Chapter III · ARRIVAL AT MORZOUK. (continued 2)

Cowries, or shells, are the current money of Kashna, and all the towns westward: 2000 is the exchange for a dollar. By way of showing their comparative value, it may be mentioned, that a fowl costs five shells, a sheep 600, and a bullock 2500. Corn, rice, and, indeed, all the necessaries of life, are very cheap in Soudan. Rice is purchased at one dollar for 3 cwt. Bullocks are used to carry burthens, and to bring the grain home from the fields. The asses are fine animals, the camels scarce, and dear in some parts.

The people are excellent workers in wood and leather, which they prepare equally well as Europeans, dying it of very fine colours, and sometimes glazing it. Pillows, bags, sandals, jars, and even boxes of leather are brought by the Kafflés, and sold very cheap. Bowls composed of wood, or gourds, are finely carved, and much sought after by the Fezzan traders.

The women make very fine cotton cloth of gay patterns (having generally a great proportion of blue), and of firm texture; but it is remarkable that they never exceed in breadth three inches. Shirts made of these cloths are so very neatly sewed, that it is impossible at first sight to discover the seams.

The natives of Soudan are very ignorant; the few among them who can read find it their interest to make a great display of their knowledge. A man who reads is always respected, and becomes a person of great consideration; his presence being frequently sought for at a high price at births or marriages, in order to prevent the attendance of the devil, who immediately flies from a man capable of reading from the Koran. The power of writing charms, or saffis, is a sure step to riches.

About half the population on the banks of the Nil are Mohammedans in outward forms, but are unacquainted with every part of their religion except the prayers; some, indeed, are quite ignorant even of these, and only acknowledge the unity of God and the excellence of the Prophet. The other half are Pagans. Some nations have no idea of worship, or of a Supreme Being; others pray to the devil; and many are idolaters, and pay homage to any striking object in nature.

All the nations south of the Waters are said to be unbelievers, and to live in a state of nature, resembling in their appearance, manners, and habitations, wild beasts rather than men.

The Moslems have a greater share of superstition and vices than those they call their blind neighbours, and seldom undertake any thing without being first fortified by charms. They are constantly fancying themselves bewitched, attribute every unpleasant occurrence to Iblis; and are so fearful of the “Evil Eye,” that they adopt many strange precautions to avert its baneful effects.

In justice to the poor unenlightened beings whom they make their prey, I must say that I never witnessed such innocence, tenderness, and mildness as most of them evince when brought to Morzouk, particularly at the death of any of their companions in adversity. On these occasions they do not, like their persecutors, scream and make an insincere wailing; but sit silent and in tears, and often refuse their little allowance of food. Should one of the females fall sick, the others nurse, feed, comfort, and very often give up the whole of their scanty meal to the sufferer. I speak merely of the women, for the men are not blessed with very kind hearts; and it would be considered by them as disgraceful to betray any soft and tender feeling. Should a woman have an infant belonging to her, each of her companions in turn will carry and endeavour to amuse it. The women very seldom become sullen, and are lively without being at all boisterous or noisy; they are clean in their persons, very fond of ornaments, tractable and easily taught; but in acquiring knowledge they unfortunately lose much of their native simplicity.

Kashna to Sakkatoo.

West.

Kashna to Zumma 1 day.

Zumma to Kalawa 3

Kalawa to Gadaya ½

Gadaya to Kararee 2 days.

Kararee to Tekamoorāfa 2

Tekamoorāfa to Sakkatoo 1

Total 9½ days.

Two days farther west is Kebbi; half a day from which is a large town called Bodinga.

Kashna to Gooberr five or six days west by south. This is a principal Fellāta town, and was for some years the residence of their Sultan. The houses are built in streets, surrounded by a wall, and the adjacent country is very fine. Three days east-north-east of Kashna is Tessawa, a town.

From Kashna into Bornou.

East.

Kashna to Sabongaree 1 day.

Sabongaree to Roma 1

Roma to Beshi 1

Beshi to Kanno 1

Kanno is fourteen days from Birnie; it is governed by a Sultan, and is a town of note.

