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Constantinople old and new

ILLUSTRATIONS

Reading edition

Sultan Mehmed II, the Conqueror Frontispiece

From the portrait by Gentile Bellini in the Layard Collection

PAGE

A Stamboul street 5

From an etching by Ernest D. Roth

Divan Yolou 9

A house in Eyoub 11

A house at Aya Kapou 12

The house of the pipe 13

That grape-vine is one of the most decorative elements of Stamboul streets 21

A waterside coffee-house 23

“Drinking” a nargileh 26

Fez-presser in a coffee-house 27

Playing tavli 29

The plane-tree of Chengel-kyöi 31

The yard of Hekim-zadeh Ali Pasha 35

“The Little Mosque” 37

From an etching by Ernest D. Roth

Entrance to the forecourt of Sultan Baïezid II 40

Detail of the Süleïmanieh 41

Yeni Jami 43

Tile panel in Rüstem Pasha 50

The mihrab of Rüstem Pasha 51

In Rüstem Pasha 52

Tiles in the gallery of Sultan Ahmed 53

The tomb of Sultan Ahmed I 57

In Roxelana’s tomb 59

The türbeh of Ibrahim Pasha 63

The court of the Conqueror 64

The main entrance to the court of Sokollî Mehmed Pasha 65

The interior of Sokollî Mehmed Pasha 67

The court of Sokollî Mehmed Pasha 69

Doorway in the medresseh of Feïzoullah Effendi 70

Entrance to the medresseh of Kyöprülü Hüsseïn Pasha 71

The medresseh of Hassan Pasha 72

St. Sophia 77

From an etching by Frank Brangwyn

The Myrelaion 83

The House of Justinian 86

The Palace of the Porphyrogenitus 90

Interior of the Studion 93

Kahrieh Jami 97

Mosaic from Kahrieh Jami: Theodore Metochites offering his church to Christ 98

Mosaic from Kahrieh Jami: the Massacre of the Innocents 101

Giotto’s fresco of the Massacre of the Innocents, in the Arena chapel, Padua 101

Mosaic from Kahrieh Jami: the Marriage at Cana 104

The Golden Gate 109

Outside the land walls 111

A last marble tower stands superbly out of the blue 112

The Golden Horn 115

From the Specchio Marittimo of Bartolommeo Prato

Lighters 118

Sandals 119

Caïques 121

Sailing caïques 122

Galleons that might have sailed out of the Middle Ages anchor there now 123

The Seven Sleepers of Ephesus 125

From a Persian miniature in the Bibliothèque Nationale

The mihrab of Pialeh Pasha 131

Old houses of Phanar 133

The outer court of Eyoub 135

Eyoub 137

The cemetery of Eyoub 141

Kiat Haneh 145

Lion fountain in the old Venetian quarter 153

Genoese archway at Azap Kapou 155

The mosque of Don Quixote and the fountain of Sultan Mahmoud I 165

Interior of the mosque of Don Quixote 167

The admiral’s flag of Haïreddin Barbarossa 169

Drawn by Kenan Bey

Grande Rue de Pera 180

The Little Field of the Dead 181

The fountain of Azap Kapou 183

Fountain near Galata Tower 185

The Kabatash breakwater 187

Fresco in an old house in Scutari 191

The Street of the Falconers 199

Fountain in the mosque yard of Mihrîmah 201

Tiles in the mosque of the Valideh Atik 203

Chinili Jami 204

The fountains of the Valideh Jedid 205

Interior of the Valideh Jedid 207

The Ahmedieh 209

Shemsi Pasha 211

The bassma haneh 213

Hand wood-block printing 215

The Bosphorus from the heights of Scutari 217

Gravestones 221

Scutari Cemetery 223

In a Turkish garden 230

A Byzantine well-head 232

A garden wall fountain 233

A jetting fountain in the garden of Halil Edhem Bey 235

A selsebil at Kandilli 236

A selsebil of Halil Edhem Bey 237

In the garden of Ressam Halil Pasha 239

The garden of the Russian embassy at Büyük Dereh 241

The upper terrace of the French embassy garden at Therapia 243

The Villa of the Sun, Kandilli 249

An eighteenth-century villa at Arnaout-kyöi 252

The golden room of Kyöprülü Hüsseïn Pasha 253

In the harem of the Seraglio 261

The “Cage” of the Seraglio 263

A Kara-gyöz poster 271

Wrestlers 275

The imperial cortège poured from the palace gate 281

From a drawing by E. M. Ashe

Baïram sweets 289

The open spaces of the Mohammedan quarters are utilised for fairs 295

Sheep-market at Yeni Jami 299

Church fathers in the Sacred Caravan 305

Housings in the Sacred Caravan 306

The sacred camel 307

The palanquin 308

Tied with very new rope to the backs of some thirty mules ... were the quaint little hair trunks 309

