will ultimately prove beneficial to our country, time alone can determine. It was certainly of consequence to us to possess the right of deposit at New-Orleans; and this, it is presumed, might have been acquired without a purchase of the soil. We were rich enough in territory, and in every other physical means of rendering ourselves a great and a happy people. I am aware, however, that wealth is beneficial, if it does not corrupt. In the hands of the virtuous, it is a means of doing good.

I am also sensible that there was a powerful motive for the purchase of the soil, in relation to a change of government in the city of New-Orleans. To this place the people of the west would, as a matter of course, resort for a market. In relation to this particular, lies the principal motive, and the principal objection with respect to the 298purchase; and whether it shall prove beneficial or otherwise, depends upon ourselves. If the manners of this city shall not be improved by our own population, who may emigrate thither, where will be the moral advantage of the purchase? Indeed will not our citizens, by its being their own territory, more readily imbibe, and more freely communicate the corrupt practices of this place? But, if by the praiseworthy conduct of our citizens residing in New-Orleans, immorality shall be checked, and good principles introduced, then, indeed, it will prove a purchase, not only for our country, but for mankind. Should this be the case, those demoralizing effects, which could not but have been apprehended from the intercourse between our citizens and the mixed multitudes of Louisiana, will not only be removed, but in the place of these exotic weeds will flourish our own indiginous plants. There were, no doubt, other motives for the purchase, but whether they ought [192] to have operated under such a political system as ours is questionable.

The United States resemble, in many particulars of their history, the Jewish nation; and it is not improper to say that we are a peculiar people. We seem to be treading in every direction, upon the heels of the savages: they are receding, and we are following them.—Happy shall we be if we eye the hand which leads us, and the stretched out arm which supports us!—happy will it be for us, if instead of corrupting those whose places we occupy, we do them good, and teach them to be virtuous!

When we behold the United States every day extending their boundaries, and increasing their resources—when we see the moral and physical energies of a single constituent part of the Union, in possession of more real force than many of the states of Europe, we are astonished at our own power, and our own responsibility. Millions are yet 299to be influenced by our example. It is impossible that so much power, and so much enterprise should remain inactive. Our western boundary will, ultimately, be the Pacific Ocean; our northern, the North Pole; our southern, the Isthmus of Darien; and on the ocean we shall have no competitor. May our justice ever direct our power, and may we be the patron and protector of oppressed nations.

Before I proceed from the Ohio towards New-Orleans, it may be observed that what is generally understood by the Western States and Territories, is all that part of the territory of the United States, which lies west of the Alleghany mountains, and east of the Mississippi river.

I have expressed a few general ideas upon this vast and excellent tract of country. Much more might be offered; but it would be both useless, and improper to retail the records of geographers. [193] However few may be my statements upon this subject, they shall be dictated, exclusively, by my own observations.

I may add, that the timber of the west is much more various than that of the east, and equally useful. The sugar maple tree is here so numerous, that they would probably supply the whole United States with sugar. The Spanish oak is peculiar to the west. Here too, are the lynn tree, gum tree, sugar tree, iron-wood, aspen, crabapple, bark-spice, leather-wood, &c. &c. The sugar tree produces a sweet pod, like that of a pea, and furnishes very nutritious food for swine.

The weather in the west is milder than on the Atlantic coast; but it is also more changeable. Rheumatism, pleurisies, consumptions, bilious complaints, &c. cannot but prevail here. The exhalations from the earth, and rivers is great, and the general aspect of the people, situated near these rivers, is pale, emaciated, and feeble; but in these respects the country, in time, will be less disagreeable.

300The earth here, in summer, is covered with a luxuriance of vegetation, which, together with the absence of varied scenery, sicken the eye, and heart of the traveller. In some places one can, after a shower, almost hear the earth teem. The very atmosphere seems fattening to the cattle; and garden weeds grow in great profusion upon the uncultivated grounds. The cane, which grows here, bears a wide leaf, like those of herds grass; and for cattle it is palatable, and nourishing. The stalk of the cane is used for angling poles, and for making chairs, looms, &c.

