The Pyrenees

INDEX

Reading edition

Accous or Bédous, plain of, 159-160

Agra, river, mentioned, 20;

valley of, 147

Aiguestoites, Port de, 181

Albigenses, crusade against, its meaning and results, 49

Alfonso el Batallador, 54

Alpargatas, 122

Alps, contrasted with Pyrenees, 25-26

Andorra, history and character of, 192-193

— forms with Catalan valleys a district of Pyrenees, 187-198

— how reached from Ariège, 187-193

— posada of, 232

Anicle, Col d’, 171-172

Anie, Pic d’, its position on first axis of Pyrenees, 6

— boundary of the Basques, 38, 154

Aphours, brook of, 150

Aragnouet, 181

Aragon, river, mentioned, 20

— valley of, easy connexion of, with valley of Gallego, 158;

described, 161

— kingdom, named after river, 20;

and Béarn, their position on the range, 37

Aran, Val d’, see “Val”

Arazas, valley of, 169-170;

Inn there, 233

Ariège, sources of, 191

— valley of, position of on axis of Pyrenees, 8;

forms old county of Foix, 15;

in connexion with that of the Tet, 204-209

Ariel, Pic d’, 205

Arles, on Tech, 213-214

Arras, Col d’, 215

Arreau, hotels at, 227

Arrouye, Pic d’, 182

Aspe, Val d’, 158

Aston, upper, adventure of author upon, 108-112

— river, advantages of district of, 187-188

Ax, way from, to valley of Tet, 206-208;

hotels and baths of, 230

Bagnères-de-Bigorre, hotels at, 226;

de Luchon, see “Luchon”

Baigorry, valley of, 145-146

Balatag, wood of, on Canigou, 212

Bambilette, port, 152

Bargebit, Pic de, on Canigou, 213

Barrosa, stream of, 174

Barroude, pass of, 181

Basque, place names found throughout Spain and Pyrenees, 38-39

— Valleys, a district of the Pyrenees, 145-154

Basques, their position on the range, 37;

Pic d’Anie, boundary, 38

— no Roman record of, 45-46

Bathing, dangerous when fatigued, 143

Batallador, surname of Alfonso, 54

Bayonne, road from, to Pamplona described, 96-99

Béarn and Aragon, their position on the range, 37

Béarn, Roman name of, 44;

with Navarre and Roussillon, last exceptions to French sovereignty north of Pyrenees, 49

Bédous, Hotel de la Poste at, 160

Bédous, hotel of, 222

— or Accous, plan of, 159-160

Belhay, Port de, 152

Belver, head of Urgel road, 203

Benarnensium Civitas, modern Béarn, 44

Bicycling in Pyrenees, 104-105

Bielsa, Port de, 181

— second stage in way from Panticosa to Venasque, 170;

described, 171;

inn of, 233

Biescas, mentioned as example of a town in a Spanish valley, 19

Bigerriones, original name of inhabitants of Bigorre, 44

Bigorre, originally land of “Bigerriones,” 44;

Pic du Midi de, see “Pic”

Blankets, 122-123

Boella, Col de, 215

Bonaigo, Pass of, nature of, 28, 31, 197

Bota, see “Gourd”

Boucacers, Col de, 211

Boucharo, French name for Bujaruelo, 169

Boussens, amazing cooking at, 230

Bread, proper rations of, 125-126

Brèche de Roland, 173

Bujaruelo (Boucharo) in Sobrarbe, 169

Burguete, hotel at, 221

Cabanes, use of, as shelter, 123

— village and station of, starting-point for passes of Peyregrils and Fontargente, 188

