INDEX
Reading edition
"Accomplish'd Cook (The)," Robert May's, 99
Ahasuerus (King), feast of, 12
Aigrefeuille (M. d'), as an epicure, 69, 70, 129
Aldergrove (John), on game, 354
"Almanach des Gourmands," quoted, 70;
referred to, 73, 112 et seq., 157, 184, 233, 336;
its purpose, 132;
aphorisms of, 138-139. Vide also "G. de la Reynière"
"Almanach Gourmand (L')," referred to, 225
"Almanach Gourmand (Le Double)," quoted, 258
Alsace, excellence of its cooks, 149
"Ancienne Alsace à Table (L')," 148-150
Angelica, 434
Anne (Queen), as a gourmande, 102
"Apician Morsels," a piratical volume, 336
Apicius, as a cook, 29;
referred to, 40, 41, 50, 200
Apios tuberosa, or ground-nut, 255
Appetites (great), anecdote of the Vicomte de Viel-Castel, 214;
anecdote of a Swiss guard, 218;
anecdote of a French drummer, 218;
anecdote of an English chaplain, 288
Archestratus, his lost poem on gastronomy, 13
"Art Culinaire (L')," 121, 347, 408
"Art de Diner en Ville (L')," 76
"Art de la Cuisine Française au Dix-neuvième Siècle (L')," 206
"Art du Cuisinier (L')," 71-72
Arthus (Désiré), on old tavern-signs, 68
"Art of Cookery (The)," Mrs. Glasse's, 107-111, 316
"Art of Cookery (King's)," quoted, 93, 344
"Art of Dining (The)," Thos. Walker's, 319;
Abraham Hayward's, 331 et seq.
Arts (the) and their masters, 131
Athenæus, quoted, 8, 13, 16, 18, 21-23
Attendance, importance of perfect, 321
Audubon, on game, 362, 363, 370
Autumn, glories of, 373 et seq., 398
"Avalanche" (the), of Carême, 200
Azincourt (Albouis), referred to, 130
Baba, its history and virtues, 434
Babiroussa (the), anecdote of, 212
Bakers, the art of the German, 146, 171
Baking, an ancient form of cooking, 10
Balzac, quoted, 5, 351;
referred to, 177;
as a gastronomer, 219
Banquets, early English, 90, 91
Banville (Théodore de), quoted, 227;
referred to, 341, 445
Baron Brisse, quoted, 32, 180, 344, 371, 405, 417;
as a gastronomer, 227-228;
his splendid gastronomic axiom, 228
Barras (Vicomte de), dinner of, 65
Baryé, referred to, 246
Basting, importance of, 228
Baudelaire (Charles), referred to, 445
Beauvilliers, referred to, 6, 69, 70, 199, 202, 213, 386, 435;
quoted, 71, 110, 234, 442
Béchamel, referred to, 54-55
Beecher (Rev. Henry Ward), on pies, 436
Beef, baron of, a royal dish, 92;
sirloin of, its origin, 99
Beer, quotation in praise of, 145
Beer-gardens, German, 151 et seq.
Beers, of Germany, 163-164, 168
Bellone (Dr. de la), on the truffle, 390, 395
Bénédictine, liqueur of, its history, 283-284
Béranger, poem on the restaurant, 140
Berchoux, referred to, 58, 72, 184;
his poem on gastronomy, 73 et seq., 385
Bernard (Gentil), referred to, 73
Bertinazzi (Carlin), referred to, 129
Beverages, importance of, 4;
their relation to national cookery, 151-152, 163-164
Bignon, anecdotes of, 342-343
Bishop (a) of Burgundy, anecdote of, 304
Blaze de Bury, on women, 433
Blot (Pierre), 435
Boar, the wild, 26, 39, 234, 236, 243, 246-247, 366
Boar's-head, carols on the, 91, 93
Boileau, axiom on punctuality, 269
Boiling, a primitive method of cooking, 11
"Boke of Keruynge," quoted, 85-87
"Boke of Nurture," quoted, 84-85
Bonaparte, Napoleon, as a gastronomer, 76
Bonnechose (Cardinal), his famous mot, 284
Bossuet, his "Oraison Funèbre" referred to, 232
Bramble (Mathew), referred to, 324
Bratwurst-Glöcklein, 163
Breadstuffs, the first, 7;
used by the early English, 83
Breckenridge (Vice-Pres.), anecdote of, 253-255
Brontë (Charlotte), on the curate's dinner, 288
Brouwer (Adrian), referred to, 445
Browne (Wm.), sonnet on the mushroom, 400
Bryant, "Lines to a Waterfowl," 292
Bubble and Squeak, 278
