Volume 2 / Part 2 — APPENDIX III.
Reading edition
Observations during a Voyage of Research on the East Coast of Africa, from Cape Guardafui south to the Island of Zanzibar, in the H. C.’s cruisers Ternate, (Captain T. Smee,) and Sylph schooner (Lieutenant Hardy). With short notes by Richard F. Burton.
January 2nd (1811), Wednesday. Sailed from Bombay in company with our consort, the Sylph schooner, Lieut. Hardy, having under convoy two merchant vessels bound to Mocha.
3rd, Thursday. Spoke Lieut. Hardy, who informed us his chronometer had unfortunately stopped: at noon the thermometer in the shade stood at 79°, lat. obsd. 18° 16′ N., long. 71° 36′ E., wind fresh from N.N.E. with fair weather.
4th, Friday. We had fine weather with a light northeasterly wind. Our thermometer, which had been fixed in the companion-hatch of the gun-room, was yesterday in the evening removed to a more exposed situation, to the Captain’s cabin on deck. At noon to-day observed it had fallen to 78°, being one degree lower than yesterday: lat. 17° 48′ N., long. 69° 47′ E.
5th, Saturday. During the preceding night a heavy 459dew had fallen, but the air to-day felt pleasantly dry and cool. Thermometer 77½°, lat. 17° 29′ N., long. 68° 46′ E.
6th, Sunday. We were in lat. 16° N., long. 66° 45′ E., thermometer stationary at 77½°.
7th, Monday. In lat. 16° 13′ N., long. 64° 29′ E. The thermometer at 76°, light winds from the N.E. with cool weather.
8th, Tuesday. The weather still continued delightful with a pleasant north-easterly breeze. The thermometer at 75°, lat. to-day at noon 15° 44′ N., long. per chronometer 62° 30′ E.; by a lunar observation taken at 8 P.M. 61° 53′, variation of the compass per azimuth 52 miles west.
9th, Wednesday. In lat. 15° 32′ N., long. by chronometer 60° 44′ E.; and by a lunar taken at 8 P.M. 60° 55′55′. No alteration in the state of the winds or weather, and the thermometer remained at 75°.
10th, Thursday. In lat. 15° 2′ N., long. per chronometer 58° 54′ E.; at 8 P.M. by lunar 58° 27′ E.; thermometer 76°.
11th, Friday. Lat. 14° 40′, long. per chronometer 47° 11′ E., and by lunar at 8 P.M. 56° 20′. The thermometer at 77°.
12th, Saturday. We parted with the convoy, and, changing our course from W. to S.S.W., we steered toward the Island of Socotra. At noon observed an immense shoal of porpoises about half a mile astern of us, passing with great velocity in a direction from the north to the south-east. In the evening a rank smell of fish spawn was strongly perceptible. Thermometer at noon 77½°, lat. 14° 35′ N., long. by chronometer 55° 37′ E. The wind from the east, with fine weather, and a cloudy sky. 460About sunset the appearance of what seemed to be land, in the west part of the horizon, produced considerable alarm, which was soon dissipated, on observing that the clouds which caused this strange and remarkable deception began to alter their forms.
14th, Monday. We sounded, but found no ground, with a line of 80 fathoms. Made sail again at daybreak, and steering W. by S. coasted along the south side of the island about 15 miles from the shore. Lat. 12° 27′ N., long. by chronometer at noon 54° 57′ E. At 2 P.M. the eastern extremity of Socotra bore N. by W., and, according to our observations, is situated in lat. 12° 34′ N.; in longitude, from the chronometer at noon, 45° 45′ 33″, E.
15th, Tuesday. Continued our course along shore, in from 18 to 27 fathoms, over a bottom of red coral. Socotra towards the south presents an appearance extremely dreary; its arid rocks seemed destitute of trees or verdure of any kind, at least, none were visible to us, though frequently examined through our best glasses at only a few miles distance. On approaching it from the east, land showed in the form of a high promontory, termed by 461navigators the Dolphin’s nose.[83] As we brought the south cape of the island abreast of us an extensive rocky precipice of considerable height, and remarkable for its uniformity in this respect, approaching close to the water’s edge, concealed the land in the interior and appeared to occupy the whole centre of the island, the land at each extremity terminating in irregular mountains, some of which on the east are of a good height. We ascertained the position of the south cape or headland to be in lat. 12° 20′ N., long. 53° 37′ E., and that of the western extremity as far as visible in lat. 12° 24′ N., long. 53° 26′ E. Continuing to steer W. by S., we saw the two small square isles called by the English The Brothers, bearing about 50 miles W.S.W. of the south cape of Socotra; the eastern one named by the Arabs Duraga,[84] or Degree Island, is situated, according to our observation, in lat. 12° 7′ N., long. 53° 23′ E.; from the east it has very much the appearance of a castle or citadel. The other, called Sumhaa, is about 8 or 10 miles west of Duraja, has a remarkable rocky process on one end bearing a striking resemblance to a sentry-box or watch-tower. Its position is in lat. 20° 8′ N., long. 53° 18′ E. The weather still fine, with a cloudy sky, the thermometer at 76½; lat. to-day at noon 12° 2′ N., long. per chronometer 53° 30′ E.
16th, Wednesday. Pursuing our course west and by 462south, we at noon passed the Island of Abdulcuria,[85] the disjointed rocks of which appeared at a distance like so many separate isles. It extends in a N.W. and N.E. direction, and bears from the south Cape of Socotra W. by S. 100 miles, and 50 miles W. 1/2 S. of the Brothers; the island is an appendage of Socotra, to the chief of which it is subject; it is said to afford plenty of fresh water.[86] Passing this island, the high land on the eastern extremity of the African Continent presented itself to our view, and at 9 P.M. we hove to with the ship’s head to the S.E.—Cape Guardafui, bearing W. by N. 1/2 N., distant 9 or 10 leagues. We were still favoured with fine cool weather, the thermometer at 77°, with light winds varying from N.E. to E. and S.E., and the sky generally overspread with light-coloured clouds: with the exception of the night of the 5th, no dew has fallen since we sailed. Lat. at noon 11° 49′ N.; long. by chronometer 52° 13′ E., variation by azimuth 5° 31′ W.; the position of Abdulcuria according to our observations is in North lat. 12°, and long. 52° 20′ E.
17th, Thursday. At sunrise made sail again, steering in a S.W. direction along the Continent of Africa in from 35 to 70 fathoms,—white sand and coral; but about 4 P.M. it falling calm, and finding a current setting us inshore at the rate of half-a-mile an hour, came to in 38 fathoms to prevent ourselves being imbayed. At 6, a 463breeze springing up from the eastward, encouraged us to make another attempt, but presently dying away, we were again obliged to anchor. While lying here we put out our lines and caught one fine rock-fish, which are probably very plentiful, as we observed our consort, the Sylph, haul up several in a short space of time. At 10 P.M. weighed with a light easterly wind, and stood to the S.E. We had this day cloudy weather, with light variable winds; the thermometer at 78½°. Lat. 11° 41′ N.; long. per chronometer at noon 51° 14′ S. According to this as Cape Guardafui is in N. lat. 11° 49′, long. 51° 13′ E.