I now suppose myself on the banks of the Mississippi. The average width of this river is about a mile, and its length, from the mouth of the Ohio, is [194] about twelve hundred miles. It contains a great many islands, some of which are several miles in length, and its course is very serpentine. Owing to the soil in its vicinity being alluvian, it frequently changes its course. Sometimes its tributaries inundate the whole country on both sides of it. The banks of the river are generally a little higher than the adjacent country; the water, therefore, which rises over them never returns, but passes off into the swamps. These swamps are very extensive, and being incapable of cultivation, will ever render the climate of this part of the country insalubrious. During freshets the water of the Mississippi breaks through points of land of the width of many leagues. By these inundations vast trees are uprooted, carried into the main channel of the river, and there lodge. In consequence of these circumstances the navigation of the river is very dangerous. Hundreds of boats, laden with valuable cargoes, are annually wrecked, and destroyed here. Here too, sudden squalls, attended with severe thunder and lightning, are frequent. Even on the Ohio, there is, at times, such an undulation of the water, as to render being in a small boat very dangerous. Upon the 301appearance of squalls on the Mississippi, the boats put ashore as soon as possible; and it is interesting to see them moving in with so much labour, bustle, and difficulty. There is frequently much danger in landing, and the boats in doing so sometimes make a great crash.

The principal obstructions to the navigation of the Mississippi, are sawyers, planters, and snags. The first are trees, the tops of which are fixed in the bed of the river near a strong current; which causes them to rise and sink, so as to resemble the action of a saw in a mill. These make a formidable appearance, and are very dangerous. Sometimes [195] the sawyers continue under water for fifteen or twenty minutes, and then instantaneously rise above the surface, to the distance of eight or ten feet. They frequently make their appearance very near the bows of the boats, in which case much judgment, and activity are necessary to escape the impending destruction. Some of the sawyers do not appear above the surface at all; and by being concealed, are the more dangerous. Planters, are trees likewise lodged in the bed of the river, but they are immoveable. These trees, at first, lie horizontally; but by the force of the current, the end up the river is raised, and sometimes presents a sharp point considerably above the surface of the water. Snags, are trees which lie upon the shoals of the river; and the branches of them extend into the channel. There are several difficult passes on the Mississippi, in which these obstructions abound. The principal of these passes, are the Devil’s Race-ground, and Picket-Island passage.

During the last summer two steam boats, and many boats of other kinds were sunken by planters. Floating barrels of flour are often seen in the Mississippi; and hundreds of barrels of wheat, and hogsheads of tobacco, lie on its shores in a state of ruin.

302The thunder and lightning which prevail on this river are truly grand; and the sunken islands here are interesting. This effect was produced by the earthquakes, which were experienced in the west in 1811. The traveller too, on the bank of Mississippi, frequently sees huge masses of earth fall from them into the bed of the river. These masses sometimes constitute an acre, and are covered with a heavy growth of trees. The noise, occasioned by the falling of the banks, is as loud as distant thunder, [196] but far more impressive. It speaks of nature’s final grave.

There are other dangers incident to the navigation of the Mississippi. The falling banks frequently crush the boats laying along side of them. Boats too, are sometimes dashed to pieces upon huge masses of wood, which, having lodged near the shore, continue to accumulate so as to produce near them a very rapid current. The fogs, which sometimes exist on this river, are so thick that one cannot see an object at the distance of fifty feet. The whirlpools in the Mississippi appear formidable; but they are not sufficiently large to endanger boats of a considerable size.

The general aspect of the country on both sides of the Mississippi, from its junction with the Ohio to the Gulf of Mexico, is perfectly level and exceedingly rich. A very few situations near the river are higher than the adjacent country, and the soil of these eminences is sandy and sterile. The timber in this part of the country, is in some places very large, but generally it is small, and apparently young. The soil here is subject to such frequent revolutions, that sufficient time is not allowed for trees to obtain their full growth. The banks of the river are not, generally, high enough to warrant settlements upon them; consequently almost the whole country, from the Ohio to Natches, is a pathless wilderness. This is 303particularly the case with respect to the western bank of the river. Much of the Louisiana purchase is not worth a cent.

