An Account of a journey from Adrianople, thro Bulgaria, Walachia, Transylvania, Hungary, Germany, Flanders, Holland, and thence to England, in the years MDCCII and MDCCIII.

April viii. A. D. 1702.

This day about ten a clock my Lord Paget set out from Adrianople, and began his journey homeward with a splendid equipage. First proceeded two chiaushes, and six janisaries; then the three flags of the arms of England, the union, and St. George, after these the gentlemen of the horse, with thirteen led horses; next the agá, appointed by the government to conduct his Excellency; who was followed by four coaches, each drawn by six horses, in the last of which rode his Excellency himself, and in the first some gentlemen, who accompanied him in this journey; namely, Count Gylderstope of Sweden, Mr. George Montague, nephew to my Lord Hallifax, and his tutor Mr. Gangain.

For conveniency of carriage, and accommodations of the journey, his Excellency was furnished with seventy one waggons, which were to attend him to the extreme bounds of the Turkish empire, at the sole charge of the Port. Tho this was but the least mark of esteem, which he received from thence; as it may be reasonably computed, that they presented him to the value of near twenty purses of money, since his last arrival at Adrianople, in the following particulars. For the fitting up of his palace in that city, five hundred dollars: for the cushions and other furniture of two sophá rooms, six hundred: for a stately horse from the grand vizír, five hundred: for the rich furniture of the same, a thousand: for a sable vest at the same time, a thousand: for an horse and furniture from the vizír kayá, five hundred: for the like from the reis effendi, five hundred: for fifteen mules from the government, at about fifty dollars each, seven hundred and fifty: for seventy two horses from the same, at thirty dollars each, two thousand one hundred and sixty: and lastly for one hundred days tain, or allowance, from the Port, at the rate of fifty dollars a day, making five thousand.

This day his Excellency and his retinue travel slowly about the space of fifteen miles, and about three a clock arrive at a small village called Senigée, where we find the waggons disposed in their several stations, the apartments of each company alloted, and three tents (tho not pitched this evening) ready for the service of his Excellency; which I here mention once for all, as being the constant method of each following conáck.

April ix.

From Senigée we proceed this morning in three hours to Cokúck Derocut, and from thence in the like time to Boiák Dervent, where we find his Excellency’s tents orderly and conveniently placed, and all things regularly disposed for this night’s lodging. Here we saw an old Bulgar Christian, named Staón, aged one hundred and twenty years[112]; who told us, that he had all his life time been subject to great and continual sickness, and had three times changed his teeth, once in his infancy, and twice in his old age. They were now for the most part intire, his senses of hearing and tasting very lively, and his sight but little decayed; his beard and his eyebrows lately became perfectly black, but the hair of his head milk white, and the skin of his breast like the bark of an old weather beaten beech.

April x.

We travel this day from Dervent to Jenícui, having hitherto found the country to consist of a level campain, and a soil that promised fertility, were it more happily furnished with inhabitants, water, and wood.

April xi.

We now proceed from Jenícui to Pashácui, so called from the residence of Achmét Gerai Sultan, who is a Tartar prince, happily banished from his own barbarous country to this fair and delightful village, situated in a verdant plain, that is better furnished with wood, than the campain we had lately passed; and watered with a small river, which seems to rise from the bowels of mount Haemus, and bend its course towards the Tunsa.

April xii.

From Pashácui we arrive at Comorwa, a rich well cultivated village, and plentifully supplied both with wood and water. In our way hitherto from Adrianople we sometimes observed drummers, placed in the nature of watchmen, to give notice of the security of the road.

April xiii.

From Comorwa we proceed in two hours and a half to Dobral, leaving in view to the right hand a large Turkish town called Cornibat, famous for dying, and preparing the fine purple and yellow leather of this country, which it vends in great quantities. From Dobral we begin to ascend the foot of Haemus, where the way winds so artificially, as to take away the difficulty of ascent. Here crossing a rapid river, which forms its chanel in the body of the mountain, and thro a variety of diverting shades and clifts, we arrive at length at an open plain on the top of the hill, and therein at a true country paradise of Bulgar Christians called Challikcavák[113]; where a new church has been lately obtained for the inhabitants, by the interest of Count Oetingh, embassador extraordinary from his Imperial Majesty. Here the damsels of the parish entertained us this evening with a dance, which tho performed with no great art or variety, yet had a certain plainness and simplicity, which was truly grateful. The women here wear as ornaments, a sort of cravat consisting of various silver coins, and large bossy silver bracelets; who dismissed us the next morning with corn strewed in our way.

April xiv.

On the top of the hill we proceed for some time in a level road, thro a stately grove of oaks; after which the way begins to descend, and being shortened by the pleasure of the shady scene on each side, leads unexpectedly into the adjoining plain. In this we travel about an hour, near the foot of the delightful Haemus, and then find our quarters ready to receive us at a Christian village, called Trágoe. And indeed all the villages, which we had hitherto passed from Adrianople, were intirely inhabited by Christians, who by nation are Bulgarians, but by their faith of the Greek communion.

April xv.

We still continue our journey at the foot of the mountain, till in an hour’s time we arrive at Eskí Stambol; from whence the way, now leaving Haemus at our backs, carries us in four hours more to the first Turkish village, which had occurred in our progress, called Boklar. Mount Haemus being the limit, that divides Thracia from Bulgaria, or Moesia Inferior of the antients, we made this day’s journey in the latter; which hereabouts appears as pleasant, as a just mixture of hills and vales, woods and lawns, arable and pasture ground can make it. The above mentioned Eskí Stambol is a name given by the Turks to the remains of an ancient city (possibly the Oescus Triballorum) which at the foot of Haemus shews the intire tract of two walls; the inward square, and of about a mile in circumference; the outward almost circular, and containing the compass of five miles. But besides these it has no reliques of carved work, or any inscription, that may give light to the true name or history of the place. In one corner only of the inward wall are several crosses, and an image of the Παναγία, or Virgin Mother, barbarously cut, with two or three rude lines of modern Greek characters, in which nothing but the word Βασηλίσαν, or Queen, was now legible, and that corruptly written, as it is here copied. By the abovementioned walls runs a small river from the Haemus, now called by the Italians Monte Argentato, and by the Turks Batkán.

April xvi.

Over a country, which is truly rich, as well as pleasant, and curiously varied by easy ascents and descents, we proceed in five hours from Trágoe to Arnoútcui; a village whose inhabitants are of the Greek communion, tho its name implies them to be of Albanian original.

April xvii.

Thro a pleasant tract of country, containing a grateful variety of arable ground, pasture, and woods, we arrive in seven hours at Uzungée Alon. By the way we passed several villages, as likewise a large market town, wherein are seven mosques, and a palace of the pashá of Nicopoli, which goes by the name of Rásgrad. The cadí of this place, with an alaí chiaush, and other officers, came an hour out of town to meet his Excellency.

April xviii.

Thro a like country, only a little more woody, we continue our journey to Uppéer. And from thence the day following, where we first begin to see the Danube, we proceed thro a rich, pleasant, and well cultivated country, till about twelve a clock we arrive at Tutracán, on the banks of the river.

April xx.

We stay at this place, employed in the care of transporting his Excellency’s equipage on the other side of the water; and in the mean time cannot but reflect with pleasure on the agreable tract of ground, which for five days we had passed thro in Moesia Inferior. A country, which (however decried by Ovid, and disparaged by our modern geographers) for the richness of its soil, variety of rising and falling ground, elegancy of prospect, and a competent provision of wood and water, is perhaps not to be paralleled by any other spot in the universe. But tho the whole tract of this country, which descends gradually from the foot of the Haemus to the banks of the Danube, is rich both in arable and pasture ground; yet the inhabitants seem excessive poor, and are defended from the injuries of the weather by houses very meanly built.

April xxi.

His Excellency and his retinue this day pass the Danube, between Tutracán and the mouth of the Argisch, about eight in the morning, at a passage about a mile broad. Upon landing, his Excellency was complimented from the Prince of Valachia by his cousin german Count Tomáso Cantacuzéno, and was received by a guard of fifty men, and two coaches of six. In the finer of these his Excellency rode about a mile into Valachia, along the banks of the Argisch, and then alighting was entertained under three rich tents, sent likewise by the Prince for his reception.

April xxii.

His Excellency continued his journey about six hours thro the Valachian, a country which on this side is exactly level, and luxuriantly rich, but desolate for want of culture and inhabitants. In the road we meet with wooden crosses, erected in many places to excite the devotion of Christian travelers; as also a convent of monks about two hours short of our conáck, near which the Argisch receives the chanel of the Dembowitza. At length we arrive at a miserable collection of cottages, scarce deserving the name of a village, but blessed with the convenience of a delicious and healthy water; where we find the tents both of the Prince and his Excellency ready pitched for his entertainment this evening. We were conducted hither by Count Tomáso, who undertook the care of the public tain to be furnished for his Excellency.

April xxiii.

We proceed four hours thro a pleasant wood, enriched with lilia convallium, and other flowers; and at length pitch our tents at Popest, which in the Valachian language signifies the same as Priest-town. Here about five in the evening his Excellency received an express by Baron Minsheim from Count Rabutin, with the most unhappy news of the death of his Britannic Majesty, on the eighth past.

April xxiv.

About seven this morning his Excellency set forward, and prepared for his entrance into Bucurest, which is distant about an hour and half from Popest. Not far from his conáck he was met by a rich coach from the Prince of Valachia, complimented by his two eldest sons, and attended with a guard of about five hundred men. His Excellency having mounted the coach, preceded by the guard, made his entry about nine a clock; when he was conducted to a spare palace of the Prince, near that of his own residence, and entreated to use it as his own home. It is a fair and gentile house, built of stone, and covered agreably to the custom of this place with wooden tiles; and being furnished with apartments after the Christian fashion, may be esteemed magnificent, when compared with the barbarous edifices of the neighbouring Turks. From the front it looks into a large garden, and from the right wing into another of somewhat a lesser size; both which are agreable, and afford a convenience of shade and verdure.

