Volume 8 — Evans’s Pedestrious Tour of Four Thousand Miles—1818 (continued 3)

For twenty miles west of this river there are some rises of land, the soil of which is light, and the growth of timber upon them is principally white oak. In travelling this distance I crossed several creeks, with much difficulty and hazard. Up and down the bank of one of them I marched for hours before I could find a single tree or log to float upon. Just before reaching this creek a bear crossed my path; but having no dogs I could not overtake him.

Soon after leaving the last mentioned creek, [108] arrived at another, which furnished more means of crossing, but in the employment of which there was the greatest peril. A tree lay part of the way across the channel of the creek with its top towards me; but being very large its trunk had sunk far below the surface of the current, so that I could walk only on its crooked branches. Having my gun too, I could employ but one hand in supporting myself, and sometimes could reach no limb for the employment even of that. After crossing a part of the channel, I found the large end of the tree several feet below the surface of the water; and it was disposed to sink further. At the distance of several feet from the end of it was a high stump; and from this to the shore there was a space of water a few feet in depth. I could take no other course than to note the direction and extent of the body of the tree, walk quickly to its end, spring to the stump, and from that to the shore. I effected my object; but was never more sensible of the protecting hand of Providence. The water of the creek was exceedingly cold, and the chill of evening was approaching.

It was now the 17th of March, the ground was frozen, and the travelling very rough and painful. In the forenoon 209I passed the Bay Settlement.^[99] This place contains several scattering houses, which are occupied principally by French people; and the aspect of the whole country is that of an illimitable marsh. Some parts of this tract of prairie are too wet for cultivation. A few miles east of the Bay there are several rises of land, the soil of which is light and well adapted to the cultivation of wheat.

Towards evening I reached the River Raisin. At the distance of a few miles east of it, I entered the Military Road, of which the public papers have spoken, and which leads to the old roads in the vicinity of Detroit.^[100] This road is cut through a perfect wilderness [109] of a large growth of timber. It is very wide, and entirely free from stumps. The plan of it, and the manner in which the work has been executed, speak favourably of the judgment and fidelity of the military department.

The travelling on this road is, in the spring of the year, very heavy; and a person on foot is much annoyed by the sharp points of bushes which are concealed by the mud.

At the commencement of the road the country becomes rather elevated, is highly fertile, is covered with a superb growth of timber, and is intersected with streams well calculated for mills.

On the River Raisin stands Frenchtown, an ancient and considerable settlement.^[101] The inhabitants on the river 210are principally French; but the American population is rapidly increasing. The soil here is of an excellent quality, and in high repute. The river, at the settlement, is about sixty rods wide, and it is navigable to Lake Erie, a distance of about twelve miles. The river has been explored for about seventy miles above Frenchtown; and beyond this distance the country is but little known. The land above the settlement is said to be even better than in its immediate vicinity. The name of the river comports well with the nature of the soil; it may be rendered, in English, river of grapes.

I approached this river with a light step and a heavy heart. Hundreds of my gallant countrymen had there fallen victims to British barbarity. Who has heard without horror, of the massacre at the River Raisin!^[102] When I arrived at this bloody field, the snow had left the hillocks, and the grass began to vegetate upon the soldier’s grave. The sun was setting in sadness, and seemed not yet to have left off his weeds. The wind from the north, crossing [110] the icy vales, rebuked the unconscious spring; and the floating ice, striking against the banks of the river, spake of the warrior souls, pressing for waftage across the gulph of death.

In speaking of our too general employment of militia, I suggested, that in another place I should offer some reflections upon the subject of war.

Nothing but the influence of example, and the ability of 211the human mind readily to accustom itself to crime and carnage, prevents us from being shocked by sanguinary contests between civilized communities. How astonishing is it, that nations, acquainted with the feelings and principles of humanity, instructed by the precepts and example of the Prince of Peace, and living in the hopes of Heaven, should send armies into the field to butcher each other! The practice is indeed a disgrace to human nature; and the mournful consequences of it must make the Angels weep. How often has the hostile foot suddenly assailed the ear of apprehension! How often has war driven man from his home, and blasted forever his plans of domestic happiness! How often is the wife called upon to mourn her husband slain!—The father his son, the pride and the glory of his old age!—The son his father, the instructor and the guide of his youth!—The brother, his brother of love!—And the maiden, the blooming youth,—the secret joy of her soul!

A state of war is demoralizing in many points of view. It opens a wide door to selfish ambition,—to intrigue, avarice, and to all their concomitant crimes. A habit of engaging in war is very soon acquired; and then the feelings, and pecuniary interests of a considerable portion of the community, renders, to them, such a state desirable. Under such a state of things, the defence of national liberty is often the insincere apology for invasion; and the splendour [111] of military parade, captivating the heart, darkens the understanding, and silences the voice of conscience. The true nature of freedom is here overlooked; passion supplies the place of reason; and false glory is substituted for national respectability. Upon these grounds, the eclat of military achievements undermines the virtue of the state, and military tyranny usurps the place of rational government.

The evil effects of war are incalculable. They continue 212to operate for ages, and materially affect the ultimate destinies of nations. War, however, is sometimes necessary: but self defence,—in the largest sense of the phrase; self defence, both at home and on Nature’s Commons;—self defence directly and indirectly, is the only ground upon which it should be waged. Here Heaven will always smile, and freemen always conquer.

On the 18th and 19th of March I passed the battle grounds of Brownstown and Magagua.^[103] Near the former place Major Vanhorn, commanding a detachment of one hundred and fifty men, was suddenly attacked, on all sides, by British regulars and Indians. The Americans made a spirited resistance, and after suffering severely effected a retreat. Soon after this affair another detachment, under Lieutenant Colonel Miller, consisting of three hundred of the veteran 4th regiment, and also about two hundred militia, were sent to accomplish the object of Vanhorn’s march, which was to support Capt. Brush, who was encamped at the River Raisin, and who was destined for Detroit with provisions for our army then in possession of Sandwich. The enemy anticipating another attempt to accomplish the object, immediately obtained reinforcements, and lay in ambush near the former battle ground. The Indians were commanded by Tecumseh; and the combined forces amounted to about seven hundred and fifty men.

[112] Colonel Miller, although he proceeded with caution, experienced a sudden attack. Perhaps there never was one more furious; or the resistance to which evinced in a greater degree the characteristic union and firmness of disciplined troops.

213On the right of the Americans there was a dark wood, and on their left was a small prairie across which was an eminence covered with trees and bushes. In the wood, on the right, the Indians lay in ambush, with a breastwork between them and the Americans. On the small height, on the left, there was stationed a detachment of Indians; and the British regulars occupied other favourable positions. The onset was tremendous. The veteran Miller immediately extended his lines, to avoid being outflanked, ordered a detachment to dislodge the enemy on his left, opened a brisk fire upon the main body of the assailants, and then drove them at the point of the bayonet. At the same time, the enemy was driven from the height in a most prompt and gallant manner. The British regulars retreated; but the Indians still obstinately contended from behind the scattering trees. The regulars, in the mean time, were rallied; and the battle became more general, and more equally maintained. At this eventful moment, the mighty, yet cheering voice of the intrepid Miller, like the roar of a torrent echoing from a thousand hills, inspired with a new impulse his faithful,—generous troops.—In one moment the victory was ours. Early in the engagement, the veteran Colonel was, accidentally, thrown from his horse; and some suppose, that they can still see upon the ground the impression of his gigantic form.

In examining this interesting battle ground, I found, by the numerous scars on the trees under which the Americans fought, that the enemy made a great many random shot. It is to be presumed, [113] that soldiers generally fire too high, especially when the object is at a considerable distance; not considering that a ball, in its passage, describes a circular line. Every soldier should be acquainted with the most simple principles of enginery; and he should 214practice upon those principles, for the purpose of ascertaining their relative influence upon the character of his piece. General Wayne seemed to be aware that soldiers are apt to fire too high. He was often heard to say to his troops, in battle:—“Shin them my brave boys!—shin them!”

In passing the battle grounds all was silence. Not a leaf was in motion. The misty air seemed conscious that here was the place of graves; and no sound was heard but the footsteps of the stranger who had come to rejoice and to mourn.

Before leaving these interesting, yet melancholy scenes, I may add, that where one is acquainted with the particulars of an engagement, he can view, with much gratification, the positions which the parties occupied, and draw, from their influences upon the result, important lessons equal to those of actual experience.

From the River Raisin to Brownstown the land is highly valuable, and presents some fine scites for farms. The soil is rugged and rich, the timber upon it lofty and elegant, and the streams remarkably well calculated for manufacturing purposes. In viewing these fine tracts I could not but pity those poor fellows whom I have often seen settled upon a barren and rocky soil, scarcely fit for the pasturage of sheep. Unacquainted with the quality of land, and yet devoted to the employment of agriculture, they still cleave to their possessions, which instead of enriching them, will break down their constitutions with labour, and keep them poor all their days. Such persons, however, need not leave the land of [114] their birth and the society of their friends. Let them still employ their industry at home; not upon a less thankless soil.

From Brownstown to Detroit the land is diversified with small meadows and fertile eminences. Here there is a 215beautiful view of the river Detroit. The rises of land consist of a rich black mould, upon a limestone bottom. At the foot of them there are fine springs, and on their summits a good growth of hard wood.

