PRINCIPLES OF THE THEORY OF BREWING. (continued 2)

To enquire which of the pulpous or which of the farinaceous kinds of vegetables are fittest for the purpose of wine-making, would here be an unnecessary digression. Experience, the best guide, hath, on the one side, given the preference to the fruit of the vine, and on the other to barley. To make a vinous liquor from barley, having all the properties of that produced from the grape, is a task, which can only be compassed by rendering the wort of these, similar to the must of the other.

As malt liquors require the addition of other substitutes, besides water, to, become perfect wines, they can only be ranked in the second class of artificial fermentation. These substitutes are properly called ferments, and merit the brewer’s closest attention.

Ferments, in general, such as yeast, flowers or lees of wine, honey, the expressed juices of ripe fruits, are subjects more or less replete with elastic air, and convey the same to musts, which stand in need thereof. Boerhaave has ranged these, and several others, in different classes, according to their different powers, or rather in proportion to the quantity of air they contain for this purpose.

The juice of the grape, when fermented, forms more lees than the extracts of malt. May we not, from thence, infer that, in the fruit, the elastic air is both more abundant, and contained in a greater number of stronger, though smaller, vesicles, than it is in the malt? The barley, being first saturated with water, germinated only, and then dried with a heat far exceeding that which ripened it, or that which fermentation admits of, has its air in part driven out. The expulsion of air from the worts of beers and ales is still farther effected by the long boiling they undergo. Hence the necessity of replacing the lost elastic air, in order that these extracts may become fermentable. This is effected by means of the yeast, which, consisting of a collection of small bubbles, filled with air, and ready to burst by a sufficient heat, becomes the ferment, which facilitates the change of the wort into a vinous liquor.

The musts of malt generally produce two gallons of yeast from eight bushels of the grain, whereas, in the coldest fermentable weather, and for the speediest purpose, one gallon of yeast is sufficient to work this quantity of malt. Much elastic air still remains in beer, or wine from corn, after the first part of the fermentation is over; for the liquor, separated from the yeast above mentioned, is, at the time of this separation, neither flat, vapid, nor sour; but as yeast, the lees and flowers of malt liquors are of a weaker texture than those of grapes, all artificial fermentations should be carried on in the coolest and slowest manner possible: and beers, but more especially such as are brewed from high-dried, brown malts, (the heat of whose extracts approaches much nearer to that which dried the grain, than is the case in brewing pale malt) ought not to be racked from their lees, as it is frequently practised for natural wines, unless, on account of some defect, they are to be blended with fresh worts under a new fermentation.

As all ferments are liable to be tainted, great care ought to be taken in the choice of them, every imperfection in the ferment being readily communicated to the must. It would not, therefore, be an improper question to be determined by physicians, whether, in a time of sickness, the use of those which have been made in infected places ought to be permitted, and whether, at all times, a drink fermented in a pure and wholesome air is not preferable to that which is made among fogs, smoke, and nauseous stenches.7

Wines from corn are distinguished by two appellations, viz., those of ale and beer. As each of these liquors have suffered in character, either from prejudice or want of a sufficient enquiry, it may be proper to levy the objections made against their use, before we enquire into the means of forming them. The most certain sign of the wholesomeness of wines is transparency and lightness; yet some, which are rich, more especially ales, though perfectly fine, have been said to be viscid.—Transparency appears indeed in many wines, before the oils are attenuated to their highest perfection, and some viscidity may therefore be consistent with some degree of brightness. Where the power of the oils and the salts are equal, which is denoted by the transparency of the liquor, viscidity can only arise from the want of age: this cannot be said to be a defect in, but only misapplication of the liquor, by being used too soon.

That beers retain igneous or fiery particles, seems equally a mistake. Malt dried to keep, has undoubtedly its particles removed by fire, so far as the cohesion of them is thereby destroyed, otherwise it would not be in a fit state to preserve itself sound, or readily to be extracted. For this reason, when the grain comes in contact with the water, which is to resolve it, an effervescent heat is generated, which adds to the extracting power, and should be looked on by the brewer as an auxiliary help; but it is impossible that the malt, or the must, should ever inclose and confine the whole or part of fire employed to form them. Fire is of so subtile a nature, that its particles, when contained in a body, continually tend to fly off, and mix with the surrounding air; so that only an equal degree, with what is in the atmosphere, can be continued in the grain, or any liquor whatever, after it has been, for some time, exposed thereto.—Brown beers, made from malt more dried than any other, from experience, are found to be less heating than liquors brewed from pale malt; which probably arises from hence, that brown beers contain a less quantity of elastic air than pale beers, as pale malt liquors contain less than wines, produced from vegetables in their natural state: and as malt liquors contain their elastic air in bubbles of a weaker consistence than those made from the juices of the grape, the effect of beer, when taken in an over-abundant quantity, is neither of so long a continuance, nor so powerful as that of wine, supposing the quality and quantity of each to be equal. This may appear to some persons to be the effect of prejudice, yet it is but a justice due to the produce of my country, to add, that some physicians have given it as their opinion, that strong drinks from malt are less pernicious than those produced from grapes. As far as these gentlemen have, I hope I may advance, without being thought guilty of assuming too much, or countenancing debauch, by pointing out the wines that occasion the fewest disorders.

SECTION X. OF THE NATURE OF BARLEY.

Barley is a spicated, oblong, ventricose seed, pointed at each end, and marked with a longitudinal furrow. The essential constitution of the parts, in all plants, says Dr. Grew, is the same: thus this seed, like those which have lobes, is furnished with radical vessels, which, having a correspondence with the whole body of the corn, are always ready, when moistened, to administer support to the plume of the embryo, usually called the acrospire. These radical vessels, at first, receive their nourishment from a great number of glandules dispersed almost every where in the grain, whose pulpous parts strain and refine this food, so as to fit it to enter the capillary tubes; and such an abundant provision is made for the nourishment of the infant plant, that the same author says, these glandules take up more than nine tenths of the seed.

Barley is sown about March, sooner or later, according to the season or soil that is to receive it, and generally housed from ten to twenty weeks after. Most plants, which so hastily perform the office of vegetation, are remarkable for having their vessels proportionably larger; and that these may be thus formed, the seed must contain a greater quantity of tenacious oils, in proportion to those seeds, whose vessels being smaller, require more time to perform their growth and come to maturity. This grain, as may be observed, grows and ripens with the lower degrees of natural heat; from whence, and from the largeness of the size of its absorbent vessels, it must receive a great portion of acid parts. It is said to be viscid, though, at the same time, a great cooler, water boiled with it being often drunk as such; and, however it be prepared, it never heats the body when unfermented.

From these circumstances, of its being viscous and replete with acids, it would at first appear to be a most unfit vegetable, from which vinous liquors, to be long kept, should be made; and, indeed, the extracts from it, in its original state, are not only clammy, but soon become sour.

