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An Account of Timbuctoo and Housa Territories in the Interior of Africa

FAS TO TIMBUCTOO,

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PERFORMED IN OR ABOUT THE YEAR 1787, A.C.

BY

EL HAGE ABD SALAM SHABEENY.

The Moors always prefer the spring and summer for travelling, because they suffer very much from the severe cold of the mornings in winter. They generally leave Fas in the beginning of April to proceed to Timbuctoo, and they leave Timbuctoo to return to Fas in the month of January.

The Mecca caravan takes its departure from Fas the beginning of March.

From Tafilelt, which, as before observed, is the country of the shereefs, they are guided by such of the trading shereefs as accompany the caravan, and who have always great respect paid them, till they arrive at Timbuctoo. The caravan increases as it proceeds in its journey: at Fas it consisted of about thirty or forty; at Draha, of from 300 to 400 camels. From Draha, at the distance of three days' travelling, they found water by digging, and on the next morning they entered the Sahara, which, for the first twenty days is a plain sandy desert resembling the sea. In this desert, when they pitch their tents at night, they are obliged frequently to shake the sand from their tops, as they would otherwise be overwhelmed before the morning.

Situation Of The City Of Timbuctoo.

Population.

INNS, OR CARAVANSERAS.

HOUSES.

GOVERNMENT.

REVENUE.

ARMY.

ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE.

SUCCESSION TO PROPERTY.

MARRIAGE.

A man agrees to pay a certain price to the father of his wife, and witnesses are called to support the proof of the contract: the girl is sent home, and at night a feast is made by the husband for his male friends; by the wife for her female friends.

Rape is punished by death. Adultery is not punishable by the law, nor is it a ground for divorce. A husband may always put away his wife, but if without sufficient legal ground, he must pay her stipulated dower. Abusive language is a sufficient ground of divorce, but adultery is not. The dower is the price originally agreed upon with the father; and if it has been already paid (which it seldom is), she has no further claim upon the husband, though put away without sufficient ground. Her clothes, jewels, &c. given to her by her relations are her own property. A father generally gives the daughter in jewels, &c. a present double the value of that given him by the husband. A man can have but one wife, but may keep concubines. Seduction and adultery are not cognisable by law. The law says, "a woman's flesh is her own, she may do with it what she pleases." Prostitutes are common. A man may marry his niece, but not his daughter.

The people of Timbuctoo are not circumcised.

TRADE.

Timbuctoo is the great emporium for all the country of the blacks, and even for Marocco and Alexandria.

MANUFACTURES.

PROVISIONS.

ANIMALS.

BIRDS.

FISH.

PRICES OF DIFFERENT ARTICLES.

DRESS.

Upon his turban, on the forehead, is a ball of silk, like a pear; one of the distinctions of royalty. He wears, also, a close red skull-cap, like the Moors of Tetuan, and two sashes, one over each shoulder, such as the Moors wear round the waist; they are rather cords than sashes, and are very large; half a pound of silk is used in one of them. The subjects wear but one; they are either red, yellow, or blue, made at Fas. He wears, like his subjects, a sash round the waist, also made at Fas; of these there are two kinds,--one of leather, with a gold buckle in front, like those of the soldiers in Barbary; the other of silk, like those of the Moorish merchants. He wears (as do the subjects) breeches made in the Moorish fashion, of cotton in summer, made at Timbuctoo, and of woollen in winter, brought ready made from Fas. His shoes are distinguished by a piece of red leather, in front of the leg, about three inches wide, and eight long, embroidered with silk and gold.

When he sits in his apartment, he wears a dagger with a gold hilt, which hangs on his right side: when he goes out, his attendants carry his musket, bow, arrows, and lance.

His subjects dress in the same manner, excepting the distinctions of royalty; viz. the pear, the sashes on the shoulders, and the embroidered leather on the shoes.

DIVERSIONS.

TIME.

RELIGION.

They have no temples, churches, or mosques, no regular worship or sabbath; but once in three months they have a great festival, which lasts two or three days, sometimes a week, and is spent in eating and drinking. He does not know the cause; but thinks it, perhaps, a commemoration of the king's birth-day; no work is done. They believe in a Supreme Being and another state of existence, and have saints and men whom they revere as holy. Some of them are sorcerers, and some ideots, as in Barbary and Turkey; and though physicians are numerous, they expect more effectual aid in sickness from the prayers of the saints, especially in the rheumatism. Music is employed to excite ecstasy in the saint, who, when in a state of inspiration, tells (on the authority of some departed saint, generally of Seedy Muhamed Seef,) what animal must be sacrificed for the recovery of the patient: a white cock, a red cock, a hen, an ostrich, an antelope, or a goat. The animal is then killed in the presence of the sick, and dressed; the blood, feathers, and bones are preserved in a shell and carried to some retired spot, where they are covered and marked as a sacrifice. No salt or seasoning is used in the meat, but incense is used previous to its preparation. The sick man eats as much as he can of the meat, and all present partake; the rice, or what else is dressed with it, must be the produce of charitable contributions from others, not of the house or family; and every contributor prays for the patient.