This afternoon the Prince came on horseback thro the lesser garden to visit his Excellency, who met him at the garden door, and could scarce prevail with him to precede in going up stairs. He returned in an hour, and gave opportunity to his uncle, Constantinus Cantacuzenus, who has the office of grand stolnicho, or steward, in this court, to pay my Lord the same compliment. The name of the Prince is Joannes Constantinus Bassarabas, who has enjoyed the principality about thirteen years, having succeeded Serbanus Cantacuzenus, brother of the above mentioned Constantinus Stolnichus. He is a promoter of good order and discipline in the province, a reviver of architecture, and incourager of learning both at Bucurest and other places of the principality; into which he has introduced two or three printing presses, and from thence published several books useful for the instruction and edification of the Greek church. He is about forty seven years of age, and has ten children, four of them sons; the second of whom, being about fourteen years of age, is well instructed in the Latin and Greek languages. He is of an affable, mild, and courteous temper; generous, careful of the education of his family, and a great encourager of religion; and therefore liberal in his disbursements for printing and giving away books, erecting of monasteries, adorning of churches, and other acts of piety. His uncle, Constantinus Cantacuzenus Stolnichus, is an elderly person, who has traveled over most parts of Europe; is skilled in the controversies of their own church, as well as in the several liberal sciences; is also well versed in politics, and by his counsels chiefly sustains the present Prince, with the honour and interest of the principality.

April xxv.

By nine this morning his Excellency returned the visit to the Prince, who received him at the head of the stairs, and entertained him at first with a conference of about an hour and half long. After this his Excellency was conducted into the dining room, where, at a long table sumptuously spread, the Prince and his Excellency (the former on the right hand) sat down to diner. On the side of his Excellency sat the two eldest sons of the Prince, his son in law, with the other nobles and officers of the court. On the side of the Prince sat in order the retinue of the ambassador, with our conductor Count Tomaso and others. The feast was protracted at least seven hours, during which passed a great variety of courses, consisting of excellent and costly dishes, with plenty of exquisite wine, and many ceremonious healths; the principal of which were to the Grand Signior, the Emperor of Germany, and the Queen of England, all seconded with salvoes from the soldiery in the adjoining court. Here we were made witnesses to a singular air of courtesy, hospitality, and gentile behavior in the Valachian nobility; but more particularly in the Prince himself, who drank to the health and prosperity of each stranger at the table. At the conclusion of the entertainment he veiled his Excellency with a rich silk robe of the Valachian fashion, lined with an excellent sable fur, upon which his Excellency and his retinue return to their own lodgings. The palace of the Prince, with the apartments, and gardens adjoining, are truly noble and magnificent; and tho not to be compared with those of some other Christian princes, yet much preferable to those, in which the ignorant Turks so ambitiously please themselves.

April xxvi.

This morning we had divine service and a sermon in his Excellency’s family, and in the afternoon he paid a short visit to the Patriarch of Jerusalem, but afterwards a much longer to the abovementioned Constantinus Cantacuzenus Stolnichus. The Patriarch lodges in a large kane, built by the present Prince; where are large apartments and magazines for merchants, the rent of which may yeild about twenty purses per annum, and is by the Prince consigned into that Patriarch’s hands for the use of the Holy sepulcher.

April xxvii.

I visited the press of this place, where I found them printing some pieces of devotion in Arabic, under the care of the Patriarch of Antioch to be distributed by him about his diocess. Beside this, they were undertaking to print a large folio of the famous Maximus Hieromonachus, called Κυριακοδρόμιον, or The course of the several Sundays throughout the year. On this occasion I there bought several books, among which one containing all the Liturgies, Hymns, Rituals, Lessons, and other devotional tracts, used on all occasions in the Greek church through the course of the whole year.

This morning the Prince gave his Excellency another visit, which he returned in the afternoon, and at the same time took leave, with a deep sense of the generous, honourable, and affectionate treatment he had received in this court. After his return from the Prince, he received a visit of leave from Constantinus Cantacuzenus Stolnichus, who then presented him with a gentile horse of the Valachian breed, and at the same time two of the same breed and quality were sent him from the Prince, upon which his Excellency answered the present of Constantinus with a diamond ring, valued at three hundred pounds.

The same day I was favoured with a present of several Greek books, lately printed in this province, from Κῦρ Γεώργιος Καστριώτης; as likewise of some others from his Excellency Constantinus Cantacuzenus. Towards the evening our curiosity led us half an hour out of town to visit a convent, called in the Valachian tongue the Catrochán, and founded by the late Prince Serbanus Cantacuzenus. It is accounted the most beautiful of several in this province, founded by the present and preceding princes; and therefore a short account of this may serve for a specimen of the rest. It is situated on the Dembowitza, which washes it on two sides; while the other two are adorned with a grove of lovely, close, and shady oaks. The neighbouring pastures afford an entertaining prospect, whereas the parts nearer to the convent are disposed into orderly vineyards, and gardens. The fabric it self is an oblong quadrangle, built of regular and massy stone, divided into cells for about forty monks, with lodgings for the abbot, a common refectory, kitchin, and other public apartments. But in the middle of the area is erected the chapel, of the exact figure of the antient Greek churches, that is, distinguished into the νάρθηξ or porch, πρόναος or outward chapel, νάος or body of the church, βῆμα or chancel, and θυσιαστήριον or altar; the several parts being regular and stately, supported with pillars, and covered with high cupolas. The ornaments of painting, gilding, and embroidery are exceeding rich; and the pictures so numerously disposed, as to possess every part of the church in the inside, as well as the outside of the front. Here is shewn the monument of Serbán the founder, with his princess, his brother, and other relations; whose pictures, among others, possess a great part of the western wall. Here also are kept the two horse tails, allowed by the Turks to be carried before this prince, together with the bandiéra of the province, and another called the paschal colours, in which the whole Trinity is profanely represented, and God the Father expressed by the image of a reverend old man, looking over the body of our Savior, as it hangs upon the cross.

Bucurest is a large stragling town of a very peculiar make, the outward parts very mean, consisting of houses, the greater part of which is under ground like our cellars, and covered over at the top with straw or bark of trees. The better sort of houses are about the palace of the Prince, which are covered with handsome wooden tiles, the walls built of substantial stone, and the yards and gardens always very wide[114], enclosed with intire trunks of oaks set as near as possible to each other. The streets appear like a continued bridge, being floored from side to side with massy planks of ten yards long, and as many inches thick; which work, however expensive it may seem, is continued thro all the buildings of the place for the extent of some miles together. The sight of the whole is agreable at a distance, by reason of the several houses of the nobility, the palace of the Prince, and the number of churches and convents. These last are all of one form, regularly built, and rising with cupolas, wherein bells are often hung; which I mention, as being the first I had heard since my arrival in Turkey.

The whole province is luxuriantly rich, abounding with woods and pastures, but thinly inhabited, and that in caves and huts rather than houses. Its chief income proceeds from wax, honey, hides, horses, the mines of salt, and custom on some places of the Danube. By these it is able to maintain its prince and barons splendidly, besides paying a yearly tribute to the Turk, that is settled at three hundred and twenty purses, which are equal to thirty two thousand pounds sterling, besides three times that sum extorted beyond the compact. The lands of the province are intirely in the hands of the Prince and barons; the rest, who are rustics, being all either slaves or servants, whose persons or service are at the disposal of the several nobles, on whom they depend.

April xxviii.

We proceed this morning from Bucurest, and after five hours travel take up our lodging at a small village, called Chrytshulest. In the way we stop a little towards the right hand to visit a gentile palace, which is building by the Prince for his second son, situated on a pleasant lake. And the day following, in seven hours from Chrytshulest, we pitch our tents, and lodge near a small river, called Ilsós.

April xxx.

This day about twelve a clock we arrive at Tergovist, where his Excellency and his retinue are lodged in the palace of the Prince. The form and state hereof much resembles that of Bucurest; only it has the advantage of a much finer garden, and therein of a beautiful stone summer house; both which are regular, and may compare with those of the politer Christendom. The town is pleasantly situated on the Ialomitza, beyond which it enjoys the prospect of a beautiful tract of hills, which make the boundary betwixt this province and that of Transylvania; but on the other hand, the eye loses itself in an even boundless plain, encircled at a large distance with stately woods. The city gives title to the chief Metropolite of Valachia, and in like manner, till within these thirty years, was the residence of their princes; when a rebellion against the Turks being here formed by Prince Ghika, and the neighbourhood of Transylvania contributing to render the place more suspected, his successors were constrained to demolish it, and retire to Bucurest. But within five years the present Prince has obtained fresh leave to reestablish it, on condition he erects no fortifications in the place; and accordingly it begins apace to be repeopled, while the Prince refits his palace, embellishes his gardens, and invites the nobility to erect their respective houses, that so they may attend him in those frequent residences, which for the future he intends to make here.

May i.

We took the opportunity of the stay, we this day made at Tergovist, to go after diner to a convent situated on the adjoining hills; which we found well built of fair freestone, adorned with cupolas well carved in lattice work of the same matter; but above all commanding a delightful prospect over the subject plain, and city of Tergovist, which on account of the palaces, the seats of the nobility, and the many fair convents and churches there extant, affords an entertaining landskip.

May ii.

This day we travel four hours from Tergovist, and at length pitch our tents in a pleasant place, surrounded with pendent woods, by the name of Isvóra, not far from the stream of the Dembowitza, which yet continued to flow on our left hand.

May iii.

