PREFACE

When, in January 1904, I had returned from taking part in the Swedish Antarctic Expedition, and had begun to work out my notes and collections, it happened to me, as it has happened to so many others before, that every now and then questions cropped up which, for want of material, had to be left unanswered. Gradually also quite new problems presented themselves, and the thought of returning once more to some of the countries I had visited soon arose. One of my companions from the Antarctic, Dr. J. G. Andersson, had just the same experience, but was kept in Sweden by his work as director of the Geological Survey. Without knowing of my scheme, he had got two of our common friends, T. Halle and P. Quensel, interested in our old field of operations in South America, and one day, as we happened to be speaking of it, we considered the possibility of planning a modest expedition, principally for geological and botanical purposes. With a geological survey were connected a number of geographical problems, such as the changes of the land after the Ice Age; the formation and true nature of the Patagonian Channels; the origin of the transverse Andine Valleys; the influence of geology and plant-geography on the landscape, &c. The algological investigations would also lead to the formation of zoological collections, and besides, we thought that in the Patagonian Channels we should have opportunities of making ethnographic studies.

In order to discuss our plans I arranged with Quensel and Halle that they should meet me in Stockholm at the Geological Survey office, and one evening was born the enterprise, afterwards called the “Swedish Magellanic Expedition,” of which the author consented to undertake the leadership, the members being: Carl Skottsberg, born 1880, D.Sc., Lecturer at the University of Upsala; Percy D. Quensel, born 1881, B.Sc. (now Dr.), Upsala; and Thore G. Halle, born 1884, B.Sc. (now Dr.), Stockholm.

I devoted myself to botanical work, but also made most of the insignificant zoological collections. The speciality of Mr. Halle was the survey of fossiliferous deposits, and as a clever bryologist, he assisted me in gathering mosses and other cryptogams. Mr. Quensel was mainly occupied with studies of the eruptive rocks, the origin of the Andes and the phenomena of glaciation. On many occasions the two geologists collaborated.

But it is one thing to make up one’s mind to go to South America, another to get money for such a purpose. The expedition cost about 23,000 Swedish crowns (£1280), and thanks to several funds, scientific societies and private persons, we procured the necessary money without great difficulty. Many useful articles in our equipment were presented to us, and the Swedish Johnson Line in Stockholm gave us a free passage on its steamers to and from Buenos Aires. To all those who assisted us, I have tried to express our gratitude in the preface to the Swedish edition of this book, and have explained how it would have been absolutely impossible to make a journey which lasted nearly two years at such small expense, had it not been for the unparalleled generosity shown by Argentina and more especially by Chile—not that the Argentine Government was less interested, but we spent most of the time in Chile. I need not repeat this, nor my sincere thanks to the representatives of Sweden. There is, however, one thing that I want specially to mention on the occasion of my book being laid before English readers. We spent part of the time in a British colony, the Falkland Islands, where His Excellency the Governor, Mr. W. L. Allardyce, C.M.G., and Mrs. Allardyce, both deeply interested in scientific work in general as also in our personal welfare, did all they could to promote our success. We are also greatly indebted to the Falkland Islands Company Ltd., to its director in London, Mr. F. E. Cobb, as well as to its representatives in Port Stanley, Mr. W. Harding, Mr. W. C. Girling and Lieutenant Colonel A. Reid, D.S.O. (no longer in the Company’s service). We also owe very much to numerous sheep-farmers, Mr. Allen of Darwin, Messrs. Benney of Saunders Island, Mr. Bertrand of Roy Cove, Dr. Bolus (now in Punta Arenas, then in Fox Bay), Mr. Felton of Westpoint Island, Dr. Foley, of Darwin, Mr. Mathews of Port Howard, Mr. Miller of Hill Cove, Mr. Packe of Port Louis, and many others, too numerous to mention. In Chile as well as in Argentina we met and were assisted by a great number of English people; we made good friends wherever we came, and learnt to admire the English nation as the great civilising power of the world.

It may not be considered unnecessary to mention, that during the whole journey under most trying conditions, I and my comrades remained the same good friends as we had been on leaving Sweden. Nothing is so well calculated to try friendship as a wild life away from culture and from other people. In this case friendship certainly stood the test.