18th, Friday. Working off shore with light baffling winds, in from 45 to 55 fathoms, sand. The weather cloudy, with slight showers of rain, and a lowering sky. A considerable dew had fallen during the night, and the air to-day felt damp and unpleasant. The thermometer at 78½°; found the current setting us in-shore at the rate of one mile per hour. Lat. 11° 30′ N.; long. by chronometer at noon 51° 31′ 15″ E.
19th, Saturday. Dew at night, and during the day southerly winds continued to prevail with damp cloudy weather, and occasional showers of rain; the thermometer at 78½°. Tacking off and on shore, we had in the course of the day another sight of the Island of Abdulcuria and the Brothers, the former bearing N.W. of us, and the latter in a north-easterly direction. Lat. obsd. 11° 42′ N.; long. by lunar at 9 A.M. 51° 56′, and by chronometer at noon 52° 5′, E., variation by azimuth 7° W. About 6 P.M. in attempting to tack, the ship refused to stay, and, in consequence, got foul of the Sylph, which we at the time had in tow. Fortunately, however, after some alarm and a little trouble, we soon got clear again, without 464material damage being sustained by either vessel.
20th, Sunday. Continued working along the African shore with fresh southerly winds, the thermometer at 79½°, Cape Guardafui and the Brothers still in sight. Abdulcuria at sunset bore N. and by E. of us distant 14 or 15 leagues. Lat. 11° 27′ N.; long. per lunar at 9 A.M., 52° 24′ E., and by chron. at noon 52° 29′ E., variation per azimuth 6½° W.
21st, Monday. Still working against the southerly winds; no land in sight. The thermometer at 79½°. Lat. observed at noon 10° 50′ N.; long. by lunar at 10 A.M. 52° 37′, and by chron. at noon 52° 43′ E., variation, 8° 20′ W.
22nd, Tuesday. During the early part of the day fresh southerly winds, with the thermometer at 79½°. Towards the evening it fell calm, when we lowered the boat and tried the current; found it setting to the northward at the rate of half a knot an hour. Lat. observed 10° 43′ N.; long. by chron. 53° E.
23rd, Wednesday. We had light southerly winds and calm in the morning, but a northerly breeze springing up in the afternoon permitted us to lay our course S.W. Still no land to be seen. The thermometer at 79½°. Lat. observed 10° 28′ N.; long. by chron. 53° E.
24th, Thursday. Steering W.S.W. with a fresh northerly breeze. The weather damp and misty, and frequent drizzling rain. Thermometer 78½°. Lat. observed 9° 8′ N.; long. by chron. 51° 55′ 15″ E.
25th, Friday. Proceeding westward, we in course of the forenoon saw land, which, as we now approached that part of the coast where the objects of our investigation lay, was looked to with anxious expectation. It bore 465N.W. by W. distant from us 5 or 6 leagues, and by the situation of the ship, knew it to be the land between Cape Orfui[87] and Cape Basseos:[88] as this coast has been hitherto considered as desert and inaccessible, we were anxious to examine it, but the thick haze which hung over the land, and the light winds and currents which we never failed to experience on nearing the shore, obliged us to heave off towards the evening to avoid getting imbayed; the land, as it appeared to us, seemed fully to justify the descriptions given of it. It seemed of a moderate uniform height, and barren and sandy, without vestige of habitation, or vegetable production of any kind. We hove to for a short time in the afternoon, and discovered by striking soundings in thirty fathoms, and suddenly deepening again, that we had happened on a sandbank, many of which probably lay along this coast. While we lay to the lines were put overboard, and shark and rock-fish of various kinds being found in great plenty, a good number was soon taken, sufficient to furnish the whole ship’s company with a fresh meal in the evening: made sail again, standing out from the land. We had to-day moderate north-easterly winds with fair weather; the thermometer at 80°. Lat. observed 8° 20′ N.; long. by chron. at noon 50° 32′ E.; variation 6° 12′ W. Immediately after discovering land, we perceived a large dow or boat close in shore, which appeared eager to avoid us.
26th, Saturday. At daylight we could see nothing either of the boat or land, having lost sight of both during the night. Standing in, we again saw the coast about 7 466in the morning. Its appearance was similar to what we sailed along the preceding day, only it was more flat, and considerably lower,[89] but equally barren. Kept our way along shore at the distance of about 6 or 8 miles, in from 10 to 25 fathoms, sand and shells. A little before sunset we hove to in 25 fathoms, and were again very successful in fishing. At 6 P.M. made sail, still keeping a respectable distance from the shore. The weather clear and warm, with steady easterly winds, the thermometer at 79½°. Lat. 7° 10′ N.; long. per chron. 49° 42′ 30″ E.
30th, Wednesday. Continued steering S.W. about 2½ miles from the land, in from 7 to 10 fathoms, white sand and coral, the Sylph keeping her course half way between us and the shore in regular soundings of 6 and 7 fathoms. This day’s sail presented the same barren prospect as the coast we had already traced; it was still low and sandy, remarkably white, and to all appearance completely desert; neither huts, people, nor cattle of any description to be observed. The shore was in many places rocky, and a high surf beat over it. At 2 P.M. breakers appeared ahead, distant less than 2 miles, and a little beyond them, low land, which seemed to be an island; to weather these it became necessary to haul off shore, and immediately after taking this precaution, the wind began again to blow exceeding fresh, with a very heavy swell, which forced us to continue standing out to 469sea during the whole night. Weather still damp and cloudy, and the thermometer at 79½. Lat. observed at noon 3° 30′ N.; long. by chron. 47° 25′ E.
31st, Thursday. The wind increased to a gale and blew furiously during the whole day and following night, attended with a tremendous heavy swell, which prevented us from approaching the shore near enough to see anything distinctly; we could only remark that the land seemed to be higher than what we had lately seen. Weather still damp and cloudy, and the thermometer at 79°. Lat. observed at noon 2° 44′ N.; long. by chron. 46° 5′ E.; variation by amplitude 10° W.
2nd, Saturday. Being driven from Magadosho the preceding night, we intended if possible to make Meeya or Maiea,[95] a place laid down about 14 or 15 miles to the S.W. of Madagascar. At twilight, however, saw nothing of such a place, and were again forced to stand out to sea during the night, when we must have passed it; for at noon to-day we were off the town of Brava in N. lat. 1° 11′, and long. 44° 9′ E. This town is situated under some very high reddish land, spotted with black rocks, and has several small islands abreast of it at a very short distance from the shore, one of which, to the southward, opposite a white sandy patch of high ground, has a tower or lighthouse on it. The land between Magadosho and Brava is uniformly high, and has that remarkable reddish appearance already so often described. Our bad fortune still persecuted us; we could not anchor here for the same reasons that had prevented us at Magadosho; we therefore yielded to our fate, and again took refuge in a secure distance from the shore. The houses of Brava are similar to those of Magadosho. The weather continued unaltered, with the thermometer at 80°; N. lat. observed at noon 1° 14′.