This morning we proceed, and within half an hour arrive at the foot of the mountains, where the Dembowitza descends into the plain thro an easy clift, which it perhaps has partly formed by the continual and rapid course of its stream. Thro this plain we travel seven hours, in which time we are obliged to cross the winding chanel of the river twenty times or upwards; and being constantly diverted by the murmur of the falling waters; by the shade of the shelving hills that form the vale, and by the evenness of the ascent which imperceptibly leads us up the mountains, we at length pitch in a fair meadow inclosed like a theatre with surrounding trees and hills, where is a small village by the name of Cotonést.

May iv.

We continue our journey four hours thro the same sort of way, that is, along a narrow shady vale, which conveys the winding waters of the Dembowitza; which having crossed several times, we at length arrive at the village of Dragoslave, and in half an hour farther at that of Rukar, in the Greek map, Ῥούναλο, where we pitch and repose this evening. This village is considerably large, consisting of houses all of the Valachian fashion, that is, built round with trees laid even upon one another, covered with an high and deep roof consisting of wooden tiles, and within having no funnel or chimney to convey the smoke, but open only in several parts of the roof to supply that defect.

May v.

Being now imperceptibly advanced almost as high as the snowy tops of the mountain, which we see at a near distance impending over the village, where we lodge, we are informed, that the remaining ascent for the space of half an hour is very difficult, and that afterwards we are to encounter a much more troublesome descent. His Excellency therefore thought fit to repose here this day, and to take that opportunity of sending before him his waggons, coaches, and the greatest part of his baggage; that on the morrow, when he himself was to set forward, he might pass with the greater ease. In the mean time, considering that we then hoped to pass the limits, that separate the two provinces of Transylvania and Valachia, it will be here proper to set down such general remarks, as occurred in traveling thro the latter.

This province was under the Romans from Trajan to Gallienus, or rather to Aurelian; who, tho he was born here, yet translated the remainder of the Romans hence into Moesia and Pannonia. When it became tributary to the Turks by force of arms, it was glad to accept the imposition of three hundred and twenty purses yearly; whilst Moldavia, which voluntarily submitted to that yoke, was assessed at no more than sixty. Ever since, the nomination of their prince has entirely resided in the Turk, who nevertheless allows him all rights of sovereignty in the principality, except that of declaring war, and coining his own money. That which ordinarily passes in this countrey, is therefore either the Dutch, or Venetian lion dollars; with the quarts of Poland; and a small Saxon coin, here called bains, of which one hundred thirty two make a lion dollar. Justice is here performed according to the ancient laws of the province, which are agreable to the Roman law. The power and act of pronouncing sentence is wholly in the prince, after which, as commonly in Turkey, the execution immediately ensues. For the better adjustment of tribute, and other common duties, the whole province is divided into seventeen counties, of which each is to furnish its respective proportion. In time of war it ordinarily maintains twenty thousand men, of which about the fourth part continue in pay in the time of peace.

The natives ordinarily call themselves Romans, and their province Tzerra Romanesca[115], being persuaded that they are descended of that original. And in favour of this opinion they may allege their language, which is a broken mixture of Latin and Italian, into which have been accidentally adopted some few Turkish and Sclavonic words. They write intirely the Cyrillian Sclavonic character, which seems to be a detortion from the Greek. And these properties of their language, as well as the character[116], they have in common with Moldavia; which two provinces, together with Transylvania, constituted the ancient Dacia, the two former Ripensis, and the last Mediterranea. The wines of this province, especially about Tergovist, are exquisite fine. The Valachian habit much resembles that of the Turks. Their religion is intirely that of the Greek church, and the government of it subject to the Patriarch of Constantinople. Their liturgic rites are performed either in the Greek or Sclavonian tongue; tho I was assured, that in some churches the Valachian was admitted, at least they have frequently the Gospels and other offices in that language, but the liturgy itself more rarely. The churches of each parish, as well as chapels of the many monasteries, which are seen here, are usually very fair, well built, richly adorned, profanely painted, and for the most part furnished with bells; tho in some places I have observed the wooden plank, which is common to the Greeks in Turkey, where bells are not permitted. The νάρθηξ, or porch, is generally daubed with superstitious representations of the punishments of hell; and often the inward walls are profaned with some inconsistent corporeal image of God the Father, a thing here permitted against the professed principles and declarations of the Greek church.

May vi.

We proceed this day over the mountain, on a steep craggy rocky way, lined on each side with an dismal shade, and sometimes looking down into a frightful precipice. By half an hour after ten we arrive at the limits of the two provinces, which are distinguished by a wooden cross on the edge of the mountain, from whence the prospect begins to open into Transylvania. Here my Lord was saluted from the government of Transylvania by Count Michael Mikes, as well as from the magistrates of Cronstadt by their deputy, and at the same time attended by a troop of horse, with the colours of the Emperor, as his ordinary guard; upon which the troop of Cosacks, which had hitherto guarded his Excellency from Tergovist, returned home. In one hour and an half from hence we descend the mountain, and at a narrow passage, where the river Bozza finds its passage out of the snowy hills into the adjoining plain, we arrive at the castle of Bran, a small fortress which defends this pass; where his Excellency was saluted, as he passed, with three different salvos of about twenty one guns. Within canon shot of this fort we find a fair set of huts, ready pitched for the reception of his Excellency, with a buttery, kitchen, and other accommodations, provided for his use by the abovesaid Count Mikes; who now undertook the care of the public allowance and conduct of his Excellency from this place, as far as Hermanstadt.

May vii.

By six this morning we set forward from the castle of Bran, directing our course for Cronstadt, being now about two Hungarian miles, or twelve Italian, distant from it. In half an hour his Excellency was met by major general Glychensberg, governor of the forces at Cronstadt and the parts adjoining; together with lieutenant colonel Graven of the regiment of general Rabutin. The same civility he received from the judge and other magistrates of the city, with whom, and the numerous retinue which came along with them, we now proceed, making a train of a mile long. In the mean time our road lay thro that spot of ground, on which general Heusler was defeated, and made prisoner by Count Tekely in the year sixteen hundred and ninety; as also thro the town of Rosnaw, lying in the middle betwixt Bran and Cronstadt, where there is a considerable castle, which likewise saluted his Excellency, as he passed, with three repeated salvos. About eleven a clock we enter the city, the castle repeating continual salvos, which we find all in arms, and the streets lined on both sides with musqueteers, as also the whole soldiery drawn up in order in the market place. In this is the house of general Glychensberg, where his Excellency was received with all marks of respect and honour, and in an hour’s time invited to a noble entertainment. After diner, by order of Count Mikes, we were attended to our several stations, where a Transylvanian gentleman was appointed to act as commissary, or proveditóre, in each respective quarter. Particularly Mr. Paget and myself were favoured with the company and attendance of one Lodislaus Doeza, a civil, intelligent, and well behaved gentleman of the Helvetian confession. And this afternoon Mr. Paget and I walked up the castle hill, from whence we had a prospect of the city, which is almost triangular, enclosed with a stone wall, situated in a narrow vale, under an high snowy clift of mountains, but on one side looking towards a level and fruitful plain. It is surrounded with three distinct suburbs, beautifully intermixed with gardens; and in one part of these suburbs, which runs more within the hills, stands an handsome Valachian church. A dreadful fire about fourteen years since laid the whole town in ashes, and at the same time utterly consumed the library of the school, which is here instituted for teaching of philosophy and theology. The same calamity almost ruined the cathedral church, of which now nothing but the outward case remains to testify its former grandeur; the roof, which was of arched stone, being now only covered with boards.

The general religion of this place is Lutheran; and the church above mentioned is governed by a dean and thirteen capitularies, who enjoy considerable rents from the thirteen parishes of the district of Cronstadt, which are supplied by them. The ecclesiastical government of the whole district is partly in this chapter, and partly in the superintendent of Cronstadt; which office is sometimes distinct, but for the most part held together with the deanry; and from this superintendent appeals lie to the bishop of the whole province of Transylvania.

The civil government of the town is in a judge elected every two years, a senate, and a commonalty of an hundred men. The sentence of the judge is final, and is governed by laws of the place model’d according to the civil law. The city since the fire is fairly rebuilt, with a certain regularity of walls and windows to the street, and the roofs are all covered, as in Valachia, with wooden tiles. The common language is Saxon; this being one of the cities, which belong to the great colony of that nation, which makes one third of Transylvania.

May ix.

This morning we depart from Cronstadt at six a clock by the way of Feketeholm, which has a church fortified like a garrison. From thence we proceed thro woods and hills to Veledin; where in a cold watery plot of grass, surrounded with woods, we lodge this night in tents. Here I took leave of Count Tomáso, who then presented me with two other books from Constantinus Stolnichus.

May x.

General Glychensberg, who waited on his Excellency to this place from Cronstadt, now returned thither. We proceed thro a troublesome way and dark wood to Sharkan, which at length we find deliciously situated upon a river, which a little way from hence enters the Aluta, now called Alt. Here I lodged at the house of the minister, who was a Lutheran, by name George Sularius; and, it being Sunday, I attended him to their evening service.

May xi.

We set forward thro a fair, rich, and well cultivated country to Fogeras, a large but scattered town, and there take up our station by eleven a clock. His Excellency was here lodged in an house, which belonged to Count Tekely, who was prime minister to the late prince Abaffi, and slain in the defeat of General Heusler near Cronstadt. I had here some conversation with the chief pastor of the place, Michael Rozgoni, a learned Calvinist, who had studied in Holland. At Fogeras is a castle surrounded with a wide mote, and so strong, or at least so fortunate, that it is said never to have been taken by force of arms.

May xii.

From hence we proceed in six hours to Úcha, a village inhabited intirely by Valachs. And setting out early from thence the next morning, by twelve a clock we reach Porumback, a most delightful village, situated very near the banks of the Aluta; which river attended us for these three last days journey, not far from our right hand, under the adjoining hills. His Excellency was here met and complimented by general Rabutin from Hermanstadt, who came accompanied with Count Seau, the Emperor’s chief commissary in Transylvania, and two other officers of the imperial army. The General returned before diner, and left my Lord well accommodated in a pleasant country house of Prince Abaffi; whose barnes, and magazines of grain, with the adjoining fish ponds, and rich meadows, that surround the farm, we viewed this afternoon with great pleasure.