North.

Kashna to Gayzaa 1 day.

Gayzaa to Zakari 1

Zakari to Ringhem 1

Here is a river of the same name, which comes from the countries south of Kashna.

East.

Ringhem to Gongā 1 day.

Gongā to Mayga 1 producing many dome dates.

Mayga to Awyek 1

Awyek to Kattagum 1

Here the Nil, Goulbi, or Kattagum, passes from behind Kashna about thirteen days south. It runs north-east at this place, and must be crossed.

East.

Kattagum to Zoomawa 1 day.

Zoomawa to Gizzra ½

Gizzra to Ibrahim Zubbo ½

There is a tribe of Arabs here whose dwelling-place is called Bled Ibrahim Zubbo, from the Sheikh who first established them as a tribe. They are dark men without the negro features.

North.

Ibrahim Zubbo to Dowrā. 1 day.

Dowrā to Kalāwa 1

East.

Kalāwa to Shackow 1 day.

Shackow to Bayankalāwa 1

Bayankalāwa to Demetro 1

Kashna is four days east of Zanfara. To the north-east of Kashna three days is a country (not a town) called Daura. The natives are Kaffirs, very numerous, and constantly preyed on by the Fellata. Kebbi is three days north-east of Bakkanee, the chief town of Noofy. Kooka (the Cauga of the maps) is thirty days east by south of Kashna; it is much exposed to the incursions of the people of Waday. Kanno is four days east of Kashna, from which town Zegzeg is four or five days south-west. Yagooba is six days south of the latter place. Yemyem is the Lamlam of the maps. The inhabitants are reputed to be cannibals, and from a circumstance which came under my notice, I have no doubt they are so. A friend of mine had a male slave who came from that country, and who was about ten years of age. I desired a person, who spoke a language understood by the boy, to ask him, as if undesignedly, which part of a man was considered to taste best in his country. He immediately and readily answered, “The breast, which is eaten by the men; the other parts being given to the women and children.” But on further questioning him, it appeared he did not know whether the victims were prisoners or natives.

This country joins Zegzeg to the southward; it is of great extent, and the people are reported to live in a state of nature. Yagooba borders on Yemyem, six days south of Zegzeg. Marādi is a country lying half-way between Kashna and Gooberr, now nearly depopulated by the constant attacks of the Fellāta. The natives are Kaffirs, and go naked, with the exception of a leather wrapper round their loins. They are a very handsome race of people. Tirka in Soudan appears not to be known. There is a watering place of the Tibboo in Borgoo, called Tirki.

Tuat is mentioned in many maps as a town; but it is a large tract of country on the borders of Soudan, inhabited chiefly by Tuarick. It is situated on the Great Desert, and is not very fertile. Fine horses are bred there, and the flocks are numerous. The natives trade with Tembuctoo, Soudan, Ghadams, and Fezzan, but seldom go so far east as Bornou. The chief length of the country is from north to south, and the towns bear very nearly in that direction to each other. The houses are built of stone and mud, and have no second story; many of the towns are walled. Ain el Salah, or the Fountain of Saints, is the principal town. It takes its name from the sanctity of its inhabitants, who have all the credit of being Marāboots. A story is told of its having 366 castles, which were built by the first Mohammedan conquerors of the country; they are said to be of a great height and in fine preservation. I suspect, however, they are pretty nearly of the same description as those of Fezzan, of which we heard so many wonderful accounts, and which proved to be only mud tombs, or remains of old houses. From Morzouk to this place is about forty days’ journey.

West.

In Fezzan ⎰ ⎱ Morzouk to Tessowa 1 day. Town and old castle.

Tessowa to Oubāri 2 Town.

Oubāri to Haghki 2 Resting place.

Haghki to Kaïbo 4 do.

Kaïbo to Bengheh 6 do.

Bengheh to Doukaraat 2 do.

Doukaraat to Tadera 5 do.

Tadera to Amaghi 7 do.

Amaghi to Temadraati 3 do.

Temadraati to Houhaned 1½ do.

Houhaned to Oonabraghri 4 do.