4th, Monday. About midnight the Sylph parted from her anchor, got under weigh early in the morning, and at noon passed the River Dos Fuegos, or the Rogues’ River, and Juba[96] Irunjba, a village situated at its mouth, but at too great a distance to make any particular observations. The coast for a little north of this river to Patta is faced by one continued chain of islands, some of which are large and wooded, others very small. These islands are sometimes connected by reefs[97] of rocks, over which a large surf beats, and sandbanks surround them. The reefs run through their whole length, frequently extending a considerable way out to sea; in one place, about 20 miles south of Juba, even to 7 or 8 miles, opposite which is a remarkable high insulated rock in-shore, appearing like a square tower; here also the reef stretches a long way out—perhaps 5 or 6 miles. Though there are no soundings close to the edge of this part of the bank, the water was remarked to have a very white colour, resembling that often seen at the mouths of large rivers. The land on this part of the Continent is in general moderately high, and almost 473universally covered with wood; the shore shelves to a smooth sandy beach, which is guarded by the islands and reefs noticed. Steady moderate north-easterly winds, with fine weather, but damp, and dews at night. The thermometer at 78½°. Lat. observed at noon 0° 24′ S.
5th, Tuesday. In course of the afternoon passed by a deep inlet where some boats were riding at anchor, and at sunset were abreast of several large woody islands supposed to be those immediately north of Patta; between 6 and 7 P.M. came to twelve fathoms, fine sand. That part of the coast of Africa stretching from the equator south beyond our present anchorage, promises in its aspect something very interesting to the enterprising investigator. The numerous richly-clothed islands which line the shore, separated by beautiful and frequently spacious inlets and bounded behind by a delightful continent, rich in all the charms of luxuriant vegetation, present to the eye a prospect extremely enchanting, and would seem to indicate a degree of natural wealth equal to the most favoured regions of the known globe. Nothing could form a more striking contrast with that in view than the barren coast to the eastward of Juba.[98] Fine steady easterly breeze, with pleasant weather. It is worthy of remark, since in the latitudes on this coast near the line, a heavy dew had been observed to begin falling immediately after the sun went down, and continued till some time after its rise next morning; during the day the air felt very dry,[99] thermometer at 79°. Lat. observed at noon 1° 23′ S.; long. per chron. at noon 41° 59′ E.; variation 13° W.
7th, Thursday. A boat with pilots arrived from Patta; got under weigh and proceeded through the passage at 4, 5, and 6 fathoms, and at 11 A.M. came to again in a very narrow part of it leading between the N.E. point of the island of Peer Patta and an extensive sandbank, dry at low water, which runs a long way out. All of these islands, 475namely, Peer Patta, Daw Patta, Mandra, &c., are faced with shoals of rocks and render the navigation very difficult, and should, with other considerations, deter trading vessels from frequenting this port. In the afternoon sent the small boat with our Hindostanee pilot to Patta, to acquaint the Sooltan of our arrival and intention of visiting him next day. Weather as heretofore. The position of this anchorage is in South lat. 2° 4′; long. by chron. 41° 14′ 2″; variation 14° W.
TRANSACTIONS AT PATTA.[102]
DESCRIPTION OF PATTA.
On the 9th, the same boat we met yesterday, and which returned with us to town, arrived at the ships with presents from the Sooltan, consisting of 60 cocoa-nuts, three white bullocks, and three goats in charge of one of his principal men, who came to receive the articles, the promise of which had been extorted during the interview at Patta. To give no cause for quarrel, the Sooltan’s present was accepted, but the boat was sent back with an answer that until Mallum Ali should be sent on board not a single article would be parted with. The pilots perceiving the boats go away without them, became very outrageous, and attempted to leap overboard, but finding themselves too well guarded, they desisted, and began to say (in direct contradiction to what they formerly asserted, and on the strength of which we had allowed ourselves to be brought to the present anchorage) that there was not water enough for the ships to get through the channel of the S.W., as the wind rendered it impossible for us to return the way we came in, and the above passage the only one by which we could keep clear of the shoals which 483surrounded us. We determined to detain the pilots till the ships were out of danger.
Next day, the 10th, the boat returned with Mallum Ali, though the promise given to the Sooltan was compulsory, and did not, strictly speaking, deserve the least regard; yet out of respect to the word and honour of an Englishman, as well as for the sake of any of our countrymen who might hereafter fall into their hands, and on whom they might be tempted to retaliate their disappointment, it was resolved to adhere to our extorted engagements as far as consistent with the safety of the ships. Therefore five muskets, two pistols, two barrels of gunpowder, two bundles of musket-ball cartridges, and 160 flints, being all we could spare, were delivered, with which they departed very well satisfied, and thus terminated this troublesome business.
From the 10th to the 12th we were occupied in getting through the S.W. channel, which proved a very tedious job. The pilots were either too ignorant or too unwilling to be of much service, and it became necessary to keep our boats out sounding in order to discover the passage, and direct the ships how to steer: we found it very narrow, and interrupted in two places by bars, on which at high water we found not more than one quarter less three fathoms. From the anchorage the channel ran W.S.W. 1/2 W., about half a mile, and then turned to the southward. In leading out on the 11th the Sylph grounded, but soon got off again; on the evening of the 12th, having got clear of the sands and rocks, dismissed the pilots, and stood out to sea during the night. Since anchoring at Patta the weather (with the exception of the morning of the 8th, when a few drops of rain fell) was 484fair with pleasant easterly winds, and heavy dews at night. The thermometer generally at 82°. The town, as near as we could ascertain (for we had no opportunity of determining it exactly), is in lat. 2° 8′ S., and long. by chron. 41° 13′ E., variation 14° W.
13th, Wednesday. No land in sight[110] during the day, and light easterly winds and calms prevailed with clear weather. Lat. at noon 2° 48′ S.
14th, Thursday. The course N.E. by E. Saw land bearing W.N.W., on which several large fires were burning, and at sunset were abreast of some small rocky islands, which seemed a continuation of the chain to the northward of Patta. Wind favourable. Lat. 2° 48′ S.
15th, Friday. In lat. 2° 41′ S., variation per azimuth 13° 29′ W. Fine weather, with light favourable winds.