May xiv.

We leave Porumback, and are presently after upon the banks of the Aluta, over which river his Excellency’s whole baggage, with the horses, coaches, waggons, and other necessaries, were transported upon flat bottomed boats. We proceed one Hungarian mile from our conáck, and then his Excellency is again met by general Rabutin, and several officers of the army, together with a train of five hundred persons, consisting of two troops of horse with the magistrates and chief citizens of Hermanstadt. After mutual compliments, my Lord takes his place in the General’s coach, and so they both ride together another Hungarian mile to Hermanstadt, attended with a numerous retinue of guards and citizens into the town, where the canons continually kept firing, and the inhabitants received them in arms. There his Excellency being first lodged in a large and convenient house in the marketplace, very near the palace of the General, about one a clock was conduced thither to diner, where a sumptuous feast was prepared at two tables. At the first sat his Excellency with his retinue, general Rabutin, his Lady, the Princess of Holstein, with the Countesses Seau, Bethlen, Mikes, and some others; as also the Counts Seau, Bethlen, Mikes, Stanville of Lorrain, Costa of Piedmont, Monticelli, and Commissary Belli. After diner his Excellency returned to his lodging, where he was now attended by Count Bethlen, instead of Count Mikes, who was appointed to conduct him from Hermanstadt as far as Clausenburg. In the evening the General complimented his Excellency with the command of the garrison, during his stay in this place; and thereupon pressed him four different times to give the watch word, which nevertheless he peremptorily declined.

May xv.

His Excellency staid this and the following day at Hermanstadt, together with his retinue; where he continued to be treated in the same gentile manner by the General.

May xvii.

This being Sunday, we had divine service and a sermon at his Excellency’s lodgings, and then dined again with the General. And in the evening I was favoured by my landlord, Mr. George Reisner, senator of the city (an ingenious and learned person, who had studied ten years in Holland) with his coach and company to visit his garden, beyond the walls and mote of the city; near to which adjoins a famous large and intire crucifix cut in stone, much adored by the papists of this country. The same gentleman gave me notice of three Roman inscriptions which, as I was informed, had been brought from Ulpia Trajana. The first was upon a stone coffin in the market place, of which the following is a copy.

T. VAREN. T. F. PAP. SABINIANO EQ. R.

FLAM. LAVRENTINO ITEM FLAM.

COL. SARMIZ. DEC. COL. SAR. ET APVL.

E. M. V. OMNIB. EQVESTRIB. MILIT. PERFUNC.

CORNEL. LVCILLA CONIVX PILA EXTRVC

TA. SARCOFAGVM IN QVO VARENIA

PROBINAQVE SABINIANI SOROR CONDITA

ERAT ETIAM EIVS CORPORE CONLOCA

TO SVPERPOSVIT[117].

The others were in the house of General Rabutin, upon the base of two pillars, as I have here given them.

I. O. M.

M. ROMAN

VS INCOL

PVS

EX VOTO.

I. O. M.

C. SEMPRONIVS

VRBANVS

PROC. Φ. AVG[118].

The same gentleman shewed me also the cathedral church of this place, entertained me with the music of the organ, and presented me with a book called Breviculus de nationibus Transylvanicis. Another on the same subject was given me the day before by the rector scholae Cibiniensis, which place with the adjoining library I then visited. This night I likewise returned a visit to the reverend Isaacus Zabanius, primarius pastor Cibiniensis, et ecclesiae cathedralis decanus, by whom and his wife I was kindly entertained above three hours. He then gave me an Answer, which he had formerly compiled, to Campiani Rationes decem.

May xviii.

By six this morning his Excellency and retinue leaving Hermanstadt were attended by the General, and gentlemen above mentioned, beyond the adjoining river, after which they all took a cordial leave; especially lieutenant colonel Graven, to whom his Excellency presented a diamond ring. We now proceed in our way, at which time I received an obliging letter from Mr. Dunster, with an account of my successor’s arrival at Smyrna upon the seventeenth of April.

Hermanstadt is a fair city, consisting of well proportioned houses, regularly plaistered and covered with brick; and is incompassed with an intire brick wall, and that again with the water either of a mote, or river, which surrounds it. Over the gate, by which we entered, is the statue of Hermannus, the founder of the place. It is designed to be yet farther fortified by the Germans; for which end they are now marking out the place of a citadel, which they propose to build so strong and regular, as thereby to curb not only this city, but the whole province. It is intirely inhabited by Saxons, and consequently by professors of the Lutheran or Augustan confession. They have here three churches, of which the cathedral is large and well adorned. The General, and German garrison, which now consists of twelve hundred men, as likewise a few other papists, are fain to be contented with a private chapel. General Rabutin is a comely, courteous, and facetious gentleman, of severe discipline, and prudent management of the Imperial soldiery, which thro this whole province, to the number of about ten thousand men, is committed to his charge. He is of French extraction, and was forced to fly while young, on account of a duel, from his native country to the court of Vienna; where after long service he at length obtained favour of the Princess of Holstein then wife to Chancellor Sinsendorff; who after that minister’s death condescended to marry him, and so raised him to his present pitch of fortune. The civil government is in the hands of the Judex Cibiniensis, whose jurisdiction reaches not only over this city, but even the whole Saxon district. Next to him is the Consul Cibiniensis, whose government is confined within the city. And besides these there is a senate of about sixteen, and then a commonalty of about an hundred men. The place in Latin is called Cibinium, from the adjoining river Cibin.

Before eleven a clock we again take up our quarters at Visakna, that is, Saltzburg, so called from the salt mines; which I visited this afternoon, in company with the minister of the place, Joannes Nagy Borosnyai of the Helvetian confession. The salt is here dug, and cut into stones (as they call them) of a square figure, and about an hundred pound in weight. Being so prepared in the cavern, which at the bottom extends itself very wide in the manner of a dome, they are drawn up by cables, of which one winds round an adjoining machine drawn by four horses, and the other unwinds at the same time. The pit itself is square, lined within with planks, as far as the earthy soil reaches, and extending afterwards to the depth of about an hundred yards. These stones are afterwards laid up in magazines, to be transported on occasion by the Maros into the Danube, and thence vended into Turkey or Germany for the use of the Emperor, who is the sole proprietor of all the natural mines, with which this province abounds. The above mentioned minister here gave me some gemmae salis, as pellucid as ordinary crystal. He is a man well learned, and has traveled into many countries, particularly England. At the same place I likewise received a present of some specimina metallica, namely gold, cinnabar, antimony, and others; which were sent me by a gentleman, named Samuel Koloseri, the Emperor’s general inspector of the Transylvanian mines.

May xix.

We depart hence for Tsanad and arrive there before twelve a clock; from whence his Excellency designing for Enyed by the way of Balasfalva, Mr. Montague, Mr. Gangain, and myself take this opportunity of steping out of the way to see Alba Julia, or Wissenburg. We therefore hire a post calash by five a clock in the afternoon, and it being distant three long Hungarian miles in dirty way, we scarce arrive there by twelve at night, having near the city crossed the Maurusius over a wooden bridge. In our way thither we saw a gang of Zingans, or gypses, common in this and the neighbouring provinces, as well as Turkey.

May xx.

His Excellency continued his journey this day to Balasfalva; and in the morning we at Abba Julia wait on the governor, Count Banti, a worthy and courteous protestant nobleman, but for many years weakened and tormented with the colic. We were conducted to him thro the room, where the comitia totius Transylvaniae are now held; and where Count Seau, commissary for his Imperial Majesty, solicites the states for raising of subsidies, and proposes other orders to them from the court of Vienna. This done, we visit likewise Count Seau; who was so complaisant as to shew us the castle where he dwells, being a magnificent palace, and lately the residence of the princes of Transylvania. At the same time we viewed the large Calvinist church adjoining thereto, which is a lofty and stately fabric, but has suffered much from the Tartars, who defaced the fair monuments, and burnt the tower, in the year sixteen hundred and fifty eight. It is now fortified with a ditch and rampart, which is likewise usual all over Transylvania. The above mentioned monuments are of Joannes Corvinus, commonly called Huniades; of Queen Isabella, and her son Ladislaus; of Sigismund, and George Ragotzi, together with the famous Gabriel Bethlen. The same morning we paid a visit to the bishop of the reformed church in Transylvania, who resides here, and is likewise pastor of the place, by name Stephanus Vespreni. He is an old man, seems decayed in his parts, and is troubled with a palsy in his tongue. With him we saw the professor of the Schola Albensis, which in the year sixteen hundred seventy two was translated hither from Patak in Hungary. He is a learned, curious, and laborious man, teaches divinity, natural philosophy, the tongues, and mathematics; has traveled into England and other countries, and is a great admirer of the English; for which reason his study is full of our books, and he both writes, and speaks, and even teaches our language once a week to his scholars. His name is Kaposi Samuel, and was made S. Theologiae Doctor by a diploma from the Prince of Orange. These visits performed, we repair to Count Banti’s to diner, where we were honoured with a splendid feast; the governor keeping his chamber. There sat at table the Lady governess, who is of the family of Bethlen, with Countess Bethlen Samuel, Count Bethlen Nicolas chancellor of the states of Transylvania, Count Apór treasurer, Count Holler president of the states (the two last papists) together with Count Telchi, Joannes Sacks the Judex regius Cibiniensis, with Count Seau, and some others. After diner we spent some time with professor Kaposi, and at night supped with Count Seau.

May xxi.

