Chapter VI

The Subject continued — Course of the River Niger, at large — has no Communication with the Nile — Ptolemy’s Description of it consistent.

The course of the Niger (or Joliba) as we have seen, is established, by ocular demonstration, as far as Silla; and may, I conceive, be admitted, as far as Houssa, about 400 miles farther to the east, on the foundation of the information collected by Mr. Park; since it agrees with the ideas communicated to Mr. Beaufoy, by an intelligent Moorish merchant, who had navigated the river: and as it agrees no less with the report of Mr. Magrah, obtained from Moorish merchants at Tunis; and of Major Houghton from Bambouk. Thus, the first 700 G. miles of its course are from West to East; or rather from WSW to ENE. There remains then, a space of more than double that distance, between Houssa and the nearest part of the Egyptian Nile, near Dongola: and yet more, to the known parts of the White river, or Abiad, the SW branch of the Nile.

I shall divide the matter respecting the course of this river, into three heads. 1. Respecting the continuity of its waters, from Houssa on the west, to Wangara on the east; without regard to the direction of the stream. 2. Respecting the positive direction of the stream. And, 3, concerning its termination.

1. Respecting the Continuity of its Waters.

Edrisi gives the most positive information concerning the course of the Niger, or Nile of the Negroes, from east to west; deriving it from the same lake through which the Egyptian Nile passes; and describing it to terminate at 16 journies west of Sala (that is, a little to the west of the position occupied by Tombuctoo); and near the supposed island of Ulil before mentioned.[137] He thus cuts off about 1000 miles of the breadth of Africa. This was an error common to all the ancient geographers, as well as to those of Arabia: for Ptolemy places the mouth of the Senegal river only two degrees more to the west, than Edrisi does that of the Niger.

Abulfeda believed, with Edrisi, that the Niger had a common source with the Nile, and ran westward.[138]

It is certain, that these opinions furnish no proofs of continuity of course: but it may be supposed that there was some foundation for them; especially as Edrisi says, that salt was carried upon the Niger in boats from the island of Ulil, and distributed to the people on its banks, from Sala to Wangara, and Kauga.[139]

Mr. Matra was told[140] that from Kabra, the port of Tombuctoo, “people sometimes travelled along the river the space of 40 days, to Ginny (Ghana) a large city;” &c.

The Moorish merchant, with whom Mr. Beaufoy conversed, and whom he speaks of as a clear and intelligent man, says, “That the country of Guinea or Ginny, is on the same river with Houssa.” (Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS.)

Edrisi, besides mentioning the cities of Sala, Tokrur, Berissa, Ghana, and Ghanara, all of which he says are situated on the Niger, remarks that the country of Wangara, to which Ghanara belongs, is surrounded by that river,[141] as it would appear by means of a subdivision of its waters; for Gatterer says, that Ghanara, one of its cities, stands on the western arm of the Guin,[142] by which name he mentions the Niger; of which more presently. Now, as Wangara extends, according to Edrisi, 300 Arabic miles along the river,[143] this extent, together with the distance of Wangara from Ghana, eight journies,[144] or 152 miles, makes up 496 G. miles of the course of this river, eastward from Ghana; which being itself 500 miles east of Houssa, there will be 969 miles in direct distance, traced eastward of Houssa: or on the whole, as Houssa is 700 miles below the source, about 1670 G. miles of water-course from the head of the Niger, above Manding, to the eastern extremity of Wangara!

In addition to these authorities, I may state from Leo, that the people of Tombuctoo convey their merchandize in boats (or rather canoes) to Ginea, by the Niger: and that at Kabra they embark for Melli, also. But it is proper to be noticed, that he says (p. 249), that this communication with Ginea takes place in the rainy season only (July, August, September), which would imply a deficiency of water for navigation, at other seasons.[145] Leo, however, certainly never saw the Niger, although he seems to report himself an eye-witness of many particulars relating to it. His intelligence is therefore often to be suspected; though it has probably happened, that being regarded as an original author, instead of a compiler, he has given weight to the systems of Edrisi and Abulfeda, respecting the course of the Niger.

Gatterer, as I have hinted before, calls the Niger, Guin, as well at Tokrur and Ghana, as at Wangara.[146] Now we learn from Mr. Park, that the northern branch of the Niger, above Tombuctoo, passes by the town of Jinbala, and collect also from Labat, that it is named the river of Guin: and here we have the same name extended even to Wangara; a presumptive proof of the prolongation of the same river!

Edrisi speaks of the same Niger, or Nile of the Negroes,[147] also, at Kauga, 10 journies to the east of Wangara; from which we collect that he must have supposed, that this emanation of the Egyptian Nile (as he supposed it to be) first ran to the north, and then turned to the west, through Nigritia. And if any consequence can be deduced from his account of the conveyance of salt, along the Niger to Kauga, where the catalogue of places supplied, ends, we should conclude that he supposed the navigable part of the river, ended at Kauga.

