Chapter XVII · (continued 6)

"The main stations, Damanhúr, Kafr Zayyát, and Tantah, all made themselves infamous in the late Rebellion. The 'mild Fellah' and his milder wife tied the limbs of murdered Franks to dogs' tails, poured petroleum upon the poor brutes, and set them on fire. These horrors have sunk a great gulf between native and stranger which will not be bridged over during this generation. One regrets not to see a detachment of Redcoats, or at least a body of British policemen, holding fortified barracks in these three old centres of furious bigotry. The jails of Tantah were long crammed, but the contents were paupers, not rich culprits.

"The villages improve as we approach the capital, and square houses take the place of round African clay huts. The land is the same everywhere—a virgin-mother younger only than the hills. Black ants, brown ants, and white ants crawl over her ample bosom, come and go, are born to work and fight and die, but the Nile flows and floods for ever.

"Cairo promises ruins, but shows none beyond the railway-station. Nizr el-Kahíreh, the city of (planet) Mars, is still rejoicing over her narrow escape: she was saved one day before death by the gallant march of the British cavalry: the mean foreigners jealously suggest the 'horseman of St. George,' which is the golden sovereign. She is gay as Alexandria. The Shubra road that showed in 1879-80 some half-dozen shandridans is now a line of Arab riders and neat equipages, of uniforms, un-uniforms, and of Parisian toilettes. Dinner-parties are the rule; balls are in prospect; Giroflé Giroflá is rehearsing at the Opera-house, and even that abomination the grind-organ has found its way into the city of the Mamelukes.

"Yet good old 'Shepherd's' is half-empty, and the New Hotel quasi-desert. Despite bogus lists and vamped-up reports this year will be, touristically speaking, a failure. And tourists are right. The tone of the population is disagreeable; the situation is unpleasant if not dangerous. Next season will be a success, on two conditions—the absence of cholera, and the non-withdrawal of the occupying army. But Cairo has suffered greatly in the loss of Lord Dufferin. It takes away one's breath (so rare is the sight) to see the right man in the right place; to miss the square peg in the round hole; to meet, for instance, General Feilding (a Hapsburg) at the Austro-Hungarian manœuvres, and to find Earl Dufferin sent to Egypt. The diplomat is a host in himself. His personal experience of 'the East' began nearly a quarter-century ago, when he organized the Libanus. He is a hard and conscientious worker; he has a priest's will with the 'courage of his opinions,' and he owns the gift of common sense which does not always characterize his profession. With one reservation (to err is human) we may hold primâ facie that what Lord Dufferin determines is right will be rightly done. If he fail it will be from being ordered to attempt the impossible, to make an England of Egypt. Meanwhile we ardently wish he would abate the plague of locust-strangers that flock to batten upon the land. They are reviving all the conditions which led to the late troubles; and they will lead to a repetition of the drama with only the part of Arábi left out.

"One of Cairo's marvellous escapes is the unique Bulak Museum. It was offered for sale to a commercial house, they say; but here we must now believe little of what we see and less of what we hear. The old station-house is rebuilt, and may now be pronounced safe. MM. Maspero and Brugsch Bey are doing their best, but slowly: they want more assistance, which means money; and their revised catalogue will not be ready for this season. Their recovery of the old Pharaohs reads a lesson not only to the antiquary but to the political. How little the Egyptian has changed from what he was under the Double Crown may be seen in Brugsch Bey's report. The Fellah women ran bare-headed and dishevelled along the Nile-banks, keening the death-cry, as it were, for their husbands or brothers, when they heard that the mummies of their olden kings were being boated down stream by the French. The corpses were pickled some three thousand years ago, but what is that in the land of Kemi?

"Sunday, November 12th, corresponded with the first Muharram A.H. 1300. No Moslem, however, could or would tell me whether A.H. 1299 was, or 1300 is to be, the Annus Mirabilis of Mohammedanism; even the comet had complicated the question by living too long. The popular expectation was a general uprising of the Moslem world, which, however, shows no sign; a kind of 'Battle of Armageddon;' the universal conquest of El-Islam and a general preparation for the end of time (Akhir el-Zamán), which is to follow in the fourteenth century. The superstitious noted a terrible omen. The Mahmal-litter, in which Rogers Bey finds a survival of the Covenant-ark (why not go back to Osiris?), was torn off its dromedary by a telegraph wire opposite the British camp, Suez, and (horrible to relate!) was mended by a Káfir, Mr. Campbell, engineer to the Compagnie Khédiviale.

"We wished the compliments of the season, Kull ám antum bi'l-Khayr! (may every year find you fair!), to all our Egyptian friends who were not in durance or under surveillance. Every second man seemed to be in trouble, and with rare exceptions none from Caliph to churl would have come out with clean hands. Even the little black and whity-brown Beys, who haunted English dames and demoiselles at Shepherd's, found it advisable to make themselves 'scarce.' A very few words will resume the long story. Political imbecility, financial mismanagement, and the greed of bourgeois-shareholders raised up a powerful party against Europeans, and it found a fitting leader in Arábi, the Fellah-pasha. The Porte, hoping once more to conduct into shrunken and impoverished Constantinople a Nile flowing lire and piastres, resolved that the Khedivial family should, in Napoleonic phrase, 'cease to reign.' Grand old Mohammed Ali was to be succeeded by a mere Pasha, or general, removable at will and retainable only whilst douceurs, avances, and tributes were regular. Hence the scandalous gift of the Medjidiah decoration to a palpable rebel. But the Fellah is né malin. He countered the Turkish project by transferring his allegiance from a 'Caliph' (successor), whose claims rest upon no legal base, to the Sheríf (Prince) of Meccah, the lineal descendant of the Apostle of Allah, whose right to succeed, if he choose to assert it, is indefeasible. How England was left to hack at, and lastly to cut, the Gordian knot need hardly be told.

"Finishing my work at the capital, I 'hardened my heart' to face the dangers of the Cairo-Suez railway. It is reported that the old direct line viâ the Desert, where Burckhardt saw ostriches in 1816, will be relaid, and that a section of twenty-one miles is almost ready. Despite the expense and the waste of coin in carrying water, at the rate of three waggons to one full of passengers, our occupation will require this move. Nor must we forget the artesian wells, of which the old Olympiodorus thus speaks when describing the Lybian waste: 'In this oasis the people used to scoop out excavations one hundred to two hundred and fifty feet deep, when jets of pure water rose in tall columns.'

"At the still Burnt Station we found a trainful of half-uniformed peasants, bearing bag and baggage, including Remingtons. They will be mustered to the tune of ten thousand at Suez, and sent to the Sudan or Upper Nile Provinces with the view of putting down the long-standing insurrection. They look already beaten, and I do not envy the man who is to command. The Arch-enemy is the Mahdí, the 'False Prophet' of the European Press, a title which describes exactly enough what he is not. D'Herbelot has told the world that the twelfth Imam, or Antistes, the lineal blood-descendant of the Apostle of Allah and the legal religious head of El-Islam, was born in A.H. 255 (= A.D. 868), was named Abu 'l Kásim Mohammed, and assumed the style of El-Mahdí, or the Director, i.e. in the path of the True Faith. He mysteriously disappeared (probably murdered) under the rule of the Abbaside, El Mohtade, the fourteenth of the Baghdad House. Hence his title El-Mutabattan—the Concealed; but of the many Redivivi noticed in history, he declared that he would return before the Last Day and lead a reformed Islamism to universal dominion in preparation for certain other Second Comings. Consequently every great political heave of Mohammedanism, in Africa as in Asia, has thrown up and still throws up one or more Mahdís. Of the latest 'Director' I could learn little, save that he is an inspired Carpenter: Cairo ignored even his real name. 'Mohammed Ahmed' of Dongola means nothing. Great men, religious or laical, always on promotion prefix to their own names 'Mohammed' or some variant. Thus Tewfík is Mohammed Tewfík, and Arábi is Ahmed Arábi. This Mahdí will, probably, like most of his predecessors, meet his death at the hands of his fanatical and infuriated mob of followers. Meanwhile, despite recurring reports of his being beaten, he is still formidable, and he will give trouble during the coming winter. The one only remedy will be an English expedition—costly, but not so costly as doing nothing.

