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A Cruising Voyage Around the World

A Cruising VOYAGE Round the WORLD, Begun August 1. 1708. and Finished October 14. 1711. (continued 8)

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He adds, that in the Valley of Lampa, near St. Jago, there’s an Herb, about a Foot high, resembling Sweet Basil. In Summer it is cover’d with Grains of Salt, like Pearl, which is more savoury, and has a finer Flavour than any other Salt. Our Author comes next to treat of the Fertility of the Coast, which, he says, among other Fish produces Shell-Fish in greater Quantities, larger than any where else, and 1. Oisters, valuable both for their Meat and Pearls. 2. Choros, a fine Sort of Shell-fish, which also breed Pearl. 3. Manegues, which have 2 round Shells, the inside of which resembles Mother of Pearl. In short, he says, the Sea throws up Shell-fish, in such Quantities, upon some Parts of the Coast, that Ships may be loaded with them, and their Shells are of such Variety of Colours and Shapes, that our European Virtusos might from hence have a curious Collection, whereas the Indians only burn them for Chalk. There are other Sorts of Fish on these Coasts, some of which they call Sea-Stars, others Suns and Moons, because they resemble those Planets, as they are usually painted, which are common elsewhere, but not so large as here. These Fish reduc’d into Powder, and drank in Wine, are an infallible Remedy against Drunkenness, and frequently us’d for that end, because it creates an Abhorrence of Wine in those who drink it, says our Author. He adds, that great Quantities of Amber are found on this Coast, particularly, the grey sort, which is the best. They have all other sorts of Fish, common to us in Europe, besides others, peculiar to themselves.

He comes next to their Birds, and besides those which are common in Europe, there are 1. Flamencos, bigger than Turkeys, their Feathers of a white and scarlet Colour, of which the Natives make Ornaments, and their Legs are so long that they walk thro’ Lakes and Ponds. 2. The Child Bird, so call’d, because they look like a swadled Child, with its Arms at Liberty: They are very good Meat. 3. Airones, so much valued for the Feathers, to make Tufts, that formerly, they say, every Feather upon their Heads cost 2 Reals. These Birds are rare. There are others call’d Garcolos, whose Feathers are generally us’d by Soldiers. 4. Voycas, from whose Notes the Indians pretend to foretel Death, Sickness, or other Misfortunes; the Feathers on their Breasts are of a deep scarlet Colour, and the rest brown. 5. Pinguedas, their Body is of the size of an Almond; they feed upon Flowers, and shine like polish’d Gold, mix’d with green; the Males have a lively Orange Colour, like Fire on their Heads, and the Tails of those Birds are a Foot long, and 2 Inches broad. 6. Condores, which are white as Ermin; their Skins are extreme soft and warm, and therefore us’d as Gloves. They have abundance of Ostriches, and Variety of Hawks in this Country.

Ovalle comes next to treat of their Beasts. He says, they had no Cows, Horses, Sheep, Hogs, House-Cats, nor common Dogs of any sort, Goats, Asses, or Rabbits, till they were brought hither by the Spaniards, but now all these are increas’d to a wonderful Degree by the Richness of their Country and Pasture, so that one Cow frequently yields 150 lb Weight of Tallow. Herrera says, that when the Spaniards came first hither, a Horse was commonly sold for 1000 Crowns, but now they are so plenty that they send them yearly to Peru. The most remarkable Animals, which are not common with us, are, 1. Their Sheep, mention’d before, shap’d like Camels, tho’ not so large: The Natives us’d them for Ploughing and Carriage, before they had European Cattle: Their upper Lips are slit, with which they spit at those who vex them, and wherever their Spittle falls, it causes a Scab. They govern’d them by a kind of Bridle put thro’ their Ears, and they would kneel like Camels, to take on their Burden. 2. Wild Goats, which very much resemble those Sheep, but are all of a red clear Colour, so very swift that they out-run Horses, and are never to be tamed. They feed in great Herds, and are hunted by Dogs, which easily catch the young ones, that are excellent Meat. The Flesh of the old ones, dried and smoaked, is reckon’d the best of its kind. These Creatures, especially the oldest, have Bezoar Stones, in a Bag under their Belly. Our Author says, he brought one of those Stones to Italy, which weigh’d 32 Ounces, and was as perfect an Oval as if it had been form’d by a Turner; he gave the Indian who found it 70 Pieces of 8 for it.

Chili Described.

Their most remarkable Trees, besides what are common to Europe, are 1. The Cinnamon Tree, so call’d, because the Bark resembles Cinnamon, in such Plenty, that they cover their Houses with them: They keep their Leaves all the Year, and resemble the Italian Lawrel Royal. 2. The Guyac Tree grows in the Cordillera, is as hard and heavy as Iron: The Decoction is good against many Diseases. 3. The Sandal Tree, that is very odoriferous, a Preservative against infectious Distempers, and therefore us’d by the Priests when they visit the Sick. 4. The Maguey, whose Leaves are admirable against Burnings; the Fruit is like Myrtle-Berries, and of an excellent Relish. 5. The Quelu, of whose Fruit they make a very sweet Drink. 7. Iluigan, the Spaniards call it Molde, ’tis of the Shape and Colour of Pepper: It grows on a small Tree, and makes an agreeable Liquor, coveted by those of Quality. 8. The Myrtilla which grows on the Mountains, from Lat. 37. and upwards: Herrera says, its Fruit is a common Good to the Natives, not unlike a Grape, and of this they make a Wine that exceeds all other Liquors. ’Tis of a bright gold Colour, will bear more Water than any other Wine, chears the Heart, and never offends the Stomach, but increases Appetite. The Vinegar made of it exceeds all other sorts. Our Author adds, that their Cypress, Cedar and Oak Trees are extraordinary good.

He comes next to the Islands of Chili. The first are those of Juan Fernandez, already describ’d. The second are the Islands of Chiloe, which lie about Lat. 43, and form an Archipelago of 40 Islands. He says the Nature of the Climate is such, that it rains almost all the Year, so that only Maiz or such other Grain can ripen here, as need little Sun. The chief Diet of the Inhabitants is the Root Papas, which is larger here than any where else. They have excellent Shell-fish, very good Poultry and Hogs, some Beeves and Sheep. The Capital of this Country is the City of Castra, which lies in the chief Island, and is garrison’d by the Spaniards. Here they have great Store of Honey and Wax, and some Gold Mines on the Coast. Their chief Manufacture is Clothing for the Indians, and they have vast Woods of Cedar Trees of a prodigious size, with the Planks of which they drive a great Trade to Chili and Peru. 3. The Islands of Chonos, in Lat. 45. but of little Use, because of the excessive Rains which drown the Soil. 4. The Fine Island, which lies almost in the same Latitude with Val Paraiso and St. Jugo: It has a safe Harbour for Ships, where they may ride in 20 or 30 Fathom Water. The Spaniards say ’tis a very beautiful Island, abounds with Trees, wild Boars, and other Game, and excellent Water; and there’s Plenty of Fish on the Coast. 5. The Island of Mocha, where the Dutch, under Spilberg, found a very generous Reception by the Natives, who furnish’d them with Plenty of Sheep, and other Provisions, in exchange for Clothes, Axes, &c. The North side of it is plain and low, but the South side rocky. 6. The Island of St. Maria, 13 Leagues S.W. from the City of Conception, and 3 from Arauco: It is very fruitful and temperate, lies about Lat. 37, and is well inhabited. 7. The Islands of Pedro de Sarmiento, so call’d, because he discover’d them, when in Pursuit of Sir Francis Drake. They are about 80 in Number, and lie about Lat. 50. so that we suppose them to be those now call’d The Duke of York’s Islands, which lie a little to the Northward of the Straits of Magillan.

Sailing towards the Island of Guam.

Our Author comes next to Guio, the third Quarter of Chili, which lies on the other side of the Cordillera, towards the East. ’Tis divided into several Provinces, and quite differs in Temperature from Chili. The Summer is excessive hot, and the Inhabitants so annoy’d with Bugs and Muskettos, that they lie abroad in their Gardens and Yards. They have almost perpetual Thunders and Lightnings, and are mightily infested with poisonous Insects: These are the bad Qualities of the Country, to compensate which, the Soil, in many places, if possible, exceeds that of Chili in Fruitfulness; the Crops are richer, the Fruits larger, and of a better Taste, because of the greater Heats. They have Store of Corn, Wine, Flesh, and all the Fruits, Roots, and Herbs of Europe, with large Plantations of Olives and Almonds. The Cold is not so sharp in Winter as that of Chili, and the Air much clearer, so that the Season is then very temperate: they have great Quantities of large excellent Trouts, and other River Fish. Their peculiar Fruits are, 1. Algaroba, of which they make a Bread so sweet, that Strangers can’t eat it. They supply Tucuman and Paraguay with Figs, Pomgranates, Apples, dry’d Peaches and Grapes, and excellent Wine and Oil. Ovalle says, That in his time there were rich Mines of Gold and Silver discover’d here, which were reckon’d to be better than those of Potosi, and that in short it had all Necessaries for Life in as great abundance as any other Country, and in general is very healthful. The Provinces of Tucuman and Paraguay, which bound this Country we have already describ’d.

Jan. 10. I now go on with my Journal, being on our Departure from California, and returning to Great Britain. I shall not trouble the Reader with every Day’s particular Transactions in this long and tedious Passage, but only take notice of such Occurrences as are worth remark, and to satisfy the Curious, shall subjoin a particular Table of each Day’s Run, with the Latitude, Longtitude and Variation betwixt Cape St. Lucas on California, and Guam, one of the Ladrones Islands. We resolved to keep an exact Account of the Distance and Variation not being certainly known to us from any former Voyagers.

Jan. 11. We weigh’d from Port Segura last Night, but were becalm’d under the Shore till the 12th in the Afternoon, when there sprung up a Breeze, which soon run us out of sight of the Land. We took our Departure from Cape St. Lucas, which bore N. by E. at 12 a Clock, distant about 15 Leagues. We were forc’d to go away with little or no Refreshment, having but 3 or 4 Fowls, and a very slender Stock of Liquor, which we got out of the Batchelor. Several of our Men were in a weak Condition, besides my self, Mr. Vanbrugh, and the rest that were wounded. We were forc’d to allow but 1 Pound and half of Flower, and 1 small Piece of Meat to 5 in a Mess, with 3 Pints of Water a Man for 24 Hours, for Drink and Dressing their Victuals. We struck down 10 of our Guns into the Hold, to ease the Ship; for being out of the way of Enemies, they are altogether useless betwixt this and the East Indies. On the 16th the Batchelor made a Signal to give us some Bread, they having found a good Quantity of Bread and Sweet-meats aboard her, but little of Flesh-kind: We had 1000 Weight of Bread for our Share, the Dutchess as much, and the Marquiss 500 Weight; in lieu of which we sent back to the Prize 2 Casks of Flower, one of English Beef, and one of Pork, they having but 45 Days Provision aboard in Flesh. This Morning Thomas Conner, a Boy, fell overboard, but the Launch being a-stern, we cut her Moarings, and took him up just as he was tired with Swimming, and ready to sink.