Oonabraghri to Ain el Sala 2 Town in Tuat.

Between Tadera and Amaghi is a desert, which is travelled eight days without water. All the road is sand without any other vegetation than a few occasional shrubs, from Morzouk to Ain el Sala, which is the northern town in Tuat, and the first reached by all the Kafflés from the coast of Morocco. Tafilet is ten days north-west of it. Tombuctoo, or Tembuctoo, is fifty days from Ain el Sala, and the road is entirely over a desert. The first place from Ain el Sala is Akably, a very large town, which is two days. From thence to Mabrook is thirty-five days: this place is so called from its being the custom for those who have passed the Desert to rest and refresh there, each congratulating the other on having safely arrived over their perilous road, by the usual salutation of “Mabrook,” which signifies joy or happiness. Hence to Tembuctoo is fifteen days. Ghadams, belonging to the Bashaw of Tripoli, is twenty days north-north-west of Ain el Sala.

Tembuctoo is about 90 days’ journey from Morzouk, and the road thence is through Tuat. From the account given by merchants, it appears that it is not so large a town as has been imagined; and indeed some agree in saying, that it is not more extensive than Morzouk. It is walled; the houses are very low, and with the exception of one or two small streets, are built irregularly. Huts of mats seem to be in greater numbers than the houses.

The merchants to whom I suggested the idea, generally agreed with me, that the immense population which is said to exist there, may be thus accounted for. Many of the kafflés from Morocco, Ghadams, Tripoli, and the Negro states along the banks of the Nil, are obliged to remain there during the rainy season, or until their goods are sold. During their stay, they find it necessary to build huts or houses, to shelter themselves and their merchandise. These buildings are got up in a few days; and thus, perhaps, ten or fifteen thousand inhabitants may, in the course of a month, be added to the population, which occasions Tembuctoo to be thought an immense town by those who are only there at the same time as other strangers; but when the causes which detain the travellers cease, the place appears (what in reality it is said to be) insignificant. Thus it is that the accounts of it differ so much.

Kabra, which is its port, is situated south of it about 12 miles, and a person on foot may easily walk to and return from it in a day. It is more properly a collection of store-houses than a town; the few people residing there being employed to take care of the cargoes of vessels. Large boats from Jenne come and unload at this place. The river, called Goulbi or Nil (the former name is Soudan, merely a generic term for all waters, and by no means applicable to the Niger alone), is here very broad, and flows slowly past from the westward. Many people agree in saying, that in the dry season, a camel may pass over it without swimming; but after the rains, it becomes very deep, rapid, and dangerous.

Tembuctoo is governed by a King or Sultan, who has but little power. The people are all blacks, and dress like the natives of many parts of Soudan; the better class in shirts and trowsers, while the poorer order are nearly naked. Gold, cotton clothes, leather, and arms, are the principal manufactures of Tembuctoo and the surrounding villages. Jenne is said to be the place from which gold comes, and is thence called Bledd el Tibbr بلد التبر, or the country of gold.

I could obtain no account of Mr. Park, but every one agreed that it would be quite impossible (the buildings being so small and ill constructed) for him or any other white man to be confined in the town unknown to the traders, who enter every house, not excepting that of the Sultan himself. This, I think, entirely confutes the idea that Mr. Park has been, or is still confined by the Sultan, on account of his skill in surgery; and there is equal reason to doubt his being in existence, which some have supposed. Many Jews trade from Morocco, which, as they differ from the Mohammedans in their customs, has given rise to the report that there are Christians in the country; they are said to be circumcised, eat no pork, kill their animals in a peculiar way, and neither acknowledge Christ nor Mohammed. A nation of these people is said to exist south of Tembuctoo, the language of which place is peculiar to itself,—though Arabic is a little spoken; the people are regarded as good Moslems.

Language of Tembuctoo.

Man Ahinda.

Woman Afintoo.

Boy Aberry.

Girl Aterry.

Hand Akhood.

Head Agodi.

Iron Azeli.

Eye Aiti.

Ass Ehaid.

Camel Elgimmo.

Goat Egghsi.

