THE KITCHEN GARDEN AND THE COOK.

In preparing vegetables care should be given to cleanse them by washing them in cold salted water, but they should not be made sodden by long immersion. Fresh vegetables should be cooked the day of gathering, and one cannot be too careful about all tinned vegetables, especially tomatoes, mushrooms, and lentils. All green vegetables should be removed from the water as soon as cooked, and well drained. To avoid any offensive smell caused by cabbage or other greens, put a piece of bread or toast with them while cooking; this will absorb the odour. All vegetables should be served very hot.

GLOBE ARTICHOKE (Cynara scolymus. Compositæ).

This is a perennial plant, but is apt to deteriorate under cultivation; therefore, if possible, a third of the plantation should be renewed yearly. It does not always stand our cold and damp winters, though it may be considered hardy in the south of England.

The Globe Artichoke does not always come true to seed, so that it is better to renew or start a plantation by means of rooted suckers, which the plant freely throws off. If seed be selected it should be sown in a mild hotbed in March and planted in its permanent bed in May.

A light, rich loam is preferred, heavy soils holding too much damp for this somewhat delicate plant, which requires perfect drainage yet plenty of water during the growing season. A sunny position should be chosen for the bed, the ground should be trenched and well manured, and the plants be put out in April about three feet apart according to the variety.

Keep the soil stirred with the hoe, and give plenty of water during drought, with occasional doses of weak liquid manure. In giving manure water to this, as to all other subjects, it should be extremely dilute, and should be applied during showery weather, or, if in dry weather, should be preceded and followed by copious watering with plain water.

In the autumn the plants must be trimmed up, and winter protection given in the shape of straw or fern covering.

The crop comes in over a longish period, beginning in late June with the older plants and going on into the Autumn with the plants put out in the spring. The flowering heads should be gathered when they are about three-parts grown, and well before they open.

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE (Helianthus tuberosus. Compositæ).

This perennial sunflower gives, perhaps, the heaviest yield per square yard of any garden crop. It is of the easiest culture, and may be grown in the same plot of ground year after year, an advantage in its case, as once in the ground it is very difficult to get rid of it. The ground should be prepared in late winter by trenching in a moderate quantity of manure. The tubers may be planted any open day in February or March in rows three feet apart, the sets eighteen inches in the rows. The rest of the culture simply consists in hoeing up weeds; the crop may be left in the ground and dug as required from September onwards, but it should be all cleared up before the tubers start to grow in March.

CHINESE ARTICHOKE (Stachys tuberifera).

These require exactly similar treatment to Jerusalem Artichokes, except that the plants need be only a foot to fifteen inches apart. They withstand frost well, and may stay in the ground and be dug as wanted.

DISHES.

Boiled Artichoke (Jerusalem).—Wash well, as many artichokes as will be required, then put them in plenty of fresh clean water to cover and peel them rapidly, keeping them under water during the process, and then plunging them in a bowl of cold water till all are finished.

This is very important, as artichokes turn black if exposed to the air without their skins, even after they are cooked. Every one knows the disgusting appearance a dish of black artichokes floating in their milk and water presents. This can be avoided by carefully following these directions.

Put them in a saucepan of cold water, sufficient to cover them well, add one tablespoonful of salt, allow twenty minutes to half an hour after they reach boiling point. Drain, and arrange on a drainer in a very hot vegetable dish, pour over a good white sauce (see White Sauce) immediately, being careful to mask each artichoke with the sauce, thus protecting it from the air. If properly cooked the sauce will cling to the vegetable and not drop to the bottom of the dish. If the artichokes have to wait, draw the saucepan to one side and keep them in the water till wanted.

Purée of Jerusalem Artichokes.—Melt a heaped tablespoonful of butter, add a sliced onion, one bay leaf, three pounds of Jerusalem artichokes washed, pared, and cut into slices. Cook slowly for ten minutes, add gradually one cupful of milk. When the vegetables are thoroughly cooked, add another cupful of milk, salt and pepper to season. Serve on toast or boil until tender in milk to cover, drain and press through a colander, and reheat, seasoning with salt and pepper.

Baked Artichokes.—Peel and trim one dozen artichokes, and season with salt and pepper. Put into a buttered baking dish and bake for half an hour. Baste frequently with butter, and serve in the same dish.

Another Method.—Wash and pare the artichokes, put into cold water, with one tablespoonful of salt, boil till tender, cut into slices and put into a baking dish. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese. Cover with white or cream sauce, sprinkle with crumbs, dot with butter, and bake until the crumbs are brown.

Braised Artichokes.—Peel, wash, and parboil the artichokes. Drain and put into a baking dish with enough water to moisten, add a small bunch of parsley, a few slices of carrot, and a small onion. Cover and bake slowly for an hour, add a little more liquid if required, remove the carrot, onion, and parsley, and serve in a vegetable dish with the strained liquid thickened, seasoned, and poured over.

Mashed Artichokes.—Wash and peel fifteen artichokes, cover with cold, salted water, bring to the boil, and cook until tender, drain, rub through a sieve, season with salt and pepper, add a piece of butter, and serve very hot. Brown sauce may be added if liked.

Brown Sauce.—Two onions, one tablespoonful of flour, three-quarters of a pint of salted water; seasoning, one ounce of butter or a tablespoonful of oil; chop the onion, fry brown in the butter, add the flour, which must be browned, pour in the water and stir until the mixture thickens, then season it to taste. Any kind of vegetable stock is preferable to water.

Another Method.—One onion, half a carrot, half a turnip, parsley, herbs, one bay leaf, one ounce of butter, one pint of water, one dessertspoonful of vinegar, one lump of sugar, spice, one tablespoonful of ketchup or other condiment sauce. Fry the chopped vegetables in the butter until they are a good brown, add the flour, stir well, and add the water and stir until the mixture boils, then put in the parsley, herbs, vinegar, sugar, spice, and seasoning to taste, simmer by the side of the fire for about one hour, strain, and add the ketchup.

Jerusalem Artichokes with Brown Sauce.—Peel the artichokes, cut into dice, cook them till tender in salted water. Drain and reheat in brown sauce.

Artichokes à la Crême.—Prepare according to directions given for above recipe. Sprinkle with crumbs and grated cheese. Dot with butter, and brown in the oven, using the dish in which it is to be served.

Jerusalem Artichoke Balls.—Take eight boiled artichokes, rub through a sieve, and put into a saucepan with a little milk, one ounce butter, and one ounce Parmesan cheese. Stir over the fire until smooth, then add pepper and salt to taste, and the yolks of two eggs. Mix well and let it cool. Make balls of equal size, brush over with the white of egg, dip in bread-crumbs, and fry in hot nuttage or butter. Serve in pyramids with fried parsley scattered over.

Jerusalem Artichokes with Hollandaise Sauce.—Take twelve artichokes, trim them to the shape of pears, boil in water till tender, then drain well, and arrange them in the shape of a pyramid, pour over them some sauce Hollandaise, and serve.

Jerusalem Artichokes with White Sauce and Parmesan Cheese.—They must have been previously cooked and cut up in small pieces.

Fried Chinese Artichokes.—Boil the artichokes until tender, drain them, egg and bread-crumb them, fry until crisp, and serve with parsley sauce and slices of lemons.

Artichokes à la Provençale.—Clean and cut two dozen Jerusalem artichokes in pieces about half an inch in length. Wash and put them into a stewpan with half an ounce of fresh butter and half an ounce of white castor sugar. Put them on a slow fire for a few minutes, add four tablespoonfuls of white sauce, eight tablespoonfuls of milk, and simmer until the artichokes are soft, then skim. Mix the yolk of an egg with two tablespoonfuls of milk, pour it into the stewpan and stir quickly, and serve hot. Jerusalem artichokes must be well cooked, but not reduced to a pulp.

Artichoke Purée.—Wash well and peel twelve artichokes, boil them in three pints of water and one tablespoonful of salt; when soft take them up, probably in twenty minutes. Meanwhile cook slowly in a stewpan one sliced onion, a little celery, one turnip, two ounces of butter, one bay leaf, and a little grated nutmeg. Stir and add one tablespoonful of flour and one pint or less of milk to form a proper thickness. Put in the artichokes. When boiled pass through a fine hair sieve and serve hot. Put two tablespoonfuls of cream or two yolks of eggs in the tureen and stir while adding the purée.

Boiled Globe Artichokes.—Cut off the tips of the leaves and round off the bottoms. Remove the stalks and trim away the outer leaves. Soak for half an hour in salt water, washing thoroughly. Boil until tender in a large quantity of salted water, put into a serving dish, dot with butter, and heat till the butter is melted, and serve. Hollandaise sauce can be served with them.

Boiled Italian Artichokes.—Cut off the stems and boil till tender in salted water. Cut in half from top to bottom and serve to each person. Pass with them Hollandaise sauce. The scales must be stripped off and the soft end dipped into the sauce and eaten. The fuzzy part should be scraped off and the bottom eaten with a fork.

Artichokes à la Babette.—Put green artichokes into water and remove the choke. Trim the leaves neatly, parboil five minutes in salt water, and drain. Put into a buttered casserole, season with salt and pepper, and add a little butter. Cover and cook in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. This can be served with Hollandaise sauce.

Fried Artichokes.—Cut off the leaves and trim away the choke part. Chill on ice. Make a batter of half a cupful of flour, a pinch of salt, and baking powder, mix with a cupful of milk and a beaten egg. Cut each artichoke into pieces, season with salt and pepper, dip in the batter, and fry in deep fat, drain, and serve with any kind of sauce.