On the 26th in the Morning the Water was very much discolour’d, at which being surprized, we immediately sounded, but found no Ground. We spoke with the Dutchess, and agreed to go away W.S.W. till we got into the Lat. of 13°, because our Spanish Pilot told us it was dangerous going in 14, by reason of Islands and Shoals, where a Spanish Vessel was lost some time ago, ever since which the Manila Ship, in her Return from Acapulco, runs in Lat. 13. and keeps that Parallel till they make the Island of Guam.

On the 28th the Steward missing some Pieces of Pork, we immediately search’d, and found the Thieves, one of ’em had been guilty before, and forgiven, on promise of Amendment, but was punish’d now, lest Forbearance should encourage the rest to follow this bad Practice; Provisions being so short, and our Run so long, may prove of ill consequence. I order’d ’em to the Main Jeers, and every Man of the Watch to give ’em a Blow with a Cat of Nine-tails, and their Messmates being privy to the Theft, were put in Irons.

Feb. 1. We buried one Boyce, betwixt 40 and 50 Years of Age, whom we brought from Guiaquil, where and in other Parts of New Spain he had been a Prisoner above 7 Years, since he was taken in the Bay of Campeachy.

On the 5th a Negro we named Deptford died, who being very much addicted to stealing of Provisions, his Room was more acceptable than his Company at this time. On the 6th we spoke with the Dutchess; I was for augmenting the Mens Allowance in Meat, since we had such a favourable Gale, which was like to continue; but Capt. Courtney objected against it, alledging that if we miss’d Guam, we should all be starved; so we deferr’d it a Week longer. We have had very bad luck in fishing hitherto, having took only one Albicore since we came from Cape St. Lucas.

Arrival at the Island of Guam.

On the 11th I agreed with Capt. Courtney to continue a W. by S. Course till we get clear of the Rocks call’d the Bartholomews, which are laid down in 13° and a half; but the Distance of them being variously computed, makes us the more cautious, and keep a constant good Look-out. On the 13th the Spanish Pilot we took in the Batchelor died; we kept him, thinking he might be of use to us, if he recover’d of his Wounds; but he was shot in the Throat with a Musket-ball, which lodg’d so deep, the Doctors could not come at it. On the 14th we agreed with Capt. Courtney to give half a Pound of Flower or Bread more to a Mess. That same Day, in Commemoration of the ancient Custom in England of chusing Valentines, I drew up a List of the fair Ladies in Bristol, that were any ways related to or concern’d in the Ships, and sent for my Officers into the Cabbin, where every one drew, and drank the Lady’s Health in a Cup of Punch, and to a happy Sight of ’em all; this I did to put ’em in mind of Home. On the 17th I was troubled with a swelling in my Throat, which incommoded me very much, till this Morning I got out a Piece of my Jaw Bone that lodg’d there since I was wounded. Our Ship began to make more Water, so we clapt on a new Bonnet where we took the old one off; but after many fruitless Attempts, were forc’d to keep one Pump continually going, every two Men in the Watch taking their Posts once an Hour; which Labour, with the want of sufficient Food, make our People look miserably.

On the 18th we threw a Negro overboard, who died of a Consumption and Want together. Our Men began to be very much out of order, and what adds to their Weakness is our continual Pumping, nor can we pretend to make any further Addition to their Allowance.

On the 25th Tho. Williams, a Welch Taylor, died; he was shot in the Leg at engaging the 2d Manila Ship, and being of a weak Constitution, fell into a Dysentery, which kill’d him. On the 26th we caught a Couple of fine Dolphins, which were very acceptable to us, having had but very indifferent Luck of Fish in this long Passage.

On March the 3d we buried a Negro call’d Augustine, who died of the Scurvy and Dropsy. We agree to give 6 Negroes the same Allowance as five of our own Men, which will but just keep those that are in health alive.

On the 10th we made Land, being the Island Serpana, which bore N.W. distant about 8 Leagues. The Dutchess made another Island to the Westward, which bore W. by S. distant about 10 Leagues; the latter they took to be the Island Guam, so we clapt upon a Wind, and stood for it.

March 11. This Morning we had sight of both Islands, the Northermost bearing N.N.W. distant about 7 Leagues, and the Body of the Westermost W.S.W. 5 Leagues. The Spaniards say there is a great Shoal between these Islands, but nearest to Serpana. We ran along the Shore, being satisfied it was the Island of Guam, from whence there came several flying Prows to look at the Ships; they run by us very swift, but none would venture aboard. At Noon the Westermost part of the Island bore West, and at the same time we made a small low Island joining to Guam, with a Shoal between it and Guam; the Island appear’d green and very pleasant, off of it there runs a Spit of Sand to the Southward, but keeping it a good Birth from you as you near it, there’s no Danger, being gradual Soundings to the Shoal. After we were clear of it we sprung our Luff, and stood in for the Harbour, which lies mid-way betwixt this and the North part of the Island. There came heavy Flaws of Wind off Shore, sometimes for us, and at other times against us; but we got to an Anchor in the Afternoon in 12 Fathom Water, about half a Mile off Shore, where there was a little Village. The small Island to the Southward bore South of us, distant about 3 Leagues, and another small one to the Northward bore N. N. W. about 2 Leagues. The Necessity of our stopping at these Islands to get a Refreshment of Provisions, was very great, our Sea Store being almost exhausted, and what we had left was very ordinary, especially our Bread and Flower, which was not enough for 14 Days at the shortest Allowance. In order to recruit quietly, we endeavour’d to get some of the Natives aboard that were in the Prows, to keep ’em as Hostages in case of sending any of our Men to the Governour: One of ’em, as we were turning into the Harbour with Spanish Colours, came under our Stern. There were 2 Spaniards in the Boat, who asked what we were, and from whence we came? Being answer’d in Spanish, that we were Friends, and came from New Spain, they willingly came aboard, and ask’d if we had any Letter to the Governour? We had one ready, but before we could get it signed by all the Commanders, there came a Messenger from the Governour, who demanded the same Account of us. We immediately sent him away with 2 of our Linguists, detaining one of the Spaniards till they return’d. The Letter was thus:

S I R,

At the Island of Guam.

WE being Servants to Her Majesty of Great Britain, and stopping at these Islands in our Way to the East Indies, will not molest the Settlement, provided you deal friendly by us. We will pay for whatever Provisions and Refreshments you have to spare, in such manner as best agrees with your Conveniency, either in Money, or any Necessaries you want. But if after this civil Request you deny us, and do not act like a Man of Honour, you may immediately expect such Military Treatment, as we are with ease able to give you. This we thought fit to confirm under our Hands, recommending to you our Friendship and kind Treatment, which we hope you’ll esteem, and assure your self we then shall be with the strictest Honour,

Your Friends and humble Servants,

To the Honourable Governour of the Island of Guam, March 23. 1709 W. Rogers. S. Courtney. E. Cooke.

March 11. In the Morning we and the Dutchess mann’d our Pinnace, and sent her ashore with a Flag of Truce, where they were entertained curteously by the Natives, who promis’d to supply us with such Provisions as they could spare, provided the Governour would give ’em leave. About Noon our Linguist return’d, and brought with him 3 Spanish Gentlemen from the Governour, who in answer to our Letter sent another, expressing all Readiness imaginable to accommodate us with what the Island afforded, and that he had sent those Gentlemen to treat with us. I immediately sent for Capt. Dover, Courtney, and Cooke, &c. being not able to stir out of the Ship, and desir’d they would come and consult with me how to act.

March 13. This Morning we had 4 Bullocks, 1 for each Ship, with some Limes, Oranges, and Cocoa Nuts. Our Misunderstandings at California have been very much augmented since by our Want of Provisions, one Ship’s Company being jealous the other had most and best; but now being arriv’d at a Place of Plenty, we are all indifferently well reconciled, and an Entertainment was provided aboard the Batchelor for the Spanish Gentlemen, where most of our Officers appointed to meet. I being not able to move my self, was hoisted in a Chair out of the Ship, and also out of the Boat into the Batchelor; there we had a good Entertainment, and agreed, that on Thursday next a Representative for each Ship should wait upon the Governour, and make him a handsome Present for his Civility and Readiness to supply us.

March 15. This Morning we had another Entertainment aboard the Marquiss, where I likewise went in the same manner as before.

March 16. This Morning our Pinnace went with several of our Officers to accept of the Governour’s Invitation ashore, who received them with all imaginable Friendship and Respect, having near 200 Men drawn up in Arms at their Landing, and the Officers and Clergy of the Island to conduct them to the Governour’s House, which was a very handsome Seat, considering where we are: They entertain’d them with at least sixty Dishes of several sorts, the best could be got on the Island, and when they took their Leaves, each fired a Volley of Small Arms. They presented the Governour, according as we had agreed, with 2 Negro Boys dress’d in Liveries, 20 Yards of Scarlet Cloth-Serge, and 6 Pieces of Cambrick, which he seem’d wonderfully pleas’d with, and promis’d to assist us in whatever lay in his Power.

March 17. This Day we got our Dividend, being about 60 Hogs, 99 Fowls, 24 Baskets of Indian Corn, and 14 Bags of Rice, 44 Baskets of Yams, and 800 Cocoa Nuts.

March 18. There was an Entertainment aboard us to day, where we had most of our Officers, and 4 Spanish Gentlemen from the Governour. I made ’em as welcome as Time and Place would afford, diverting ’em with Musick, and our Sailors Dancing till Night, when we parted very friendly. We got some more Bullocks on board, being small lean Cattle, but what we gladly accepted of; each Ship had 14 in all.

March 20. This Morning each Ship had 2 Cows and Calves more, being the last we are like to get. We had a Meeting on board the Marquiss, where ’twas agreed to make a handsome Present to the Governour’s Deputy, who had the Fatigue to get our Provisions together, wherein he us’d all possible dispatch. We gave him and the rest of the Gentlemen what they esteem’d double the Value of what we received of them, which they certify’d under their Hands, and that we had been very civil to them. We also gave them the like Certificate, sign’d by all our Officers, to shew to any English that might have occasion to recruit there, and parted very friendly. Having finish’d that Affair, it was agreed, that we should steer from hence a West and by South Course to go clear of some Islands that lie in our way, and then thought it proper to steer directly for the South East part of Mindanao, and from thence the clearest Way to Ternate. It was also agreed, that our Ship being very leaky, I should deliver to Capt. Courtney one Chest of Plate and Money, to be put on board the Dutchess.

The Island of Guam Described.

March 21. At Break of Day we hoisted our Colours, and fired a Gun for our Consorts to unmoar. In the meantime, with the Consent of the other Officers I put an old Spaniard ashore, call’d Ant. Gomes Figuero, whom we took in the 1st Bark in the South Seas, and design’d to carry him to Great Britain, to condemn all our Prizes took there; but he being now in all appearance not likely to live, we agreed to dismiss him, he giving us a Certificate that he saw us attack and take several Prizes, all Subjects to Philip V. King of Spain, &c. I gave him some Clothes and other odd things to help him in his Sickness, then put him ashore to the Deputy Governour, and the rest of the Spanish Officers, who gave us a Certificate, that they receiv’d such a Person.