Cabillere, Pic de, 188

Cacouette, gorge of, alluded to, 16, 152

Cadi, Sierra del, mentioned, 20;

aspect from St. Croz, 196;

aspect of, from Cerdagne, 200

Cady, brook of, 213

Cambret, brook of, 214

Camphor, sovereign against bugs, 223

Camping, rules for, 128-133

Canal Roya, example of difficulty of finding a col, 110-113

— valley of, and col, 158

— entrance to, 161-162

Canfranc, 161;

poor hotel of, 223

Canigou, hotel near summit of, 231;

district of, 210-216;

peaks of, ways up to, 211-215

Canillo, village of, 191

Carlitte, group of mountains, 204

Casteil, hamlet on way up Canigou, 212

Castellbo, first stage in way from Urgel to Esterri, 194;

delicious inn of, 229

Catalans, their position on the range, 36

Catalonia, origins of, 54

Cauterets, hotels of, 226

Cerberus, Cape, eastern limit of second axis of Pyrenees, 4

Cerdagne, political anomaly of, 57-58;

described, 199-203;

why annexed by Mazarin, 201

Chaitza, stream of, 151

Christians, reconquest of Spanish slope by, 50-54

Cinca, valley of, with Broto and Esera make up Sobrarbe, 167

Cinqueta, affluent of the Cinca, 167

Cirere, Col de, 213

Climate of Pyrenees, 33-35

Coidenes, bridge of, 188

Col, or pass, see under particular names

Comminges, modern name of district of Convenæ, 43-45

Compass, variation of, in Pyrenees, 60;

necessary in equipment, 127-128

Consevanni, modern Conserans, 44-45

Conserans, Roman “Consevanni,” 44-45

Convenæ, 43-44

Coumette, Pic de la, 188

Cruz, Col de la, 174

Cuberre, bridge of, 176

Dalmanya, torrent of, 213;

village of, 213

Dastan, Val, 185

Distance, best reckoned in mountains by time, 76-78

“Double Col,” most dangerous example of ambiguity in a pass, 137-140

Driving in Pyrenees, 105

Eaux Bonnes, chief hotel of, 225

— Chaudes, 164

— hotel of, 225

Elizondo, 147-148

— hotels of, 220

Elloronensium Civitas, modern Oloron, 44

Elne, 42

El Plan, posada of, 233

Embalire, pass of, 31;

easiest entry into Andorra, 191-193

Encamps, village of, 191;

inn of, 231

Equipment, description of necessary, 115-124

Erro, 148

— inn at, 221

Escaló, village of, 196

Escolier, Pic d’, 150

Escuain, Col de, 171

Espousouille, hamlet of, 208

Esterri, hotel of, 229

— mentioned as example of a town in a Spanish valley, 18;

described, 197;

way to, from Urge, 194-198

Europe, grouping of peoples unchanged in, during recorded history, 1-2

Fillols, on way up Canigou from Villefranche, 212

Foix, county of, identical with valley of Ariège, 15

Fontargente, tarn of, 191

— pass of, into Andorra, 190-191

Forata, Peña, 165

Formiguères, village of, on way from Ax to Tet valley, 206

French measurements, English equivalents, 74-77

— slope of Pyrenees, formation of, 10-12;

names and character of valleys on, 10-15;

multiplicity of roads on, 79-82

Frontier, political, its present connexion with watershed, 54-58

Gabas, 164

— excellent hotel of, 224

Gabediou, Pic de, 182

Galbe, stream of, 208

Gallego, valley of, position of, on axis of Pyrenees, 7

— valley of, 166

— valley of, easy connexion of, with valley of Aragon, 158

Gari, valley of, 185

Garonne, curious source of, 186

Gas, Pic du Col de, 189

Gascon, name of, supposed to be Basque, 39

Gaulis, Col de, 170

Gavarnie, example of a high-valley village, 21;

town of, 226

— Port de, 31

— Cirque de, 181

Gerbats, Pic de, 182

Gistain, Col de, 175-176

Glacé, lake, 186

Glaciers, absence of, 33

Gnoles, torrent of, 206

Gourd, or bota, description of, 117-120

Hayra, forest of, 146

Heas, stream and village of, 181-182

Heights and distances, French, way of turning into English feet and miles, 74-77

Helena, original name of Elne, 42

Henry IV and Mazarin complete French sovereignty north of Pyrenees, 49

Hix, 202

Hospitalet, of Ariège, 191;

of Luchon, 184

Huesca, Sancho’s attempt on, 53;

road to, 99, 103

Illiberis, old name for Elne, 42

Inns, of the Pyrenees, 217-233;