Stuffed Artichokes.—Clean and trim the artichokes, boil in salted water until tender, drain, scoop out the soft part with a spoon, season with a cupful of chopped nuts, salt, pepper, melted butter, and lemon juice. Put the artichokes into a buttered baking dish, fill with nuts, tie into shape with string, add two cupfuls of stewed and drained tomatoes, a sliced onion, a pinch of salt, and a tablespoonful of butter. Bake slowly for an hour, basting frequently with the liquid. Take off the strings and strain the sauce, and serve.

Stuffed Fonds of Artichokes.—Cook eight artichoke bottoms in boiling water, drain, season with salt and pepper, fill with nuts, sprinkle with crumbs, dot with butter, and bake for ten minutes, basting with butter, and serve in the same dish.

Artichokes à la Crême.—Trim the artichokes and soak for half an hour in cold water and a little vinegar water to cover, rinse in fresh water and cook in salted water until tender. Drain and reheat in a cream sauce. An egg beaten and the juice of a lemon or a few drops of vinegar may be added.

Artichokes à la Mode.—Prepare and trim four or more artichokes, put into a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter, the juice of a lemon, a pinch each of salt and pepper. Simmer until tender, drain, and brown in the oven. Put into the pan in which they were cooked two tablespoonfuls of butter, one heaped tablespoonful of flour, stir well, add half a cupful of milk, and half a cupful of water. Let it boil four minutes, stirring continually. Add one wineglassful of white wine, and serve in a sauce-boat.

Artichokes à l’Italien.—Wash, quarter, and trim the artichokes, and boil in salt water until tender. Drain, remove and discard the chokes, arrange the artichokes on a dish with the leaves outwards, pour over a white sauce flavoured with mushrooms, and garnish with watercress.

Artichokes à la Lyonnaise.—Prepare and clean the artichokes, boil till tender in salt water, drain, wipe dry, fry in equal parts of butter and oil, when brown add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir well, then half a cupful of water, and boil for three minutes, season with salt, pepper, minced parsley, and lemon juice, and serve.

Second Method.—Pull off the leaves and cut the artichokes into quarters, parboil in salt water for five minutes, drain and arrange in a thickly buttered baking dish, sprinkle with sugar, salt, and white pepper, add one wineglassful of white wine and one tablespoonful of water. Simmer slowly for three-quarters of an hour. Add one tablespoonful of butter and a little lemon juice poured over the artichokes before serving.

Artichokes à la Pompadour.—Cover eight artichoke bottoms with cream sauce, lay on each one a large floweret of boiled cauliflower previously boiled for a quarter of an hour, cover with more of the sauce, sprinkle with crumbs and grated cheese, dot with butter. Bake brown in a buttered pan, basting with the sauce as needed.

Artichokes à la Provence.—Peel the artichokes and boil in salt water until tender. Drain and serve with a cupful of brown butter sauce to which has been added the yolks of two eggs well beaten, with a teaspoonful of lemon juice. The sauce must not be allowed to boil after the eggs are added.

Artichokes à la Tartare.—Cut the artichoke stalks close, cut the sharp points from the leaves, removing not more than half an inch from each. Wash in cold water to which a little vinegar has been added. Drain and cook gently in salt water, drain upside down until dry, fill the hollow left by the choke with Tartare sauce or with a sauce made as follows:—Beat together half a cupful of melted butter, one tablespoonful each of lemon juice and olive oil, a little salt, finely chopped parsley, French mustard, and grated onion to season. Bring to the boil, take from the fire and pour it very slowly upon one beaten egg, stirring all the time. Pour over the artichokes and serve.

(French mustard is mustard mixed with vinegar instead of water.)

Purée of Artichokes.—Clean some artichoke bottoms and cook in salted water. Drain, rinse, and cut into small pieces. Reheat in a saucepan with an equal quantity of Béchamel sauce, and cook until slightly reduced. Rub through a fine sieve, season, add butter and cream, and serve.

Another Method.—Put two tablespoonfuls of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour in a saucepan and stir for five minutes. Pour one and a half pints of boiling milk in gradually, beat well with a wooden spoon and flavour with herbs, a quarter of a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, twelve peppercorns, a pinch of salt, and three ounces of chopped mushrooms. Cook for a quarter of an hour and rub through a fine sieve.

Italian Dishes.—Clean and cut the under leaves of three large globe artichokes. Boil them sufficiently to be able to pick out the chokes and put them in cold water for five minutes. Drain thoroughly, then fill the hole in the artichoke with a forcemeat made of two shallots well chopped, six mushrooms minced, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a little butter and grated nutmeg, mix well together, tie up the artichokes with string. Heat three tablespoonfuls of good olive oil in a pan, and brown them well on both sides and then place the artichokes in a fireproof dish and put a bit of butter on the top of each, bake for forty minutes in the oven, and serve. Pour any kind of sauce over them.

Artichokes and Eggs.—Cut off the sharp tops of young artichokes and slice them into four pieces, flour them and put them into a fireproof dish with boiling, pure olive oil. Beat up two or three eggs with some salt, pour over the artichokes, and cook till the eggs are set. Serve hot in the dish in which they were cooked.

Fried Artichokes.—Cut off the sharp ends of the leaves of quite young artichokes and any hard leaves off the stalks, which must be peeled. Cut the artichokes into four pieces, put them in a saucepan with butter, salt and pepper. Shake the saucepan occasionally, and when they have absorbed all the butter pour over them a cup of water to finish the cooking. Take them out, dry them, and put into a saucepan some chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of finely grated bread, and the juice of a lemon. Boil the sauce for a few minutes, then take it off the fire and add a little more water, heat again over the fire, pour over the artichokes, and serve hot.

ASPARAGUS (Asparagus officinalis. Liliaceæ).

As asparagus is a perennial plant of long life it is of great importance that the bed in which it is to spend fifteen years or more should be well prepared and suitable for it. A light sandy loam is the very best of soil for this purpose. If, however, the gardener has only heavy soil at his command, he can still grow good asparagus by providing ample drainage and by raising his asparagus beds a few inches above the level of the surrounding garden.

Ground should be prepared for asparagus in the early winter, when it must be thoroughly trenched, and left in a rough condition for the winter frosts to pulverise and open it. A good dressing of manure should be dug into the second spit.

Asparagus is generally planted far too closely, with the result that only very second-rate sticks are grown. Now a mature asparagus plant will be from three to four feet across the roots if properly grown, and this definitely points to the fact that the plants should be at least three feet apart. There is no doubt whatever that plants four feet apart will give the finest heads, and the ideal width for the beds would be three feet, with two-foot alleys between, the plants being put four feet apart down the middle of the beds. Unfortunately few gardeners (except nurserymen growing for the market) will afford this ample space, therefore we lay down as the absolute minimum distances two and a half feet between the rows, the plants the same distance in the row. By placing the plants alternately and not opposite each other in the adjoining row a little more distance apart is given.

No asparagus bed should contain more than three rows—two are plenty—as it injures the heads if the gardeners are tramping about over them gathering the crop. The edge of the bed should be at least eighteen inches distant from the nearest row of plants, and between the beds eighteen-inch alleyways should be left for traffic and cultural purposes.

Since asparagus is four years coming to bearing size from seed, many people prefer to start a plantation with two or three year old plants, but it is difficult to transplant safely, and certainly the best plantations come from seed. This should be sown in March or April. At each point where it is wished to establish a crown three seeds should be planted an inch apart and two inches deep. When the seedlings are well up the strongest should be left and the two others pulled away.

If, however, plants are to be put out the utmost care is necessary. In the first place it is no use planting in autumn or winter. The only safe time is just when the plants are beginning to make their spring growth. If moved when they are dormant the plants will lie quietly rotting in the ground, and the gardener will be lucky if ten per cent. of autumn-moved plants survive.

March and April are the months in which to plant; February is generally too early and May is sometimes too late, though we have this year made a small plantation at the end of April every plant of which has survived. The ground is prepared for the plants by opening it out to a depth of four inches, and by means of the garden line and a rake or hoe ridges should be formed along the line the plants are to be placed. When the plants arrive from the nursery they should be at once unpacked, a few at a time, and planted forthwith, as drying winds are most injurious to the roots. The roots should be laid on and over the ridges and earth at once drawn over them. Repeat the operation, half a dozen plants at a time, until the whole is finished. Earth should be returned from the alleys till the beds stand some four inches above them, and all raked level and tidy. The crowns should not be more than four inches beneath the surface of the finished bed.

The after culture of asparagus is not difficult. The beds should be kept weeded; the hand fork and hand weeding are preferable to using a hoe to cut the plants as well as the weeds. In the autumn the beds should be cleaned up and the stems cut down to within six inches of the soil, the top two inches of earth should be removed to the alleys, and a good mulch of fat manure spread over the bed.

In February the long straw and debris of this mulch should be raked off, and the earth returned from the alleys; at the same time a top-dressing of two ounces superphosphate of lime and of four ounces of kainit per square yard should be applied. About mid-March give a top-dressing of half an ounce of nitrate of soda per square yard, and repeat this dose every fortnight till the end of May, always selecting showery days, or if these are not to be found, give a thorough watering with the hose after the application.

The bed should not be cut from for two seasons; thereafter it maybe cut until mid-June. It is better not to allow the plants to develop seed, as it will weaken the plants, and it is important not to disturb the earth in the alleyways too deeply, as the plants will send their roots right out into them. For the first two years radishes, lettuce, or even spinach may be grown in them, but for the first two years only.

Forcing Asparagus.—Where there is sufficient space and labour it is not difficult to obtain a winter supply of this delicious vegetable. But as the plants can only be forced once, and then must be thrown away, it is necessary to devote a special bed to growing forcing plants. A quarter of the area of the bed must be sown yearly, thus providing for one, two, three, and four-year-old plants. Seed should be sown in early April, in rows two feet apart, and the plants should be left two feet in the rows. The general treatment is much as given above, except that the spring top-dressing of nitrate of soda must be limited to two applications, one in April, one in May.