Buckland (Frank), referred to, 243
Buffon, anecdote of, 385
Bulwer, on the fox, 161
Cæsar, his prodigal feasts, 44
Café (vide also "Restaurant,") Véry, referred to, 6, 52, 213, 220, 258;
Voisin, referred to, 52;
Hardy, referred to, 52, 69, 220;
Riche, referred to, 52, 220, 250;
Véfour, referred to, 213, 258;
de Paris, referred to, 214, 219, 220, 221, 222, 258;
its great vogue in the '40's, 219;
Anglais, referred to, 220, 258;
Philippe, referred to, 258
Caligula, referred to, 43
Cambacérès, as a gastronomer, 69, 205;
referred to, 195
Camerani (M.), referred to, 129
Capon (the), as a favourite of the clergy, 306
Caraway-seed, abuse of, in Germany, 169
Carême, referred to, 13, 70, 194, 199-207, 211, 223, 229, 348-349, 350, 385, 408, 443;
eulogy of, 207
Carp (the), as a favourite of the clergy, 306, 308
Carver, Vatel's definition of a, 60
Carving, importance of, 87, 138;
a novel monastic method of, 307
"Castle of Indolence (The)," quoted, 238
Cèpes. Vide "Mushrooms"
Charles II, as an epicure, 99
Châteauroux (Duchesse de), 63
Chatillon-Plessis, gastronomical axiom of, 265
Cheese, Martin Schookius' book on, 146;
German varieties of, 167;
its proper place at dinner, 263;
its place and mission at dinner, 440
Child (Theodore), as a false dietetic mentor, 417
Civet of hare, 51
Claré, 96
Claudius, his great dining-room, 43
Clergy (the), elaborate banquets given by, 90;
table excesses of, in old Alsace, 149.
Vide also individual references
Climate vs. alimentation, 168, 270, 334
Clough (Arthur Hugh), poem on "The Dinner," 336
"Cobbe's Prophecies," quoted, 80
Cocktail, physiology of the, 196
Coffee, remote use of, 9
Colbert, referred to, 55
"Compleat Housewife (The)," Mrs. E. Smith's, 98, 106, 109
"Compleat Practical Cook (The)," Charles Carter's, 103
Compots, 157, 174, 432
Condé (Prince de), referred to, 54, 58, 60
Contades (Maréchal de), referred to, 159
Cook, Montaigne's reference to a, 51-52;
Berchoux's reference to a, 74;
importance of a good, 113;
attributes necessary for a good, 203, 207;
anecdote of a new, 259;
anecdote of a, 393
Cook-book, the ideal, defined, 442-446
Cook-books, early Italian, 49;
early Spanish, 50;
early French, 52;
early English, 81 et seq., 317;
17th-century English, 93 et seq.;
old German, 147-148, 150;
modern (vide specific references), written by the clergy, 281
Cookery, its relation to life and health, 3, 70, 71, 251, 257-258, 286, 430;
modern progress in, 4;
vs. matrimony, 6;
Italian school of, 6, 49, 51, 195;
compared to painting, 6, 203;
in Biblical times, 7, 8, 9;
of the ancient Persians, 11, 12;
of the ancient Greeks, 13 et seq.;
of the ancient Sicilians, 14;
of the ancient Romans, 24 et seq.;
period of its greatest distinction in Rome, 25;
decline of ancient, 48;
vs. literature and art, 48;
the renaissance of, 49 et seq.;
of Spain, 50, 423;
its relation to the mind, 64, 176;
vs. diplomacy, 70;
home vs. the haute-cuisine, 72, 350, 429;
cry of its decadence, 79, 258;
Parisian school of, in England, 99;
of the English rural classes, 101, 102;
modern English, 111, 269 et seq.;
importance of good writers on, 113, 199;
period of its greatest distinction in France, 116;
complementary to national beverages, 151, 153;
excellence of German, 156, 174;
Carême's and the Marquis de Cussy's opinion of old Roman, 201;
of America, 249 et seq.;
of the modern French, 259 (vide also special references);
its relation to the church, 280 et seq.;
a difficult art, 442.
Vide also "Gastronomy"
Cooking-schools, 251, 260
Cooks, jealousy of, 14, 202;
regulating the health of, 136
"Cook's Oracle (The)," 316 et seq.
