An Account of a journey from Adrianople, thro Bulgaria, Walachia, Transylvania, Hungary, Germany, Flanders, Holland, and thence to England, in the years MDCCII and MDCCIII. (continued 2)

Besides this cathedral there are four or five parochial churches, of which the most remarkable is that of St. Michael; but among such a multitude of conventual churches, and each of these furnished with a large number of altars, the parochial are in a great measure obscured. The most splendid convents of the place are first, that of the Dominicans; after this the Benedictines, formerly belonging to the Scotch; then two belonging to the Jesuits, of which one is called the Domus professa, the other the college; next the Minorite Franciscans, then the Angustines, and lastly the Capuchines. Of these the Minorite Franciscans have in their chapel a pattern of the Scala sancta; the Augustines the Capella aulica, and the pattern of the Temple of Loretto; the Capuchines a small but pretty chapel in one side of their church, wherein are buried the deceased of the Imperial family. The roof of the church belonging to the college of Jesuits is now newly painted in perspective, that is inimitable, by P. Pozzo of that society; who likewise did the celebrated perspective in the church of that society at Rome.

Vienna was made the seat of the Imperial family by Ferdinand the second, who translated it from Gratz. The imperial and royal palaces belonging to this place are, one old one in the city, usually called the Bourg; another in the suburb opposite to the Corinthian gate, called the Favorite; a third at Eberstorff, two hours distant from the city; and a fourth at Luxemburg, at the distance of two hours and a half. All these are plain, but capacious and convenient buildings; and the Emperor divides his residence betwixt them, according to the different seasons of the year. But at Schonbran, about two English miles distant from Vienna, is a new palace as yet in some measure unfinished; which is built for the King of the Romans after the Italian mode, adorned in the pinacles with statues, a gentle ascent and spatious stairs up to the entrance, beautified with a regular garden behind, and on the front two ranges of stables and offices, that form a regular square court. The rooms and apartments within are stately and well proportioned, and the doors and chimney pieces richly built with Polonian marble. Besides these, in the way to Eberstorff are to be seen the stately remains of the palace, called Neugebac; which was destroyed by the Turks in the late siege, and is not yet repaired. However there appears a regular front, consisting of proper pillars; and in some apartments of this ruined house are kept several wild beasts of great curiosity. These, with some others at Schonbran, I took an opportunity of viewing, and shall here give a brief account of them. At Neugebac are two lions, one of which is about five years old, but the most stately and majestic as can well be seen. Three cassawares, a species of bird without wings, the body of the size and shape of a sheep, the legs long and thick in proportion, the neck tall with a blue but blunt crest, the feathers black and exactly resembling those of an ostrich. Three tigers, one of a large and unusual size. Two leopards well spotted, their ears short, their head like that of a cat, but their body more approaching to a mongrel greyhound; they are swift, and hunt hares, or other creatures, which are thrown into their walk. Several lynces, nothing different (as I am informed) from the panther; they are spotted with larger circles than a tiger or leopard, and much resemble a wild cat, but exceed it in size. An hyaena, much resembling a mastif, but the nose more round and contracted, a large belly, and a brindled spotted skin. A beaver, which is a little amphibious animal, of a flat figure, with a short neck and legs, a soft and thick fur, and a bare tail. These which follow, are at Schonbran. Several wild goats, the males with large horns, and therefore by the antients called aegoceros. Two ostriches, the one five, the other fifteen years old, the head higher than the ordinary stature of a man, the feathers black, except on the tail and tip of the wings, where they are milk white, the thighs perfectly bare, the legs long and substantial, the feet divided into two broad pulpy claws, which are thought poisonous, and in figure somewhat resembling those of a camel, whence they are called in Latin camelostruthi. Two antilopes. A she elk, a timerous animal, which is made much like an hind, with a broad excrescent mouth. Three uri, in the figure of a bull, but a thicker and shorter neck, with the appearance of prodigious strength, and one of them, very large. But concerning these two last species a fuller account may be seen in Caesar, De B. Gall. Lib. vi. cap. 5.

There are three libraries in this place. One is called Bibliotheca Windhagiana, which belongs to the Dominican convent. Another is at the college of Jesuits, which is larger and better collected. But the third, which exceeds them both, and perhaps all others in these parts of the world, is that, which belongs to the Emperor at his palace in this city. In the Dominican library I saw a monstrous human foetus kept in spirits of wine; with another dried and stuffed, which is double in all its parts, as having two heads, four hands, four legs, and two trunks as far as the navel, where they unite into one body. But what I observed in the Caesarian library will deserve a more distinct relation, which I shall give in the following particulars.

The most eminent Greek Mss. in the Catalogue of Nesselius, with other curiosities by him mentioned, and particularly the pictures belonging to the res vestiaria of the antients; all which may be seen in the catalogue which I had there with me.

Besides what occurs in the Nesselian Catalogue, the antient Ambrosian Ms. of part of Livy, which is clear and legible; tho the contrary is asserted by Dr. Brown[134]. It is the oldest copy now extant of that author, and tho it ends with Lib. XLV; yet there is added at the bottom of the page, Liber XLVI incipit feliciter, as if it was extant at that time, which is conceived by Lambecius to be about a thousand years since.

The Ms. German Bible of the Emperor Wenceslaus, in the margin of which, among other curious pictures relating to the sacred story, he is himself painted in more than fifty places, as washing in his bagnio, where he was once prisoner; together with the bagnio girl, who furthered his escape, and whom afterwards he so passionately loved.

A copy of the golden bull, containing the constitutions of the empire by Charles the fourth, in the first year of his empire. It is now a great curiosity, and was written for the use of the Emperor Wenceslaus, but forty years after the original published at Waremburg in 1356, and still reserved at Augsburg.

An elegant, tho not very antient Ms. of Cicero’s Orations, with another more antient of Ovid’s Metamorphoses.

The Letter of the present Tartar Han to the present Emperor, finely wrote on a long roll of silk.

A printed book of the Confucian philosophy in the Sinese character and language, published by the Jesuits.

A Ms. book of Latin letters, written by the present Emperor to Lambecius, in a neat and elegant stile; in which he always begins with, Chare Lambeci. To this is affixed the following Epigram on the present King of France by the said Emperor, attested by Lambecius to have been written by the Emperor in his presence at Luxemburg, 17 May 1666.

The celebrated Ms. of Jacobus Strada, antiquary to Maximilian the second, concerning antient medals; consisting of eight volumes in this order: Vol. i. and ii. De nummis consularibus. Vol. iii. De Latinis, a Julio Caesare ad Nervum. Vol. iv. De iisdem, a Nervo ad Alexandrum Severum. Vol. v. De iisdem, ab Alexandro Severo ad Claudium Secundum. Vol. vi. De nummis Graecis a Julio Caesare ad Nervum. Vol. vii. De iisdem, a Nervo ad Alexandrum Severum. Vol. viii. De iisdem, ab Alexandro Severo ad triginta illos sub Gallieno tyrannos. This work contains a collection of fair and choice medals, all exquisitely delineated by a pencil, each of which fills a whole page in folio; but the explication added by the author shews him to have been more laborious than learned, and discovers many notorious mistakes, as well in the tongues, as the history, to which the medals relate.

Two fragments, one in the Greek, the other in the Latin tongue, written on antient bark.

The case of this library is very mean, being unfurnished with seats and benches, and divided into four or five distinct apartments, besides another more separate from the rest, in which are kept all prohibited, that is, controversial books in divinity, together with the small remainder of Matthias Corvinus’s library brought from Buda. But it is still a greater disadvantage to this library, that since the death of Nesselius it has for two years been without a librarian, and therefore is difficult of access, and not without a considerable fee. This defect is attributed to the great scarcity of learned men in these parts, especially those of the Roman faith; for which reason the two preceding librarians, Lambecius and Nesselius, being before Lutherans, were obliged to renounce their faith, when they accepted that employ.

Over against the library is a long gallery, adjoining likewise to the palace, wherein is contained the Emperor’s treasury. A noble and truly royal collection is here of innumerable curiosities, both of art and nature, with vast riches in silver, gold, pretious stones, and jewels. But this likewise has the disgrace of being meanly exposed to sale, nor is it ever shewn under the exorbitant fee of twenty five florins; however I obtained two opportunities of viewing it, in the latter of which I took a large and distinct catalogue of the chief rarities deposited there, which would be too large to be here inserted.

The university of this place is a numerous society, appropriated to several distinct nations, particularly those of the empire, and the Emperor’s hereditary dominions; but it is remarkable for nothing but a low contracted institution, and administered wholly by the Jesuites, except that they refuse the office of rector magnificus, as being an expensive honour. The schools are tolerable and convenient apartments, adjoining to the Jesuits college; but the particular students are lodged privately, as every one’s circumstances and conveniency best serve him. But what they call the academy is in its kind more flourishing than the university; being a society instituted at the charge of the whole province of Austria, to instruct the young gentry and nobility in riding, fencing, dancing, the modern tongues, heraldry, history, and other polite arts. Their riding school is a noble room; and adjoining thereto is a stable of about forty managed horses, for the maintaining of which their instructor in horsemanship receives ten thousand florins annually from the public.