Beginning in November, prepare a hotbed as for cucumbers with about three feet of fermenting material; when the heat is mild and even, spread three inches of light soil on top, lift the four-year-old plants, a few at a time, very carefully, and pack them into the frame as close as possible. Cover with four inches of light soil, and give a good watering with tepid water. Admit some air on mild days by lifting the back of the light; if there be frost, cover with mats. Do not over-water the frame, but do not let it get really dry. If the heat dies away too soon, line with hot manure round the frame. Extra care will have to be exercised in cutting the heads; in fact the best way is to remove the soil and break them off with the fingers. A frame so treated will yield asparagus for about four weeks, and when the asparagus is out of the way will grow early radishes, lettuce, and carrots.

ITALIAN DISHES.

Plain Asparagus.—Take a bundle of asparagus, scrape the white of each stalk lightly, put them in cold water. Then tie them in bundles of twenty-five, or, if very large, of twelve or fifteen, keep the heads together, and keep the ends of one length. Cook them quickly for fifteen minutes in two quarts of boiling water, in which one ounce of salt has been put. Dish up on a piece of toast and serve very hot with oiled fresh butter (not sauce) or Dutch sauce.

Dutch Sauce.—Rub four ounces of butter to a cream in a saucepan or bowl, add four yolks of eggs, beat well together and put in half a teaspoonful of salt, the juice of half a lemon, a pinch of Cayenne, and a cupful of hot water, poured in by degrees, mix well, and put in a “bain-marie.” Stir until the sauce becomes of the consistency of thick cream. Be careful it does not boil, or it will curdle. Take it off the fire and stir for some minutes. Dutch sauce ought to be quite smooth and creamy. Half these quantities of butter and eggs would make an excellent dish.

Asparagus à l’Espagnolle.—Cut off the green heads of a bunch of asparagus and wash well, boil for fifteen minutes in salted boiling water, strain carefully. Put in a saucepan two ounces of butter, stir in one good tablespoonful of flour, add half a pint of cream or milk, and a little pepper and salt. Stir carefully, let it boil for three minutes, add the asparagus heads and serve very hot.

Asparagus à la Suprême.—Choose asparagus of about the same size, break off the tenderest part with your finger and cut into small bits, cooking the tips last. Put them into salted boiling water, boil for fifteen minutes, then drain, and place in a baking pan with a little melted fresh butter. Put on the fire for a few minutes, add some salt and lemon juice. Serve hot.

Asparagus à la Pompadour.—Cut cleaned asparagus into two-inch lengths, boil until tender in salted water, and drain. Bring to the boil two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and one tablespoonful of butter, salt and pepper to season. When boiling, take from the fire, add the well-beaten yolk of an egg, pour over the asparagus, and serve.

Asparagus Soufflé.—Take some asparagus (previously boiled) and rub it through a sieve. Add the yolks of three well-beaten eggs and three tablespoonfuls of milk, with pepper and salt to taste. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, mix in, add the asparagus purée, and put in buttered soufflé dishes and bake for ten minutes. This makes a tasty course for a luncheon or dinner.

Asparagus Omelette.—Beat six eggs, whites and yolks separately, add three tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, cut the green part of thirty-six heads of asparagus (which have been previously boiled) in small pieces, mix with the eggs, add a spoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, pepper, and cook in an omelette pan in which an ounce of butter has been dissolved. Serve very hot.

Asparagus Omelette (2).—Break four eggs into a bowl and beat until light and foamy without separating whites and yolks. Add four tablespoonfuls of cream or rich milk, a saltspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper. Have a smooth, clean omelette pan ready, and melt a tablespoonful of butter or vegetable oil in it, tilting it so that it will run all over the pan to grease the sides as well as the bottom. When hissing hot pour in the egg mixture. As it cools, prick in several places with a fork until the whole is of a creamy consistency. Have in readiness several spoonfuls of cooked asparagus points, mixed with a little melted butter, a few drops of lemon juice, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Slip the omelette on to a sheet of kitchen paper on a hot dish, put on one half the asparagus tips, fold over, and slip off the paper on to a hot dish and send to table quickly; nothing spoils so quickly as an omelette. Three minutes waste of time makes it as tough as leather. If liked, the edges of the omelette may be garnished with more asparagus tips.

Asparagus Mould.—Well butter a pudding mould, put in a layer of the tender part of cooked asparagus cut up small, next a layer of cooked green peas, then two hard-boiled eggs cut in slices, another layer of asparagus, and lastly of peas. Beat up three eggs, stir in two ounces of flour rolled in one ounce of butter, add a cupful of milk, stirring all the time, and salt and pepper to taste. Pour the mixture into the mould, cover with buttered paper, steam for two hours, turn out on to a hot dish, and serve with white sauce round it.

Aspérge à la Mousseline.—Place cooked and well-drained asparagus on square or diamond slices of toast; keep hot. Prepare a sauce beforehand by heating two ounces of butter with the yolks of four eggs, and two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste. Cook in a double pan until it thickens, then add two tablespoonfuls of butter in small pieces, and two tablespoonfuls of cream or a little more. Pour very hot over the asparagus and toast. Serve immediately.

Baked Asparagus.—Cook the asparagus in boiling salted water until tender, drain, and put into a buttered baking dish with a little grated Parmesan cheese between the layers. Chop a small onion finely and fry in butter, and spread over the asparagus, and sprinkle with cheese and crumbs, and brown in a hot oven.

Asparagus Baked with Cheese.—Prepare according to directions given for boiled asparagus. Make a sauce of three tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, one cupful of water and half a cupful of cream or milk, let it boil for three minutes, add the yolks of two eggs, and two tablespoonfuls of grated cheese. Heat thoroughly but do not boil. Lay the asparagus full length into an oval buttered baking dish, cover with the sauce, and sprinkle with cheese. Repeat until the dish is full, having sauce on the top. Sprinkle with crumbs and cheese, dot with butter, and bake for half an hour.

Asparagus Tips à la Polonaise.—Clean and cut some asparagus three or four inches long, season with salt and pepper, and put them in a buttered paper bag with a teaspoonful of fried bread-crumbs and a little melted butter. Close the bag and cook in a moderate oven for half an hour.—Newark News.

Asparagus “Alla Casalinga.”—Take fifty heads of asparagus and cook the green part in boiling salted water, then drain and put the asparagus into a baking dish with four ounces of butter (or two ounces would suffice). Sprinkle with grated cheese, salt and pepper to taste, brown slightly, garnish with eggs fried in butter. Serve hot.—Mrs. Ross, Leaves from a Tuscan Kitchen.

Asparagus “Alla Crema.”—Take the heads only of the asparagus, as many as are required; put them into boiling water with a little salt; boil for fifteen minutes. Prepare meanwhile some thick squares of roll or white bread without the crust, scoop out the centre of each piece without breaking through, and put in a piece of butter, then fry or bake until the bread turns a golden-yellow colour. After draining the heads of the asparagus, place them in the holes in the bread. Take care to keep them hot. Then heat half a pint of milk and two or three yolks of eggs, and stir until it thickens to a smooth custard, but it must not boil. Take off the fire, and add a little butter and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Pour over the asparagus and croûtons, and serve very hot.—Mrs. Ross, Leaves from a Tuscan Kitchen.

Baked Asparagus with Eggs.—Cut the tender parts of the asparagus into half-inch lengths, boil until tender in salted water. Drain, and mix with a drawn-butter sauce, seasoning with salt and pepper, and pour into a buttered baking dish. Break five or six eggs carefully on the surface, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and put into the oven until the eggs have set.

Asparagus Tips Sauté.—Boil the tips until cooked, about fifteen minutes, in salted water, then drain them thoroughly. Sauté in melted butter, season with salt and pepper, grated nutmeg, and a little sugar.

Creamed Asparagus.—Boil the green parts of the asparagus until tender in salted water with a tiny bit of soda, drain and chop. Reheat in cream sauce. Season with salt and pepper, and cool; stir into it three eggs, well beaten, with two tablespoonfuls of cream. Pour into a buttered baking dish, cover, and bake for twenty minutes, but do not let it boil; then uncover and brown.

Crême Asparagus.—Cut the heads of the asparagus into two-inch lengths. Parboil for ten minutes in salted water and drain. Put a heaped tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, when hot sprinkle with a tablespoonful of flour, add a cupful of boiling milk, salt and pepper to season; cook until thick, stirring all the time.

Asparagus with Egg Sauce.—Cook three cupfuls of asparagus tips until tender, and drain. Reheat one cupful of cream sauce, put the rest into a well-buttered baking dish, pour over the asparagus, and set the dish in a pan of boiling water, and put into the oven for fifteen minutes. Sprinkle with parsley, and serve with egg sauce.

Escalloped Asparagus.—Wash and cut up a bunch of asparagus, discarding the tough ends. Boil in salted water about twenty minutes until tender, and drain. Boil three eggs hard, throw into cold water, remove the shells, and chop finely. Butter a shallow baking dish, and put in a layer of asparagus, covered with chopped eggs, sprinkle with grated cheese, repeat until the dish is full, having asparagus on the top. Pour over four tablespoonfuls of drawn butter or half a pint of cream sauce, cover with crumbs, dot with butter, sprinkle with grated cheese, and bake until brown.

Asparagus Fricassée.—Clean and cut up twenty-five stalks of asparagus, discarding the tough ends, drain and chop one head of lettuce, half a head of endive, and a small onion. Put a heaped tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan and cook in it a tablespoonful of flour, add one cupful of milk or water, and stir until it thickens. Stir constantly, add the chopped vegetables, with salt and pepper to season; simmer over a slow fire for half an hour, and serve very hot.