19th, Tuesday. The town of Mombaze, or as the natives pronounce it Mampass, was abreast of us, distant two miles. The fort stands at a short distance from the shore on a steep woody ridge, said to be an island, and has three flagstaffs on it. A little to the N.E. three remarkable hills or hummocks[115] serve as good marks for finding the place. Its situation my be in S. lat. 4° 2′, and in long. 39° 41′ 30″ E. At noon spoke a boat with a cargo of slaves, two days from Zanzibar, and towards evening saw the Island of Pemba a-head; worked to windward during night to weather it. Pleasant easterly breezes, with fine clear weather. The thermometer at 80°. Lat. at noon 4° 7′ S., long. by chron. 39° 51′ E.
20th, Wednesday. No land in sight during the early part of the day, which was sultry and calm, but in course of the afternoon, a breeze springing up about sunset, saw the Island of Pemba bearing S. 1/2 W. four or five leagues. In the evening stood out to the eastward, intending 487to return next day and observe the position of this island. The thermometer at 81°. Lat. observed at noon 4° 34′ S.
21st, Thursday. At noon observed in 5° 7′ S. the east point of Pemba, bearing west about two miles. Pemba is a low even island of considerable extent, being perhaps 16 or 17 leagues[116] in length. It is entirely covered with wood, and appears well-peopled. The shore, generally low and steep to the water’s edge, shelves in some small spots to a sandy beach remarkably white, that at a distance shows like walls or pieces of buildings. Throughout its whole extent are numerous creeks or inlets, and towards the S. W. end is a deep bay with several small islands at its mouth, hitherto as far as I know undescribed. Fresh north-easterly winds and cloudy weather; the thermometer at 82½°. Stood to windward during the night.
22nd, Friday. At noon saw the Island of Zanzibar a-head; about sunset anchored in 25 fathoms, green mud, abreast of Timbat, the largest of the small woody islands at the north-west end of Zanzibar. A little after the Sylph came close to us: the thermometer at 82°; lat. observed at noon 5° 37′ S.
23rd, Saturday, 7 A.M. Weighed and stood along the western side of the island (the Sylph leading), in from 5 to 15 fathoms, and at 11 anchored in the harbour in 7 fathoms, mud. The town of Zanzibar, then S.W. by S., distant three-quarters of a mile. Each vessel saluted the fort with three guns, which was not returned. In course of the afternoon sent the boat ashore with the Interpreter to acquaint the Hakim of our arrival. Moderate northerly winds and fair weather.
Proceedings at Zanzibar, from the 25th February to the 9th April, 1811, with some account of the island.
The appearance of the island is extremely delightful. It is in general low, especially at the extremities, where it is thickly covered with a jungle and brushwood; but towards the middle the land rises into hills and gentle eminences, which are cultivated, and clothed with cocoa-nut trees. Besides the periodical rains which fall here from the month of March to September, the island itself is well-watered with a variety of springs, which unite and form a number of delightful streams, that flow during the dry season, and keep up that appearance of fertility and beauty, which it exhibits throughout the whole year. 490None of these streams are large: that at which the ships water[122] is situated about 1½ mile north of the town, where it flows into the sea, at the north entrance of the harbour. The water when first taken up is good, but from the quantity of putrid vegetable matter in suspension, upon keeping a short time it becomes very offensive both in taste and smell; in a few weeks, however, it regains its original sweetness. Ships ought always to fill at low water, else they will have it brackish. The climate of Zanzibar is similar to that of India, only the Monsoon, or rainy season, sets in sooner. From September to March the season is dry and warm; the rest of the months are rainy and tempestuous. During our stay the thermometer ranged from 80½ to 87½° at noon; and from the date of our arrival to the 5th of March, the weather was dry, cloudy, and warm, with northerly winds. From that, till our departure, it was in general cloudy, with frequent violent squalls of wind, and rain from the S.W., attended with much thunder and lightning.
494
A GENERAL VIEW OF THE EXPORTS AND IMPORTS OF ZANZIBAR.
Exports. Imports.
Slaves. Surat cloth From Cutch.
Ivory. Dungaree cloth
Drugs. Iron from Bombay.
Coir. Sugar and rice
Cocoa-nuts. Salt fish and Ghee, from Socotra.
Beeswax. Cloths, cotton From Surat.
Tortoise-shell. China ware
Earthen jars
Toys and ornaments
Rice, from Pemba.
Dates, from Gulf of Persia.
Slaves, ivory, and drugs From the African Coast.
Beeswax and
Tortoise shell
The inhabitants of Zanzibar consist of Arabs, descendants of Arabs from Souallie mothers. The Arabs are not very numerous; but the principal part of the slaves and landed property belong to them. A considerable number of Banians likewise reside in the town, many of whom appear to be wealthy, and hold the best part of the trade in their hands. The Souallies form by far the major part of the population, and are almost all slaves to the Arabs—800 or 900 of them sometimes belonging to one individual. They are in general purchasedpurchased in their native country on the opposite shores, when young, and are brought here by the slave merchants, who dispose of them either to the Arabs or to the merchants, &c., for exportation. Those are fortunate who fall into the hands of Arabs, who are justly famed for their mild treatment of their slaves. They 495are allowed a small habitation on their master’s estate; and not being overworked, and the fertile soil furnishing with little trouble the means for their subsistence, they seem to enjoy a considerable portion of contentment and happiness—a strong proof of which is, that they propagate freely.
All, however, are not equally well situated; and the advocates for the slave-trade ought to witness the market of Zanzibar, after which, if they possess the slightest spark of generous feeling, I will answer for an alteration in their present opinion. The show commences about 4 o’clock in the afternoon. The slaves, set off to the best advantage by having their skins cleaned, and burnished with cocoa—nut oil, their faces painted with red and white stripes, which is here esteemed elegance, and the hands, noses, ears, and feet, ornamented with a profusion of bracelets of gold and silver and jewels, are ranged in a line, commencing with the youngest, and increasing to the rear according to their size and age. At the head of this file, which is composed of all sexes and ages from 6 to 60, walks the person who owns them; behind, and at each side, two or three of his domestic slaves, armed with swords and spears, serve as a guard. Thus ordered, the procession begins, and passes through the market-place and principal streets; the owner holding forth, in a kind of song, the good qualities of his slaves and the high prices that have been offered for them. When any of them strikes a spectator’s fancy the line immediately stops, and a process of examination ensues, which, for minuteness, is unequalled in any cattle market in Europe. The intending purchaser having ascertained there is no defect in the 496faculties of speech, hearing, &c., that there is no disease present, and that the slave does not snore in sleeping, which is counted a very great fault, next proceeds to examine the person: the mouth and teeth are first inspected, and afterwards every part of the body in succession, not even excepting the breasts, &c., of the girls, many of whom I have seen handled in the most indecent manner in the public market by their purchasers; indeed, there is every reason to believe that the slave-dealers almost universally force the young females to submit to their lust previous to their being disposed of. The slave is then made to run or walk a little way, to show there is no defect about the feet; and after which, if the price be agreed to, they are stripped of their finery and delivered over to their future master. I have frequently counted between twenty and thirty of these files in the market, some of which contained about thirty. Women with children newly-born, hanging at their breasts, and others so old they can scarcely walk, are sometimes seen dragged about in this manner. I observed they had in general a very dejected look; some groups appeared so ill-fed that their bones seemed as if ready to penetrate the skin. From such scenes one turns away with pity and indignation, and while he execrates the conductor of this infamous traffic, blushes that his country should ever have sanctioned such iniquity, and remembers with exultation the men who freed her from so great a disgrace.