Cordon-bleu, origin of the term, 62
Cucumber, remote use of, 9;
its virtues, 425
Cuisine, the ideal, defined, 258
Cuisine classique (the), 200
"Cuisinier Parisien (Le)," quoted, 203;
referred to, 206, 349
Curaçoa sec, as a digestive, 192
Curé, anecdote of a, 293
Cussy (Marquis de), referred to, 67, 127, 211, 213, 225, 305;
quoted, 120, 181, 201, 346, 383, 408
Cuyp, referred to, 6, 203, 245
Davis, Lieutenant-Colonel Newnham, 337-339
De Candolle, referred to, 256
Deffand (Mme. du), on strawberries, 144
Delavigne (Cassimir), on dinners, 112
"Délices de la Campagne (Les)," 59
Délille (l'Abbé), on gardening, 71
De Quincey on midday dining, 146
"De re Culinaria," 29, 41, 50
Désaugiers, poem on women, 119
Dessert, its mission defined, 430;
etymology of the term, 438
Dickens (Charles), on dining, 329
Dinner, hours of, 83;
a good one, a simple one, 116, 320, 322, 324;
punctuality at, 126, 269, 291, 318, 319;
a wineless, 127, 263-266, 294, 295;
inhuman hours of, 145-146, 150;
its true hygienic hour, 146, 268, 269;
Savarin's definition of a perfect, 190;
Carême's classic, at the Baron Rothschild's villa, 200;
Dumas' definition of a good, 213;
of the Vicomte de Viel-Castel, 214;
the Sunday engorgement, 266;
evils of the "theatre", 267;
a good, as defined by an eminent Baptist ecclesiast, 299;
by the Ettrick Shepherd, 309;
by Thackeray, 315;
by Kitchener, 318;
by the Earl of Dudley, 320;
French definition of a perfect, 320;
importance of variety in the bill of fare, 329;
the graceful liar as an adjunct to, 331;
Arthur Hugh Clough's poem on the, 336
Dinners, poor "company," 126, 261, 321, 329;
ministerial, 195;
similarity of, 195, 325, 328;
false etiquette of, 331
"Dinners and Diners," 337-339
Dish, the first recorded, 7
Dishes, new, 72, 353, 380;
testing of, 135;
Hungarian, 167;
abuse of certain, 261
Dom Gobelot, anecdote of, 310
Domitian, referred to, 43
Dom Pérignon, the inventor of champagne, 283
Don Quixote, referred to, 50
"Double Almanach Gourmand (Le)," referred to, 340
Douw (Gérard), referred to, 197
Drayton (Michael), quoted, 360
Dreams, viands provocative of, 197
Drinking-Cups, of the ancients, 31
Du Barry (Mme.), a supper of, 62
Dubufe, referred to, 234
Duck, wild, the art of carving a, 87;
"When Father carves the" (poem), 87;
canvasback, 249, 369;
canvasback, Rev. Joseph Barber's poem on, 292;
wild, 359, 366, 369
Dumas (Alexandre), quoted, 5, 49, 56, 206, 213, 214, 224, 225, 383;
referred to, 131, 149, 211-225, 321;
as a cook, 211;
as a gastronomer, 221;
anecdote of, as a chef, 222, 223
Dumas fils (Alexandre), referred to, 5
Dumonteil (Fulbert), his saying about truffles, 10
Eating, evils of irregular, 267
Egyptians, table appointments of, 10
Elephant, proper sauce to eat one with, 345
Ely (Rev. Joseph A.), translation of poem on the pig, 232
Emerson, his mot on pies, 437
Emetics, use of, among the ancients, 15
English, meals of the early, 82;
not appreciative of fine cooking, 210, 274
"Englishman in Paris (An)," quoted, 222
Epicure, definition of an, 128, 131
"Epicurean (The)," referred to, 353
Epicurus, his maxims, 15
Evelyn (John), on salads, 411
Exercise, virtues of, 75, 378
"Faerie Queene (The)," quoted, 235
Fairy-rings. Vide "Mushrooms"
Fayot (M.), quoted, 3, 5;
referred to, 321
"Feasts of Autolycus (The)," quoted, 343
Fête champêtre. Vide "A shooting jaunt"
Fieldfare, 361
Fig-pecker (the), 44, 192, 361
Fish, fondness of the old Latins for, 26;
days in Elizabeth's era, 90, 308;
omelettes and pâtés of, 149;
variety and superiority of American, 251;
its complementary wine, 309;
proper cookery of, 368
Flamingo (the), as a table bird, 44
Fletcher (John), quoted, 96
Flint cracker, origin of the, 263
Fouquet, referred to, 54, 55, 58
Francatelli, referred to, 6, 106, 199, 208, 226, 350
France (Anatole), his mot on the pâté de Chartres, 434
Frederick the Great, his poem to his cook, 146
Frog (the), his first leap into the frying-pan, 150
Fruit, after dinner, 267
Fruits, the first cultivated, 9;
glass-grown in England, 273;
superiority of those of western New York, 274
Frying, theory of, 179
Fuger (Bishop), anecdote of, 310 et seq.
Game, Savarin's references to, 192, 193, 197;
Anthony Hayward on its cookery, 333;
preservation and protection of, 357-358;
definition of the term, 358;
effect of food upon flavour of, 359-360, 362-363, 370;
proper wines to accompany, 372;
species, haunts, pursuit, protection, value, and cookery of, Vide chapter "The Spoils of the Cover"
Garum, of the ancients, 46
Gastaldy (Dr.), anecdote of, 120;
as an epicure, 130
Gastronomer, the ideal, defined, 442-446
Gastronomic tests, Savarin's illustration of, 190
Gastronomy, Archestratus' lost poem on, 13;
Berchoux's poem on, 73-76, 184;
as defined by M. de Borose, 81;
as defined by La Reynière, 128;
French vs. German, 145, 151, 152;
finesse of its ethics, 157-158;
one of the most important arts, 176;
as defined by the "Dictionnaire de la Conversation," 184;
as defined by Savarin, 184;
cry of its decadence, 194;
its mainspring the pig, 229 et seq.;
as promoted by the religious orders, 285 et seq., 335;
in relation to sauces, 345;
St. Ange's disquisition on, 378-381;
in relation to sport, 354, 356, 445.