I shall here give a Description of the Isle of Guam.

The Island of Guam Describ’d

THis Island is about 40 Leagues round; the Anchoring Place is on the W. Side, and about the Middle there’s a large Cove, with several Houses built after the Spanish Mode, with Accommodations for the Officers and Crew of the Acapulco Ship, the Settlement being made here on purpose for that Ship to recruit at, in her Way to Manila. There are about 300 Spaniards on this and the Neighbouring Islands; most of the Natives are their Converts. They told us they have 8 Fathers, 6 of whom teach School, besides performing their Offices as Clergymen. They have also Schools taught by Mullattoes and Indians, who have learn’d the Language, so that most of the Natives understand Spanish. The Spaniards inform me, that there’s a Range of Islands from hence to Japan. Among which there are several abound with Gold, and they were now building a small Vessel to discover them, in order to get a Trade.

The Island of Guam it self abounds with Oranges, Lemons, Citrons, Musk and Water Melons, which were brought hither by the Spaniards. The Orange Trees thrive very well here. The Island is full of Hills and Dales, and Streams of good Water. They have Plenty of Cattle, but small, poor, and generally white. The Indico Plant grows wild in such Abundance, that were they industrious, and had Coppers to boil it up, they might have great Quantities of that Commodity; but being so remote and out of the Way of Trade, they make no Use of it, nor do they improve any thing but what contributes to their present Subsistance; and having that, they are easie. Money is of so little Use, and so scarce among them, that they could not raise 1000 Dollars in the whole Island to purchase Commodities from us, which they would gladly have done. Here are about 200 Soldiers, who receive their Pay from Manila by a small Ship once per Ann. This Ship brings them Cloaths, Sugar, Rice, and Liquor, for which she carries back most of the Money again. This has made them of late sow Rice in their Valleys, and make other Improvements. They abound with Hogs, which are the best Pork in the World, because they feed altogether on Cocoa-Nutts, and Bread-Fruit, which are plentiful here; and were not the Spaniards slothful, they might have most Necessaries of their own Growth for the Maintenance of Life.

Their Bread Fruit I thought the most remarkable Thing on the Island. I saw some of it which was as large as Oranges, and much resembled them. They tell me, that when ripe they are three Times as large, and grow in many other Places near the Equinox in the East Indies. The Leaves are almost as large as those of Figs, something like them, but of a brown Colour. The Tree is large, and they have such Plenty of this Fruit in the Season, that they fatten their Hogs with them. The Fruit has no Stone, and by the Account they gave, the Inside resembles a dry Potato or Yam, with which they likewise abound.

The Wind blows constantly a S. E. Trade here, except during the Westerly Monsoons, which last from the Middle of June to the Middle of August.

The Governour lives on the N. side of the Island, where there’s a small Village, and a Convent, being the chief Habitation of the Spaniards. They marry with the Natives, and had not above four Spanish Women on the Island. The Indians are tall and strong, of a dark olive Colour, go all naked, except a Clout about their Posteriors, and the Women have little Petticoats. The Men are dextrous at flinging of Stones, which they make of Clay, of an oval Form, burning them, till as hard as Marble, and are so good Marks-men, that the Spaniards say, they seldom miss hitting any Mark, and throw it with such a Force, as to kill a Man at a considerable Distance. I heard of no other Weapons that they used, but a Stick or Lance made of the heaviest Wood in the Island.

At the Island of Guam.

The Governour presented us with one of their flying Prows, which I shall describe here because of the Odness of it. The Spaniards told me ’twould run 20 Leagues per Hour, which I think too large; but by what I saw, I verily believe, they may run 20 Miles or more in the Time, for when they viewed our Ships, they passed by us like a Bird flying. These Prows are about 30 Foot long, not above 2 broad, and about 3 deep; they have but one Mast which stands in the Middle, with a Mat Sail, made in the Form of a Ship’s Mizen. The Yard is slung in the Middle, and a Man sits at each End with a Paddle to steer her, so that when they go about, they don’t turn the Boat as we do to bring the Wind on the other side, but only change the Sail, so that the Tack and Sheet of the Sail are used alike, and the Boat’s Head and Stern are the same, only they change them, as Occasion requires, to sail either Way; for they are so narrow that they could not bear any Sail, were it not for Booms, that run out from the Windward Side, fasten’d to a large Log shap’d like a Boat, and near half as long, which becomes contiguous to the Boat. On these Booms a Stage is made above the Water, on a Level with the Side of the Boat, upon which they carry Goods or Passengers. The greatest inconveniency in sailing these Boats is before the Wind, for by the Out-layer, which is built out on one Side, if the Wind presses any thing heavy on the contrary Side, the Boat is over-set, which often happens; having brought one of these Boats to London, it might be worth fitting up to put in the Canal in St. James’s Park for a Curiosity, since we have none like it in this Part of the World.

As soon as the Boat return’d from landing Senior Figuro, we put under Sail, having a fine Breeze of Wind at E.N.E. We had generally fair Weather here in the Day Time, and Showers commonly in the Night, but very sultry. The Wind always off Shoar betwixt the E. and N.E. Our Decks are filled with Cattle and Provender.

A Table of Runs.

According to Promise, I have here inserted my Run from California to Guam.

A Table of each Days Run between Cape St. Lucas in California, and the Island of Guam.

1709/10 January Course. Dist. Lat. by Reck. & Observat. Long. W. from London. Diff. Lon. from Cape S. Lucas. Variation Easterly.

N. W. W.

12 E S. 22 30 W. 45 22 16 114 09 00 09 03 00

13 F S. 28 00 W. 66 21 18 114 42 00 42 02 50

14 G S. 33 45 W. 54 20 24 115 15 01 15 02 50

15 A S. 33 45 W. 52 19 25 115 45 01 45 02 50

16 B S. 33 45 W. 68 18 56 116 24 02 24 02 45

17 C S. 33 45 W. 72 18 00 117 06 03 06 02 45

18 D S. 35 10 W. 41 17 11 117 30 03 30 02 15

19 E S. 33 45 W. 62 16 32 118 05 04 05 02 00

20 F S. 43 40 W. 68 15 44 118 54 04 54 01 50

21 G S. 68 00 W. 83 15 00 120 15 06 15 01 30

22 A W. 06 48 S. 94 14 49 122 05 08 05 01 10

23 B W. 05 20 S. 152 14 36 124 25 10 25 00 50

24 C W. 04 00 S. 142 14 24 126 45 12 45 00 40

25 D W. 04 10 S. 151 13 14 129 05 15 05 00 45

26 E W. 05 25 S. 147 13 50 131 23 17 25 00 50

27 F W. 18 50 S. 97 13 29 132 58 18 58 01 00

28 G W. 88 13 29 134 41 20 41 01 10

29 A W. 03 00 S. 122 13 22 136 48 22 48 01 15

30 B W. 04 00 N. 146 13 27 139 21 25 21 01 25

31 C W. 04 00 N. 160 13 32 142 07 28 07 01 30

Feb. 1 D W. 143 13 32 144 37 30 37 01 40

2 E W. 04 00 N. 168 13 36 147 32 33 32 01 50

3 F W. 06 00 S. 160 13 26 150 18 36 18 02 00

4 G W. 156 13 26 153 02 39 02 02 10

5 A W. 130 13 26 155 19 41 19 02 25

6 B W. 137 13 26 157 43 43 43 02 30

7 C W. 02 00 S. 161 13 25 160 31 46 31 02 50

8 D W. 08 00 N. 144 13 41 163 00 49 00 03 00

9 E W. 130 13 41 165 18 51 18 03 20

10 F W. 01 00 N. 124 13 44 167 26 53 26 03 30

11 G W. 03 00 S. 146 13 36 169 56 55 56 03 45

12 A W. 01 00 S. 146 13 33 172 27 58 27 04 00

13 B W. 01 00 N. 148 13 36 175 00 61 00 04 30

14 C W. 02 00 S. 136 13 32 177 21 63 21 05 20

15 D W. 04 00 N. 125 13 40 179 28 65 28 06 30

16 E W. 04 00 N. 112 13 47 181 24 67 24 07 00

17 F W. 04 00 N. 114 13 54 183 22 69 22 07 30

18 G W. 01 00 S. 130 13 52 185 37 71 37 09 00

19 A W. 07 00 S. 122 13 40 187 42 73 42 10 15

20 B W. 07 00 S. 124 13 28 189 49 75 49 11 00

21 C W. 04 00 S. 98 13 21 191 30 77 30 11 30

22 D W. 05 00 S. 113 13 12 193 25 79 25 12 00

23 E W. 04 00 S. 70 13 07 194 37 80 37 11 50

24 F W. 01 30 N. 72 13 10 195 51 81 51 11 00

25 G W. 04 00 S. 118 13 03 197 51 83 51 10 00

26 A W. 01 30 S. 70 13 00 199 03 85 03 9 50

27 B W. 02 00 S. 71 12 57 200 16 86 16 9 30

28 C W. 02 00 S. 120 12 54 202 20 88 20 9 00

Mar. 1 D W. 02 00 N. 108 12 58 204 12 90 12 8 40

2 E W. 03 00 N. 110 13 04 206 06 92 06 8 20

3 F W. 01 00 N. 84 13 05 207 33 93 33 8 00

4 G W. 88 13 05 209 04 95 94 7 50

5 A W. 02 00 S. 106 13 02 211 54 96 54 7 30

6 B W. 02 48 N. 105 13 07 212 42 98 42 7 10

7 C W. 82 13 07 214 07 100 07 7 00

8 D W. 03 00 S. 78 13 03 215 28 101 28 6 50

9 E W. 03 00 N. 100 13 08 217 11 103 11 6 30

10 F W. 06 00 N. 74 13 16 218 27 104 27 5 40

At 3 a Clock in the Afternoon the Island of Guam bore W. by S. distant 10 Leagues.

From the Island of Guam towards Ternate.

1710 March 22. At 6 last Night, the Body of the Island Guam bore E. N. E. Dist. 8 Leagues, from whence we took our Departure, designing for Ternate, one of the Melucca Islands belonging to the Dutch, and distant from Guam, about 400 Leagues. We had a fresh Gale of Wind at N. E. and N. E. by E. with fair Weather, but very sultry. Lat. 12. 45. Var. 5. 30. E.

April 11. Nothing remarkable has occurr’d worth noting, but that we have generally had a strong Current setting to the Northward. At Two Yesterday Afternoon we made Land, bearing S. E. distant about 5 Leagues, being a low flat Island, all green, and full of Trees. Lat. 2. 54. N. This Island is not laid down in any Sea Chart; our Ship continues very leaky.

April 14. Yesterday in the Afternoon we saw Land, bearing W. S. W. 12 Leagues, being very high. The Current has set to the Northward this 24 Hours very strong. Lat. 1. 54.