The day after leaving Magagua I arrived at Detroit, to which place I had long looked for that rest and those comforts, which would enable me to make new exertions. In marching to this place I was constantly employed, with the exception of one day, for seven weeks. The distance from New-Hampshire to Detroit, by the rout which I took, is about one thousand miles. Ere I reached the city my clothes became much torn, and in going through the bushes my eyes were greatly injured. Within one hundred miles east of Detroit, I crossed upwards of thirty rivers and creeks.

The prospect in approaching this place is picturesque and interesting. At the distance of several miles, the traveller, in moving along the western bank of the river, sees several large buildings, and several windmills in the town of Sandwich. This place is very considerable, and is situated on the Canada side of the river, opposite Detroit. The general appearance of this part of the country is truly European.

The city of Detroit is very beautifully situated.^[104] Its principal street and buildings are upon a bend of the river, of a mile or two in length, and they occupy the whole extent of it. The bend forms a semi-circle, and the banks of it are gently sloping. The houses and stores are near the summit of the bank, [115] and the slopes form pleasant grounds for gardening. The streets intersect each other at right angles, and the situation is calculated for a large and elegant city. The Fort and Cantonment lie about 216forty rods west of the main street. From this street a spacious gate opens to them, and at a little distance from it, the road forks and leads to them respectively. The contrast between the numerous white buildings in both of these places, and the green grass contiguous to and around them is very pleasant. A stranger, in visiting the Fort and Cantonment, is agreeably impressed with the neatness of their appearance, and with the order and discipline which are maintained there among the troops. The apartments of the officers too present a studious and scientific aspect; and seem to warrant the idea, that in the officers of our army are united the character of the well informed gentleman, and intrepid soldier. This military post is a very important and responsible station; and the government has made for it a very judicious selection of officers. Several of these officers are of the veteran 4th regiment; and others of them have seen the darkened sky red-hot with battle.

On the evening of my arrival at Detroit, I addressed the following note to Governor Cass: “A gentleman from New-Hampshire wishes for the privilege of introducing himself to Governor Cass. He is upon a pedestrious tour, and therefore trusts, that the roughness of his garb will not preclude him from the honour of an interview. March 20th, 1818.” The Governor replied with his compliments and with the request that I would call upon him the next morning at 9 o’clock. At the time appointed I waited upon him, and was received with that unaffected friendliness and manner, which so well comports with the institutions of the country.

[116] Governor Cass,^[105] who is the Supreme Executive magistrate of the Michigan Territory, resides just below 217the Cantonment; and General Macomb^[106] occupies an elegant brick house, erected by General Hull, situated at the upper end of the street. The former is remarkably well calculated for the Governor of a frontier Territory: in him are united the civilian and the warrior. Governor Cass lives in an unostentatious style; his aspect evinces benevolence; his disposition is social, and his manners are plain.

The style in which General Macomb lives is at once elegant and becoming. His military reputation is well known; and in private life he is conspicuous for affability, politeness and attention to strangers.

Soon after entering Detroit, I met with a trifling incident, which interested me by exciting my curiosity. Among a crowd of gazers here, I saw a face which I remembered to have known a great while before; but where, I could not tell. How astonishingly impressive is the expression of the human countenance! The next day the man passed the Hotel where I sojourned, and I took the liberty to invite him in. Twenty years had elapsed since I had last seen him; and then we were mere children, pronouncing in the same class our A, B, C.

A considerable part of the population of Detroit are French; but the number of Americans there, is daily increasing, and will soon become very numerous. The Government warehouse here is very large, and the Government wharf is long and commodious. There are several other wharves at Detroit, and the vessels lying at them 218make a pleasant appearance. From the lower part of the town the view, up the river, is remarkably fine. Here one may see, for the distance of four miles, a beautiful expanse of water, several islands almost lost to vision, and near [117] them, on a point of land, several large windmills. The river itself yields to none in point of utility and beauty. Opposite to Detroit it is about one mile wide, and its current moves about three miles an hour. The whole length of the river is thirty miles; and from Detroit to Lake St. Clair the distance is nine miles.

In Detroit there is much good society; and hospitality is a conspicuous trait in the character of the people. The Lyceum established here is patronized by the principal men in the place; and those who take a part in its discussions display extensive information, much correct reasoning, and no little eloquence. There is also an Academy in this place; and it is superintended by the learned Mr. Monteith. In time, this city will become conspicuous for its literature, and for the propriety of its customs and manners. In relation to politics, it will take, in some respects, a new course; and in this particular be an example worthy of imitation. In point too of municipal regulation and statutary rule, the Michigan Territory will be eminently correct. There is no state or territory in the union, which merits so much attention on the part of the General Government as the Michigan Territory. In the vicinity of Detroit there is, for the distance of thirty miles, only the width of the river of this name between the United States and Upper Canada; and above Lake St. Clair, there is between the two countries only the width of the river St. Clair for the distance of forty miles. It will be of great consequence, in a national point of view, to have the systems of education, laws, customs, and manners, of the Territory such as to outweigh the counter influence of 219those of the British in its neighbourhood. As to the population of this territory, the General Government will do well to afford every facility and encouragement to [118] its increase. By increasing the strength of our frontier settlements, we shall lessen the influence of the British Government over the savages of the west, and be able to meet their incursions more promptly, and with greater effect.

At Detroit there is a theatre; and it is under the exclusive management of the military officers stationed there. These gentlemen, actuated by liberal and polished views, have erected a stage for the gratuitous instruction and amusement of the public. The scenery of the stage is executed with an appropriate taste, the dramatic pieces are selected with judgment and delicacy, and the performances are quite equal to any in the country. Indeed the officers of our army, at Detroit, possess much genius and erudition; and the correctness of their conduct, in point of morals and manners, entitle them to much praise.

The state of agriculture in the Michigan Territory is far from flourishing. In the immediate vicinity of Detroit it is deplorable. The French have no ambition to excel in this honourable and profitable calling. There is here, however, every thing to encourage an active husbandman. The soil is fertile and the climate perfectly congenial to the growth of New-England productions. A yankee farmer, carrying with him to this place his knowledge of agriculture, and his industry, might soon acquire a very handsome estate. The market for country produce in Detroit is always high; and large sums of money are annually paid there for provisions, which are transported across the lake from the upper parts of the states of New-York, Pennsylvania, and Ohio.

The inhabitants of Detroit, wishing to keep their money in circulation among themselves, and also wishing to see 220their own agriculture improving, [119] would afford great encouragement to farmers who should settle in their vicinity. Here too all mechanical trades would be promptly patronized. Various articles of American manufacture are sent to this place from the city of New-York, and meet here a market affording great profits. Joiners, brick makers, shoe makers, and almost all other mechanics would here find ample patronage. Day labourers too, would obtain here ready employment and good wages. I may add, that lumber and wood are remarkably high in this city; and that wood sellers and lumber dealers might here realize from these occupations very handsome profits.

I deem it my duty to express a high opinion of the Michigan Territory, because facts warrant such a course, and it is important that those of my fellow-citizens, who may be disposed to emigrate to the west, should possess every information upon the subject. No one need suppose my declarations to be those of a land speculator. I have not the most remote relation to such business, and never expect to have.

In travelling more than four thousand miles, in the western parts of the United States, I met no tract of country which, upon the whole, impressed my mind so favourably as the Michigan Territory. Erroneous ideas have heretofore been entertained respecting this territory. Indeed it has, until lately, been viewed as scarcely within the jurisdiction of the United States. Even some late geographers seem to have collected no other information respecting it, than what had been written by their ancient predecessors. Some of this information, especially as it respects Detroit, does not apply to the present times.

The soil of this territory is generally fertile, and a considerable proportion of it is very rich. Its [120] climate is delightful; and its situation novel and interesting. As 221to the former, it possesses a good medium between our extreme northern and southern latitudes; and with respect to the latter it is almost encircled by the Lakes Erie, St. Clair, Huron, and Michigan. New-England fruits may here be produced in great perfection; and the territory is capable of being rendered a great cider country. In point of health too, this territory yields to no part of North America. There is no place in the world more healthy than the city of Detroit. Consumptions are never known there.

The situation of this city, although level, is very commanding. On the Ohio the view of the traveller is confined; but here one appears lifted above the adjacent country, and may survey it as from an eminence.

The Michigan Territory is generally level, but in many places gently diversified. The growth of timber here is principally black walnut, sugar maple, elm, sycamore, and pine. There is not, however, an abundance of the latter. The streams within this territory are very numerous, and well calculated for manufacturies of every kind; and the fisheries here are exceedingly valuable. Besides vast quantities of many other kinds of fish, caught in the waters within and contiguous to this territory, during the spring and summer season, thousands of barrels of white fish are taken here in the fall, and prepared for the home and foreign markets.^[107] This species of fish is of the size, and appearance of the largest shad; but are far more valuable. Wild fowl of all kinds greatly abound here.