His Excellency staid this whole day at Balasfalva; and we the morning at Alba Julia, which was antiently called Apulum[119], where we imployed ourselves in viewing some Roman sculptures, and copying the three following inscriptions.

I. O. M. ET DIIS

PENATIBVS

SCAVRIANVS

MINERVAE TIB.

JVLIVS NOVIA

NVS II ... LEG.

POSVIT

PRO SALVTE DO

MINI NOSTRI

SANCTISSIMI AN

TONINI PII AVGVS

TI NYMPHIS NOVIS[120]

SACRVM RVFRI

VS[121] SVLPICIA ...

LEG. XIII. G ...

ANIO

At midday we dined with Count Seau, and by two a clock taking leave of the governor, we set forward in a calash for Enyed[122], two Hungarian miles distant from hence, where we arrived before seven, the road lying all the way near the banks of the Maurusius.

May xxii.

We take a calash this morning, and proceed about an hour from Enyed to meet his Excellency, at the place where he crossed the Maurusius by flat boats; which done, we wait on him back to Enyed, and there arrive about one a clock. After diner I visited the school and college of this place, which is reputed the most flourishing of those, that belong to the reformed Calvinist church in Transylvania. It has three professors, one of philosophy, Stephanus Kolosvari, who has traveled into England; another of divinity, Stephanus Engedi, a learned man, who gave me a popish book, concerning the Emperor’s treatment of the reformed churches in Hungary; and a third of the Greek tongue, logic, and history, Fr. Pariz-Papa, a physician, who presented me with some printed tracts of his own, and a manuscript Itinerary of Dr. Basire prebendary of Durham, left by him in Alba Julia, where he professed divinity during the late usurpation in England.

May xxiii.

We proceed three Hungarian miles from Enyed to Therda, where we arrive about one a clock, and find it a dirty ill built town, but remarkable for its salt pits. It has two Calvinist churches, with one appropriated to the Unitarians. The town stands upon the Aranyas, antiently the Chrysolas, in which the Zingans find gold dust, principally after rain.

May xxiv.

It being Whitsunday, his Excellency halted this day, and in his lodgings had divine service and a sermon. After diner we visit the salt pits, which altogether resemble those of Visakna, except that the salt seems somewhat clearer and stronger. Returning we find the following Roman inscription.

ISIDI

ET SERAPI

C. IVL. ANN

ISONVS ...

LEG. V. M. HO.

ET FL. APO

LINARIA ...

EIVS V. L. S

May xxv.

We proceed three Hungarian miles to Clausenburg, the Zeugma of the antients, by the Hungarians called Kolosvar, and in Latin Claudiopolis. Here Governor Banti met my Lord half a mile out of the town, and treated him at diner; after which taking leave, he presented him with a set of six fine coach horses. It is a fair city with a broad and straight street; but still retains on the houses and churches the marks of a dreadful fire, which about five years since almost entirely consumed it. It is seated upon the first branch of the river Samos, and is entirely surrounded with an antient thick wall, on the inside of which I was shewn the two following inscriptions, the latter whereof has the characters beautifully cut.

FORTVNAE AVG.

V L P. MASCV

LINVS VTE. EX

SIGNIF. LEG. V. M.

TE EC. COL. AP. PRO

SA. SVA. TE. SVOR. PL

D. M.

M. AVREL ... PAPIA .. AVG. COL. N. AP[123].

VIXIT ANNIS LX

AVRELIA BONA CONIVX MA

RITO ER. H. CIENO ... VM[124] CV

RAVIT

The Unitarians, who are one of the sects received in Transylvania, have here established their principal seat. I conversed with one of them, Stephanus Stanizlo, professor of philosophy, with whom I visited their plebanus, or chief pastor, and saw their church and college. I likewise visited the Calvinist pastor, as also their church and college, where I saw M. B. Nemethi their professor of philosophy, Sam. Nemethi the divinity professor being absent. In several public places of the city I observed antient dates of time, particularly over one of the gates, where the year was marked, with these characters, that is 1477; and over the Unitarian college thus, , which is 1476[125]. Here Count Bethlen’s commission ending, his Excellency is provided for by Baron Vesselini.

May xxvi.

We stay this day at Clausenburg. The next we proceed two Hungarian miles to Erdicurestúr, where I lodge in a poor Valach house. And the day following we make the like progress thro woods and narrow vales to Balashaza, upon the river Almasch.

May xxix.

Two more Hungarian miles thro the like way bring us to Zilak, a reformed Calvinist village, where I visited the chief pastor, Stephanus Foris Debreezeni. Within half an hour of this place we passed certain mountains very woody, but not exceeding high, which part Transylvania from Hungary; after which we now enter into those parts of Hungary, which lately gave part of his title to the prince of Transylvania.

May xxxi.

Passing two Hungarian miles thro a country more open and well improved, we arrive at Somlyo; in which there is an old palace, once a seat of residence for the kings of Hungary. Here the guards and commissary is again changed, Franciscus Trantzeni, an Hungarian gentleman, now taking that charge. As we continued in this town the following day, I had an opportunity of conversing with the minister, whose name is Zovány.

June i.

We set forward three Hungarian miles to Margarita, and in the way cross the Krasna, near which are the limits that terminate the parts of Hungary. The soil is here luxuriantly rich, well varied with pasture and intervening woods, and everywhere adorned with damask roses, growing wild on short shrubs. Part of my time was here employed in discoursing with the minister, Johannes Banki. But having now passed thro Transylvania, as well as the parts of Hungary subject to the same government, it is here proper to recollect some general observations relating to this province.

Transylvania, which for many years had been tributary to the Turks, and consequently under the protection of that empire, which still allowed them the choice and government of their own princes, was in the year 1687, under the conduct of the Duke of Lorrain, subjected to the arms of the Emperor; and thereupon by capitulation they resigned themselves to the Germans, under whom they have since continued, tho as yet the Emperor has assumed no distinct title from thence. He has ordinarily in garrison here about twelve regiments, which since the peace of Carlowítz serve rather to curb the inhabitants, than to awe the neighbouring Turk. To this end they are now preparing a strong citadel in Hermanstadt, and designing others in proper places, on pretence of charges due to these forts and the standing militia. The Emperor exacts yearly severe taxes, of which they generally complain, as being four times more than was exacted by the Turk. For whereas they then paid the yearly tribute and exaction of about two hundred thousand floreni Rhenenses, there is this year particularly demanded from them, in the present assembly of the government at Alba Julia, the sum of one million forty thousand six hundred, which is charged for the following particulars. The

Quantum militare, 750,000.

Ad fortalitia, 100,000.

Debitum principis Duca[126], 65,600.

Bonificationes superoneratis, 60,000.

Ad salarium camellariae, 15,000.

Inevitabiles extraordinariae expensae 50,000.

These subsidies are demanded at the assembly in the Emperor’s name, by his commissary, Count Seau; and the care of levying and raising it is incumbent on the governor, the chancellor, the treasurers, the assessores tabulae regiae, with other officers and members of the assembly. Thus the civil government of the province is committed to the Transylvanian nobility, distinguished by the officers abovementioned; but the military government is, in the hands of General Rabutin, who holds the province to a rigid and exact obedience.

Transylvania is in the hands of three distinct people. First the Szekeli, which are otherwise corruptly wrote Sciculi, Siculi, or Scytuli[127]. The second are the Saxones. And the third are the Hungari. The first and third of these speak the same Hungarian language, and are Hunns of the same original, only settled in this country at different times. The Saxons speak intirely the German Saxon language, from which nation they are a colony, and settled here under Geysa the second King of Hungary.

They have each of them their distinct laws, customs, and privileges, and are severally divided after this manner. First the Szekeli into seven szeks, namely: Meros-szék, Udvarhel-szék, Harom-szék, Kesdi Orba Sepsi-szék, Csik-szék, Gyorgy-szék, and Arangus-szék. Over each of these seats preside so many captains; and being a warlike robust people, still retaining the ferity of the Scythians, of which the whole body of the Hunni was at first a colony, they have been always exempted from taxes and duties to the government, except only the service of war upon occasion under their respective captains. But of late the Emperor has persuaded them to submit to the like taxes and duties, with all other his Transylvanian subjects. On account of their not holding their lands of the government, there is a peculiar custom obtaining among them, that in defect of heirs their estate escheats not to the government, but to the next neighbour.

The Saxons have in like manner their seven seats alloted from their first settlement, namely: Szerdaky-szék, Szeben-szék, Brassoy-szék, Medyes-szék, Segyvar-szék, Bestereze-szék, and Erdovidek-szék. Each of these seats have their capital city, called Regia et libera civitas. Over this city, and the seat or district belonging to it, presides a judex regius, called in their language, konings rickter. But the authority and prerogative of the Judex Cibiniensis, that is of Hermanstadt, extends itself over the several Saxon seats; except that he of Brassow or Cronstadt pretends in many cases an exemption, which has been allowed, because of its too great distance from the tribunal of Szeben, or Hermanstadt. Besides the authority of this judge, there is a subordinate government in each city by a senate, which ordinarily consists of about sixteen, and a centumvirate or commonalty, tho it seldom contains a complete hundred. Each in their several districts have the jus gladii, and all other prerogatives of an intire jurisdiction.

The third and richer part of Transylvania, possessed by the Hungarians, is supposed and called the seat of the only Transylvanian nobility; and accordingly it is divided into seven comitatus, or residences, of its several courts, namely: The comitatus Huniadensis, Albensis, Thordensis, Claudiopolitanus, Interior et Exterior Zolnokiensis, Doboczensis, and Krasnaiensis. Now each of these counties has four comites, of which two are called supremi, and two inferiores; in whose hands, together with other nobles under them, remain the whole jurisdiction and possession of their respective counties; the other inhabitants being not only tenants, but subjects, as they call them, and in some manner slaves to their respective nobles, to whom they ordinarily owe the work of three, and sometimes of more days in the week.