April 15. Yesterday in the Afternoon we made other Land, which bore W. N. W. distant about 10 Leagues, and suppos’d it to be the N. E. Part of Celebes. We saw 3 Water-Spouts; one of which had like to have broke on the Marquiss, but the Dutchess by firing two Shot, broke it before it reach’d her. We saw a very large Tree a-float, with a Multitude of Fish about it; and 2 large Islands, the Southermost bearing S. W. distant about 8 Leagues, and the Northermost W. N. W. 7 Leagues, both being the same Land we saw Yesterday; and the latter we now suppose to be the S. E. Part of Moratay [Mortai] and the other the N. Part of Gilolo. At Noon the Southermost Land bore S. W. by S. 10 Leagues, and the Westermost 5 Leagues. N. Lat. 02. 13.

April 17. We having a Westerly Gale, and the Current setting against us, we gained little Ground in turning to get about Moratay. We had indifferent fair Weather all Night and Morning, but standing pretty much to the Southward, lost Sight of the Land, a strong Current setting to the Northward.

April 23. We had very stormy Weather for most Part since the 17th, the Marquiss and we suffer’d both in our Rigging. So that we begin to despair of getting to Windward of this Island Moratay, to reach Ternate, which is now near us; but we are obliged to keep Company with the Marquiss and Batchelor, who sail but very indifferent upon a Wind; and it’s the hardest upon our Ship’s Company, who are wearied almost to Death with continual Pumping, the Leak having encreas’d upon us since we came out of Guam, so that it is as much as 4 Men are able to keep her free Half an Hour, all the Watch being oblig’d to come to it once in 4 Hours.

April 29. We got 292 Lib. Weight of Bread from the Batchelor Yesterday Afternoon, in Exchange for Meat we sent ’em, which with what we had before, will last us about 20 Days, and not much longer. We begin to be very much disheartned, because Captain Dampier, who has been twice here, tells us, that if we can’t get Ternate, or find the Island Tyla [Tulur], we can reach no Port or Place to recruit at, and that it will be impossible to get Provisions for us on the Coast of New Guinea, should we be forc’d to go thither; upon which I sent my Opinion aboard of our Consorts, and desir’d they would call a Committee, and agree how to proceed next; which they did as follows.

At a Committee held on Board the Batchelor Frigat, April 29, 1710.

IT is agreed to make the best of our Way to the Island of Tula, where we are in Expectation of supplying our selves with Wood, Water and Provisions, to cruize 10 or 12 Days for this Island, being uncertain of its Scituation; and in Case the Wind should present sooner, that we can fetch Ternate, then to make the best of our Way for it; but if the Wind should not present for Ternate, nor the Island Tula, then, if we see Occasion, to make the best of our Way to some Port in Mindanao. And for all Opportunities in going about and carrying a Light, we leave it to Captain Courtney in the Dutchess.

May 2. We shaped our Course for Ternate a second Time, being in all Probability to the Westward of Gillolo, having made by our Reckoning 3 Degrees of Longitude to the Westward of Moratay.

May 3. About 8 this Morning we made Land, which we took to be some of the Islands lying off the N. East Part of Celebes. It bore W. S. W. of us, distant about 15 Leagues.

May 7. Fair Weather till 4 this Morning, when there came up a violent Shower, with great Flashes of Lightning. At Break of Day we saw Land trending from S. E. by S. to S. S. W. which at first appear’d like 5 Islands, but after it clear’d up, we plainly perceiv’d it was one continued Land; we also saw other Lands to the Westward of that, which bore W. by S. distant about 10 Leagues, and were of Opinion, that we were got to the Eastward of Gillolo a second Time. We were the more inclinable to believe this, because whenever we try’d the Current, we generally found it set to the Eastward very strong, tho’ we little thought it could have driven us so far back.

Sailing towards Gillolo, etc.

May 9. Yesterday in the Afternoon all the Officers met aboard us to consult about the Land, and what Course to take; but being divided in Opinions, we defer’d coming to a Resolution, till such Time as we were better satisfy’d. We try’d the Current at 4 a Clock, when it set N. N. W. after the Rate of 20 Miles in 24 Hours. We made no other Land all Day than that we first saw, so stood on and off all Night, expecting a Gale to run in with it in the Morning, but having Calms for the most Part, and a Current setting against us, we still lost Ground, and made another round high Hummock about Noon, which bore S. E. by E. distant 8 Leagues; the Southermost Land bearing at the same Time S. by E. 7 Leagues, and the Westermost W. by S. 8 Leagues.

May 10. I sent the Pinnace aboard the Marquiss with 12 Hogsheads and a Barrel of Water, their Stock being almost spent, and in their Way order’d ’em to speak with the Batchelor and Dutchess, to be satisfy’d what Allowance of Pady (being Rice in the Husk) their Men were at; because ours had a Notion they had more than we, I having order’d ’em but a Pound and a Quarter for 5 Men, whereas before they had two Pound. Upon Enquiry I found the Ship’s Companies far’d all alike; but to make ’em easie, agreed with Capt. Courtney and the rest to make it 2 Pound again; at which Allowance we have not above 12 Days at most, being all the Bread Kind we have in the Ship.

May 12. We were satisfied that the many Islands and Land that we saw for these several Days was the Straights of New Guinea; we spoke with the Dutchess, who had been near that Land where we perceived the greatest Opening, and they told us the Reason of their keeping in with the Shore was with a Design to have anchored, but meeting with irregular Soundings, did not think fit to adventure it. They sent their Boat ashore to the Eastermost small Island, to see what they could meet with. We stood within a Mile and half of the Shore, when the Water began to discolour. We sounded and had 30 Fathom Water, and presently after but 6; so we went about, and stood off till the Dutchess’s Boat return’d, who gave us an account that they had seen the Tracks of Turtle, and Mens Feet, with Fire-places lately made. These Islands are in the same Climate with the Spice Islands, and no doubt would produce Spice, if planted. I went on board the Dutchess, and agreed with Capt. Courtney to send the Pinnace ashore, standing on and off with our Ships all Night. Lat. 00. 24. S. Long. 236. 25. West from London.

May 13. We kept turning to Windward this 24 Hours, betwixt the Southermost long Track of Land we made first of all, and the Islands to the Eastward of it, where we expected to find the Passage betwixt Gillolo and New Guinea.

May 15. We being jealous of each other, who had the most Provisions, we this Day met aboard the Batchelor, and carried an Account with us of what each Ship had left, and on making a strict Rummage there, we found more Rice than we expected; so that with the shortest Allowance we may subsist at Sea above 3 Weeks longer. Each Ship’s Proportion of the Provisions we had left being weigh’d, we then return’d to our Ships in a better state than we expected.

May 18. We have passed several Islands, and are now in sight of what we account the Point or Cape of New Guinea, and the South End of Gillolo, which appears about 8 Leagues asunder, with some Islands near each side; we have commonly little Wind, and very verable. This being the Time that the S. East Monsoon begins, which made the Weather and Wind very uncertain. Lat. 2. S.

May 20. The Dutchess generally kept a-head in the Night, with her Pinnace a-head of her, because the Currents are so very uncertain, and being in an unknown Track, we cannot be too careful in the Night. We are still in sight of the High Lands of New Guinea, and several Islands to the Northward, which we find laid down in no Draught, so we noted them as we past by. This Way into India would not be half so dangerous as it is imagined, were it well known. While we had any Breeze of Wind, in the Day we towed our Prize. We made another long high Island trending from S. by E. to W.S.W. distant about 12 Leagues, and crowded along Shore to make what it was, judging it to be the Island Ceram. We likewise made another Island to the Northward, which bore N. by W. distant about 7 Leagues. S. Lat. 03.

May 21. Being close under it, I sent the Pinnace aboard the Dutchess yesterday Afternoon to know what they made of the Land, and what they design’d to do; their Boat met ours, and told ’em Capt. Dampier was of the same Opinion with us, that it is the Island Ceram.

Sailing towards the Island of Bouton.

May 22. Had an ugly Gale of Wind, which drove us clear off the Island we took to be Ceram. Since the 18th that we past the Streights of New Guinea, we have had a Westerly Current, but before the Current generally set to the Eastward. We have now dark gloomy Weather, with a strong Gale of Wind at S. E. and S. E. by E. runs us out of sight of all the Land. Our Ship is still very leaky, and we begin to be in the utmost want of all manner of Refreshments and Necessaries, and doubtful where to harbour or refit, the Land being unknown to us for want of good Drafts, or an experienc’d Pilot. Lat. 3. 40. S. Long. 237. 21. W. from London.

May 24. We were in expectation of making Land this Morning, being in the Latitude of the Island Bouro, which is about 20 Leagues to the S.W. of Ceram, and near the same Distance in a parallel with Amboyna; the latter of which we design’d to have touch’d at, had the Wind been favourable; but the S. E. Monsoon being now set in, we are almost out of hopes of fetching it, and still doubtful what Islands we pass’d by last, not agreeing whether it was Ceram or Bouro. We found by our Observation at Noon, that we were in the Latitude of the Southermost part of Bouro, and the Reason of our not seeing of it we impute to the Current’s setting us to the Westward of it. S. Lat. 04. 30. Long. 237. 29. West from Lond.

May 25. I spared the Dutchess a But of Water, they having little or none but what they catch when it rains. We came to a Resolution to spend no more Time in search of Bouro, nor to wait for a Wind to carry us to Amboyna, but to make the best of our way for the Straights of Bouton, where if we arrived safe, we might get Provisions enough to carry us to Batavia; pursuant to which Agreement we hall’d away S.W. by S. for ’em, having a fresh Gale of Wind at East; but by 2 in the Morning we fell in with a parcel of Islands to the Eastward of Bouton, and had infallibly been ashore upon one of ’em, had not the Weather cleared up at once. We made a Shift, and wore the Ships, then stood off N. E. from the Land till Day-break, when we saw it trenting from S. by E. to S. W. by S. about 6 Leagues distant, which made like a fine large Bay, but as we stood in perceived an Opening, and that there were 2 Islands, with 3 lying thwart the Out-let to the Southward of both. We hoisted out our Pinnace, and sent her ashore, the Dutchess did the same; from whence they brought off some Cocoa Nuts, which were very plentiful here, and told us there were Malayan Inhabitants, who seem’d to be very friendly. We kept turning in with our Ships, and our Boats sounding a-head, designing to anchor, if we could find any Ground, but found none with 60 and 80 Fathom Line. We saw Land to the N.W. of us, which we took to be the Island Bouton, being pretty high, and distant 8 or 10 Leagues. S. Lat. 05. 00. Long. 237. 51.