The trade of the Michigan Territory is already very considerable, and it is rapidly increasing. Besides the business transacted between different parts of the territory itself, and with the Indian [121] tribes in the neighbourhood, 222it transacts considerable business with the upper parts of the state of New-York, Pennsylvania, and Ohio; and also with the inhabitants of Upper Canada. Its shipping is employed on Lake Erie, Huron, and Michigan, either in the fisheries, in freighting, or in trading along the coast. In the summer season there is in Detroit a considerable concourse of strangers, from the states by the way of Buffalo, who furnish considerable sums as passage money to the ship owners on Lake Erie; and in the spring of the year the neighbouring Indians resort thither to dispose of their furs, and to purchase guns, ammunition, blankets, and other articles.

Detroit is a central situation for the fur trade in the North-West;^[108] and there is a considerable commercial connexion between this place and Chicago and Green Bay.

The establishment of a weighty fur company at Detroit, would result in much individual and public advantage. The English, by their extensive fur trade in the north and west, acquire an influence among the Indians, which similar establishments on our part would completely counteract. This influence renders the Indians hostile towards us, and in the event of a war between this country and Great-Britain, would blend the prejudices of the Englishman with the ferocity of the savage.

The English derive immense profits from the North American fur trade. The North-West company employ in this business, exclusive of savages, upwards of fifteen hundred men. The articles for the Indian market are cheap, and of course the requisite capital for this business is small.

It was my intention, after spending a few days at Detroit, 223to pursue my tour through the wilderness, between the Lakes Huron and Michigan, as far as [122] Michilimacinac; from thence across the North-West Territory to the Falls of St. Anthony, and then to trace the Mississippi to New-Orleans. Whilst at Detroit, however, I concluded to change, in some measure, my course.

There was evidence of a hostile disposition on the part of the Indians situated on my proposed route; the season of the year rendered travelling in this direction almost impracticable; and my views and business would not permit the delay which this last mentioned circumstance would occasion.

Upon leaving Detroit I crossed Lake Erie in a small vessel, and arriving at Presque Isle, pursued my course to New-Orleans, taking in my way all the states and territories of the west.

It may not be amiss, before I notice my trip across the Lake, to communicate some facts and reflections respecting the country above Detroit, many of which facts I was enabled to obtain by my residence there. Ere I speak upon this subject, however, I will, for a moment, prolong my stay at this city.

The sufferings of this place during the late war, are scarcely describable. The apprehension of death is far more terrible than actual dissolution. After the capitulation of General Hull, Detroit was thronged by Indians, and they were continually making the most aggravating requisitions. These they enforced by savage threats. There was not a moment of domestic peace for any one. The inhabitants did not dare to fasten their doors: for if they did the Indians would cut them to pieces with their tomahawks, and revenge the opposition upon the inmates of the house. When families were about to sit down to their tables, the Indians would come in, drive every one out of 224the room, and feast themselves. Their constant demand, at every dwelling, was for [123] whiskey; and to grant or refuse it was attended with great danger. If it were granted, intoxication and consequent bloodshed would be the effects; and upon a refusal, the Indians would present their long knives and threaten immediate death.

A lady, who resided at Detroit whilst it was in possession of the British, and who is remarkable for her good sense and intrepidity, related to me the above and many other facts relative to this trying state of things. She said, that upon one occasion several Indians came to her house, and upon their approach it was thought advisable for her husband to conceal himself in the garret. The Indians demanded whiskey of her; and upon being told that there was none in the house, they presented several knives to her breast, and in their rude English called her a liar. Although in momentary expectation of death, she still denied her having whiskey. Her husband, hearing the bustle below came down, and with the assistance of two or three others, who accidentally came that way, drave the Indians from the house. Immediate revenge was anticipated. It was the practice of the Indians, particularly at this time, to resent the smallest opposition. Supported by their civilized patrons, they felt their consequence; and their pride was as easily touched as that of a savageized Englishman. The house of the lady was soon surrounded, and day after day the Indians came to search for her husband; but not being able to find him, the object was, apparently, abandoned.

Immediately after the massacre at the River Raisin, the inhabitants of Detroit were called upon to witness a heart-rending scene. The Indians from this field of carnage were continually arriving at the city, and passing through its streets, with poles laden with reeking scalps.

225I am here disposed to make a few remarks relative [124] to the late war. I know that in so doing I shall incur censure; but I write for those who are too noble to conceal their defeats, and too modest to proclaim their victories. The genius, and energy, and resources of the United States should have accomplished every thing.

I confess that I did not rejoice at the beams of peace. Premature peace does not promote the cause of humanity. We declared war for the defence of essential rights, which had, in the wantonness of power, been repeatedly invaded. In this war we sought indemnity for the past, and security for the future;—that security which punishment extorts from injustice:—that security which the fine and the lash guarantees to honest and peaceable communities. Did we effect our object? —Oh no! Whatever may have been our victories, our defeats were disgraceful. The administrators of the government were deficient in information, in system, and in energy. They sought an effect without an adequate cause; and the people sacrificed the glory of the country to the pride of political competition. As to the opposition, they pursued false morals until they lost sight of true patriotism.

There was virtue enough in the community; but affliction was necessary to raise it from the ruins of thoughtless and passionate rivalry. We were upon the eve of humiliation,—the eve of new, and omnipotent moral impulse, when peace unexpectedly presented herself. Not the peace which the victor magnanimously gives to the humbled foe, but that peace which misguided apprehension yields to the dark calculations of policy. The British Lion ceased to roar, and instead of contending until we had pared his princely paws, we were ready to forgive and to embrace him. Our own Eagle despised us; and with a fearless, anxious eye, and ruffled plume, [125] retired to the elevated 226and gloomy promontory of her glory and her disappointment.

It is the general opinion at Detroit, that Hull was prompted to surrender the place, not by bribery, but by cowardice. Could he have seen the dreadful and humiliating consequences which actually arose from this base and unpardonable step, the suggestions of conscience would have controuled his apprehensions, and his brave men would not have been deprived of their fame. Indescribable must be the feelings of patriotism and courage, when official cowardice yields them to a foe, whom their hearts have already conquered. The brave man regards his friends and his country a thousand times more than himself; and he would court a hundred deaths rather than wound their feelings, or forfeit their love. In the hour of danger, when the national flag is assailed, his soul tells him that his countrymen will hear of this, and he dedicates himself to battle, to glory, and to death! But I am sensible that there is a higher principle: the man who fears no evil so much as self-reproach, will always do his duty.

Immediately upon the capitulation of Hull, a Yankee soldier of the 4th regiment thought it high time for him to take care of himself; and he immediately devised a plan by which he hoped to outwit General Brock. The soldier secretly left the fort, went to a barber and had his hair and whiskers closely shaved; and then obtained from a tailor such garments as were most fashionable for traders. After remaining about the city for a few days, this citizen-soldier applied to the British General for the necessary passes, stating that he had come to Detroit for the purposes of trade, &c. The General kindly referred him to the proper officer, his passes were promptly prepared, and he returned to his friends.

227[126] I will now commence my proposed excursion above Detroit.

The strait called the river Detroit becomes enlarged just above Hog Island,^[109] and forms Lake St. Clair. This lake is about twenty-five miles in length. Its depth is inconsiderable. The principal islands in it are Harsen’s, Hay, Peach, and Thompson’s. Formerly there were several Indian tribes situated on the western side of this Lake; and the Ontaonais^[110] occupied the other side: but the Iroquois, a fierce, bloody, and restless tribe, have long since dispossessed them.

The River St. Clair, between the lake of this name and Lake Huron, receives the waters of the three vast Lakes beyond it. This river is about forty miles long. The bed of the river is strait, contains many islands, and its banks are covered with lofty trees. At the head of this river is Fort St. Clair.^[111]

The river Thames enters Lake St. Clair on the Canada side. On this river is situated the Moravian village, where General Harrison routed the British and Indians under Proctor and Tecumseh.^[112] On this river too is 228General Simcoe’s paper town called London.^[113] Along the banks of the Lake and river St. Clair, the country, generally, is fertile, and pleasingly diversified. The sugar maple tree abounds here, and here too are elegant forests of pine timber well calculated for the common purposes of building, and also for spars. I may add, that on the banks of the Thames are villages of the Delawares and Chippewas.^[114] The principal townships of the Six Nations are situated near the greatest source of this river.

Before I leave Lake St. Clair, I must say a word respecting the old veteran of this name.^[115] It is indeed too late to do him justice:—he no longer wants [127] the meat which perisheth. But we may spread laurels upon his tomb; and soothe the spirit, which, perhaps, even now hovers over its country, and seeks the fame which his merit achieved. The mass of mankind judge of plans, and of their execution, not by their abstract wisdom, or energy, but by their results. Many a man, however, gains a victory by a blunder, and experiences defeat through the instrumentality of his wisdom. Accident often settles the question; and we may presume, that sometimes it is emphatically the will of Heaven, that the strongest and wisest party should be overcome.

General St. Clair devoted his whole life to the art of 229war. He was a scientific man, a man of talents, and always brave. His heart was formed for friendship, and his manners were interesting. In many battles he prevailed. In 1791 he was defeated.—So was Braddock, so was Harmer. Indian warfare is full of stratagem and terror. Troops will not always stand this test, and one man cannot effect every thing. General St. Clair had to contend with even more formidable enemies:—with misfortune,—with reproach,—with the ingratitude of his country. He retired from an ignorant and uncharitable world to his favourite Ridge.—Here he died. Who would not shun the thronged and splendid path of the successful warrior, to bend over the lonely grave of the venerable St. Clair!