Vide also "Cookery," "Dinners," and individual references
Gavarni, his mot on the mushroom, 407
Gemüthlichkeit, of the Germans, 153, 174
Gérard (Charles), referred to, 148-150
Gerarde, quoted, 256, 400, 411
Gibson (W. Hamilton), 406, 407
Glacer à la flamme, 203
Glatigny (Albert), quoted, 63, 341
Gluttony, as defined by woman, 343
Goethe, referred to, 147, 430;
poem on game, 169
Goldsmith (Oliver), quoted, 108
Gonthier (Johann), referred to, 52
Good-will, a sportsman's waste of, 381
Goose (the), merits of, in Germany, 156;
in Strassburg and Alsace, 159-161;
and applesauce, 244
"Goret (La Mort du)," poem, 232
Gouffé (Jules), referred to, 199, 225-226, 227, 229, 445
Gourmand, La Reynière's definition of a, 127-128
Gourmandise, as defined by Savarin, 186;
vs. beauty, 187;
Gérard (Charles), quoted, 199
Gout, 143, 270, 346, 444;
prevalence of, among the ancients, 46;
prevalence of in England, 96, 102;
vs. pâté de foie gras, 162
Grace before meat, 291, 297
Graces, the three spirituous, 196
"Grad' aus dem Wirthshaus," German convivial song, 173
"Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine," 211 et seq.
Greeks, meals of the ancient, 19;
gluttony of the ancient, 23
Greeley (Horace), anecdote of, 239
Grog, origin of the word, 97
Grouse, ruffed, 356, 359, 364, 366, 370, 375, 376, 411;
pinnated, or prairie-chicken, 363, 365
Hafiz, quoted, 423
Hagenmark, 432
Hamerton, referred to, 243
"Hare, first catch your," origin of the term, 110
Harvest-home, poem on the celebration of, 101
Hasenbraten and Hasenpfeffer, 168
Hayward (Abraham), referred to, 331 et seq.
Hayward (Anthony), on a chaplain's appetite, 288
Heidelberg, a dinner at the Wolfsbrunnen, 152
Heliogabalus, gluttony of his reign, 46-48;
inventor of vol-au-vent à la financière, 48
Henry VIII, his fondness for sweets, 430
Herodotus, quoted, 10
Herrick, quoted, 79, 102
Herring, the "marinirte," 167
Hertford (Lord), anecdote of, 333
Hervilly (Ernest d'), referred to, 233
Hippocras, 57, 93, 94, 96
Hirztag, a strange custom of that festival, 150
Hollar, quoted, 358
Homer, quoted, 20
Hone (Wm.), poem on mince-pie, 435
Hood (Thomas), referred to, 316
Horace, quoted, 11, 26, 39, 40, 113, 398;
referred to, 38, 39;
his fondness for sweets, 428-429
Host, a delicate, as defined by La Reynière, 139;
vs. guest, Baron Brisse's aphorism on, 228;
his duty to his guests, 264-265, 330-331
Housewife, troubles of the, 260
Hugo (Victor), referred to, 341
Hunt (Leigh), on pig-driving, 239
Ice-cream, discoverer of, 434
Indian summer, poem on, 373
Indigestion, La Reynière on the causes of, 133
Ingoldsby (Thomas), referred to, 289;
quoted, 280, 291, 306, 438
Jacque (Charles), referred to, 233, 245
Janin (Jules), referred to, 5, 211, 213, 348, 445
Jefferies (Richard), on feasting the chapel-pastor, 287
Johnson (Dr.), quoted, 111, 248
Jordaens, referred to, 6
Jury dégustateur (the), 120 et seq.
Juvenal, referred to, 34, 37, 40;
quoted, 37, 42
"Kalendare de Potages dyuers," 88, 90
Kempis (Thomas à), his fondness for salmon, 309
King (Wm.), poem on cookery, 279
Kitchener (Dr. Wm.), referred to, 106
Kuchen, merits of the German, 169, 174
"Kuchenmeisterey," 171
La Bruyère, quoted, 229, 380
Lacroix (Octave), his tribute to Dumas, 211
La Fontaine, referred to, 116
Laguipière, referred to, 6, 201, 202
Lamb (Charles), referred to, 17, 239, 240-242, 430;
his apology to the pig, 240
Lampridius, quoted, 47
Larding (art of), its discoverer, 281
La Reynière (Grimod de), referred to, 66, 72, 112 et seq., 178, 196, 213, 225, 317, 336, 361, 443;
poem of, 117;
quoted, 118, 233, 236, 287, 345, 348, 383, 411;
his home kitchen, 131, 132;
as a gastronomer, 132;
denounced by Savarin, 158;
his tribute to Savarin, 177.