The present Imperial family ordinarily residing in this palace consists of the Emperor; the Empress Leonora; the King and Queen of the Romans; Archduke Charles; with the four Archdutchesses, Marta Elisabeth, Maria Anna, Maria Josepha, Maria Magdalena. Of these the Emperor has now passed sixty two years of his age, the King of the Romans twenty four, and the Archduke will be seventeen in October next; the two elder of the Archdutchesses have been some time marriageable, but the two younger are in their state of childhood. The Emperor is of a mild disposition, and conscientiously just, except where influenced by popish principles; he reasons solidly, has a happy memory, is both a lover and composer of music, skilled in the Hungarian, Sclavonian, and French tongues, and has an elegant taste of the Italian and Latin. Both he and his Empress appear truly devout in their way, which they testify by many instances of diffusive liberality and charity, as likewise by their frequent walks in processions, and daily visiting and dining in religious convents. Their garb, especially that of the Empress, is exceeding plain; their coaches and liveries of the old fashion; and their ceremonious dress is the habit and mode of Spain. Only they have now and then, what they call their Gala days, in which there is a great resort to court, and none appear there but in suits of gold and silver embroidery. So that it is the wisdom of this government, which has little reason to brag of its riches, to make this sort of luxury necessary, at a time when its more wealthy neighbours have either by prudent choice, or wholesome laws, wholly retrenched these superfluities. But to return to the character of the family. The Emperor is not only devout, but even bigoted to the Romish church, and fondly addicted to the priests, especially the Jesuits. The King of the Romans on the contrary is severely imbittered against them, but the Archduke is inclinable to tread in his father’s steps. The Empress will sometimes undertake pilgrimages on foot to some famous shrine, or image, in the adjoining country; and promises herself no doubt great benefits from that painful superstition.

The King of the Romans was gone to the siege of Landaw before our arrival; but the remainder of the Imperial family I had frequent opportunity of seeing, particularly at their supper, or the operas, which are sometimes acted in a theatre at the Favorite. It is their custom to salute the Emperor by bowing the knee. Their table is truly moderate, and a remarkable example of temperance and parsimony. Their operas are excessive dull, the action mean and trivial, and therefore more agreable to the low genius and relish of this place. Another occasion, that offered me the sight of the Emperor and the Archduke, was at a certain sport, with which in summer time they frequently divert themselves. They send out a large and expensive train of carts, laden with tents, canvas, poles, and other utensils, into one of their adjoining parks. There in an open green a tent is pitched for the Emperor and his retinue, round which a large and long space of ground is enclosed with high rails of canvas. When the Emperor is arrived, and ready to begin his diversion, a rank of huntsmen sound their horns, the rails drop at one end, and the grand cacciatóre rides out with his attendants to drive in an herd of deer, enclosed near at hand for this purpose. This done, they are forced up to the Emperor’s tent, till at the distance of about twenty yards they stand in a throng together. Hereupon his Imperial Majesty takes a well poised carbine, rests it upon a fixt support, then applies a perspective glass to the barrel, and discharges among the herd; and thus, with the help of the Archduke, he stuns, or maims perhaps, a dozen at twice as many shots. At length they sit down to diner, there talk over their diversion, and give this ignoble slaughter the name of a hunt.

During my stay at Vienna, I had the opportunity of three accidental but remarkable sights. The first of these was the execution of a woman by decollation, whose head the executioner struck off, as she sat in a chair, at one blow, levelled against the back part of her neck, with a two handed stroke, and a broad two edged sword. At these executions there assists, as in Italy, a number of about twenty persons, called the confraternity of the dead, habited in black, with masks, broad brimed hats, and mourning staves. They are a fixed society, composed of citizens of the middle rank, on whom their confessors impose it, as a piece of penance, to assist incognito on these occasions. But most remarkable was the fact and behaviour of the criminal, who was about twenty six years of age, and in the absence of her husband, now three years imprisoned at Presburg, had admitted the embraces of a young man, whom she passionately loved, but at length discovered to be upon the design of marrying another woman. After the most earnest but fruitless endeavours to divert his intention, she invites him one morning to a walk beyond the Favorite, and in a remote place enticing him to kiss her, takes occasion to shoot him in the head. This done, she immediately resigns herself to justice, reveals the whole fact, and implores her speedy dispatch; that so she might have his company in the other world, without whom she could not live in this. She walked with a fresh undaunted countenance to the place of sentence, which tho before designed and notified accordingly, yet is never formally pronounced till the time of execution. From thence she returned to the place of her death, sat down in the chair, and then received the stroke, without ever wavering her body, changing her complexion, or dreading the blow she was to feel. At these executions they often catch the blood of the criminal, as good against the falling sickness[135].

Another ceremony that occurred, while I resided here, was the investiture of the Duke of Saxony, and other inferior Princes of that circle, now at length demanded of his Imperial Majesty, at the Favorite, on the eighth of August. The five several representatives of the Elector and other Princes kneeling before the Emperor, who was seated on a low throne, did fealty in behalf of their respective patrons, rehearsed their pedigrees and title to their principalities, and requested of his Imperial Majesty to be invested in their several dignities. This being granted to them, they then took the proper oath at the feet of the Emperor; afterwards kissed the handle of a sword, which he held forth to each of them; and at last retiring to their first places, there on their knees they recognized the authority of his Imperial Majesty, and so were dismissed.

The third solemnity was a pompous procession, undertaken to accompany the bones of three Saints, namely, Sancta Victoria, Sanctus Alexander, and Sanctus Justus, from St. Stephen’s to the chapel of the Emperor’s palace in the city. They were newly brought from Italy, where being observed by Prince Leichtenstein in his late embassy to Rome, and found to have some relation to Hungary, of which two of them were natives; they were thought proper to be transmitted to Vienna, and accordingly purchased very dear, one of them standing him in no less than four thousand florins. In this procession marched all the religious orders, ranked in their several fraternities, except that the Jesuit disposed themselves promiscuously among the laity. After the monks and friars followed the meaner people, to the number of about two thousand; then the gentry, tho in a smaller number; after them a few of the nobility; then the Archduke and Emperor; and last of all the Empress and Archdutchesses. Each person of this numerous train maintained a decent gravity, except the Archbishop of Vienna, who being dressed in his episcopal robes and mitre walked like a horse in gaudy trappings, flinging about his legs, surveying his rich vestments, and looking up to the ladies and other spectators, who admired him from the windows, under which he passed.

August xxvii.

This day I went in a calash, together with Mr. Montague and Mr. Gaugain, to Petronel, a village on the Danube, about twenty four English miles from Vienna, seated in the place of the antient Carnuntum, where M. Antoninus held his capital quarters to bridle the Marcomanni for the space of three years, and then retiring on account of his indisposition to Vindobona died there. While we were on the road, I was entertained by those gentlemen, with a relation of what they had seen the day before. Count Sherradin of Bohemia had several times shot a pistol bullet into a mark of the size of a florin, at the distance of forty yards. And at this he is said to be so expert, that his pages will venture to hold a florin between their thumb and forefinger, which he dextrously uses to strike without hurting them. The like is sometimes practised by the present King of Poland, tho he once broke the fingers of a page in making the experiment. We here saw the remains of a triumphal arch, the fornix of which is yet intire; erected, as is thought by Nesselius and Lambecius, on occasion of that Pannonian expedition of Tiberius, which is so much celebrated by Paterculus[136]. The inhabitants here shewed us various Roman coins, tho none of any noted value. The village now belongs to Count Traun, who is descended from Babo, count of Abensberg, who had forty children by two lawful wives; thirty two of which, being sons, were presented by him to the Emperor, Henry the second, who prefered them all. Count Traun has here a stately palace, called the Castle, where we saw the story of the thirty two sons of Count Babo painted at large[137]. The house is moted round, as is usual all over this country. In the inside is a noble hall, well painted in the roof, and at the entrance of the gate is fixt an antient Latin inscription, which I have here transcribed.

SILVANAB. ET

QVADRIBIS[138] AVG. SACRVM

C. ANTONINVS VALENTINVS

VET. LEG. XIIII. G. MVRVM A FV

NDAMENTIS CVM SVO INT

ROITO ET PORTICVM CVM

ACCVBITO VETVSTATE CONLA

BSVM IMPENDIO SVO RESTITV

IT GENTIANO ET BASSO COS.

August xxix.

His Excellency with his whole family retired this day from Vienna to Baden, a small town, yet enclosed with an old wall, and celebrated for its baths, which are of pure sulphur. They rise in several places about the town, without any mixture of steel or other mineral, and are there collected into several square cisterns railed about with wood; where people of different quality bathe in distinct bagnios, and in some cases with good success. The town is seated four hours from Vienna, at the foot of the hills, which I take to be the Pannonian Alps. In this place Mr. Paget and I used the constant exercise of walking morning and evening, where I experienced a happy restoration of my health, once much debilitated in Turkey. Gloria in excelsis Deo!

September xxv.

His Excellency now sent Mr. Paget and myself to see the castle of Luxemburg, situated in the way betwixt Baden and Vienna. It is a mean building, in the form of a small quadrangle, and moted round. I observed several curious pictures in it, one particularly fine of the seven liberal sciences, in the dining room of the Emperor; another of the present King of France, when about four years of age; a third of Charles the fifth; a fourth of Matthias Corvinus and his father Huniades. The dining room is observable for an accident of thunder, which, while the Emperor and his family were at diner, entered the room at one quarter, passed in a semicircle about the table, and made its way thro the opposite wall with great explosion; while the Emperor remained in his seat with a remarkable calmness and serenity of mind. Adjoining to this building is a delightful park enclosed with pales; and nearer to the house a thick grove of elm and oak, in which is a long walk, and avenues so cut, as to resemble all the streets of Vienna.