Lake Huron is, excepting Lake Superior, the largest collection of fresh water known to civilized man. Including the coasts of its bays its circumference is upwards of one thousand miles. Its islands are very numerous. The names of some of them are La Crose, Traverse, Whitewood, Michilimackinac, Prince William, St. Joseph, and Thunder Bay. The island of St. Joseph is upwards of one hundred miles in circumference, and belongs to the English, who have a company stationed there.^[116]

[128] On the American side of Lake Huron, and between it and Lake Michigan the country is a perfect wilderness. The principal Indian tribes situated in this tract are the Ootewas and Chippewas. The bay of Saguina on this side of the lake, is eighteen miles in width, and in length about forty-five miles. Two considerable rivers 230and several small ones pass into this bay. The Bay of Thunder lies near the Straits of Michilimackinac, is nine miles in width and very shallow. Here terrible storms of thunder and lightning are frequently experienced.

On the Canada side of Lake Huron, from Lake St. Clair to the river Severn, which passes near Lake Simcoe and enters the first mentioned Lake, the country is but little known, and is covered with thick forests. These forests reach far beyond the Severn, and indeed are separated from the unexplored wilds, which probably extend to the Pacific Ocean, only by the lakes, rivers, and portages which lie in the track of the British Fur Companies. The rapids upon these rivers are very numerous. The lakes too, in this part of the country, are numerous, but small. The principal houses of the British Fur Companies are established at the Lakes Abitibee, Waratouba, and Tamiscamine.^[117] The North-West Fur Company send every year from one hundred to one hundred and fifty canoes, laden with merchandize, to their posts on Lake Superior. These canoes are made of very light materials, generally of birch, are flat on the bottom, round on the sides, and sharp at each end. They carry about four tons each, and are conducted by about ten persons. These boats generally move from Montreal about the beginning of May. Before the canoes arrive at their place of destination, they are repeatedly unladen and carried, together with their cargoes, across many portages. The course is toilsome and perilous; but the prospect of [129] gain, and the habit of enduring fatigue render the employment tolerable. The principal food of the navigators is Indian meal and the fat of bears. In the trade with the Indians, the beaver skin is the medium of barter. Two beaver 231skins are equal to one otter skin; and ten of the former are generally allowed for a common gun. Here is a profit of at least 500 per cent, exclusive of all costs.

Michilimackinac is a small island situated in the upper part of Lake Huron near the commencement of the strait which connects this Lake with Lake Michigan.^[118] The aspect of the island is elevated and irregular. The fort of Michilimackinac is situated on this island, near to which are several stores and dwelling houses. This is a very important post. The strait and also the lakes which it connects abound with fine fish; the principal kinds of which are herring, white fish, and trout. The Michilimackinac trout are bred in Lake Michigan, and are celebrated for their size and excellence; they sometimes weigh sixty or seventy pounds.

The strait of Michilimackinac is about fifteen miles in length. The course of its current, into Huron or Michigan, depends upon the winds; and is, therefore, very irregular. At times it is exceedingly rapid.

Lake Michigan is about two hundred and fifty miles in length. Its breadth is about sixty miles. Including the curvatures of its bays, its circumference is about nine hundred miles. There are a great many rivers which rise in the peninsula between this Lake and Lake Huron, and which pass into the latter. That part of this peninsula which lies along the south-east of Lake Michigan is but little known. The names of the principal rivers here are Marguerite, Grand, Black, and St. Joseph. The latter is by far the largest, and may be ascended about one hundred [130] and fifty miles. On this river is situated Fort Joseph.^[119]

232Green Bay, on the western border of Lake Michigan is about one hundred miles in length; and its breadth, at its entrance, is about twenty-five miles. It contains several islands; and there are in its vicinity tracts of low and wet ground. At the bottom of the bay is a little fall,^[120] beyond which is a small lake called Winnebago. This lake receives Fox river from the west. At the foot of this bay too, is a fort,^[121] and on the west of lake Winnebago is situated a village inhabited by Indians of this name. On the Malhominis river, which flows into Green Bay, is also situated an Indian village containing various tribes. The principal of them are the Lake, Pouteoratamis, and Malhominis.^[122] A few families of the Nadonaicks, whose nation was nearly exterminated by the Iroquois, reside here. The Puans once occupied the borders of this bay, and Puans bay was originally its name. The Puans were fierce, and exceedingly hostile to neighbouring tribes. At length these tribes combined against them, and their numbers were greatly diminished.

Lake Michigan and Green Bay form a long point of 233land called Cape Townsand. Between this Lake and Lake Winnebago are situated the Ootewas. There are several rivers on the west of the last mentioned lake. One of these is Chicago river, near to which is Fort Dearborn.^[123] At Chicago the United States have troops stationed.

Would to Heaven, that I could forever forget lake Michigan! Her envious waves have, recently, buried a youth of noble promise. With melancholy pride I remember, that whilst at Detroit, I numbered among my friends the lamented Lieutenant Eveleth. He possessed a genius peculiarly calculated for the engineer department, to which he belonged; [131] and by his mild, yet manly deportment, inspired, even in strangers, both esteem and affection. His countenance was martial; but with this aspect was blended a sweetness of expression which is rarely witnessed.—

“Weep no more,” brother soldiers, “weep no more,

For Lycidas, your sorrow, is not dead,

Sunk though he be beneath the watery floor;

So sinks the day star in the ocean bed,

And yet anon repairs his drooping head,

And tricks his beams, and with new spangled ore

Flames in the forehead of the morning sky:

So Lycidas sunk low, but mounted high,

Through the dear might of Him who walk’d the wave.”

The tract of country lying between Lake Michigan and Lake Superior is rather sterile. The falls of St. Mary, situated in the strait between Lakes Huron and Superior, are mere cascades. In this strait there are several islands. 234Below the falls is situated Fort St. Mary.^[124] In this strait are caught fine fish of many kinds. The Indian tribes, who have heretofore occupied, and some of whom still occupy this part of the country are the Nougua, Outchebous, Maramegs, Achiligonans, Amicours, Missasangues, Hurons, Nepicrenians, Salteurs, Ontaouais, Amehouest and Otters.^[125] Many of these tribes are merged in others of them who have been more powerful, or less unfortunate. The Iroquois, blood-thirsty and incursive, scattered all these tribes, and nearly exterminated some of them. There is, near the falls of St. Mary, a company of traders, several houses, a manufactory, mills, &c. But the vicinity of this place is a perfect wilderness.

Lake Superior is probably the largest collection of fresh water in the world. It is but little known. Its circumference however, has been ascertained to be about fifteen hundred miles. Storms frequently [132] assail it; and a swell, like that of the ocean, dashes upon the high and ragged rocks of its coasts. It contains many considerable islands and bays, and the soil around it is far from being fertile. Some of the islands are from fifty to one hundred miles in length. There are about forty rivers, which pour their tribute into this vast lake, some of which are of considerable magnitude. In the vicinity of the grand portage,^[126] between this lake and the Lake of the Woods, there are established several trading companies. Lake Superior is well stored with fish, the principal kinds of which are white fish, trout, and sturgeon. The latter are of a very superior quality.

235This lake is remarkable for the pure and pellucid appearance of its water. The fish in it can be seen swimming at a great depth; and the vessels upon it seem to move in air. These effects are, probably, caused, in part, by the peculiar materials of the bed of the lake, and partly by extraordinary evaporation. This last idea sanctions the belief, that in this part of the country the quantity of rain is very great. Some places in the neighbourhood of this Lake are swampy, and some are elevated and fertile.

To the north and west of Lake Superior are several other lakes, the principal of which are the Lake of the Woods, Rainy Lake, Bear Lake, and Red Lake.^[127]

Opposite to about the centre of Lake Superior, and on the river Mississippi, are the falls of St. Anthony. This river, above the falls, runs, principally, through Bear and Red Lake; one branch of it, however, runs below them pretty much in the direction of the Missouri River. Both below and above the falls of St. Anthony an almost innumerable number of rivers pour their waters into the Mississippi, some of which are several thousand miles in length. The Missouri is the principal source of [133] the Mississippi, and the latter name ought to be substituted for that of the former. Between the cascades of St. Mary, and the falls last mentioned, lies the North-West Territory.^[128]

236The Indians, in the north and west, are generally fierce and untameable. They are so attached to the hunter state, that here they are somewhat industrious; but in every other occupation they evince great characteristic indolence. Some of the tribes are politic in all their proceedings; and husband their property and strength. Others, however, are regardless of the future, and look only to the present moment. All are degenerating, in a greater or less degree, and some, through the operation of ordinary causes, are becoming extinct.