The Souallies have much more of the negro appearance than the Soomallies; they have both woolly hair, and their skins are of a deep black, but the Soomallie has neither the flat nose nor thick lips which distinguishes the negro, and which is a very prominent feature among the Souallies of Zanzibar. The Soomallies are also to be distinguished by their slender make, which renders them more active, and they possess a superior degree of vivacity to the others, who appear to be of a grave character. With regard to the religion and peculiar customs of these people, we had little opportunities of becoming acquainted with them. The Souallies of Zanzibar being under the sway of Arabs, in general adopt their manners; and as to religion, those who profess any, I believe, follow them in that likewise.
We did not observe that any of their domestic customs were singular enough to deserve a particular description, except one, which, though not peculiar to them, is perhaps carried to a greater length than in most other places. I allude to the manner in which they inter, or rather, expose, their dead. It is a habit all over the town to bury 498amongst the houses, commonly under a tree, close to the deceased person’s former habitation, which presents to a stranger the appearance of a churchyard, and it would be well if the eye alone was the only organ offended. Though the Arabs and wealthy are properly covered, and have neat tombs erected over them, the poor are only wrapped up in a mat, and have scarce sufficient sand thrown over the corpse to hide it from the view; indeed, some part of it is generally to be seen sticking through, and as to the slaves, they are often laid out to putrefy on the beach,[128] not a single rag of cloth or handful of earth being laid over them. In consequence of this disgusting practice the stench in and about the town is intolerable; and co-operating with the noxious effluvia which arises from the putrid vegetable matter during the rainy season, tends to produce fever and fluxes, which, we learned, make annually during that period dreadful ravages among the inhabitants.
The English have hitherto had very little communication with Zanzibar, though the French are frequently in the habit of coming there from the Mauritius for slaves and Mocha coffee. Previous to our arrival only one English vessel had touched at the island since Admiral Blankett’s squadron was there in 1799, on his passage up the coast to the Red Sea. Captain Bissel, whose account of that expedition is published by Dalrymple, says they were told no British ships had been there previous to that, within the memory of the oldest person then living, and that they found the natives of the inferior order so ignorant of the value of coin, as to prefer, in their exchanges, a gilt button to a guinea. This might have 499been the case then I will not dispute; but we not only found them well acquainted with money, but as dexterous at over-reaching in a bargain and exorbitant in their demands as any dealer in the bazaar of Bombay. They were, however, as he justly observes, very civil and hospitable, though not so much as he describes; but this difference was probably owing to the dislike which the Hakim showed to us. Our taking no hand in the slave-trade was remarked to have considerable influence among the generality of the lower people in giving them a favourable impression of our character, and for a contrary reason they never failed to execrate the French, notwithstanding they were favourites of their Hakims.
500Why the natives do not cultivate grain is hard to conceive; perhaps the great plenty of the cocoa-nuts and the mahogo, with the profusion of fruit, supersedes the necessity, and renders them averse to the labour, of raising corn, although their country must be exceedingly well adapted to it. The mahogo, which is the principal article of diet, is eaten by them either simply roasted or boiled, or it is cut into small pieces, which, being dried in the sun, is ground into flour, of which is made a very palatable kind of bread.
The operations of agriculture are not numerous, and indeed consist chiefly in clearing the ground; this is done by fire, and seems to be the practice throughout Africa. Within the tropics, where the luxuriancy of vegetation is so great, it would be a work of great labour, if not an absolute impossibility, to get rid of this in any other way. The time of doing it is at the end of the dry season, when the crops are collected and the rains are about to set in. In coming down the coast we observed fires all along the fertile country south of the line.
501Poultry is plentiful and cheap; sixteen large or eighteen small fowls may be bought for a dollar; but, what is a little extraordinary, eggs are both scarce and dear, and when procured are generally bad: they have also Muscovy ducks and Guinea-fowl, which last are found wild on the island. The variety of birds and wild fowl is not great. The principal are the whistling duck and curlews, and the ibis of the ancients, so numerous on the banks of the Nile, pigeons, doves, and a few others.
Spanish dollars and German crowns are the coins commonly current among them; and though they will take some others, they prefer these. Among the shoals and rocks which connect the small islands that surround the harbour, and in the harbour itself, delicious fish of great variety are usually taken in plenty, either with nets or with the line and hook; and those who will take the trouble to examine the shoals at low-water during spring-tides, will find their labour amply repaid by a collection of curious and rare shells, which for beauty are not to be surpassed by any in the known world.
Notwithstanding the heat of the climate, the vast quantity of wood, and filthy manners of the inhabitants, it does not appear that Zanzibar is an unhealthy island, except during the rainy season, when fevers and fluxes are, from the above causes, very prevalent, but which by proper regulations might be easily obviated. In a place where there is no medical assistance or receptacles for the diseased, it may be supposed numerous miserable objects would be met with; this, however, is not the case. In walking about the town, I did not remark a larger proportion of these unfortunate beings than is generally to be met with in most of our own settlements in India.
502Exclusive of fevers, dysentery, and their consequences, such as dropsy, obstruction, &c., no other disease appeared to be frequent except venereal, under which, in all its stages and forms, a very great number of persons laboured. Their fevers are often of the remittent form, but more frequently of the intermittent kind; and in addition to the consequences already noticed to follow them, sometimes terminate in an unusual weakness and pains over the body, particularly of the lower extremities, which cause sometimes a total loss of power.[131] I am unable with certainty to determine the cause of this; perhaps it may arise from their sleeping on wet or damp ground while confined with these disorders.
We now began to think of setting out on our return along the coast to Mocha; the wind had begun to set in steady from the S.W., and our consort, the Sylph, which it had been deemed advisable to convert into a brig, being ready to return to Bombay, whither we had orders to send her, we were about to depart, when a circumstance occurred which for some time delayed it.
The Surat merchants, who had often complained of the Hakim’s treatment, represented that he had demanded 3500 crowns from them as their proportion of the tribute exacted by the Imam of Muscat, and in failure of payment had threatened them with imprisonment. As these people were trading under the English flag, and were, in fact, British subjects, Captain Smee did not conceive that a foreign prince had any right to tax them, especially as they had already paid the customary port dues. Impressed with these sentiments, 504he made a representation to the Hakim, who in consequence withdrew his claims, but privately threatened the merchants with a double imposition after our departure.