Ragout of Asparagus.—Chop finely a little parsley, two or three young onions, and a few leaves of lettuce, fry them brown in butter, dredge with flour, add a cupful of water, and salt and pepper to season. Reheat the cooked asparagus in this sauce, sprinkle with grated nutmeg, and serve very hot.

Asparagus (American Recipe).—Take thick slices of bread about two inches thick, and stamp them out into neat rounds with a biscuit cutter; with a smaller cutter mark a circle in the centre of each, round and scoop out the crumbs to the depth of an inch, taking care to leave the sides and bottom quite firm; arrange these in a shallow dish and pour over them half a pint of milk to which a beaten egg has been added. Then take up carefully and fry in a frying basket in a pan of boiling fat. They will brown immediately, and must be removed when a pale golden brown; drain on kitchen paper. Cut the tender part of the asparagus into pieces of an equal size, rejecting that which is woody. Wash, and simmer in salted water until tender, and drain. Put a heaped tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan with a heaped tablespoonful of flour, then add a quarter of a pint of the water in which the asparagus was cooked; let it come to the boil and add the asparagus, the juice of a lemon, and one teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley. Fill the canapes with this mixture and arrange on a dish and garnish with cress or parsley and sliced lemon.

Asparagus à la Tartare.—Cool cooked asparagus on ice, and serve very cold with mayonnaise or Tartare sauce.

Tartare Sauce.—Mix six tablespoonfuls of olive oil, two of vinegar, two teaspoonfuls of French mustard, salt and pepper to taste, and a pinch of sugar. Bring to the boil and pour hot over boiled and drained asparagus. Cover, stand on ice, and serve very cold.

Asparagus à la Tyson.—Boil the asparagus in salted water, drain, cut the strings, and arrange on buttered toast. Cook together a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, add a cupful of the water in which the asparagus was boiled, and cook until thick, stirring constantly. Season with salt, red and black pepper, and pour over the asparagus and serve.

BASIL (Ocymum basilicum. Labiatæ).

Sow in pans in a hotbed in April. Transplant in May into a light, rich border, setting the plants nine inches apart. The flower stems should be cut as soon as ready and dried for winter use, in the way of lavender. They are used for seasoning, as also are the young leaves, which the plants will continue to grow until the frosts.

BROAD BEAN (Vicia faba. Leguminosæ).

Broad beans may be grown in any good garden soil, but they prefer a rich, well-drained loam. A sandy loam will produce early and mid-season crops, but will be found to be too hot for late crops; while a heavy soil is more suited to mid-season and late crops than to early ones.

The ground for beans should be prepared early in the autumn, and in light soils plenty of manure trenched in will keep the plants growing through a dry season. In a light soil a sowing may be made during open weather in mid-December. This early sowing gives the beans time to get their roots well down, out of the reach of drought, and will yield in June, but about once in five years frost and damp will destroy the whole sowing.

In normal soils February is perhaps early enough to make the first sowing, and in heavier ground, March. Where there is plenty of space, if late beans are in great request, sowings may be made till mid-June in heavy soils, but in moderately light ground it is not worth while to sow after April. March and April are the best months, however, in the generality of gardens for successional sowings.

Where an extra early supply is needed, sow in boxes in gentle heat, early in February; grow on in cold frames as soon as up; harden off and plant out early in March. A sheltered and warm border must be chosen for this planting, and the plants should be set in rows two feet apart, the plants six inches in the row. This procedure should provide broad beans about the 14th of June.

Some gardeners plant beans with a dibber, but it is much better practice to open out a trench six inches wide with the hoe, and place the beans in this trench in two rows, the beans nine inches apart in the row, and set W fashion. This method ensures the seed being planted at an even depth, and obviates any poaching of the soil by the dibber, which always tends to leave a cylindrical hole with compressed sides. The double rows of beans should be thirty inches apart.

In June, when the beans are well in flower, they are too often attacked by the black aphis. This may be washed off and killed by syringing with an emulsion of soft soap and paraffin. It is good practice to break off the infected tops and burn them. Topping the plants will be no detriment, but will throw the strength back into the pods already forming. Finally, gather the beans as soon as they are at all large enough to cook; old beans are good, but young beans are far better.

DISHES.

Boiled Broad Beans are best when gathered young, about two-thirds grown; the flavour is then very delicate. Some consider this plan wasteful, but it is not so, really, as if one waits for the crop to attain its full size, an enormous quantity of beans are ready at once. By beginning early one can keep pace with nature.

Shell the beans, and put them into boiling water with one tablespoonful of salt and a very small piece of soda. Boil for ten minutes if very young, increasing the length of time as they grow older. Drain and heap up on a drainer, pour over parsley sauce, and serve very hot.

Parsley Sauce.—Pick and wash some fresh parsley, dip into boiling water for a minute, place in the corner of a towel, and wring out. This process eliminates some of the bitter flavour, and saves the trouble of boiling the parsley. Chop with a Lightning Mince Cutter. Make a good white sauce (see Sauces), put in the chopped parsley, stir well, and pour over the beans.

Polenta Beans.—Boil two cupfuls of haricot or butter beans, which have soaked overnight, until soft, drain, add two tablespoonfuls of molasses, a teaspoonful each of salt, mustard, and olive oil, pepper to taste, and a little vinegar. Cook in a baking dish in the oven for twenty minutes and serve very hot.

Cream Beans.—Soak one pint of haricot or butter beans overnight in cold water, drain and boil until soft in salted water. Haricots will take two or three hours, butter beans about one and a half hours. Press through a sieve, and mix with a sufficient quantity of cream sauce to make very soft, season with salt and pepper, add two eggs well beaten, turn into a buttered baking dish, sprinkle with crumbs, dot with butter, and bake brown.

Broad Bean Pudding.—-When broad beans get too old for eating plain, boil them and rub them through a sieve, pound smoothly with a little pepper and salt, some cream, and the yolk of one egg, boil one hour in a buttered basin that will just hold the mixture, and serve with parsley sauce.

French Bean Curry.—Cook your beans and drain, and when cold add other cold vegetables that may be left over, carrots, peas, &c., mix them with butter and onions, previously cooked together, add a teaspoonful of curry powder and a little flour, let them simmer a long time, adding a little stock as the moisture dries up, then serve as a curry, with well-boiled rice separately.

Haricot Beans.—Soak twelve hours, boil three hours, and serve with piquant sauce.

Broad Beans (South American Dish).—Take one pint of shelled beans, and put them into boiling water. Boil rapidly for six or seven minutes, then drain and skin them. Put into a stewpan one ounce of butter and a small onion finely chopped, let them sweat for five minutes. Add six button mushrooms finely chopped and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, stir in an ounce of flour and a little salt and pepper, a teaspoonful of lemon juice and a teacupful of boiling water; add the beans, and simmer gently for fifteen minutes; just before serving add a wineglassful of sherry.

Bean Soufflé (Haricot).—Soak two cupfuls of dry haricot beans overnight, and boil until soft in water to cover, about three hours, changing the water once. Drain, press through a sieve, season with salt and pepper, add a little butter, and four tablespoonfuls of hot milk, and mix well. Fold in the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs, turn into a buttered baking dish, bake for twenty minutes.

Bean Croquettes (Haricot).—Boil two cupfuls of butter or haricot beans until soft, two or three hours, drain, press through a sieve, season with salt and red pepper, and add one tablespoonful each of molasses and vinegar, mix thoroughly, cool and shape into croquettes, dip in egg and bread-crumbs, fry in butter, and serve with tomato sauce.

FRENCH BEANS (Phaseolus vulgaris. Leguminosæ).

French or kidney beans may be sown in April if an early sort be chosen and a sunny bed selected. The rows should be thirty inches apart, and the plants thinned to nine inches in the rows; as they will transplant well, gaps can be made up where there have been failures. For later sorts the plants should be at least a foot apart. The main sowings should be made from about the 20th of April till the end of May in light soils, in heavy ground they may be sown right through June; for later sowings choose quick-growing, forcing varieties. If climbing varieties be used the rows must be four or five feet apart, and sticks provided for the plants to climb over. Catch crops of early lettuce may be planted between the rows at the time of sowing (or the beans may be set between rows of established lettuce plants). Radishes and mustard and cress are other crops which may be grown between rows of kidney beans with advantage.

Flageolet and Haricot Beans need the same treatment as kidney beans. All these subjects are tender and will not stand frost.

Forcing Kidney Beans.—The dwarf forcing varieties may be sown on hotbeds, with six inches of good soil on top, beginning in February. They must have plenty of air on mild days, and not be over-watered; at the same time they must not be allowed to dry out; the plants may stand a foot apart. Gathering should begin in such a frame about the end of April.

If there be an orchard-house available the beans may be sown in heat in boxes in February, and transplanted to the orchard-house. Or beans sown in this way in March may be transplanted to a warm border sheltered from slight frosts, with the possibility of giving ample protection from sharp frost by means of mats or litter overhead. But after all, forcing kidney beans is a job that requires a good deal of time or of labour, and is hardly for the single-handed gardener.

SCARLET RUNNER BEAN (Phaseolus multiflorus. Leguminosæ).

This noble bean gives the most reliable crop of late summer and early autumn vegetables. It is easy to grow, and cottage and hall alike enjoy its succulent fruit. There are many new and improved varieties, and it is now possible to grow beans a foot long, an inch deep, and as tender as possible.

The best runners are grown in soil trenched and manured some months in advance, but where space is a consideration we find that they follow spring cabbage well. By clearing the middle row of three in a bed of cabbage, room will be found to open a trench fifteen inches wide and two spits deep; this should be done late in April. Into the bottom of this trench a heavy dressing of very old, buttery manure (such as comes from the heart of an exhausted hotbed) should be dug deeply. The soil should then be returned and trodden firm, until the trench is four inches deep; rake the surface level and place the beans on it in two rows, the beans nine inches apart in the row, or even a foot will be none too far apart. Then return most of the rest of the earth, leaving a trench one inch below the general level of the garden. This leaves a useful depression for watering.