Before I leave these immense waters to return to Detroit, I may notice, for a moment, the vast inland navigation which they afford. From the City of New-York to New-Orleans, by the way of the Lakes, the distance is about four thousand miles; and yet, without the aid of canals, the land carriage through this whole route is only about thirty miles. Such is the wonderful superiority of our country relative to inland navigation. Owing to this easy communication between the interior and the sea board, and to the other advantages of a residence in the west, it is to be presumed, that in the course of two centuries the western world will be as populous as the Continent of Europe. Such are the prospects presented to the politician in this country, and such the interest which they are calculated to excite in the breast of the American patriot, that one, in relation to this subject, would wish to live a thousand years. Admiration and concern occupy his mind. He wishes to watch the progress of events; and to apply, from time to time, the salutary principles of rational government. Aware of the oscillating nature of popular [134] sentiment, he fears that in some unfortunate moment the waves of popular feeling will be agitated, and that they will continue to dash even after the cause of their vexation shall have been forgotten.—He realizes, that in 237proportion to the extent of national territory, viewed in connection with the increase of population, the accumulation of wealth, the progress of arts, the habits of refinement, the corruptions of luxury, and lastly, with the dregs of that spirit of independence, which, in its purest essence, blends charity with suspicion, and forbearance with energy; but, in its deterioration, substitutes for these, a contracted jealousy, and a blind resentment:—he realizes, that in proportion to the extent of national territory, viewed in relation to these circumstances, will be the horrors of political concussion, and the miseries of consequent anarchy or despotism. Such are the effects, which are to be apprehended from the rapid and ultimate increase of the United States, that the American patriot, in view of her prosperity and of his own dissolution, may well exclaim, Oh, save my country!

It is with nations as with individuals; adversity is equally requisite for both. This is the only school where true wisdom can be acquired, and where the native luxuriance of the heart can meet with due restraints.—May Heaven guide our destinies by his chastening mercy!

I now suppose myself at Detroit, and about to leave it for the purpose of crossing Lake Erie. I speak not in vanity, but to do justice to the hospitality of this city: I arrived here an entire stranger, and left the place surrounded by friends. How grateful to the traveller, worn down by fatigue, is the hand of friendship and the smile of approbation! Upon leaving the Government wharf, I felt more than I should be willing to express:—The world do [135] not understand the language of the heart. I consider myself under particular obligations to A. G. W. Esquire. He voluntarily sought my acquaintance, and in the most interesting manner convinced me of his regard. This gentleman is conspicuous for his independence and 238literary attainments; but his greatest characteristic is native modesty.

Whilst at Detroit, I was much interested and amused by the conduct of an Indian; both by the principles upon which he acted, and the manner with which he displayed them. One morning, whilst conversing with my friend Doctor W. in came an Indian, and putting a finger to his mouth said, with a patient aspect and in a plaintive tone, “very sick.” The poor fellow had been suffering much from the tooth-ache, and he wished to have it extracted. He sat down, and placing his hands together, and interlocking his fingers he evinced, during the operation, much stoicism mingled with an interesting resignation. After the tooth was removed, he asked for whiskey; and immediately upon drinking it gravely marched off, leaving his tooth as the only compensation for the whiskey and surgical aid.

In going down the river Detroit, I was so happy as to have the society of General Macomb, Major M. Capt. W. and Lieut. B.

The river, a mile below the city, is much wider than it is opposite to that place; and a little further down there is a narrow and marshy island about four miles in length. Here we landed and refreshed ourselves from the General’s provision baskets. Upon this island we found an almost innumerable number of ducks; they were heard in the grass in every direction. Vast flocks of wild fowl are almost continually swimming in the river Detroit.

Soon after leaving this island we arrived at Grose Isle.^[129] The latter divides the river into two channels. [136] Its 239soil appears to be good, and its timber valuable. Upon this island, situated about three miles above Malden, there is a small fort in which the United States have stationed a few troops. The situation is very pleasant; and as a military post, is of consequence. A little below this place is a beautiful summer residence belonging to General Macomb, and which, I believe, is called St. Helena. The outlet to Lake Erie, between Malden and the adjoining land, is very narrow. Malden itself is a wretched looking place. It appears, indeed, like a scalp shop. One store, a warehouse, and a few small buildings constitute the whole of this celebrated position. I saw no inhabitants there excepting two or three crippled Indians.

After remaining one night at Grose Isle, I proceeded to Malden, and from thence entered the lake. During the night the wind was high, and we run back a considerable way to avoid several islands called the Sisters. Towards morning, the wind being fair, we continued our course. At daylight we experienced a gale of wind, and run for Put-in-Bay. Our Captain was a very experienced seaman, and perfectly understood the navigation of the lake; but having got among a cluster of little islands, situated near the bay, he was, for a moment, bewildered. Our situation was highly interesting. The darkness of the gale seemed to contend with the dawn; and fancy could almost see it hold the reins of the car of day. The waves dashed, our sloop ploughed the foam, many little islands reared, through night, their ragged tops, our Captain exclaimed, “where are we?” and all was hurly. We were now passing over the battle waves of the gallant Perry. Our little gunless keel moved where whole fleets had stormed. In fancy’s ear, the cannon’s roar had not ceased to reverberate; the undulating wave seemed [137] anxious to bury the 240dead; the wind, through our scanty shrouds, whispered in the ear of death; and the green wave, reddened by battle, greedily sported around our sides.^[130]

Many of the islands near the Bay are not larger than a dwelling house. Their sides consist of ragged rocks, and on their summits are a few weather-beaten trees.

The storm continuing, we remained at anchor in Put-in-Bay four days. During this time I frequently went ashore, and surveyed the island of this name. Wild fowl are numerous here, and in the woods there are swine. The island is uninhabited. Its soil and the growth of its timber are very good. The former abounds with limestone.

This island is rendered interesting by its forming the bay in which our fleet was moored both before and after its great victory; and also by its containing the graves of some of those who fell in the engagement. My visit to these graves excited melancholy reflections. The parade and confusion of battle had passed; and nothing was heard but the chill blast, wending its devious way through the rank weeds. So bloody was this battle, that the victor himself might well have mourned.

It was natural for me here to reflect upon our naval history. During the Revolution our prowess upon the ocean promised every thing; and in the late war even the prophecies of philosophy, and the inspirations of liberty, were distanced. But I must speak of Renown! Where 241is our Wasp?^[131] True glory was her object; and she returns not for earthly honours. Langdon and Toscin sleep in France:^[132]—they were buds of fame. Lawrence fell, like Hector, by the shaft of fate.^[133] My memory is full of valour’s sons; but they need not the eulogy of my pen.

In one of my excursions into the woods of Put-in-Bay [138] island, I was accompanied by my friend Capt. W. of the United States Army, a gentleman of a scientific and polished mind. Having provided ourselves with some old clothes, we visited a cave situated about a mile from the bay. This cave is smaller than some others in the west; but is, nevertheless, worth a description.

After exploring the woods for some time, we found what we supposed might be, and what actually was the cave. Its front is situated at the end of a considerable rise of land of an oval form. The mouth of the cave was very small; and being covered with sticks and leaves, presented a very uninviting aspect. After removing the obstructions, we took lights, and descending about ten feet perpendicularly, came to a rock, the position of which was that of an inclined 242plane. This rock is, in its descent, met by the front of the cave, so as to leave an aperture, near the floor of it, of only about three feet in length, and eighteen inches in height. This aperture also was covered with leaves. After removing them, we lay flat, and crowded ourselves, one to time, into an unknown and dismal region. As we advanced the cave, gradually, became higher; and at length we could move in an erect posture. Here we found ourselves in a spacious apartment, constituting about an acre, and surrounded by curious petrifactions. Those on the walls were small; but on the floor of the cave they were large; some of them weighing about thirty pounds. The latter are, generally of a pyramidical form. At the distance of about two hundred feet from the mouth of the cave, we came to a precipice, at the foot of which was a body of deep water. Whilst my companion sat upon the brink of the precipice, I descended it, and holding a light in one hand, swam with the other for the purpose of ascertaining the course and boundaries of this subterranean lake.

[139] In this gloomy, yet interesting cavern, we saw no living thing, excepting two bats, which were in a torpid state. Whilst exploring the most distant recesses of the cave, one of our candles was accidentally extinguished. The extinguishment of our other light would, perhaps, have been fatal to us. The darkness of this dreary region is palpable. No ray of nature’s light ever visited it. Its silence too is full of thought. The slippery step of the traveller, and the stilly drippings of the slimy concave, yielded a contrast which made silence speak. Our own appearance interested us. We forgot ourselves, and unconsciously dwelt upon two ragged Fiends, prying, with taper dim, along the confines of this doleful place. We saw these beings under the low sides of the cave knocking 243off some large petrifactions. We said, who are they?—and almost shuddered to find they were ourselves.

As soon as the storm ceased we set sail from the Bay, and the next evening arrived at Erie. In this harbour were several United States’ vessels of considerable magnitude. The banks of the harbour, on the town side, are high, steep, and romantic; and from them there is an extensive view of the Lake. The harbour itself is spacious, and the water deep.

At this place the celebrated General Wayne died,^[134] upon his return from his campaign against the Indians. Such was the success of this great soldier, and such the terror which he inspired among the savages against whom he fought, that to this day they call him the “sinews.” His mode of proceeding into the country of the enemy ought ever to be imitated. Indians may always be defeated by good troops, unless when the latter are ambushed, and surprised. General Wayne proceeded with the greatest caution during the forepart of the day, and [140] in the afternoon employed his men in fortifying for the night; the consequence was, that he avoided every ambuscade, ultimately met the enemy, and gave them a chastising which made a lasting impression upon their minds.

After reaping many laurels in this campaign, General Wayne was returning home to enjoy the grateful salutations of his fellow-citizens; but death arrested him at Erie.—

“The path of glory leads but to the grave.”