May 26. We could get no Anchor Ground all Yesterday Afternoon, tho’ we run our Boltsprit almost ashore, and having the Current setting against us, made it a tiresome Piece of work to fetch within the reach of the Houses. At last some of the Inhabitants came off in a Canoe to our Boats, as they were sounding a-head; they brought ’em aboard, and by Signs we understood there was plenty of Provisions ashore. So I sent the Pinnace and Yawl to see what they could meet with. In the mean time came several Canoes full of Malayans, with Cocoa Nuts, Pumpkins, Indian Corn, Fowls, &c. to truck with our People. Ashore they had Sheep and Black Cattle in plenty. The Officers I sent were admitted into the Presence of their King and Nobles, who were all bare-foot, and most naked, save a Clout about their Posteriors; they seem’d to be very courteous, and ready to supply us with what we wanted. We lay by and drove till Morning (having little Wind) that we might be nearer the other Ships, and resolve what to do. We found no Anchor-ground, but too near the Shore, and the Current setting strong to the S. W. and driving us out; which together with our having no Anchor-ground, if the Wind should take us out of the Sea, made us desist to attempt any farther here. We agreed to stand over for the Land to the Westward of us, the Northermost part of which bore W. N. W. distant 9 Leagues, and the Westermost W. by S. 10 Leagues. The Inhabitants call’d the Eastermost of these Islands Vanseat, the other next to it Capota, and the Westermost Cambaver. S. Lat. 05. 13. Long. 238. 11. W.

May 27. We stood from these Islands to the Westward, and ran along Shore as near as we durst, to weather the Westermost Point of Land, where we expected to find a Harbour, but as we near’d it, found a long Tract of High Land, trending to the Southward, as far as S.W. by S.

At the Island of Bouton.

We agreed in Opinion that ’twas the Island Bouton, but that we had over-shot the Straights. We made Sail to see if we could discover any Land further to the Southward; but finding none, we jogg’d on, keeping the Wind as near as possible, because of the Current, which sets strong to the S.W. By 2 a Clock in the Morning we were hors’d near a small Island, that bore S. S. W. of us about 2 Leagues; but having clear Weather, we stood from it till Day-break, there being no other Land near it that we saw, except that we came from, which we had open’d 5 Points farther to the Westward. I was unwilling to act any farther without the Consent of the Committee; so the major part of us met aboard the Dutchess, where we agreed to stand back and make the Land plain, so as to be fully satisfied what it was, and withal to find a Recruit of Water and Wood before we proceed any farther, being in want of every thing. S. Lat. 05. 50. Long. W. from London, 238. 38.

May 28. According to Agreement we stood back, and having a fresh Breeze of Wind at East, came up with the Land, which trended from N. E. by E. to N. We stood away with the Northermost, and by 6 a Clock brought it to bear E. by N. distant about 2 Leagues, having open’d Land farther to the Northward, which made like a Bay, and trimming to the Westward as far as W. N. W. distant about 10 Leagues. We made little or no Sail all Night, because the Batchelor and Marquiss were a-stern, and we were not willing to run too far in with the Land in the Night. In the Morning ’twas calm, and being clear Weather, we made all the Land very plain from W. S. W. to the E. S. E. making high double Land, with Islands under it. Most of it look’d as if it was inhabited, being pretty thick of Wood, and promised fair for other Refreshments, but we could find no Anchor-ground hitherto.

May 29. A Breeze sprung up, and we ran farther in, keeping nearest the Southern Shore, where we open’d a sandy Spit, off which we could perceive blue Water like Shold-ground running a-cross the Bay near half a League. A little to the Westward of this we got Ground in betwixt 30 and 40 Fathom Water, with good gradual Soundings, where we let go our Anchor. The Dutchess and the rest standing over to the other side of the Bay, could meet with no Ground, so they came back, and anchored by us. S. Lat. 05. 41. Long. 238. 34. W. from London. A little before this, our Boat we had sent returned from the Shore, having by Presents engag’d a Canoe with some Malayans to come aboard with them, but for want of a Linguist we were little the better. I sent to the Batchelor, who had one, but Capt. Dover refus’d to let him come to me, altho’ he had no use for him; then I sent a second time, that I might know the best anchoring Place for our Ships, and treated the People (who were impatient to be gone) with Sweet-meats and other things they fancy’d, but could not keep ’em, or send them aboard the Batchelor to secure her, seeing white Shole Water near us. But they pass’d by us in danger of running on the Sholes, not knowing the best anchoring Place, for want of the Linguist I so earnestly desir’d, to understand the Malayans that had now left us. At parting they made Signs, and pointed to the Land to the Northward, which they call’d Booloo. Our Pilot, Capt. Dampier, says he has been formerly thro’ the Streights, and in his Book tells us of a Town near the South part of ’em, where the King resided, but he knew nothing of it now, except the bare Story. Upon this we agreed to send one of the Pinnaces along with him and the Linguist to find out the Town, being willing to venture him to wait on his Majesty the King of Bouton to solicit for a Supply of Provisions, which we would gladly pay for; and to make the better Appearance, we sent Mr. Vanbrugh and Mr. Connely along with him. The Water flows here above 15 Foot; there are Places near to the Town which lie to the Northward about 6 Leagues, from whence we rode where a Ship might, on Occasion, be laid a-shoar to refit; and we should have carry’d the Duke there to stop her Leak, but were not willing to loose Time, since we found it did not encrease more than one Pump could vent, which we had Men enough to keep continually going.

The King of Bouton has several Galleys built after a peculiar Form, and other small Imbarkations, on which, they say, he can imbark eight Thousand Men on any Expedition; our People that were upon the Island tell me, all their Towns are built on Precipices, and hard to get at, and that the Chief City was built on the Top of a Hill, to which there was only one Passage very steep. We found a watering Place from a Spring out of the Rocks, but difficult to fill out of, because of its Ebbing and Flowing here, almost 3 Fathom, which dries the Rock near the Shoar.

At Anchor at the Island of Bouton.

May 30. This Morning a Messenger came from the King, with a Letter from our Officers that went to wait upon him, who were receiv’d very courteously, and promis’d a Supply of Provisions, in Case we could come to an Agreement. We show’d the Gentlemen Samples of what we had to dispose of, which they seem’d very well pleas’d with, and having made ’em a Present of some odd Things, and entertain’d ’em as well as we could, we dispatch’d ’em with a Letter of Directions to our Officers what to do, and at their going off saluted ’em with 5 Guns and 3 Huzza’s from each Ship. We made a Present to the King of a Bishop’s Cap, being of little or no Value to us, but what he highly esteem’d and gratefully accepted of. The Inhabitants began to come off fast enough with Indian Corn, Cocoa-Nutts, Pumpkins, Fowles, &c. to truck with our People, but they were very dear, compar’d with the other Islands we had been at.

June 1. We supply’d our selves indifferent well with Wood and Water, and our Pinnace return’d from the Town, with a mysterious Account of their Proceedings, and presently after Captain Dampier came with a small Quantity of Provisions, as a Present to the Commanders, having left our other two Officers to dispatch away what they could agree for.

June 2. This Morning there came 3 or 4 of the better Sort from the Town, with a Portuguese Linguist that belong’d to Batavia, under Pretence of looking upon Goods, and carrying Samples of ’em to their King, but by their Trifling, we are afraid we shall get nothing of ’em at last. We made much of the Portuguese, and gave him a small Present, hoping he would influence the People to dispatch our Business. We sent the Dutchess Pinnace with a Letter to our Officers, to hurry away as fast as possible with what Provisions they had got, and to agree if they could with the Portuguese Linguist for a Pilot, if they should give him 10 or 20 Dollars or more for a Present.

June 3 and 4. Our Ships have done Watering and Wooding, and the Country People have brought off much Provisions: so we conclude we are pretty well supplied for a Fortnight or Three Weeks; which, with what we had before, may carry us to Batavia, without any further Recruit from the Town; so that if we had our Boat and Men, it would be much more for our Interest to be gone, than to lie here, and spend time to no Purpose. An Officer aboard our Ship, and other Officers and Men aboard Capt. Courtney, began to be mutinous, and form a Conspiracy against us; but we prevented it, by chastising their Leaders, whom we put in Irons, on board different Ships, to break the Knot, which might otherwise have ruin’d the Voyage.

June 5. The Dutchess’s Pinnace return’d with Mr. Connely, who acquainted us with the dilatory Proceedings of the King of Bouton, who having got a Quantity of Provisions together, would have oblig’d us to take it at an extravagant Price, and detain’d Mr. Vanbrugh, till such time as the Money was paid. In the Morning, there came some of his Nobility, with about 4 Last of Rice, which (for Dispatch-sake) we immediately agreed for, and a Cask of Rack, and after we had entertain’d ’em as well as Time and Place would afford, we sent ’em off in our Pinnance. This Morning, the Portugueze Linguist came with some Provisions of his own, to sell, without any News from our People, which made us suspect they had some ill Design upon us, therefore we design’d to keep him till the Boat return’d, but he got out of the Ship, before we were aware, (he being jealous by his cold Reception, that we were uneasy) and rowed away as fast as possible. I sent the Yawl after him, which overtaking his Canoe, the Men all jumpt over board, but the Dutchess’s Pinnace took ’em up, and our Boat brought the Portugueze Linguist aboard us, where seeing he was likely to be confin’d, he sent the Boat with the Men up to the Town, to desire our People might be dismiss’d as soon as possible.

June 7. This Morning our Pinnace return’d with Mr. Vanbrugh, and all our Men, having parted very friendly with his Majesty, but could not get a Pilot for Money; however we resolv’d to stay no longer, and to trust wholly to Almighty Providence for our future Preservation. We dismiss’d the Portugueze Linguist, and began to unmoor our Ships.

We weigh’d on the 8th, about 4 in the Afternoon, and by six a Clock the Westermost Land in sight bore W. N. W. 9 Leagues, and the Southermost S.W. by S. distant 5 Leagues.

Bouton Describ’d.

Sailing from Bouton to Batavia.

THE Island of Bouton is in Lat. 05. 20. S. and near about 30 Leagues long; the King, they say, can raise fifty Thousand Men, and has all the adjacent Islands under him; they boast of not valuing the Dutch, but I am satisfied, their Poverty is their greatest Security; they speak the Malayan Language, which is universal amongst all the Islands of India. They are a well-set People, of a middle Stature, or rather small, of a dark Olive Colour, with the most indifferent Features of any People, that ever I saw; they profess the Mahometan Religion, but know little of it, save Bathing; a few other Ceremonies, as Forbearance of Hogs Flesh, keeping many Wives, &c. Here were several Mahometan Missionaries that came from Arabia and Persia to propagate their Doctrine; the Dutch have no Settlement here, but trade for Slaves and a little Gold, the Climate being near the same with the Dutch Spice Islands, I admire, they don’t raise Quantities of Spice, but no Sort of it grows here, save a few Nutmegs.

June 9. In the Morning we made Land, from S. W. to N. W. by W. distant about 8 Leagues, which we took to be the Islands of Zalayer [Salayer], S. Lat. 5. 45. Long. W from Lond. 240°. 21´´. We likewise saw a Sail to Windward of us, and taking it to be a Dutch Vessel, we hall’d nearer the Wind, till 8 a Clock, then the Dutchess and we made Sail at once, to speak with her, but the Wind abating soon after, and she making the best of her Way from us, we mann’d our Pinnace, and sent it after her. We made 3 Islands to the Northward of Zalayer, and the Looming of other Land to the Westward of all, which we took to be the Southermost part of Celebes.