Spanish and French, contrasted, 218-233

Iraty, Spanish valley, head-waters in France, 56

Isaba, 153

Ispeguy, pass of, between Baigorry and Baztan, 146

Jaca, mentioned as example of town in Spanish valley, 18;

one of three mountain bishoprics on Spanish slope, 46;

counted as French during Mahommedan occupation, 48;

early independence of, 53;

excellent hotel of, 223

“Jasses,” nature of these flats, 15-16

“Jeous,” local name, 26

Kilometre, estimate of, by time, 141-142

Knapsack, see “Pack”

Labourd, valley of, 145

Lakes, character of, in Pyrenees, 32;

of Maladetta, Encantados, etc., 32

Lakes of the Carlitte, 204

Lamoux, lake of, 205

Larrasoaña, 148

Larrau, 151

Laruns, 164;

hotel of, 225

La Tour Carol, 202;

inn of, 231

Laurhibar, village of, 149;

stream and village of, 149-150

Lecumberry, 149

Le Tech, hamlet of, 214

L’Homme, Pic de, western limit of second axis of Pyrenees, 4

Licq, 151

Llavorsi, village of, 196

Llivia, 200-201

Lourdes, hotels of, 225

Luchon, valley of, with valleys of Tarbes, makes separate district in Pyrenees, 179-186

— hot springs of, 183

— way to Venasque from, by Port d’Oo, 185-186

— valley and district of, 182-186;

road to, from Val d’Aran, 197-198;

wealth and hotels of, 228-229

Lys, valley of, 185

Magdalena, river of, 195

Maggi, provision of, 125;

method of using, 127

Maladetta, view of, from Port de Venasque, 185

Maps, for the range, 59-78

Marignac, forest of, 184

Mauléon, capital of the Soule, 149

Mazarin annexes Roussillon to France, 49

— annexes Cerdagne, 56-58

Mediterranean, civilization of, in connexion with Pyrenees, 42-43

Merens, example of a high-valley village, 17-18

Metres and kilometres, way of reducing to feet and miles, 74-76

Midi, Pic du, d’Ossau, 160;

de Bigorre, 180

Moines, Col des, 157-161

Mollo, see “Prats”

Monsech, Sierra of, distance of, from main range, 9, 20

Mont Louis, pass of, mentioned, 30;

hotel of, 231

Motoring in Pyrenees, by the “lower road,” 84-87;

by the “upper road,” 86-93;

across the range, 93-99;

from Pamplona to Jaca, 99;

to Saragossa, 99

Mountain, ranges of, often regarded too simply, 2-3

Mules, not always obtainable in inns, 219

Names, fantastic, of Pyrenees mountains, 24

Napoleon III, makes Somport road from Urdos, 161

Navarre with Béarn and Roussillon, the last exceptions to French sovereignty north of Pyrenees, 49

Navas de Tolosa, battle of, 54

Nive, French river, rises in Spain, 56

Noguera Pallaresa, 196

Noguille, lake of, 204

Novempopulania, Roman district north of Pyrenees, 41-45

Olette, town of, 208

Oloron, Roman name of, 44;

main road from, to Saragossa, described, 93-96;

hotels at, 222

Oo, Port d’, 222

Ordino, town of, 190

Orgeix, 205

Oriège, valley of, 205

Orleu, 205

Oroel, Peña d’, 161

Ossau, Val d’, 164;

Pic du Midi de, see “Pic”