When the grain is at full maturity, its constituent parts seem to be differently disposed than when in a state of vegetation. By germination alone all its principles are put in action; the fibrous parts possess themselves of a great quantity of tenacious oils, leaving the glandules and finer vessels replete with water, salts, and the purest sulphur. If, in this state, the corn is placed in such a situation, that, by heat, the acid and watery parts may be evaporated, the more such heat is suffered to affect it, the more dry, and less acid, will the corn become; its parts will be divided—its viscidity removed; its taste becomes saccharine, by the acids being sheathed or covered over with oils; and these last be rendered more tenacious in proportion to the greater quantity of heat they are made to endure. This process, regularly carried on, is termed malting, and will hereafter be explained more at large.

But, before we enter thereon, it is necessary to consider the state of the grain as it comes from the field.—When mowed, though, upon the whole, it may be said to be ripe, yet every individual part, or every corn, cannot be so. In some seasons, this inequality is so remarkable, as to be distinguished by the eye. The difference in the situation, the soil, and the weather, the changes of the winds, the shelter some parts of the field have had from such winds, are sufficient to account for this, and a much greater variety. When the greater part of the corn is supposed to have come to maturity, it is cut and stacked; the ripest parts having the least moisture, and the fewest acids, as the greenest abound in both. In this state the unripe grains of the corn communicate, to such as are more dry, their moisture and acid parts, which, coming in contact with their oils, an agitation ensues, more or less gentle, in proportion to the power of the acids and water; and from hence is generated a heat, the degree whereof is with difficulty determined.

When this sweating in the mow is kept within its proper limits, the whole heap of the corn, after this internal emotion is over, becomes of one equable dryness, and is not discoloured; but if the grain be put together too wet or too green, the effervescence occasioned thereby will produce such a violent intestine heat, as to charr and blacken the greatest part thereof, nay often make it burst into actual flame.

The effect which a moderate and gentle heat has on the corn, is that of driving the oils towards the external parts of its vessels and skin: by this means, it becomes more capable to preserve itself against the injuries of the weather. The more it is in this state, the backwarder will it be to germinate, when used to this purpose; and if this act is carried too far, or to somewhat like what we have just now mentioned, the plume and root of the enclosed embryo must be scorched, the corn become inert, and incapable of vegetation. This effect is produced by a motion sufficient to remove the particles of the grain from each other beyond their sphere of attraction; and the heat, by which this motion is excited, has been found, in malted corn, to be at about 120 degrees.

It is likely, that vegetables, in general, are susceptible of a large latitude in this respect, according to their different textures. The degree of heat just now mentioned may, perhaps, be applicable to barley alone; the seeds of some grapes endure 126 degrees of heat, and may be capable of being impressed with more, and yet vegetate. But, with corn, if their oils have endured so great a heat, as thereby to be discolored, the seed can by no means be revived. The color of the grain properly indicates the healthy state of the embryo, or future plant; but this, more immediately, is the business of the farmer and maltster, than that of the brewer.

Thus, though it may be disadvantageous to the maltster to steep grain which has not sweated in the mow, as, for want of this, it will not equally imbibe the water; so barley, that is over-heated, or mow burnt, cannot be fit for his purpose. It is, in fact, scarcely possible that any large quantity of barley, from the same stack, should make equally perfect malt, as, on its being put together, the heat generated is always greatest in the centre of the rick, and considerably more there than in its exterior parts.

SECTION XI. OF MALTING.

This process is intended to furnish proper means, for setting the constituent principles of the grain in motion: so that the oils, which before served to defend the several parts, may be enabled to take their proper stations.—This is effected by steeping the barley in water, where it strongly attracts moisture, as all dry bodies do; but it requires some time before the grain is fully saturated therewith.8 Two or three days, more or less, are necessary, in proportion to the heat of the air; for vegetables receive the water only, by its straining through the outward skin, and absorbent vessels, and their pores are so very fine, that they require this element to be reduced almost to a vapor, before it can gain admittance. Heat hath not only the property of expanding these pores, but perhaps also that of adding to the water a power more effectually to insinuate itself.

By the water gaining admittance into the corn, a great quantity of air is expelled from it, as appears from the number of bubbles which arise on its surface when in contact with the grain, though yet much remains therein. A judgment is formed that the corn is fully saturated, so as not to be able to imbibe any more water, from its turgidity and pulpousness, which occasions it readily to give way to an iron rod dropped perpendicularly therein. At this time the water is let to run, or drawn off, the grain taken out of the cistern, and laid in a regular heap, in height about two feet. We have before accounted why moist vegetables, when stacked together, grow hot; so doth this heap of barley. The heat, assisted by the moisture, puts in motion the acids, oils, and elastic air remaining in the corn, and these not only mollify and soften the radical vessels, but, with united power, force the juices from the glandular parts into the roots, which are thereby disposed to expand themselves, and impowered to convey nourishment to the embryo enveloped in the body of the grain. The corn in this heap, or couch, is however not suffered to acquire so great a degree of heat, as to carry on germination too fast, by which not only the finer but also the coarser oils would be raised and entangled together, and the malt when made become bitter and ill tasted; but before the acrospire is perceived to lengthen, the barley is dispersed in beds on the floor of the malt house, and, from being at first spread thin, gradually, as it dries, and as the germination is thereby checked in its progress, it is thrown into larger bodies; so that, at the latter part of this operation, which generally employs two days, much of the moisture is evaporated, its fibres are spread, and the acrospire near coming through the outward skin of the barley. By these signs the malster is satisfied that every part of the barley has been put in motion and separated. It is of great consequence, in making of malt, that the grain be dried by a very slow and gradual heat: for this purpose it is now thrown into a large heap, and there suffered to grow sensibly hot, as it will in about 20 or 30 hours: thus prepared for drying, in this lively and active condition, it is spread on the kiln; where, meeting with a heat superior to that requisite for vegetation, its farther growth is stopped; though, in all probability, from the gentleness of the first fire it ought to be exposed to, none of the finer vessels are, by this sudden change, rent or torn, but, by drying, only the cohesion of its parts removed, rendered inactive, and put in a preservative state. Often, to a fault, the drying of a kiln of malt is performed in 6 or 8 hours: it would be to the advantage of the grain that more than double this time was employed for any intent whatever. It may here be observed, that those oils, which in part form the roots, being with them pushed out from the body of the corn, and dried by heat, are lost to any future wort, not being soluble in water; which is likewise true of those oils which are contained in the shoot or plume; so that the internal part of the malt has remaining in it a greater proportion of salts to the oils than before, consequently are less viscid, more saccharine, and easier to be extracted.

In this process, the acid parts of the grain, though they are the most ponderous, yet being very attractive of water, become weaker, and, by the continued heat of the kiln, are volatilized and evaporated with the aqueous steam of the malt. Thus, by malting, the grain acquires new properties, and these vary at the different stages of dryness; in the first it resembles the fruits ripened by a weaker sun, and in the last those which are the growth of the hottest climates.