June 10. Our Pinnaces came up with this small Vessel, who told them they were bound for Macassar, a Dutch Factory on the South Part of Celebes: The Pinnace took the Master of her aboard, (being a Malayan) who promis’d to pilot us not only through the Streights of Zalayer, but to Batavia, if we would keep it secret, for fear of the Dutch. He sent his Vessel to lie in the narrow Passage, between the Islands, till such Time as our Ships came up. About 4 a Clock we enter’d the Streight, and came betwixt the Islands that are next to Zalayer. And another little one to the Northward of that being the middlemost of the three; where we found a good Passage, 3 Leagues over, all deep Water, steering through N. W. by W. to give the Larboard Islands a good Birth; then we made the Southermost Part of Celebes.

June 11. The Pilot promis’d to carry us thro’ the Channel the great Dutch Ships generally went for Batavia, and by that Means avoid the Shoals call’d the Brill and Bunker Ground; the Brill has very uneven Soundings, and in many Places but 3 Fathom Water and less, so we hall’d away to the Northward, keeping the Islands Celebes aboard, the S. W. Part of which trents away in low Land, with high Mountains at the back of it; and off the Point their lies a Rock pretty high and remarkable; at 4 a Clock we came into Soundings, and had 10 Fathom the first Cast; the Rock off the S. W. Point bore then N. distant about 6 Leagues, and we had an Island a head of us, from N. W. by W. to N. N. W. being low and level, about 3 Leagues long, and near the same Distance from the main as we enter’d betwixt ’em, it grew narrower. We stem’d with the North Part of the Island, till we came within a League and half of it, then steer’d North a little to weather a Spit of Sand, lying off the Island, by which Means we open’d 3 small Keys; after we were clear of the Shoal, we hall’d up N.W. about 7, and came to an Anchor under the Island, behind the Spit of Sand, in 10 Fathom Water, very good clean Ground. The Rock of Celebes then bore N. E. by N. 4 Leagues; the Northermost of the Keys, W. 2 Leagues; and the middlemost W. S. W. 3 Leagues: The other being shut in with the long Island. We kept the Lead going all the way constantly through, and had never less than 6 Fathom, nor more than 10. As soon as it was Day we weigh’d, and went betwixt the two small Keys, keeping nearest the Northernmost, sounding all the Way, and had no more than 10 Fathom. The Water still deepning, being clear of them, we hall’d away West, and then S. W. having a fresh Gale of Wind at S. E. and S. E. by E. no Land in sight at Noon but Part of the high Land of Celebes, which bore East, distant about 12 Leagues. It is well for us, that we met with this Pilot, for having no good Charts, nor any one acquainted with those Seas, we had run greater Hazards.

June 13. We made Land a second time, which bore S. W. by W. distant 6 Leagues.

June 14. We ran by the Island Madura, which is about 40 Leagues long, lying East and West, on the N. Side of Java, the Land we made in the Morning, being the N. E. part of it, which agreeing with the Pilot’s Knowledge made us the more certain.

Sailing from Bouton towards Batavia.

June 15. In the Morning we fell in with the Coast of Java, near the high Land of Japara, which bore W. by S. distant about 5 Leagues. We had Soundings betwixt 10 and 20 Fathom good easy Ground, and saw abundance of Fishing-boats, but all kept at a Distance. We got our Guns out of the Hold, and scal’d them, in order to be in a Readiness against we come to Batavia, where in all Probability we shall get in 2 or 3 Days more, it being not above 90 Leagues from this Place: By Noon we brought the Land of Japara to bear S. by E. distant 4 Leagues, having open’d a large deep Bay, with other high Land, further to the Westward, which bore W. N. W. distant 9 Leagues, Lat. 6°. 19´´. S. Long. 248°. 47´´. W. from London.

June 16. We made a small high Hummock to the Westward of the high Land we set yesterday Noon, which, at 6 a Clock bore W. by S. distant 5 Leagues. We hall’d off N. W. by W. and W. N. W. and in the Morning made the Islands of Caraman Java [Crimon Java], which bore N. E. by N. distant 3 Leagues, as also a ragged Island to the Eastward of it, bearing E. N. E. 5 Leagues, and 5 small Keys to the Westward, which are all call’d Caraman Java [Crimon Java]. We had Soundings most part of this 24 Hours, betwixt 20 and 30 Fathom ouzy Ground. Lat. 6. 7. S. Long. 250. 14. W. from London.

June 17. We made the high Land of Cheribon, which bore S. W. In the Morning we saw a great Ship right a head, and being very eager to hear News, I sent our Pinnace aboard to know what she was. She prov’d a Dutch Ship, about 600 Tuns, and 50 Guns, belonging to Batavia, and was plying to some of the Dutch Factories for Timber. They told us of Prince George’s Death, which we heard of in the South Seas, but gave no Credit to it then; That the Wars continued in Europe; and that we had good Success in Flanders, and but little else where. They likewise told us, that ’twas about 30 Dutch Leagues from hence to Batavia; but no Danger. We borrowed a large Draft, which was very useful to us, and left ’em at Anchor. Towards Noon we made the Land, being very low, but had gradual Soundings, by which we was satisfied in the Night how to sail by the Sand.

June 20. In the Afternoon we saw the Ships in the Road of Batavia, betwixt 30 and 40 Sail, great and small, and got happily to Anchor just after Sun set, betwixt 6 and 7 Fathom Water, at the long desired Port of Batavia. Lat. 6. 10 S. Long. 252. 51. W. from London. By our Reckoning here, we alter’d our Account of Time, having, as customary, lost almost one Day in running West so far round the Globe.

June 22. We waited on his Excellency the Governour-General, whom we acquainted with the Necessity we lay under to refit our Ships. He was pleased to see and approve of our Commissions, as Private Men of War, and promis’d he would meet the Council, and soon resolve us how far he could afford such Assistance as we desired.

June 30. I am still very weak and thin, but I hope to get Time and Leisure to recover my Health. During these 10 Days, I was not able to go much on board, and whenever I went, found, that till then I was a Stranger to the Humours of our Ship’s Company. Some of them were hugging each other, others blessing themselves that they were come to such a glorious Place for Punch, where they could have Arack for 8 Pence per Gallon, and Sugar for 1 Peny a Pound; others quarrelling who should make the next Bowl, for now the Labour was worth more than the Liquor, whereas a few Weeks past, a Bowl of Punch to them was worth half the Voyage. 8 Days ago the Doctor cut a large Musket Shot out of my Mouth, which had been there near 6 Months, ever since I was first wounded; we reckon’d it a Piece of my Jaw-bone, the upper and lower Jaw being much broken, and almost closed together, so that the Doctor had much ado to come at the Shot, to get it out. I had also several Pieces of my Foot and Heel-bone taken out, but God be thanked, am now in a fair way to have the Use of my Foot, and to recover my Health. The Hole the Shot made in my Face is now scarce discernable. I propos’d the calling of a Committee to regulate our Affairs, wherein we agreed as follows.

At a Committee, held on board the Batchelor Frigat, June 30. 1710. in the Road of Batavia.

Impr.

IT is agreed to pack and repack all Goods that appear damag’d, and to let other Bails, that are not, nor have not been apparently damag’d, to be only new cover’d with Wax cloth, or Tarpawlins, if necessary, in every Ship, and that Mr. Vanbrugh and Mr. Goodall be at every Place, and the rest of the Agents be accountable to ’em, and they to leave a Duplicate of the whole with the other two, and be always ready to give an Account to a general Committee.

Transactions in Batavia Road.

2dly, That Capt. Courtney do provide the Ships with all manner of Necessaries, as fast an wanting; and as soon as Captain Rogers is in Health, that he assist in it, and that every one give a List to ’em of what they want from time to time; that Mr. Charles Pope do continue a-shore, and send off Provisions for all the Ships, and keep a Book of the whole. Let every Ship take their daily turn to divide the Meat, and send it off as early as possible, in a Country Boat, and as near at he can no more nor less than 350 lb weight; every other Day, or as often as he can conveniently. Let him send off Greens, Carrots, Eggs, or any other small Refreshment, more than the common Allowance, to be equally divided with the Meat.

3dly, That a suitable Quantity of Rack and Sugar be sent aboard each Ship, to give a Quart a Mess to the Ships Companies, but whilst on the careen, the Allowance may be enlarg’d as the commanding Officers think convenient.

4thly, If any thing not included is necessary to the Dispatch and Out-set of our Ships, considering the Trouble and Loss of Time, to meet in a whole Committee, we to prevent dilatory Proceedings, unanimously leave such things to Capt. Thomas Dover, Capt. Woodes Rogers, Capt. Stephen Courtney, and Capt. Edward Cooke, who are to agree on a Time and Place to meet, and have the same Power in this Affair as a whole Committee. That if any thing required such Dispatch that the four cannot be present at a time, then any three of them together, agreeing and signing what they have done for the Satisfaction of the rest shall be sufficient; but otherwise we desire them to act in conjunction.

5thly, We agree to continue Mr. Carleton Vanbrugh Agent of the Duke. Mr. James Goodall Agent of the Dutchess, to make Mr. John Viger Agent of the Batchelor, and Mr. Joseph Parker Agent of the Marquiss, to keep a strict Account of what they can in each Ship, and to preserve and take Care of the general Interest, to the utmost of their Power.

6thly, We likewise agree to divide the Plunder on board the Batchelor, and in order thereto, we appoint Capt. William Dampier, and Mr. Thomas Glendall, to be Judges what ought to be divided as Plunder, who are to govern themselves as near as possible by our Resolutions, in a Committee of the 9th of July, 1709. And in order to dispatch Matters quietly without loss of time, we appoint Mr. John Ballett, Mr. Lancelot Appleby, Mr. Alexander Selkirk, and Mr. Joseph Smith, to act for the Officers, in apprising and dividing the said Plunder, and we allow the Sailors to agree on a Man from each Ship, who is to act in conjunction with them, and in the whole to promote the general Good with the utmost Sincerity and Dispatch. We also appoint Mr. Carleton Vanbrugh, and Mr. James Goodall to be in the Place when the Plunder is open’d or divided, and to receive what belongs to the Cargo.

7thly, It’s farther resolved for our general Safety that all trading be prohibited by any of us with the Inhabitants of this City of Batavia, or this Island of Java, or any part of India. And to the End that no Person may plead Ignorance, a Protest shall be drawn up and published at the Mast of each Ship, prohibiting the aforesaid Commerce, and protesting against all Damages arising through the same, and the Person found guilty of it.

8thly, It is also agreed, That a Reward of 100 Rix-Dollars shall be given to the Pilot we made use of from the Streights of Zelaya to this Port.

9thly, It is further agreed, That the Marquiss shall go first upon the careen; and then to be next followed by the Duke; the Dutchess to be the last.

10thly, We have consider’d the Charge and Method of our Out-sett, and do agree, in order to promote Dispatch, that 10000 Pieces of 8 be deliver’d to Capts. Dover, Rogers, Courtney, and Cooke, to morrow being the 1st of July, 1710.