By the time the beans are well up and are ready for staking, the cabbage will be mostly cleared away, and will have taken no harm from their neighbours; indeed there need be no hurry to clear the last of the cabbages, which may prove useful to the end of June. A long, strong stake should be placed by each bean, and thrust a good foot into the ground. These stakes should incline inwards from each side of the double row, and be tied together at their intersection. These ties should be at a uniform height, and in the V-shaped crossing of the stakes other stakes should be laid lengthways, and also tied to the uprights. By these means a rigid hedge is provided, which will carry the great weight of haulm in safety. A second sowing may be made about the end of May, but if the beans are kept rigorously picked the plants will go on bearing right up to the early frosts. As the haulm reaches the tops of the stakes it must be pinched, in order to make it break from joints lower down. Weeds should be pulled up, and in dry weather a good soaking of water every three days will be a great help in promoting the setting of the beans.

Make a practice of gathering all the beans as fast as they come to perfection; it is important that none should be allowed to mature seed; one pod with ripe seed on a plant will certainly check the further growth of fresh beans.

DISHES.

French Beans en Fricassé.—Cut off the ends and strings of some young French beans. Cook them in salted water, then drain them well. Put them into a saucepan with two ounces butter and chopped onion, or if liked, garlic and parsley chopped very fine, with a little salt. Be careful to add some sauce if the beans dry up before they are completely cooked. Toss them in the pan for a few minutes, and before taking them off the fire add the yolks of one or two eggs (according to the quantity of beans) well beaten up, with a little water, the juice of a lemon, and some grated Parmesan cheese. Stir from time to time, never allowing them to boil, or the eggs will set. To keep the beans a good colour, put a pinch of salt, with a pinch of soda, in the water when boiling them.

French Beans al Pomodoro.—Take your French beans, cut off the ends and string. Wash in cold water, boil till tender, and drain. While still wet, put them into a baking dish with some good olive oil, some chopped onion and parsley, salt and pepper to taste. Put the dish on the fire with the cover on, and cook slowly. As the beans dry add the juice of some tomatoes or some good tomato conserve. Take care they do not burn.

Beans with Cream.—Cut off the ends, remove the strings, and cut into two or three pieces. Wash in cold water, drain, and boil until tender in salted water. Beat the yolks of three eggs, add half a cupful of cream, and a tablespoonful of melted butter. Heat thoroughly and add gradually a tablespoonful of vinegar; when smooth and thick pour over the beans, keep hot a few minutes, and serve.

Beans with Parsley.—String the beans, cut in strips, and cook until tender, then put them in melted butter. Sprinkle with minced parsley, keep warm for ten minutes, and serve.

Beans à la Bretonne.—Prepare according to directions given for beans with cream, using one quart of beans, drain and reheat with a tablespoonful each of butter and chopped onion; brown slightly. Season with minced parsley, pepper, and salt, add the juice of a lemon and a cupful of white stock or hot milk. Serve immediately.

How to Preserve French Beans.—The strings should be pulled off. Wash them, then cook them for ten minutes in boiling water. Take them out, and pour cold water over them, dry them, and put them into jars, and fill to the brim with salted water; cover, and tie up the tops, put the jars into hot water for an hour and a half without ever letting them actually boil or the jars might be cracked. They should be placed in a deep enough pan, so as to cover the jars to the necks.

French Beans Boiled.—String, and cut in crossway slices two pounds of French beans, put into abundance of boiling water, to which one tablespoonful of salt and a piece of soda the size of a pea have been added; this preserves the fresh green. If there is not plenty of water the beans will not cook properly. Boil for twenty minutes to half an hour. Drain through a colander and serve on a drainer.

French Beans Sauté.—Boil as above; after draining, return to the saucepan. Add a sprinkle of pepper and a tablespoonful of butter; shake well for three minutes and serve very hot.

BEETROOT (Beta vulgaris. Chenopodiaceæ).

As with all root crops, a soil fairly free from stones is preferred; a stony ground will produce malformed roots. A light sandy loam will grow the best beet, but any good garden soil will answer excellently. There should be no recent manure in the two upper spits, but a slight dressing of old manure beneath the second spit will work wonders.

A giant beet is far from desirable for cooking, as it requires such a monstrous great pan, since, if the taproot be broken, the beet will bleed and lose all its colour, and the cook will send anæmic-looking slabs of garnishing on the salads. Probably there is no better beet for private growing than Nutting’s dwarf red. The turnip-rooted beets are compact, it is true, but we do not think they can compare with this for flavour or tender texture.

Sow beet during April in shallow drills a foot apart, single the seedlings in May, and thin out three weeks later to eight inches distance. Keep the ground free from weeds by means of frequent use of the Dutch hoe. The roots may be used as soon as large enough, and the whole crop must be lifted in September, or early October. Choosing a bright dry day, lift them with a long tined fork most carefully, trim the leaves off two inches from the crown, and store in sand in a cool, frost-proof cellar. The utmost care must be taken not to bruise or break the roots.

Swiss Chard or Leaf Beet.—Three hundred years ago, before the introduction of beetroot, beets were grown for their foliage only, and Gerarde, who wrote in 1597, tells us that “the leaves were eaten as salad with oil and vinegar.”

The cultivation is much the same as for root beet, except that it can stand more manure, as it is the foliage which is required, and the ground does not need much preparation. At the end of the summer the leaves can be gathered, and, with a little protection from frost, the plants will bear for a long time.

The leaves can be eaten for salad or cooked like spinach with a little sorrel, and the midribs are treated as sea kale or cardoons. It will thus be seen it is a very useful plant.—W. F. Giles, Sutton and Sons, Reading.

ITALIAN DISHES.

Beet Leaves Boiled.—Take the young leaves of white beetroot, tie them in bunches, and put them into salted boiling water. They can be cooked in butter like Spinach, or served on buttered toast with Sauce Hollandaise.

Beet “Gnocchi.”—Wash well and remove the midribs of a bundle of beet leaves, boil, and then throw them into cold water, dry, and mince them very finely, put them into an earthenware pot with four ounces of freshly grated cheese, four fresh eggs, four ounces of curds or fresh milk cheese, a little grated nutmeg, and some salt. When thick, put it on a well-floured table and make a long roll the size of a finger, cut into pieces about two inches long, flour them well, and throw them into an earthen pot of boiling water.

As they come to the surface take them out, drain well, season with butter, a little grated nutmeg, cinnamon, and cheese. These must be cooked over a hot fire.—Leaves from a Tuscan Kitchen.

Boiled Beetroot.—Select small, smooth beets and clean without cutting or scraping them. Boil for an hour or two, and cool. Remove the skins, cut them into slices, and serve either cold, or reheat in melted butter with salt, pepper, vinegar, chopped parsley and a little chopped, boiled onion added to season it.

Stewed Beetroot.—Prepare according to the direction given for boiled beets, and cut into thin slices. Cook together a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, add a cupful of water and a tablespoonful of vinegar. Cook until thick, stirring constantly. Season with salt and pepper, heat the beets in the sauce, and serve with small button onions parboiled, and fried brown in butter and sugar.

Another method.—Prepare according to directions given for boiled beets. When peeled and sliced reheat, with salt, pepper and vinegar to taste, a boiled onion chopped fine, and a little minced parsley; add a little flour cooked in butter and simmer slowly for fifteen minutes, stirring frequently.

Cream Beets.—Cook small white beets in salted water until tender. Rinse in cold water, rub off the skins, and reheat in cream sauce, or cut boiled beet into dice and mix with the sauce, adding more butter.

Crême Sauce.—A mixture of Béchamel Sauce. (See Sauce, p. 208.) Let it cool and then add two tablespoonfuls of cream and the yolk of one egg.

Baked Beets.—Wash without peeling, and bake slowly until done. Remove the skin, cut into slices, and season with melted butter, salt, and pepper. Serve very hot, with a little vinegar or sugar added to the seasoning, or serve whole with seasoned, melted butter.

Beets with Sour Sauce.—Prepare according to directions given for boiled beets, blend a heaped teaspoonful of cornflour with a little cold water, mix with a scant cupful of vinegar, bring to the boil, and cook till thick, stirring constantly. Add a teaspoonful each of butter and sugar to the sauce, and season with salt and pepper. Pour over the beets, and serve very hot in a covered dish. Less vinegar may be used, adding water as needed, and the sugar can be omitted also.

Pickled Beets.—(1) Wash small beets, but do not cut or scrape them. Cover with boiling water and boil until tender. Drain, rinse in cold water. Rub off the peel with your fingers, cut into slices, sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover with vinegar and let them stand for several hours before using. Serve cold.

(2) Boil two cupfuls of vinegar with a few cloves and peppercorns, a blade of mace, a tiny bit of ginger root. Take from the fire and add two cupfuls more of vinegar, and cool. Two tablespoonfuls of grated horse-radish and sugar to taste may be added. Prepare the beets according to directions given for boiled beets, and when peeled and sliced cover with the spiced vinegar. Let these stand for several hours before using.

Beets with Pink Sauce.—Prepare according to directions given for boiled beets. Peel and cut into dice, saving the juice. Make a drawn-butter sauce, seasoning with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Reheat the beets in the sauce until the sauce is coloured.

Beet Sauté.—Prepare according to directions given for boiled beets. When peeled and sliced fry in butter, seasoning with pepper and sugar, serve hot.