Below Natches, there are a great many superb plantations, and the country is under a high state of cultivation. Here, however, the water of the river is confined to its bed by a levee, or embankment.

[197] The cane thickets near the banks of the Mississippi are very luxuriant; and the extensive groves of willows upon them form an impervious shade, and present a gloomy aspect.

About fifty miles below the mouth of the Ohio, on the west bank of the Mississippi, stands New Madrid.^[184] Owing to destructive freshets and other causes, it is unflourishing.

After leaving this side of the river, I entered Tennessee on the east. This state is bounded on the Mississippi, from the Iron Banks to one of the Chickasaw Bluffs,^[185] a distance of about one hundred miles. The length of the state is four hundred miles. That part of Tennessee, which lies on the Mississippi, is a perfect wilderness, and inhabited, principally, by Indians. In and near this part of the state reside the Cherokees and Chickasaws. The Chickasaws have always been well disposed towards the United States, and their physiognomy and general appearance are much in their favour. The language of this tribe, and of the Choctaws is very similar. The Cherokees were once very numerous; but being much disposed to war, and frequently contending unsuccessfully with the northern Indians, their numbers have become small, and their spirits broken. The Chickasaws are likewise the 304remnant of a great tribe. They originally resided further west; and were slaughtered by the Spaniards, towards whom they still entertain much hatred.^[186]

The principal rivers which run directly from the state of Tennessee into the Mississippi, are the Obian, Forked, and Wolf rivers. Just below the latter is Fort Pike.^[187] Some parts of Tennessee are so mountainous as to be even incapable of cultivation; but its soil generally is fertile, and on the banks of the rivers very rich. Some of its mountains are stupendous. The state is exceedingly well watered; [198] and its principal rivers are the Mississippi, Tennessee, Cumberland, Holston, and Clinch. The face of the country is uneven, and presents a pleasing variety of aspect. Although its eminences are fertile, and its levels rich, it contains some barrens, similar to those of the Carolinas and Georgia. The productions of this state are unlike to those of Ohio; and it also produces large quantities of cotton, tobacco, and some indigo. It is too, well calculated for rice. Its commerce is similar to that of Kentucky; but it derives many of its foreign goods from Virginia, by the way of Richmond, as well as from Philadelphia, and Baltimore, by that of Pittsburg.

Indigo is raised upon a rich, deep, and mellow soil well pulverized. The seed is sown in beds, during the month of April. The stalk is cut three times a year, and steeped for eight and forty hours. The impregnated liquor is then drawn off, and lime water added, to produce a separation of the particles of indigo from the aqueous fluid. This fluid is then again drawn off, and the indigo spread to dry. Afterwards it is pressed into boxes, and whilst soft, cut 305into square pieces. Finally, these pieces are placed in the sun, until they become hard, and then are packed for the market.

The state of Tennessee is, in many respects, peculiar. It will become a great, and a polished republic. Its mountains, rivers, minerals, fossils, botany, zoology, and natural curiosities, all promise developments of much interest to the philosopher, politician, and man of science.

In marching through the woods, near the banks of the Mississippi, nature presents, to the traveller from the east, a novel aspect. In moving hundreds of miles, he does not see a single rise of land. His eye is pained by the absence of variety; and he feels [199] that he would undergo much labour to obtain the prospect of a hill-country. Here too, in the spring and summer, he sees nothing around him but the most umbrageous growth of trees, bushes, and cane. The earth here teems with a sickening luxuriance; and the perpetual hum of myriads of musquetoes, and other insects, renders the rays of the sun doubly oppressive. The musquetoes near the Mississippi are very large, and not at all ceremonious. When in the woods, my nights were rendered completely sleepless by them.

