ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING PAGE

In the Monte Grande, the “Great Wilderness” of Bolivia, the commander of the garrison insisted on sending a boy soldier, with an ancient and rusted Winchester, to “protect” me from the savages Frontispiece

One of the wood-burning steamers of the lower Magdalena, on the route to Bogotá 4

Along the Magdalena we halted several times each day for fuel 4

Hays catches his first glimpse of the jungles of Colombia 13

The stewards of the “Alicia” in full uniform 13

A village on the banks of the Magdalena 17

Jirardot; end of the steamer line and beginning of the railroad to Bogotá 17

A typical Indian hut on the outskirts of Bogotá 20

Indian girls and women are the chief dray-horses of the Colombian capital 20

Bogotá and its sabana from the summit of Guadalupe 28

The central plaza of Bogotá from the window of our room 28

A chola, or half-Indian girl, of Bogotá backed by an outcast of the “gente decente” class 32

A street of Bogotá. The line of flaggings in the center is for the use of Indians and four-footed burden bearers 32

Celebrating Colombia’s Independence Day (July 20th) 37

Meanwhile in another square the populace marvels at the feats of “maroma nacional” of an amateur circus 37

A section of the ancient highway, built by the Spaniards more than three centuries ago 44

Fellow-travelers at the edge of the sabana of Bogotá 44

Approaching the Central Cordillera of the Andes 49

Hays, seated before the “Hotel Mi Casa” and behind one of his $5 cigars 53

A bit of the road by which we mounted to the Quindío pass over the central range, with forests of the slender palms peculiar to the region 53

The first days on the road; showing how I would have traveled by choice 60

On the western side of the Central Cordillera the trail drops quickly down into the tropics again 60

XILike those of the days of Shakespeare, the theater of Cartago consists of a stage—of split bamboo, with a tile roof—inside the patio of the “hotel” 64

Cartago watching our departure 64

Along the Cauca Valley 69

In places the Cauca Valley swarmed with locusts 69

Worse than the locusts 72

The market-place of Tuluá, with the cross that protects it against all sorts of calamities 72

A view of the “sacred city” of Buga, with the new church erected in honor of the miraculous Virgin 76

A horseman of the Cauca in full regalia 76

The scene of “Maria,” most famous of South American novels, and once the residence of its author 80

The home of “Maria”; and a typical hacendado family of the Cauca 80

The market-place of Cajibío, in the highlands of Popayán 96

Crossing the Cauca River with a pack train by one of the typical “ferries” of the Andes 101

A village of the mountainous region south of Popayán 101

Hays, less considerable weight, and a fellow-roadster 108

An Indian woman weaving teque-teque or native cloth, by the same method used before the Conquest 108

Quito lies in a pocket of the Andes, at the foot of Pichincha, more than 10,000 feet above sea-level 120

A view of Quito, backed by the Panecillo that bottles it up on the south 129

A patio of the Monastery of San Francisco, one of the eighteen monasteries and convents of Quito, said to be the most extensive in the Western Hemisphere 129

The family of “Don Panchito” with whom I lived in Quito 133

Girls of the “gente decente” class of Quito, in a school run by European nuns 133

Quito does not put its faith in small locks and keys 140

Ecuadorian soldiers before the national “palace” 140

A corner of Quito—looking through a garbage-hole into one of the many ravines by which the city is broken up 144

After the bullfight a yearling is often turned into the ring for the amusement of the youthful male population of Quito 149

A group of the Indians that form so large a percentage of Quito’s population 149

The undertaker’s delivery wagon 156

XIIProbably not his own in spite of the circumstantial evidence against him 156

Almost everything that moves in Quito rides on the backs of Indians 161

An Indian family driving away dull care—and watching me take the picture of a dog down the street 161

The street by which one leaves Quito on the tramp to the south 165

Long before Edison thought of his poured-cement houses, the Indians of the Andes were building their fences in a similar manner 165

Typical huts of the páramo of Tiopullo 168

Beyond the páramo of Azuay the trail clambers over broken rock ledges into the town of Cañar 168

Indians carrying a grand piano across the plaza of Cañar on a journey to the interior 172

The Indians of Ecuador draw their droves of cattle on after them by playing a weird, mournful “music” on the bocina, made of a section of bamboo 172

Ruins of the fortress of Ingapirca, near Cañar 176

A mild example of the “road” through southern Ecuador 176

Cuenca, third city of Ecuador, lies in one of the most fertile and beautiful valleys of the Andes 181