C. S.

Upsala, 1911

CONTENTS

PREFACE Page vii

CHAPTER I

THE COASTS OF THE FALKLAND ISLANDS

We leave Sweden: Visits to Buenos Aires and Montevideo: Arrive at the Falkland Islands: Position: Port Stanley and its Social Life: Communications: The Landscape round the Town: Cape Pembroke Lighthouse and the Forest in the Sea: To the West Falklands: Wild Cattle: The Falkland Fox: Adventure on Fox Island: Life on Remote Islands: Roy Cove and the Tale of a Ship’s Adventure: Westpoint Island: Tussock-grass: Bird Life: The Dead Forest Pp. 1-18

CHAPTER II

RIDING THROUGH THE FALKLANDS

Hill Cove, a Fine Settlement: Shepherds and their Life: Ascent of Mount Adam: A Nocturnal Excursion: Saunders Island and a Page of History: Valley of the Warrah River: A Dangerous Passage: Port Howard: Across Country to Fox Bay: A miserable Christmas: Notes on Geology: Lafonia and Port Darwin: A Ride to San Carlos: Return Overland to Port Stanley: Port Louis and its History: Departure Pp. 19-31

CHAPTER III

IN TIERRA DEL FUEGO

Punta Arenas: Babylonian Confusion: Preparations: Dawson Island and the Salesian Mission Station: On the Shore of Lake Fagnano: Hardships in the Azopardo Valley: The First Guanaco: We Pitch the Tents at Fagnano: Pagels: The Betbeder Pass and Discoveries South of it: A chilly awakening: Halle’s Excursion to Lake Deseado: Boat Trip on Lake Fagnano: We Raise our Camp: A Difficult Embarking: Back in Punta Arenas Pp. 32-61

CHAPTER IV

OTWAY WATER AND SKYRING WATER

Cape Froward: Jerome Channel: Patagonian Gold Fever: Along the Shores of Otway: Notes on Vegetation: Fitzroy Channel: Storm: A Solitary Hut: Traces of Indians: Excelsior and Glacier Sounds: Gajardo Channel and a Perilous Boat Excursion: Huemul Aground: The Water of Skyring: Fossiliferous Beds: Another Tale of a Mine: A Nocturnal Adventure: Saved Pp. 62-74

CHAPTER V

THE PATAGONIAN CHANNELS

Preparations: Captain Bordes: Our Indian Interpreter: The Magellan Skärgård: On the Evangelistas Rocks: Unknown Waters: The Patagonian Channels and their Nature: We meet the first Indians: Two Tracks: The Penas Gulf: Baker Inlet: In the unknown Interior of Peel Inlet: Back through Smyth Channel Pp. 75-90

CHAPTER VI

A DYING RACE

Our first Encounter with Aborigines: Appearance: Visit to an Indian Camp: The Indian Wigwam: Food: Hunting and Weapons: Social Customs: Treatment of the Women: Character: Nomadic Life: Canoes: Travelling: Remarkable Portages: Language: Extermination: Views of the Future Pp. 91-103

CHAPTER VII

CHILOÉ AND THE GULF OF CORCOVADO

Chiloé, Historical Retrospect: Ancud, the Capital: Schools: Power of the Roman Catholic Church: The Chilotes and their Life: A Ride to the Pacific Coast: Pudeto River: Primeval Forest of Chiloé: Castro: Adventurous Voyage to Huafo Island: Forest Scenery: Wild Days: To the Island of San Pedro in the Footsteps of Darwin: Quellon: Corcovado, “el famoso”: The Yelcho Valley Pp. 104-124

CHAPTER VIII

IN THE HEART OF CHILE

To the Centre of Chile: Corral and Valdivia: Halle’s Surveys in the Coal-mines of Arauco: Lota: Valparaiso: Santiago and its Swedish Colony: Los Andes: The Uspallata Pass and the Transandine Railway: Aconcagua: Baño del Inca: A Strange Descent: The Great National Festival of Chile: To Port Montt Pp. 125-133