When the whiteness of the barley has not been greatly changed by the heat it has been kept in, it is called pale malt, from its having retained its original color; but when the fire in the kiln has been made more vehement, or kept up a longer time, it affects both the oils and the salts of the grain, in proportion to the degree of the heat, and to the time it has been maintained, and thus occasions a considerable alteration in the color. Actual blackness seldom is, and ought never to be, suffered in malts; but in proportion to the intenseness of the fire they have been exposed to, the nearer do they come to that tinge, and from the different brown they shew, receive their several denominations.

The condition the barley was gathered in, whether green or ripe, is also clearly discernible when it is malted. If gathered green, it rather loses than gains in quantity; for the stock of oils in unripe corn being small, the whole is spent in germination, from whence the malt becomes of a smaller body, appears shrivelled, and is often unkindly, or hard. That, on the contrary, which hath come to full maturity, increases by malting, and if properly carried through the process, appears plump, bright, clean, and, on being cracked, readily yields the fine mealy parts, so much desired by the brewer.

The malts, when dried to the pitch intended by the maker, are removed from the kiln into a heap. Their heat gradually diminishes, and, from the known properties of fire, flies off, and disperses itself in the ambient air, sooner or later, as the heap is more or less voluminous; perhaps too in some proportion to the weight of the malt, and as the fire has caused it to be more or less tenacious. Nor can it be supposed that any of its parts are capable of retaining the fire in such a manner as not to suffer it to get away. So subtile an element cannot be confined, much less be kept in a state of inactivity, and imperceptible to our senses. Bars of iron, or brass, even of a considerable size, when heated red hot, cool and lose their fire, though their texture is undoubtedly much closer than that of malt or barley. The experiments made by Dr. Martine, on the heating and cooling of several bodies, leave no room to doubt of this fact, which I should not be so particular about, nor in some measure repeat, was it not to explain the technical phrase used by brewers, when they say, malts are full of fire, or want fire. Hence a prejudice hath by some been conceived against drinks made from brown malts, though they have been many months off the kiln, and have no more heat in them, either whole or ground, than the air they are kept in. The truth of the matter is, that, in proportion as malts are dried, their particles are more or less separated from one another, their cohesion is thereby broke, and, coming in contact with another body, such as water, strongly attract from it the uniting particles they want. The more violent this intestine motion is, the greater is the heat just then generated, though not durable. An effect somewhat similar to what happens on malt being united with water, must occur on the grain being masticated; and the impression made on the palate most probably gave rise to the technical expression just taken notice of.

The minute circumstances of the process of malting will be more readily conceived from what will hereafter be said. The effects that fire will have, at several degrees, on what, from having been barley, is now become malt, are more particularly the concern of the brewer; and that these differ, both as to the color and properties, is certain. A determinate degree of heat produces, on every body, a certain alteration, and hence, as the action of fire is stronger or weaker, the effect will not be the same as what it would have been in any other degree.

Barleys, at a medium, may be said to lose, by malting, one fourth part of their weight, including what is separated from them by the roots being skreened off: but this proportion varies, according as they are more or less dried.

As the acrospire, and both the outward and inward skins of the grain are not dissoluble in water, the glandular or mealy substance is certainly very inconsiderable in volume and weight: but as in this alone are contained the fermentable principles of the grain, it deserves our utmost attention.

We have before seen, that wines, beers, and ales, after the first fermentation, are meliorated through age by the more refined and gentle agitations they undergo, and which often are not perceptible to our senses. To secure this favorable effect, we must form worts capable of maintaining themselves, for some time, in a sound state. This quality, however, if not originally in the malt, is not to be expected in the liquor. Some objections have been raised against this method of arguing, and these aided by prejudices, often more powerful than the objections themselves. It is therefore necessary, as malting may be esteemed the foundation of all our future success, to enquire after the best and properest methods of succeeding in this process. Let us, for this purpose, reassume the consideration of the grain, as it comes from the mow, trace it to the kiln, and observe every change it undergoes by the action of the fire, from the time that it receives the first degree of preservation, to that when it is utterly altered and nearly destroyed.

Barley in the mow, though there its utmost heat should not much exceed 100 degrees, may be extracted or brewed without malting. This the distiller’s practice daily evinces; but then the extracts, made from this unchanged corn, are immediately put in the still after the first fermentation, else they would not long remain in a sound state. Nor is this method practicable in summer time, as the extracts would turn sour, before they were sufficiently cooled to ferment. It is true, by this means, all the charge of the malt duty is saved; but our spirits thereby are greatly inferior to those of the French.—Boerhaave recommends the practice of that nation, which is to let the wines ferment, subside, and be drawn off fine from the lees, before they are distilled. Was this rule observed in England, distillation would be attempted only from malted grain, which, if properly extracted for this purpose, the difference in the spirit would soon shew how useful and necessary it is to give wines (either from grapes or corn) time to be softened, and to gain some degree of vinosity before they are used to this intent.

But might not barleys be dried without being germinated? Undoubtedly they might; but as they abound with many acids and strong oils, they would require a heat more intense than malt does, before they were sufficiently penetrated, and then the oleaginous parts would become so compact, and so resinous, as nearly to acquire the consistence of a varnish, scarcely to be mollified by the hottest water, and hardly ever to be entirely dissolved by that element.

Barley then ungerminated, either in its natural state or when dried, is not fit for the purpose of making wines; but when, by germination, the coarser oils are expelled, and the mealy parts of the grain become saccharine, might not this suffice, and where is the necessity of the grain being dried by fire? I shall not dwell on the impossibility of stopping germination at a proper period, without the assistance of fire, so that sufficient quantities of the grain, thus prepared, may always be provided for the purposes of brewing; nor even insist upon the difficulty of grinding such grain, as, in this case, it would be spongy and tough. I think it sufficient to mention solely the unfitness of this imperfect malt, for the purpose it is to be applied to, that of forming beers and ales capable of preserving themselves for some time. We should find so many acids blended with the water still remaining in the grain, that, in the most favorable seasons for brewing, they would often render all our endeavors abortive, and, in summer time, make it impracticable to obtain from them sound extracts in any manner whatever.

I have heard of a project of germinating grain, and drying it by the heat of the sun, in summer time, in order, by this means, to save the expence of fuel. Though the hottest days in England may be thought sufficient for this act, as well as for making hay, yet, as barley and grass are not of equal densities, the effects would not be the same. This, however, is not the only objection: as the corn, after a sufficient germination, should be made inactive, this very hot season, favorable, in appearance, to one part of the process, would rather forward, than stop or retard, vegetation; for the barley, by this heat, would shoot and come forward so fast as to entangle too much the constituent principles of the grain with one another, and drive the coarser ill-tasted oils among the finer sweet mealy parts, which alone, in their utmost purity, are the subject required for such as would obtain good drinks.