September xxix.

This day Mr. Paget and I by the direction of his Excellency went to see a glass house, newly erected in the hills adjoining to this place, at the distance of about three hours. Our way thither lay thro a delicious vale, which conveys a small river, is graced with green meadows on each side, and above these with rising hills, adorned with a variety of trees, but particularly pines and firs. I here observed the several curiosities of that art and manufacture, which, tho frequent in England, I had never before seen. Returning home we stept a little to the left hand, to visit a convent of Cistercian monks, by the name of St. Cross, founded in the year 1131, by St. Leopold, Marquess of Austria. During the late siege of Vienna it was burnt by the Tartars (the common fate of all this country for thirty or forty Holland miles round Vienna) but soon after rebuilt by its own abbot, Clement Scheffer, in a more stately and splendid manner. Here reside an abbot, a prior, and about sixty monks, all royally maintained by noble revenues belonging to the monastery. They are neatly and gentilely dressed, lodged in pleasant chambers, have their public appartments alike magnificent, a fine garden, and prospects beautified with vistos and avenues cut in the adjoining woods. The abbot was then absent, but the prior and librarian treated us at supper, where we were served with seven or eight dishes, the best old wines, and conversation far from monkish. The librarian particularly was pleased to ridicule the custom of signing all the doors of this country with C. M. B. which the people fondly esteem a charm against fire and thievery; but he, as he said, instead of Cuspar Malcheir Bulkasar, was wont to interpret these letters Cax Mundus Beelzebub. At the same time I could not but be highly offended at a certain jocular freedom, with which he treated the Holy Scripture, saying with a profane mirth, when he delivered to us a glass of wine, Transeat a me calix iste; and when he had tossed off his own, Consummatum est. In truth we here saw not any token of popish zeal or superstition, as is usual in other places, no crucifixes, or images of the Trinity, Virgin, and the like; but instead of these, the whole Imperial family excellently well painted, and these in rooms, which for grandeur exceeded any, that the Emperor is master of in his palaces about Vienna. Here they favoured us with a lodging after a gentile and candid entertainment, and dismissed us in the like manner by eight a clock the next morning. Their library was mean, but the case very neat; tho the library had been much larger before the destruction by the Tartars. However I saw here a good Latin Ms. of the New Testament, without the Epistles of St. Peter, James, or John; and the Apocalypse placed immediately after St. John’s Gospel.

October iv.

My Lord and his family now returned from Baden to Vienna, where he lodged within the city in the house of C. Stratman, at the rate of five hundred florins a month. At Baden I was able to observe nothing, except some small matters relating to country affairs. As their way of making wine in the field, where they mash the grapes in broad open tubs, and tun it into large casks, as they lie in the cart. The manner of enclosing their vineyards with high poles joined at the top, and burnt at bottom to secure them from corrupting by the moisture of the ground. The manner of drawing sometimes with asses, and at other times with oxen, joining the harness to their horns without the use of yokes. I observed likewise their custom of calling a public officer upon the death of any animal; before which they dare not touch the carcass, he only being impowered to carry it away to a certain place, and there flea it, for which he receives three florins. This officer is called the hound slayer, because twice a year he is obliged to kill all the dogs both in town and country, that are found without a collar, which is thought an institution against spreading of infectious diseases.

October v.

This day I waited upon Mr. Stepney, who among other papers from England shewed me that traiterous Epigram, written in praise of Sorrel, or the horse, from which his late Majesty received his fatal fall.

October xxv.

There was brought to his Excellency’s house a male child, seven years of age, born at Rigetsch, three miles and a half from Papa, of a beautiful countenance, but without legs or thighs; and the left hand deformed, but the right intire. It walks, and raises itself with ease, while its trunk supplies the use of one leg, and the right hand that of the other. The hips terminate in a round figure, not unlike a woman’s breasts, and have in the middle an excrescence exactly resembling a large nipple. The child is healthy and lively, and from the crown of the head to the extremity of the trunk is three palms and a half long.

I had now, in company of several English gentlemen, an opportunity of seeing the Emperor’s collection of pictures, which is exposed at the price of twelve florins. It consists of three long galleries, with four or five large and square chambers. The whole number of pieces amounts to a thousand six hundred and sixty three, performed by the best hands of Europe, particularly these which follow: Albert Durer, Anton. Correggio, Bassan, Palma senior and junior, Prugel senior and junior, Paul Veronese, Bronzini, Franck senior, Paduanino, Jo. Bellino, Poussin, Gerome Poss, Portononi, Spagnoletto, Raphael Sancio, Giorgioni, Titian, Tintoretto, Van Ach, Holbein, Rubens, Van Dick, John de Heem, Pauditz, and others. Among these there was one piece of Raphael, which seemed to excel the rest, being a saint holding a crucifix, which belonged to the cabinet of King Charles the first of England, and was sold by Oliver to this court for twelve thousand florins. Besides this collection of pictures, there is another set of rarities, preserved in a cabinet at one end of the third gallery, and consisting of intaglios and cameos; among which is a large head of Domitian in agate; a series of gold medals, and among them two of Otho, to which is added a Pisennius Niger in silver of the third size. In the same cabinet are several small statues of brass and stone, among the rest those of Venus and Hercules; and likewise several antient busts, particularly of Plato and Aristotle; with divers sepulchral lamps, urns, and other remains of antiquity. To say nothing of the curiosities found in the tomb of Childeric the first by Leopold William, Archduke of Austria, and uncle to this Emperor, at Tournay in the year 1657. Among these are some remarkable gold coins of that time, with the repeated emblem of flies or bees, the wings of which at a distance give the figure of a flower de lys, and are supposed to be the real arms of France, tho this resemblance has occasioned their being mistaken for that flower. But more especially is to be remembred the order of antient busts ranged on one side of the three galleries, among which are several heads of Emperors, and Satyrs, with one of Socrates; as likewise an intire figure of Magna Mater turrita, with a lion under her chair, a tympanum in her left hand, and patina in her right; which cost this court a thousand florins at Rome.

November iii.

I went to visit Mr. C. Boét, a famous painter in enamel, who had a salary from his late Majesty, whose picture, with those of other confederate Princes, drawn by him he now shewed me. But that which is most remarkable, he is at present working for this court the largest piece, that ever was known in enamel, being an oval of eighteen inches by fifteen; which contains the figures of the Emperor and Empress, King and Queen of the Romans, with the Archduke, the four Archdutchesses, and the two young Daughters of the King of the Romans. He was sent for hither by his late Majesty on purpose for this work, for which when finished he is by compact to receive four thousand ducats of gold. The materials of it are a copper plate covered with a white enamel, which being hardened in the fire, is afterwards painted over in colours of a peculiar composition, with oil of lavender and rosemary; and then again put into the fire to receive a gloss, and additional hardness; after which it is liable to no accident, but that of breaking. It may be observed, that all the red colours in this work are made of gold.

November vi.

This day by order of his Excellency I waited on the two young Messieurs Olmeus and others, in order to see the Emperor’s treasury the third time, and thereby perfected my catalogue of those rarities. And his Excellency being then preparing for his departure, the Emperor presented him with six thousand dollars.

November viii.

His Excellency with his retinue now set forward from Vienna towards Holland, and proceed two german miles to Entzersdorff. A little before the midway we cross the Danube over a wooden bridge four hundred paces in length, and continue near the banks of the river to the above mentioned town. And as we continued there the following day, I walked down to the banks of the Danube, where it flows under the castle of St. Leopold, near Cloyster Newburg, and in the extreme point of Mons Cetius.

November x.

This day we proceed two German miles and a half further to Stockeran, and there meet C. Schlick, Mr. Stepney, Mr. Montague, and Mr. Gangain, with whom we proceed three miles and a half further to our lodgings at Holibrun. And from thence his Excellency, with the said company, the next morning goes out an hour to Count Sereny’s, there to wait on the King of the Romans, now returning from the campaign on the Rhine. By one a clock the King and Queen arrived at the Count’s, where his Excellency had an audience of both their Majesties; after which they sat down to table, and his Excellency and company dined with the court, and afterwards returned to Holibrun.

November xii.

This day we advance about five miles further in Austria, and then crossing the Teya enter into Moravia, now called Makren, and take up our quarters at Znaim, the Medoslanium of Ptolemy. This is a fair and fortified town, tho of the old fashion, upon the river Teya, which runs hence into the Morawa, antiently the Marus, and with that into the Danube. In the year 1645 this town was taken and pillaged by the Swedes. It has two market places, in each of which is a good fountain; and in one of them the image of the Virgin, erected on a fair pillar, and inscribed with a new sort of Gloria Patri, that is, Lavs Deo, Mariaeqve Virgini, Sanctisque svis. There are likewise several convents, of Capuchines, Dominicans, Jesuits, and Premonstratensians; and it is remarkable for excellent endive.

November xiii.