Beets Green.—Use young beets, no larger than a walnut. Don’t cut off the tops. Wash thoroughly in several waters, using salt water first. Cook quickly in salted water until tender, drain, cut off the tops, and skin the beets by plunging into cold water and rubbing off the skins. Drain the greens, cut them up, and mix with the beets, season with salt and pepper, add melted butter and vinegar or lemon juice. Garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs. Serve cold.

Beets à la Barbette.—Wash the beets and cook in boiling salted water until tender, leaving on a portion of the stalk. Rub off the peel, slice, season with salt, pepper, and brown sugar, and a little caraway seed. Pour over vinegar to taste, and let them stand several hours before using. For a relish beets may be chopped fine and mixed with an equal quantity of grated horse-radish.

Beets à la Béchamel.—Prepare according to directions given for boiled beets, and reheat in Béchamel sauce.

Beets à la Chartreuse.—Prepare according to directions for boiled beets. Cut a very thin slice of onion for every two slices of beet, and sandwich a slice of onion between each two, pressing together gently. Season with salt, pepper and vinegar, dip in butter, and fry slowly in deep fat, or butter, or oil.

Beets à la St. Laurence.—Previously prepare according to boiled beets. Fry a chopped onion in butter, dredge with flour, add two cupfuls of vegetable stock or milk, and cook until thick, stirring constantly. Add the beets, salt and pepper to taste, and cook for ten minutes; add two tablespoonfuls of butter and one of vinegar, bring to the boil, and serve.

Beet-greens or Tops à l’Anglaise.—Wash thoroughly and pick apart tender young beet tops. Cook until tender in a covered saucepan, using only enough melted butter to keep from burning. When tender, season with pepper and salt, add melted butter. Garnish with sliced hard-boiled eggs.

BORAGE (Boraginaceæ).

Sow in March and April in any ordinary garden soil in shallow drills a foot apart. Thin out the seedlings to a foot apart and keep the ground hoed between. The young leaves are used for claret, champagne, ginger ale cups, and as flavouring and garnishing for salads.

BORECOLE or KALE.—For culture, see under Cabbage.

BROCCOLI.—For culture, see under Cabbage.

BROCCOLI DISHES.

Boiled Broccoli.—To each half gallon of water allow one tablespoonful of salt and a tiny bit of soda; strip off the outside leaves, cut off the inside ones level with the flower; cut off the stalks close to the bottoms, and put the broccoli into cold salted water or vinegar and water, heads downwards, let them remain for about three-quarters of an hour, then put them into a saucepan of boiling water salted in the above proportion, and keep them boiling gently with the stalks upwards and the saucepan uncovered. Take up with a slice the moment they are done, drain well, and serve with a tureen of melted butter, a little of which should be poured over the broccoli. If left in the water after it is done the broccoli will break, its colour will be spoilt, and its crispness lost. If boiled too fast it will break.

Note.—It is a good plan to place a small piece of toast or bread in the saucepan in which green vegetables are boiled, as this absorbs the unpleasant odour generated during the cooking.

Broccoli au Gratin.—Boil the broccoli according to directions, put in a tureen, and sprinkle over a little pepper and quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan cheese, put in the oven for five minutes until the cheese is melted.

Mould of Broccoli.—Butter a mould, and put in the parboiled flower broken in smallish pieces, pour in a good white sauce in which two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese have been dissolved, a squeeze of lemon juice, and two hard-boiled eggs chopped up; the eggs should be placed among the broccoli; pour in the sauce, cover with buttered paper, and steam for one hour or bake for half an hour.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS.—For culture, see under Cabbage.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS DISHES.

Boiled Brussels Sprouts.—Wash and pick over the sprouts and boil until tender (about twenty minutes to half an hour), in water to which a little salt and a pinch of soda have been added. Drain, and reheat with an ounce of butter with a little salt and pepper, but do not fry them.

Brussels Sprouts with Cream Sauce.—Trim off the loose leaves and soak for half an hour in cold salted water. Boil in sufficient water to cover them, add a little salt and a piece of soda the size of a pea, season with pepper, and pour over a cupful of cream sauce. Simmer for five or ten minutes and serve, or reheat in Béchamel sauce, or in melted butter.

Brussels Sprouts Sauté.—(1) Boil the cleaned sprouts for twenty minutes in salted water with a pinch of soda, drain, fry in butter. Season with minced parsley and pepper, and serve. Grated nutmeg may be added or one or two spoonfuls of white wine vinegar.

(2) Clean and trim one quart of sprouts and soak in cold water for half an hour. Then cook for half an hour in salted boiling water with a little soda; drain, and add three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Sprinkle with pepper, and shake the pan over the fire until they are slightly coloured. Serve at once.

Brussels Sprouts with Cream.—Prepare the sprouts according to directions given for boiled sprouts, drain and reheat with a little Béchamel sauce, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; heat thoroughly, add a little cream, bring slowly to the boil, and serve.

Brussels Sprouts au Gratin.—Prepare according to directions given for Brussels sprouts with cream sauce. Put in a buttered baking dish. Sprinkle with crumbs, dot with butter, and brown in the oven.

Brussels Sprouts alla Parmesan.—Boil the sprouts until tender in salted water, and drain. Arrange in a baking dish with alternate layers of grated Parmesan cheese. Season with salt, pepper, and melted butter, and serve very hot.

Brussels Sprouts alla Chipolata.—Wash and trim one quart of Brussels sprouts, cook for five minutes in boiling salted water with a pinch of soda. Drain and rinse in cold water. Drain and recook in boiling water to cover. Cook for twelve minutes and drain very dry. Serve with melted butter poured over.

CABBAGE (Brassica oleracea. Cruciferæ).

It seems better to deal with the culture of the generality of Brassicas together, and to first speak of the conditions under which all flourish, noting any special requirement of a subject under its own heading.

Cabbage-kind without any exception are greedy feeders, they like holding soil; stiffish loam, even if it verges on clay, will suit them all. Waterlogged ground of course will not do for them; heavy soil must be well drained to be of use. But they are none of them over particular; given space, nourishment, and firm ground they will do well in any good garden soil.

It is unwise to crop ground continuously with Brassicas, in which class turnips are included, as the disease called clubroot is apt to infest cabbage-stale soil, and is difficult to overcome. Dressings of lime are a preventive of this, and in many soils should be applied every third winter, four pounds to a rod of land. Lime, indeed, is a most valuable aid to culture; it sets free the nitrogenous constituents of the earth, and almost every kitchen crop is the better for its generous use.

Speaking generally, ground should be prepared for cabbages by trenching in a good supply of fairly fresh manure some two or three months before planting, as the earth should have time to settle and consolidate, since a light open condition of the soil tends to produce lank, long-jointed greens, while firm ground will grow compact and well-shaped cabbage or sprout.

Cabbage-kind is in season for every month of the year, though in July and August it is apt to be infested with green caterpillars, offspring of the common white butterfly, yet in these months there is such an abundance of other vegetables that then it is in least request.

COMMON CABBAGE (Brassica olerata capitata).

There are two chief sowing months for cabbage, April and August, but the latter is far the most important from the point of view of the cook, as it provides those exquisite spring cabbage, which, properly served, are among the very best of vegetables.

At the end of March or the beginning of April, sow in the open a good compact variety of medium-sized cabbage. When the plants are large enough to handle, prick them out six inches apart in nursery beds, and plant in their permanent quarters in June and July. They should stand eighteen inches to two feet apart, according to the vigour of the variety selected. This comparatively early sowing will give early autumn cabbage. A late April sowing will provide plants which will heart in November and December. Cabbage follows peas or broad beans well, but we think that in the small garden it is wasteful to give too much room to autumn cabbage and so stint space for Brussels sprouts and autumn broccoli.

In cold soils and in the north of England a sowing of Flower of Spring cabbage should be made about the twentieth of July, in southern England the seventh of August is a better date. These cabbage should be pricked out as soon as large enough, and planted in their permanent quarters in September, though even November is sometimes not too late. It is good practice to put these spring cabbage in rows fifteen inches apart in light soil, eighteen inches in heavier ground, and to crowd them in the row even as near as six inches apart. In this case two out of every three plants can be drawn to serve as winter greens, leaving the rest spaced eighteen inches distant to heart in April, May, and even June.

After cutting cabbage, if there is no immediate need to pull up the stumps, a second crop of very delicious sprouts will in open weather quickly appear.

Red Pickling Cabbage should be sown in April and treated as ordinary autumn cabbage. They must be put out quite thirty inches apart.

Chow-Chow or Chinese Cabbage.—It is cultivated in the same way as turnips. It succeeds best when sown about August in drills, with a space from twelve to eighteen inches between the rows, and the drills thinned out to about nine inches or one foot apart. The leaves can be eaten boiled like ordinary borecole, or the midribs can be sent to table like asparagus or chard or seakale beet.

BROCCOLI (Brassica olerata Botrytis).

This valuable subject is, in its hearting varieties, almost indistinguishable from cauliflower, from which it is probably derived, but it has the great added merit of hardiness. It requires similar soil and treatment to the rest of the cabbages, but a few special points about its culture should be noted.

The first sowing of autumn and winter cropping varieties should be made in March in a cold frame. The plants must be pricked out and hardened off, and finally be planted in May in their permanent quarters. We find it good practice, in a small garden, to set them between the rows of early potatoes on the day they are finally earthed up. For this purpose the potato rows should be thirty inches apart, and the broccoli should be two feet apart in the row. When the potatoes are dug in July the earth is laid level round the stems of the broccoli, an ounce to the square yard of nitrate of soda is sprinkled round the plants, and the earth trodden firm. From this planting fine heads may be cut in late September and sometimes on to December.