Besides these, the Valachi are every where in great numbers intermixted among the Transylvanian nations, but have no jurisdiction or dominion of their own; and therefore they remain as nourishers of cattle, and in that service slaves and subjects to the rest. And not only Valachs[128], but likewise (tho in lesser numbers) there are found up and down in Transylvania, Rascians, Muscovites, Armenians, Jews, and others.

Those called the received religions in Transylvania, that is, those who above the space of an age have obtained the protection of their princes under oath, and of the Emperor under articles upon their late subjection, are four; the Roman Catholic; the Lutheran; the Calvinist, which is here called peculiarly the Reformed; and the Unitarian. The first of these is more frequent in Szekulia, but yet not so prevalent as to possess even a tenth part of all Transylvania. The second, or Lutheran, is common to all the Saxon nation in this province. The third flourishes in Szekulia, and the comitatus Hungarici. The fourth prevails here and there likewise in the same countries, but those who profess it are not so numerous in either. However they have a flourishing college at Clausenberg, together with a large church; tho neither for beauty, nor the number of its communicants, equal to that of the Calvinist confession. These several religions are well known, and distinguished by their faith and principles, all over Europe. I shall therefore only say this concerning the discipline of the three last, that their several parishes collected into distinct dioceses are subject to their respective seniors; and these seniors, in their order, are likewise subject to a provincial bishop, who has his court, in which he judges matrimonial and other spiritual causes, and has also the sole power of ordaining, as likewise of calling and presiding over their yearly synod. And to this synod there is adjoined a consistory, which is in the nature of an upper house, and a council to the bishop.

The Lutheran churches are in many places splendid, adorned with organs and pictures, and little differing from the form of our larger churches, except that the altar is immoveable, and built of stone, and sometimes too profusely painted. Their worship consists of forms of prayers, then hymns, after these lessons and sermons, and lastly prayers and concluding hymns. The worship of the Unitarians exactly corresponds with that of the Calvinists. These latter have sermons twice a week, besides Sundays, as also morning and evening service throughout the week, at which appear large and devout congregations in many places. Their service is a metre psalm, a prayer from the pulpit, and then concludes with another psalm. They have a form of prayer, and an injunction of their bishop to make use of no other; but the custom of most ministers has introduced the use of their own premeditated devotions, and accordingly the people begin to disesteem those, who confine themselves to the form. The Lutherans, Calvinists, and Unitarians live peaceably with one another; but are not admitted to each others communion of Christ’s body, without a special declaration of conformity. The Lutherans in some places consecrate a wafer, and in other places leaven bread. They likewise have auricular confession, but abuse it not, as the Papists. Their main difference from the Calvinists consists in their avowed corporeal ubiquitarian presence. Among other known tenets of the Unitarians, by which they take away the force of the Christian sacraments, tho they generally use infant baptism not to give scandal to the Calvinists, yet they rather wish to delay it till the age of twelve years or upwards, and often practice accordingly.

These three protestant religions remain as yet in the undisturbed profession of their faith. But upon several late encroachments of the Jesuits, and other priests, in confidence of the popish government, to which they are subject; upon the withdrawing of the tithes usually paid to the protestant ministers from the salt mines, and now given to popish monks; and lastly upon the care, which is taken by the court of Vienna, to supply all offices of the province with papist ministers: upon these several accounts, I say, the whole reformed people of Transylvania, especially the Calvinists, begin to be under great apprehensions, and from the governor to the meanest gentleman, earnestly embraced this occasion of recommending their cause to the good services of his Excellency at the Imperial court; after which they implored the prayers and good wishes of the church of England, and in many places took a solemn melancholy leave of us, as if they were just entering upon a martyrdom.

The religion of the Valachs, Muscovites, Armenians, Rascians, and others, is that of their respective nations in their proper seats and countries. And it may be farther noted in relation to the religion of Transylvania, that as in Hungary, so here likewise, the Jesuits, who were before excluded by a positive article, have now an express liberty of entering and setling in this province. Nor can I omit to remark the great and blameable facility both of the Calvinists, and Lutherans, in matters of divorce.

After the religion of Transylvania, the natural soil of the country falls under consideration; which is luxuriantly rich, well cultivated, full of inhabitants, and conveniently distinguished with a sufficient quantity of wood, hills, and water. The surface of the earth is almost every where black, without the least stone to be observed in many places; and in several tracts so fertile, as not to require the advantage of dung, except only some parts of Siculia where it is used. Besides all kinds of grain, which grow on the surface of the earth, within it abounds with veins of metals, minerals, and fossils of all sorts, particularly of gold; so that, as I was informed by the Emperor’s inspector of his mines, there was last year dug here to the value of twenty five thousand zechins. But among other fossils the native cinnabar is most rare, and the quicksilver which is here found to perfection. Salt is dug in several places, in the manner described above[129]; by which a large revenue accrues to the Emperor, to whom the property of all mines belongs. But in the mean time the people suffer in the price of this commodity; for since their late subjection to the Emperor, a stone of salt weighing about an hundred pounds can scarce be bought for three florins, whereas heretofore three stones of salt were sold for one florin. The money current in Transylvania is that of the Emperor, the quarts of Poland, with some other coins. The reports related by some, who were eye witnesses, concerning diverse particles of gold found in the products of their vineyards, both here and about the celebrated mountain of Tokái, are very remarkable; of which I shall only mention these following. A piece of gold is said to have grown to a vine, instead of the green tendrel, by which it takes hold of the adjoining trees, or other substance that supports it. Pure gold was found in a grape, instead of its ordinary natural stone. Small gold drops were observed to adhere to the skin of a grape. And even an intire grape had been seen to consist of a perfect coat of gold.

As to the temper and disposition of the inhabitants, they appear cordial and hospitable, drink almost continually, and eat plentifully, are unpolite but importunate in their civility, and even the vulgar sort usually speak Latin; they are of a robust constitution, and principally the Siculians, who have likewise a fierce and stately mein. Their habit is a short waistcoat made very close to the body[130], and sleeves with flaps to them, that come over the backs of their hands. Their breeches are likewise close to their thighs, and from thence continued down in the form of a stocking to their feet. But on their legs they commonly wear yellow or red boots, to which are constantly fixed spurs, often three inches long. Over their waistcoat, when they go abroad, they throw a loose but short fur vest, which is either embroidered, or adorned with silver loops, on each side before. The habit of the women, who for the most part are beautiful and courteous, is a close narrow bodice, and from thence petticoats, as usual with us in England; but over their arms they wear loose linen sleeves, resembling those of a bishop’s rochet. Their head dress is low, and among those of the better sort richly adorned with pretious stones; much resembling some old English pictures, particularly those of Henry the eighth’s wives. They likewise wear over their shoulders the same sort of fur vest, as the men; but the inferior sort are usually drest, when abroad, in a long and loose black mantle, reaching from their shoulders down to the ground, and all round gathered into deep and numberless folds, not unlike the gowns worn by the islanders in the Archipelago. Maids likewise wear a black ring of velvet on their head, which they call a crown, and resembles the figure of an hat without brims. With regard to matrons, their law formerly admitted no proof of adultery, unless under the eye witness of twenty four persons at least; which in a virtuous age was an egregious testimony to the chastity of their women, but in a vitious one must needs prove too great an encouragment to that heinous sin. The Hungarians and Siculians have an odd fashion of shaving their head round the lower part, and leaving the hair at the top, which afterwards they tie into a knot, and let it hang over one or other of their temples. This custom they might possibly have received of old from the Sicambrians (who once built the city Sicambria, and settled a colony there) since they were antiently famed for the like manner of knotting of their hair[131]. We may further observe a certain infelicity of Transylvania, as well as the adjoining parts of Hungary, in persuading themselves at least, that they are infested with witchcraft. For women of all ages are yearly executed for that crime, and this commonly upon evidence of their having threatned mischief to their neighbours, their children, goods, cattle, or other effects, and some correspondent effect, which has seemed afterwards to happen. In the Saxon seats of Transylvania they often put them to that vulgar trial of water; and I have heard it avowed by those, who have declared themselves to have been eye witnesses, that some suspected persons could never sink below the surface of the water, when others immediately subsided to the bottom[132]. And in such cases the poor afflicted, tortured, and now perhaps distracted person, confesses the indictment, and then without the least repreive is committed to the faggot. But as ignorant places have been always reputed most subject to witchcraft, this very well suits the state of Transylvania; where every petty district is the seat of its own judicature, and the power of life and death is consequently lodged in illiterate and superstitious persons.

June ii.

But it is now time to proceed on our journey, in which one Hungarian mile and a half carried us to Szekhelyhíd, where his Excellency lodged in the house of a popish prelate, by name Joannes Smitz, of the order of the Praemonstratenses, a gentile and agreable person. In his parlour, where he had an altar and crucifix, I observed over the former a profane picture of the Holy Trinity, representing an Old Man, with his Son sitting betwixt his legs, and at the son’s feet the Holy Ghost in the shape of a dove.

June iii.

Three Hungarian miles and a half farther brought us this day to Debrecyn, thro a rich soil, not destitute of wood, nor water; the latter of which is plentifully found in this countrey, as also in Transylvania and Valachia, by reason of its frequent and extended lakes; tho fountains are scarce any where to be observed. This city has lately obtained the privilege of being libera et regia from the Emperor, in consideration of its late grievous oppressions between the Turkish and German forces; since which, like other free cities, it is governed by its own judge, senate, and commonalty. It is large and populous, and sets up for the bulwark of the reformed church in Hungary; which character it maintains by its large and well disciplined college of almost two hundred students, under the care of two eminent professors; one of divinity, named Johannes Koes, who is likewise bishop or superintendent of the province; and the other of philosophy, whose name is Michael Vaári. As this college is kept in good repair, so the students are allowed their constant diet, and the professors receive their salary, at the sole charge of the city. There are likewise two spatious churches, served by three able and learned pastors, Thomas Veresedgyhazi, Michael Rapoti, and Stephanus Patai. The city is likewise furnished at the public charge with a capacious and well stored dispensary.