Otxogorrigagne, Mount, 152

Ourdayte, or “Urdayte,” Port d’, 31, 152

Ourdissettou, Pic d’, 181

Pack, type of, in equipment, 121-122

Pallars, name of Esterri valley, 196

Pamplona, Roman bishopric on Spanish slope, 46;

road to, from Bayonne described, 96-99;

hotels of, 221

Pannikin, description of, 115-116

Panticosa, way to Venasque from, through Sobrarbe, 167-178;

numerous hotels of, 224

Passes over Pyrenees, nature of, 27-32

Path, importance of faint indications, so called, in Pyrenees, 113-115

Pau, Gave de, valley of, position of, on axis of Pyrenees, 6

Pelayo, heads the Reconquista, 51

Peña, Sierra de la, mentioned, 19

Perpignan, hotel and restaurant of, 231

Peyregrils, pass of, into Andorra, 188-190

Pic du Midi d’Ossau, 160;

approach from Gabas, 164

— de Bigorre, 180

Pinède, cliffs of, 172

Pique, river of, in Luchon valley, 184

Pla de Guillem, pass of, in Canigou, 214

Place names, Basque, in Spain and Pyrenees, 38-39

Plan, El, village of, 177-178

“Plans,” larger form of Jasses, 15-16

Port Vendres, 42

Portaillet, Col of, on shoulder of Canigou, 214

Porte Blanche, pass of, into Andorra, 215

Porté, 204;

inn of, 231

Porteille, notch between county of Foix and Roussillon, 208

“Ports,” or passes, over Pyrenees, nature of, 26-30

Posets, Pic de, 174

Pourtalet, pass of, mentioned, 30;

modern road over, 163-164

Prades, town of, way up Canigou from, 212

Prats de Mollo, 214

Puigcerdá, 202

Puigdarbet, peak of, on Canigou, 213

Puillouse, marsh of, 205

Puymorens, Col de, limit of the Catalans, 37

— pass of, 204

Py, on Canigou, 214

Pyrenees, physical nature of, 1-35;

double axis of, 3-8;

length of chain, 4;

original formation of, 8;

contrast of northern and southern slope of, 9;

climate of, 33-35;

political character of, 36, etc.;

form the bastion against Islam, 47

— Treaty of, 49

Quazémi peak of, on Canigou, 212

Railways, start far from main range on Spanish side, 21

Rain, distribution of, in Pyrenees, 33-35

Ranges, mountain, see “Mountain”;

secondary, perpendicular to main range on northern, parallel to it on southern slope, 9, 19

Reconquista, 50-54

Rialb, stream of, 189

Rivers, shape of their course on Spanish slope, 20

Roman advance on Spanish slope, 45-47

Romans, make watershed of Pyrenees a boundary, 40-41;

their advance north of Pyrenees, 41-45

Roncesvalles, pass of, mentioned, 30;

high road through, 97;

road to, from Pamplona, 148

Roque Couloum, mountain, 211

Roscino, gives name to Roussillon, 42

Rou, tarn of, 204

Roussillon, formed round valley of Tet, 15;

with Navarre and Béarn, last exception to French sovereignty north of Pyrenees, 49

Sabouredo, Pic de, eastern limits of first axis of Pyrenees, 4

Sahun, Col de, 178

Saillagousse, 202;

a place to avoid, 231

St. Bertrand de Comminges, origin of, 45

St. Croz, village of, 194

St. Duillem, huts of, 214

Ste. Engrace, 151-153

— Port de, position of, on axis of Pyrenees, 6;

passage of, 152-153

— inn at, 222

St. Etienne, in Baigorry, 146-147

St. Girons, hotel of, 230

St. Jean le Vieux, site of Roman town, 148

St. Jean Pied de Port, 148;

road from, to Soule, 148-151;

hotels at, 221

St. Jerome, his story of Convenæ, 45

St. John, Port of, 195-196

St. Lizier, originally Glycerius, 44

Salau, pass of, distance of, from plains, 9, 20, 197

— Port of, mentioned, 30

Saldeu, pass and hamlet of, 191

Salinas de Sin, 177

Sallent, way to, from, Urdos, 161-163

Sallent, character of inn of, 224

— Port Vieux de, 163

Salpichon, value of, 125

Sancho, killed before Huesca, 53

Sandales, see “Alpargatas”

Sarabillo, 177

Saragossa, the main road over Pyrenees to, 99, 103

Sauvegarde, Pic de, 185

Schrader, his map of central Pyrenees, 61, 73-74

Secondary ranges, perpendicular to main range on northern side, parallel to it on the southern, 10, 19