We stay this day at Znaim, and the day following proceed three German miles to Budwitz, thro pleasant woods of fir, with fertile open feilds. And moving from thence the next morning, three more German miles carry us thro Babitz and Drumna to Pernitz, by a pleasant way, thro a country sometimes open and well tilled; and at other times thro delightful woods of pine or fir, intermixt with juniper and a few birch; but scarce any other shrubs or trees in the whole country. At Pernitz is a convent of Paulins, so called from Sto. Francisco di Paula, a strict order, that eats no flesh nor fish throughout the year. In this place live several Jews, who are bound to wear blue ruffs, as a mark of distinction.

November xvi.

Two German miles thro woods of fir and arable ground bring us to Iglaw. This city, reasonably well fortified, has a large and clean market place, round which the houses have false fronts, and are handsomely painted on the outside with pleasant landskips or histories. At the upper end of it is a statue of the Virgin on a column, like that at Znaim; both seeming to be an imitation of that at Vienna. We bait an hour at Iglaw, and then pass on one German mile to a small village, called Steken. But immediately beyond the wall of Iglaw we pass a river of the same name, and there enter into Bohemia, whence we continue our way over a large lake, with a road cast up betwixt the two branches of it, and delicate woods of fir adorning its banks. This wood is of large extent, and seems to be a continuation of the Sylva Hercynia in this country, now called Behemerwaldt.

November xvii.

We stay this day at Steken, where I had leisure to observe in general concerning Moravia, that the country is fertile and well tilled, except where it is overrun with pine or fir woods. The people are all slaves to the lords of the several mansions; but this extends only to their labour, not the property of their gain. The language of the place is Behemish, a dialect of the Sclavonian; but at inns and other public houses they ordinarily speak Tuysech. The government it divided into five districts, of which there are as many captains, but the command of the whole province is committed by the Emperor to Count Thorn. The river Morawa is likewise called Mark by the Germans; which latter name seems to relate to the antient inhabitants, the Marcomanni (who with the Quadi were here settled) as the former name does to the Moravians. Through the whole extent of the country we frequent meet with large lakes, at the distance perhaps of an English mile.

November xviii.

This day we proceed one mile and a half to Tuytschenbrodt, an old fortification on the river Sazawa, and from thence two miles to Habern, in a wood on the right hand. Tuytschenbrodt was the place, where General Zeiska beat the Emperor Sigismund, and by that defeat drove him out of Bohemia.

November xix.

One mile brings us this day to Janikaw, and two more from thence to Czaslaw; the place where Ferdinand the second narrowly escaped being assassinated by an Italian, hid for that purpose in an oven. Half a mile farther carries us to a small hamlet, called Wasser Cratz. Of these towns Janikaw is the place, where the battle was fought betwixt the Swedes and Imperialists in 1645; and Czaslaw, where General Zeiska lies buried.

November xx.

From Wasser Cratz we proceed one quarter of a German mile, and then having the city of Kuttenberg on our left hand, a little farther in the road we pass by two Imperial mines, where they are now at work, and dig up a mixt oar, consisting of copper, lead, and silver, a specimen of which they then shewed us. At one mile and a half from our last lodging we come to Kottin, and there breakfast. Then proceeding another mile and a half, we arrive at Blanyan. From Kottin flows the river Elb, which takes its name about five miles below that place, and is there scarce navigable. As we travel, we keep it in sight on the right hand, and the woods still on the left.

November XXI.

Two miles and a half from Branyan carry us to Oval, thro an open arable country, with a continued tract of woods on our left hand. In the midway we bait at the poor town of Bohaimsbrodt. But the day following for two miles and a half we pass thro a pleasant grove of birch and pine, and afterwards thro open ploughed feilds to Prague.

November xxiii.

His Excellency staying this day at Prague, I took that opportunity of viewing every thing I could of that noble city, which is thought to be the largest in Germany. It is inclosed with one intire wall, two third parts of which are regularly divided into curtains and bastions; but the remaining third is old and defenceless. Tho indeed the whole town is commanded by ascending ground, that no fortification can make it long defensible. The Muldaw, a large and rapid river, divides it into two parts, which are again joined by a fair and stately bridge of stone, seventeen hundred feet long and thirty five broad, supported by twenty four arches. Both parts of the city are adorned with great variety of magnificent buildings, the most remarkable of which I visited in this order.

Adjoining to the Star inn, where his Excellency lodged, is the new convent of Irish Cordeliers; and in the same neighbourhood are two seminaries, one called that of the Archbishop, and the other that of St. Norbert, patron of this kingdom; both which profess academical learning, but in societies distinct from the university of the place.

Hence the way leads us to the townhouse, a large and stately building, which at one corner has a piece of clock work, giving the motions of the seven planets. On one side of this opens a fair piazza, with two curious pieces of workmanship. The first of these is a statue of the B. Virgin trampling on the Dragon, erected on a stone pillar, on the pedestal of which are four Angels defeating the like venomous monsters. This implies a triumphant declaration of her immaculate conception, and imitates that work before observed at Vienna. The second curiosity is a fountain of carved marble, with a basin of twelve sides, on which are cut very beautifully the twelve signs of the Zodiac.

From hence we pass to a college of Jesuits, a noble and spatious building. The church is a fine fabric, and prodigiously rich; the cloister large, and adorned with agreable pictures; among the rest are large tables divided into little squares, containing the short history and pourtraiture of the eminent persons of their order for preaching, missions, and conversions, among whom are a great number of English.

The same way leads us to the bridge above mentioned, and thence to another college of the Jesuits; but the third, and most splendid of this order, is in that part of Prague called the new city, which we had not an opportunity of seeing.

We now turn to the right hand, and in an eminent part of the city are brought to the Emperor’s palace, old and irregular in outward appearance, but within its precincts is the old cathedral church, an handsome Gothic building of the year 923, as appears by an inscription on the chief altar. The stateliness of the old architecture, with the richness as well as beauty of the modern ornaments, make it a venerable pile. They have here a picture of the Virgin, which is pretended to be of St. Luke’s hand. At the gate entering into this palace there is another in sight, which is the residence of the Archbishop.

From the cathedral we are carried to the Capuchin cloister, which consists of a small but most beautiful quadrangle. Round the four sides, under a fair portico, are painted thirty different copies of so many of the most eminent and miraculous images of the Virgin, each in the proper garb, posture, and colours of the originals; and the remaining space of the wall beneath is filled with votive tables, in acknowledgement of favours received from each picture. I thought this collection observable, in that it is an apparent instance of the different representations of the B. Virgin, who is not invoked under the same character in all places, and on all occasions; but according to the fancy of the first painters, and the superstition of the late devotees, is split into so many distinct objects of worship; as the Lady de Victoria, de Litera, de Consilio, Crysostomiana, Cyrilliana, Bernardina, Lauretana, Eremitana, Cellensis, Passaviensis, Wranoviensis, Hallensis. As this shews how polytheism crept in among the heathen, who first of all worshiped God under so many distinct attributes, and afterwards as so many distinct beings; so it argues greater superstition in the church of Rome: for instead of the several characters of Venus, as Cypria, Cytherea, Victrix, and others; or of Diana, as Aricinia, Leucophryne, Taurica[139]; we have many more of Sta. Maria. In the middle of this quadrangle is an handsome imitation of the chapel of Loretto with the Virgin and our Savior above the altar in the complection of Moors; and on the outside walls are various religious stories elegantly represented.

From hence we proceed to the celebrated cloister of Premonstratensians, called the Shawhoff in which above an hundred persons are maintained in a princely manner. I was here shewn a rich chapel, wherein before the incursion of the Swedes were many large and curious statues of solid brass, particularly those of the twelve Apostles; which by Count Koningsmarck were converted into canon, when he took this part of the city, tho he was soon again repulsed. In the middle of the church, in a stately open monument, is preserved the body of St. Norbert, the founder of this order. Over the tomb is suspended a gilt crown of a prodigious size, the diameter of the rimb being at least three ells. After the chapel I saw their library, which is neat and well filled, but with books in the taste of the last age. They have here a monkish contrivance of a wheeling desk with six sides, on each of which may lie several books, so as to be turned round in their order, without falling off in the motion. From the library we passed to their private chapel, wherein is a crucifix, which the monk, who shewed it us, attested to have seen illuminated in the night, while no candle was in the room. In an adjoining gallery is a large statue of our Savior, which they affirm to have once sweat blood about the neck, and shew the marks thereof still remaining. From hence we are carried to their winter refectory, a large and regular stove room, well contrived for warmth and beauty at the same time. But their summer refectory is a pattern of beauty, proportion, and magnificence, being paved with black and white marble, with three large windows on one side, and round the walls about twelve large pictures of eminent persons of their order; and the whole is exceedingly well contrived, both for the entertainment of the mind, and repose of the body. They shewed us likewise another large room, with a numerous collection of their most meritorious members in little squares; and last of all the chambers of the monks, with two adjoining gardens, one for the fathers, the other for the brethren of the society, which completed the pleasure of the sight.

Next to this convent we went to see a Jewish synagogue, of which there are eight in this place, the number of that nation amounting to above ten thousand, who for distinction sake are all obliged to wear a blue ruff.

On the stately bridge over the Muldaw are to be observed several curious statues of the Virgin; of our Savior; and of the new Saint lately set up in all parts of this kingdom, as well as on all the bridges of Vienna, being a curious piece of cast brass with this inscription:

DIVO IOANNI NEPOMENENO ANNO MCCCLXXXIII

AB HOC PONTE DEIECTO EREXIT MATTHIAS L. B.