Before his Excellency approached this place, he was complimented by several messengers from the mayor, who commands the militia here, then by the judge, senators, and others; and at length by the bishop, professors, pastors, and scholars. With this retinue his Excellency entered the city, which was orderly lined with arms as far as his lodgings. These were appointed for him in the house of one Stephanus Dobozi, a rich, generous, and learned gentleman; who among other public designs is now undertaking to print a new version of the Hungarian Bible, to be distributed among the reformed Christians of that kingdom.

June iv.

This being Corpus Christi day, his Excellency continued at Debrecyn; at which time I took the opportunity of visiting the bishop, professors, and pastors of the town, the first of whom presented me with an handkerchief of the Hungarian fashion. I was introduced to them by one Paul Gyongyóssi, who met us in this place from a neighbouring cure. He had lately traveled into England, and resided sometime in Glocester Hall, Oxford, where he was known to my brother of dear memory. But in his return home thro Vienna his books were seized, to the value of five hundred florins, by Cardinal Colonicza, archbishop of Strigonium; on which account he now solicited the favour and interest of his Excellency. He presented me with the Canones Ecclesiae Reformatae Hungariae.

June v.

This morning the judge and magistrates of Debrecyn presented his Excellency with a gentile sword, and two small vessels of the best Tokái wine. And after traveling one Hungarian mile and a half thro a dead extended plain, void of tree or shrub, we came to Ujvaros. Here I first took notice of the Hungarian sheep, which are distinguished from most others by their horns, which are long, straight, and twisted; also by their wool, which is exceeding coarse.

June vi.

Three Hungarian miles thro the same level and naked plain brought us this day to Csege, which is a pass over the Tibiscus. In our way hither we had in view on the right hand, at the distance of about five miles, the celebrated mountain of Tokái, in compass about ten Hungarian miles, and renowned for its generous wines. At the aforesaid Csege we ferry over the Tibiscus in two large flat bottomed boats, thence we travel for some time with the river on our right hand, and then strike into the plain to Csat, a large village about one Hungarian mile from Csege, where we fix our quarters.

June vii.

His Excellency stayed this day at Csat, at which time I had some conversation with the minister, Stephanus Szirák, formerly a traveler in England. Here I took notice of the fair, white, and stately cattle of Hungary; and walked in the feilds, to enjoy a more distinct prospect of the mountain Tokái.

June viii.

We proceed one Hungarian mile and a half thro the same plain to Proszlo, which is situated on a large and diffused lake, supplied by the Tibiscus, into which it empties itself. In our way hither, we left at a near distance on our right hand the city Agria, and the mountains denominated from thence.

June ix.

We move one Hungarian mile and a half forward in the same plain, and at the same distance from the mountains of Agria, to Alány. Before diner his Excellency with a retinue went an English mile from hence, in order to visit a new country house and garden belonging to the worthy General Glychensberg; who by donation from the Emperor possesses great part of this village, as likewise of that where we lodged last night. I had here an occasion to observe the Hungarian houses under ground, having unawares like to have dropt into a chimney. We took notice likewise of a plica Polonica in the hair of his Excellency’s landlord; who told us, that it being once cut off by his wife, he became perfectly blind for three months, and did not recover his sight, till the plica was grown out and formed again. The same thing is common to most horses in this country.

June x.

From Alány we go on this day two Hungarian miles to Arokszalles, thro the same plain, the soil of which is as black as coal, and in most places overrun with weeds and marshes for want of tillage. In the midway we cross the small river Both, by which is a posthouse of the same name. Arokszalles is a popish village, the first of that sort we had seen in Hungary. It belongs to the Prince of Newburg, Grand Master of the Teutonic order, who has bought lately of the Emperor a large compass of ground on both sides the Tibiscus for a million of florins. From our quarters we have in view to the right of our road, at the foot of a pleasant tract of mountains, the city Gyongyossi, lately taken from the Protestants (as they told us at Debrecyn) by the injuries of the Jesuits and other Romanists.

June xi.

We continue our journey one Hungarian mile to Hatwan, thro the same plain, along the foss of an antient Roman camp. The hills of Gyongyóssi are still at a near distance on our right hand, in which four Hungarian miles from Arokszalles is the famous gold mine of Kremnytz, with others of silver, iron, and other minerals, in the same neighbourhood. Hatwan was lately a walled city, and is now inhabited by Romanists, being the property of the Prince of Solmes, grand master to the King of the Romans. The Emperor constantly employs five hundred labourers in the mines of Kremnytz, tho of late years they are said to fail. At Hatwan, as in all Hungary, I observed the method of burying their corn in holes under ground, as Hirtius remarks of the Africans[133].

June xii.

At Hatwan we immediately cross the small river Zagywa, and thence proceed one Hungarian mile and half thro a pleasant variety of woods and pastures, valleys and hills, to Kerepes; where at a neat German house his Excellency staid to breakfast, and then went forward the same length of way thro a naked, tho not so level a plain, to Pest. At his entry here he is saluted by the canon from the opposite castle of Buda, and lodged at the Fountain inne. Pest is now a small but compact city, intirely built out of the ruins, to which it was reduced by the two late sieges of Buda. Its antient wall, with the battlements and bastions, is still intire, and incloses it in the figure of an half moon, terminating on the banks of the Danube, which completes the remaining circuit of the city. There are still extant three or four minarées of Turkish mosques, now devoted to Christian use. But what gives just offence both to Turks and Christians is a new pillar, erected in the market place, and bearing on its top a large stone sculpture of the Trinity; a figure as common, as it is scandalous, in Germany.

June xiii.

This day his Excellency remained here, which gave Mr. Paget and myself an opportunity of passing over to Buda on a flying bridge, which is maintained by the city Pest. The famous city of Buda is the capital of Hungary, and was the seat of its Kings till the year fifteen hundred twenty nine, when by treachery it fell into the hands of Solymán the Great; since which it was several times attempted by the Christian arms, but never successfully, till the year sixteen hundred sixty eight. And it yet remains in the same condition, in which that terrible siege had left it, with regard to its fortifications; but the private houses, especially those of the Rascian and Water Town, are again handsomely rebuilt. That, which is called the Upper Town, is likewise begining to be reinhabited, but not equally with the other two. The situation of the whole city lies in the following manner. From the banks of the Danube, which here runs N. W. and S. E. there arises a steep and oblong hill, the length of about half a mile, and the hight of about two hundred paces, on which stands, what is called the Upper Town. This on the N. W. end has that famous castle, which was the palace of the Hungarian Kings; and from thence the walls and other fortifications are continued round the town. On both ends of the hill are two small valleys, each of which has a large suburb; that on the N. W. end called the Rascian, and that on the S. E the Water Town. The latter of these is larger, and much better built; and extends itself not only in the valley above mentioned, but likewise betwixt the Danube and a great part of the hill, on which the wall and Upper Town is built. Just beyond the Rascian Town is a steep and sharp rocky hill, which in case of a siege must needs annoy the castle; and along the backside of the city wall is extended, at a nearer distance, another rising ground, which must likewise gall that side of the fortification. These therefore the Imperialists must possess with proper forts, whenever they undertake to repair the wall and castle of Buda; the present remains of which were shewn us this morning by the lieutenant of the ordnance, the most remarkable whereof were these which follow. The hall of the royal palace, in which the carved windows, chimney pieces, and other decorations, shewed the work of an excellent hand; and were embelished, among other devises, with the arms of Matthias Corvinus. The several canons, mortar pieces, bombs, and other artillery, which make the present ammunition of the castle. The two breaches, one entered by the Bavarians, and the other by the Imperialists, when they took the place. The wooden gate, hewn at the bottom by the Imperialists, which action gave the last rout to the Turks. The stone arched chamber, which they maintained to the last; tho the Bavarians had been many days lodged in the next adjoining apartment, and nothing but a single wall remained betwixt the two enemies. The well and capacious cistern, sufficient to afford water for that numerous Turkish garrison, which at first consisted of twenty four thousand men. What else occurs observable in this place, is first the prospect, which we took from the Water Town of old Buda, or Sicambria of the Romans, about an English mile from hence, up the stream of the river. And secondly, the famous sulphureous baths, exactly opposite to the city Pest, which are supplied by a plentiful hot fountain, that runs from the steep rocky hill before mentioned in the neighbourhood of the Rascian Town.

At midday we were invited to diner by the administrator, or chief civil magistrate of the place. By his office he is president of the camera Budensis, which consists of twelve officers, and enjoys great revenues, as well as an entire jurisdiction for many miles round the city. His Imperial Majesty has about fourteen hundred men in Garrison at Buda and Pest, under General Pefferhoft, who was now gone to demolish the fortifications of Erla; it being the Emperor’s design to divest this country of all its lesser forts, which at this juncture might be a refuge to any rebellious subjects. The whole country of Hungary to this place is a black and rich soil, without one stone to be observed, except in towns; and abounds with lakes. The wine of Buda exactly resembles that of Bourdeaux, and for these two last years, by an agent of the Earl of Nottingham, has began to be imported into England, by the way of Breslaw.

June xiv.

Early this morning we depart from Buda, when his Excellency was again saluted by the guns of the castle. Three Hungarian miles thro a rich, woody, and well watered country bring us to Biéske; a village where the Protestant are most numerous, but were nevertheless deprived of the parish church last year by the Romanists.

June xv.

Three more Hungarian miles carry us this day to Koes, thro a continued wood, wherein are observable many curious trees, herbs, and flowers, particularly the fraxinella; to say nothing of the damask roses, hyacinths, barbaréae, lilia convallium, and some others, obvious in our whole road thro Hungary.