"We detrained at Zagázíg after two hours and a half of dusting, which seemed to begin the process of burying alive. The modern town is the successor of Bubastis, Pi-Pasht, city of Pasht, Isis with the tabby-cat's head. Its position—a central point where roads, railways, and canals meet—has made it a Cottonopolis, and its factories, with tall stacks and huge warehouses, have entitled it the 'Manchester of Egypt.' It is the military key of the Delta; Napoleon Buonaparte, at the beginning of the century, drew his base from Bilbays to Sálihíyah, and the Arabists intended to do the same.

"I passed a day in the house of my friend M. Vetter, for the purpose of consulting with Mr. Charles Clarke, Chef des Télégraphes. He had been the managing man during my two expeditions to the Gold Lands of Midian; and his topographical and linguistic knowledge had enabled him to render the army valuable service during the late campaign. His house was carefully looted by English soldiers, who may have thought it belonged to some employé of M. de Lesseps, and by Indian sepoys, who tore up his wife's dresses to adorn their turbans, and his comfortable rooms were still bare and desolate. He had been invited to join the Palmer Expedition, but although on friendly terms with the powerful Bedawin chief, Sulayman Pasha El-Abázeh, he had declined. The game was not worth the candle. On my next visit I hope to find Mr. Clarke travelling Director of Telegraphs, a post which will suit him and which he will suit down to the ground. As yet he has received only the barren honour of a C.M.G., and H.H. the Khedive has shirked conferring any distinction to show that Mr. Clarke acted in his interest.

"The Zagázítes showed a peculiar, independent, free-and-easy bearing, and the resident Europeans, who lately begged two English officers in uniform to walk through the town, do not hold themselves safe without the protection of a detachment, British soldiers or policemen. For many reasons this should be granted to them. The adjoining villagers absolutely refuse to believe that Arábi has been fairly beaten: his defeat and capture are known in Southern Syria, but not within cannon-shot of Tel el-Kebir. Here, too, the Fellahs are ready to rise again at any given moment. They differ in blood from the inhabitants of the Nile Valley proper, but they are no improvement upon their neighbours.

"Prodigious is the iteration of books concerning the 'poor down-trodden Fellah,' serving sentimentality to contrast him with his Pharaohs, the Pashas and Beys who oppress him and his. This philanthropic and most ignorant twaddle began (not honestly) with the French invasion, endured through the age of Lane and Gardner Wilkinson, and is repeated in the old stock phrases by the latest writers, Baron de Mahortié and Dicey. Foreigners mostly know the city folk; their 'manners and customs of the modern Egyptians' should be called the 'manners and customs of Cairo.' Ask Mr. Charles Clarke of Zagázíg, or Mr. Curzon Tompson of Cairo, men who, never holding high official positions, could study the Fellah in his own home. They will confirm my statement that there is nowhere a more dogged and determined, turbulent and refractory, furious and fanatical, cruel and bloodthirsty race than these clowns of the 'Black Land.' Compared with them the 'finest pisantry' are a weak and violent race; nor do they produce, like the Felláhin, typical and remarkable men. This generation has seen the Mufattish, a son of the soil, who could hold his own against the ablest financiers of Europe, and who had amassed millions of money, when one fine night he was tumbled into the Nile. It has produced Arábi the Reb., who, despite his notorious want of physical pluck, has graved his name upon the memorial tablets of his native valley. Aided by the weakness of his opponents, he placed the captor between the horns of an exceptional dilemma. If put to death he would have become a Shahíd or martyr. If allowed to live, even in exile, it was because the Káfir feared to slay him, and because it will soon be found advisable to recall him.

"A few words concerning the early career of this modern Prætorian may be acceptable; his later career is known to all. Arábi, not Ourabi, and mispronounced Arăby, probably an echo of 'Araby the blest,' is neither a Frenchman, nor a Spaniard, nor an Irishman, nor a green-turban'd Sayyid. His father, an honest Fellah, ploughed the old paternal fields about Kafr el-Taur ('Bull village'), between Tantah and Birkat el-Saba', stations on the Alexandria-Cairo railway. His mother, who has been interviewed by more than one Englishwoman, and who is now living at El-Hurríyyah ('Liberty'), her son's proprietary village near Zagázíg, sent her three boys as volunteers to serve and die for Said Pasha. This remarkable step, for the Egyptian parent invariably did and does the reverse, attracted the ruler's attention to the lads. He placed them in the military college, and he was heard to say, according to his widow, an honest Anglophobe, that he expected great things from Arábi.

"But Arábi preferred studying theology, which means bigotry, at El-Azhar, the University-mosque of Cairo, where professors are numbered by hundreds, and pupils by thousands. He had risen to be Kaimmakám (Major), when his patron died. Ismail Khedive would have nothing to do with him: 'the man,' he said, 'has the eye of a Hayyeh' (snake). So he was kept on outpost duty till circumstances brought him to the fore, especially on February 1st, 1881, when his Azhar training proved peculiarly valuable. In 1882 he became the pivot of the situation. His right was that of being, after a fashion, the representative man; his claim was having posed before Egypt, England, and Europe as the Leader of the National Party.

"Returning to the Fellah, I would note that this race stands aloof from and above all its neighbours. As hair, features, and figure prove, the Nilote is of African not of Asiatic provenance, partly white-washed by foreign innervation. Mr. Lane dubbed him an 'Arab,' and derived him from the invading soldiery of Amru and other early Moslem conquerors, a handful whose nationality would be at once absorbed, would disappear in the next generation. You have only to place the Bedawi by the side of the Fellah, and the fallacy of the theory becomes palpable. The Fellah's half-brother is the Copt, who has kept his blood freer from 'miscegenation.' Both are perforce peculiar peoples. The climate of the Nile Valley allows no foreign-born to be viable; in its media neither Greek nor Roman, Persian, Turk, nor Circassian, German, Italian, Frenchman, nor Englishman, can permanently increase and multiply. It has thus an atmosphere of perfect conservatism. From the days of the monuments and of Herodotus, the Fellah has altered little but his faith: he preserves all the good and every bad and bitter quality of his forbears.

"The Home Press, when commenting upon the bloodshed and arson of June 11th, asked with wonder, how these 'lambs had suddenly turned wolves?' Lambs, indeed! why, no fighting ram is more obstinate and pugnacious, or less open to pity and mercy, than an Egyptian Fellah. And if the men are brutal and barbarous, the women are, if possible, worse; as mostly happens in hot damp climates, their morals are abominable, and, as Mr. Lane and the 'Arabian Nights' show, their modes of murdering are unutterably horrible. The account of these bestial beings, promenading the streets of Alexandria with the legs and arms of slaughtered Europeans, borne like flags on long staves, should open eyes that can be opened.