DE WVNESWITZ ANNO MDCLXXXIII.

He was here drowned for not revealing to the King of Bohemia a confession of his Queen.

The famous university of this place, which in the time of John Huss consisted of forty thousand students, is not even now so far diminished, but that when they have occasion to assault the Jews, or other citizens, they can muster about twelve thousand. They consist of young persons, not collected into regular societies, as with us, but lodging in private houses, from whence they repair to the public schools at the appointed hours of lecture. There are three of these schools, one in each part of the city, where all academical learning is professed by the ablest of the Jesuits; for these have the sole direction of the university, and are the only rich prevailing persons in Bohemia, particularly in the capital city, where they amount to the number of a thousand.

November xxiv.

This day we leave Prague, and proceed four miles, thro an open ploughed country, to Sloney. In the way we receive the confirmation of the good news, which we first heard at Iglaw; that seventeen Spanish galleons in the port of Vigo were fallen under the power of our grand fleet, eleven being taken, and six sunk; and that the whole squadron of Chateaurenault, being twenty nine men of war, were either sunk or taken.

November xxv.

His Excellency continues yet at Sloney, a small but walled town, with a large market place, as usual in these parts. It was formerly a seat of protestants, and therefore barbarously destroyed by Ferdinand the third. The day following we intend for Launa, three miles from hence; but the place being taken up for the quarters of five thousand Saxon soldiers, now moving against Bavaria, we lodge at Clamston, half an hour short of it; where we continue two days, by reason of a great quantity of snow, which then fell.

November xxix.

Leaving Clamston, at the distance of one quarter of a German mile we pass under the walls of Launa, and there cross the Egra by a long wooden bridge, covered with a penthouse, as is usual in this country. From thence we come to Bitin, the estate of Prince Lobcowitz, where we bait one hour; and from thence proceed to Deplitz, the estate and seat of Count Clery, remarkable for an hot bath.

November xxx.

His Excellency from hence designed the straight road, by the way of Framstein, Friburg (where are silver mines, and the tombs of the electors of Saxony) Waltheim, Coldick, Walcowitz, and so to Leipsick. In the mean time he permitted me to quit his retinue, in order to see Dresden. With this intent I take a post waggon from Deplitz to Peterswaldt, the distance of two miles, in which I pass the hill of Kaiasberg. From Peterswaldt I take a new post, and soon after I have left the town pass the boundary of Bohemia and Saxony; and at two miles end changing post at a little village not far from Pirn, by this third post I come under its walls, and presently am upon the banks of the Elbe, along which I ride about half an hour, and then quitting the river arrive about five a clock at Dresden, being in all six miles from Deplitz. It being now dark, I repair immediately to my lodgings at the house of one Leonard Serert, betwixt the two market places, a civil host, who spoke both French and Italian. The way from Peterswaldt to Dresden is very agreable, being interspersed with woods of fir. The villages are better built, and more populous, than those of Bohemia; where indeed neither towns nor villages are thin, but the people very few, and those dejected with a sense of poverty and slavery, occasioned partly by the tyranny of the church, and partly by the constitution of the government, which makes the peasants slaves to their Lords, as in Moravia.

December i.

I continue at Dresden this and the three following days, to observe the curiosities of the place. It is a neat well built town, with straight and fair streets, compact but not large, enclosed within a regular fortification, and a deep foss constantly filled with water. It stands upon the Elbe, over which it has a noble bridge, almost as long as that of Prague, supported by eighteen arches, and on each side affording a delightful prospect along the bending chanel of the water. By this bridge the city is joined to a neat suburb, called Old Dresden, the residence chiefly of merchants, among whom I found two Englishmen, Mr. Northleigh and Mr. Dealing, by both whom I was kindly treated. Dresden was always the residence of the Electors of Saxony, till this present Elector was chosen King of Poland. However it is the ordinary seat both of the Electress, and the Prince, who is six years old; but both of them happened to be absent now. The Deputy of the Elector is the Prince of Furstemberg, who is of the Popish religion, but the whole town is intirely Lutheran. They have three churches, St. Cross, Sta. Sophia, and the chapel of the court. St. Cross is a large antient Gothic building, well adorned in the inside, particularly with a carved and stately altar. The number of ministers is about twelve, whose revenue is very small, and therefore the people here complain, that they make up that defect by the abuses of confession. The palace is a fair stone building, consisting of two courts, of which the first is large and regular, adorned both within and without with very good carving, and painting in fresco, which deserves regard, particularly one part of it that fronts the street, and represents a Roman triumph. The gardens are likewise curious, and the riding school is remarkably spatious; but what obscures every thing else in Dresden, and perhaps all others of the same kind in Germany, is the kunstkammer, with the arsenal, and stable of the Elector. Each of these are shewn to strangers at the price of three florins, the curiosities of which I reduced into a catalogue. On the bridge at Dresden is erected a curious brass crucifix, not inferior to that of Prague in the workmanship, but far exceeding it in design, and bearing an inscription, that disavows all superstitious worship.

December iv.

At six a clock this evening, it being then very dark, I take a passage in the ordinary post chaise for Leipsick, paying four florins for the space of thirteen German miles. By ten at night we come to Misten, and there cross the Elbe over a large covered bridge. The benefit of the star light gives me opportunity to observe some part of the town, particularly the castle seated on very high ground. Hence we continue our journey all night, till about ten a clock the next morning we come to Wurzen, where we dine; and then ferrying over the Muldaw, now a large and rapid river, after having endured a cold and severe snow all the day, we arrive at Leipsick about five a clock in the afternoon, where I provide myself with a private lodging.

December vi.

This morning his Excellency and his retinue arrive at Leipsick by eleven a clock, and lodge at the Golden hen in the high street, to which place I therefore now remove myself.

Leipsick is a neat and compact place, well built, the streets almost straight, and conveniently wide. The market place is a regular quadrangle, surrounded with fair and lofty houses, among which is the town hall, or court of justice. Not far from the market is another small square, at one end of which is a new and spatious room, to which we ascend by stone steps. This serves for an exchange, where the merchants meet. The city has three large churches, one of St. Nicholas, another of St. Thomas, and a third called the New Church. These are all well beautified within, especially that of St. Nicholas, the altar of which is a neat pile, representing in good sculpture the burial and resurrection of our Savior, his shewing his wounds to St. Thomas and the other disciples, and over the whole his ascension in a cloud. At the upper end of the two outward isles are painted two good pieces of perspective. The town has no public buildings, besides an old castle, and a new hospital; the latter of which serves both for the reception of lunatics, and also a house of correction for vagabonds. The fortification is regular, and of the new fashion, but not of any great importance; however it has a foss, that may be filled with water upon occasion from the Pleiss, which washes the walls of the city.

The town is governed by a senate of twenty three, of whom three, called Burgomasters, have the prime authority; and by a chief magistrate, who has the title of consul, and is chosen annually. The present consul is one Romanus, a young gentleman of great fortune, and vast designs; who is erecting a noble palace in the city, built of free stone. Among the senators are several persons of quality, who have fair estates, and a learned education.

There is a good library belonging to the city, lately purchased at the expence of the senators, and which they daily improve by new accessions. Among the citizens of this rank and character I contracted an acquaintance with Mr. Wagner, who speaks good English, and has been long preparing a comment on the obscurities of Barclay’s Euphormio, concerning which he has commissioned me to make several enquiries. Another person of the like learning and civility is Mr. Graevius (brother to the eminent critic in Holland) who has the care of the city library, and favoured me with the sight of it. These with many other particulars, that might be mentioned, are arguments of a rich and flourishing city; which is occasioned partly from the confluence of students to the university; and partly from the benefit of three celebrated fairs of fourteen days each, which are annually kept here, and furnished with merchandizes of all sorts, not only from the several parts of Germany, but likewise from Italy, Hungary, France, Holland, England, and other countries.

The staple commodities of the town are the linen manufacture, and a natural blue earth, which is dug only in some metalic mines of Saxony, and which to the vast advantage of this place is exported from hence to England, Holland, and elsewhere, for the use of dying. As to the execution of justice, adultery is here a capital crime, but in this case the criminal must be convicted by his own confession, to which they oblige him by force of torture. The beauty of the city, which appears to a good advantage by day light, is however not lost in the night, by means of their new lamps, which are ranged in an orderly manner, stand very close to each other, and are kept with great neatness. The gardens of the principal gentlemen, and merchants here resident, are without the fortifications; and being as well exceeding rich, as beautified with great art, add a noble ornament to the place.