After leaving Detroit, I received a letter from the Secretary of the Lyceum there, informing me of my having, on the evening of my departure, been admitted an honourary member of that institution. I mention this fact for the 244purpose of introducing an anecdote respecting it, which was communicated to me after my return home, and which afforded me much amusement.

In passing through the country, in the early stages of my tour, some weak minded persons, who thought that my excursion was so frought with danger as to render it presumptuous, were offended by the undertaking; and adding a little ill-nature to this idea, their invectives were even more keen than the wintry winds. One of these persons, whose common sense is like Shakspeare’s grain of wheat in a bushel of chaff; and whose learning is equalled only by that of the good Mrs. Maleprop, exclaimed one day, upon seeing some newspaper, which contained an account of the Pedestrian having been admitted into the Lyceum at Detroit, “well, they have got him into the mad-house at last!” Mad-house? said a friend. “Yes”, replied this Xenophen of the age,—“the mad-house!—the Lyceum!—all the same thing!”

[141] From Erie I proceeded to Waterford, a distance of fourteen miles. At this place the snow upon the ground was eighteen inches deep. The spring in the west was very backward. I shall speak upon this topic in another place.

Waterford is a small village, and is situated on the Creek Le Beuf. At this place is a block house, which was erected during the old French war.^[135] The Creek Le Beuf is about five miles in length, and about six rods wide. Between this creek and French Creek, there is a little lake, covering about ten acres. French Creek is eighty miles long, and about twenty rods in width. This creek is one of the sources of the Alleghany river, and enters it near Fort Franklin. The Alleghany river rises on the west of the 245mountains of this name; and after running about two hundred miles meets the Monongahela.

The Creek Le Beuf is very crooked, and French Creek considerably so. The principal boats upon these and upon the Alleghany river are called keels. They are constructed like a whale boat, sharp at both ends; their length is about seventy feet, breadth ten feet, and they are rowed by two oars at each end. These boats will carry about twenty tons, and are worth two hundred dollars. At the stern of the boat is a stearing oar, which moves on a pivot, and extends about twelve feet from the stern. These boats move down the river with great velocity. Through the sinuosities of the narrow creek Le Beuf, the oar in the stern, by being pressed against the banks, gives to the boat a great impetus.

In going up the rivers these boats are poled. The poles are about eight feet in length, and the bottom of them enters a socket of iron, which causes the point of the pole to sink immediately. This [142] business is very laborious, and the progress of the boats slow.

The land near the creek Le Beuf and French Creek, particularly the former, is low and cold. Wild fowl are here very numerous. The lands on each side of the Alleghany river, for one hundred and fifty miles above Pittsburgh, are generally mountainous. The growth of timber here is principally white oak and chesnut, and in some places pitch pine. There are on this river some good lands, and some of a very inferior quality. But some of the best of the Pennsylvania tracts lie in the north-west of the state.

The banks of the Alleghany river are, in many places, exceedingly high, steep, and rocky. Whilst moving along the current they appear stupendous. The bed of this river and of French Creek is stony, and the water of them very 246clear. On these rivers are many rapids, over some of which boats move at the rate of twelve miles an hour. In passing down the Alleghany the scenery is delightful. The boats move with much velocity; the country scarcely seems inhabited; the mountains, almost lost to vision, rise in rude majesty on both sides of the river; the pellucid aspect of the water; the darting fish; the anxious loon; the profound solitude, rendered more impressive by the regular dash of the oar: all these, and many other circumstances, carry the mind back to the days, when the original occupants of the neighbouring wilds lived under the simple government of nature, and did not dream of the storm, which civilization was preparing for them.

On French Creek are situated Meadville, Franklin, and several other inconsiderable places. Here too are the remains of several old forts. At Fort Franklin the French formerly kept a garrison.^[136] As [143] far down this river as Meadville the water is still. The principal falls on this creek and Alleghany river, are Montgomery, Patterson, Amberson, Nichalson, and Catfish. The creeks and rivers, which enter these waters, are numerous; but it is not deemed worth while to name them: the principal, however, of those which enters the Alleghany are Toby’s, Sandy, Lick, Pine, and Buffalo creeks; and Crooked and Kiskernanetas rivers.^[137] In some places on the Alleghany hills, there are fine farms. On the river is situated the little village of Armstrong; and behind the hills stands Lawrencetown.^[138] I found marching over these mountains 247very laborious; but the prospects from them richly repaid me for my pains. Here I dwelt upon the situation of this vicinity about the middle of the seventeenth century; of the wars between our ancestors and the French and Indians; and of the youthful patriotism and prowess of our inimitable Washington. At the age of twenty-one, he was employed by his native State in an enterprise, which required great courage, prudence, and physical vigour. Whilst this part of the country was occupied by the French, and inhabited by many hostile tribes of Indians, he travelled from Will’s Creek, in Virginia, to Fort Du Quesne, situated at the forks of the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers; and from thence up the former to the French Fort on the Le Beuf.^[139] During a part of this journey he proceeded on foot, with a gun in his hand and a pack on his back. This enterprise developed faculties which afterwards saved his country.

To eulogize this great and good man is in vain. He is so far above our praise, that we can honour him only in serving that country which he so much loved. His wisdom and virtue constitute the greatest of human examples. Our children should early [144] be taught to know, to love, and to imitate him.

The Alleghany river, near Pittsburgh, presents an expansive aspect. At this place it meets the Monongahela from the south, and both pour their waters into the Ohio. In this union there is a silent grandeur.

About two miles above this junction, on the Alleghany, is a small Fort; and here some troops are stationed. The situation of the Fort is very retired and interesting.

Pittsburgh lies in the state of Pennsylvania, and is situated 248on the point of land formed by the Alleghany and Monongahela. Fort Pitt occupies the scite of the old Fort Du Quesne; but even the former is now in ruins.^[140] Opposite to Pittsburgh, on the Alleghany, is a considerable village, and preparation is making for building a bridge across this part of the river. There are also a considerable number of buildings on the opposite side of the Monongahela. Immediately back of these buildings there is a ridge of very high and steep hills, which contain inexhaustible coal mines. Some coal mines exist also in the Alleghany hills, and in the banks of the Ohio. Those on the west of the Monongahela, constitute a horizontal strata six inches thick and apparently unlimited in its direction through the mountain. This coal is superior to that of England: it is heavier, and contains a greater quantity of the bituminous quality. The general price of this article at Pittsburgh is about six cents a bushel.

The town of Pittsburgh, viewed from the confluence of the two rivers, presents a contracted and an unfavourable aspect; but from other situations it appears much better. Its scite is level and rather low; and the rivers, during their rise, flow for a considerable distance into the streets. The town [145] is very large. Many of its buildings are of brick, and are generally of a large size. The streets cross each other at right angles, but are quite narrow. Owing to the exclusive use of coal here, both by the manufacturer, and by private families, the whole town presents a smoky appearance. Even the complexion of the people is affected by this cause. The business of Pittsburgh is great; but is generally believed to be declining. This place is engaged in trade, more or less, with the whole western world; and may be considered the metropolis of this vast 249tract of country. It procures its foreign goods, principally, from Philadelphia and Baltimore; which goods are brought in waggons across the Alleghany mountains. The distance from these places to Pittsburgh is about three hundred miles; and the price of conveying the goods thither by the usual route, is from five to six dollars per one hundred weight. This place also transacts some little business with the City of New-York, by the way of the Hudson and Mohawk, Lakes Ontario and Erie, and the river Alleghany. Provisions in Pittsburgh are, generally, cheap. Foreign goods, however, are necessarily high.

This place is celebrated for its manufactories, and will become the Birmingham of America. Here, one may see the surprising progress, which the people of this country are making in mechanics of almost every kind, both as it respects invention and workmanship. Indeed it is evident, that in the United States the elements of the body politic are all in the most healthful action, and that we are rapidly approaching to a glorious manhood. We have only, in our progress, to guard against two evils:—an undue attachment to money, and too little regard for sound morals and solid learning. The extraordinary attention, which has of late been paid to the [146] moral and religious education of children, promises to furnish for the future service of our country, men of true wisdom;—“men who will fear God and hate covetousness.”

Speaking merely as a politician, I may say, that a due regard to this part of education is the great desideratum in civil government. But in relation to a future state the subject is of infinitely greater consequence. Our sabbath schools, in which children are taught to commit to memory the Sacred Oracles, have been attended with such wonderful success, that they appear to be forming a new epoch in the progress of the Christian Religion. This is a field 250in which thousands can do much good. Heaven has thus opened a new vineyard, in which almost any one may remove the noxious weed, and nourish the tender plant.

Ship and boat building is actively carried on at Pittsburgh; but of late no vessels of a large tonnage have been made, on account of the dangers incident to getting them down the Ohio. Very few of the vessels and boats built here ever return up the river so far as this place; and of course there is here a constant demand for new vessels. Strangers from every part of the sea board, generally take this place in their way to the West. Emigrants from every quarter are continually arriving here, and stand in need of boats of various kinds to transport their goods and their families. A great many foreign emigrants, particularly those of them who are mechanics, are often arriving from New-York, Philadelphia, and Baltimore, to Pittsburgh; and from the latter place some of them pass on to the manufacturing establishments further west.