Sign’d by the Majority of our Council.

The Committee did likewise resolve on a Supply of Money to the Officers, as follows.

At a Committee held in Batavia Road, July 1. 1710.

WE have resolved to supply these Officers of the Duke, Dutchess, Marquiss, and Batchelor, with the following Sums, to provide themselves with Necessaries in our long Passage to Europe.

Pieces of Eight.

To Captain Thomas Dover2000

Captain Rogers, and Captain Courtney, for their present Expences400

Captain Cook800

Mr. Fry and Mr. Stretton1000

Captain Dampier200

Mr. Pope350

Mr. Glendall, and Mr. Connely700

Mr. Vanbrugh250

Mr. Tho. Bridge, and Mr. Milbourne100

Mr. Knowlman, and Mr. Selkirk80

To the Three Doctors of the Duke, Dutchess, and Marquiss90

To the Doctor of the Batchelor20

To Mr. Goodall, and Mr. Appleby80

Total 6070

Transactions at Batavia.

All these Sums we order’d Mr. Vanbrugh and Mr. Goodall to discharge out of the Money on Board the Duke or Dutchess, as either Commanders shall think convenient, whenever the above-mentioned Officers shall demand it, and the Receipts to Mr. Vanbrugh and Mr. Goodall, so far as is here order’d, shall be sufficient. Witness our Hands, July 1, 1710.

Signed by the Majority of our Council.

July 2. From the 22d of the last Month we lay leaky and in a very ordinary Condition, not knowing when and how the General would please to order us Assistance, according to our present Necessities, which were then laid open to him; and this Day, to shew that we could sufficiently vindicate and justifie all our Proceedings like honest Men, we gave in an Abstract of our Voyage, from the Day we set sail out of King Road, to the Day we arrived in Batavia, which they desir’d to see, before they would assist us; so we gave it ’em as short as possible.

July 7. To Day our Men finished appraising and dividing the Plunder-Cloth in the Batchelor; which being tolerable good, amounts to about 400 l. Sterling.

July 8. This Day, after a great many dilatory Answers, we were at last permitted to make Preparations for careening at Horn Island, which is about 2 or 3 Leagues to the Northward of the Road, (but were by no Means suffer’d to go to the Island Unrest, where all the Dutch Ships are clean’d) being only allow’d 8 or 10 Malayan Caulkers and small Vessels to put our Goods in. The Marquiss began to careen aboard her; but the Carpenters having view’d her betwixt Wind and Water, finding her very bad, and that she had but a single Bottom, eat to a Honey-comb by the Worms, they judg’d her altogether unfit to go to Europe; whereupon I desir’d the Committee to meet and agree to dispose of her, as follows.

IT is agreed, that having now discharged the Marquiss of her Cargoe brought from the South Sea, and finding great Part thereof perish’d thro’ the Weakness of the Ship, and Damage of the Worms, which had eaten thro’ her Bends, and good Part of her Bottom like a perfect Honey-Comb; we have consider’d our present Condition, with the great Charge and Lost of Time to repair her here, and judging our 3 Ships sufficient, and capable to carry the remaining Part of her Cargoe: We, according to the best of our Judgment and Information from a View made by the Carpenters, do believe it for our Safety and Benefit for the Concern’d, to sell she said Ship the Marquiss here, as soon as possible, for the most she will yield; and we do appoint Capt. Woodes Rogers, Capt. Steph. Courtney, Capt. Edw. Cook, and Capt. Tho. Dover, to treat of and conclude the Sale, letting the Purchaser have sufficient Power (as far as we are capable) to condemn her.

Sign’d by the Officers of the Committee.

July 20. The Marquiss being condemned to Sale, we had the Caulkers aboard us to make all Manner of Dispatch for careening. Our Ship being very leaky, we thought it high Time to wait on the Governour with the following Representation, which we got put into Dutch, but could not get the Sabandar to introduce us, as the Custom is here, therefore we went our selves, and gave Presents to the Dutch Guards to let us in to see the General; after an Hours waiting we were admitted, and deliver’d him a Copy of our Commissions, and were promis’d Assistance, but find it’s no more than what he can’t have a Pretence to deny us.

Our Memorial was as follows.

To His Excellency the Governour-General and Council of the Dutch East-India Company.

ABout four Weeks ago we arriv’d here, and waited upon your Excellency, acquainting you with our Circumstances, which according to your Order we delivered the same Day in Writing to your Sabandar, and have daily waited upon him for your Resolution thereupon. He has since visited our several Ships, and we question not but all Things appear’d to him agreeable to our Representation.

We have lain some time ready with leaky Ships to go to the Place appointed us to careen at, only waiting for a careening Vessel to heave down by. Which we humbly crave you will be pleas’d to order us.

Delays are very prejudicial to our Ships, that have been long without the Benefit of a Friend’s Port. Which we earnestly request, you’ll please to consider.

We have deferr’d troubling you, in daily Hopes of an Order for our Assistance by the proper Officer, till we can no longer account for our Loss of Time, without a direct Application.

We hope for a Continuance of the common Benefits and Refreshments, and on our Parts shall persevere to behave our selves with all due Regard and Respect to the Government and Customs of this City.

Batavia, July 20. 1710.

Woodes Rogers. Steph. Courtney.

The Governour immediately order’d us a Vessel to careen, and we took our Leaves.

July 23. We went over to Horn Island, having a Pilot to direct us, and a Sampan[149] ready to heave down by, and take in our Guns, Carriages, &c. anchor’d on the South side of the Island, in 5 Fathom Water, about a Stone’s Cast off Shore, where we careen’d.

We continued refitting our Ships, and re-packing our Goods, with a great deal of difficulty, till the 13th of September, during which time nothing remarkable happen’d, but that, after I had refitted as well as I could on Horn Island, I return’d to the Road of Batavia. Many of our Men fell ill of Fevers and Fluxes, occasion’d, as I was inform’d, by their drinking the Water upon the Island. We buried here John Bridge our Master, as also the Gunner of the Dutchess, with another of her Crew, and one belonging to the Batchelor. The Season being so far spent, and the Wind blowing fresh on Horn Island, I could not go again thither to careen my Ship, tho’ she needed it much; therefore we try’d to get an Order to careen at Unrest, where the Dutch careen their own, as we might have done ours, in a few Days, and with little Trouble. I wrote from hence on the 21st of August to my Owners by the Nathanael, an English E. India Ship bound directly for England, to let them know of our safe Arrival here with our Effects, and that we hoped to be with them in a very short time.

On the 15th we called a Committee, and came to the following Resolutions.

Batavia, Sept. 15. 1710.

AT a Committee held then, it it agreed to divide the Money received for a Quantity of Plate sold amongst the several Ships Company, being what had been adjudged Plunder. Also that we should make out a Request, and deliver it the first Opportunity to the General, to the following Purpose, viz. to gain Leave, if possible, to careen the Duke at Unrest, &c. Also for Leave to set up the Marquiss for Sale here, and for a Supply of 10 Hogsheads of Dutch Beef and Pork, with a Permission to buy and carry aboard some Rack and Sugar for the 3 Ships Stores for our Company, &c.

It is also agreed to allow the following Particulars for the use of the Officers in the Great Cabbin of each Ship, viz.

To each Ship as followeth.

Two Firkins of Butter.

Two Gallons of Sweet Oil.

400 Cask of Bread or Rusk.

100 Pound Weight of Flower.

400 Pound Weight of Tamarinds.

Half a Leaguer[150] of Spelman’s Neep, or the best sort of

Arrack.[151]

3 Cheeses.

The Third part of a Leaguer of Cape Wine.

3 Peckel of fine Sugar.

Also 60 Dollars of Spanish Money to buy small Necessaries.

Signed,

Tho. Dover, Pres.William Dampier,

Woodes Rogers,Cha. Pope,

Steph. Courtney, William Stretton,

Edw. Cooke,John Connely.

Rummaging to day in the Powder room, we found a Leak 3 or 4 Foot under Water, which we did our best to stop.

All English Ships are allowed by the Government here half a Leaguer of Arrack a Man for the Ships Use, and ’tis counted as part of the Provisions, but our Boats are not suffer’d to bring the least thing off Shore, without being first severely searched. This, tho’ we pay more, will likewise hinder all manner of Traffick with any one here. Our chief

Transactions at Batavia.

Officers have also prevented it aboard, and narrowly watch our Crews; so that I doubt they’ll want several Necessaries that this Place affords. This we do to avoid giving the India Company in England any Pretence to clamour against us at home, on account of our trading here without their Permission. We requested the Governour to have Liberty to sell the Marquiss by Inventory to the highest Bidder at a publick Sale; but the Sabandar, or chief Custom-house Officer for Foreigners, told us it was the Governour and Council’s Resolution to publish at the Sale, that if any Dutch Freeman should purchase the Ship, they must either rip her up or burn her. This we thought another great Hardship, that we could not get Dutch Carpenters at Liberty to careen and refit her at Unrest, nor get Freedom of Sale; so we drew up a Request, and got it put in Dutch, resolving to wait on the General, to set forth the Hardships we were under; and likewise requested to careen the Duke at Unrest, where we might have Dutch Carpenters, that being the only fit Place; now the Weather and Wind was changeable, and we could not do it at any other Island: But when Capt. Courtney and I came to the Castle, to wait on the General, the Guards told us, They had Orders, that no Englishman should be admitted without the Sabandar, and that they durst carry no Paper or Message from us to the Governour-General. We waited till past the middle of the Day, and then address’d our selves to one of the Rads of India, who us’d to listen to the English, when any was impos’d on: He treated us very handsomly, with our Linguists, Mr. Vanbrugh and Mr. Swart, at his House, and said, He believed we had not Justice done us; but the Sabandar being the General’s near Relation, he should make Enemies, if he appear’d in our Affair, and could advise us no better than to try what we could do again with the Sabandar, who we knew was inflexible; so we were forced to be silent and let this drop, that we might dispatch for the Cape of Good Hope, as fast as possible; the best Season for our Passage being now at hand.

July 30. The Plunder-Money was shar’d on the 24th Instant, which amounted to 26 Shillings a-share, being what was adjudg’d as Plunder, when at the Island Gorgona, to which I refer.

Octob. 7. This Week we made all Preparation for sailing, having got most of our Stores aboard, and discharged the Marquiss, which was so leaky that we sold her to Capt. John Opey, Commander of the Oley Frigate, lately arriv’d from London, for 575 Dutch Dollars, being an extraordinary Bargain; we had been offer’d much more before by another Person, but then I could not prevail with the Majority of our Council to consent to the Sale.

Octob. 12. At Day-break this Morning, we, our Consort and Prize, weigh’d out of the Road, taking the first of the Land Breeze: About Noon came too again, in 11 Fathom Water, about a Mile to the Northward of Horn Island. We had several English Gentlemen a-board our Ships, who favour’d us with their Company out of the Road, there being several that arriv’d during our Stay here.

English Ships that arriv’d and sail’d hence during our Stay.