In bathing in this river, I found the water remarkably soft. It is well known that the human body is much less buoyant in fresh than in salt water; but the water of the Mississippi is conspicuous in this respect: many persons, who were good swimmers, have fallen into this river, and in a moment were seen no more. After travelling in the heated wood, and being much bitten by musquetoes, I found bathing in the Mississippi very refreshing. The water of this river is always thick, so that a tumbler full of it will deposit a sediment of one sixteenth part of the whole. It is, however, not very unpalateable, and is, I think, not unwholesome.

306The fish in this river are numerous, and large; but they are too fat to be delicate. Geese, ducks, and swan, are also numerous here. The latter are very beautiful. Wild ducks, with their broods, are frequently seen moving in the coves of the river, and numerous paroquets occupy the trees on its banks.

The swan is well known; but pleasure is derived from dwelling upon the beauties of this bird. There is nothing very interesting in its colour; but its milk-white feathers, connected with its large size, renders this species of bird an object of attention even in this respect. The grace of its motions, however, [200] is indescribably charming. The mild majesty of its appearance, when moving upon the calm and glassy bosom of the water, and the wonderful elegance of the positions and motions of its neck, excite admiration. Poets feign, that the swan, in the hour of death, beguiles the pains of dissolution with the most plaintive notes. It is no doubt true, that her voice, at such a season, charms the ear of those who love to feel innocent and resigned. The ways of nature are wonderful; and she enables man, by her operations, to catch some faint impression,—to receive some prophetic foretaste of the sublimity of her principles, and the eloquence of her sentiments.

The paroquet is smaller, and more beautiful than the common parrot. They go in flocks, and their notes are rapid, harsh, and incessant. It is remarkable, that this bird is subject to a disease resembling apoplexy.

There is much music near the Mississippi. Amidst the silence of the wood, rendered even more impressive by the umbrageous aspect of the trees, by the teeming earth, the darting serpent, the creeping turtle, and the hum of innumerable insects;—amidst this silence, the bag-pipe, or violin, or fife, strikes the ear with an almost celestial sound. 307Sometimes the busy silence of nature is interrupted by the fall of a bank of the river; and sometimes the whoop of the Indian, hunting in the wood, tells the traveller to tread lightly in his path.

On board of a boat, on the Mississippi, into which I stepped for a few hours, there was a lad from the Highlands of Scotland. He had with him his bag-pipe, trimmed with plaid, and he tuned his instrument to several interesting airs, connected with the history of his country. During his exhibitions, there was in his countenance something singularly wrapt, which, to those acquainted with the fortunes, manners, [201] and national characteristics of the Scotch, could not fail to produce much effect.

Whilst in Tennessee I met with a whole tribe of Indians, who were about going to war with some tribe situated north-west of them. As they were about to cross the Mississippi, some persons on board of a descending boat whooped at and insulted them. The Indians fired upon the boat, but no injury was done. How natural is it to man to persecute the unfortunate and weak! How natural is the abuse of power! The Indians are a wronged, and an insulted people. Their cruelties, no doubt, surpass description.—Their conduct is by no means justifiable; but how can we rationally expect from them that human mode of warfare, which is the consequence of civilization? Their revenge, is the natural effect of their weakness. They improve every opportunity to lessen that power, which, they fear, is destined to destroy them. And what should they do with prisoners? They have no extraordinary means of feeding them, and no castles for their confinement. Besides, think of the examples which have been set them by England, by France, by Spain, and by America. Many a harmless, humane, and magnanimous Indian, has been murdered, in cold blood, by the sons of 308civilization; and many a charge of robbery and murder, committed by white men, has been made against the peaceable, and inoffensive children of the forest. But I wish to be understood, that I believe the disposition of the General Government of the United States towards the Indians, to have ever been fair and friendly.