The sects of christians in Pittsburgh are very numerous. The Christian Religion is so momentous, and, in some respects, so mysterious a subject, that it [147] is perfectly natural for people, in looking beyond those of its principles, which are easily understood, and which are sufficient to make plain before us the path of duty, to be divided in opinion respecting it. This would be the effect, in a greater or less degree, upon all abstract questions, or upon questions involving principles beyond the reach of our intellectual vision. The human mind too, is prone to dispute upon unessential points; and here, principally, arises pride of opinion, and the spirit of persecution.—There is nothing in the questions themselves to ennoble the mind, or to give force and dignity to its investigations. It is upon trifles, that even great minds become passionate.

Nearly all the sects of christians subscribe to the doctrines 251of faith, repentance, holiness, and charity; of course the great variety of sects do not call in question the consistency of God’s holy word.

Trifles give rise to sects; pride supports, and novelty obtains proselytes for them. Upon these trifles are, from time to time, engrafted views and objects of more weight, and hence the sect becomes respectable.—A congregational society becomes divided on account of some petty dispute upon a minor question involved in church discipline, or in relation to taxation for the support of the ministry. The consequence is, that in a few weeks an episcopalian, and a baptist, and perhaps other societies become established in the same town. Where the oppositionists will not resort to a new form, some variations will be suggested, and texts of scripture will be found to sanction them.—The protestants gave rise to the sect of puritans; and the presbyterians have created the sect of seceders.

No man who is acquainted with the human mind and heart, and who is well versed in ecclesiastical history, will ever suffer himself to be partial to one [148] sect above another of sincere and pious Christians. A man cannot say, that, under certain circumstances, he might not himself become a bitter sectary. What has been may be again; and what may be may be now.—Our righteous ancestors fled from the persecuting hand of christianized Europe; and, in America, they, in their turn, persecuted unto death the sect of Quakers. Where was their humility!—where was their charity! I would sooner trust a mad man than a religious zealot; and I should think that man weak minded, who would not be perfectly and equally willing to engage in public worship with any sect of pious and sincere Christians on earth.

Many people pretend to know too much respecting the 252mysterious parts of religion. The great apostle of the Gentiles, who, as a man, possessed a powerful and highly improved mind, and, as a christian, abounded in grace said, that “here we see through a glass darkly;” yet mere babes in the knowledge of the christian system, pretend even to demonstrate concerning it, what, in the nature of things, is not demonstrable. In young ministers this is the foppery of learning; and in old ones clerical pride.

Many persons too, are dissatisfied with the light which exists upon this subject; and hence arise fruitless speculations, and ultimate unbelief. God has sufficiently enlightened our path to futurity; and he has condescendingly done it, to quicken us in the christian course, and to cheer us in the hour of death. Instead, however, of gratefully considering this expression of kindness as a gift, we look, with discontent, for the development of the whole counsel of Heaven concerning us:—this is pride!—this is presumption!

But I may add, that if this light affects only the reasoning powers of man, it will never, in my humble [149] opinion, eventuate in that faith which is necessary to the production of a pure heart and holy life. The moral as well as the intellectual man must be enlightened. True faith resides altogether in the heart.—This is the theatre of hope and fear, joy and sorrow, love and hatred;—the theatre of guilt, and of repentance; the theatre of rebellion, of obedience, and of prayer.

As I dislike to see a layman in theology, or a theologian in politics, I shall say no more upon this subject.

The people of Pittsburgh are not, generally speaking, remarkable for their sociability. They are very attentive to their business, and seem to care but little about those around them. A next-door neighbour is, with them, frequently unknown; and months and years pass, without 253their exchanging with each other the ordinary compliments of friendship and good will. As is the case with many of the cities of Europe, a simple partition renders unknown, for a great length of time, those who live under the same roof.

The inhabitants of Pittsburgh are very suspicious of the Yankees; and judging from the character of a few, uncharitably condemn the whole. This is more or less the case throughout the west. The Yankees are every where considered, an intelligent, hardy, bold, active, and enterprising people; but they are supposed to be excessively fond of money, and frequently to obtain it by fraudulent means.

As to the love of money it is, throughout the whole country, poisoning the fountain of individual and national respectability; but as to the means of obtaining it, the Yankees are, probably, as honest as other people.

The characteristics of the people of any particular town, generally depend upon the disposition and [150] habits of its first settlers. Sometimes these first settlers are hospitable and fond of society; and sometimes they are exclusively devoted to business, and consider every stranger, who makes his appearance among them, as actuated by the same views.

With respect to the characteristics of the people of Pittsburgh, I judge only from information which I obtained there, and which appeared to be sanctioned by the general aspect of things in relation to them.

During my short visit at this place, I became particularly acquainted with the family of E. B. Esq.; and mention this circumstance for the purpose of affording myself the satisfaction of expressing some sentiments respecting them. So interesting were they, that I have, ever since I left them, regretted the loss of their society. Mr. 254B. is a German; has travelled a great deal, both in Europe and America; is acquainted with many languages; possesses very extensive information; and is a man of a sound and discriminating mind. Possessing too, much sensibility, and much delicacy of taste, his ideas are polished, and interestingly expressed. In Mrs. B. are combined good sense, simplicity, and benevolence. E**** is sensible, and innocently romantic; and in the little daughters are blended much vivacity and loveliness.

On the back part of Pittsburgh there is a rise of ground, called Grant’s Hill. Here one may have a perfect view of the town; and its appearance from this position is very much in its favour. This hill was occupied by the English General Grant during the old French war; and here he surrendered to the enemy.^[141] About nine miles up the Monongahela is the place called Braddock’s Fields.^[142] It is celebrated by the defeat there of the general of this name. These fields are also noted by their [151] being the rendezvous of the Whiskey Boys during the western insurrection in 1794. The defeat of Braddock took place in 1755. Many vestiges of this bloody engagement are still visible. It is well known that here our Washington acted as a volunteer aid to General Braddock; and by his intrepidity, and military skill, saved the English troops from total destruction. In the engagement Washington had two horses shot under him, and received four balls through his clothes.

The Monongahela river is a noble stream. It rises at the foot of the Laurel mountains, is about four hundred yards wide at its mouth, is navigable at a great distance, 255and its current is deep and gentle. Across this river, at Pittsburgh, an elegant bridge has recently been erected.

After remaining at Pittsburgh two days, I descended the Ohio for a few miles, and then landed on its western bank. The state of Ohio is situated altogether on the west of the river, and is bounded east by Pennsylvania, north by Lake Erie and Michigan Territory, and west by Indiana. The length of the river is about eleven hundred miles, and its average breadth about one half of a mile; in some places, however, its width is about twice this distance. The river is, generally, very deep, sufficiently so for the navigation of large ships. Its aspect is placid and clear; and when the water is high, is expansive and beautiful. It contains a great many islands, and is stored with a variety of fish and fowl. The river sometimes rises forty or fifty feet, and greatly endangers the settlements upon its banks. Sometimes too, the river is low and appears inconsiderable. Its sinuosities are numerous, and in the spring of the year, the abrasive effect of the floating ice and trees upon its banks is very great.

[152] The general aspect of the state of Ohio is rather level than otherwise. There are here no elevations which can be called mountains; but the country is gently diversified. The upper part of it is most hilly. West of Chilicothe it is nearly level. In various parts of the state, there are extensive prairies covered with high grass. Those near the river are small; but those in the interior are from thirty to fifty miles in extent. The soil of the state is, generally, very fertile; but as is the case every where else, some of its lands are sterile, and some unfit for cultivation. Its forests are spacious and elegant. The sycamore trees here are numerous, and some of them surprisingly large. In this and the other western states there is still considerable game; but the hand of civilization having 256here wantonly destroyed much, a scarcity has, for some time, been experienced.

Most of the western states in a great measure resemble, as to their aspect, the state of Ohio. This whole range of country is better calculated for the production of grain than for the growth of cattle. The pastures here, however, are rich; and the woods so abound with nuts, that immense herds of swine are raised in them without the least expence. The climate, judging from the general appearance of the inhabitants, I should suppose much less healthy than that of New-England; and in particular situations the fever and ague, and bilious fevers are very prevalent.

In travelling from Pittsburgh to New-Orleans, I sometimes moved upon the rivers, and sometimes marched in the woods. In the latter the traveller is, during the summer season, greatly annoyed by musquetoes. Having no covering, I was often employed during the whole night in defending myself against them. Here I may observe, that from the [153] time of my leaving Pittsburgh to my arrival at New-Orleans, I slept in the open air about thirty nights. The night dews did not affect my health.

The boats which float upon the river Ohio are various:—from the ship of several hundred tons burthen, to the mere skiff. Very few if any very large vessels, however, are now built at Pittsburgh, or indeed at any other place on the Ohio. They were formerly built on this river, particularly at Pittsburgh and Marietta; but the difficulties incident to getting them to the ocean, have rendered such undertakings unfrequent.