DISEASES.

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.

NEIGHBOURING NATIONS.

Girls are marriageable very young; sometimes they have children at ten years old.

JOURNEY

From

Notes in this chapter

Note 1 · Footnote 1: (return) This is a journey of crooked and rugged roads across the Atlas mountains, where they often sojourn in spots which invitNote 2 · In travelling, the Moors hire their camels from stage to stage. Shabeeny's first stage was from Fas 1 to Tafilelt, which is generally perforNote 3 · Footnote 2: (return) This charge of carriage by the camels from Fas to Tafilelt, is equal to 55s., sterling per camel; to 1-1/2d. per mile fNote 4 · Footnote 3: (return) That is for all who go from the Emperor of Marocco's dominions, north of the river Morbeya, which is called El Garb, orNote 5 · Footnote 4: (return) These mud walls are made in cases, and the mode of erecting them is called tabia. See Jackson's Account of the Empire oNote 6 · Footnote 5: (return) Hence it is called Bled Shereef, i.e. the Country of Princes.Note 7 · The hire of every camel was from ten to twelve ducats, at five shillings sterling per ducat; as this route is through a very mountainous couNote 8 · Tafilelt is the place of general meeting of all the merchants who go to Timbuctoo. 3Note 9 · The territory of Tafilelt contains no towns, but abounds in fortresses with mud-walls 4, which the natives call El Kassar, and which containNote 10 · The natives of Tafilelt are descendants of the shereefs 5 or princes of Marocco, and are therefore of the Imperial family.Note 11 · Footnote 6: (return) A province at the foot of the mountains of Atlas, south of Marocco, for which see the Map of West Barbary, in Jackson'sNote 12 · Footnote 7: (return) This date is called by the natives bouskree: it contains a larger quantity of saccharine juice than any other date. ThiNote 13 · Footnote 8: (return) A drahem is a silver coin, ten of which are equal to a Mexico dollar.Note 14 · Footnote 9: (return) Their colour is darker than new copper, but not black, It may be compared to the colour of old mahogany, with a black hNote 15 · Shabeeny's next stage was to Draha 6, which he reached in six days. The expense per camel was about six ducats, or thirty shillings sterlingNote 16 · The province of Draha is larger than that of Tafilelt, its circumference being about four or five days' journey. The natives 9 of Draha are Note 17 · Footnote 10: (return) The sheik akkabar, or chief of the accumulated caravan, is generally a shereef or prince.Note 18 · The caravans have not, as in the journey to Mecca, their sheiks 10 or commanders. From Fas to Tafilelt they had no chief, but as there are gNote 19 · Footnote 11: (return) These goat-skins, when containing water, are called by the Arabs kereb, or ghireb, plur. kerba, or ghirba, sing.Note 20 · Footnote 12: (return) The sheh is the wormseed plant, the thorny plant here alluded to is the wild myrtle.Note 21 · Footnote 13: (return) Esshume, or the hot wind. For a particular description of this extraordinary wind, see Jackson's Account of the EmpireNote 22 · Footnote 14: (return) This is old butter kept several years in a matamore, or subterraneous cavern. It is called by the Arabs of the desert,Note 23 · Some part of this desert is hard, and the camels do not sink deep into it; in others the sand is very loose, which fatigues the camels exceeNote 24 · The country on the borders of this desert, to the right and left, is inhabited by roving Arabs, at the distance of three or four days from tNote 25 · Footnote 15: (return) El Wah. For a full explanation of this term, see Jackson's Account of the Empire of Marocco, 3d edition, p. 283.Note 26 · Footnote 16: (return) Sederah, thorny shrubs of all kinds are so called.Note 27 · After passing this desert of twenty days, they enter a country which varies in its appearance, particular spots being fertile 15 (called El Note 28 · Footnote 17: (return) From Fas to Tafilelt, 20 days, for 11 ducats per camel. Tafilelt to Draha, 6 do. 6 do. do. Draha to Timbuctoo, 48 do. Note 29 · Footnote 18: (return) The expense is now (A.C. 1818) smaller, as the ducat, by a coinage which is depreciated, has fallen to 3s. 6d. sterlinNote 30 · From Akka to Timbuctoo, a journey of forty-three days, they meet with no trees, except the sederah, no rivers, towns, or huts. From Draha, wNote 31 · Footnote 19: (return) The tabia walls are thus built: They put boards on each side of the wall supported by stakes driven in the ground, or Note 32 · Footnote 20: (return) El Kibla signifies the tomb of Muhamed: in most African towns there is a Kibla-gate, which faces Medina in Arabia.Note 33 · On the east side of the city of Timbuctoo, there is a large forest, in which are a great many elephants. The timber here is very large. The Note 34 · Footnote 21: (return) That