"The morbid philanthropy and the mawkish humanitarianism of modern days have created a theoretical, an ideal, Fellah; the factual man would start to see his own portrait. They must deserve compassion who have anything to do with him. There is hardly a European in Egypt who has frequented the villages as a sportsman or antiquary without being assaulted by the villagers, while several of my friends have been nearly killed. The peasants also act as their own police and 'ministers of high justice,' trying and punishing all criminal cases within their mud walls. If man or woman break the law, especially that of Rasm, or immemorial custom, the offence is kept from the guardians of society—policemen and magistrates, the worst robbers in the land. If certain 'commandments' be violated, he, she, or it, is carefully tied and trussed up, gagged, and thrown into the Great River. Father Nilus could tell more tales of murder than all the streams in the United Kingdom.

"Among the Fellah's good qualities we must not neglect his persistence and his bravery. A drive to the Pyramids will show you troops of half-naked urchins running a mile in the forlorn hope of a copper; and in this point the boy is the father of the man. The adult will be bastinado'd within an inch of his life before he pays his lawful rent, and his wife praises him as she dresses his wounds. Under Sesostris, who invented the phalanx, the Fellah-soldier overran the nearer East. Under Mohammed Ali and Ibrahim Pashas he beat the Arabs at Bissel and the Turks at Nezíb. Even a Moltke could not then save the Ottoman, and the late General Jochmus told me that he escaped defeat, when commanding the Tartar cavalry, only by systematically declining battle with Ibrahim Pasha and his Nilotic armies.

"The dogged pluck of the gunners at the Alexandrian forts and at Tel el-Kebir proves, that the stock has not degenerated; the easy final defeat is readily explained. There was treachery in the air, and the best and bravest men will not stand firm when they suspect that their right-hand, or left-hand neighbours, have been paid to leave them in the lurch. Had the rebels been disciplined, and led by English or French Officers, there would have been a very different tale. As a rule the sight of blood does not excite or terrify the Egyptian; it only makes him an 'uglier customer.'

"Such is the Fellah, the peculiar growth of long centuries. There are races, says M. Gambetta bluntly and truly, which want the rule of the rod. 'The green wand,' declares the Arab proverb, 'is from the trees of Paradise.' The abolition of the Kurbáj, or cowhide, had something to do with the late movement. The hill-peasant must either be beaten or beat; be tyrannized over or tyrannize: in the latter case, like the beggar on horseback, he beats to the death. Here it is no mercy to spare the stick; all forbearance is attributed to the ignoblest motive, craven fear; and the fancy that he is 'funked' makes even the coward brave. It is bad to bastinado, but it is better than to hang and shoot.

"From Zagázíg to Suez is one of the most rickety and dangerous bits of railway travelled over by Europeans. I have seen a single train catch fire twice in one day. You are pretty sure to be told of one which, a few hours ago, 'derailed' and made the hapless passengers pass a cold and hungry night in the waste. The only interest of the dangerous line is the casualty of running through the theatre of our latest campaign. War which, they say, teaches the British Public its geography, also brings into prominence and ennobles names known only to a local peasantry. Such are Kassásín, a lock-bridge over the Sweetwater Canal; Tel el-Mahútah, a mean ground-swell, where the Campaign and Mr. Neville have brought to life certain marvellous Pharaohnic remains; Mahsamah, an outpost station on the edge of Wady Tumilát, southern limit of the Land of Goshen; and Tel el-Kebír, which minor poets are invited to pronounce Keb-eer, not Kee-ber. The latter in 1878 was a mean village, distinguished only by tumble-down cavalry barracks of the Khedivial age, the Age of Modern Ruins. The name 'great mound' (Tel) alludes to a rubbish-heap which was removed for building-ground. There is a brother-hamlet, Tel el-Sagher (Little-mound) hard by, and it has suffered sorely in the maps.

"Amongst other on dits the papers report that Sir Garnet Wolseley, before leaving London and Richmond, not only determined mid-September as the term of the campaign, but also, placing his finger upon Tel el-Kebír, predicted that the decisive action would be fought there. Is this possible? The rebels intended their field-works to be a simple outpost, a first line of trenches dug in the desert; the main defence was to be near Zagázíg, where the hoe'd and irrigated ground, cut by a network of small canals, would have been ugly to cross, as that about Kafr Dawár. But with an inconsequence, which denoted all their actions, Arábi and his Arábists wholly neglected to lay out a second line. Thus the battle was fought at the outer and provisional trenches, on open ground, with gentle rises and falls, where half-disciplined and unofficered men had no chance against regular troops, and the admirable arrangements of their General.

"Messrs. Cook, who took charge of the Commander-in-Chief and the head-quarter staff on their homeward journey—right sensibly they ignored those twin pests, the Courier and the Dragoman—and who will personally conduct the future Princes of the West to the 'Morning-Land,' soon advertised a 'trip to Tel el-Kebír,' where a large Dahabíyeh-barge, moored in the Sweetwater Canal, acted hotel. Here sundry sight-seers 'detrain,' each provided with Major Ardagh's 'lithographic sketch showing the attack.' They may find donkeys, but they prefer a four miles' trudge, over sand and gravel, in the November sun, hotter than an August semi-sun in England, to the British right, where the Highlanders attacked. The battle-field was long unpleasant; the dead might have been buried deeper; and the Bedawi took to 'resurrecting' the Egyptians for loot. Spoils presently disappeared and mementoes became rare, chiefly confined to water-bottles and old hats, bundles of cartridges, and fragments of weapons and missiles.

"A shaky stretch of twenty-six miles places us at ill-fated Ismailíyeh. When I first saw the pretty station in 1869, it boasted a delicious climate, combining the perfume of flowers and trees with the ozone and the 'champagne air' of the Desert. In 1878 the Ismailíyeh Canal, carrying Nile-water which sank into the loose gravelly ground, had bred dangerous malaria-fevers; and now the place is pestilential, hardly inhabitable. Worse still, no one knows what manner of sanitation it requires.

"Here the 'great engineer,' as our scribes will style M. F. de Lesseps, a retired Consul, innocent of all engineering but the amateur's, did us, unconsciously and right unwillingly, the best of good turns. His open patronizing of the arch-rebel, his phrasing, his posing, and his promises of immunity from attack, kept the Canal open, although all arrangements had been made for closing it. This is not to be done by shovelling in earth and sand, which can be shovelled out almost as fast. The best way is to lash together two or three ships or dredgers and simply to scuttle them: the obstruction would require blowing up, and even dynamite wastes valuable time. During future troubles merchant-craft should be convoyed with all precaution up and down the line, each convoy headed and followed by a gunboat. But the real want is a second waterway running parallel with the present. The cost need hardly exceed one-third of the first; and the lessons of the past will make the work easy as well as economical. This subject would require an article for itself: it has already appeared before the public, rather unpleasantly, and it will appear again. The pompous claim to monopoly of the Isthmus, the preposterous demands for millions, and the general tone of the Gallic chanticleers, followed by a loud gobbling from the bubbly-jock of Stamboul, rather amused than offended England. But it is no laughing matter, and some measure is the more necessary as the days of the Euphrates Valley Railway are either done or have not yet dawned. With the Russian at Kars, ready to march ten thousand men down south, we should be building a road for the especial benefit of the invader. Ten years ago it would have served to check the enemy; now it can only facilitate his attack. Not that we have any cause for alarm in the final result, whatever the Russophobe may think or say. Chinese armies, led by English officers, will occupy Moscow before the Muscovite reaches Calcutta.