Sheep Taili.

Gold Agreef dodi.

Pillow Kote.

Corn Attow.

Tree Esheri.

Wood Esheri.

Water Ami.

Fire Ofi.

God Allah.

House Bactoo.

Town Agherri.

Heaven Engi.

Father Abbi.

Mother Emmi.

Brother Kati.

Sister Aghotoo.

Grandfather Ajeddi.

Friend Sehhi.

I understand Foni.

I do not Mofedi.

Sun Ofitti.

Moon Hitti.

Meat Taasoo.

Flesh Hamo.

Horse Aïs.

Cow Abari.

Sweet Zaidi.

Milk Alebbi.

Mat Boshti.

Carpet Fershit.

Foot Edthi.

Leg Edthair.

Beard Heti.

Nose Hoshti.

River Bori.

Eat Tay.

Drink Ushti.

Walk Kaedodi.

Sleep Auti.

Come Ka.

Go Dodi.

Bad Ferri.

Large Koti.

Small Katch.

Heavy Toozi.

Mouth Fetti.

Light Afi.

Arm Eghrai.

Belly Teddis.

Back Kerri.

Neck Terri.

Nipples Foffi

Fingers Beddi.

I Anikikki.

You Ani looloo.

He Hooti.

Here the intelligence of my informant ceased.

The King of Tembuctoo is an old man, named Kaoo, which, I believe, means governor or master; his wife is an old woman, and he has many concubines. The Sultanship is hereditary.—Tembuctoo is distant from Downa, a large town or district on the banks of the Nil, one day and a half east. Arowan is north of the city seven days, and is a place of consequence. Ezawen is east twenty days, and is also a large town. Taudenny, from whence the large kafflés, who bring rock salt, come annually, is twenty-four days north of Tembuctoo. Telemsen, which is twelve days north of the latter, or indeed half-way to Taudenny, is remarkable for a desert, having no water for ten days; thence called Asherïa. Mabrook is three days north of this place, ten days south of Taudenny, seven days east of Arowan, and eighteen days south of Awlef in Tuat.

Sala is a place three days from Tembuctoo, on the Nil to the eastward.

The Nil, Goulbi, Joliba or Kattagum, runs from Tembuctoo, through Melli in the country of the Fellata; thence to Kebbi, which is three days north of Nooffy: past this place or country, it runs to Yaowri, which is seven days east; from thence to Fendah, a Fellāta country S.W. of Kashna, which latter kingdom it passes at thirteen days south of the capital. It again makes its appearance at Kattagum, four days W.S.W. of the capital of Bornou, where it runs into a lake, called the Tsaad. Beyond this lake, a large river runs through Baghermee, and is called the Gambarro and Kamadakoo; the word Nil being also used for the same stream.—Thus far are we able to trace the Nil, and all other accounts are merely conjectural. All agree, however, that by one route or other, these waters join the great Nile of Egypt, to the southward of Dongola.

Wangara is a place of which we cannot obtain any decided account; it is, however, generally supposed to be a low country, and sometimes inundated. One person states it to be twenty days south of Tembuctoo; another places it south of Kashna; and many even assert, that it is beyond Waday: but it is quite impossible from the varied accounts given of it, to form any idea as to its actual situation, or even existence.

Should there really be three places so called, may it not be probable that it is a general name for marshes and swamps? In the one spoken of behind Tembuctoo, the capital is said to be Battagoo, and is a large town, near which much gold is reported to be found. An invisible nation, according to our informant, inhabit near this place, and are said to trade by night. Those who come to traffic for their gold, lay their merchandise in heaps, and retire. In the morning, they find a certain quantity of gold dust placed against every heap, which, if they think sufficient, they leave the goods; if not, they let both remain until more of the precious ore is added. These traders in gold dust are by many supposed to be devils, who are very fond of red cloth, the favourite article of exchange. I cannot conceive Arabs to be the merchants, for assuredly they would, least of all people, refrain from stealing the gold thus temptingly placed in their view.