is about four miles in circumference. Tetuan contains 16,000 inhabitants; but, according to this account, TimbuctNote 35 · Footnote 22: (return) Who go there for the purposes of trade.Note 36 · The town is once and a half the size of Tetuan 21, and contains, besides natives, about 10,000 22 of the people of Fas and Marocco. The natiNote 37 · Footnote 23: (return) It is probable that Adams, the American sailor, (if he ever was at Timbuctoo,) saw one of these fondacs that belonged Note 38 · Footnote 24: (return) Ten okiat, or drahems, make a Mexico dollar. The name of the king of Timbuctoo, in 1800 A.C. was Woolo. Many of the foNote 39 · When strangers arrive they deposit their merchandise in large warehouses called fondacs; and hire as many rooms as they choose, having stablNote 40 · Footnote 25: (return) Being more convenient for the Muhamedan ablutions.Note 41 · In the houses little furniture is seen; the principal articles (those of the kitchen excepted) are beds, mats on the floor, and the carpets;Note 42 · Footnote 26: (return) A wheel similar to the Persian wheel, worked by a mule or an ass, having pots, which throw the water into a trough as Note 43 · Footnote 27: (return) The privileged class of men in Barbary, are the Fakeers; but no one in Barbary is noble but the King's relations, who Note 44 · Timbuctoo is governed by a native black, who has the title of sultan. He is tributary to the sultan of Housa, and is chosen by the inhabitanNote 45 · Footnote 28: (return) Subterraneous excavations, or rooms in the form of a cone, which have a small opening like a trap-door; when these matNote 46 · The revenue arises partly from land and partly from duties upon all articles exposed to sale. The king has lands cultivated by farmers who aNote 47 · Footnote 29: (return) Of the Brabeesh clan; see the Map.Note 48 · The troops are paid by the king of Housa, and are armed with pikes, swords, cutlasses, sabres, and muskets; the other natives use the bow anNote 49 · Footnote 30: (return) But go to the next heir.Note 50 · Footnote 31: (return) This is the written Muhamedan law: the insolvent is always liable, but cannot be arrested or imprisoned whilst he remaNote 51 · Footnote 32: (return) This is a custom derived from Muhamedan governments.Note 52 · Punishments are the bastinado, imprisonment, and fine. He recollects but one prison. If a native stabs another, he is obliged to attend the Note 53 · Footnote 33: (return) Many conscientious Muhamedans, in purchasing slaves, calculate how many years' service their purchase money is equal tNote 54 · A slave is entirely at his master's disposal, who may put him to death without trial; yet the slave may complain to the council of ill-usageNote 55 · Footnote 34: (return) The husband always stipulates to pay the father of his wife a certain sum: this is the Muhamedan dower.Note 56 · Upon the decease of a native, the first claim is that of his creditors; the next is that of his widow, who is entitled to the dower 34 promiNote 57 · Footnote 35: (return) Kameema is the Arabic word for the linen called plattilias. They are worth 50 Mexico dollars each, at Timbuctoo.Note 58 · Footnote 36: (return) Called, in Amsterdam, Velt Spiegels, and in Timbuctoo, Murrâih de juah.Note 59 · Footnote 37: (return) This salt is bought at Tishet, at Shangareen, and at Arawan, in the south part of Sahara; for which see the Map of NorNote 60 · Footnote 38: (return) Okia is the Arabic name for this piece of money.Note 61 · Footnote 39: (return) Similar to the corn-market at Mogodor.Note 62 · Footnote 40: (return) The m'hoad is no longer used in Barbary. There is a krube, of which sixteen are equal to a saa, which, when filled witNote 63 · The principal articles of merchandise are tobacco, kameemas 35, beads of all colours for necklaces, and cowries, which are bought at Fas by Note 64 · Footnote 41: (return) Telissa, sing.; Telisse, plur.Note 65 · Footnote 42: (return) To Fas they are brought from England through Gibraltar and Mogodor.Note 66 · Footnote 43: (return) Leather is also imported from Marocco, and from Terodant in South Barbary.Note 67 · Footnote 44: (return) Wooden combs are imported from Marseilles to Mogodor.Note 68 · The black natives are smiths, carpenters, shoemakers, tailors, and masons, but not weavers. The Arabs in the neighbourhood are weavers, and Note 69 · Footnote 45: (return) El Bishna. This is the Arabic name for Indian corn.Note 70 · Footnote 46: (return) Allila, a species of millet.Note 71 · Footnote 47: (return) A wheel similar to the Persian wheel, as before described in the note, page 13.Note 72 · The country is well cultivated, except on the side of the desert. They have rice, el bishna 45, and a corn which they call allila 46, but inNote 73 · Footnote 48: (return) And also from Marocco.Note 74 · Footnote 49: (return) El