To prevent this, it was determined to leave the Sylph to countenance them during their stay, and convoy them across to India at the breaking up of the rainy season. While the Hakim, who had been extremely inimical to us during our stay, and always anxious for us to be gone, informed us he was coming to return our visit; this he had on various pretences heretofore delayed; however, on Sunday, the 7th April, he came on board, when both ships dressed and saluted him, and he was, notwithstanding his ill-behaviour, treated with the greatest attention.
On Tuesday, the 9th, we weighed and sailed from Zanzibar, and in the evening came to anchor under the small Island of Timbat, at the north end of the island. On the morning of this day Henry Golding, a stout, healthy seaman, was found dead between decks: he had no known complaint at the time, and his death was supposed to have been caused by suffocation, as it was understood he went to sleep very much intoxicated. Having interred him on Frenchman’s Island, the watering boat returned on board, and reported they had found the body of a young female recently murdered, lying among the bushes at the freshwater stream; as they had no means of interesting the neighbours in her fate, they buried her immediately. On Wednesday, the 10th, we got under weigh, and passing between Pemba and the mainland, where there is a fine broad channel, we, without anything further remarkable occurring, anchored in Mocha Roads on the 26th April, 1811.
505RESUMÉ.
I fell in with the coast of Africa in lat. 9° 30′ N. on the 25th January, and from hence southward examined it as well as circumstances would permit. On the 7th February I anchored in Patta Harbour, and unfortunately found the country distracted by civil dissensions, originating from two rival cousins, who each laid claim to the Sooltanship. I found out the most popular, which happened to be the youngest, and on him I waited with my government letters, accompanied by Lieut. Hardy commanding the Sylph, and Mr Whigham, my surgeon. I must have been three or four hours reaching town, and after as long a detention there, and receiving some menacing insults, which will be particularly detailed on my return, I escaped from these wretches and reached the ship, much fatigued, some time after midnight, having been six hours in the boat returning. Finding the disposition of the natives precluded the success of any inquiries I had to make, it was deemed advisable to quit the port; but another difficulty arose, which points out the cunning treachery of these people: we were now told the vessel could not go out through the S.W. Channel (the only condition on which I entered the harbour), but must warp out the way we came in (a thing impossible against the prevailing wind and sea), or that we must wait the change of monsoon. Detecting their duplicity, I seized and detained two natives, who were concerned in bringing us in, and after two or three days spent in buoying off a channel unknown to them, with the top of high-water spring tides, grounding occasionally, we got the vessel providentially through the banks, 506and clear of Patta reefs, and then discharged the natives. Hence we proceeded southward along the coast, and on the 24th of February anchored in this fine harbour.
I waited on the Hakim and was kindly received; but the general conduct of this personage has since proved very unaccommodating. I was desirous during my stay here of procuring a house for the purpose of receiving the visits of the well-disposed, and unsuccessfully applied to the Hakim for one, or the use of a French factory for a few days. I am told he forbid any one to furnish me, and has used every endeavour to keep visitors away from the ship. He is a person warmly in the French interest, and derives great pecuniary advantages from the trade to this port. The welcome news of the capture of the Isle of France was brought here by the Surat vessels, which arrived in the middle of March. The Hakim would not credit the account, until it was confirmed by a ship from Muscat a few days ago.
The sum of the information I have been able to collect along the East Coast of Africa and at this port, is, I am sorry to say, very small. The first object of my search was the Doara river, which I was not fortunate enough to fall in with, from the strength of the prevailing winds and currents; if it exists it is doubtless a very small stream. Magadosho, in lat. 2° 3′ N., I could only ascertain the situation of: drifted past this. I hoped to see the town of Marca, but was disappointed. I have been informed that it is a very small village, less than Magadosho or Brava; that it has little or no trade. I arrived off the port of Brava, in lat. 1° 10′ N. under the same impediments—a high wind and sea, and strong 507currents, but expected to find shelter from the plan I had of its harbour; however, in standing close in for the purpose of anchoring, I was disappointed to find it was impossible to bring the vessels up without imminent risk of parting and being driven on shore, which compelled me to haul off. I then looked for the river mentioned in my instructions, whose supposed situation was to be found in 5′ N. lat., but I could find no entrance whatever in that parallel. The wind moderating on the line, I anchored the vessels on the eve of the 3rd of February, with a view of exploring the river called Dos Fuegos, and rendered into English by the late Capt. Bisset, ‘Rogues River.’ During the night the Sylph parted her cable, and was driven past this entrance, whose situation I could only geographically ascertain. The town of Juba and the bar were distinctly seen in passing from hence to Patta. The coast is fortified by a chain of islands, mostly connected by reefs. Our transactions and inquiries at the latter port were checked by the unfriendly disposition of the natives. After clearing Patta, we proceeded southward along the coast,—ascertaining it, also the two points of Formosa Bay, the Leopard’s Shoal, and the mosque near it, with Quiliffa River, the town and harbour of Mombas, the islands of Pemba (or Gedree)[132] according to the Arabs, and Zanzibar, and the site of the coast between these places.
My study has been to cultivate the friendship of all ranks, with a view of gaining information on the points government have instructed me; and the result of my labours amounts to the following, the accuracy of which, 508as far as I can judge, there is no reason to doubt. The fate of our countrymen, Park, Hornemann, and their companions, was my first and most anxious inquiry, both at Patta and this place, but I have not succeeded in meeting with any person who has the least knowledge of them, and there is every reason to suppose their fate is entirely unknown on this coast.
Five or six coss, or about one day’s journey at the back of the towns of Magadosho, Marca, and Brava, is situated a small stream called the Doho;[138] it does not join the Govinda, being lost among some hills before it reaches so far south. It appears to me to be (from the accounts of the reporter, an intelligent Soomallie) a branch of the Zeebee,[139] which he calls the Dawaha, where the Doho joins. The other, and principal branch, he says, runs through Africa, and disembogues on the coast of Adel, near Burburreea.[140]
The town of Gunnanee, on the right bank of the Govinda, is about four weeks’ journey from Brava; its inhabitants are Soomallies, and it is composed of about 300 huts. Surat cloths are taken to it from the coast, and exchanged 510for slaves, elephants’ teeth, &c. There is another considerable village called Leeween, on the left of the Govinda, some distance inland from that stream, inhabited by negroes of no professed religion. The Eesoomadoo Galla, a race of cannibals, the Oombaney, Howwahsow, and Arrooseeya Galla tribes, intermixed with Soomallies, inhabit the banks of the Dahawa, nearest the sea-coast; they do not cultivate the ground, but subsist on meat, milk, and herbs. The Guracha[141] Galla inhabit the interior south of the line, and the Borran[142] Galla north of the line; their language is nearly similar; they are represented to be cannibals and cruel thieves. The inhabitants opposite Zanzibar are Wuddooa[143] negroes, but there is reason to believe this part of the coast was formerly inhabited by the Guracha Galla, or, as my instructions style them, the Giagas.[144] The Soomallies inhabit the sea-coast from the equator north round Cape Guardafui to Burburreea and Zeylah; their possessions extend some distance inland. The Souallies, on the contrary, are confined close to the sea-coast, and inhabit that part of it from the line south to about Cape Delgado, tribes of Caffres occasionally intervening, particularly to the southward of Zanzibar. The various tribes of negroes brought to this port for sale are too numerous to describe; the principal are the Meeamaizees,[145] whose country, at three months’ distance, abounds in elephants’ teeth, and some gold is found there.
