ILLUSTRATIONS

Bush Negroes of Dutch Guiana Frontispiece

FACING PAGE

In Buenos Aires I became “office-boy” to the American consul general 32

The new Argentine capitol building in Buenos Aires 32

A Patagonian landscape 33

The government ferry to Choele Choel Island, in the Rio Negro of southern Argentine 33

A rural policeman of the Argentine 48

My travels in Patagonia were by rail and in what the Argentino calls a “soolky” 48

A typical “boliche” town of the Argentine pampa, and some of its inhabitants 49

A family of Santiago del Estero 49

A woman of Córdoba, mate bowl in hand 64

Even a lady would not look unladylike in the bombachas of southeastern South America 64

The highway over the Andes into Chile was filled with snow 65

A bit of the transandean highway in the wintry month of May 65

At last I came out high above the famous “Christ of the Andes” in a bleak and arid setting 80

The “Lake of the Inca” just over the crest in Chile 80

On the way down I passed many little dwellings tucked in among the boulders 81

The stream that had trickled from under the snows at the summit had grown to a considerable river, watering a fertile valley 81

The street cars of Chile are of two stories and have women conductors 96

Talcahuano, the second harbor of Chile, is only a bit less picturesque than Valparaiso 96

The central plaza of Concepción, third city of Chile 97

Valdivia, in far southern Chile, is one of the few South American cities built of wood, even the streets being paved with planks 97

Countrymen of southern Chile in May to September garb 112

A woman of the Araucanians, the aborigines of southern Chile 112

A monument in the cemetery of Montevideo 113

A gentleman of Montevideo depicts in stone his grief at the loss of his life’s companion 113

A rural railway station in Uruguay 128

The fertile Uruguayan plains in the Cerro Chato (Flat Hills) district 128

x“Pirirín” and his cowboys at an estancia round-up in northern Uruguay 129

Freighting across the gentle rolling plains of the “Purple Land” 129

A gaucho of Uruguay 132

A rural Uruguayan in full Sunday regalia 133

An ox-driver of southern Brazil, smeared with the blood-red mud of his native heath 133

The parasol pine-trees of southern Brazil 140

Dinner time at a railway construction camp in Rio Grande do Sul 140

A horse ran for seven miles along the track in front of us and made our train half an hour late 141

A cowboy of southern Brazil 141

The admirable Municipal Theater of São Paulo 160

Santos, the Brazilian coffee port 160

A glimpse of the Rio sky-line from across the bay in Nictheroy 161

The slums of Rio de Janeiro are on the tops of her rock hills 161

An employee of the “Snake Farm” of São Paulo 176

Residents of Rio’s hilltop slums, in a chosen pose 176

The heart of Rio, with its Municipal Theater, the National Library, the old Portuguese aqueduct, and, on the left, a shack-built hilltop 177

A news-stand on the mosaic sidewalk of the Avenida Rio Branco 224

A hawker of Rio, with his license and his distinctive noise-producer 224

The brush-and-broom man on his daily round through the Brazilian capital 225

The sweetmeat seller announces himself with a distinctive whistle 240

The opening of the “Kinetophone” in Brazil 240

The ruins of an old plantation house on the way to Petropolis, backed by the pilgrimage church of Penha 241

At a suburban cinema of São Paulo the colored youth charged with the advertising painted his own portrait of Edison. He may be made out leaning affectionately on the right shoulder of his masterpiece 288

The central praça of Campinas 288

Catalão and the plains of Goyaz, from the ruined church above the town 289

Amparo, like many another town of São Paulo, is surrounded on all sides by coffee plantations 289

Itajubá, state of Minas Geraes, the home of a former Brazilian president 304

Ouro Preto, former capital of Minas Geraes 305

The walls of many a residence in the new capital, Bello Horizonte, are decorated with paintings 305

Diamantina spills down into the stream in which are found some of its gold and diamonds 320

A hydraulic diamond-cutting establishment of Diamantina 320

In the diamond fields of Brazil 321

Diamond diggers do not resemble those who wear them 321

xiVictoria, capital of the state of Espiritu Sancto, is a tiny edition of picturesque Rio 352

Bahia from the top of the old “Theatro São João” 352

Beggars of Bahia, backed by some of our advertisements 353

A family of Bahia, and a familiar domestic chore 353

The site on which Bahia was founded 368

Not much is left of the clothes that have gone through a steam laundry of Bahia 368

Taking a jack-fruit to market 369

The favorite Sunday diversion of rural northern Brazil 372

The waterworks of a Brazilian city of some 15,000 inhabitants 372

A Brazilian laundry 373

Brazilian milkmen announcing their arrival 373

The mailboat leaves Aracajú for the towns across the bay 380

Another Brazilian milkman 380

Carnival costumes representing “A Crise,” or hard times 381

A Brazilian piano van needs neither axle-grease nor gasoline 381

Ladies of Pernambuco 384

A minstrel of Pernambuco—and a Portuguese shopkeeper 384

Advertising the Kinetophone in Pernambuco, with a monk and a dancing girl. “Tut” on the extreme left, Carlos behind the drummer 385

The pungent odor of crude sugar is characteristic of downtown Recife 400

In the dry states north of Pernambuco cotton is the most important crop 400

Walking up a cocoanut palm to get a cool drink 401

Wherever a train halts long enough in Brazil the passengers rush out to have a cup of coffee 401

The houses of northeastern Brazil are often made entirely of palm leaves 416

Transportation in the interior of Brazil is primitive—and noisy 416

Our advertising matter parading the streets of a Brazilian town off the main trail of travel 417