The main sowing of Broccoli is made out of doors in April, when early and late spring flowering sorts should be sown, as well as purple sprouting broccoli. As soon as large enough rather more than sufficient plants should be pricked out into a nursery bed six inches apart, and these will follow green peas, or broad beans about mid-July, without any digging of the ground beyond a slight surface forking and levelling. They should be put out two feet apart in every way and be well watered in. Dwarf cabbage lettuce may be put out between at the same time; they will be quickly cleared away.

When the plants are starting growth in the spring, a sprinkling of nitrate of soda will help in the production of fine heads. It is also a good thing to give them a mulch of manure in early February.

Cauliflower does not differ botanically from broccoli, but it is more tender and difficult. The heads have, perhaps, a more delicate quality, but we confess that in the small garden we now only grow the Autumn Giant Cauliflower, which comes in earlier than the broccoli, and we depend on the latter for the rest of the year.

Cauliflower that are to be cut in the following summer should be sown about mid-August; they must be well watered and weeded, and cold frames must be made ready for them, by placing six inches of good light soil over a layer of rubble or ash. In October, or early in November, set the plants four inches apart in these frames, and give a good watering; if necessary keep shaded from excessive sun for a few days. Admit plenty of air, and do not let them dry out, but be sparing with the water-pot after the plants are once established. On fine warm days take the lights off altogether, keep closed during frost, and do not let fog have too free an entry; pick any yellow leaves as they show. If frost is severe, cover with mats. Plant out at the end of March, two feet apart, in really rich soil in a warm border; keep watered if necessary, and after they are well settled in give a dose of nitrate, half an ounce to the square yard, and repeat this a fortnight later during a shower if possible.

For autumn use sow Autumn Giant in a frame and treat as prescribed for Brussels sprouts. A sowing of a quick variety in heat in February will give heads in summer; they need to be kept growing all the time, and never to be checked by drought or cold or allowed to flag for want of water.

Brussels Sprouts.—In the judgment of many this is the finest all round winter vegetable, and it is worth while going to considerable trouble to grow it well. It needs good soil, plenty of nourishment, and a long growing season to bring it to perfection. Ground which has been trenched and heavily manured in the late winter will grow the best sprouts, and in large gardens it is well worth while to reserve a plot for them, off which possibly spinach, or some quick crop such as lettuce or radishes, may be gathered before May. But well consolidated rich soil is necessary to the growth of sprouts.

Where there is space and it is desired to have Brussels sprouts as early as September, a sowing should be made in mild heat at the end of January. The plants should be pricked out in a cold frame early in March and planted in their permanent position by the end of the month, choosing a well sheltered sunny bed.

There is no doubt, however, that Brussels sprouts should have a frost on them before they are really fit to eat, and the vegetable cannot, normally, be had in perfection before the middle of October. For this crop and the main crop generally sow in a frame about the second week of March, prick out four inches apart into boxes which have an inch layer of old manure at bottom and three or four inches of light rich compost on top. Harden these off gradually, keep them growing on in the open, never letting them get dry, and plant out at the end of April or the beginning of May, thirty inches apart in every direction. Beyond keeping them free from weeds, nothing more is needed, and this sowing will keep the gardener going until February, for short-jointed, well-ripened Brussels sprout plants are among the very hardiest of our winter vegetables.

If late sprouts are required, a sowing out of doors early in April will give the necessary plants for a late succession, but it is a crop that cannot be hurried or forced; Brussels sprouts must have a long growing season.

In the small garden the March sowing will be sufficient, and the plants may be put out between the rows of early potatoes. With care, we find this extremely good practice, especially if the potato ground has had a good preparation with kainit as well as manure. If the potato haulm gets too vigorous and shows signs of smothering the sprouts we lay it by hand along the ridge tops, and when the potatoes are lifted we give a dose of nitrate and tread the ground as recommended for broccoli. A further sprinkle of nitrate is given during showers in August.

BORECOLE or KALE (Brassica oleracea acephala).

This is a section of extremely hardy cabbages well calculated to withstand the hardest weather, and to provide winter greens in abundance, as well as the most delicious sprouts in spring. Indeed the side shoots which sprout forth in March are perhaps the most precious part of the yield of these subjects.

Cottagers, Scotch and Dwarf-curled Kale are perhaps the most useful varieties. The first two are taller and require more space than the last. The sowing time for all is in April; they should be sown out of doors, pricked out in a nursery bed as soon as large enough, and planted out as ground comes vacant from summer crops. The taller sorts should be put thirty inches apart, the dwarfer kinds may be in rows two feet apart and the plants twenty inches in the row, but in strong soils two feet should be a minimum distance.

The cabbage tops of the kale can be gathered at any time during the winter, and if the stumps are left in the ground many dishes of side shoots will be gathered in March.

Couve Tronchuda or Portugal Cabbage.—This is a most delicious variety, and should be sown in early April, and planted in rich soil as soon as large enough; the plants should stand at least two feet apart. Much depends on continuous growth; the plants do not come to great perfection if they suffer an undue check. In the autumn the head makes a first-rate cabbage, and the thick midribs of the larger leaves make an unusual and excellent dish if thoroughly cooked (an hour at least) and served with white sauce in the manner of seakale. This subject does not stand frost well and should be cleared off the ground by Christmas.

SAVOY CABBAGE (Brassica olerata bullata).

Savoys should be sown out of doors in April and treated as autumn cabbage. They are nearly allied to the Brussels sprouts and require some frost to bring them to perfection; they may be considered early winter cabbage.

CABBAGE DISHES.

Baked Cabbage.—(1) Boil cabbage till tender in two waters. Drain and set aside until cool, then chop finely. Mix together two beaten eggs, two tablespoonfuls of cream, a saltspoonful of salt, and a dash of paprika. Stir this into the chopped cabbage and put it into a buttered pudding dish, sprinkle bread-crumbs over the top, and bake until brown.

(2) Boil the cabbage until tender, changing the water once, drain, cut it finely, season with salt and pepper. Butter a baking dish, put in a layer of cabbage, and cover with cream or tomato sauce. Sprinkle with crumbs on the top, and bake for half an hour.

(3) Trim and quarter a head of cabbage, boil until tender in salted water to cover. Drain thoroughly, and put into a baking dish. Pour over a cupful of cream, a tablespoonful of butter. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Make a hollow in the centre and break an egg into it. Bake in the oven until the cabbage is brown and the egg set.

Steamed Cabbage.—Wash and chop up a cabbage, put it in the boilerette with salt, pepper, and an ounce of nutter. Steam for two hours.

Fricassé of Cabbage.—Boil and chop, as in the last recipe, and keep hot while you cook together in a saucepan a tablespoonful of butter and a tablespoonful of flour, stir in a cupful of hot milk, stir to a smooth sauce, when it bubbles turn into this the chopped cabbage, cook for a minute, season and serve.

Shredded Cabbage.—Cut a cabbage into shreds and put it into boiling salted water until tender, drain, and stand in a heated colander on the side of the range. Cook together two tablespoonfuls of butter and two heaped tablespoonfuls of flour, season with salt and pepper, and stir in three heaped tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, and cook, stirring constantly for just one minute. Turn the cabbage into a deep vegetable dish and pour the cheese sauce over it.

Cabbage Cream Salad.—Prepare as in the preceding recipe; after boiling cut the shreds into lengths before dropping them into cold water. Beat half a pint of cream very stiff, drain the cabbage, sprinkle lightly with salt, and stir it into the whipped cream, turning and tossing until it is thoroughly coated with the white foam. Serve at once with crackers. The cabbage should be tender and crisp for this dish.

Cabbage Soup.—Take a small onion and a little parsley and a sprig of rosemary, chop all very fine and put in a saucepan to brown, with one ounce of butter. Have ready a cabbage washed and cut finely, put the cabbage into a saucepan, add three pints of water or vegetable stock, and season with pepper and salt, and let all stew together for an hour. Boil for a quarter of an hour before serving, add one ounce of grated Parmesan cheese. Serve with croûtons of bread.

Hot Cabbage Slaw.—(1) Chop half a cabbage finely; after boiling pour over a tablespoonful of melted butter, and put into the oven. Beat together one teaspoonful of mustard and one tablespoonful of olive oil, one tablespoonful of sugar and one egg well beaten with three-quarters of a cupful of cream. Bring to the boil, season with salt and pepper, pour over the hot cabbage, and serve.

(2) Bring a cupful of vinegar to the boil, add a teaspoonful each of butter and sugar, half a teaspoonful of made mustard, salt and black pepper to taste. Pour over the cabbage which has been shredded very finely after being boiled; heat thoroughly, and serve.

(3) Boil a shredded cabbage until tender in salted water to cover. Drain thoroughly, pressing out all the liquid. Bring to the boil half a cupful of vinegar, half a tablespoonful of butter, salt and pepper to season highly. Pour over the cabbage, mix thoroughly, and serve.

(4) Mix together the beaten yolk of an egg, a saltspoonful of pepper, a cupful of cream, a tablespoonful of sugar, a teaspoonful of mustard, and one tablespoonful of lemon juice. Heat thoroughly, and when smooth and thick heat the shredded cabbage in the sauce, and serve.

Cold Slaw.—(1) Shred a white cabbage fine, and soak in ice water. Make a dressing of the whites of two hard-boiled eggs, one yolk of egg well beaten, half a cupful of olive oil, the juice of a lemon, and mustard, salt and pepper to taste. Drain the cabbage thoroughly, mix with the dressing, and serve very cold.

(2) Mix together one saltspoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of dry mustard, one tablespoonful sugar, one yolk of egg lightly beaten, three tablespoonfuls of melted butter, and three cupfuls of cream. Cook over boiling water, add gradually a quarter of a cupful of vinegar, stirring constantly, then put it by to cool. Soak the shredded cabbage in cold water until crisp, drain, dry thoroughly, mix with the dressing, and serve very cold.