An almost innumerable number of steam boats, barks, keels, and arks, are yearly set afloat upon this river, and upon its tributary streams. The barks are generally about one hundred tons burthen, have two masts, and are rigged as schooners, and hermaphrodite brigs. The 257keels have, frequently, covered decks, and sometimes carry one mast. These and also the barks are sometimes rowed and sometimes moved up the river by poling, and by drawing them along shore with ropes. The flat boat or ark is of a clumsy construction; but very burthensome. Its foundation consists of sills like those of a house, and to these is trunneled a floor of plank. The sides are of boards loosely put together, and the top is covered in the same way. The bottom of the boat, and so much of the sides as come in contact with the water, are caulked. Some of this kind of boat will carry four or five hundred barrels of flour, besides considerable quantities of bacon, cheese, and other produce. On the deck of the ark are two large oars, moving on pivots, and at the stern there is a large stearing oar. The progress of the ark is principally in floating with the current; and the oars are seldom used excepting for the purpose of rowing ashore.

[154] The business carried on by boats, on the Ohio and Mississippi, is immense. The freight of goods up and down these rivers is high; and the freighting business here is exceedingly profitable. No property pays so great an interest as that of steam boats on these rivers. A trip of a few weeks yields one hundred per cent upon the capital employed.

The arks, and, generally speaking, the keels, when they reach New-Orleans, seldom return up the river again. The former are sold for lumber.

The current of the Ohio is about four miles an hour. That of the Mississippi is rather quicker.

On the river Ohio, nearly opposite to Louisville, there are rapids, the descent of which is about twenty-three feet in the distance of two miles. Owing to this circumstance many boats do not return from below this place. This difficulty, however, is about to be removed by a canal, 258which will give to the river, at this place, another direction.^[143] This is the only considerable obstruction in the whole course of the Ohio.

In the rapids there are three passages, and they are all taken at different times, according to the state of the river. Pilots are, by law, appointed to navigate boats down the rapids. The quantity of water in the river often varies: it sometimes both rises and falls in the course of a few hours.

Before I proceed further down this river, I must notice those parts of Pennsylvania and Virginia, which lie on the Ohio. The western boundary of Pennsylvania lies about forty miles west of French Creek and Alleghany river; and west of Pittsburgh, on both sides of the Ohio, about the same distance. North-west, it is bounded by a part of Lake Erie, and south by a part of Virginia.

A part of the state of Virginia lies on the Ohio, [155] having a part of Pennsylvania on the east,^[144] and Kentucky on the west. The principal waters, which enter the Ohio from Pennsylvania, are the Big Beaver on the north, and Racoon Creek on the south.

In travelling in the vicinity of the western rivers, I could not always obtain good accommodations upon them. As such accommodations, however, were of but little consequence to me, I always, when I wished to descend the rivers, jumped into the first boat I could find.—Sometimes I moved along in a keel, sometimes in an ark, and sometimes rowed myself in a little skiff. By taking this course, I not only could land when I pleased, but became particularly acquainted with the navigation of the rivers, and with the various means of transportation upon them. 259My society, it is true, was not always the best; but, perhaps, not the less instructive for this circumstance. To become practically acquainted with the world, one must see human nature in all its aspects. Sometimes I met real gentlemen, and sometimes fell in with the perfect boor. I was not known to any one; but the boatmen, frequently becoming sick, applied to me for medical aid; and hence I acquired the title of Doctor.

My prescriptions were always simple; and, strange to tell, I did not lose a single patient. My knowledge of the Materia Medica was, no doubt, limited. Without, however, consulting Celsus or Boerhave, I always told the sick, that in a few days, they would be perfectly well. I really suppose that men often die, because they think they shall. Much depends, in sickness, upon the state of the mind. Our intellectual and physical nature always sympathise with each other. Resistance lessens the force of an attack; and there is something [156] in the declaration, I will not be conquered! which fortifies both the mind and the body.

My next learned theory was, that nature loves herself; and, in sickness, requires, in many cases, only a little aid to enable her so to exert her powers as to produce the desired effect. The most simple prescriptions, if efficient, are always the best. Powerful remedies tend to disorganize the most subtle functions of the animal economy; and by curing one disease to produce a complication of many others.

But I would not call in question the importance of the profession of medicine. As to its station in the catalogue of sciences, it ranks among the very first. This profession presents to the human mind the most extensive field for investigation. The great science of physiology is its basis; and chymistry, the wonderful magician, by whom 260the constituent parts of matter are ascertained, the effects of their various combinations discovered, and the production of new qualities realized. The physician should be, emphatically, a child of nature, and well acquainted with the principles of her government, both with respect to mind and matter.

Upon the western rivers a great many boatmen die, and their graves upon the banks are numerous; hence those who are taken sick are, generally, much alarmed.

The boatmen of the west are conspicuous for their habits of intemperance, and swearing. Whilst on the western rivers my ears were shocked by their oaths and curses. I endeavoured to lessen this practice. To effect my object I, occasionally, associated with them; and by a kind, free, and yet grave manner, prepared the way for some friendly counsel upon the subject. They saw that I did not feel above their labours, or their modes of living.—I fully participated in their hard fare; slept across flour [157] barrels, without bed or covering, drank water from the river, and sometimes laboured at their oars. Thus I gained their confidence and their good will.

At one time, during the silence of evening, I addressed about twenty boatmen upon the subject of swearing. I represented the practice as not only wicked, but idle, low, and unmanly. They heard me with attention, some of them made many acknowledgments, and whilst I continued with them, they swore little or none. Upon many other occasions I spake to boatmen upon the subject; and from their manner, I have no doubt that the practice of swearing among them might be rendered less common. But, perhaps, there is no habit, the controul of which depends less upon the will than that of swearing. The tongue is a little member, and often moves ere the judgment can controul the impulses of the heart. A pretty lad, 261in one of the western boats, attracted my attention, both by his beauty and his profaneness. After speaking to him upon the subject, I offered him a dollar upon the condition of his not swearing for the remainder of the day. He was much pleased with the proposition; but after controuling himself with much watchfulness, for about an hour, he became discouraged, and partially returned to his long established practice. Let those, who are so happy as to be free from this vice, guard against the subtle influences of its example.

As to intemperance, I think it is by no means peculiar, even in degree, to this part of the country. But I am happy in being able to add, that during a tour which I took through the middle and southern states in 1815; and also during that, an account of which I am now writing, I witnessed much less intemperance than information previously obtained had led me to anticipate. Still, there is, in the [158] United States, much inebriation, and a great want of economy in the use of spirituous liquors. By the distillery of grain among us, the community are, sometimes, deprived of the necessary quantity of bread; and a substitute is furnished which tends, at once, to beggar, and to depopulate the country.

Before I dismiss these topics, I may add, that I have often heard of the low conversation, which is said to prevail among the boatmen of the west; and also of their quarrelsome and fighting habits. All these practices are much less than they are represented to be.

Here I may be permitted to observe, that with respect to low conversation, many who call themselves gentlemen, and pass for such in the world, are highly culpable. Indecency is a vice committed without temptation. It corrupts the moral sense, and deprives the human heart of all those etherial visitations, which remind man of his 262original innocence, and eloquently persuade him that there are pleasures far above those of sense. Indeed, how evident is it, that when we cultivate pure and upright affections, the blessed spirits of truth and peace visit our hearts, enlarge our views of moral nature, and tell us of nameless hopes. The infirmities of man would add an interest to human nature, if they were not voluntarily displayed. When covered with the mantle of an amiable and sensible delicacy, they blend the ideas of weakness and suffering here, with perfection and immortality hereafter.

That part of the state of Virginia which lies on the Ohio, extends from about forty miles below Pittsburg to Great Sandy River, the line between this state and Kentucky. The western parts of Virginia are mountainous, and a good grazing country. The soil below the mountains, though not [159] rich, is well calculated for the growth of tobacco and Indian corn. Many of the ridges of land in this state are very fertile; particularly the Blue Ridge.

The town of Wheeling, in Virginia, is situated on the Ohio, twelve miles above Grave Creek; and on this creek is a celebrated Indian grave.^[145]

The principal rivers and creeks, which enter the Ohio from this state, are Charteer’s, Big Grave, Baker’s, Fish, and Fishing creek; and Little Kenhawa, Great Kenhawa, and the Great Sandy River.^[146]

The Great Kenhawa is nearly three hundred yards wide at its junction with the Ohio; but its rapids are numerous, and its navigation very difficult. It derives its sources, through a vast tract of country, from the Laurel and Alleghany mountains on the north-east, from the Cumberland 263mountains on the west, and from the mountains in North Carolina near the sources of the Roanoke. On the Great Kenhawa are inexhaustible lead mines.

The principal source of the Great Sandy River is in the Cumberland mountains. Its length is not great; and it is navigable for loaded batteaux only about fifty miles. At its mouth it is about sixty yards wide, and it enters the Ohio opposite to Galliopolis. This place was settled by a company of French emigrants; but in 1796 disease and other misfortunes caused them to abandon the establishment.^[147]

The town of Steubenville, in the state of Ohio, extends for a considerable distance along the bank of the river.^[148] There are here some manufactories, and several handsome dwelling houses. Its situation is considerably elevated, and here and there are some large trees which were spared from the forest.

The first principal river which enters the Ohio, and which finds its source in that state is the Muskingum. This river is situated about one hundred [160] and seventy miles below Pittsburg, and is, at its confluence with the Ohio, nearly one hundred and fifty yards wide. It is navigable for large batteaux to a place called the Three Legs,^[149] one hundred miles from its mouth, and for small 264ones to its source, which is within seven miles of the Cayahoga. The Muskingum presents a gentle appearance, and near its banks there are valuable salt springs, and considerable quantities of coal and free stone.