"From Ismailíyeh we enter the wilderness; we are already in Arabia Deserta. The features are familiar, but they are ever fresh and they never pall. On our left, beyond the bush-green, rushy line of the rigolle, lies the chain of indigo-coloured lakelets, Timsah and the 'Waters of Marah;' and ships upraised by refraction course over the dry land. To our right rise the cliffy prolongations of Cairo's Jebel Mukattam, fading away into the distance-dwarfened mounds of Jebel Atákah and Abu Diráj beyond Suez. The broken plain around us, uniformly tawny as a lion's fell, dons ethereal tints as day is about to die, and borrows from the evening skies every colour of the rainbow. It has none of the charms of earthly landscape, grassy hill and wooded dale and park-like plain. All its beauties are reflected from the air and are assimilated till they become its own. No rose can be rosier than its blush-tints; no verdure delicater than its green glazing, the blend of chrome with lilac and cobalt; no yellow more golden than its foreground, no Tyrian purple more gorgeous than its middle distances; no azure more soothing and gracious than what clothes its horizon; no shift of scenery more pronounced than its rippling of alternate light and shade, flushing and paling under the acuter angles of the slanting sun-rays. Presently the giant grey shadow, or wall of night, rises slowly in the east; the blazonry of evening waxes faint and wan in the west, and without a shade of 'gloaming;' for here night comes on with a single stride, earth looks old and pallid and cold—alt, kalt und ungestalt—the spectre of her former self. Then follows the final transformation scene. The mysterious Zodiacal light, a pyramid whose base is the region of the setting sun, and whose apex towers towards the zenith, stands distinctly out of the black-blue velvety darkness, made visible by the golden lamps of star, planet, and constellation.

'—Contentez-vous mes yeux Vous ne verrez jamais chose plus belle!'

"Poor Suez is the sole exception to the general rule of gaiety and merry-making in Egypt. She is actually in the throes of house-changing. She knows that the flitting must be done, but she has no heart to do it. This will be her third remove: even as Heroöpolis on the Bitter Lakes shifted to Arsinoë and Arsinoë migrated to Suez, so Suez must transfer herself to the New Docks—Waghorntown. She must rebuild herself, hotel and inns, Consulates and offices, agencies and counting-houses, leaving the-present tenement to Egyptian officials and native population. The causeway run out to the New Harbour, has so swallowed the bays on either side of it, like the Alexandrian Heptastadium, that even light-draft steamers find shoal water, and in a few years there will be dry ground where the wave still rolls. Medieval Suez, like Sandwich, will presently become an inland town.

"And yet another change for the worse awaits her. We shall in a few years land from Malta at Gurnah, the famous old Cyrene south-east of the island which did not shelter St. Paul. Lying near the north-eastern shore of the Sidra Gulf (Syrtis Major), with a safe port distant ten miles, it was famous in Roman days as the Capital of the Cyreniaca, one of the granaries of the Empire; and the splendour of its ruins shows a high degree of civilization. Through this ancient land, Pentapolis, where there are no mechanical difficulties, a railroad will carry us to Alexandria. We shall then run up viâ Cairo to Keneh, turn eastward, and embark at El-Kusayr (Cosseir). This line, proposed about a decade ago, is sure to be built. It will spare us the mortification of the disagreeable and dangerous Suez-gulf, which is ever too stormy or too still; moreover, it will be a gain of three clear days, and in this section of the nineteenth century the shortest line surely wins. I say nothing about the proposed 'Jordan Canal,' which proposes to deluge half the 'Holy Land,' beyond an expression of admiration that men in their senses can be induced to listen to it. The next move will be for the Man in the Moon to apply for a railway.

"And Suez has been for some time en petite santé! She has suffered from Dengué fever, which she calls Abú rukab, or 'Father of Knees,' because those articulations make themselves prominently felt. The complaint, unpleasant though not perilous, used to rage in Syrian Bayrút, and of late years Cairo suffered from it severely. The locally learned attribute its origin to impure drinking-water; if so, Suez has to blame herself for not cleaning her Canal. Perhaps her constitutional delicacy has prevented, during the Rebellion, her normal display of uproarious temper. All 'old Egyptians' were notably deceived in their forecasts about Suez as about Alexandria. The so-called National Movement never made head here, and yet with certain remarkable exceptions Englishmen and Europeans showed the normal poltroonery. It moves laughter to hear of men armed to the teeth sneaking home at night to find all the world peacefully asleep. It would be invidious to mention the names of those who manfully stood their ground, and who won the respect of the natives whilst the runaways fell into the utmost contempt. But it is to be hoped that their services in keeping the peace will be duly recognized by either Government.

"Before Suez can settle down in her fourth home she has hard work to do. The apparently solid masonry of the north and south basins in the French Docks is being washed away by mètres: the walls resemble the bombarded Alexandrian Forts; and here we have another fine study of modern ruins compared with the ancient which were built with the express purpose of defying Time. The only remedy will be to fill up both areas and fit them for building-ground. There is already space enough to begin with; but Suez No. 4 must have room to grow. The Harbour of the future will be formed, like Port Saíd, by the broad space between the Canal piers, where dredging and deepening are the only things needful. It is to be hoped that modern Suez will be laid out on a regular plan and with due attention to drainage. Moria Pasha should look to this.

"The Suez Caravanserai, whose cloistered court has received so many generations of Thelemi monks, is now occupationless as Othello—

'A dismal hostel in a dismal land.'

Like the Town, it must fare south with bag and baggage, and the fine old building will become warehouses—possibly an usine when the gold mines of Midian come to be worked. For some years, however, it will accommodate travellers to 'Sinai,' Petra, and long Desert. Moreover, there is now no climate in Lower Egypt like that of 'Suez the Sanitarium;' it has none of the wet reeking heat of Alexandria, or the raw rheumatic damp of Cairo, which tree-planting, street-flooding, and irrigation have so soon changed from good to bad. It is a treat to breathe the ozoned air of Gulf and Desert, a sensation sui generis like the flavour of Nile-water. Those who seek the Cairo-climate of 1852 must find it at Thebes or at Philæ.

"At the Suez Hôtel I found Colonel (now Sir Charles) Warren and his party. They had lately arrived from Ismailíyeh, whither they had been driven by the illness of one of the subalterns; a fiery march of a hundred and twenty miles without water had caused a sunstroke. Here, too, were Mr. and Miss Charrington, and Messieurs Gill and Houndle, and Captain Stephenson of H.M.S. Carysfort occasionally put in an appearance. Having all one and the same occupation and preoccupation, we discussed the chances pro and con most anxiously. The general conclusion was that the deaths were 'not proven.' At the same time the cumulative circumstantial evidence was strong against hope of saving life; also the negative proof that of the many Bedawi witnesses daily examined not one could state that he had heard of a survivor. And yet there was still a bare chance. For some weeks a white man had been reported to be wandering about the wilderness. At Ghazzah (Gaza), the turbulent, half-Bedawi town in Southern Syria, a Fellah, Mohammed bin Khaysh, had mentioned the rumour to some Christian acquaintances as lately as November 10th. He refused to communicate with the Rev. Mr. Schapira, the Church Missionary there stationed; but his story appeared credible enough. The white man, looking talkhán (sick and sorry), had fallen in with a wandering tribe (name not specified) near El-'Akabah, and had accosted one of them, saying after Arab-fashion, 'Ana fi 'irzak'—'I am under thy protection!' When the search became hot, the white man, who may have been the dragoman or the servant, was carried inland, but where, deponent could not specify. Also at Ghazzah an English-made gun had been brought in, showing direct communication with the plunderers.