The Muckwa,[146] whose country is two months’ journey distant from the sea-coast.
The Dohai,[149] ten days from the coast, are cannibals.
The Meegeendoo[150] are situated one months’ journey from the sea-port of Quiloa.
The Jiggua,[151] four days, and the Moozumbarree,[152] three days, &c. The interior is represented as a most fertile country, abounding in cattle and elephants.
I have not been able to gather any satisfactory information regarding the River Zambesie, its course, the town of Sofala, character of its natives, or description of the surrounding country. The Christian States of Yufat and Shoa on the confines of Abyssinia, with the large towns of Tombuctoo, Cashna, and Hoossayee, said to be in the interior of Africa or Ethiopia, under the government of Mussulman princes, together with the circumstances relative to the triennial voyages of Solomon’s fleet, from the Eslantic[153] Gulf to Ophir, are unknown to the inhabitants of this place; nor have I yet met with one who could afford me any satisfactory accounts of the River Niger, or Joliba, or the Nile of Soudan, or South Africa.
I have made lists of the Souallie, Soomallie, and Galla dialects, and shall add such others as I may be able to collect.
The coast from Cape Guardafui to Magadosho is arid 512and sterile; not a hut or a boat was to be seen, although the sea-shore abounds with fish. From the latter place the land improves, and on the line it becomes completely woody, and so continues far to the southward.
The trade of this coast is chiefly in the hands of the Arabs from Muscat, Maculla, &c., and a few adventurers from Cutch and the coast of Scinde. The principal imports at Zanzibar are Surat cloths, to the amount of about 12 lacs of rupees annually, besides beads, cotton, sugar, ghee, fish, dates, and grain, and about 200 candies of iron bar, which is partly distributed for use along the coast. English woollens are in no demand, consequently not imported. The exports are slaves, elephants’ teeth, raw dammer,[154] rhinoceros’ hides and horns, cowries, wax, turtle shells, coir, cocoa-nuts, &c. The duties collected here on merchandise are said to amount to about one and a half lacs of dollars annually; but as imposition and extortion are occasionally resorted to, they may be considerably more. The Imaum of Muscat receives from hence a clear sum of 60,000 dollars, and yearly makes an additional levy on various pretexts. The following is a list of trading vessels at Zanzibar at the end of March, 1811. Two ships, two snows, three ketches, 21 dows, 15 buglas, four dingeys, 10 small boats of sizes, besides a variety of country boats constantly arriving and departing, and two large boats building. Some seasons upwards of 100 large dows, &c., have been known to arrive at this port from Arabia and India, but its trade appears on the decline, while that of the ports of Mombas and Lamoo belonging to independent Arab chiefs is annually improving, 513although as harbours they do not possess near the advantages that Zanzibar does.
The dress of the people in general is a coloured wrapper round their loins. The better sort have, in addition, a loose white cloth over their shoulders, and round their body. The Arabs wear turbans, while the Souallies, Soomallies, and negroes go bareheaded.
The port of Patta, in lat. 2° 8′ S., has little or no trade on account of the intricacy of its harbours and the nefarious conduct of its inhabitants. It would appear the Surat traders are subject to much imposition and extortion at Zanzibar, as the Hakim, over and above the usual duties of 5 per cent., seizes such part of their cargoes as he fancies; and the maquedahs[155] of the three vessels now here have declared to me that, in collecting the duties on Surat goods imported, he is not guided by any invoice prices, but fixes a valuation on them far below the prime cost from the hands of the manufacturer; and as he (the Hakim) pays himself in kind, takes good care to detain for his own use such articles as are most saleable at the time, by which means the merchant pays on an average 15 per cent., and sometimes more, beyond the established rates fixed by the Imaum of Muscat.
(Signed) Thomas Smee, Commander.
On Board the H. C.’s ship Ternate,
Zanzibar Harbour, 6th April, 1811.
514
NOTES TO APPENDIX III. BY CAPT. SMEE AND LIEUT. HARDY.
Note 1 (p. 460). Socotra, or Socotora, so well known for the production of the drug aloes, is in most charts, except Horsburgh’s, laid down too far to the westward. It bears E. by N. of Cape Guardafui 138 miles, the latter being in long 51° 13′ E., and the western extremity of Socotra in long. 53° 26′ and lat. 12° 24′ N. It has several good harbours and anchoring-places, the best of which is said to be Tivee, on the N. E. side of the Island, where water is easily procured. Between it and Cape Guardafui are situated the Isles of Sumhaa and Duraga, or, as we name them, the Brothers and Adulcasia, all of which are also placed too much to the westward in the charts. The last-mentioned island is said to afford plenty of excellent fresh water. It is inhabited by Arabs, who are subject to the chief of Socotra. Socotra is governed by an Arab Sheik. The produce of the island being insufficient to support the population, the ports of Arabia furnish it with grain, &c., &c. I believe that aloes, fish, and salt are the only articles it produces. The inhabitants are chiefly Arabs.
Note 2 (p. 466). Since the 25th we had been steering along that part of the African Continent known to the English by the name of Agan.[156] It is in general a low even coast, and 515is justly represented as desert and barren. In passing along it some natives were seen tending a few cattle on the shore, but there is reason to believe, from the apparent extreme infertility of the sand, that the number of inhabitants can be but very small;[157] even the sea-shore, where the abundance of fish would render the means of subsistence so easy to be attained, seemed totally neglected; not a hut or boat of any kind was to be seen throughout its whole extent—a strong proof of the thinness of the population, and of the country near the coast being destitute of the material requisite for constructing these necessaries. The few inhabitants probably belong to the Saumalie tribe, whose limits of residence are said to extend to the line. We did not remark any inlets or traces of rivers on this coast.
Note 3 (p. 467). A little north of Cape Bassas is a hill, or long ridge, of an uncommon red colour, and along the land from it to the Cape itself are a number of white sand hillocks which form excellent marks to vessels approaching it from the northward and eastward.
Note 4 (p. 468). From the information afterwards received the Doara seems to be an inconsiderable stream.
Note 5 (p. 470). We afterwards discovered these to be really islands, and the commencement of the chain which extends beyond Patta.