The university is in a flourishing state, and has a true taste of polite literature, especially as to philosophical studies. Tho I know not whether they merit that character with regard to classical learning. It is not now so numerous as formerly; because Hall, which within these ten years has been erected into an university by the King of Prussia, depriving them of their numbers, has reduced them perhaps from three to one thousand students. They have six colleges, called Paulinum, Petrinum, Majorum and Minorum Principum, Rubrum, and B. Mariae Virginis. Each of these have their praepositus, and some few stipends. But when we mention academical colleges abroad, we must fall much below the idea of those, with which we are so happily acquainted at Oxford and Cambridge. In these colleges are their auditories, or schools, of public lectures for philosophy, and the three superior faculties. These are regularly taught by their respective professors, of which the university is furnished with six in divinity, five in law, four in physic, and nine in philosophy, humanity, and history. Besides these, several of the more eminent doctors, and elder students, have their private lectures, to which the younger resort at their pleasure, and this with greater frequency and better success, than to the lectures publicly established. The degrees in philosophy are that of batchelor and master of arts; in the faculties, of licentiate and doctor. Persons of note in the university, whom I visited, were Dr. Efficke professor of divinity; and Dr. Otto Menchenius professor of moral philosophy, who is likewise the editor of the Acta Eruditorum, of which I purchased an intire set from the year 1682 to this present time, consisting of twenty five volumes in quarto. Other eminent persons, with whom I had a more frequent conversation, were Dr. Goëtze, Dr. Menchenius junior, and Mr. Olearius junior. The two former are doctors of law, and the latter professor of humanity. To these I may add Mr. Thomas Fritsel bookseller, a person who has made an useful tour over Europe; speaks several modern languages, as well as Latin; and to whom I was obliged for a particular mark of courtesy, and the present of several useful books. Not only he, but the three gentlemen last mentioned speak good English, which language is much esteemed and studied in this place. Dr. Menchenius shewed me the little work of Alcyonius De exilio, which I was glad to see, because it is said to have been compiled out of Cicero’s treatise De gloria; which the plagiary for that reason took occasion to suppress. Dr. Goëtze among several fair manuscripts, and old editions of classic authors, shewed me a neat but antient satyr On the Pope and Court of Rome. It is a manuscript, as yet unprinted, in Elegiac verse, entitled Eironeia Gaufridi. He has also a curious and fair manuscript of Columella, another of a Greek Menologion, a very old Greek Testament, printed in Spain, with the Latin in the margin; but exactly referring in every word by cautious notes from the known to the unknown language, lest the monks of that time should have taken γενέσεως to signify liber, and βίβλος generationis. In another old Spanish book, concerning the antiquities of that country, he shewed me a copy of the old Gothic character; in which it is observable, that the vowels are generally incorporated with the consonants, which they follow.

In the two libraries of this place, the one belonging to the university, the other to the senate, I took notice of the following curiosities.

In the former I observed two celebrated pictures of Luther and Melancthon, both taken after their death. Several specimens of what they called moneta bracteata, lately found in Saxony; but which I take to have been only leaves of silver covering a mass of inferior metal. An old manuscript of Homer, with large Scholia, which they here think have never been published. The draught of an old idol worshiped in Germany; the original of which was a short brass image of an human figure, hollow within, and contrived to make an artificial wind issue out of his mouth, like the globes of that sort now become so common.

In the library of the senate I observed an Egyptian mummy. Several Roman urns and funeral lamps. Saxon urns, like others which I observed at Dresden and elsewhere, full of thin fragments of bones; in one of which were found several small iron and brass instruments, and upon a thin plate of brass the two following letters, ⲱ. ⲉ. A fine collection of coins. A good manuscript of Theocritus. A noble specimen of the rich silver mines in Saxony, in a mass about three feet long and two broad, the whole of which almost is pure metal.

Adjoining to the Collegium Paulinum is the university church, where they have prayers on festival days. It is full of antient and modern monuments, all of good work. This university took its rise from the dispersion of the Hussites, and the banishment of John Huss himself from Prague. And by its first constitution it is appropriated to four nations; the Misnians (of whom Leipsick is the metropolis) the other hereditary countries of the Elector of Saxony, the Bavarians, and the Poles. The chief magistrate annually elected here is called rector magnificus, as in other German universities; and in him, with his subordinate officers, rests the sole government and jurisdiction of this learned body. The present rector is Dr. Cyprianus, professor of divinity.

It was in Leipsick, that I first observed the Lutheran manner of communicating. The priest and the deacon, who assists him, are habited in surplices, copes, and sleeves, like those of the Greeks and Romanists. The service is chanted by the priests standing, and the people round about at a distance, but in the same posture. The consecration being ended, the communicants draw near, and on the north side of the altar approach the priest, who delivers into the mouth of each of them still standing the consecrated wafer. The communicants from thence walk round the back part of the altar, and so come to the deacon, from whom they likewise standing receive the cup, and thence return orderly to their proper places. In the mean time, while the species are delivered by the priest on one side and the deacon on the other, two choristers habited likewise in copes and surplices attend each, holding under them a rich pall of velvet, or other stuff, to receive any particle of the elements, which may fall accidentally. This done, they likewise chant a thanksgiving service in a standing posture, and so depart. The ecclesiastics of the place wear large white ruffs, not only in time of divine service, but likewise as their ordinary habit when in public; and with this a round cloth cap, like that lately alloted to the commoners in the university of Oxford.

These are the principal observations I had leisure to make at Leipsick, where his Excellency staid from the sixth to the fourteenth of this month. On this day therefore we proceed on our journey five German miles to Hall over an open arable country. This is an antient city, founded and perfected by the several Othos, Emperors of Germany. It is now large, but meanly built, tho famous for its salt pits, from whence it has the name of Hall. In these they work night and day with an uninterrupted diligence, nor ever cease, but in the time of divine service on Sundays. It is situated on the river Sala, which name corresponds with that of the city.

The King of Prussia, as has been said, Sovereign of the place, opened an university here some years since, which at present flourishes with about a thousand students, and several professors of eminent note, among these are Strychius, Thomasius, and Franckius. The last is the person, who sent me formerly into Turkey several little tracts of his own composition, which had been translated into Latin and Italian, in order to be distributed here. I therefore visited him this evening, and discoursed with him upon his famous project of an ample charity; by which he maintains above six hundred children of both sexes, and that by no other fund, than collections gathered by his own industry. Three hundred of these, being boys, he has reduced to a college, which he now calls the Orphanotrophium. It is an handsome building, well contrived for the reception of so many poor orphans, for their diet, lodging, schooling, clothing, and afterwards their removal to some proper calling. He has here a printing house for the use of the society, and from thence have now been published several treatises, of which he presented me with two, concerning the Jewish history, and the ecclesiastical government of Bohemia. The King of Prussia, who is thought the principal supporter of this great charity, has lately authorized the Orphanotrophium under an ample patent, and allowed both the society, and the founder of it, several honourable and advantageous privileges. By this great undertaking Mr. Franck proposes to lay a scheme and foundation for the reformation of manners, and better advancement of learning at the same time. But as he is one of the primary Pietists in all Germany, the opposite party among the Lutherans in these parts, who in distinction call themselves the Orthodox, cease not to calumniate both him and his design. Tho how justly, God only knows. He delivered me a packet for Mr. Ludolf, and commissioned me to salute Dr. Bray, and Mr. Woodward of Stepney, with whom he corresponds in relation to this intended reformation.

December xv.

From Hall we now pass to Koendern, and by the way cross the Sala in a ferry boat at Alsleber, leaving Eisleben, the birth place of Luther, a little on the right hand. The day following we continue our journey from Koendern to Aschersleben, leaving Paidleburg in sight on the left hand. And the next day we move forward to Halberstadt, palling from Upper into Lower Saxony in this day’s journey. Halberstadt is a large town, subject to the King of Prussia, having about fourteen churches, which are pretty equally divided betwixt Protestants and Papists.

December xviii.

This day we leave Halberstadt and proceed to Hessen, a small village belonging to Rodolphus Augustus, Duke of Brunswick; who has here an old moted house, with a pleasant garden, and a fountain of brass work, which for the variety of animals there artfully represented, and the device of the whole, deserves to be remarked. We continue here the two following days, and then set out for Wolfembutel, where we arrive at night, and lodge in the suburbs.

December xxii.

His Excellency departed this morning from Wolfembutel with a design to go directly to Hildesheim; upon which I desire leave to take a different road, in order to see Brunswick, Hanover, and Hamburg. However I spent this day at Wolfembutel, in observing what was curious there.