Vide also "l'Almanach des Gourmands"
La Rochefoucauld, quoted, 5
Leckerbissen and Frauenessen, 172
Lennox (Lady), anecdote of, 335
Liar, charm of the accomplished, 331
Liqueurs (celebrated), of monastic invention, 283-285
"Livre de Cuisine (Le)," 225
Locust (the), as an article of diet, 7
Louis XIII, as a gastronomer, 53;
XIV, as a gastronomer, 64 et seq.;
XV, as a gastronomer, 61;
XVIII, as a gastronomer, 76, 78
Lucullus, as an epicure, 41-43;
referred to, 45, 200, 201
Luncheon, an ideal woodland, 375 et seq.
Lyne (Bishop de), referred to, 149
Macaroni, Dr. Gastaldy on, 120
Macaroni, Rossini's lost recipe for, 220
Madeleine (the), Dumas' story of, 169
Mæcenas, referred to, 38, 39
Magee (Bishop), anecdote of, 394
Mahony (Rev. Francis), poem on pâté de foie gras, 161;
his "Watergrasshill Carousal," 309
Maintenon (Mme. de), referred to, 67, 63, 340
Maître d'hôtel, duties and importance of the, 136-138, 204
"Maître d'Hôtel Français (Le)," 206
"Manuel des Amphitryons," quoted, 69;
referred to, 93-95
Markham (Gervaise), referred to, 93-95;
quoted, 409
Marriage, Balzac's definition of, 351
Martial, quoted, 24, 31, 33, 44;
referred to, 37, 38, 40
Marvell (Andrew), referred to, 81, 252
Mauri (Cardinal), his fondness for "Est, Est, Est," 311
Mead, its composition, 97
Medici (Catherine de), 52, 433
Melons, 9, 273, 298
"Memoirs of a Stomach," quoted, 271
"Memorials of Gormandizing," 329
Metheglin, 96, 98, 439
Metzelsuppe, Uhland's poem on, 166
Mézeray (Mlle.), referred to, 117-119, 125, 126
Mind vs. stomach, 5
Mistletoe-thrush, 361
"Modern Cook (The)," 208
Mohrenkeller, of Nürnberg, 163
Molière, referred to, 57, 58, 113
Monselet (Charles), quoted, 175, 194, 206, 264;
referred to, 211, 225, 232, 340
Montaigne, quoted, 6, 51, 200, 376, 414;
referred to, 147, 283
Montauron (Seigneur de), 54
Montausier (Duc de), 54, 55
Montespan (Mme. de), 58, 63
Montgomery (James), poem on the daisy, 424
Morellet (l'Abbé), anecdote of, 304
Morgan (Lady), referred to, 62;
quoted, 200
Mouchy (Maréchal de), anecdote of, 64
Moynier (M. M.), referred to, 394, 396
Müller (Wilhelm), poem of, quoted, 311
Mullet, a much-valued fish, 32, 47;
origin of the name, 33
Murger (Henri), referred to, 341
Mushrooms, 362;
species, qualities, history, haunts, literature, and cookery of, 397-408
Musset (Alfred de), quoted, 219
Mutton, Pré-Salé and Southdown, 359, 380
Napoleon I, as a gastronomer, 61
Nasidienus, the feast of, 39, 40
Nero, his Domus aurea, 43
Ninon de l'Enclos, referred to, 175, 178, 200
North, (Christopher), 309, 316
"Nouvel Almanach des Gourmands," quoted, 220
Nudels, 167
Oaks, list of truffle-producing, 391
Oil and vinegar, 415-416
"Old Cookery Books," quoted, 275
Olive-oil, remote use of, 8
Olla podrida, 50;
en grande, 50
Omelette (the curé's), anecdote of, 299-302
Onderdonk (Bishop), anecdote of, 295
Onion, an ancient vegetable, 9;
tribe, virtues of the, 100, 107, 231, 387
"Original (The)," 319 et seq.