"And here it may be well to note that the original and universally accepted account of the murder was a mere fabrication. It stated that the captives 'had been led by the Governor of Nakhil' (the Fort El-Nakhl, midway between Suez and El-'Akabah) 'to the edge of a precipice, and had there been offered the alternative of throwing themselves over or of being shot. Professor Palmer covered his eyes with his hand and leapt, and Messieurs Gill and Charrington chose the other alternative, and were shot.' This romance, which utterly ignored the two servants, dragoman and cook, was the invention of some 'Own Correspondent,' telegraphed from Cairo on October 26th. Being of the category circumstantial and picturesque, it at once found its way into the newspapers of the civilized world; and it caused sore doubts to rise in the minds of all experts. No wonder that Colonel Warren was displeased by the publication of the silly tale.

"The next account appeared in El-Ahrám (Les Pyramides) of November 8th. The details were literally correct; it mentioned the guide Abú Sufíh; the attack in the Wady Sadr; the destruction of the whole party, including the servants, and the disappearance of the £3000 in gold. I had hoped to see the extract reprinted by the Egyptian Gazette, but Le Phare had been beforehand, and professional sensitiveness left the public in ignorance.

"Mr. Walter Besant, in his biographical sketch of Professor Palmer (Athenæum, November 11th) preceding his detailed memoir, declared that he would be grateful for any information likely to make it more complete. I therefore make no apology for intruding my few personal reminiscences upon the reader.

"On July 11, 1870, when we were in summer quarters at Bludán, Anti-Libanus, I suddenly found two Englishmen camping with a gypsy-tent below the garden. These were Palmer and C. F. Tyrwhitt-Drake, brown and sunburnt by travel in the service of the 'Sinai Survey Expedition' led by Captain (now Sir Charles) Wilson. They proved the most pleasant of companions during a trip to Ba'albak, to the sources of the Litani (not Leontes), and to the unvisited crests of the northern Lebanon. We parted at the Cedars, promising ourselves to meet again, and we did live and travel together often afterwards. How little we thought that within four years one would find a grave at Jerusalem, the victim of its fatal climate; and that the other would return to seek death on the scene of his old labours!

"Of Palmer I remarked that he was a born linguist, a rarity among all races except, perhaps, the Armenian. He had the linguistic instinct, an insight which required only to hear or to be shown a tongue. He mastered it as a musical genius learns an instrument; he picked up words, sentences, and idioms like a clever child with the least possible study of grammar and syntax. The truth is, he was supra grammaticans. During his energetic winter wanderings he had collected a whole vocabulary of Bedawi words, and he evidently revelled, like the late Percy Smythe, Lord Strangford, in his exceptional power of appreciating dialectic differences. He read and wrote Arabic like English, and he took delight in surprising the people by out-of-the-way phrases, by peculiar forms of blessing and unblessing, and by the rhymed prose of the 'Thousand Nights and a Night.' He kept also for times of need a vocabulary which terrified the superstitious: this served his turn amongst the vagrant bandits of Petra and the Nejeb, or South Country. He then knew something of Hindostani, which he afterwards cultivated, and which assisted him in so mastering the Romani (Gypsy) dialect, that he printed metrical translations in Mr. Leland's volume. Although he had learned Persian in London and at Cambridge, he spoke it as well as I could, and he had acquired the pure Shirázi twang. Lamenting his ignorance of German and the Scandinavian tongues, which he mastered at a later period, he proposed to devote three years to Arabia, Persia, and Egypt. Diis aliter visum! His last volume, 'Hindūstāni, Persian, and Arabic,' one of 'Trübner's Collection of Simplified Grammars,' a series which will suffer by his loss, lies before me; and I note with sorrow that his translation of Háfiz, a taste for which he had carefully trained himself, will lack the delicate final touches.

"Returning to England in the summer of 1870, Palmer published his valuable reports, memoirs, and papers in the organ of the Palestine Exploration Fund. He also printed, in two volumes (Bell and Daldy, 1871), 'The Desert of the Exodus,' a popular account of his two walking journeys, in company with Tyrwhitt-Drake, and without dragoman or servants, which occupied parts of 1869 and 1870. He had not then learnt that the so-called 'Sinai' is simply a modern forgery, dating probably after the second century A.D.; that the Jewish nation never knew where the true 'Mountain of the Law' was; that it is differently placed by St. Paul and his contemporary Josephus, who describes it after the fashion of Sinbad the Sailor; that the first Mount Sinai (Jebel Sarbál) was invented by the Copts, the second (Jebel Musa) by the Greeks, the third (also Jebel Musa) by the Moslems, and the fourth (Jebel Safsáfeh) by Dr. Robinson the American; that the Exodists would naturally travel by the present Haj highway from Suez to El-'Akabah; and that learned Jews now incline to the belief that the real Tor Síná lay somewhere in the Tíh Desert north of the great Pilgrimage-line. Jebel Aráif has, as far as we know, the strongest claims. Moreover, Palmer insisted upon translating, with the vulgar, 'Tíh' by 'Wilderness of the Wanderings,' when it means a wilderness where man may wander. Much friendly banter upon these points passed between us as often as we met in Syria and London, and, finally, he seemed to agree in opinion with me. I may note that his details concerning the Bedawi of the 'Phárán Peninsula,' as it is called by my late friend, Dr. Charles Beke, require copious revision; and it is to be hoped that Colonel Warren will correct them and supply the deficiencies.

"Professor Palmer spent twelve years in England, chiefly at Cambridge, working most energetically the professional, literary, and especially the Oriental veins. His friends lamented that he devoted so much valuable time to what Sir W. Jones calls the 'avenues and porticoes of learning,' dictionaries and vocabularies, grammars and manuals, instead of cultivating his high gifts of fancy and imagination. Yet he found time for a spirited metrical version of the Arab poet Buhá El Dín of Egypt, for a romantic life of Harún El-Rashíd, and for the charming 'Song of the Reed,' a title redolent of Persian mysticism. His Biography told his various gifts, as a traveller, a professor, a University lecturer and examiner, an improvisatore and rhymer, a barrister, an actor, a conjurer and thought-reader, a draughtsman and caricaturist, a writer of many books, and lastly, a politician and journalist.

"About the end of last June, when the troubles in Egypt became serious, 'The Palmer' resolved to make practical use of his linguistic studies, and gallantly volunteered to take part in putting down the rebellion. His project was to dissuade the Bedawi from attacking the Suez Canal, to collect camels for transport, and to raise the Wild Men of the Tíh against the Rebels. He was duly warned, I believe, that in case of capture he would be treated as a prisoner of war, perhaps as a spy; but no consideration of personal danger had any weight with his gallant spirit.

"The brave heart landed at Jaffa in the Austro-Hungarian Lloyd's. During his few days of preparation he became immensely popular; three months afterwards I found every one full of his praises. Mr. Besant is right: 'Perhaps it would not be too much to assert that he had no business or private relations with any man who did not straightway become his friend.' He engaged a dragoman, a Christian pupil of the American College, Bayrút; and as servant a young Jew of Jaffa, who, by-the-by, has left a large family utterly destitute. He then visited the Rev. Mr. Schapira at Ghazzah, and set out by 'Short Desert,' as older travellers called it, for Suez. An obituary article in the Academy (November 18th) declares that he 'turned back a Bedawy invasion of the Suez Canal.' I could hear nothing of this exploit on the spot. He might, and perhaps he would, have done it had he had the opportunity; but he also had grossly exaggerated in his own mind the numbers and the importance of the Tíh tribes. For his thousands we must read hundreds.

