Chapter LXVI

Of the fertility of the land in these coast valleys, and of the many fruits and roots they contain. Also concerning their excellent system of irrigating the fields.

NOW that I have given as brief an account as possible of several things connected with our subject, it will be well to return to the valleys, treating of each one separately, as I have already done of the provinces and villages of the Sierra.[342] But first I will say somewhat concerning the fruits, other food, and works of irrigation which are to be found in them.

All the land of these valleys, which is not reached by the sand, forms one of the most fertile and abundant regions in the world, and the one best suited for cultivation. I have already mentioned that it does not rain, and that the water for irrigation is drawn from the rivers which descend from the mountains and fall into the South Sea. In these valleys the Indians sow maize,[343] which is reaped twice in the year, and yields abundantly. In some parts they grow yucas,[344] which are useful for making bread and liquor when there is want of maize. They also raise sweet potatoes,[345] the taste of which is almost the same as that of chesnuts, besides potatoes, beans, and other vegetables.

Throughout all the valleys there is also one of the most singular fruits I ever saw, called pepinos, of very pleasant smell and taste.[346] There are great quantities of guayavas,[347] guavas,[348] and paltas,[349] which are like pears, guanavanas,[350] caymitos,[351] and the pines of those parts. About the houses of the Indians many dogs are seen, which are very different from the Spanish kind, and about the size of ordinary curs; they call them chonos.[352] The Indians breed many ducks. In the thickets of these valleys there are algarobas, somewhat long and narrow, and not so thick as the pods of beans.[353] In some parts they make bread of these algarobas, and it is considered good. They are very fond of drying such of their fruits and roots as are adapted for it, just as we make preserved figs, raisins, and other fruits.[354] Now there are many great vineyards in these valleys, where large harvests of grapes are gathered. No wine has yet been made from them, and I cannot, therefore, certify to its quality; but, as the land is irrigated, it will probably be weak.[355] There are now also fig-trees and pomegranates, and I believe, and hold for certain, that all the fruits of Spain may be grown here.

Wheat is raised, and it is a beautiful sight to see the fields covered with crops, in a region devoid of natural supplies of water. Barley grows as well as wheat, and lemons, limes, oranges, and citrons are all excellent and plentiful. There are also large banana plantations; and besides those which I have already enumerated, there are many other luscious fruits which I do not mention, because it seems sufficient to enumerate the principal ones.

As the rivers descend from the mountains and flow through these valleys, and as some of the valleys are broad, while their whole extent is, or was, when the country was more thickly populated, covered with flocks, they led channels of water in all directions, which is a remarkable thing, for these channels were conducted over high and low places, along the sides of hills and over them, some in one direction, some in another, so that it is a great enjoyment to travel in these valleys, and to pass through their orchards and refreshing gardens.

The Indians had, and still have, great works for drawing off the water, and making it flow through certain channels. Sometimes it has chanced that I have stopped near one of these channels, and before we had finished pitching the tent the channel was dry, the water having been drawn off in another direction, for it is in the power of the Indians to do this at their pleasure. These channels are always very green, and there is plenty of grass near them for horses.[356] In the trees and bushes many birds fly about; there are pigeons, doves, turkeys, pheasants, and some partridges, besides many deer in the thickets. But there are no evil things, such as serpents, snakes, and wolves. There are, however, many foxes, which are so cunning that, although great care is taken to watch the things where the Spaniards or Indians encamp, they come to steal, and when they can find nothing better, they make off with the bridles or switches for the horses.[357] In many parts of the valleys there are extensive fields of sweet cane, and they make sugar, treacle, and other things from it.

All these Yunca Indians are great labourers, and when they carry loads they strip to the skin, until they have nothing on save a bit of cloth between the legs, and so they run with their loads. They took great care in irrigating their land, and also in sowing, which was done by many in concert together. I will now speak of the road from the city of San Miguel to that of Truxillo.