Orsay (Comte d'), on French cookery, 258
Ortolans, 76, 361
Ostade, referred to, 74, 445
Oudry, referred to, 234
Ovens, Carême's remarks on, 202
Oyster-beds, first artificial, 27
Oysters, ancient modes of cooking, 89;
superiority of American, 252
Pain perdu, 89
Painting, Italian school of, 6, 48, 245;
Dutch and Flemish schools of, 6, 246, 445;
French school of, 246
"Panthropeon, or History of Food (The)," 17, 209
Papabotte (the), 362-363
Parkinson (John), 81, 411
Parsley, virtues of, 106, 231
Pastry, La Reynière's definitions of, 138;
Carême's definition of, 202
Pâte de foie gras, 7, 130, 156, 158, 161, 162, 189, 235, 236, 397;
La Reynière's account of a, 123;
its history, 159;
d'écrevisses, 203;
de Chartres, 434
"Pâtissier français (Le)," 59
Pennell (Elizabeth Robins), quoted, 107, 342
Pensey (Henrion de), his famous gastronomic axiom, 252
Pepper, superiority of adulterated, 417
Pepys (Diary of), quoted, 99-101
Perdrix à l'espagnol, 50
Perfumes, use of, at feasts, 13, 28
Petit-Radel (M.), anecdote of, 77
"Petite Cuisine (La)," 227
Petrarch, on wine, 293
Petronius Arbiter, referred to, 35, 37
Pheasant (the), 289, 359
Philippe d'Orléans, as a gastronomer, 61
"Philosopher's Banquet (The)," quoted, 106
Physicians, as gastronomers, 78, 267
"Physiologie du Goût (La)." referred to and quoted, 175 et seq., 206, 351, 395.
Vide also "Savarin"
Pie (pumpkin), its origin, 273;
a game, 372
Pies, 249, 430 et seq.;
wild boar, 89;
strange early English, 95
Pig (the), his popularity as a signboard, 67;
of Westphalia and Rothenburg, 164;
as a factor of gastronomy, 229 et seq.;
"Dissertation sur le Cochon," 231;
"Gli Elogi del Porco," 231;
M. Pouvoisin's eulogy of, 232;
Rev. Joseph A. Ely's eulogy of, 232;
Monselet's eulogy of, 232;
Southey's eulogy of, 232;
La Reynière's eulogies of, 233, 236;
Ernest d'Hervilly's sonnet to, 233;
Spenser's and Thomson's unjust strictures on, 235, 238;
the Southern razorback, 235, 306;
fondness for truffles, 236, 389;
Leigh Hunt's essay on, 239;
Charles Lamb's apology to the elder animal, 240;
as a retriever of game, 244;
a German eulogy of, 244;
his influence upon the polite arts, 245-246;
"Rôti-Cochon," 261, 414
"Pig-Driving, On the Graces and Anxieties of," 239
Planked shad, origin of, 253 et seq.
Pliny, quoted, 31;
referred to, 40, 384, 395
Plover, upland or grass, 361 et seq.
Plum-porridge, 435
Plum-pudding, and history of, 334, 434-435
Pompadour (Marquise de), 63
Pope, quoted, 83, 103
Pork, the favourite dish of the ancients, 17;
origin of, 230
Pork-pie, 89
Porridge, use of, by the ancients, 24
Potato, history of the, 255-256, 306
Potatoes, in England, 272, 330
Pot-au-feu, importance of the, 224
Propertius, quoted, 38
Prout (Father). Vide Rev. Francis Mahony "Psalm, a penitential," 286
Puff-balls. Vide "Mushrooms"
Punch, origin of the word, 97
Punctuality. Vide "Dinner, punctuality at"
Pumpkin, an ancient vegetable, 9
Quail, 363, 365, 366, 375, 382
Recipes
A Blue-violet Salad ("The Story of My House"), 426
"A Bride's Pie" (Mrs. Glasse), 110
A good brown gravy (Mrs. Glasse), 109
A liver-pudding boiled (Mrs. Glasse), 109
Bakewell pudding, 276
Bouillon, Dumas' mode of preparing, 224
Brook trout (Savarin), 179;
(Baron Brisse's formulas), 180
Cabbage, Apicius' recipes for, 29
Cèpes (Vuillemot's recipe for), 405
Chicken, Artimidor's recipe for, 18
Cock ale, Markham's formula for, 98
"Dish of Roses" (the). Laurentius' recipe for, 18
Flounder-souchy (Kitchener), 327
Gigot de mouton à la Richelieu (St. Ange), 380
Guisado, the Spanish, 51
How to collar a pig (Mrs. Smith), 109
How to roast a pig (Mrs. Glasse), 110
Kalter Aufschnitt, 169
Mutton Cutlets (Mrs. Walter Ellis), 276
Partridge aux choux (Baron Brisse), 371
Pheasant à la Sainte-Alliance (Savarin), 193
Potage aux choux (Dumas), 224
Quail à la financière (Gouffé), 226
Roast goose à l'allemande, 157
Sack-posset (Sir Fleetwood Fletcher), 439
Sauce for venison, mutton, and game (Francatelli), 208;
for green geese and ducklings, 278;
à la Schönberg (Her Gracious Serenity), 352
Spare-rib (Charles Lamb's new formula), 242
"The Curé's Omelette" (Savarin), 302
The hunter's sandwich, 441
Ranhofer (Charles), referred to, 353
Récamier (Mme.), referred to, 300
Reed-birds, 359, 361
Rembrandt, referred to, 6
Restaurants, first Parisian, 64, 66;
excessive charges of Parisian, 140, 220, 342;
Bignon, referred to, 219;
American, 250;
advantage of dining at, 339;
Glatigny's sonnet on, 341;
Bignon's, 341-343;
Trois Frères Provençeaux, referred to, 258;
a dinner at, in 1860, 297;
English, 270, 275, 338.