"On August 1st Shaykh Abdullah El Shámi (the Syrian) met at Suez his future companions, Captain Gill and Lieutenant Charrington, R.N. The former was a well-known and admirable traveller, who had spent the last winter studying Arabic in North Africa, and who had already done good service by cutting the telegraphic wires connecting Egypt with Syria. The latter was a young officer of great promise, burning to win his spurs. And now the fatal series of mistakes seems to have begun. I cannot but think that, after so many quiet, peaceful years in England, the laborious Desert march through the fiery heats of July must have affected, to a certain extent, Palmer's strong clear brain.

"Before entering the Arabian wastes, strangers always hire and pay a Ghafír—guide and protector. He ought to be a powerful chief, who can defend his 'guests' by the prestige of his name, and if necessary by the number of his matchlocks. Palmer may have preserved some sentimental reminiscences of his Bedawi friends and acquaintances; and may even have trusted to the exploded prestige of 'bread and salt.' The old chivalrous idea has gradually weakened till it has well-nigh died out. It may linger amongst the highest and noblest clans of the Anazeh, but it no longer extends beyond El-Nejd. The partial modification consists of feeding the Bedawi every day; otherwise, if you plead Nahnu málihín! ('We are salt-fellows'), they rejoin, 'The salt is not in my belly.' The great majority of these 'sons of 'Antar,' who 'have ceased to be gentlemen,' ignore or rather deride the rococo practice of their forefathers. And there are scoundrels who will offer you a bowl with one hand and stab you with the other.

"Palmer engaged as his Ghafír one Matr (Abú) Nassár, so named after his son; his family name is Abú Safíh. The man is not, and never was, a 'Bedouin Sheik,' but a mere hirer of camels to pilgrims and travellers. He had quarrelled with, and parted from, his kinsmen the Lahiyát, to take refuge with the Dabbúr, a clan or sub-tribe of the Huwaytát. This Matr, moreover, was judged by those who knew him best to be light-headed and half-witted. His proceedings with Colonel Warren and his conduct on board the Carysfort, where he was detained for his own safety, confirm the suspicion. Yet he and his nephew—the camel-men do not count—were the only defence of an expedition which carried, amongst other valuables, the sum of £3000 in gold. Travellers in Bedawi-land never even name the noble metal, and the venerable Arab proverb says, 'Ikhfi zahab-ak, wa mazhab-ak wa Ziháb-ak'—'Hide thy gold, thy God-faith, and thy goings forth.' It has been asserted that the Englishmen had no firearms. This is an absurdity at first sight, and it is disproved by the gun produced at Ghazzah.

"The ill-starred party left Suez on August 8th, and passed the first night upon the sea-sands. On the 9th they marched viâ 'Moses' Wells' to the Wady Kahabín, and next day, leaving their luggage in the rear, they entered the Wady Sadr, which heads near El-Nakhl. On the right jaw of this fiumara rises the Tel el-Sadr, alias Tel Bishr, the 'Barn Hill' of our Hydrographic Charts, a broken tabular block within sight of the Suez Hotel.

"About midnight on August 10th, the expedition was surprised by a large body of the Terábín, or Bedawi of the Tíh, who trade with Ghazzah, and the Huwaytát, a mongrel tribe of Egypto-Arabs who are settled upon the Nile banks, nomads in the 'Sinaitic' peninsula and semi-nomads in the Land of Midian.[5] Palmer, they say, was the only one of the little party who fired and wounded a Bedawin in the foot.

"I pass rapidly over the deplorable scene which followed the attack. Palmer, seeing the extreme danger, expostulated with the horde of hired assassins; but all his sympathetic faculty, his appeals to Arab honour and superstition, his threats, his denunciations, and the gift of eloquence which had so often prevailed with the Wild Men, were unheeded. As vainly, Matr covered his protégés with his 'abá (cloak), thus making them part of his own family. On the evening of August 11th, the captives were led, according to the general voice of the Bedawi informants, to the high bank of the Wady Sadr, where it receives another and a smaller fiumara yet unnamed. Here they were slaughtered in cold blood and thrown down the height. The object of not burying the bodies, according to-Bedawi practice, was the dread lest they should afterwards be discovered by means known to the Frank. It was thought safer to leave them to the birds and beasts of the wilderness. Moreover, the first rain-torrent would sweep away all traces of the foul deed.

"And here let me note that on this occasion the Bedawi behaved as Bedawi never behaved before. The Wild Men will attack strangers for the smallest inducement. They will plunder their captives, strip, beat, and even wound them. They will shoot the enemy when maddened by fight; but their almost superstitious terror of the Dam, or Thár (Vendetta, blood-feud) prevents their taking life in cold blood. Nor have I ever heard of their keeping prisoners for a whole day and then deliberately massacring them after the fury of battle had cooled down. The whole conduct of the crime evidently suggests the far-seeing iniquity of civilized men; nor is it hard to divine whence came the suggestion.

"The evil report soon spread far and wide, and the public mind grew more and more excited. This mishap was the only black spot in the bright roll of continued successes. Colonel Warren, R.E., was directed to conduct the search for the missing expedition. He does not speak Arabic, nor had he any personal acquaintance with the Terábín and the Huwaytát. But he had taken a notable part in the Palestine Exploration, which necessarily brought him into frequent and familiar contact with the Bedawi. He is a man of unusual energy and tenacity, and he has shown great tact and savoir faire in his dealings with the Wild Men. After a preliminary visit to Tor, in company with Mr. Consul West, on September 6th, he had some hopes of rescuing the captives, and he took the properest measures to secure success. In company with Lieutenants Burton and Haynes, and provided with an escort of some hundred and fifty friendly Bedawi, by the chiefs Salám El-Shadíd of Cairo and Musá Nasr of Tir, he scoured the Desert in all directions and made some important captures, which will lead to satisfactory results. On October 23rd he reached the reported scene of the murders; but it was too late to find the remains of his countrymen. The expected rain-torrent had swept them away. He picked up a truss belonging to Palmer—no conclusive proof of death; a traveller would carry more than one article of the kind. A sock bearing Captain Gill's name, and containing the fragment of a foot, seemed to forbid hope in this case. Lieutenant Charrington's overalls, marked 'Bombay,' and a caoutchouc tobacco-pouch, showed clear evidence of plunder, but nothing more. The other articles found in the neighbourhood were torn books, letters, and papers. All were temporarily deposited in the Egyptian fort El-Nakhl, whose garrison at first turned out to attack the search-party. Of the burial in Westminster Abbey nothing need be said.

"That all the culprits, even those still at large, will eventually be surrendered I have no doubt. It is a mere question of time. And until justice is thoroughly done there will be no safety for English or European travellers in the 'Sinaitic' Peninsula. No more hanging will be required, but all concerned in the foul deed should undergo imprisonment in terrorem at Cairo. But it is sad to punish these poor tools when the guiding hands escape even blame.

"Of my proceedings after leaving Suez I need say nothing: they were disconnected with Egypt. Let me briefly resume the results of my three weeks' observations.

"The occupation of the Nile Valley has been thrust upon us by force majeure—the force of events. France was similarly circumstanced with respect to Tunis, Italy will be in the case of Tripoli: the rotten old fabric of the Porte is surely though slowly falling to pieces, and the fragments are being fitted into their right places.