Although there can be no question that a river named Nile (or rather Neel), passes through the quarter of Kauga, Angimi, &c. since Edrisi, Abulfeda, and Leo, speak of it, yet it would be advancing too far within the region of conjecture, in this place, to attempt to decide whether it has any communication with the western waters. I shall therefore reserve this discussion till the last; that it may not be allowed to have any weight in the decision of the great question concerning the continuity and direction of the Niger. Having therefore, as I conceive, established the fact of a continuation of the waters from Manding to Wangara, I shall next proceed to inquire into the authorities for the direction of the stream.

2. The Direction of the Course of the Niger.

Ocular demonstration has shewn, that its course is to the eastward, as far as Silla: and no reasonable doubt can be entertained that it continues the same course to Houssa, 400 miles farther to the eastward, even if the information communicated to Mr. Park, could be doubted. For the Moorish merchant before quoted, told Mr. Beaufoy, that he had himself descended the Joliba, from Kabra to Houssa, although he had forgot the exact number of days employed in the navigation; and whether it was 8 or 10 days, (Mr. Park was told 11). But one circumstance dwelt on his mind; which was, that “by the favour of a brisk wind, they returned to Kabra, against the stream, in as short an interval as they went down.” (This is no new fact to those who are accustomed to inland navigations, even of the natural kind.)

The same Moor added, “that from Houssa, going still with the stream, boats went to Jinnee[148] and Ghinea; near the latter of which was the sea, into which the Neel (or Niger) discharged itself.” That this Ghinea lies to the eastward of Houssa and Tombuctoo, has been already shewn; and that at the distance of 40 land journies.

Edrisi says that the navigation from Ghana to Tirka (which latter is in the way to Wangara, admitted by the same authority to lie to the east of Ghana[149]) is with the stream of the Niger:[150] and if this be true, it ought unquestionably to have the same direction all the way from Houssa.

To these notices, of which the most full and positive, is that of an intelligent person who had visited the spot; are to be opposed the reports of Edrisi and Abulfeda, who wrote at a distance, and from the information of others. As to Leo, although his declaration is in favour of the two Arabian geographers, yet his authority loses all its weight, by his saying that the river runs to the west, by Tombuctoo; a fact which, I presume, no one will be hardy enough to contend for. And it will be found, that his descriptions do most completely do away his declaration: so that his testimony is turned against himself by the very context. For after saying that it runs towards the kingdoms of Ginea and Melli, he says also that they lie to the west, in respect of Tombuctoo. Now the contrary has already been made apparent, in page lxv, et seq.; so that in fact, Leo’s descriptions go rather to prove, that the course of the Niger is to the east, than to the west. But after all, his descriptions are the result of hearsay, rather than of observation: and it is plain, that his idea of the course of the Niger, was regulated by the supposed situation of the countries it ran through. Nor had he in his mind the Coast of Guinea, according to our acceptation of the term, when he spoke of the country of Ginea: for in his description of Nigritia he says, that the sea on the south, was unknown[151] to him. Thus the testimonies appear to be clearly in favour of an easterly course of the Niger from Houssa to Wangara. I next proceed to the question respecting its termination.

3. Concerning the Termination of the Niger.

Mr. Beaufoy’s Moor farther says, that “below Ghinea, is the sea, into which the river of Tombuctoo disembogues itself.” This may therefore be considered as the prevailing idea at Houssa and Tombuctoo, at which places he had resided, altogether, about 12 years. By the word sea, it is well known, the Arabs mean to express a lake also; (and even sometimes a river.) Edrisi and others describe large lakes in Ghana and Wangara.[152] And when Leo says that the Niger falls into the sea which borders on Ginea, it is not improbable that the lakes of Ghana and Wangara are meant; and that he was under the same mistake here, in supposing Ginea to be in the neighbourhood of the sea, as in what relates to the position of Ginea itself. In other words, that hearing from the natives, that the Niger expanded itself into lakes below Ghana (or Ginea), he supposed the western ocean to be meant. For it appears (p. 2.) that he had heard, that the Niger had its source in the mountains on the west, and running thence to the east, expanded itself finally into a vast lake: but misled by the supposed situation of Ginea and Melli, he disregarded the information.

He also describes Ginea to be a country annually overflowed by the waters of the Niger, but omits to say the same of Wangara, to which the description more particularly applies. It may be, that as Wangara in more early times formed a part of the empire of Ghana (or Ginea), his ideas might have been collected from some history of those times. I therefore consider his description of Ginea (p. 248), to include both Ghana and Wangara.