There often appears in mankind a strange disposition to wish for the gifts of Providence, in a different manner than they have been allotted to us. The various schemes I have just now mentioned, if I mistake not, have sprung from the desire of having beers and ales of the same appearance with white wines. But as they are naturally more yellow or brown, when brewed from malts dried by heats equal or superior to that which constitutes them such, all such projects, by which we endeavour to force some subjects to be of a like color with others, are but so many attempts against nature, and the prosecution of them must commonly be attended with disappointments. It is true, that though the germinated grain be dried slack, yet; if they are speedily used, and brewed in the most proper season, they may make a tolerable drink, which will preserve itself sound for some time: but the proportion, which should be kept between the heat which dried the malt, and that which is to extract it, cannot, in this case, be truly ascertained; and, as the grain will be more replete with air, water, and acids, than it ought to be, the drink, even supposing the most fortunate success, and that it does not soon turn acid, will still be frothy, and therefore greatly wanting in salubrity; for an excess in any of the fermentable principles must always be hurtful.

Barley then, to be made fit for the purpose of brewing, must be malted; that is, it must be made to sprout or germinate with degrees of heat nearly equal to those which the seed should be impressed with when sown in the ground; and it must be dried with a heat superior to that of vegetation, and capable of checking it. How far germination should be carried on, we have already seen; the law seems to be fixed universally, as to the extent of the acrospire: the degree of dryness admits of a larger latitude, the limits of which shall be the subject of our next enquiry.

Malt dried in so low a degree, as that the vegetative power is not entirely destroyed, on laying together in a heap, will generate a considerable degree of heat, germinate afresh, and send forth its plume or acrospire quite green. The ultimate parts of the nourishing principles are then within each other’s power of acting, else this regermination could not take place; and such grain cannot be said to be malted, or in a preservative state. Bodies, whose particles are removed, by heat, beyond their sphere of attraction, can no more germinate; but, coming in contact with other bodies, as malt with water, they effervesce. The grain we are now speaking of first shews this act of effervescence, when it has been thoroughly impressed with a heat of 120 degrees, and a little before its color, from a white, begins to incline to the yellow. Such are the malts, which are cured in a manner to be able to maintain themselves sound, though in this state, and at this degree of dryness, they possess as much air, and as many acid and watery particles, as their present denomination can admit of. This therefore may be termed the first or lowest degree of drying this grain for malt.

To discover the last or greatest degree of heat it is capable of enduring, the circumstance to guide us to it, though equally true, is not so near at hand as effervescence, which helped us to the first. We must therefore have recourse to the observation of that heat, which wholly deprives the grain of its principal virtues. Dr. Shaw observes, alcohol is one of the most essential parts of wine; when absent, the wine loses its nature, and, when properly diffused, it is a certain remedy for most diseases incident to wines, and keeps them sound and free from corruption; from whence was derived the method of preserving vegetable and animal substances.—The same excellent author had before this observed, that no subjects but those of the vegetable kingdom are found to produce this preserving spirit. Is alcohol, then, a new body, created by fermentation and distillation; or did it originally, though latently, reside in the vegetable? I have for a good while been satisfied, by experiments, says Boerhaave, that all other inflammable bodies are so only as they contain alcohol in them, or, at least, something that, on account of its fineness, is exceedingly like it; the grosser parts thereof, that are left behind, after a separation of this subtile one, being no longer combustible.

Now, as the same author has clearly proved9 that fire, by burning combustible bodies, as well as by distilling them, separates their different inflammable principles, according to their various degrees of subtilty, the alcohol residing in the barley, when exposed to such a degree of heat as would cause it to boil, i. e. 175 degrees, must make great efforts to disengage itself from the grain. Is it not, therefore, natural to conclude, that, in a body like malt, whose parts have been made to recede from one another, (from whence it is porous, and easily affected by fire,) prepared for fermentation, or the making a vinous liquor, this event will probably happen at the same time when the body of the grain has been ultimately divided by fire, or that malt charrs? and if this is true, may not charring be termed the last degree of dryness, when, even somewhat before it takes place, the acid parts and finest oils, which are necessary for forming a fermentable must, fly off, and cannot be recovered.—Charring seems to be a crisis in solid bodies, somewhat analogous to ebullition in fluids; both being thereby perfectly saturated with fire, their volatile and spiritous parts tend to fly off. In charring, the subject being ultimately divided by fire, the constituent principles are set at liberty, and escape in the atmosphere, in proportion to their several degrees of subtilty, and to the fire which urged them. In boiling they are equally divided, and incline to disperse; but, even the more volatile, being surrounded with water, a medium much denser than themselves, they are caught up therein, and, by the violent motion caused in boiling, entangled with it, and with other parts it contains, so as not to be extricated or divided therefrom except by the act of fermentation. Now, as liquors boil with a greater or less fire in proportion to their tenacity and gravity, solid bodies may likewise be charred by various proportions of heat. The whole body of the barley, as its different parts are of different texture, cannot, at the same instant, become black, nor, where any quantity of the grain is under similar circumstances, if not equally germinated, can the whole charr with the same degree.

To the several reflections, before made, I thought proper to add the surer help of experience. I therefore made the following trial, with all the care I was capable of. If the effects of it appear satisfactory, by gaining two limited and distant degrees, we may determine and fix the properties of the intermediate spaces, in proportion to their expansion.

In an earthen pan, of about two feet diameter, and three inches deep, I put as much of the palest malt, unequally grown, as filled it on a level to the brim. This I placed over a little charcoal, lighted in a small stove, and kept continually stirring it from bottom to top.

At first it did not feel so damp as it did about half an hour after. In about an hour more, it began to look of a bright orange color on the outside, and appeared more swelled than before. Every one is sensible that a long-continued custom makes us sufficient judges of colors, and this sense in a brewer is sufficiently exercised. Then I masticated some of the grain, and found them to be nearly such as are termed brown malts. On stirring, and making a heap of them, towards the middle, I placed therein, at about half depth, the bulb of my thermometer; it rose to 140 degrees: the malt felt very damp, and had but little smell.

At 165 degrees, I examined it in the same manner as before, and could perceive no damp; the malt was very brown, and on being chewed, some few black specks appeared.

Many corns, nearest the bottom, were now become black, and burnt; I placed my thermometer nearly there, and it rose to 175 degrees: but, as the particles of fire, ascending from the stove, act on the thermometer, in proportion to the distance of the situation it is placed in, through the whole experiment an abatement of five degrees should be allowed, as near as I could estimate.—Putting, a little after, my thermometer in the same position, where about half the corns were black, it shewed 180 degrees. I now judged that the water was nearly evaporated, and observed the heap grew black apace.