CHAPTER IX

ROBINSON CRUSOE’S ISLAND

The Islands of Juan Fernandez: Discovery and Position: First Impression: Robinson’s “Look-out”: Wonderful Plant World: The Chonta Palm: Marvellous Ferns: Extermination of a Unique Vegetation: The Memorial Tablet of Alexander Selkirk, the real Robinson: The History of the Sandal Tree: The last Sandal Tree: Robinson’s Grotto: Bahia del Padre: Masafuera Island: Topography: Remarkable Plain: Wild Goats: Marvellous Valleys: Our Scientific Results: The Future of the Islands Pp. 134-148

CHAPTER X

ACROSS THE ANDES INTO ARGENTINA

Plans for the Return South: Notes on the Discoveries in Patagonia: The Boundary Dispute between Chile and Argentina: We leave Port Montt: Osorno and Calbuco Volcanoes: Lake Todos los Santos: On the Glaciers of Mount Tronador: Across the Pass: Snowstorm: Bariloche: Preparations for a Long Journey: Our Caravan and Equipment: On Horseback Pp. 149-166

CHAPTER XI

THROUGH NORTHERN PATAGONIA

First Impression of the Pampas: Our First Camping-place: Norquinco: Half the Caravan Disappears!: Inquiries: Across the River Chubut: Life on the Lelej Farm: A Hearty Welcome: Ostriches and Guanacos: Through the Nahuelpan Pass: 16th October Valley: Notes on Vegetation: Along the Futaleufú River to the Chilean Boundary: South Again: In the Valley of the River Carrenleufú: Another Bankrupt Company and a Swedish Colonist Pp. 167-186

CHAPTER XII

THROUGH THE CORDILLERAS TO THE PACIFIC COAST

Salt Lagoons and Abundant Bird-life: The First “Meseta”: The Cisnes Valley: Excursion to the Forest Region: Tuco-tuco and Patagonian Deer: Senguerr River: No Water: Back in Chile: Lamb-marking: The Coyaike Valley: The Aysen Company: To the Pacific Coast: Luxuriant Rain-forest: Return to Aysen Pp. 187-197

CHAPTER XIII

LAKE BUENOS AIRES

The Swamp of Rio Mayo: Meseta Chalia, an Adventurous Passage: Floating Soil and Tuco-tucos: A Dangerous Descent: The Puma: Valle Koslowsky: A Singular Telegraph Office: The Landscape round Lake Buenos Aires: In the Fenix Valley: Interesting Vegetation: Hunting Young Guanacos: Patagonian Fur-trade: Armadillos: Ruckel’s Peril: Difficulties in the Jeinemeni Valley: Ascent of the Mountain ridge at Zeballos River Pp. 198-220

CHAPTER XIV

LAGO BELGRANO

The Zeballos Pass: Natural Features at Lake Pueyrredon: Troublesome Ascent: In the Tarde Valley: Across to Belgrano River: Unexpected Encounter with German Colonists: Our Sin against the Eighth Commandment: Christmas: We Start on the Lake: Contrary Winds: On the Lake Azara: Glorious Mountain Scenery: A Happy New Year! We strike Camp Pp. 221-238

CHAPTER XV

LAKE SAN MARTÍN

Across the High Pampas: Crossing the Rivers Belgrano and Lista: The Troublesome Tuco-tuco Rivulet: Through the Forest to Carbon River: The Fósiles Pass, our Worst Day: Lake San Martín: Start with a Berthon Boat: Head Wind: In the Northern Arm: The Schoenmeyr Glacier: Imminent Peril: “Galley-slavery”: Farewell to San Martin Pp. 239-257

CHAPTER XVI

ACROSS THE SIERRA DE LOS BAQUALES

The Swamps round Laguna Tar: An Unexpected Encounter: Pavo and the Skunk: On the shores of Lake Viedma: Leona River and a Dead Landscape: With Carlos Fuhr: The Ferry-boat on Santa Cruz River: Visit to Cattle’s Farm: A Lady Gaucho: The Baguales Range: Back to Civilisation!: Notes on the History of South Patagonia Pp. 258-271

CHAPTER XVII

LAGO ARGENTINO

Quensel’s Boat Journey in 1908: The Start and Equipment: Squally Weather: Bismarck Glacier, a Splendid Sight: Large Icebergs: With a Canvas Boat in the Ice: To the North Arm: Hell Gate: A Dangerous Landing: A Narrow Escape: Upsala Glacier: Another Clean Shave: Back again with Rich Results Pp. 272-277