Hashisha. This is the African hemp plant: it is esteemed for the extraordinary and pleasing voluptuous vacuity of mNote 75 · Rice is their principal food, but the rich have wheaten flour from Fas 48, and make very fine bread, which is considered a luxury. Bread is Note 76 · Footnote 50: (return) These horses are the desert horse, or the shrubat er'reeh. See Jackson's Marocco, 2d or 3d edition, p. 94. to 96.Note 77 · Footnote 51: (return) These are El Heirie, (or Erragual), for a particular description of which see Jackson's Marocco, p. 91. to 93.Note 78 · Footnote 52: (return) A distance of upwards of 1200 British miles.Note 79 · Goats are very large, as big as the calves in England, and very plentiful; sheep are also very large. Cattle are small; many are oxen. Milk Note 80 · Footnote 53: (return) The starling.Note 81 · They have common fowls, ostriches, and a bird larger than our blackbird 53; also storks, which latter are birds of passage, and arrive in thNote 82 · Footnote 54: (return) The shebbel, a species of salmon, a very delicate fish, but so rich that it is best roasted, which the Arabs do in a sNote 83 · They have many extremely good in the Nile; one of the shape and size of our salmon 54; the largest of these are about four feet long. They uNote 84 · Footnote 55: (return) Cowries are called El Uda, and are sold in Santa Cruz and in South Barbary, at twenty Mexico dollars per quintal.Note 85 · Footnote 56: (return) Called Ujuh.Note 86 · Footnote 57: (return) Probably from the coast of Guinea, with which Housa carries on an extensive trade.Note 87 · Footnote 58: (return) i.e. Guinea; Genawa being the Arabic name for the coast of Guinea.Note 88 · Sheep from ten to sixteen cowries. Cowries 55 are much valued, and form an ornament of head-dress even for the richest women; they are highlNote 89 · Footnote 59: (return) i.e. Bengal.Note 90 · Footnote 60: (return) A caftan, or coat, with wide sleeves, no collar, but that buttons all down before.Note 91 · Footnote 61: (return) It is not the cotton cloth which comes from Bengal that is named Juliba, but the fashion or the cut of it.Note 92 · Footnote 62: (return) The Moorish fashion.Note 93 · The sultan wears a white turban of very fine muslin, the ends of which are embroidered with gold, and brought to the front; this turban comeNote 94 · Footnote 63: (return) Equal to from two to thirty Mexico dollars.Note 95 · Footnote 64: (return) They are manufactured at Marocco.Note 96 · The sultana wears a caftan, open in front from top to bottom, under this a slip of cotton like the kings, an Indian shawl over the shouldersNote 97 · Footnote 65: (return) The Aoudad; for a particular description of which, see Jackson's Marocco, Chapter V., Zoology, p. 84.Note 98 · Footnote 66: (return) The Gazel, or Antelope, outruns at first the greyhound; but after running about an hour the greyhound gains on him.Note 99 · The king has 500 or 600 horses; his stables are in the inclosure; the saddles have a peak before, but none behind. He frequently hunts the aNote 100 · Footnote 67: (return) The hour is an indefinite term, and assimilates to our expression of a good while; it is from half an hour by the dialNote 101 · They measure time 67 by days, weeks, lunar months, and lunar years; yet few can ascertain their age.Note 102 · Footnote 68: (return) Probably the itch, called El Hack in Barbary.Note 103 · Footnote 69: (return) The physicians have a very superior and general knowledge of the virtues of herbs and plants.Note 104 · The winds of the desert produce complaints in the stomach, cured by medicine. They have professed surgeons and physicians. The bite of a snaNote 105 · Footnote 70: (return) A decoction of the herb henna produces a deep orange die. It is used generally by the females on their hands and feet:Note 106 · The nails and palms of the hands are stained red with henna 70, cultivated there: the Arabs tatoo their hands and arms, but not the people oNote 107 · Footnote 71: (return) North of the town.Note 108 · Footnote 72: (return) All true Muhamedans are circumcised, so that they must partake of Paganism if uncircumcised.Note 109 · There are no Arabs between Timbuctoo and the Nile; they live on the other side 71, and would not with impunity invade the lands of these peoNote 110 · Footnote 73: (return) Called El Belûte. These acorns are much prized by the Muhamedans, and are considered a very wholesome fruit.Note 111 · Footnote 74: (return) The word hellue, in Arabic, which signifies literally, sweet, here implies that the water was pure and good.Note 112 · Footnote 75: (return) See Jackson's Marocco, page 314, 2d or 3d edition.Note 113 · Shabeeny, after staying three years at Timbuctoo, departed for Housa: and crossing the small river close to the walls, reached the Nile in t
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