Sentina, torrent of, 177

Serrat, village of, 190

Snow, perennial, absence of in Pyrenees, 25

Sobrarbe, name of Eastern Aragon, 20, 23;

district in Pyrenees, 167-178

Socks, folly of wearing, 116

Somport, pass so called, position of, on axis of Pyrenees, 6;

nature of, 28, 30;

main road over, from Oloron to Saragossa, described, 92-95

Soulauet, tarn of, 189

Soule, district in Basque valleys, 148-154

— road from St. Jean de Port to, 148-151

Souscousse, woods of, 154

Sousquéou, valley of, 164-165

Spanish government, contrast of, with French, in Cerdagne, 201

Spanish slope of Pyrenees, formation of, 10;

type of valleys in, 18-24;

Roman conquest of, 45-47;

reconquest of, by Christians, 50-54;

absence of roads on, 84;

unmapped, 66;

partially given in French maps, 67

Spates, rare in Pyrenean streams, 32

Spirits of wine, necessity of, 126-127

Streams, Pyrenean, spates rare in, 32

Tarbelli, Roman name for people of Dax, 44

Tarbes, originally Turba, 44;

valleys of, and Luchon, district in Pyrenees, 179-186;

hotel at, 182

Tardets, central town of the Soule, 150-151;

admirable hotel at, 221-222

Taurinya, on way up Canigou from Prades, 212

Tech, valley of, 211

Tent, folly of carrying one, 124

Tet, valley of, forms core of Roussillon, 15

— valley of, with that of Ariège, makes a district in Pyrenees, 204-209

Thirteen Winds, peak of, on Canigou, 214

Tigra, forest of, 153

Time, distance in mountains best reckoned by, 77-78

Torla, with Bielsa and Venasque, chief centres of Sobrarbe, 167;

first stage in way from Panticosa to Venasque, 169;

curious inn at, 233

Toro, Trou de, 186

Torte, tarn of, 204

Towns, nature of Pyrenean, 17

Trainzaygues, 180

Treaty of Pyrenees, 49

Troumouse, Cirque, 181-182

Turba, old name of Tarbes, 44

Turmo, Cabane of, 176

Urdayte, or “Ourdayte,” port of, see “Ourdayte”

Urdos, example of a high-valley village, 17;

travel through, 160

Urgel (Seo de), Roman bishopric on Spanish slope, 46;

bishopric of, counted as French during Mahommedan occupation, 48;

appearance of, 193-194;

way from, to Esterri and Val d’Aran, 194-198;

hotel at, 232

Urtioga, Mount, western limit of Pyrenees, 4;

in Basque valleys, 145

Val d’Aran, political anomaly of, 56-57;

way to, from Urgel through Esterri, 194-198

Val Carlos, 148;

accommodation at, 221

Vallcivera, Port de, 215

Valleys, nature of, on French slope, 15-18;

eight, on western French slope, 12-15;

two (Ariège and Tet) on eastern French slope, 14-15;

on Spanish slope, nature of, 18-24

— the Four, district of Pyrenees, 155-166;

strategical importance of, 155-156

Valley, “wrong,” see “Wrong valley”

Venasque, mentioned as example of a town in a Spanish valley, 18;

way to, from Panticosa, through Sobrarbe, 168-178;

alternative southern way to, from Bielsa, 177-178;

way to, from Luchon by Port d’Oo, 185-186;

posada of, 232

— Port de, mentioned, 31, 184-185

Vernet, on way up Canigou, 212

Viella, in Val d’Aran, 197;

road from, to Luchon, 198;

hotels of, 229

Vielle, hotel at, 227

Villefranche, town of, rail-head in Tet valley, 209

Vultures, Peak of the, 153

Watershed, forms political boundary during periods of high civilization, 40-41

Weather, peculiar difficulty of main ridge in doubtful, 31

Wine, Spanish, taste of, 219

Wood, rarely found near lake in Pyrenees, 32;

effect of, on streams, 33

“Wrong valley,” types of danger of getting into, 133-140

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