CHAPTER XVIII

OUR JOURNEY TO PUNTA ARENAS

Estancia Payne: Importunate Foxes: Cerro Payne, Patagonia’s most Beautiful Mountain: Quensel’s Excursion in 1907: Cerro Donoso: A Bad Day and a Worse Night: Tame Deer: In the Payne Mountains: The White Stag: A Picnic Party: My Excursion to the Inland Ice: A Heavy March: Ultima Esperanza: The Eberhard Family: The Maylodon Cave: A Night’s Ride: We part with our Horses: Arrival at Punta Arenas Pp. 278-295

CHAPTER XIX

THE BEAGLE CHANNEL

Back in the Channels: The Brecknock Pass: Wonderful Glaciers: Lapataia and Lake Acigami: The Mission in Douglas Bay: The Last Yahgans: Notes on Geology: Ushuaia: Bridges’ Farm: Slogget Bay and Gold-digging in Tierra del Fuego: Another Boundary Dispute: Return to Punta Arenas and to Buenos Aires Pp. 296-313

CHAPTER XX

A WINTER TRIP TO SOUTH GEORGIA

We leave on Board the Cachalote: Severe Damage of Engines: Adrift on the High Seas: Exciting Situation: The Engines Repaired: Bad Night on the Coast: At Anchor again: Nature and Position of South Georgia: Climate: Flora and Fauna: Winter’s Unexpected Arrival: Along the Coast: Stormy Days: Whaling: A Singular 1st of May: With Escort to Buenos Aires: Return to Sweden Pp. 314-329

INDEX P. 330

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

To face page

Carl Skottsberg Frontispiece

Percy D. Quensel 4

Thore G. Halle 4

Typical Landscape in East Falkland with quartzite ridge 10

Mollymawk Rookery, West Point Island 16

Penguin Rookery (Eudyptes), West Point Island 16

The Great Stone-run South of Port Louis, East Falkland 28

The Roads of Punta Arenas, South-wester blowing 32

Punta Arenas from the hills 32

Back from the Betbeder Pass 38

Indians at the Dawson Mission Station 38

The Betbeder Valley 52

Mount Svea, with glacier and moraines 52

The Bottom of Ventisqueros Sound 68

The Entrance of Excelsior Sound 72

Our Interpreter, Channels of Patagonia 78

Two Channel Indians 78

Peel Inlet, with great glaciers 90

Indian Camp, Sarmiento Channel 94

Chilote House 106

The Plaza in Ancud, Chiloé 106

The Famous Corcovado 116

Valdivia 126

Harbour at Valparaiso 126

Robinson’s “Lookout,” with commemorative tablet 140

View from top of Masafuera showing canyons 144

Robinson’s Grotto 144

Puerto Montt 158

Ready to start 158

Small Patagonian Sheep Farm 176

Patagonian Rain-forest 194

Fenix River 214

Valley of Antiguos River looking South 214

The Belgrano Pass, with giant basalt pillars 226

West Arm of Lake Belgrano 226

German Colonists, Lake Belgrano 234

Breakfast Table on Christmas Day, Lake Belgrano 234

View of Pampas, near Lake Argentino 262

Dead Landscape, East of Leona River 262

The Bismarck Glacier, Lake Argentino 274

The Upsala Glacier, Lake Argentino (the biggest in Patagonia) 274

Icebergs and Canvas Boat, Lake Argentino 274

Last Hope Inlet 288

The “Neomylodon” Cave, Last Hope Inlet 292

The Beagle Channel, looking West 296

Ushuaia and Martial Mountains 296

Glacier in N.W. Arm of Beagle Channel 296

Panorama South-west side of Lake Acigami 312

“The Winter’s Bark,” Tierra del Fuego 312

The Norwegian Factory, South Georgia 316

A Meeting in South Georgia 316

Humpback Whale, upside down, South Georgia 324

Three Right Whales, South Georgia 324

MAPS

Map of South America At end

The Falkland Islands Facing page 6

Otway and Skyring Waters ” ” 62