Vide also "Cafés," and specific references
Retz (Cardinal de), referred to, 171
Réveillé-Parise (Dr.), referred to, 339
Richelieu (Cardinal de), 54, 302, 380;
(Maréchal, Duc de), 303, 348
Riquette, referred to, 202
Ristori (Mme.), referred to, 220
Roasting, as defined by the Marquis de Cussy, 120
Robert, referred to, 6, 69, 194, 201, 202
Rocher de Cancale (restaurant of), 52, 115, 117, 118, 187, 221;
a celebrated menu of, 140-142
Rohan (Cardinal), referred to, 150
Romans, luxury of the ancient, 25 et seq.;
meals of the ancient, 27
Ronsard, referred to, 52;
quoted, 79
Roques (Joseph), 408
"Royal Cookery" (Patrick Lamb's), 102
Rubens, referred to, 6, 245
Ruffs and reeves, 335
Ruysdael, referred to, 6
Sack-posset, 96
St. Ange, gastronomic homily of, 378-382
Ste. Beuve, quoted, 381
Saint-Simon, quoted, 55
Salad, 362;
virtues of, as defined by Savarin, 301, 411;
virtues of, as defined by La Reynière, 411;
its mission and place at the dinner, 418
Salads, remote use of, 10
Salmis. La Reynière's lost monastic recipe for, 286
Sandpiper (Bartramian). Vide "Plover" and "Papabotte"
Sanzai (Archbishop), anecdote of, 304
Sardanapalus, as a gastronomer, 12
Sauce, a good, as defined by Baron Brisse, 334;
a good, as defined by La Reynière, 345;
anchovy, 345;
(a good), its qualification, 349
Sauce tartare, a novel, 256
Sauces old English, 84;
best for brook trout, 191;
(Francatelli's), for mutton and game, 209, 368;
(English), 277;
merits of, 249, 345;
Harvey's, origin and anecdote of, 277;
bread, 289, 368;
their relation to gastronomy, 345;
Marquis de Cussy on, 346;
mayonnaise, its history and etymology, 348-349, 421;
à la Schönberg, 352;
a list of, for the home cuisine, 352;
apple, 368;
à la Richelieu, 381
Saucier (the), 346
Sauerkraut, 371;
when invented, 150;
(French), not to be commended, 223
Sausages, the German the master-maker of, 152, 423;
German species and varieties of, 163-166
Savarin, referred to, 75, 113, 114, 225, 305, 351, 370, 434, 443;
denounced by M. de Courchamps, 158;
as a gastronomer, 181, 206;
his discourtesy to La Reynière, 195;
poem of, 197;
quoted, 300-302, 383, 395, 411.
Vide also "Physiologie du Goût (La)"
Scott (Sir Walter), referred to, 309
Seasonings, used by the ancients, 28-30;
used by the English, 83, 108;
importance of, 446
Seneca, quoted, 5, 31, 32, 41, 46;
referred to, 40, 44
Sévigné (Marquis de), referred to, 175, 200
Shakespeare, quoted, 246, 441
Shelley, referred to, 234
Shooting jaunt, a, 375 et seq.