Again, in the centre of the heap, raised in the middle of the pan, I found the thermometer at 180 degrees; the corn tasted burnt, the surface appeared, about one half part a full brown, and the rest black. On being masticated, still some white specks appeared, which I observed to proceed from those barley-corns which had not been thoroughly germinated, and whose parts cohering more closely together, the fire, at this degree, had not penetrated. The thermometer was now more various, as it was nearer to, or farther from, the bottom; and, in my opinion, all the true-made malt was charred, for their taste was insipid, they were brittle, and their skins parting from the kernel.

I, nevertheless, continued the experiment, and, at 190 degrees, still found some white specks on chewing the grain; the acrospire always appearing of a deeper black, or brown, than the outward skin; the corn, at this juncture, fried at the bottom of the pan.

I still increased the fire; and the thermometer, placed in the middle, between the bottom of the pan, and the upper edge of the corn, shewed 210 degrees. The malt hissed, fried, and smoked abundantly. Though, during the whole process, the grain had been kept stirring, yet, on examination, the whole was not equally affected by the fire. A great part thereof was reduced to perfect cinders, easily crumbling to dust between the fingers, some of a very black hue, without gloss, some very black, with oil shining on the outside. Upon the whole, two thirds of the corn were perfectly black, and the rest of a deep brown, but more or less so, as the grains were hard, steely, or imperfectly germinated. This was easily discovered by the length of the shoot: most of the grains seemed to have lost their cohesion, and had a taste resembling that of high-roasted coffee.

In the last stage of charring the malt, I placed over it a wine glass inverted, into which arose a pinguious oily matter, and tasted very salt. It may, perhaps, not be unnecessary to say, that the length of time this experiment took up, was four hours, and that the effect it had, both on myself, and on the person who attended me, was such as greatly resembled that of inebriation.

Though, from this experiment, the degree of heat at which malt charrs, is not fixed with the utmost precision, yet we see that black specks appeared, when the thermometer was at 165 degrees; some of the corns were entirely black at 175, others at 180. In proportion as fire causes a deficiency of color, it must occasion a want of fermentable properties, the whole of which are certainly dispersed, when the grain becomes of an absolute black. Thus we may conclude, with an exactness surely sufficient for the purposes of brewing, that true germinated malts are charred in heats, at about 175 degrees: as these correspond to the heat at which pure alcohol, or the finest spirit of the grain itself, boils, it seems to require this heat, wholly to extricate itself from the more tenacious parts of the corn; which, when deprived of this etherial enlivening principle, remains inert, incapable of forming a fermentable must or wort, and indicates to us, that the constituent parts of vegetables may be resolved by heats, equal to those between the first degree which formed them, and the last, which ultimately destroys their properties; though the extracts will possess different qualities or virtues, according to the determinate heat which is applied.

SECTION XII. OF THE DIFFERENT PROPERTIES OF MALT, AND OF THE NUMBER OF ITS FERMENTABLE PARTS.

The consequences resulting from the before-mentioned experiment have already been hinted at. But it is necessary to trace them farther, and to shew how much they tend to the information and use of the brewer.

Germinated barleys, so little dried, as that their particles remain within their sphere of attraction, are not in a preservative state, and therefore cannot properly be termed malts.

The first degree of dryness, which constitutes them such, as we have seen before, is that which occasions them to cause some effervescence. This cannot be effected, when they are dried with less than 120 degrees of heat; the highest that leaves them white. When urged by a fire of 175 degrees, they are charred, black, and totally void of fermentable principles. Now this difference of heat, being 55 degrees, and producing in the grain so great an alteration, as from white to black, the different shades or colors, belonging to the intermediate degrees, cannot, with a little practice, be easily mistaken.

White, we know, from Sir Isaac Newton’s experiments, is a composition of all colors, as black is owing to the absence of them. These two terms indicate the extremes of the dryness of malt. The color, which the medium heat impresses upon it, is brown, which, being compounded of yellow and red, the four tinges which shade malt differently, may be said to be white, yellow, red and black. The following table, constructed on these principles, will, on chewing the grain, readily inform the practitioner of the degree to which his malts have been dried. It is true some doubts have arisen, whether the increase of heat is by equal divisions (according to the scales marked on thermometers) or whether the degrees should not rather be in proportional parts: but if the effect of fire on bodies (as every experiment shews) is exactly corresponding to the expansion it is the cause of, this undetermined question in no wise affects the brewery.

A TABLE of the different Degrees of the Dryness of Malt, with the Changes of Color occasioned by each Increase of the Degrees.

Degrees.

119WhiteWhite

124W. W. YellowWhite turning to a light Yellow.

129W. W. Y. Y.Yellow.

134W. W. Y. Y. Red,High yellow.

138W. W. Y. Y. R. R.Amber.

143W. Y. Y. R. R.Light brown.

148Y. Y. R. R.Brown.

152Y. R. R.High brown.

157Y. R. R. Black,Brown inclining to black.

162Y. R. R. B. B.High brown, speckled with black.

167R. R. B. B.Half brown, half black.

171R. B. B.Coffee color.

176Black,Black.

N. B. The several letters against each degree, it is apprehended, will help in practice to fix the color.

The foregoing table not only enables us to judge of the dryness of the malt by its color, but also, when a grist is composed of several sorts of malt, to foresee the effect of the whole when blended together by extraction. Some small error may possibly occur in judgments thus formed upon the report of our senses; but as malt occupies different volumes, in proportion to its dryness, if, in the practice of brewing, upon mixing the water with the malt, the expected degree is observed, such parcel of malt may be said to have been judged of rightly, in regard to its dryness. So that the first trial either confirms or corrects our opinion thereof.

Though malt, dried to 120 degrees, is in a preservative state, yet is it the least so as malt: it then possesses the whole of its fermentable principles, which, if not impeded in the extraction, would be very speedy and active: the duration of the worts to be formed from grain so low dried, must entirely depend on the power given to the water by heat, to draw from the malt, oils of such consistence as shall sheath and retard the hasty effects of the fermentable parts. By extraction, then, malted grain, even so low dried as this, may, with very hot waters, and with the farther assistance of hops, be made to produce beers, which for years will be capable of maintaining themselves sound, or for a long time to resist the effects of the hottest climates. They may also, by a less heat being given to the extracting water, and blended with less hops, form drinks, which shall be fit for use in so short a time as a week, and perhaps a term much shorter: hence we see the degree of heat which dried the malt, and the degree of heat given to the water to extract it. The mean of these numbers (making an allowance for the quantity of hops used) is that which directs us to fix the properties and duration of the wort. In one sense, then, we may consider malt, so low dried as this, as being such as would in the shortest time furnish us with a fermented liquor, and in another, such as would yield the most delicate and strongest drink. When malt charrs, and becomes black, its parts are ultimately divided; it has lost the principles fit to form a fermentable wort, and which it once possessed. The degree of heat, prior to that which produces this effect, is the last which still retains any part of the fermentable properties. In worts from malt thus highly impressed by fire, fermentation would proceed with so slow and reluctant a pace, that, in this case, they might be said to be in the utmost state of preservation. No term can be fixed for their duration. A liquor of this sort, brewed with the greatest heat it would admit of, in the extracting water, might keep many years, and become rather accommodated to the temperature of the place it was deposited in, than to its own constituent parts. Experience has shewn, that drinks, impressed by the drying and extracting heat, with a medium of 148 degrees, with a proper addition of hops, at the end of eighteen months, have been found sound, and in a drinkable state; and at this degree we find the middling brown.—From these two extremes, and on these principles, the following table is formed, exhibiting the length of time drinks made from malt, impressed with each respective degree of heat, properly brewed, in the most favourable season, will require, before they come to their due perfection to be used.