The town is pleasantly seated on the river Ocker, in a place not so intirely level as the other parts of Lower Saxony, but enjoying a variety of rising and declining ground, with a convenient mixture of woods, which hitherto we observed to be intirely wanting from Leipsick to this place. The city is compactly built, has fair and large streets, tho no very stately edifices, and is well fortified with a regular wall, and a double foss. It has two remarkable churches, one of which is the cathedral, an old Gothic building, adorned with a variety of sculpture and statues; and the other is a new church, lately erected by the present Duke of this place, in a peculiar form. It has an ascent at the front by a handsome staircase on two sides, and then opens into a perfect oval, which is supported by six stately pillars, and covered with a cupola. Directly facing the door is a piece of good work in sculpture, representing the Virgin, and other religious figures; and under this in a small orbicular desk, which appears as an ornament of the work, is seen the pulpit. Underneath is a table of wood, set so distinct from the wall, that it cannot properly be called an altar, and at each end are two high steps for the kneeling of the communicants. For the Lutherans, who in some places communicate standing, do the same in others kneeling; and the notion of an altar, with the posture of receiving, are in their opinion things indifferent. The castle of this place (which alone is properly Wolfembutel) is just without the wall of the city, and is the residence of the Duke. He has here an academy for the use of young gentlemen of all nations, where they are instructed in the arts of fencing, riding, dancing, and other exercises. But what is most remarkable, in the precincts of the castle is the celebrated library, founded by Christianus Augustus, the father of this Prince. It consists of two large and spatious galleries, ranged all round with books, and filled in the middle with a double row of desks, which in the inner gallery likewise contain shelves for books of lesser volumes. It was collected with great assiduity, and at a vast expence, by the said Prince; who himself employed his pains intirely in this design, and wrote the several catalogues digested in various orders, and consisting of eight volumes in folio, with his own hand. The present librarian is the famous Mr. Leibnitz, who at this time did not reside upon the place; but an assistant of his shewed the library, and observed to me the following curiosities. A collection of printed Bibles, the largest and most curious, which are any where to be found. A large manuscript English Bible in folio, which seems very antient and begins thus: In the erste made God of nought the hevens and the ery, and the ery forsooth was vein and veyd, and darknesses weren upon the face of the zee. At the bottom of the first page is wrote Lumley in later characters. A manuscript Greek Testament; and two printed copies, one of Aldus and the other at Hagenoa, in which is wanting that famous testimony of St. John concerning the three, that bear witness in heaven. An antient manuscript of St. Jerome’s Bible, written about four hundred years since, by one who subscribes himself Abbas Gaufridus Vitulus; and at the end of the same has delineated himself, with the head of a calf. A manuscript Aethiopic Testament, given by father Kircher to the founder of the library. A copy of the Psalms, written in those characters, which are called Ciceroniani and Cyprianici. A voluminous collection of modern Histories, in four hundred manuscript volumes in folio; among which are thirteen called Chroniques d’Angleterre. The whole number cost the Duke two thousand four hundred crowns; but it is thought, he purchased them much to dear. A fair turning desk with six leaves, like that before described in the Praemonstratensian library at Prague. A fair Herbal, with each flower delineated in its proper colours. A roll of the Pentateuch, and a vail now used by the Jews in reading the Law. Several reliques of Luther, as his spoon, drinking glass, leaden inkbottle, and a Letter in his own hand to one of his contemporary bishops, in which he sends the salutes of his wife in these words: Salutat te, Dominus meus, Ketha reverenter. Two books written by Prince Christian himself, founder of the library: one De ludo scacchia, in the German language; the other in folio, called Cryptographia, treating of cyphers and other secret devices, in the title of which he calls himself Gustavus Selenus, meaning Augustus Luneburgicus. A fair edition of the vulgate Latin Bible by Aldus at Venice, which reads in Genesis iii. 15, Ipsum conteret caput tuum, instead of the usual ipsa.

The present Duke Antonius Ulricus, and his brother Rudolphus Augustus, who resides at Brunswick, have the title of Brunswick and Lunenburg in common with their eldest brother the Duke of Zell, and their nephew the Duke of Hanover. But their proper government is the territory of Brunswick and Wolfembutel which they govern by joint name and authority, both being equally sovereign in each. Rudolphus is about seventy two years of age, plain and unaffected in his carriage, insomuch that sometimes he takes a private journey to Hamburg where he walks the streets in the disguise of a country gentleman. But Antonius is a more polite and accomplished prince, affecting the French behaviour and education; for which end he here maintains the academy above mentioned He is courtly, and condescending, and greatly beloved by his subjects. He is now about sixty three years of age, and has two sons; of which he, who shall live to be his heir, will jointly inherit the authority and dominions both of his father and uncle Rudolphus.

December xxiii.

This morning I take the post waggon for Brunswick, which is seated on the same river as Wolfembutel, in a watry plain, having a large extent, but narrow streets, and houses of the old fashion almost intirely of wood, most of which have a date over the door of three or four hundred years standing. The stadthouse is of the same or greater antiquity, and adorned with a variety of statues on the outside. The town is fortified, but neither with great regularity nor strength. The castle is the residence of the Duke, being an old decayed building. I staid here from nine in the morning till three in the afternoon, where I found the mum, for which this place is so celebrated, not so good, as that they export for sale. It is made only of malt well brewed, and the liquor boiled a second time in an equal quantity of the same. However the art is peculiar to this place, and cannot be imitated at Wolfembutel, tho it is so very near. Nor, on the other hand, can the excellent beer of Wolfembutel be equal’d here. They are likewise famous for a large sort of sausage, which is made of raw meat and spices.

At three a clock I depart for Hanover by the way of Peine, with an intention, as is here the custom, to travel all night. In the way betwixt seven and eight a clock (which at this time of the year had been entirely dark, unless for the benefit of the moon) the post horses tired in an open feild, and refused to stir a step farther; by which means we were detained above an hour, till the postilion procured others from a neighbouring village. I was then in company of an Italian man and a French woman, whose company somewhat relieved the affliction of this accident. By twelve a clock we reach Peine, and after half an hour’s refreshment the Italian and I proceed for Hanover, thro a wide and watry common.

December xxiv.

By eight a clock this morning I arrive at Hanover, where I wait on Mr. Cresset, and his chaplain Mr. Lombard. And being invited by the former to diner, we no sooner rise from table, but news was brought, that my Lord Paget, having changed his mind, had turned out of the road for Heldesheim to this place; to whom therefore I repair at his lodgings without the gate of the city.

December xxv.

Tho this was Christmas day, his Excellency had nevertheless no service in his family. And the day following I made a visit to Mr. Scott, Sir Chumley Deering, Mr. Wright, and some others. The next day being Sunday, his Excellency had service in his family. At five a clock in the evening I was introduced by Mr. Scott, and lady Belmont, to kiss the hand of the Princess Dowager Sophía, who did me the honour to discourse with me half an hour about the state of Turkey. The same night a tragedy was acted at the theatre of the court, and afterwards the Mariage forcé of Moliere; which I then saw, for the opportunity of seeing at the same time the Prince Elector, the Prince his son, and the Princess his daughter, with the Electress Dowager, who were all present.

December xxviii.

His Excellency proceeds in his way to Osnaburg; but I continue still at Hanover, with an intention to take post for Hamburg, and dine this day with Mr. Cresset. The day following in the afternoon I visit the library and cabinet of Abbot Gerhardus, otherwise called Molanus. His cabinet consists of a vast collection of modern coins, particularly those of Germany, among which he has intire sets of the houses of Brunswick and Saxony. He has likewise a rich and numerous collection of medals of all the European kingdoms, stampt upon the most celebrated occasions; and many of them are gold, some of which weigh an hundred ducats, and others but little less. Those of Sweden seemed to me the noblest both for the work and device, particularly one of Gustavus Adolphus, upon marching his army over the frozen Baltick, with this inscription: NATURA HOC DEBVIT VNI. Another of Charles the eleventh, with the reverse of the North star, and inscribed: NESCIT OCCASVM. Those of the house of Hanover are likewise curious, particularly one of the Princess Dowager, stampt by her about fourteen years since; the reverse a sun setting without a cloud, and the words: Senza turbarmi al fin m’accosto. Another of the young Prince George Augustus, the reverse a fountain springing up in a strong perpendicular column of water, with this legend: VIS INSITA DVCIT IN ALTVM. Besides these he has a good collection of antient medals; the most remarkable of which were Julianus the first; and Antinous of the first size, if genuine, the reverse a sheep.

By eleven a clock this night I depart in the post waggon for Zell, and in the way make these observations on Hanover, and the persons I saw there. The town is moderately large, fair, and compact, seated on the Leine, and reasonably well fortified. The palace of the Prince is old, and mean in outward appearance, but within beautiful and splendid. The clergy here is but meanly esteemed, and more meanly provided for; except that Abbot Gerhardus has an income (the sole remainder of church lands not sequestered) to the yearly value of eight hundred pounds sterling. By this preferment he is superintendent of the whole clergy in the territories of the Duke of Brunswick Hanover, and is by the same incapable of marrying. The Elector is a sage, discreet, just, and sober Prince. The Princess his mother is courteous, affable, condescending, and prudent; well versed in the Dutch, English, French, and Italian languages; and gay and vigorous to a miracle at the age of seventy two. The young Prince is brisk, affable, and ingenious. The Princess, daughter to the Elector, comely, ingenious, lively, and her courteous behaviour charms all, who converse with her. Mr. Cresset, who has long resided as Envoy to this court, and those of Zell, Brunswick, and Wolfembutel, is a wise and pious gentleman, has a family well governed, and lives much to the honour of himself and his country.

December xxx.

By seven a clock this morning I arrive at Zell, where I remain the rest of the day, and take that opportunity of seeing the castle; as likewise the venerable old Duke, William George, now eighty years of age; to whom I was admitted by the favour of Mr. Robbeton and Mr. De la Forest, two gentlemen who here shewed me great civility.

December xxxi.

I set forward from Zell, and lodge this night at a post house, in a small village called Sorndorf. The country is here pleasant, with a variety of fir, oak, and other wood, but for the most part barren, and overrun, with heath.

January i.

From Sorndorf I reach Harburg by twelve a clock this day, dine there, and then take boat for Hamburg cross the Elbe. The river is here above a German mile broad, and interspersed with various islands. In the evening I delivered Mr. Cresset’s recommendations to Mr. Aldersey, who thereupon received me courteously, and procured me a good lodging from Mr. Townly in the English house. I was detained here to the twenty eighth of this month, partly by the extremity of the frost, which had made the Elbe now unpassable; and partly by the kindness of our English merchants, who reside in this place.