Edrisi describes three large fresh water lakes in Wangara, and one in Ghana.[153] The description of Wangara appears to be that of an alluvial country, environed and intersected by the branches of the Niger, and annually overflowed in August. Perhaps August was the time of the highest flood: for Leo says that Ginea (apply this to Wangara, also) is overflowed in July, August, and September; which is indeed the season of swelling of the rivers of the tropical regions, generally.[154]

From this description may be inferred the very low level of the countries of Ghana and Wangara; which level or hollow forms a receptacle for the surplus waters of the Niger, collected during the rainy season:[155] and whose permanent lakes, apparently form receptacles for its waters, during the dry season also. The country of Wangara alone, is said by Edrisi and Ibn Al Wardi to have an extent of 300 miles by 150 (i.e. Arabic miles, of 56⅔ to a degree); and Edrisi’s statement of the distances through it, proves that its length lies in the same direction with the course of the Niger; that is, from west to east[156] Now I have no kind of difficulty in supposing that any river may be evaporated, provided it is spread out to a sufficient extent of surface: and it may be that the level, or hollow, of Wangara and part of Ghana, may present an extent of surface sufficient to produce this effect.[157] And hence these countries must be regarded as the sink of North Africa, at all seasons. No doubt the inhabitants are amply repaid by the fertility produced by the deposition of the waters: but besides this, in the southern quarter of Wangara, they collect an incredible quantity of gold sand, after the waters are gone off, which is carefully sought after, as soon as the rivers regain their beds.[158]

It may be proper to observe, that, according to the estimation which we ought to make, of the quantity of water collected into the Niger, it ought not to bear a proportion to that, collected into the great tropical rivers of Asia; since it receives no branches, but on one side. Of course, it does not drain so great a surface of country, as those which receive them on both sides. Moreover it drains only the tract situated to leeward of the great chain of mountains, which opposes the main body of the clouds; so that more water is discharged by the south, by the rivers of the Coast of Guinea, than by the inland rivers; or by those of Senegal and Gambia.

Ben Ali reported to Mr. Beaufoy, that “it was believed, that the Tombuctoo river terminated in a lake in the Desert.”

On the whole, it can scarcely be doubted that the Joliba or Niger terminates in lakes, in the eastern quarter of Africa; and those lakes seem to be situated in Wangara and Ghana. That it does not form the upper part of the Egyptian Nile, may be collected from two circumstances: first, the great difference of level that must necessarily exist, between the Niger and the Nile, admitting that the Niger reached the country of Abyssinia. For by that time, it would have run at least 2300 G. miles, in a direct line; and near 2000, after it had descended to the level of Sahara, or Great Desert. And the Nile, at the point where the White River (which, alone can be taken for the Niger, if the idea of a junction be admitted) falls in, has more than a thousand such miles to run, before it reaches the sea; and has moreover two or more cataracts to descend, in its way. Besides, Abyssinia is positively a very elevated tract. Mr. Bruce, (Vol. iii. p. 642.) inferred from his barometer, that the level of the source of the Nile, in Gojam, was more than two miles above the level of the sea: and this is repeated in pages 652, and 712; where he says “fully” two miles.

Again, in p. 719, he says, that the flat country of Sennar is more than a mile lower than the high country of Abyssinia, from whence (says he) the Nile runs with “little descent” into Egypt. Hence, the country of Sennar, and the mouth of the White River, of course, may be reckoned about a mile, above the level of the sea. It may however be asked, how this agrees with the idea of an easy descent?[159]

The second circumstance is, that the Niger throughout the tract of Nigritia, in common with all the rivers of that region, swells with the periodical rains, and is at its highest pitch, when the Nile is under the like circumstances in Egypt. Now, considering how long a time it would require, for the waters of Nigritia to reach Egypt, the effect ought surely to be, that instead of what happens, at present, the Nile ought to be kept up to nearly its highest pitch, a very long time after the Niger.

Nor can I believe with P. Sicard and M. D’Anville, that the waters of Kauga and Bornou communicate with the river of Egypt. P. Sicard, it appears, had learnt from a native of Bornou, that the river which passed the capital of his country, communicated with the Nile, during the time of the inundation, by the medium of the Bahr Azrac, or Blue River.[160] M. D’Anville supposed this Nile to be meant for the river of Egypt; and the communication to be effected by the medium of the lake of Kauga; and that it flowed into the White River opposite Sennar. But the space of several hundred miles, which intervenes between this lake and the White River, is very unfavourable to such an opinion; even if the levels could be supposed to allow it. I rather conceive, that Sicard, not aware of the extensive application of the term Neel, or Nile (which in Africa seems to mean any great river), concluded that the river of Egypt alone, could be intended; whereas, I have no doubt but that the river which passes near Kauga and Angimi, was meant: (no matter whether it joins the Niger, or otherwise;) for Edrisi says, that Angimi, in Kanem, situated near the borders of Nubia, is only three journies from the Nile (implied to be that of the Negroes, that is, the Niger).[161] But Angimi must be more than 20 journies to the westward of Dongola, situated on the Egyptian Nile; for Zagua is 20 journies from Dongola to the west,[162] and Angimi 6 from Zagua,[163] in a direction, which at least, increases the distance. Besides, a river of the name of Nile, or Neel, passes by Kauga,[164] which is 30 days to the south-westward of Dongola: and apparently about six from Angimi. Doubtless, this is the Nile intended by the informant of P. Sicard; and can have no relation to the Egyptian Nile, otherwise than in name.