"What form our Protectorate of the Nile Valley will eventually assume has not yet been determined; but if we can only come to a decision, the Public may rest assured that our tenure of the Nile Valley will be a success. At present it is not, and by the very condition of things it cannot be. Egypt hardly deserves a 'caravan government;' what it wants is stability, repose, and the training of a child to the way it should go. The unnatural excitement of looking forward to a complete change, which will mean anarchy, disorder, and violence, is doing immense and lasting damage. It interferes with revenue, the difficulty of the present hour, a problem which seems to be puzzling even the experienced Sir Evelyn Baring. With diminished floating power and the millstone of debt ever weighing him down, his friends can only wish him well out of the scrape.

"The first to be considered are the sons of the soil. They have the strongest right to fair play, and they should at least share the goods of which the stranger has once more spoiled them. The ring of foreigners, who would exclude all except their own small cliques, must be broken up, and the monopoly of highly paid employments be exchanged for free selection and for competition amongst Egyptian candidates. But this is a work of time. 'Egypt for the Egyptians' as much as you please; but at present the Egyptians must be trained for Egypt. Meanwhile the supervision of imperial questions, matters of finance, and those involving income and outcome, the magistracy and the Police, cannot but remain under English surveillance.

"The Condominium, or Joint Control, has done in its day excellent work, but its work and day are alike done. It has tabulated the resources of the Nile Valley, and has introduced order into the chaos of native revenue. Moreover, during the last few centuries the Fellah has never been so happy or so well-to-do as under its administration. But a rule by the representatives of only two great creditors, to the neglect of all others, was an invidious measure irritating the rest of Europe. Nor would it be possible to govern by means of a board: the more votes the more discord. The old Condominium must be modified to suit a permanent Protectorate.

"Modern Egypt has suffered severely from the latifundia which, according to Pliny, perdidere Italiani. What Egypt especially requires is the maintenance of that class of peasant proprietors to which she owed all her ancient prosperity. This is the institution for which the Gracchi 'sedition'd' in vain; which modern Italy has attempted in Apulia; which Russia holds in view, and which Ireland must and will have—the only Land Act that can ever satisfy her. The most fertile of countries has been sorely injured by the absorption of small properties into immense Khedivial domains, monopolizing one-fifth of the area, and into the large tracts belonging to 'the Pashas.' The sooner these model 'landed estates' are redistributed the better. However, as a trip to the Helwán les Bains will show, there is still a large proportion of waste ground—Nile mud buried in shallow sand-sheets—which can be fertilized by canals drawn from up-stream. The Great Valley can still support ten millions, and even more when a system of damming shall be applied to her river. In the mean time all attention should be given to the Cadastre, or Revenue Survey, which wants a radical reform. The dawdling, feckless system of General Stone would have carried it well into the twentieth century. Better pension off 'hard bargains' than pay and retain them as standing obstructions.

"Egypt no longer wants the disproportionate armies and fleets with which Mohammed Ali and Ibrahim Pashas conquered their neighbours. But she must have a small body of Regulars—not less than ten thousand—to defend her against Abyssinian raids, and to protect her Equatorial Provinces, where (Chinese) Gordon (Pasha) did such noble work. As regards the harbour on the Red Sea, proposed for the acceptance of the 'king of kings,' Johannes, I may say that the measure is theoretically good and practically evil. The port would serve only for the importation of arms and ammunition, and would make the troublesome 'Highlanders of Æthiopia,' ever a nest of hornets, more dangerous than at any time of their turbid history. As it is, the Egyptians cannot fight in the mountains nor the Abyssinians in the plains, a consideration which tends to keeping the peace. But the breech-loader and the magazine-gun, when provided with cartridges, will wholly change the condition of the Æthiopian. It is to be hoped that the Egyptian army of the future, composed of Fellahs and negroes from the Súdán, and officered by Englishmen and natives, will be built on the lines of the old East India Company's force, a return to which is one of the crying wants of India. The management may safely be left in the experienced hands of (Val.) Baker Pasha, unless he has to work in the chains of home orders.

"And as with the army, so with the Egyptian fleet—a mere show, an article of luxury, costly moreover as it was useless. The country wants only a few heavily armed gunboats to guard her African coast, to put down the slave-export, and to prevent Arab piracy. Subsidized lines of steamers, the more the better, suffice to connect her with Asia as well as with Africa. The old doddering Egyptian men-o'-war which rot in Alexandria and Suez harbours, melancholy remnants of past power, may be carted away as soon as possible.

"Part of the duty of the Police force will be to suppress that cruelty to animals which is one of Egypt's many abominations. The want of some active measure has long been felt, and during the last ten years a succession of dilettanti has attempted to take the matter in hand. The Khedive has been interviewed; a Princess or two has been secured as patroness, and even subscription-lists have been opened. But the work is too serious, too continuous, for amateurs. Here we require an experienced delegate from the parent society in London, who, in concert with a local committee, will lay down the lines of work, and will determine what ought not to be done as well as what ought to be done. But the 'sinews of war' must also be forthcoming; and they can readily be supplied by military and naval economies.

"Lastly of the slave, who, theoretically free, is as much a bondsman as ever. Egypt yielded with her usual good grace, the moment serious pressure was brought to bear upon her. This is her way, the way of the universal East. She grants every demand, and takes especial care that nothing be granted. Pashas were appointed to issue certificates of freedom and to inquire into the case of runaways, whom the masters invariably denounced to the police as criminals, and proved their crimes by false witnesses—a drug in the market. As soon as the first excitement was over, a reaction set in and action slumbered: this was all the Government wanted. The one thing needful is still needed—a standing mixed committee of Europeans and Egyptians, presided over by a responsible English official. Its duties will be to make the abolition of slavery generally known throughout the length of the land, and to see that emancipation is fairly worked. As for that other abomination, the neutral, penalty of death should be unflinchingly inflicted upon those with whom it originates. All their names are well known, yet it causes us no surprise that the law has been and still is impudently broken, while the law-breakers have invariably escaped punishment.

"Egypt is now virtually independent of Turkey: during the court-martial of the Rebels not an allusion was made to the 'Suzerain.' It is unfair that she should continue to transmit money which is wanted for public works and internal improvements, because the so-called Tribute has been mortgaged to Frankish creditors of Turkey. The Porte is still rich enough to pay her debts, and, if she chooses again to be bankrupt, shareholders must put up with the losses which, for a high consideration, they have so long risked. Egypt now expects a complete disruption of the injurious tie: the living land must no longer be bound, in Mezentiaes-fashion, to the Ottoman corpse. She will have a fair field, and favour enough, under an English Protectorate if we only govern like men, not like Philanthropes and Humanitarians.

"Richard F Burton."

APPENDIX I.

OPINIONS OF THE PRESS AND OF SCHOLARS ON THE "ARABIAN NIGHTS."

"To the Editor of the Pall Mall Gazette.

"Sir,—Your correspondent 'Sigma' has forgotten the considerable number of 'students' who will buy Captain Burton's translation as the only literal one, needing it to help them in what has become necessary to many—a masterly knowledge of Egyptian Arabic. The so-called 'Arabian Nights' are about the only written halfway house between the literary Arabic and the colloquial Arabic, both of which they need, and need introductions to. I venture to say that its largest use will be as a grown-up school book, and that it is not coarser than the classics in which we soak all our boys' minds at school.

"Anglo-Egyptian.

"September 14th, 1885."

The Bat, September 29th, 1885.