The boatmen on the western waters are great marksmen, and pride themselves in sharp shooting. One morning, whilst on the Mississippi, a solitary little duck, probably not a fortnight from the shell, passed the bows of the boat, on board of which I [202] then was, and the captain immediately raised his rifle to blow this little being to pieces. How wanton in cruelty is man! The young duck, conscious of its danger, plied, with all its might, its little feet and wings. I pitied its pert and apprehensive spirit, and seizing the captain’s gun said, he is yours,—I will give you a dollar for him as he is. The captain accepted my offer, and the little duck hiding himself under the reeds of the shore, we passed on.

After being sometime in Tennessee, I crossed the river, and entered the Missouri Territory. There is no great difference between the soil and aspect of the country here, and those of the Tennessee side of the Mississippi. In the latter, however, there are some rises of land, called banks and bluffs, which present a sandy and an unproductive appearance. The bluffs are known by the words first, second, third, and fourth bluff. The aspect of the second one is interesting, and is evidently one of the ends of those mountainous ridges in Tennessee, which, passing into South-Carolina and Georgia, terminate in the vast savannas of the Alabama and Appalachicola.

The musquetoes are more troublesome on the Missouri than on the Tennessee side of the river. The smoke of my fire would hardly keep them at a respectful distance; 309and the only way to avoid, by night, being completely blinded by them, was, to cover my face with small bushes. No covering of cloth could resist their stings.

The river near the lower part of the Missouri Territory is very crooked, and the islands numerous. These islands are formed by the current, during freshets, cutting through the soil and making new channels for itself. The islands are covered with trees and bushes, but are low, and frequently overflown. Near some of these islands I saw many pelicans. [203] This bird interested me because it is both a scriptural and poetical bird. David said, “I am like a pelican of the wilderness,” and the poets of fabulous times supposed that she nourished her young with her own blood.

The seasons of the greatest rise of the Mississippi are early in the spring, and in July. During the latter period the crops are on the ground, and of course much damage is sustained. But here I may again observe, that the country on the Mississippi, for a thousand miles below the Ohio, is, with a very few exceptions, a perfect wilderness; and that much of it will never admit of cultivation. The rise of the river, frequently appears to be occasioned by some secret causes, operating beneath the surface. Indeed it is to be presumed, that many of the sources of the river proceed from under the surface of the adjacent land.

On the banks of the Mississippi, I frequently passed the graves of the boatmen. The rudely sculptured monuments of their lowly dwelling, prove that there is still charity for the dead; and that a fellow-feeling seldom leaves, under any circumstance, the human breast.^[188]

310Having progressed some way in the Missouri Territory, I again crossed the river, and entered the Indian Village at one of the Chickasaw Bluffs. The settlement here is considerable; and the Chickasaws, being friendly to the United States, evince in their appearance, the beneficial consequences of a peaceful policy. White men of little or no reputation frequently intermarry with this tribe; and the Indians are much pleased with the connexion. On this Bluff is situated Fort Pickering.^[189]

The evenings in this part of the country are delightful; especially in the woods, far from the haunts of men. The aspect of the heavens is here [204] peculiarly serene; and the human mind is disposed to dwell upon the power, wisdom, and goodness of God; the station of man in the scale of being; his probationary state, with all its relations and events; and his hopes of happiness beyond the grave.

The traveller, in proceeding from a cold to a warm climate, is forcibly impressed by a sense of the revolutions of the seasons; especially if he commences his tour in the midst of winter. Those who are acquainted with astronomy, who know what are the effects of the annual motion of the earth; and particularly the beneficial consequences of its declination, will, if they have any sense of moral power and goodness, unite with Milton in his sublime fiction:—

“Some say He bid his angels turn askance

The poles of earth, twice ten degrees and more,

From the sun’s axle; they, with labour,

Push’d oblique the central globe.”

The remembrance of those aspects in nature, which are peculiar to the various seasons of the year, are delightfully 311painful. There is a religious influence in them;—they are connected with the recollection of a thousand events which mark the stages of man’s pilgrimage through life.—The winds of spring; the autumnal evening; the equinoctial gale; the frozen ground; the January thaw; all eloquently speak of childhood, the vicissitudes of time, and of a better world.