But in the notices respecting the western course of a river, or rivers, from the confines of Nubia, Bornou, &c. I think I perceive abundant reason for belief, that such a course of waters does really exist; although perhaps, not exactly in the mode described.[165] There are notices of a considerable river in Bornou (or Kanem) called the Wad-al-Gazel, or River of the Antelopes, said to join the Nile during the time of the inundations:[166] of another at Kuku, more to the north, said to take its course southward, to the Nile.[167] Also, of a Nile near Angimi and Kauga, before spoken of. And finally, Edrisi[168] says, that a branch of the Egyptian Nile, issuing from the great lake at Tumi, in the south, forms the head of the Niger, or Nile of the Negroes.[169]

Here it is well worth remarking, that Ptolemy describes a branch springing from the SE about the parallel of 10°, and amongst the Nubi, which branch flows into the Gir, a river distinct from the Niger, and appearing to answer to the river of Bornou, &c. This accords exactly with Edrisi’s idea; only that it does not flow from the same lake as the Nile, separated from it only by a mountain. But M. D’Anville, in my idea, interprets very fairly the scope of the intelligence furnished by Edrisi, by supposing that the sources of the two rivers (or the courses of them) were separated only by a ridge of mountains.[170]

Leo says, that the head of the Niger is within 120 miles of the country of Bornou, and in the Desert of Seu:[171] but these notices must be regarded as extremely vague.

Certain it is, that if the eastern waters of Nigritia do not run into the Nile (of which, in our idea, there does not appear a shadow of probability) they must either be evaporated in lakes, or lost in sands. The lake of Kauga offers itself in a position very convenient for the purpose, and a river taken by Edrisi for the Niger, is actually said to pass near it. It has also been shewn, that in the idea of Edrisi, the Kauga lake communicated with the western waters: but whether this is true, or otherwise, it is not possible to decide.

I do not pretend to follow Ptolemy in his description of the rivers in the interior of Africa, with that precision which M. D’Anville has attempted: but this circumstance is clear enough, that he describes them to terminate, as well as to begin, within the continent. The same is to be said of Agathemerus.

It is apparent, that Ptolemy has carried the head of the Niger seven degrees too far to the north, and about four, or more, too far to the west: as also that his inland positions in Africa, as well along the Niger, as at a distance from it, are yet more to the west of the truth. But notwithstanding this geographical error, he proves that he knew many facts relating to the descriptive part of the subject. For instance, he places the source of the Niger, at the mountains of Mandrus, and amongst the nation of the Mandori. It has been seen, that the Joliba rises in the country adjacent to Manding. He marks also a large adjunct to the Niger, from amongst the Maurali, in the south, answering to the river from Malel (or Melli) in Edrisi. To these may be added another particular of agreement. The Caphas mountains of Ptolemy seem meant for those of Kaffaba, a country 9 or 10 journies to the eastward of Kong; 18 short of Assentai (or Ashantee) near the Coast of Guinea.[172] But I have a doubt where to place Ptolemy’s metropolis of Nigritia, in modern geography. His ideas, however, corroborate in the strongest manner, the present system of geography.

Amongst the eastern waters, the Gir of Ptolemy, seems to be recognized in the river of Bornou, and its adjuncts: the Niger, in that of Tombuctoo and Wangara. The Panagra of the same geographer answers to Wangara; and his Libya Palus, which forms the termination of the Niger, eastward, seems to be meant, either for the largest of the lakes, or for the lakes of that country (of which there are several), collectively. It is no impeachment of this opinion, that the Libya Palus is placed so far to the west as the meridian of Carthage, whilst the lakes of Wangara appear to be in that of Cyrene: for Ptolemy carries the river Gir, and the capital of the country which represents Bornou, into the centre of Africa; by which he has shortened the course of the Niger, in the same proportion as he had extended that of the Gir, or Wad-al-Gazel. Modern geographers, to the time of D’Anville, were guilty of the same kind of error: Ghana is about 6° too far west, in Delisle’s map.

It may be best to omit any farther remarks on Ptolemy, at present, and to wait the result of future discoveries. In the mean time, those who are curious to read M. D’Anville’s Memoir on the subject of “the Rivers in the interior of Africa,” will find it in the Mém. Acad. Inscrip. Vol. xxvi.