Equally as with hot extracting waters, low dried pale malt may be made to yield beers which will long continue in a sound state; so high dried malt, acted upon by cooler and low extracting water, may be made to furnish a wort soon fit for use, though less agreeable and more inelegant. It might here be asked, why, then, at any time, is malt dried with heats exceeding 120 degrees? In answer to this, it might justly be said, it would be very difficult for the malster exactly to hit this point of drying, without deviating from it either on the one side or on the other; and suppose this difficulty removed, still he could not be certain every individual grain was equally affected: if the drying was less than 120 degrees, the malt, by receiving the moist impressions of the air, would regerminate, and be spoiled. Before the use of hops, malt was high dried, as a means to keep the extracts sound. To eradicate an ancient custom or prejudice requires a long time. This, and the conveniency of keeping malts, was the reason why, for many years, it was in general dried to excess; an error which for some time past has been losing ground, as no reason at present subsists, why malts should exceed in color a light amber.

A TABLE, shewing the age beers will require, before being used, when brewed from malts, which, in drying and extracting, have been impressd with a medium heat corresponding to the following degrees.

Degrees. Shortest time with 12 lb. of hops. Longest time with 12 lb. of hops. Shortest time wit the fewest quantity of hops possible.

1192Weeks

1241Month3Months}Brewed in the proper saison{2 Weeks

1293Months6Months4 Weeks

1344Months9Months6 Weeks

138106Months12Months6 Weeks

1437Month3Months}Brewed in summer{2 Weeks

1489Month3Months2 Weeks

15210Months18Months

15718Months2Years

1622Years

167

171

176

It must be observed, that the foregoing table is constructed on the supposition, that these different sorts of malt are brewed, fermented with the utmost care, with waters heated to extract it, in proportion to the dryness of the grain, and to intent of time there set down, and with an adequate addition of hops; an ingredient which shall be considered in its proper place. What is meant by the water being heated to extract malt in proportion to the dryness of the grain, may merit some explanation.

Grapes, when ripe, carry with them the water they have received, both during their growing state, and that of their maturity. This quantity is sufficient to form their musts with. To dried grapes or raisins, water is added, to supply what they have lost; and for the same reason it is requisite in regard to malt: but as grapes stand in no need of artificial fire, to give to their fermentative principles a due proportion, so what they produce themselves, or cold water applied to them, when dry, is a sufficient menstruum. But barleys, wanting the assistance of a great heat to bring their parts to the necessary proportion, require, when malt, a similar or rather a greater heat to resolve them: without which, experiment shews, the flour of the grain would come away undissolved, and thus considerably impoverish the grist.—Should, on the other hand, too great a heat be applied, an equal loss would be sustained, from some of the finer parts being coagulated or blended with oils, tenacious beyond the power of fermentation to exhibit them. The proportioning therefore the heat of the water to the dryness of the malt, more especially to obtain from the grain the whole strength it is capable of yielding, as well as to cause the drink to preserve itself sound its intended time, is of real necessity.

Well-brewed drinks should not only preserve themselves sound their due space, in order to be meliorated by time; they should likewise be fine and transparent.—These circumstances prove the artist’s skill and care, as well as the salubrity of the drink; and are the surest signs of a well-formed must, and of a perfect fermentation. If then the rules for obtaining these ends can be deduced from the foregoing principles and experiments, we may flatter ourselves with possessing a theory, which will answer our expectations in practice.

According to the laws of nature discovered by Sir Isaac Newton, the spaces between the parts of opaque bodies are filled with mediums of different densities, and the discontinuity of parts, each in themselves transparent, is the principal cause of their opacity. Salts in powder, or infused in an improper medium, will intercept the light; gums make a muddy compound, when joined to spirits; and oils, unassisted by salts, refuse to be incorporated with water. Musts, therefore, whose constituent parts are not capable of being dissolved by water into one homogeneous body, are not fit, either for a perfect fermentation, or a pellucid drink.

Length of time, which improves beers and wines, often rectifies our errors in this respect; for the oils being, by various frettings, more attenuated, and more intimately mixed, the liquor is frequently restored, and becomes of itself pellucid. Yet I never found this to succeed, where the error upon the whole of the dryness of the malt, and the heat of the extracts, exceeded the medium by 10 degrees.

Art has also, in some measure, concurred with nature to remedy this defect. When beers or wines have been suffered to stand, till they are rather in an attracting than in a repelling state, that is, when their fermentations and frettings apparently stand still; then, if they do not become spontaneously fine, they may be precipitated, by mixing with them a more ponderous fluid. The floating particles, that occasioned the foulness, are, by this means, made to subside to the bottom, and leave a limpid wine: but the power of dissolved isinglass, the ingredient generally used for this purpose, seldom takes effect, when the error exceeds the medium, as before, by more than 10 degrees.

Other ingredients, indeed, have been used, which carry this power near 10 degrees farther. It is not my province to determine, whether such be salutary: undoubtedly it would be better if there were no occasion for them. Beyond these limits, precipitation has no effect; the liquor, which cannot be fined thereby, if attempted, by increasing the quantity of the precipitants, will be overpowered by the menstruum, and injured in its taste. How frequent this last case of cloudiness is, would answer no purpose in this place to enquire. The use of doubtful ingredients, and such errors as have been mentioned, need no longer blemish the art, when a constant and happy practice, will be both the effect and the proof of a solid and experimental theory.

Beers which become bright of themselves, or by time alone, as well as those precipitated either by dissolved isinglass, or by more powerful means, each possess their respective properties in a certain latitude or number of degrees; and as these effects arise wholly from the heats employed in drying the malts, and in forming the extracts, the following table will be of use to point out the limits, within which each drink may be obtained.

A TABLE, shewing the tendency beers have to become fine, when the malt, in drying and extracting, has been impressed with heats, the medium of which answers to the following degrees, supposed to be brewed and kept in the most eligible manner.

Deg.