(3) Soak a quart of shredded cabbage in cold water for an hour. Cook a tablespoonful each of chopped onion and celery in four tablespoonfuls of vinegar for fifteen minutes. Thicken half a cupful of boiling milk with six tablespoonfuls of cornflour, rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Take from the fire, add the yolks of two eggs well beaten. Strain the vinegar into the sauce, add a tablespoonful of butter broken into small bits, and cool. Drain the cabbage thoroughly, mix with the dressing, and serve.

(4) Shred a small cabbage, cover with cold water, and soak for an hour. Beat together two eggs and half a cupful of sour cream, add two tablespoonfuls of boiling vinegar, one tablespoonful of butter, and cook until thick. Take from the fire, season with salt and pepper, mix the drained cabbage, cool, and serve.

Cold Slaw à la Irving.—Shred a cabbage very fine. Beat three eggs, and add half a cupful of cream and milk, and a tablespoonful of melted butter. Bring to the boil four tablespoonfuls of vinegar, with half a teaspoonful of dry mustard, salt and pepper to taste. Add the egg mixture very slowly, stir constantly, pour over the cabbage, and serve very cold.

Cabbage Balls.—Make a stuffing of one cupful each of cooked rice, and lentils, and chopped boiled onion, and half a cupful of chopped nuts (peacons preferred), add salt and pepper to taste. Cover the shredded cabbage with boiling water and let stand until the leaves are soft. Cut out the midribs, and roll portions of the stuffing into the large soft pieces of the leaves. Put the rolls carefully into a buttered saucepan, add the juice of a lemon and a clove of garlic. Cook slowly for thirty minutes, drain carefully, and strain the liquid. Thicken one and a half cupfuls of the liquid with a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, the butter to be made into a ball with the flour; take from the fire; add the well-beaten yolks of four eggs, and cook over hot water until thick and smooth. Season with salt and tarragon vinegar, strain over the rolls, and serve hot.

Cabbage Pudding.—Cut a cabbage very fine and put it into a baking dish with alternate layers of bread-crumbs. Season with salt and pepper. Fill the pan with milk, and bake slowly until done, forty minutes to one hour, serve in the baking dish.

Dutch Cabbage.—Shred a white cabbage and cook it slowly for three or four hours with enough water to keep from burning. Half an hour before serving season with salt and black pepper, add a cupful of sour cream, cook slowly until the liquid is nearly absorbed, add a tablespoonful of vinegar, and serve.

Swedish Cream Cabbage.—Cook shredded cabbage for fifteen minutes in boiling water to cover. Drain, cover with milk, and add a pinch of ground mace, season with salt and pepper. Cook until the milk is boiled away, so that it barely moistens the cabbage, add a lump of butter, and serve.

Cabbage à la Flamande.—Shave fine a large red or purple cabbage. Cook slowly for fifteen minutes in boiling water, drain, and chop fine. Reheat with a tablespoonful of butter, and chopped onion. Add salt and pepper to season, a dash of powdered cloves and a tablespoonful of butter, and serve hot at once.

Cabbage à la Française.—Chop cold boiled white cabbage finely and drain, pressing out the water. Season with salt, pepper, and melted butter. Moisten with cream and two well-beaten eggs. Turn into a buttered frying pan and cook slowly until brown on the under side, place on a hot dish, and turn out.

Cabbage à la Frankfort.—Shred a cabbage, cook until soft in a little butter, add an onion stuck with cloves. Cover with boiling water and simmer for an hour. Remove the onion, add a tablespoonful of vinegar, and serve.

Cabbage à la Mackenzie.—Shred a cabbage, fine soak in ice water and drain thoroughly, and mix with cream whipped solid. Season with salt only. Surround with crackers and toasted cheese.

Cabbage à la Russe.—Slice a firm cabbage very thin, soak for half an hour in cold water, and drain, pressing out all the liquid; cover with boiling water and cook uncovered for fifteen minutes. Drain thoroughly and reheat for ten minutes with a cupful of cream, salt and pepper to season, then add a tablespoonful of butter, and serve.

Sweet and Sour Cabbage.—Shred finely, enough cabbage to fill a quart measure, and add two sour apples peeled, cored, and sliced; put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan, and when it is hissing hot add the cabbage and apples. Pour over boiling water to cover, and cook until tender. Sprinkle two tablespoonfuls of flour, season with salt and pepper, add four tablespoonfuls of brown sugar and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. If red cabbage is used, soak it in boiling water for half an hour, changing the water two or three times.

Cabbage Hearts and Peas.—Chop finely two cabbage hearts, and cook until tender. Cook separately an equal quantity of shelled peas, add a teaspoonful of chopped mint. Drain, season with salt and black pepper, and serve the cabbage piled in the middle of the dish, with a border of peas.

Chouxbraisé (Mrs. C. W. Earle’s Recipe).—Take a nice spring cabbage, split it, and wash in salt and water; put it in a saucepan of boiling water for ten minutes. Take it up, drain well on a sieve, put it into a casserole for one hour to braise, with a little butter and pepper and salt, but no stock or water.

Cabbage à la Bourgeoise.—Clean and cut up a cabbage. Fry a tablespoonful of onion in butter, add the cabbage with salt and pepper and grated nutmeg. Cook over a slow fire, turning frequently to prevent burning.

Savoy Cabbage may be treated in the same way as the common cabbage.

COUVE TRONCHUDA, OR PORTUGAL CABBAGE.—For culture, see under Cabbage.

This cabbage has a delicious flavour quite distinct from that of other cabbages.

Two dishes may be made from it: the first day, boil the heart and the outer leaves, after removing the thick white midrib, which must be reserved. Cook as any other cabbage.

Midrib of Portugal Cabbage.—Take the midribs, wash in salted water, and boil for an hour in abundance of boiling water, with a tablespoonful of salt and a tiny piece of soda. Serve as you would salad fry, with rich white sauce poured over.

CARDOON (Cynara cardunculus. Compositæ).

This is a subject requiring plenty of room, and unless particularly desired is not suited to the small garden. It is not often grown in this country, being susceptible to frost, and the taste for it being rather an acquired one.

Cardoons are best grown in the way of celery, trenches being opened in May, four or five feet distant from each other. Old manure should be dug into the bottom of the trench. The seeds may either be sown in gentle heat in pots, and the plants put out in the trenches, care being taken not to break the ball of earth, or seeds may be sown in the trenches. In the latter case they should be sown in groups of three or four, and when they are well up thinned to a single plant. On the whole we have found it better to raise the plants in a frame, but many growers prefer the other method. The plants should stand three feet apart in the trenches.

Watering must be attended to as carefully as with celery, and weeds must be kept down. Lettuces or other quick crops may be taken off the ground between the trenches, but before the summer is over the great handsome leaves will hang over a wide area.

In September blanching may begin. It is wise not to blanch too many plants at a time, as they quickly rot after they have been tied up for four or five weeks. Therefore tie and earth up a few plants weekly until the end of October. The plants are prickly, and the gardener will do well to wear gloves while handling them. First draw the leaves together and tie them with string lightly. Then swathe straw or haybands round them and make all fast with string or bast, next earth them up at one operation in the way of celery. In four weeks the plants will be ready for use. On the approach of winter lift the entire crop and store in a cool, dark, frost-free house.

CARDOON DISHES.

Plain Cardoons.—Clean and pare two or three pounds of cardoons, cut them lengthwise, and blanche them with boiling water, then throw them into cold water to make them retain their whiteness, and dry them on a clean cloth. Cut an onion and a carrot into slices, put them into a saucepan with two ounces of fresh butter, take out the carrot and onion. Mix a tablespoonful of flour into the butter, add some water to prevent it burning. As soon as the water is boiling throw in the cardoons. When done serve up hot.

Cardoons with Cheese and Sauce.—Prepare the cardoons as above, then put them one by one in a saucepan with one ounce of fresh butter. Salt them a little and add about three-quarters of an ounce of parsley, and a little Béchamel sauce, lastly add an ounce of grated cheese. Cook them thoroughly, and serve hot.

Cardoons with Oil.—Wash and string the cardoons, half boil in salted water, then plunge them into cold water. Cut them into pieces about two inches long, flour well, and put them in a saucepan with boiling pure olive oil; salt and pepper to taste. Beat up two or more eggs according to the quantity of cardoons. When they are slightly brown on both sides drain and dish them, and pour the eggs over them. Put in the oven for a few minutes till the eggs are set. Serve hot.

CARROT (Daucus carota. Umbelliferæ).

The earliest carrots should be sown in frames on a good hotbed early in November. At least four inches of a good, light, sandy compost should be placed over the surface of the bed. Many sow broadcast, thinning the plants to half an inch distance when well up. We prefer to sow in rows four inches apart, and to sow forcing radishes between, but very thinly. The radishes will be a most welcome crop, and will come in and be cleared away long before the carrots. Plenty of air and plenty of moisture must be given; on warm days the lights may be quite off the frames for an hour or two, but frost must be excluded. Thin rigorously to half an inch or rather more, and a delicious crop of young carrots will be harvested in February and March.

A second hotbed started in January will carry the cook on until the early outdoor varieties come in.

The first outdoor sowing should be of such a variety as French Horn on a warm well-drained border in February. The main crop sowings are made in April and May. The carrot does best in a sandy loam, with no recent manure in the top spit, but some good old stuff in the bottom of the trench is desirable. Sow in drills a foot apart; thin first to one inch, then draw the next lot just as they are, as thick as a finger; they will never be better; leave the rest four to six inches apart. Keep the Dutch hoe going between the rows and harvest in August or September. There is no object in keeping carrots in the ground after the tops have died down; in fact, if showery weather sets in the roots are likely to start into growth again and split and spoil. Store for winter use in sand in a cool cellar.