Haousa, Soudan or Afnoo, may be comprehended between Kanno, which is four days east of Kashna, and the borders of Tembuctoo. It appears, that the name only extends to the country which runs east and west, near the great river; for Aghades, which is north of Kashna, is not in Soudan: neither is Yemyem, which is south.

Soudan is an Arabic word, signifying the black country; and is also named by them Ber el Abeed بار البيد or “Land of Slaves;” but the natives all agree in calling it Haousa, which has been mistaken for a town. The language of the country, of which I shall give a specimen, is called by the people, “Haousa Tongue.”

Always Koollum.

All Doka.

Afterwards Zoōashan.

Ass Jackee.

Antelope Baraiwa.

Arm Dumsi.

A fly Koodda.

Arrow Kibbia.

Alive Derrai.

Asleep Bershi.

Butter Mai Ferri.

Bad Moogoo.

Bread Korāsa.

Boil Taffasa.

Bucket Googa.

Boy Yaroo.

Bowl Akooshee.

Bring Kaoo.

Bone Kushēe.

Beads Doosi.

Better Yafi.

Burn Jugrinica.

Black Bekki.

Breast Gubba.

Belly Shikki.

Blood Jinni.

Basket Sanfoo.

Before Dowree.

Brother Kani.

Bull Sania.

Bird Soonsoo.

Book Littafi.

Bitter Deddāshi.

Beat Boogga.

Buy Saïya.

Beard Gaymi.

Blue Dafoa.

Brass Jankerfi.

Blacksmith Mekeri.

Bag Jekka.

Box Sandook.

Come Yaka.

Crest of hair Doka.

Cry Ikooka.

Cold Daree.

Corn Elcamma.

Camel Rakomie.

Cow Sania.

Cotton Abdiga.

Copper Jankērfi.

Check Komatoo.

Cat Fatoo.

Country Garee.

Chin Habba.

Clean Fittatai.

Don’t Kaddakai.

Do this Kai.

Drink Isha.

Dance Eewassa.

Drunk Iasha Gheea.

Don’t go Kadda Kattafi.

Don’t cry Kaddakai Kooka.

Day Rana.

Door Kofa.

Dirty Dowda.

Dates Dibino.

Daughter Ia.

Dog Karre.

Die Meteshey.

Date tree Kershemi.

Dry Kaikasusshi.

Deaf Korma.

Eye Iddo.

Ear Koonnēh.

Eggs Koi.

Enough Iaisi.

Earth Kassa.

Eunuch Baba.

Elephant Gheewas.

Eat Ishee.

Fire Oota.

Fear Kai sooro.

Fat Kibba.

Flesh Nāma.

Fingers Fershi.

Fall Yafādi.

Forget Namanshi.

Face Fiska.

Friend Abokee.

Fish Keevi.

Fowl Kazā.

&c. &c.

1 Daya.

2 Bïoo.

3 Okoo.

4 Fooddoo.

5 Bïat.

6 Shidda.

7 Bokkoi.

8 Tokkos.

9 Tara.

10 Goma.

11 Goma shadaya.

&c.

100 Daree.

1000 Doobboo.

From 20 to 100 are as in Arabic:—

Asherin, Thalateen, Erbain, &c.

Bornou is comprehended between Kanno and Baghermee. The people of Waday bring dried fish from a large river to the East of Baghermee to Wara, the capital.

I did not find any one who knew any thing of Solan, Berissa, Tirka, Gana, or Noro. People are said to go constantly from Noofy to the Great Sea, to trade with the Whites, and they even bring back crockery ware, powder, brandy, and arms. One of our informants went so far as to assert, that there were one or two people there who understood the language of the Whites. I must observe, that from Kanno to Zegzeg the road is dry even in winter; but in summer in many places the country is covered with water, which for forty days gives it the appearance of a great lake. Our present informant, an observing man, said that he saw no rivers flowing there; but the water which was “sleeping” came, as he supposed, from the Nil of Kashna. He remained trading in Zegzeg until the inundation was over, and made some great bargains. For seven yards of red cloth, resembling baize, he purchased nine females, three of whom he showed to me; they were grown up girls, and very handsome, taken from Yagooba.