Note 6 (p. 471). The opinion upon which the existence of this supposed river rests[158] is founded on certain accounts transmitted some time ago to the Governor of Bombay by the late Captain David Seton, the Company’s resident at Muscat. 516This communication states the information to have been obtained from some people of respectability in that place, who were well acquainted with the part of the African coast in question. The substance of this detail is as follows:—‘That a river of immense extent, known to the natives in its neighbourhood by the appellation of the Neelo (Nilo), and said to have its source in common with the Egyptian river of that name, discharges itself in the Indian Ocean, in about 0° 5′ N. lat.; near to its mouth it is called Govind Khala. That the length of its course is about three months’ journey; and nine weeks’ journey from the mouth stands a large city named Gunamma,[159] up to which, the river being navigable, immense quantities of slaves, elephants’ teeth, &c., are brought down within a short distance of Brava, to which (the river then taking a more southerly direction) these articles of merchandise are afterwards carried overland, and either disposed of there, or sent to Zanzibar.’ This story, though sufficiently plausible, would of itself, considering the known credulity and extreme propensity to exaggeration prevalent among the natives of the East, be entitled to very little regard did it not happen to receive some countenance from Herodotus, the Grecian historian, who says that when in Egypt he was told that a branch of the Nile bearing the same name took an easterly course, and was supposed to fall into the Indian Ocean, somewhere on the coast of East Africa.[160] These taken together were strong, but still left ample room to believe that the river called by the Portuguese Dos Fuegos, and known to us by the name of the Rogues 517River, which disembogues itself in 0° 17′ S. lat., might eventually turn out to be the same with this African Nile,[161]—22 miles the difference between their supposed mouths, being an error which people such as those of Muscat, unaccustomed to make accurate observations, may easily be supposed to fall into. It may here be seen that the truth of this surmise respecting the identity of the two rivers has been clearly established, though it will hereafter appear, from the information received at Patta, that the source of this river, viz. Dos Fuegos, will still be found to agree with and authenticate the reports and conjectures derived from the above authority,—and at all events cannot fail to render it an object of interest and curiosity to the civilized world in general.
Note 7 (p. 474). Or rather to the island on which Patta and Sieull stand, called Peer Patta.
Note 8 (p. 474). This town is by the natives called Humoo.
Note 9 (p. 476). Amounting in value to better than Rs 300.
Note 10 (p. 479). His cousin was at this moment held in confinement in a dungeon close to the residence of this cruel and usurping relation, for it seems Ben Baneeci had a prior claim to the Sultanship.
Note 11 (p. 481). The people of Patta (besides their civil dissensions) were at this time at war with Lamo, an island a few miles to the southward, whose boats were continually on the look-out to attack those of Patta. The Sooltan made this also a motive for detaining us under the pretence of preparing an armed boat to conduct us back to the ship; but we saw through his civility, and evaded it by telling him we had arms, and could defend ourselves. Patta has no trade at present; it used formerly to be resorted to for cowries (a small shell current as money in Bengal), but of late years this trade has been discontinued.
518Note 12 (p. 484). Within this bay on the S.W. side stood the ancient city of Melinda, the site of which, in crossing the mouth of the bay, we were at too great a distance to see.
Note 13 (p. 485). These must, therefore, have been the rocks mentioned by Captain Bissel in his memoir on which the Leopard, Admiral Blankett’s flag-ship, struck (Feb. 15, 1799, on a voyage to the Red Sea), when bearing up to Zanzibar after a fruitless attempt to beat up this coast during the N.E. monsoon. The mosque, however, or pagoda, as he calls it, is by no means a good sea-mark, as no ship ought to go so close as to make it sufficiently conspicuous. A much better are two hills to the N.W.; they are considerably higher than any near them, and, in consequence, easily known. The two hills are close together, and only partially divided by a shallow notch resembling a woman’s breast in form.
Note 14 (p. 486). The River Quiliffa is in S. lat. 3° 26′, and in long. (by means of several good observations) 39° 26′ E.
Note 15 (p. 488). The Expedition sailed from Bombay on the 2nd January, 1811.
Note 16 (p. 488). There is also a group at the east end of the island.
Note 17 (p. 489). The only one of this group of islands that has no wood on it.
Note 18 (p. 491). This tree is by the natives of Hindostan called Brosh, and bears a large oval fruit with a smooth skin, but neither it nor the wood of the tree is of any use. (Editor’s note: the best is now worth £14 to £15 per ton.)
Note 19 (p. 491). Variation 8° W.
Note 20 (p. 493). Cocoa-nuts (of which the island produces vast quantities) are also exported to Malabar, and also wax and tortoise-shell.
Note 21 (p. 493). Dried salted shark and other fish, and ghee, are brought in considerable quantities from Socotra; 519likewise chinaware, earthen jars, and toys and ornaments from Surat.
Note 22 (p. 496). I do not give this as information to be depended on.
Note 23 (p. 497). The Galla are in their persons exactly similar to the west-coast negroes.
Note 24 (p. 499). The sugar-cane grows in great plenty, but the inhabitants are ignorant of the art of making sugar.
Note 25 (p. 500). Monkeys are also found on the island, with foxes and wild hogs, &c.
Note 26 (p. 500). Rice and ghee can be procured in considerable quantities, but it will be found expensive for strangers to provide any great supply of those articles.
Note 27 (p. 502). This, I think, must be an error. Five thousand is more probable,—the person who gave me the information being rather given to exaggeration.
Note 28 (p. 508). No revenue collected by the Imaum.
Note 29 (p. 508). Ibid.
Note 30 (p. 508). Camels numerous, at about 5 dollars each.
THE END.
520JOHN CHILDS AND SON, PRINTERS.
Transcriber’s Note
Place names are often spelled differently, usually by employing (or not) a hyphen. Where there is no other instance of a given variant, the other more common version is adopted; otherwise, the spelling stands here as printed.
Errors deemed most likely to be the printer’s have been corrected, and are noted here. The references are to the page and line in the original.
8.1 the tall tower of Fort Chak-[c/C]hak Replaced.
32.3 called by contemporary historians, ‘Zimbas[’]: Inserted.
62.19 [(]This appears to be Added.
86.8 and the dead[’], Added.
105.94 the Jongolia[-]ni promontory. Inserted.
142.27 turned into a verb, e.g. ‘ba-yatafaggazú[’], Inserted.
146.12 used as kilts [(]Mkifu) by the Wamasai Inserted.
168.23 from geograp[h]ical work Inserted.
183.5 wird zum Besten der Menschheit.[’] Removed.
277.4 des pièces de mâture[’] Added.
344.26 without cramp[ s/s ]or convulsions Shifted space.
356.3 or fish w[ie/ei]rs Transposed.
370.23 Eastern Intertropical Africa[.] Restored.
373.20 with a deta[t]chment to capture a gun Removed.
415.17 and hippo[po]tamus’ teeth Inserted.
450.38 at [6 ]p.m., 85°. Added.
455.17 [52/25] Temperature of air at sunrise Transposed.
469.16 taken at 8 P.M. 60° 55[″/′]. Replaced.
476.16 carrying with[ with] us a present Removed.
481.22 No fruit except the co[o]coa-nut Removed.
494.27 They are in general pur[s/c]hased Replaced.