A Persian miniature representing the death of Ali 311

Valideh Han 313

Blessing the Bosphorus 321

The dancing Epirotes 325

Bulgarians dancing 336

Greeks dancing to the strains of a lanterna 337

The mosque and the Greek altar of Kourou Cheshmeh 348

Wall fountain in the Seraglio 354

Selsebil in Bebek 355

The goose fountain at Kazlî 356

The wall fountain of Chinili-Kyöshk 357

Shadrîvan of Kyöprülü Hüsseïn Pasha 359

Shadrîvan of Ramazan Effendi 360

Shadrîvan of Sokollî Mehmed Pasha 361

The Byzantine fountain of Kîrk Cheshmeh 365

The two fountains of Ak Bîyîk 368

Street fountain at Et Yemez 371

Fountain of Ahmed III in the park at Kiat Haneh 373

Detail of the fountain of Mahmoud I at Top Haneh 374

Fountain of Abd ül Hamid II 375

Sebil behind the tomb of Sultan Mehmed III 377

Sebil of Sultan Ahmed III 379

Cut-Throat Castle from the water 384

The castle of Baïezid the Thunderbolt 385

The north tower of the castle 387

The village boatmen and their skiffs 397

In the market-place 399

Badge of the revolution: “Liberty, Justice, Fraternity, Equality” 405

Cartoon representing the exodus of the Palace camarilla 412

Soldiers at Chatalja, April 20 428

Macedonian volunteers 437

A Macedonian Blue 439

Taxim artillery barracks, shelled April 24 441

They were, in fact, reserves posted for the afternoon attack on Tash Kîshla 443

Burial of volunteers, April 26 446

Deputies leaving Parliament after deposing Abd ül Hamid, April 27 447

Mehmed V driving through Stamboul on his accession day, April 27 451

Mehmed V on the day of sword-girding, May 10 453

Arriving from Asia 460

Reserves 461

Recruits 462

Hand in hand 463

Demonstration in the Hippodrome 465

Convalescents 480

Stuck in the mud 482

The aqueduct of Andronicus I 484

Fleeing from the enemy 485

Cholera 498

Joachim III, Patriarch of Constantinople 501

The south pulpit of the Pantocrator 503

Portrait of John VII Palæologus as one of the Three Wise Men, by Benozzo Gozzoli. Riccardi Chapel, Florence 505

Church of the All-Blessed Virgin (Fetieh Jami) 515

The lantern-bearers 517

The dead Patriarch 519

Exiles 523

Lady Lowther’s refugees 526

Peasant embroidery 532

Young Thrace 533

CONSTANTINOPLE OLD AND NEW

I, a Persian and an Ispahani, had ever been accustomed to hold my native city as the first in the world: never had it crossed my mind that any other could, in the smallest degree, enter into competition with it, and when the capital of Roum was described to me as finer, I always laughed the describer to scorn. But what was my astonishment, and I may add mortification, on beholding, for the first time, this magnificent city! I had always looked upon the royal mosque, in the great square at Ispahan, as the most superb building in the world; but here were a hundred finer, each surpassing the other in beauty and in splendour. Nothing did I ever conceive could equal the extent of my native place; but here my eyes became tired with wandering over the numerous hills and creeks thickly covered with buildings, which seemed to bid defiance to calculation. If Ispahan was half the world, this indeed was the whole. And then this gem of cities possesses this great advantage over Ispahan, that it is situated on the borders of a beautiful succession of waters, instead of being surrounded by arid and craggy mountains; and, in addition to its own extent and beauty, enjoys the advantage of being reflected in one never-failing mirror, ever at hand to multiply them.... “Oh! this is a paradise,” said I to those around me; “and may I never leave it!”

—J. J. Morier, “The Adventures of Hajji Baba of Ispahan.”

CONSTANTINOPLE OLD AND NEW

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