June xvi.

From Koes, where his Excellency lodged the last night, in an house of Count Estzerhazi, Palatin of Hungary, it is one Hungarian mile to Igmand, at which we arrive by eight a clock this morning. And one mile from thence toward the right hand we stop to see the city and fort of Komora. In a post calash we arrive on the banks of the Danube by ten a clock, and passing over in a boat enter the city, which is seated on the point of the island Schut, where it is washed on one side by the Danube itself; and on the other by that branch of it, which takes the name of Wag, from that river falling into it not far above the city Komora. The extreme point of this island is possessed by the castle and fort, consisting of four bastions, and an angle at the farther end, which represents the figure of a tortoise. Before the gate and drawbridge there is a place of arms, and before that another strait fortification with two bastions and an half moon, added by the present Emperor. This was the last bulwark against the Turks, before the success of the last war, and is called the Virgin Fort, in token of its having never been taken by the enemy. To perpetuate the memory of this, the statue of a virgin is erected in one angle of that bastion, which is on the left hand at the entrance of the place. After this view of the castle we content ourselves with a slighter view of the town, which appears neat and compact; and by two a clock return to his Excellency’s quarters at Igmand, the whole way lying over a green, naked, and level plain. In the castle of Komora I found the three following inscriptions, two of them in Latin, and the third in Greek, which are cut upon stone coffins.

D. M.

M. VAL. VALERIANI LEG.

IIII FL. VIXIT AN. XLII

ET M. VAL. VLPIO EQ. PV

BL. FIL. VIXIT AN. VIII SIMV

L CONDITIS VLPIA PARA

TIANE MARITO ET FILIO

ET VLPIA VALERIA FILIA

HEREDES F. C.

D. M.

MEMORIAE IVLI

AE EMERITAE QVAE VI

XIT AN I̶I̶I̶ VALERIA MASO

LENIA FILIAE PIISSIMAE

ΠΑΛΜΥΡΙ ΕΥΨΥΧΕΙ ΜΕΤΑ ΠΑΤΡΟΣ

June xvii.

Our next stage, which was three Hungarian miles, brought us from Igmand to Rab, thro a level country, and well cultivated. Half an hour before we enter the town, his Excellency is met by a troop of Hussars well mounted, and each man carrying a small flag in his hand. Rab, which is the proper government of the Prince of Baden, is pleasantly seated at the confluence of the rivers Rab and Rabnitz, which unite near the walls of the castle, and then in one stream immediately fall into the Danube. The castle is large, and well fortified with seven bastions, four cavaliers, and proportionable outworks. It contains within an ample space of ground, possessed with houses, and divided into streets, which make the best part of the city, the rest being more scattered and diffused on both sides of the Rabnitz. It is now about a century, since this place was taken from the Turks by a stratagem of Count Schaurtzenburg, who applying a petard to one of the gates in the night, at one stroke blew open the great iron door, which flew many paces within the town, and is now kept as a memorial of the fact in the cathedral church. The Turks marched in the sight of this garrison to the siege of Vienna, and received several shot from thence; and at their return, had the Imperialists of this place known their defeat, they might have intercepted their passage, by cutting down the bridges of the Rab.

June xviii.

His Excellency staying this day at Rab, I took the opportunity of visiting Stephanus Morsai, the reformed minister of the place. And about ten a clock Mr. Stepney, her Majesty’s Envoy Extraordinary at Vienna, with the young Earl of Bridgwater, and his brother Mr. Egerton, came to Rab to meet my Lord Paget, and welcome him into these parts.

June xix.

This day, thro frequent villages and fruitful feilds, we continue our journey two Hungarian miles to Hungrisch Altenburg, a small town with fair buildings, enclosed with a wall, and seated on the river Leyta, which at the distance of half a mile falls into the Danube. Here Mr. Stepney, my Lord Paget, and some others proceed directly to Vienna.

June xx.

Three Hungarian miles, thro a delicious and well tilled country, in sight of Presburg castle, we proceed to Pruck; just at the entrance of which we cross the Leyta, and by that means pass out of Hungary into Austria, of which Pruck is the first town in this road. It is a considerable compact place, neatly built with an appearing magnificence, which they affect by building their houses high and uniform towards the street. It has a castle and a strong wall, tho not sufficient against the present art of war. In the market place is a pillar, that bears a profane image of the Trinity, the Father in the figure of an old man, the Son standing at his right hand, and the Holy Ghost in the shape of a dove hovering betwixt their heads. Here is an handsome convent of Augustin friars, and in the market place a new church not yet finished, which promises something both beautiful and magnificent.

June xxi.

This day, being Sunday, we continue at Pruck, when I took an occasion of walking by the banks of the Leyta, in pleasant and delightful meadows.

June xxii.

Four German miles from hence bring us to Schweka, a neat village near Eberstorff; where is a palace of the Emperor, and a large park, enclosed by the Danube and the Schweka.

June xxiii.

By three in the afternoon his Excellency moves from hence, and in an hour and a half, at the distance of two German miles, happily arrives at Vienna; where he is lodged in the suburbs, betwixt the Caristhian gate and the Favorita, in a palace of Count Sterembergh. After the repose of a day or two his Excellency had a separate audience of the Emperor, and Empress, the Archduke Carlo, and the four Archdutchesses. And being visited by most of the nobility, courtiers, and ministers of the place, he afterwards took occasion of returning their respective visits.

Vienna is seated on a point of land, made by the confluence of the river Wien and a branch of the Danube, which latter here enlarges itself about a thousand paces from its main chanel. The city is of a moderate circumference, scarce containing more than four thousand paces within the circuit of the walls; but round these, at a large distance, are extended many diffused suburbs, by means of which it may be placed among the larger cities of Europe. The fortifications are effective, regular, and intire; a large uninterrupted glacis, a strong pale, a deep and wide foss, a substantial curtain lined with brick, thirteen bastions, and as many ravelins, with six well defended gates. Answerable to these there are two arsenals within the city; one for ammunition and artillery belonging to the Emperor, and the other for small arms belonging to the citizens. The streets, tho few of them broad, are yet all of them fair and moderately straight, ranged on each side with lofty houses of four or five stories high, built with a good appearance, tho not really magnificent; for they shew a regularity of architecture in their windows, cornishes, and water tables, but the materials are only brick walls incrusted in imitation of freestone. Among the buildings of the city are interspersed several oblong piazzas, adorned with fountains, tho of no great art or curiosity. Yet there are two squares, each of which exhibits a considerable public monument; one being the pillar of the Blessed Virgin, and the other that of the most Holy Trinity. The former of these is a brass column, adorned round the four corners of the basis with as many figures of angels, and on the chapiter bearing a noble statue of the Madonna, with her feet resting on a dragon. It was begun by the last Emperor, and finished by the present; and exhibits four religious or superstitious inscriptions, the chief of which is a triumphant declaration of the immaculate conception, as now confirmed by a papal verdict, and hence forward to be received as an article of faith. The latter pillar, called that of the Holy Trinity, is a magnificent column of marble and freestone rising sixty six feet high, almost in the form of a pyramid. It was the work of ten years, finished in 1692, at the expence of a hundred thousand florins, and erected by the present Emperor in commemoration of this city, and the dukedom of Austria, being delivered from the plague in the year 1679. It is adorned in three corners with these inscriptions, Deo Patri Creatori, Deo Filio Redemptori, Deo Spiritui Sanctificatori; and in three other places with larger devotions and dedications, composed by his Imperial Majesty. From the basis it rises in continual orbs and protuberances of clouds, surrounded with several intire angelic figures, out of which are seen the wings and heads of others. But on the top is represented in gilt brass the Most Holy Trinity: the Holy Ghost, as a dove, irradiated; the Son in an human figure, holding a cross; and the Father at his left hand, with no marks of majesty, but clothed in a loose gown, like an old man, bearing a globe in his right hand. At the bottom is the Emperor himself, kneeling indeed in a posture of devotion, but otherwise represented with more marks of honour and majesty, than the Divine Being which he adores. The figure of God the Father is very frequent in Austria, and variously expressed, some times in a nightgown and cap, and at other times with a papal crown.

The cathedral church of this place is dedicated to St. Stephen, and is a stately antient building, having an high tower adorned throughout with crotchets so strong, that it withstood several canon shot in the late siege. It is now repaired, and bears in the work the date of that year, which was 1683. On the spire it has a cross rising from between the wings of the Roman eagle, instead of the half moon, which stood there before by compact with Solymán the Magnificent. The inside of the church is divided into three isles, at the upper end of which are many magnificent altars, with at least thirty more dispersed about the pillars and other corners of the church. Near the principal of these the walls are almost covered with pictures and sculpture, superstitiously dedicated on occasion of so many vows there made; which I call therefore, in the words of that ingenious heathen poet, Tabulis sacer votivis paries. Over the great altar is placed the picture of the Madonna, by the name of Sta. Maria de Boes, brought not long since from Hungary on occasion of its having shed tears; of which, I saw one at Sancta Margarita, who pretended to be an eye witness. The anniversary of the day it was brought to Vienna, and of that, on which it wept, are celebrated by a public feast, when the Emperor likewise hears mass on the occasion. There is likewise another miraculous image of the Virgin at the lower north door of the cathedral, which is daily so thronged with worshipers on their knees, that it gives offence to the bishop of this city, who is endeavouring to suppress the picture, as well as the abuse. In this door is a white stone, worn considerably by the touch of all that enter there, as being thought to be one of those, with which St. Stephen was martyred. Round the body of the church are frequent monuments well carved, and some sculptures of the History of the Gospel, which can scarce any where be exceeded. There is likewise a new saint, whose statue of stone has been lately erected on all the bridges of Vienna. He is styled under his picture, S. Joannes Mepomienus, Martyr, who was drowned by a King of Bohemia for not discovering a confession of the Queen.