Front matter

Transcriber's Notes: 1. The first page of Chapter VIII: the last line of text was partially missing, and a best guess was made on a few words. 2. Page 72: Typograpical error, 'nndertaking' changed to 'undertaking'. 3. Page 55, paragraph starting "Santa Anna', corrected 'past' to 'part'.

Chicago: Belford, Clarke & Co., Publishers,

DEDICATION

TO THE FRIENDS in many climes and countries, of the white and coloured races, and of every grade in society, who have made our year of travel a year of happiness, these pages are dedicated by the ever grateful Author

PREFACE.

This volume needs no elaborate preface. A general sketch of the voyage which it describes was published in the 'Times' immediately after our return to England. That letter is reprinted here as a convenient summary of the 'Sunbeam's' performances. But these prefatory lines would indeed be incomplete if they did not contain a well-deserved tribute to the industry and accuracy of the author. The voyage would not have been undertaken, and assuredly it would never have been completed, without the impulse derived from her perseverance and determination. Still less would any sufficient record of the scenes and experiences of the long voyage have been preserved had it not been for her painstaking desire not only to see everything thoroughly, but to record her impressions faithfully and accurately. The practised skill of a professional writer cannot reasonably be expected in these simple pages, but their object will have been attained if they are the means of enabling more home-keeping friends to share in the keen enjoyment of the scenes and adventures they describe.

THOMAS BRASSEY

View full size illustration.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER PAGE

I. Farewell to Old England 1

II. Madeira, Teneriffe, and Cape de Verde Islands 13

III. Palma to Rio de Janeiro 33

IV. Rio de Janeiro 46

V. The River Plate 67

VI. Life on the Pampas 81

VII. More about the Argentine Republic 97

VIII. River Plate to Sandy Point, Straits of Magellan 111

IX. Sandy Point to Lota Bay 134

X. Chili 155

XI. Santiago and Valparaiso 177

XII. Valparaiso to Tahiti 194

XIII. The South Sea Islands 211

XIV. At Tahiti 227

XV. Tahiti to Sandwich Islands—Kilauea by Day and by Night 265

XVI. Hawaiian Sports 275

XVII. Honolulu—Departure for Japan 291

XVIII. Honolulu to Yokohama 303

XIX. Yokohama 316

XX. Kioto, late Miaco 333

XXI. The Inland Sea 353

XXII. To Canton up the Pearl River 376

XXIII. From Macao to Singapore 392

XXIV. Singapore 408

XXV. Ceylon 426

XXVI. To Aden 443

XXVII. Via Suez Canal 456

XXVIII. 'Home' 473

APPENDIX 489

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

WOODCUTS IN TEXT.

Cape Brassey: Smyth's Sound Title-page

Portrait of the Author v

Sunset on Southampton Water 1

Nearly Overboard 5

The Derelict 'Carolina' laden with Port Wine 9

Our First View of Madeira 13

Madeira Fish-carrier 17

A Cozy Corner 22

A Palm-tree in a Garden, Orotava, Teneriffe 31

Tarafal Bay, St. Antonio 37

Father Neptune 39

His Doctor (Crossing the Line) 40

Lulu and her Puppies 41

Vespers 42

Botafogo Bay 46

The Slave Village, Fazenda, Santa Anna 56

The Three Navigators 67

Prairie Dogs and Owls 77

Devil's Horns 84

La Calera 87

Indians at Azul 104

Lassoing Horses 106

'Monkshaven' on Fire 112

Shipwrecked Crew coming on Board 115

Fuegian Weapons 127

Fuegian Bow and Arrows 129

Pin for fastening Cloak, Made from a Dollar beaten out 131

Fuegian Boat and Oars 132

Bartering with Fuegians 135

Thornton Peaks 137

Glaciers, Snowy Sound 139

Unfit Bay 144

Two-peaked Mountain 145

Indian Reach 147

Catching Cape-Pigeons in the Gulf of Peñas 153

Chilians waiting for the Train 164

A Fellow Passenger 167

Baths of Cauquenes 171

Up the Valley towards the Andes 173

Cacti of the Cordillera 174

Huasso Huts 175

Huasso of Chili 176

Morning Mass at Santiago 177

What makes Horses go in Chili 181

Juvenile Scrubbers 195

Conversation at Sea 197

Inscription from Easter Island 204

Tatakotoroa or Clarke Island 208

Going up the Mast in a Chair 209

Children looking up 209

Our First Landing in the South Pacific, Hao or Bow Island 214

Maitea 220

Maitea 220

Maitean Boatman 221

Quarantine Island, Papeete 226

Under the Trees, Papeete 227

Chætodon Tricolor 229

Chætodon Plagmance 232

Waterfall at Faataua 235

A Tahitian Lady 247

Tropic Feathers 251

Chætodon Besantii 253

Tattoo in the Tropics 256

Feather Necklace 279

War Necklace 283

Ancient War Masks and Costumes from the Museum at Honolulu 284

Chalcedon Imperator 287

Feathered Cloak and Helmets 294

The Pali-Oahu 295

Zeus Ciliaris 301

Amateur Navigation 308

Little Redcap 313

Japanese Boats 315

Fujiyama, Japan 316

A Drag across the Sand in a Jinrikisha 327

Inoshima by a Japanese Artist 328

Japanese Boatman 329

Facsimile of our Luncheon Bill 330

A Family Group 338

Wayside Travellers 349

Arrima. The Village of Bamboo Basket Work 357

The Yacht on Fire 360

Yoken San or Sacred Mountain, Inland Sea 363

Hurusima, Inland Sea 364

How we were boarded by Chinese and dispersed them 371

Chinese Visiting Cards 377

Pearl River 379

Bogue Forts 381

Chinese Pagoda and Boats 382

The French Consulate, Canton 389

Chinese Foot and Boot 398

Maharajah of Johore's House 414

The Pet Manis 417

Malacca 419

How the Journal was written 423

Peacock Mountain, Ceylon 439

Soumali Indian, Aden 451

Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb 457

Beating up the Red Sea 462

Homeward Bound 473

Faldetta, Malta 475

Armoury in the Governor's Palace, Valetta 477

Tangier 482

Vasco da Gama 484

Belem Cloister Gardens 485

Our Welcome back off Hastings 487

Home at Last 488

NOTE.

I have to thank Mr. W. Simpson, author of 'Meeting the Sun,' for the passages given on pages 341 to 343 referring to the Japanese temples and their priesthood.

The vessel which has carried us so rapidly and safely round the globe claims a brief description. She was designed by Mr. St. Clare Byrne, of Liverpool and may be technically defined as a screw composite three-masted topsail-yard schooner. The engines, by Messrs. Laird, are of 70 nominal or 350 indicated horse-power, and developed a speed of 10.13 knots at the measured mile. The bunkers contain 80 tons of coal. The average daily consumption is 4 tons, and the speed 8 knots in fine weather. The principal dimensions of the hull are—length for tonnage, 157 ft.; beam extreme, 27 ft. 6 in.; displacement tonnage, 531 tons; area of midship section, 202 sq. ft.

A. B.

Sunset on Southampton Water View full size illustration.