In addition to the difficulties, attending the navigation of the Mississippi, already mentioned, there are here many bends, points, and sand bars, which cause the current to set in a great variety of directions, and render necessary, not only constant watchfulness, but much practical knowledge.

[205] Whilst in the Missouri Territory, and not far from the bank of the river, a bald eagle, perched upon a tall and blasted oak, attracted my attention. It was in the forenoon, and he viewed the sun with an unblinking eye. Whilst I was admiring the strength of his form, and the majesty of his aspect, a wild turkey flew from a neighbouring tree, and alighted on the ground. The eagle immediately pounced upon his prey; but ere he could effect his object the turkey was shot. I might too, have killed the eagle, but admiration and awe prevented me. I felt that he was the emblem, and the inspiration of my country; and, at that moment, I would not, for ten thousand worlds like ours, have cut a feather of his wing.

There is something wonderfully impressive in the nature of this bird; and it is not surprising that the Romans were devoted to it. When quite a lad, I mortally wounded an eagle, supposing it to be a hawk. It was a half hour before it died, and during this time my heart was filled with mingled emotions of regret and awe. I felt as though I were witnessing the last moments of some mountain hero, who had fallen upon the hills of his fame. This noble 312bird fixed his eyes upon me, and without a single blink supported the pangs of death with all the grandeur of fortitude. I could not endure his aspect,—I shrunk into my own insignificance, and have ever since been sensible of my inferiority.

After remaining a day or two on this side of the river, I crossed it and entered the State of Mississippi. This state is bounded by this river west; north by Tennessee; east by Georgia; and south by West-Florida. The principal rivers in this state are the Yazoo, Pearl, Big Black, Tombecbee, and Alabama. The grand chain of mountains, called the Alleghany, terminates in this state. On the [206] Tombecbee is situated Fort Stoddard.^[190] The city of Natches is the only considerable settlement in this state. The aspect of the country is level, and generally very fertile; but some parts of it are sandy and unproductive. Its principal products are tobacco, cotton, indigo, and rice. Live oak of the best quality abounds here. In this state are tribes of the Creeks, Cherokees, Choctaws, and Chickasaws. These tribes are acquainted with agriculture, and with some manufactures. The Natches Indians, formerly a powerful, and, in many respects, a civilized people, were exterminated by the French in 1730.^[191] The Creek Indians consist of about twenty tribes, who united for the purpose of exterminating the 313Choctaws. The names of these tribes are derived from those of several rivers in the states of Georgia and Mississippi, and the whole are called Creeks, from the great number of streams which pass through these parts of the country. They are sagacious, bold, and jealous of their rights. General Jackson has made great havoc among them.

On the twenty-sixth of May I passed through a little settlement called Point Sheco. Vegetation here was, at this time, very backward. The inhabitants are principally French. The small-pox prevailed among them, and they appeared sallow and emaciated. The land here is very rich; but indolence characterizes the place. The people, however, possess many herds of fine cattle, and much poultry. The musquetoes here are literally intolerable. My journal says, “they are three times as large as Yankee musquetoes; my face, neck, hands, and feet are covered with their inflictions, and for several nights I have not slept a moment.” The people in this part of the country always sleep under close curtains, called musqueto bars.

The Mississippi, a little below this place, is very [207] wide and expansive. I have spoken of its islands. There are about one hundred and thirty between the mouth of the Ohio and New-Orleans. These islands are sometimes formed by the lodgment of floating trees upon a bank in the bed of the river, and by after accumulations of the various substances which freshets bring from the country above. The river here deposits a sufficient quantity of floating soil to produce vegetation, and the island is soon covered with a thick growth of bushes and trees. The current of the Mississippi moves from three to five miles an hour, according to the rise and fall of its water. I have also spoken of the boats on this river. They are 314as various, and their number as great, as on the Ohio. The usual passage of barks, and barges, from New-Orleans to the mouth of the Cumberland, on the Ohio, is ninety days; sometimes, however, they are six months in getting up thus far, and sometimes lose all their hands on the way, by sickness. These boats generally carry from sixty to seventy men each, whose compensation is from fifty to eighty dollars a trip. Many old sailors prefer this inland navigation to that of the ocean. Here they spend their second childhood; and venture only on those little seas which met the earliest efforts of their boisterous career. The vessels of which I have been speaking, are from eighty to one hundred tons burthen. The freight from New-Orleans to the Cumberland is about five dollars a hundred weight. Down the river the price is fifty per cent less.