The carnauba palm of Ceará, celebrated for its utility as well as its beauty 417

Rural policemen of Ceará, in the heavy leather hats of the region 432

From town to port in São Luis de Maranhão—and a street car 433

A street of São Luis de Maranhão 433

My baggage on its way to the hotel in Natal. At every station of northern Brazil may be seen happy-go-lucky negroes with nothing on their minds but a couple of trunks 448

Dolce far niente between shows in Pará 448

The cathedral of Pará 449

Pará has been called the “City of beautiful Trees” 449

xiiIce on the equator. It is sent out from the factory in Pará to the neighboring towns in schooners of varicolored sails, a veritable fog rising from it under the equatorial sun 464

Two Indians of the Island of Marajó, the one a native, the other imported from India to improve the native stock 464

A family dispute on the Amazon 465

The captain and mate of our gaiola were both Brazilians of the north 465

An Amazonian landscape 480

A boatload of “Brazil nuts.” The Amazonian paddle is round 480

An inter-state customhouse at the boundary of Pará and Manaos, and the Brazilian flag 481

A lace maker on the Amazon 496

The Municipal Theater of Manaos 496

Here and there our batelão stopped to pick up a few balls of rubber 497

Now and then we halted to land something at one of the isolated huts along the Rio Branco 497

Our batelão loaded cattle at sunrise from the corrals on the banks 500

The captain of my last Brazilian batelão, and his wife 500

Though families are rare, there is no race suicide along the Rio Branco 501

Dom Antonito and one of the ant-hills that dot the open campo of the upper Rio Branco 508

I crossed the boundary between Brazil and British Guiana in a leaky craft belonging to Ben Hart, who lived on the further bank of the Mahú 508

Hart had built himself a native house on the extreme edge of British Guiana 509

Hart and his Macuxy Indian helpers 509

Fortunately Hart was a generous six feet or my baggage might not have got across what had been trickling streams a few days before 512

We impressed an Indian father and son into service as carriers 512

Macuxy Indians with teeth filed or chipped to points 513

An Indian village along the Rupununi 513

The father and son turned boatmen, against their wills, and paddled us down the Rupununi 528

Two of my second crew of paddlers 528

One of my Indians shooting fish from our dugout 529

“Harris,” my “certified steersman” on the Essequibo 529

We set off down the Essequibo in the same worm-eaten old dugout 532

“Harris” and his wife at one of their evening campfires 533

Battling with the Essequibo 533

More trouble on the Essequibo 540

High Street, Georgetown, capital of British Guiana 540

Cayenne, capital of French Guiana, from the sea 541

xiiiThe “trusties” among the French prisoners of Cayenne have soft jobs and often wear shoes 541

A former Paris lawyer digging sewers in Cayenne, under a negro boss 560

Schoelcher, author of the act of emancipation of the negroes of the French possessions in America 560

The human scavengers of Cayenne are ably assisted by the vultures 561

In the market-place of Cayenne. The chief stock is cassava bread wrapped in banana leaves 561

A market woman of Cayenne, and a stack of cassava bread 576

Homeward bound from market 576

French officers in charge of the prisoners of Cayenne 577

White French convicts who would like to go to France, rowing out to our ship black French conscripts who would rather stay at home 577

Along the road in Dutch Guiana 580

A Mohammedan Hindu of Dutch Guiana 580

A Chinese woman of Surinam who has adopted the native headdress 581

A lady of Paramaribo 581

Javanese women tapping rubber trees after the fashion of the Far East 588

Javanese and East Indian women clearing up a cacao plantation in Dutch Guiana 588

Javanese celebrating the week-end holiday with their native musical instruments 589

Wash-day in Dutch Guiana 589

An East Indian woman of Surinam 592

A Javanese woman of the Surinam plantations 592

A gold mining camp in the interior of Dutch Guiana 593

Pouring out the sap of the bullet-tree into the pans in which it hardens into “balata,” an inferior kind of rubber 593

A ferry across the Surinam River, joining two sections of the railroad to the interior 596

A Bush negro family on its travels. Less than half the dugout is shown 596

A Bush negro watching me photograph our engine 597

A “gran man,” or chieftain of the Bush negroes, returning from his yearly visit to the Dutch governor of Surinam, with his “commission” from Queen Wilhelmina, and followed by his obsequious and footsore valet 597

The main street of Paramaribo, capital of Dutch Guiana, with its row of often mortgaged mahogany trees in the background 604

An East Indian and an escaped Madagascar prisoner from Cayenne cutting down a “back dam” on a Surinam plantation in order to kill the ants that would destroy it 604

Javanese workmen opening pods of cacao that will eventually appear in our markets as chocolate and cocoa 605

A landscape in Hindu-inhabited British Guiana 608

xivIndentured East Indians enjoying a Saturday half-holiday before one of their barrack villages 608

Prisoners at work on a leaking dam in Ciudad Bolívar on the Orinoco 609

The trackless llanos of Venezuela 609

An Indian family of eastern Venezuela 612

Lopez, the hammock-buyer, and the charm he always wears on his travels 612

A Venezuelan landscape 613

Hammock-makers at home 620

The palm-leaf threads of the hammocks are made pliable by rubbing them on a bare leg in the early morning before the dew has dried 620

Lopez buying hammocks 621

We were delighted to find a rare water-hole in which to quench our raging thirst 621

Lopez uncovers as he passes the last resting-place of a fellow-traveler 624

Dinner time in rural Venezuela 624

Lopez enters his native village in style 625

The hammock-buyer in the bosom of his family 628

Policemen of Barcelona, and a part of the city waterworks 628

A glimpse of the Venezuelan capital 629

The statue of Simón Bolívar in the central plaza of Caracas 629

A bread-seller of Caracas 636

The birthplace of Simón Bolívar of Caracas, the “Washington of South America” 636

A street in Caracas 637

The Municipal Theater of Caracas 637

WORKING NORTH FROM PATAGONIA

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