Hamburg is a free imperial city, chief of the Hanse towns, and seated on the north side of the Elbe, where it receives the Alster. The figure of it is semicircular, being almost straight towards the Elbe, which it receives by many chanels into the very heart of the city. Some of these chanels serve as harbours to the ships, others to convey goods to the magazines of merchants, and others to bring water to the houses, particularly of the brewers, who have cranes to draw water into their vessels. It is about two Italian miles in length, and above five in circumference. The streets are well paved, tho narrow, and the houses beautiful in the front, especially in the Wantrum, the Green, and Catherine street. The fortifications are substantial, consisting intirely of ramparts of earth, covered with grass, and not faced with brick. They are constantly maintained in good repair; tho it is commonly objected to them, that the inward works are too high, so that being raised too much above the outward, they are exposed to the first attack of the enemy. There are six gates, all beautiful and stately buildings; that particularly, which is called the gate of Altena, because it leads to that place, is said to have cost an hundred thousand crowns. The strength of the city was lately tried, in the year 1686 (If I mistake not) by the King of Denmark, who then laid siege to it, tho without success. He had depended upon the treachery of two principal burgers, who had promised to admit him into the town; but their treason being accidentally detected, and they put to the torture, the matter was soon confessed, and they deservedly executed. The head of one of them is still exposed on an iron Spike over the Steingate. In confidence of this concerted treachery that Prince came so unprovided, that he could invest no more of the town, than that which faces Altena which gave occasion to the Holland gazeteer to say, that the King of Denmark had besieged the eighth part of Hamburg. During the siege he was baffled even by the small castle, called Sternfort, about a mile distant from the town; which by a line of communication they releived every day at twelve a clock, and so maintained it against the enemy. To add to the strength of the city they are now building a new detached work, consisting of an intire rampart, to be continued from the east side of the Alster to the Elbe, which is a noble fortification, and will at the same time guard and enlarge the space of the city. It is divided into the New and the Old City, the former of which is the more stately and beautiful of the two.

The religion of this place is Lutheran, in which the government is so strict, as to admit of no other religious assembly, except that of the church of England, which is allowed to the English company. The city is divided into five parishes, that of St. Catharine, St. Peter, St. James, St. Nicholas, and St. John. To each of these are dedicated so many fair and spatious churches, all well adorned with sculptures, paintings, organs, and altars. That of St. Catharine exceeds the rest, and is particularly remarkable for a noble stone pulpit, the whole consisting of the bed marble, carved into the figures of the twelve Apostles, and other religious devices; for several large inimitable pieces of painting in fresco against the north wall; and for a stately organ, supposed to be the largest and finest in the world. It has fifty four stops, and consists of five thousand pipes, all gradually proportioned from the biggest, which is three fourths of an English yard in diameter, to the least, no larger than the last joint of ones little finger. In the same church is admirably well painted the Temple of Solomon in perspective. Besides these parish churches, there is the cathedral, commonly there called the Dome; and a new church in the middle of the New City. The Dome is now almost out of use, except for some occasional sermons; and the porch, with the several isles, are possessed by booksellers shops: tho this is what is likewise common to the porches, and other outward apartments, of the most frequented churches. The five parish churches, and that of the New City, have each of them their pastor, and besides him two or three chaplains; so that the number of clergymen here amounts to above twenty, of which one is superintendant over them, and the clergy of the whole territory. This however is very small, as not reaching down the river Elbe farther than the limits of Altena, a large town within half a mile of Hamburg, belonging to the King of Denmark. On the other sides it is encompassed with the dominions of the Duke of Holstein, at the distance of two or three miles; only up the Elbe it has a narrow tract of ground subject to the city, for the space of twenty miles, in which are some small villages, that acknowledge its jurisdiction. The church lands belonging to the cathedral are now possessed by burgers, or others of the city; but under the same titles, by which they formerly belonged to the church, as dean, canons, and others. Which sequestration, as it seems to be a sacrilegious usurpation; so their continuing the right under the same titles, is only a monument and confession of the crime.

The government of the city is by a free and sovereign jurisdiction of their own, which is lodged in three orders of men, the burgomasters, the senate, and the burgers. The burgomasters are four persons chosen out of the senate, of which two are yearly regent. The senate consists of about twenty, chosen as vacancies happen out of the burgers. The burgers compose the whole body of the citizens, ranked under their five distinct parishes. This government some what resembles that of antient Rome, by consuls, senate, and people; and is excellent in itself, but very liable to be perverted by the prevalency of any of the parts, of which it consists. This is at present seen in the case of Hamburg, where the burgers by reason of their multitude, and the seditious spirit of inferior persons, have so far usurped the power of the place, that they terrify the senate, and stop all public proceedings, which are not to their relish. Particularly they are now so obstinate, as to refuse their consent to the supply towards the war, required by the Emperor, and to other public levies of the city, till they can extort the consent of the senate for restoring one Dr. Meyer to his pastoral office of St James. This is a violent seditious man, suspected of an ill life, but of a ready overbearing eloquence in the pulpit; who, about five years since had quitted his pastoral office in Hamburg, for another like charge, and superintendency in Pomerania. His parishioners now recall him to his cure at Hamburg, which he publicly declines; but privately encourages, and thereby occasions a lamentable faction and sedition in the town. His own and two other parishes press his return, and refuse to treat of other business, till the senate shall consent thereto. But they being duly cautious of admitting so dangerous a person into the city, who is now more particularly suspected of intriguing against them, in dependence on the King of Sweden, will never admit thereof; especially as he insists upon returning in his own rank, and in prospect of the same seniority, he before obtained in the place.

The burgomasters of this place never appear in public, but in a peculiar dress; which consists of an high crowned hat made of cloth, plated thick and strong in numerous folds; with a large ruff; and a black velvet coat ending at the knees, and plaited from the middle. There are likewise several other antient habits used by all public persons, even to midwives, dressers of the dead, and those who bear the corps to funerals. The habit of their divines is a round black cap, a ruff, and a gown without sleeves. All these may commonly be seen at once in the solemnity of a funeral, which they here affect to make very pompous for all persons, even those of little children. The burgomasters, senators, divines, lawyers, physicians, and as many of all sorts, as they can procure, attend the corps from the house to the church; for which they are each paid a certain fee, the chief about a florin, and inferiors proportionably. It is observable, that the bearers of the corps have a peculiar step, all moving their leg at the same time croswise from one side to the other.

This city wholly subsists by trade, which it still enjoys to a great degree. But they now complain, that they begin to be robbed of their former flourishing commerce by Lubeck and Bremen, and even the poor town of Altena, which with regret they see rising under their walls. Here is the staple of linen from Germany; cloth from England; and wines from Spain, France, and the Rhine. Of this last the city preserves a vast stock in public cellars; the largest of which, being a magazine of Rhenish wine, I visited one evening, and was there assured, that they have the wine of every year since 1623; and accordingly we then drank of three sorts, 1623, 1664, and 1678. At the same time I tried the perfect clearness of the loaf sugar of this place; which they purify to such a degree, that it does not discolour the cleared Rhenish wine.

The English company, which upon the decay of Antwerp removed to this place, is a regular, gentile, and hospitable society of merchants. They were here granted large privileges, which they still enjoy; tho at home our English parliament has lately infringed those, which they had permitted them. Their goods from England are imported free of custom, except that they pay a trifle as an acknowledgement. Their own jurisdiction, and religion, is freely granted them. The town first presented them with a large piece of building, which they obliged themselves to keep in perpetual repair. In this there is a public chapel; and an apartment, which they call the Ordinary room, where all the company, who are unmarried, dine and sup at one table, and the deputy governor and assistants meet upon public occasions. Adjoining to it is the house of the deputy governor, the minister, and the secretary; all likewise given by the town, and maintained by them. The governor of this company at present resides in England; but the other officers, as the deputy governor, secretary, and assistants, to the number of twenty four, are all resident upon the place, and dispatch all business relating to the society; which is contrary to the custom of the Turkey company, the governing part whereof always resides in England. The deputy governor and secretary are chosen, or confirmed, either quarterly or yearly; and the same is practised with the minister, whose salary, besides the benefit of an house, is two hundred pounds a year. The number of merchants, assistants, and others, may here amount from thirty to forty persons; and with their wives, children, and servants, their congregation (which is very regular) is seen on Sunday from an hundred and fifty to two hundred persons. My conversation during my stay at Hamburg was chiefly among these; and I had more particularly the friendship of Mr. Free, deputy governor; Mr. Aldersey, secretary; Mr. Emerson, minister; Mr. Stratford, Manning, Lethieullier, and Remington merchants; and their respective families. I preached every Sunday, while I continued here; and received many tokens of favour from the whole company; particularly on the sixteenth of January, a present of a silver tankard, value forty crowns. At the same time I had the honour of being known to Mr. Wyat, her Majesty’s resident at this place, and deputed likewise to the Hanse towns of Bremen and Lubeck.

There is a good and well furnished library belonging to this city, which adjoins to the church of St. John. And during my stay here I had the opportunity of conversing with Jo. Albertus Fabricius, a person of great learning, and famous for some works he has already published. I visited likewise Mynhéer Langerman, a druggist, who shewed me some curious ores; and pieces of eight, fished up from a Spanish wreck; with the piedra de puerco, about the size of a large nutmeg, which is found in the bladder of some hogs in the Philippine islands, a great sudorific, and esteemed a sovereign remedy against intermitting fevers. One stone is usually valued at a hundred ducats.