The cotton-wood tree abounds near the Mississippi, and is said to be the New-England poplar; I think, however, that this is not the case.^[192] Here too are bulrushes;, such, probably, as concealed the child Moses on the Nile. There is a very interesting connexion between the scenes and productions of [208] nature, and the simple stories of inspiration. In view of it the enlightened agriculturalist is charmed. The situation of our first parents, the patriarchal days, and the history of the Judean Shepherds, furnish him, whilst he is tilling his ground and tending his flocks, with sources of reflection, which at once delight his mind, improve his heart, and prepare him for that state of innocence and love, which awaits the good beyond the scenes of time.

The animal and vegetable worlds furnish an inexhaustible source of illustration and imagery; and in the scriptures, 315they are employed with all the simplicity of truth, and the sublimity of inspiration.

The sight of the bulrushes, connected with several other circumstances, forcibly reminded me of the River Nile, and the story of that forsaken babe, who, by the might of Heaven, conducted Israel from Egypt to the Promised Land, in type of that Great Leader, who is now calling man from the thraldom of iniquity to the liberty of the heavenly Canaan. On the Mississippi there are arks, and alligators, which resemble the crocodile; and the general appearance of this river is similar to that of the Nile.

Not far from the Iron Banks, before mentioned, are the Chalk Banks; and a little below the latter is the Bayau de She.

The St. Francis is the principal river in the Missouri Territory, excepting the river of this name; and it enters the Mississippi just below Tennessee. It is navigable about three hundred miles, and at its mouth is two hundred yards wide. White River runs in the same direction, and enters the Mississippi about eighty miles below. Its width is about one hundred and fifty yards.

Whilst in the state of Mississippi, I crossed a high, broken, and fertile ground, constituting about two hundred acres.

[209] After passing over hundreds of miles of country perfectly level, such an appearance was highly gratifying. On this rise of ground were a few scattering trees, the kinds of some of which I had never before seen. Here grew the China tree, of a beautiful appearance, and bearing fruit of an inviting aspect, but of an unpleasant taste.^[193] I stopped a moment to receive instruction—moral beauty only can be depended upon.

316This situation reminded me of St. Pierre’s interesting, and affecting story of Paul and Virginia. On one of the broken ridges of this rise of ground stood a raven. He looked as though he had seen a hundred winters, and his appearance inclined me to believe Hesiod’s extravagant account of the longevity of this bird. There are many interesting ideas in relation to this species of bird: In this country they build on high trees; and in Europe in old towers. The Romans hold them in high estimation; and God employed them to carry food to the Prophet Elijah.

After leaving this interesting situation, I passed a place called Point Pleasant, where there are a few small dwelling houses.^[194] The country here is perfectly level, and the river wide and beautiful. Here I met with many live oaks, so valuable for ship timber; but I think that on no part of the Mississippi do they so abound as in the State of Georgia. This species of tree grows tall and straight, and has but a very few branches; these, however, are generally large, and well calculated for knees in building.

Between this situation and the city of Natches is a place in the river called the Grand Gulph. Here nature presents an aspect, which blends the sublime and beautiful. She has here, with a majestic air, given to the river an expansive bend; and renders its waters wide, deep, and gentle. On one side of it she presents [210] an interminable lawn, and on the other a broken hill, thickly covered with a variety of trees. How great are the privileges of man! How small his merit, and yet, how noble his nature!