Frederick, Capt. Phrip, arriv’d June 23. sail’d July 29. from Bencouli, bound to ditto.

Rochester, Capt. Stains, arriv’d July 6. sail’d the 21st, from England, bound to China.

Nathanael, Capt. Neagers, arriv’d July 27. sail’d Aug. 27. from Bencouli, bound to England.

Stringer, Capt. Pike, arriv’d Aug. 30. from England, bound to China. We left her there, she having lost her Passage for China.

Oley, Capt. Opie, arriv’d Sept. 9. from England, left there behind us.

Here follows,

A Description of Batavia.

A Description of Batavia.

Altho’ this Place is well known, and has been so frequently describ’d, yet being such a noble Settlement, and a Proof of the Industry of the Dutch in these Parts; I can’t omit giving the following Account of it. The Town lies on the N. W. side of the Island of Java, Lat. 5°. 50´´. S. The Time we were here it was not very healthy. The East and West Winds blow all the Year along the Shore, besides the ordinary Land and Sea Winds, which qualifie the Air, and makes it pleasant, otherwise it would be excessive hot. Their Summer begins in May, with continual Breezes from the East, and a very clear Sky till the latter End of October, or Beginning of November, when the Winter begins with hard Rains, which holds sometimes 3 or 4 Days without Intermission. In December the West Winds blow very violently, so that then there’s little Trade on the Coast of Java. In February ’tis changeable Weather, with sudden Thunderstorms. In March they begin to sow: June is their pleasantest Month; in September they gather in their Sugar and Rice; and in October they have Plenty of Fruit and Flowers, Plants and Herbs of most Sorts: There’s a large fenny plain Country before the City, but it’s well improv’d by the Dutch, and to the Eastward, ’tis very full of Woods and Morasses. The City is four square, with a River running through it, and fortified by a Stone Wall and 22 Bastions. About 10 Years past there was an Earthquake, which broke down part of the Mountains, in the Country, and alter’d the Course of the River, so that the Canals in and about Batavia, are not near so commodious as they have been, nor the Entrance into the River so deep, and for want of a strong Current of Water, to keep it open, they are forced to employ a large Engine work’d with Horses, to preserve the Entrance of the River navigable for small Vessels to come into the Canals of the City. It lies on a Bay in and about which there are 17 or 18 Islands, which so break off the Sea, that tho’ the Road is very large, yet it is safe. The Banks of the Canals through the City are fac’d with Stone on both Sides, as far as the Boom, which is shut up every Night, at 9 a Clock, and guarded by Soldiers; there’s Channels cut out of the main River for smaller Vessels, and every one that passes the Boom pays Custom. All the Streets run in a streight Line, most of them being above 30 Foot broad, on each side clear of the Canals, and pav’d next the Houses with Bricks. All the Streets are very well built and inhabited, 15 of which have Canals, and they reckon 56 Bridges on them, most of them made of Stone. The Country Seats and Buildings round the City, are generally neat and well contriv’d with handsom Gardens for Fruit and Flowers, and adorn’d with Springs, Fountains, Statues, &c. The vast Quantity of Coco nut Trees, every where afford delightful and profitable Groves. They have fine Structures here, particularly the Cross Church, built of Stone, and the inside very neat. There are 2 other Churches for the Dutch, and 2 for the Portugueze Protestants; who are a mixed Breed of People. There is one Church also for the Protestant Malayans. The Town-house is built of Brick, in a Square, about the Center of the City; ’tis two lofty Stories high, and very finely built, where all Courts of Advice are held, and all Matters relating to the Civil Government of the City are determin’d, and the Senators and Directors of military Affairs meet. There’s an inner Court inclos’d with a high Wall, and a double Row of Stone Pillars, where the Officers of Justice live. Here are Hospitals, Spin-houses, and Rasp-houses, the same as in Amsterdam, with all other publick Buildings, equal to most Cities in Europe. The Chinese have also a large Hospital in this City for their Aged and Sick Persons, and manage their Charity so well, that you never see a Chinese look despicable in the street. The Dutch Women have greater Privileges in India than in Holland, or any where else; for on slight Occasions they are often divorc’d from their Husbands, and share the Estate betwixt them. A Lawyer told me at Batavia, he has known out of 58 Causes, all depending in the Council-Chamber, 52 of them were Divorces. Great Numbers of the Natives, who are Criminals, and not executed after Condemnation, are chain’d by Pairs, and kept at hard Labour under a Guard, perpetually clearing the Canals and Moats round the City, or any other Labour for the publick. Three Leagues West from the Town, is the Island Unrest, where all the Company’s Ships are refitted. There are great Magazines of Naval Stores, defended by Platforms of Guns; and the Castle at Batavia is Quadrangular, lies in a Level, and has 4 Bastions and Courtins, fac’d with white Stones, and provided with Watch-houses. In this Castle, or rather Citadel, the Dutch Governour-General, and most of the Members of the Council of India, with the other Officers of Batavia, have their Residence. The Governour’s Pallace is of Brick, large and well built. In this Pallace is the Council-Chamber, the Secretary’s Office and Chamber of Accounts. The great Hall is hung with bright Armour, Ensigns, Flags, &c. taken by the Dutch here. The Governour gives Audience to Strangers who are introduc’d to him by the Sabandar, who is chief Custom-master. Here is also a Church within the Castle, and an Armory with Apartments for all the Artificers belonging to the Castle, which has 4 Gates, and all the Avenues well defended, the whole being surrounded with Ditches and the Works well mounted with Brass Cannon, as are the Bastions of the Town with Block-houses within the Walls, so that they can fire upon Mutineers within, as well as upon an Enemy without. The Out-works of the Town, of which there are several every way at 4 Leagues Distance, are made of Earth, surrounded with Ditches and Quick-set Hedges, which render them Arbours for Beauty, and some of them fac’d with Brick. The Garrison on Duty is generally about 1000 strong, and all the Out-works are said to be furnish’d with a good Stock of Provisions as well as the Castle; but the Soldiers are kept much under, except the Governour’s Guards, who have large Privileges, and make a fine Appearance. The Governour-General lives in as great Splendor as a King; he has a Train and Guards, having a Troop of Horse, and a Company of Foot, with Halberds, in Liveries of yellow Satin, richly adorn’d with Silver Laces and Fringes, to attend his Coach when he goes abroad. The Guards are as well equipp’d as most Princes in Europe: His Lady has also her Guards and Train. He is chosen but for 3 Years, out of the 24 Counsellors call’d Rads of India, 12 of whom must always reside in the City. The Chinese have the greatest Trade here, farm most of the Excise and Customs, live according to their own Laws and idolatrous Worship, and have a Chief that manages their Affairs with the Company, who allow them great Privileges, and particularly a Representative in Council, who has a Vote when any Chinese is tried for Life: But these Privileges are allow’d only to such Chinese as inhabit here, for others are not admitted to stay above 6 Months in the Town, or on the Island Java. The other Strangers, who inhabit here, besides Europeans, are Malayans, with some People from most part of India. The Javanese, or ancient Natives are numerous, and said to be barbarous and proud, of a dark Colour, with flat Faces, thin short black Hair, large Eye-brows and Cheeks. The Men are strong limb’d, but the Women small; the former have a Wrapper of Callicoe, 3 or 4 times round their Bodies, and the latter from their Arm-pits to their Knees. The Men have 2 or 3 Wives besides Concubines, and the Dutch say, they are much addicted to lying and stealing: Those on the Coast are generally Mahometans, but the others Pagans. The Women are not so tawny as the Men, and many of them handsom, but in general amorous, and unfaithful to their Husbands or others, being very apt to give Poison, which they do very cunningly. It would be too tedious for me to describe all the remarkable Things I saw at Batavia. In short, I was perfectly surpriz’d, when I came hither, to see such a noble City, and Europeans so well settled in the Indies. The Town is very populous, but not one Sixth of them Dutch. The Chineze here go all bare-headed, with their Hair roul’d up, and long Gowns, carrying Fans in their Hands. The Dutch say they are more industrious and acute in Trade than themselves. The Discipline and Order of the Dutch here, both in Civil and Military Affairs, is admirable. They have all Necessaries for Building and Careening Ships, as well as in Europe, and their Officers as regular as in her Majesty’s Yards; whereas we have nothing like it in India. They keep the Natives very much in Awe, being perfectly despotical in their Government over them, because they say the Natives are naturally so treacherous that they are obliged to punish them severely, for small Faults; but they are favourable to the Chineze, because of the great Trade they have by their Means, and that they pay great Rents for their Shops, besides large Taxes, and from 16 to 30 per Cent. for Money, which they frequently borrow of the Dutch. I was told, there are about 80000 on the Island, who pay the Dutch a Dollar a head, each Month, for Liberty to wear their Hair, which they are not allow’d to do at home, since they were conquer’d by the Tartars. There comes hither from China 14 or 16 large Junks yearly, being flat bottom’d Vessels, from 3 to 500 Tuns a-piece. The Merchants come along with their Goods, which are lodg’d in different Partitions in the Vessel, like Ware-houses, for which they pay a certain Price, and not for the Weight or Measure of their Cargo, as we do; so that they fill them with what they please. They come in with an Easterly Monsoon, and generally arrive in November or December, and return the Beginning of June, so that the Dutch have all Chineze Commodities brought to them cheaper than they can fetch them; and being conveniently situated for the Spice Trade, they have all in their own Hands. Batavia wants no Commodities that India affords. ’Tis Pity our East India Company has no Settlement to which the Chineze might resort; which I presume would turn to a much better Account than our going to China does, where our Traders are but indifferently us’d. ’Tis about 5 Years since we quitted Benjar, in the Island of Borneo, which, by all the Accounts I had here, might, if well improv’d, have been as serviceable to our East India Company as Batavia is to the Dutch, who have seldom less than 20 Sail of Ships at the Isle of Java, from 30 to 50 and 60 Guns each, with Men enough for them on all Occasions, so that they might easily drive us out of most Parts, if not all India, should we ever have an unfortunate War with them. Their Soldiers are Sailing from Batavia. very well train’d, and there’s a Company always on Duty at every Gate of the City and Citadel; and they have 7 or 8000 disciplin’d Europeans in and about the City, who can be ready for Action, at a very short Warning: ’Tis the Metropolis of their Indian Settlements, and sends Governours and Officers to all the rest: The late General, before we came hither, had War with the Indians, which, I was inform’d, had like to have spoil’d their Settlements; but at last, they divided the Natives amongst themselves, brought them to a Peace on advantageous Conditions, and are now pretty secure of the Sea-Coasts. There are many pleasant Seats about the City, and the adjacent Country abounds with Rice, Sugar-Cane-fields, Gardens and Orchards, Mills for Sugar, Corn, and Gun-powder; so that this City is one of the pleasantest in the World. I don’t think it so large as Bristol, but ’tis more populous: They have Schools for Latin, Greek, &c. and a Printing House. They have lately begun to plant Coffee here, which thrives very well, so that in a little time they may be able to load a Ship or two; but I am told it is not so good as that of Arabia.

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