A detail of the “Panama” hat market of the Azogues 184

Arrived at the wholesale establishments of Cuenca, the hats are finished 184

My home in Cuenca, with the Montesinos family 188

Students of the Colegio of Cuenca 188

The “English Language Club” of Cuenca in full session 193

An hacienda-house of southern Ecuador, backed by its grove of eucalyptus-trees 193

Plowing for wheat or corn on the hacienda of Cumbe 200

The church, and the dwelling of my host, the priest of Oña 208

Loja, southernmost city of Ecuador, backed by her endless labyrinth of mountains 208

The guinea-pigs on which I feasted upon breaking out of the wilderness on the Peruvian frontier—and the cook 213

The Indians of Zaraguro are different, both in type and costume, from the meeker types of Quito and vicinity 213

In the semi-tropical Province of Jaen, in north Peru, sugarcane grows luxuriantly 220

The sugar that is not turned into aguardiente, or native whiskey, is boiled down in the trapiche into crude brown blocks, variously known as panela, chancaca, rapadura, empanisado, papelón, etc., weighed and wrapped in banana-leaves, selling at about 5 cents for 3 pounds 220

XIIIThe teniente-gobernador, or “lieutenant-governor,” of Jaen 229

The two of us 229

The main street of the great provincial capital of Jaen 236

The government “ferry” across the Huancabamba 236

A woman of the jungles of Jaen preparing me the first meal in days at the typical Ecuadorian cook-stove 248

Peruvian prisoners earn their own livelihood by weaving hats, spinning yarn, and the like 248

The ancient city of Cajamarca lies in one of the most magnificent highland valleys of the Andes 257

The only wheeled vehicle I saw in Peru during my first three months in that country 264

One of the many unfinished churches of Cajamarca 264

One of the few remaining simpichacas, or suspension bridges, of the Andes 272

A typical shop of the Andes 272

Detail of the ruins of “Marca-Huamachuco,” high up on the mountain above the modern town of that name 289

Pallasca, to which I climbed from one of the mightiest quebradas in the Andes 289

Catalino Aguilar and his wife, Fermín Alva, my nurses in the hospital of Caráz 296

An Indian of Cerro de Pasco region carrying a slaughtered sheep 296

Though within a few degrees of the equator, Huaráz, capital of the most populous department of Peru, has a veritable Swiss setting of snow-clad peaks and glaciers 304

Threshing wheat with the aid of the wind 304

Crossing the Central Cordillera of the Andes south of Huaráz, barely nine degrees below the equator 308

The fortress of the former Inca city of Huánaco el Viejo 317

A typical residence of the Indians of the high páramos 317

The arrieros with whom I left Huallanga, and the family inhabiting the hut shown in the preceding picture 321

The immaculate staff of the Cerro de Pasco hospital 321

The semi-weekly lottery drawing in the main plaza of Lima 328

All aboard! A Sunday excursion that was not posed 328

The bleak mining town of Morococha, more than 16,000 feet above sea-level 336

The American miners of Morococha live in comfort for all the altitude and bleakness of their surroundings 336

A typical miner of the high Peruvian Andes 340

XIVMiners of Morococha,—a Welch foreman and two of his gang 340

A hint of what the second-class traveler on Peruvian railways must put up with 349

The wide main street and a part of the immense market of Huancayo, said to be the largest in Peru 349

A detail of the market of Huancayo, with a bit of pottery like that of the days of the Incas 356

“Chusquito” descending one of the few remnants of the old Inca highway I found from Quito to Cuzco 356

Huancavelica, one of the most picturesque and least-visited provincial capitals of Peru 365

On the “road” to Ayacucho I overtook a lawyer who was importing a piano 376

Carrying the piano across one of the typical bridges of the Peruvian Andes 376

The striking headdress of the women of Ayacucho 385

The friendly and ingratiating waiters of our hotel in Ayacucho 385

A religious procession in the main square of Ayacucho 392

A gala Sunday in the improvised “bullring” of Ayacucho 392

A familiar sight in the Andes—a recently butchered beef hung in sheets along the clothes-line to sun-dry into charqui 400

A typical “bed” in the guest-room provided for travelers by many Peruvian hacendados 400

The fatherless urchin who fell in with me beyond Andahuaylas 405

My body-servant in Andahuaylas, and the sickle with which he was supposed to cut all the alfalfa “Chusquito” could eat 405