Shuttleworth (Canon), his famous "grace," 291
Signboards (old), and their mottoes, 67
Smell (the), its influence on the taste, 182
Smith (Rev. Sydney), his mot on pâté de foie gras, 158;
gastronomic anecdote of, 249;
his mot on the pheasant, 286;
his poem on roast mutton, 290;
on fanatics, 294;
his poem on salad, 412
Sneyders, referred to, 6, 234, 445
Snipe, 356, 359, 365, 366, 411
Société des Mereredis, 118, 129, 130
Solomon, his table, 11
Sora, or rail (the), 360
Soubise (Prince de), anecdote of his chef, 37
Soup, bisque d'écrevisses, 150;
aux choux, 224;
croûte-au-pot, 224, 275;
Julienne, 281;
first mention of, 281
"Soupers de la Cour (Les)," 62
Soups, German, 167
Southey, referred to, 232
Soyer, referred to, 17, 106, 199, 209-210
Spartan black broth, 13
Spätzle, 167
Speaking-tube, invented by La Reynière, 126
Speisekarte, a typical, 154
Spenser, quoted, 235;
referred to, 238
Sport. Vide chapter "The Spoils of the Cover"
Stimulants, before dinner, 196
Stomach (the), its joys and sorrows, 5;
its offices, 267, 317, 319
Strawberries vs. gout, 143, 432
—— —— —— (Rev. Dr.), anecdote of, 296-299
Sweetmeats, 379
Sweet potato, 256
Sydney (Sir Robert), anecdote of, 89
Tables volantes, 62
Talleyrand (Prince de), as a gastronomer, 69, 202
Talon (Joseph), discoverer of truffle culture, 388
Taste (the), Savarin's analysis of, 181-184;
influence of smell on, 182
Teniers, referred to, 6, 445
Tennyson, referred to, 316
Thackeray, referred to, 159, 195, 387;
as a gastronomer, 315, 329;
quoted, 327, 340
Thomson, quoted, 238
Thoreau, on the mushroom, 402, 403
Tiberius, death from poisoned mushrooms, 43;
as an epicure, 44;
his fondness for cucumbers, 425
Timon (Bishop), of Buffalo, anecdote of, 293
Toast, a celebrated French, to femininity, 283
Toasts, form of, among the ancients, 27
Tobacco, introduction of, 28
Total abstainer, anecdote of a, 265;
abstinence, poem on, 295
Total abstainers vs. guests, 263-266;
brandied peaches, 433
Trimalchio, dinner of, 35
Trout, brook, best sauce for, 181;
of the English chalk-streams, 364;
American vs. the European, 365
"Truffe (De la)," 394
"Truffe (La)," 390
Truffles, 143, 159, 210, 235, 434;
species, qualities, history, cultivation, cookery, literature, and phenomena of. Vide chapter "Two Esculents par excellence"
Turbot (the), 33
Turkey, a truffled, 122, 304, 385;
history of the, 304, 305;
wild, 369-370;
wild vs. the domestic, 369, 370
Turtle feasts, American, 267
Ude, referred to, 6, 106, 190, 207
Uhland, referred to, 163, 166
Ulric (St.), festival of, 308
Urbain-Dubois, referred to, 199, 226
Van Mieris, referred to, 197
Vatel, referred to, 6, 54, 58, 130;
on carving, 59
Vegetables, used by the ancients, 9, 10, 28, 29;
poor cookery of, in Great Britain, 272;
importance of good, 330
Verneuil (G. de), referred to, 130
Véron (Dr.), anecdote of, 221;
on the restaurant, 339
Verres, referred to, 43
Viel-Castel (Vicomte de), anecdote of, 214
Vienna roll (the), origin of, 171
Vincent La Chapelle, 61
Vineyards (celebrated), first founded by the ecclesiasts, 282
Virgil, referred to, 234
Vitellius, referred to, 43, 44
Vol-au-vent à la financière, 203;
inventor of, 48
Vopallière (Marquis de), referred to, 71
Vuillemot, referred to, 212, 213
Walker (Thos.), 106, 195, 319 et seq.;
as a gastronomer, 326
Walton (Isaac), referred to, 81
Ward (Artemus), his mot on hasty pudding, 134;
his mot on pies, 437
Weenix, referred to, 234, 445
Wheat, original home of, 9
Wheatears, 335, 361
White (Gilbert), referred to, 243, 272;
quoted, 360
Whitebait, as eulogized by Thackeray, 328, 387
Whitefish (the), 45
Wines, of the ancients, 13, 17, 30, 40;
of the ancient Romans, 30;
in use in England, 96-98;
difficulty of testing, 135;
German, 168;
of old Alsace, 159;
brut champagne, 262, 431;
importance of good, 262, 264, 265;
champagne, 262, 270, 323, 337, 438;
champagne, its virtues, 283, 379;
their relation to the clergy, 282, 291, 293, 295, 309 et seq.;
"Est, Est, Est," history of, 310 et seq.;
importance of a sufficient variety, 322-323;
their relation to game, 356, 372;
to truffles and mushrooms, 394, 408;
Château Yquem, crême, of 1861 and 1864, 427;
as a medium of hygiene, 444
Woman, jealousy of, 14;
imitating man's excesses, 46;
Talleyrand's precept regarding, 79;
compared to peaches, 119;
as gastronomers, 125, 343, 351;
La Reynière's distinction of, as guests, 139;
created for the selfish wishes of man, 174;
her fondness for sweetmeats, 174, 429, 430, 433;
Savarin's references to, 192;
as an addition to a shooting-party, 192-193, 378;
a French toast to, 283;
as an adjunct to the dinner, 320;
disadvantages of dining with, 338, 340;
in the eighteenth century, 347;
how she may hypnotise the sterner sex, 350, 429;
a toast in sparkling St. Péray to her, 351;
Balzac's reference to, 351;
the wise one defined, 351;
vs. champagne, 379, 429;
compared to mushrooms, 398;
pretty one should mix a salad, 420;
her relation to cookery, 429;
a foil for man's mistakes, 431;
as a garnish to an omelette, 432;
her pet tipples in colonial times, 438, 439
Woodcock, 355, 359, 365, 366, 376
Wordsworth, referred to, 240
Yellowshank (the), 361
Yuan Mei, quoted, 6