The expansive calmness of this scene, viewed from the hill, suggests to the human heart great and deep things, too sublime for human utterance.—Things which point 317to the future development of mind, to the high destinies of virtue, and to the nameless peace of heaven. When on this hill it was evening; and the moon, mild in majesty, moved in an unclouded course. She seemed to say, in the language of Young, “How great,—if good, is man!” Under such circumstances the human mind sensibly feels, that every thing, by the sacred and benevolent constitution of nature, belongs to the virtuous man. He here dwells upon St. Paul’s declaration, “All is yours!” and fears not “life, or death, or principalities, or powers.” The good man has, indeed, every thing to excite his hopes; and if his mind is enlightened by science, and polished by taste, he has every thing to excite his admiration.—Is he acquainted with architecture?—“The heavens declare the glory of the Creator, and the firmament showeth his handy work.” Is he fond of music?—let him listen to that of the spheres. Does eloquence charm him?—he hears the voice of God in his own heart, persuading him to be good.

The River Arkansas enters the Mississippi from the west, about one hundred miles below the St. Francis. This river is certainly navigable about five hundred miles, and is, probably, from fifteen hundred to two thousand miles in length. The country on this river will hereafter be known for its productions and trade.^[195]

A little below this river is the Cypress Bend. Here grow considerable forests of this interesting [211] tree. They are here covered with moss, and suggest the ideas of old age and death. The growth of the moss, however, is not confined to this species of tree; and it probably is created by some peculiar quality in the atmosphere of the river. This moss sometimes grows to the length of fifteen 318feet, but generally is much shorter. It proceeds from the bark of the tree, and as to its formation and manner of growth, resembles rock-weed on the seashore. Its colour is that of the dove. Being fibrous, it is laid in water, then dried, threshed, and used as a substitute for horse hair in the stuffing of mattresses, &c. It is, when well prepared, nearly as valuable as hair, and is exported in considerable quantities. The sources of this article on the Mississippi are inexhaustible, whole forests are here covered with it.

In this part of the country too, grows the celebrated plant called misletoe. It is found on the trunk and branches of trees, and may be propagated by rubbing its berries against the bark. This is frequently done by the thrush, in wiping its bill after feeding upon them. Ancient superstition venerated this plant; and it was hung upon the neck to prevent the effect of witchcraft. In modern times it is considered good for epilepsy and other diseases.

In several places near the Mississippi there are situations where hurricanes have prevailed; and it is interesting to see the contrast between their desolated path, and the smiling aspect of the contiguous country. In some places here hundreds of lofty trees have been dashed by the hand of violence; and the spectator inspired by the view, finds a source of regret in not having actually witnessed the grandeur of ruin’s march.

Great minds only imitate the grand in nature. She never proclaims her works, but leaves them to [212] speak for themselves. Sampson possessed a portion of her spirit. Upon his journey to Timnath, he slew a lion; but passing on, told neither father nor mother of it.

After having experienced, for several weeks, much labour and many privations, I arrived at the city of Natches, which is situated on the eastern bank of the 319Mississippi. In approaching the city, from the banks of the river, nothing is seen but a village of ragged buildings under the hill, a little back of which the city itself is located. This hill is very high, and steep, and its soil is sandy. Along the banks of the river, under the hill, the boats, both in going up and down, frequently stop, either for a market, or information. The number of buildings here is about one hundred, and they are principally occupied for shops and boarding-houses for the boatmen. It is perhaps one of the most wretched places in the world.

The ascent to the city is very steep; and on each side of the road are considerable precipices. The city itself is singular in its aspect; being irregular, and having large unoccupied grounds in different parts of it. After rising the hill, one sees, in front, a wide street leading into the country; on the left a spacious grove of trees, back of which is a precipice of two hundred feet; and on the right of the grove are the principal streets and buildings. Many of the houses and stores are large; but there are not many buildings here which can be termed elegant. The courthouse is inconsiderable, and the theatre is a very ordinary building. In the evening the city is remarkably silent.—Scarcely a person is to be seen in its streets after dark. This place is conspicuous for its hospitality.