A view of Quito, capital of Ecuador, from the summit of the Panecillo 408

View of Cuzco, the ancient Inca capital, from the summit of Sacsahuaman 408

Building a house in Peru 412

The patio of the “Hotel Progreso” of Abancay 412

A religious procession in Abancay 417

A chola of Abancay, wearing the dicclla which all put on at the age of puberty 432

A chiefly-Indian woman of Abancay 432

The first view of Cuzco 437

An Indian of Cuzco, speaking only Quichua 444

Indian women of the market-place, wearing the “pancake” hat of Cuzco 444

An Indian required to pay for the day’s mass proudly clings to his staff of office 449

Youth from a village near Cuzco, each with a coca cud in his cheek 449

XVOur party setting out for Machu Picchu across the high plains about Cuzco 453

Ollantaytambo, the end of the first day’s journey, in the valley of the Urubamba 453

Spring plowing in the Urubamba valley 460

As we rode eastward into the sunrise down the gorge of the Urubamba, glacier-clad Piri above threw off its night wraps of clouds 464

The semicircular tower and some of the finest stone-cutting and fitting of Machu Picchu 464

We came out on the edge of things and Machu Picchu lay before us 469

The resounding gorge of the Urubamba, with terraces of the ancient inhabitants on the inaccessible left bank 472

One of the many stairways of Machu Picchu 472

The temple of the three windows, an unusual feature of Inca architecture 476

“Rumiñaui” seated on the intihuatana, or sun-dial, at the top of the town 476

The babies of Bolivia sit in a whole nest of finery on nurse’s back 485

Arequipa is built of stones light as wood, cut from a neighboring quarry 485

Indians plowing on the shores of Titicaca 492

Sunrise at Copacabana, the sacred city of Bolivia on the shores of Titicaca 492

One of the two huge figures facing the grass-grown plaza of modern Tiahuanaco at the entrance to the church 501

The ancient god of Tiahuanaco before which the Indian woman, herding her pigs, bowed down in worship 501

Arequipa, second city of Peru, in its desert oasis, backed by misty volcano 504

“Suddenly the bleak pampa falls away at one’s feet” 504

Llamas of La Paz patiently awaiting the return of their driver 508

Down the valley below La Paz the pink and yellow soil stands in fantastic, rain-gashed cliffs 508

Cholas of La Paz, in their native garb 513

“Sandy” leading his train of carts loaded with construction material for the railroad to Cochabamba 528

The “gringo bench” of Cochabamba,—left to right, “Old Man Simpson”; Tommy Cox; Sampson, the Cockney; Owen; and Scribner 528

The home and family of the alcalde who could not read 536

Our impromptu celebration of Christmas Eve in Pampa Grande 536

A street of Santa Cruz de la Sierra after a shower 545

Conscripts of the Bolivian army practicing their first maneuvers in the central plaza of Santa Cruz 545

XVIManuel Abasto, a native of Santa Cruz de la Sierra 552

Through the open doors of Santa Cruz one often catches a glimpse of the patio, a garden gay with flowers 552

Konanz seated on our baggage in the pelota de cuero 560

The force of one of the four fortines, or “fortresses,” with which the Bolivian government garrisons the Monte Grande against the savages 560

Jim and “Hughtie” Powell, Americans from Texas who have turned Bolivian peons 564

A jungle hair-cut 564

The old stone and brick church and monastery of San José 573

The fatherly old cura of San José standing before the Jesuit sun-dial 573

Henry Halsey, the American rancher, of tropical Bolivia, and his family 577

Saddle-steers take the place of horses and mules in the muddy parts of tropical Bolivia 577

A German of tropical Bolivia and his “housekeeper” 581

Santiago de Chiquitos, above the gnat-line, backed by its reddish cliffs 581

“Don Cupertino,” chief adornment of eastern Bolivia, with his family and dependents 589

The tipoy, a single loose gown, constitutes the entire garb of most of the native women of tropical Bolivia 593

A girl of Santiago de Chiquitos selling a chicken to the cook of “los americanos” 593

The shoemaker who lived next door to “los americanos” in Santiago de Chiquitos, and his latest “wife” 597

A birthday dance in Santiago de Chiquitos, in honor of the German in the center background 597

A view from the promenade-deck of the steamer 604

A Paraguayan landscape, with native cart 604

The mixture of types in the Argentine 608

MAP

The author’s itinerary 40

VAGABONDING

DOWN THE ANDES

3