119 White,}Immediately.}Latitude of musts which fine spontaneously.

124 Inclining to yellow,

129 Yellow, 2 Months.

134 High yellow, 4 Months.

138 Amber, 6 Months.}Latitude of musts which fine by precipitation.

143 Light brown, 8 Months.

148 Brown, 10 Months.

152 High brown, 12 Months.

157{Brown, inclining to black,}14 Months.}Latitude of heats which cannot form musts, so as to answer the intent of becoming wholesome beer.

162{High brown speeckled with black}18 Months.

167 High brown half black 18 Months.

171 Coffee color,}20 Months.

176 Black,

The difference between the heat for forming grapes, and the greatest heat which ripened them, affords to us the number of degrees answerable to their constituent parts: the investigation of barley, in like manner, though less important to our purpose, yet may, with some propriety, be admitted.

Upon examination it will be found, barley ears, and the new grain begins to form (being still in possession of its flower) about the same time with us as grapes do, in June; when we found the mean heat of the air in the shade to be 57.60 degrees.

Barleys in general are mowed from August to September; so that, in their growth, they are benefited by the whole of our summer’s heat, and for like reasons as in page 59, we estimate this 61.10 degrees: 3.50 degrees then would be the number of their constituent parts, taken from the degrees of heat in the shade, and which perhaps would be different if the actual sun-shine heat and what is reflected from the earth, were accounted for. Barleys are annuals, unbenefited by the whole of the autumn sun; but, after being mowed, they are stacked, retaining still much of their straw, leaves, and outward skins. In these heaps they heat, more or less, according to the condition in which they were housed; and which heat may reach to 120 degrees or more, but in general is equal, or somewhat superior, to that of our bodies. The properties of the grain, by this means improved, ripen, and from hence are more capable of preserving themselves. This might be a reason why a farther allowance should be made to the number of degrees denoting their constituent parts: how much, by a very great number of observations, made from the germination, ripening, to the stacking of the barley, in many years, and in many cases, might probably be ascertained; but the difficulty of doing this, and afterwards the impossibility of complying with the information such enquiries would afford, and the little need there is for it, as nature has allowed a considerable latitude for our deviating from what may be styled perfection, without any sensible injury: these circumstances render such enquiries unnecessary, if not fruitless.

Vegetables, but more particularly barley, from their first origin to such time as they might be ultimately separated by fire, may be divided into different periods, according to the distinct properties belonging to each, (and each of these require again a more exact enquiry.) Barley is under the act of germination, so long as the acrospire or stem is within the outward skin of the parent corn; this excluded, it vegetates so long as it receives nourishment by the interposition of its roots. It may be said to be in a state of concentration, when receiving but little or no support from the earth, yet it is acted upon by such heats as do not exceed what it might bear in the vegetative period; and in that of inaction, when, by the power of heat, it is placed in a passive state. Now malt is barley germinated, and, by a quick transition, is impressed with heats superior to those admitted in vegetation, and such as places the corn in a state of inaction. In the beginning of the process of malting, the more tenacious oils, together with some salts, are excluded from the body of the grain, to form the vessels requisite to forward the growth of the future plant. What remains in the parent grain (that choice food, at first necessary to the infant barley) are saccharine salts, alone applicable to the brewer’s purpose, and of the nature and quantity of which, he ought to be well acquainted. To retain these, and prevent a waste thereof, the germinated corn is placed in such heat, as destroys the union between its parts, from whence it becomes inactive. When this intent is obtained by the least heat capable of effecting it, the malt retains both its color, and the whole of its properties.

Vegetables, in no part of their growth, are ever affected by heats so great as to disperse their constituent parts; on the contrary, by natural heats, in general they are improved. The whole of their elements then, must be measured from the first degrees which form them, to the last which procure their highest perfection; and in climates where they are not benefited by the whole of such heat, their properties must be accounted only so many degrees, as in such places are between the extremes of their germination and maturation. Alike with malt, their whole number of constituent parts, denoted by degrees of heat, must be so many as are comprehended between that degree which leaves it in possession of the whole of their elements, and the first heat which excludes a part; for malt more dried than this, being less perfect, and losing some of its properties, fewer must remain.

The degree of heat which in malt divides the period of germination from that of inaction, we have found to be 119; the grain then is perfectly white, and shews little if any sign of effervescence; the first change, fire occasions therein, is to impress it with a light yellow color; this takes place at 129 degrees of heat, an alteration which can proceed from no other cause, but, in removing its original whiteness, to have expelled some of its primitive parts. The difference then between these two numbers of 10, specifies, in degrees of Fahrenheit’s scale, the number of properties constituting barley, malt.

It must be confessed this is establishing a principle of the art of brewing, upon the uncertain report of our senses, as perhaps our sight may deceive us in fixing this change of color exactly at 129 degrees; but we know white and black to be the two extremes of the dryness of malt, and that the middle color between them is brown, which being compounded of yellow and red, these four tinges, equally divided, as we have done in the foregoing tables, will corroborate our fixing the teint of yellow at this degree. The table shewing the tendency beers have to become fine, was formed from experiments made on brewings, whose governing medium heats were from 134 to 148, the proportion in point of time given by these, justifies the division between immediate pellucidity, at 119, and that taking place at two months, or 129 degrees. So from hence we may be satisfied, however an absolute perfection cannot be depended upon, yet this being the most exact division our senses afford, it approaches so near to truth, that if any mistake remains, it can be but trivial, compared to the latitude of errors, fermentation and time correct. But this number, 10 degrees, denoting the quantity of fermentable parts, must lessen in proportion as a continued, or a greater heat deprives the grain of more properties. A speedy spontaneous pellucidity is the effect of the whole fermentable parts; malt affected by heat, conveyed either through air or water, or through both, (so the medium of these exceeds not 138 degrees,) if assisted by the acids gained to the drink by long standing, such will obtain transparency. Beers, then, intended to be formed of themselves to become fine, in the calculations used to discover their elements, so many of the members of the constituent parts must be implied, as corresponds with the time the beer is intended to be kept; but when beers are made intentionally to require precipitation to become fine, in such proportion as we purpose to impress opacity on the drink, we must, in the calculations made to discover the temperature of the extracts, imply only so many of the constituent parts, as correspond to the medium heat which will occasion this foulness. These few observations shew the necessity of establishing this fundamental doctrine, the use of which will obviously appear in practice.

Thus does the success of this art depend on the instrument so often mentioned, which, by indicating the expansions caused by different heats, becomes a sure guide in our operations. I shall now close this account, by comparing with the principles here laid down, the defects which we, but too often, meet in barley when malted.

SECTION XIII. OBSERVATIONS ON DEFECTIVE MALTS.

In the preceding enquiry, some of the defects of malt have been occasionally mentioned: but as a perfect knowledge of the grain, especially when it has undergone this process, is a matter of no small concern to the brewer, I shall now bring such defects into distinct view, both to compare them with the foregoing principles, and that the knowledge of them may be more at hand, on every occasion, when wanted.

Every different degree of heat acting on bodies causes a different effect: and this varies also, as such heat is more or less hastily applied. The growth of vegetables is in general submitted to these laws: but yet I conceive there is some difference between germination and vegetation, which I beg leave to point out. The former seems to be the act caused by heat and moisture, while the plume or acrospire is still enveloped within the teguments of the parent corn, and it is most perfectly performed by the gentlest action, and consequently by the least heat, that is capable of moving the different principles in their due order. Vegetation, again, is that act which takes place when the plant issues forth, and, being rendered stronger by the impressions of the air, becomes capable of resisting its inclemencies, or the warmth of the sun-shine. Germination is the only act necessary for malting, the intention being solely to put in motion the principles of the grain, and not to rear up the embryo to a plant. Now, as this begins in barley at the degree where the water first becomes fluid, or nearly so, the cold season, when the thermometer shews from about 32 to 40 degrees, would seem the most proper for this purpose. How far its latitude may with propriety be extended, experience alone can determine. Maltsters continue to work so long as they think the season permits, and leave off generally in May, when the heat of the water extends at a medium from 50 to 55 degrees. But the nearer they come to this medium, with the greater disadvantage must they malt: as, by such warmth, the vessels of the corn are much distended, the motion of the fluids violent, and the finer parts too apt to fly off. Thus the coarser oils gaining admittance, the glandular parts become filled with an impure and less delicate sulphur, which, instead of a sweet, inclines to a bitter, taste. This is so manifest, and so universally experienced, that, in general, brewers carefully avoid purchasing what is termed latter-made malts.

Malt, which has not had a sufficient time to shoot, so that its plume may have reached to the extent of the inward skin of the barley, remains overburthened with too large a quantity of earth and oils, which otherwise would have been expended in the acrospire and radical vessels. All those parts of the corn which have not been separated, and put in motion by the act of germination, will, when laid on the kiln to dry, harden and glutinize: no greater part thereof will be soluble in water, than so far as the stem or spire of the barley rises to, or very little farther, and as much as is wanting thereof will be lost to the strength of the drink.

When malt is suffered to grow too much, or until the spire is shot through the skin of the barley, which is not often the case, though all that is left be malt, that is, containing salts dissoluble in water, yet as too large a portion of oils has been expended out of the grain, such malts cannot be fit to brew drinks for long keeping.—There is, besides, a real loss of the substance of the corn, occasioned by its being overgrown.

Malt, the germination of which has reached and been stopped at the proper period, and has been duly worked upon the floors, if not sufficiently dried on the kiln, even though the fire be excited to a proper heat, retains many watery parts. The corn, when laid together, will be apt to germinate afresh, perhaps to heat so as to take fire; should not this extreme be the case, at least it must grow mouldy, and communicate an ill flavor to the drink.

Malt, well grown, and worked as before, but over-dried, though with a proper degree of heat, will become of so tenacious a nature, as to require a long time before it can admit of the outward impressions of the air to relax or mellow it, that is, before it is fit to be brewed with all the advantages it otherwise would have; and in proportion as it has black specks on being masticated, so much of its parts being charred is a diminution to the strength of the liquor, besides impressing it with a burnt or nauseous taste.

Malt, dried on a kiln not sufficiently heated, must require proportionably a longer time to receive the proper effect of the fire; the want of which will bring it into the same state as malt not thoroughly dried.

If too quick or fierce a fire be employed, instead of gently evaporating the watery parts of the corn, it torrifies the outward skin, divides it from the body of the grain, and so rarifies the inclosed air as to burst the vessels. Such is called blown malt, and, by the internal expansion, occupies a larger space than it ought. If the fire be continued, it causes its constituent parts to harden to the consistence of a varnish, or changes it into a brittle substance, from whence the malt is said to be steely and glassy: it dissolves but in a small proportion, is very troublesome and dangerous in brewing, and frequently occasions a total want of extraction; by the brewery termed, setting the grist.

Malt, just, or but lately, taken from the kiln, remains warm for a considerable time. Until the heap becomes equally cool with the surrounding air, it cannot be said to be mellow, or in a fit state to be brewed: its parts being harsh and brittle, the whole of its substance cannot be resolved, and the proper heat of the water, which should be applied to it for that purpose, is therefore more difficult to be ascertained.

The practice of those maltsters, who sprinkle water on malt newly removed from the kiln, to make it appear as having been made a long space of time, or, as they say, to plump it, is a deceit which cannot too much be exposed. By this practice, the circumstance of the heat, and harshness of the malt, is only externally, and in appearance, removed, and the purchaser grossly imposed on. The grain, by being moistened, occupies a greater volume, and, if not speedily used, soon grows mouldy, heats, and is greatly damaged.

The direct contrary is the case of malt which has been made a long time: the dampness of the air has relaxed it, and so much moisture has insinuated itself into the grain, that some doubt must arise how much hotter the mash should, for this reason, be. Yet, supposing no distemper, such as being mouldy, heated, or damaged by vermin, it is observed, malt, under this circumstance, may more certainly be helped in brewing, than those just abovementioned.

From what has been said, it appears how necessary it is to procure malt which has been properly steeped, germinated to its true pitch, and dried by a gentle, moderate heat, so as the moisture of the corn be duly evaporated, then cured by just so much fire as to enable it to preserve itself a due time, without being blown or burnt. How easy it is to regulate this process in the cistern, in the couch, on the floors, and on the kiln, when the malster, intends no artifice to save his excise, I need not say; but with what certainty and ease the whole might be carried on by the help of the thermometer, I leave such to determine as are modest enough to think, that the art may be brought to more accurate rules than those of the bare report of our unassisted senses. As such rules may easily be deduced from the principles here laid down, I shall not be more particular in shewing their application, as not being my immediate purpose, nor my business as a brewer: nor have I leisure, or the conveniency of a malt house, to make experiments of this sort; yet with truth it may be said, that such as would not be disappointed in their brewing, must take care not to be deceived in their malt. This, however, being but too frequently the case, we should constantly be on our guard against its defects, and know how to correct them. If it is treated in the same manner as if it was perfect, the well-malted parts alone will be digested. If too slack dried, it may be corrected by an addition of heat, if over-dried, or injured by fire, it may proportionably be helped. By applying the thermometer to the extracts, more particularly to the first, the brewer thereby will be informed, to a sufficient degree of exactness, of the defects he can mend, and hardly be ever at a loss for the properest means to work the grain to the greatest advantage.

As far as we have proceeded in our enquiry, though some satisfaction must arise from our being enabled to account for the greater part of the process of brewing, yet it may be observed, even with the assistance of the thermometer, as yet a geometrical exactness, in many respects, has not been attained; but nature, when the interest and necessities of mankind are the object, apparently has supplied our wants, and rectified our defects. In this art, fermentation, when allowed to display itself, corrects all our errors to a considerable latitude, though as yet, of this act, it may be said we scarcely conceive its cause, or properly discern its effects.