"Captain Burton, in his way, renders a gigantic service to all students of literature who are not profound Orientalists, and to many who are, by giving them a literal, honest, and accurate translation of the 'Arabian Nights.'

"The blatant buffoons who have spoken of Captain Burton's work indifferently only show their own ignorance of the literature of the East. Captain Burton's work is well worth the price he charges for it to students of Eastern literatures and Eastern manners, and Eastern customs; but the misguided lunatic who invests in it in the hope of getting hold of a good thing, in the Holywell Street sense of the term, will find indeed that the fool and his money are soon parted."

Morning Advertiser, September 15th.

"There is one work not entered in the publishers' announcements of 'new books,' though for years scholars and others have looked forward to it with an eagerness which has left far behind the ordinary curiosity which is bestowed on the greatest of contributions to current literature, and to-day the new fortunate possessors are examining it with an interest proportionate to the long toil which has been bestowed on its preparation. We refer to Captain Burton's 'Arabian Nights.' Hitherto all the editions have been imperfect, and more or less colourless versions of the original. They throw a flood of light on hundreds of features of Oriental life on which the student has failed to be informed. But the work only a few limited students can ever see, and is simply priceless to any one thus interested in the subject, and may be regarded as marking an era in the annals of Oriental translation. Burton writes: 'Many a time and oft, after the day's journey was over, I gathered the Arabs around me and read or recited these tales to them, until the tears trickled down their cheeks and they rolled on the sand in uncontrollable delight. Nor was it only in Arabia that the immortal "Nights" did me such notable service. I found the wildlings of Somali-land equally amenable to their discipline; no one was deaf to the charm, and the two women workers of my caravan on its way to Harar were incontinently dubbed by my men Shehrazade and Deenarzade.'"

The Lincoln Gazette, October 10th, 1885.

"Captain Burton's first volume in sombre black and dazzling gold—the livery of the Abassides—made its appearance three weeks ago, and divided attention with the newly discovered star. It is the first volume of ten, the set issued solely to subscribers. And already, as in the case of Mr. Payne's edition, there has been a scramble to secure it, and it is no longer to be had for love or money. The fact is, it fills a void; the world has been waiting for this chef d'œuvre, and all lovers of the 'Arabian Nights' wonder how they have got on without it."

The Lincoln Gazette, October 10th, 1885.

"Another speciality of Captain Burton's edition is the notes. He is celebrated for sowing the bottom of his pages with curiously illuminating remarks, and he has here carried out his custom in a way to astonish. He tells us that those who peruse his notes in addition to those of Lane would be complete proficients in the knowledge of Oriental practices and customs. Lane begins with Islam, from Creation to the present day, and has deservedly won for his notes the honour of a separate reprint. Captain Burton's object in his annotations is to treat of subjects which are completely concealed from the multitude. They are utterly and entirely esoteric, and deal with matters of which books usually know nothing. Indeed, he has been assured by an Indian officer who had been forty years in the East, that he was entirely ignorant of the matters revealed in these notes. Without these marvellous elucidations, the 'Arabian Nights' would remain only half understood, but by their aid we may know as much of the Moslems as the Moslems know of themselves."

Whitehall Review, September 17th, 1885.

"The publication of the first volume of Captain Burton's translation of the 'Alf Layla' enriches the world of Oriental investigation with a monument of labour and scholarship and of research. The book is advisedly, and even inevitably, printed for private circulation, and is intended, as Captain Burton says in his preface, only for the eyes of such persons as are seriously students of Oriental life and manners, and are desirous of making a more complete acquaintance with the great masterpieces of Eastern literature than has hitherto been possible, except to finished Arabic scholars. In the name of the whole world of Oriental scholarship, we offer our heartfelt thanks and congratulations to Captain Burton upon the appearance of this first volume; and we look forward with the keenest interest for its successors."

Nottingham Journal, September 19th, 1885.

"To scholars and men who have sufficient love of the soul of these sweet stories to discern the form in its true proportions, the new edition will be welcome. From an Oriental point of view the work is masterly to a degree. The quatrains and couplets, reading like verses from Elizabethan mantels, and forming a perfect rosary of Eastern love, the constant succession of brilliant pictures, and the pleasure of meeting again our dear old friend Shahrázád, all these combine to give a unique charm and interest to this 'perfect expositor' of the mediæval Moslem mind."

John Addington Symonds, Am Hof, Davos Platz, Switzerland.

Academy, October 3rd, 1885.

"The real question is whether a word-for-word version of the 'Arabian Nights,' executed with peculiar literary vigour, exact scholarship, and rare insight into Oriental modes of thought and feeling can, under any shadow of pretence, be ignored."

Lincoln Gazette, November 2nd, 1885.

"In announcing the issue of the first volume of Captain Burton's long-expected edition of the 'Arabian Nights,' the Standard reminds its readers that the book is printed for subscribers only, and is sold at a price which is not likely to be paid by any save the scholars and students for whose instruction it is intended. Many of those who know the ordinary epitome prepared for the nursery and drawing-room have little idea of the nature of the original. Galland's abridgment was a mere shadow of the Arabic. Even the editions of Lane, and Habricht, and Torrens, and Payne, represented but imperfectly the great corpus of Eastern folklore, which Captain Burton has undertaken to render into English. To Captain Burton the preparation of these volumes must have been a labour of love. He began them in conjunction with his friend, Steinhaüser, soon after his return from the Mecca pilgrimage, more than thirty years ago, and he has been doing something to them ever since. In no other work of the same nature is Eastern life so vividly portrayed. We see the Arab knight, his prowess and his passion for adventure, his love and his revenge, the craft of his wives and the hypocrisy of his priests, as plainly as if we had lived among them. Gilded palaces, charming women, lovely gardens, caves full of jewels, and exquisite repasts, captivate the senses and give variety to the panorama which is passing before our eyes. Indeed there is a tinge of melancholy pervading the preface in which the Editor refers to his 'unsuccessful professional life,' and to the knowledge of which his country has cared so little to avail itself. When the great explorer discovered the African lakes he was a captain. He is a captain still. No University has thought fit to make him a Doctor; and while knighthoods have been distributed with a profusion which has gone far to lower the value of these distinctions, the foremost of English travellers and the greatest of European Arabists is still untitled.[1] Even in the recent Egyptian troubles—which are referred to somewhat bitterly—his wisdom was not utilized, though after the death of Major Morrice, there was not an English official in the camps before Suakin capable of speaking Arabic. On this scandal, and on the ignorance of Oriental customs which was everywhere displayed, Captain Burton is deservedly severe.

"There is only one 'Arabian Nights' in the world, and only one Captain Burton. The general tone of the London Press has been distinctly favourable, the Standard leading the way and other journals following suit. The 'Thousand Nights and a Night' offers a complete picture of Eastern peoples. But the English reader must be prepared to find that the manners of Arabs and Moslems differ from his own. Eastern people look at things from a more natural and primitive point of view, and they say what they think with the unrestraint of children. At times their plain speaking is formidable; it is their nature to be downright, and to be communicative on subjects about which the Saxon is shy or silent, and it must be remembered that the separation of the sexes adds considerably to this freedom of expression.

"It is only knowledge that knows how to observe; and it is satisfactory that Captain Burton's amazing insight into Eastern peculiarities has been put to its best use in giving a true idea of the people of the Sun and a veritable version of their book of books. The labour expended on this edition has been enormous. The work could only have been completed by the most excessive and pertinacious application. All the same we are told it has been 'a labour of love,' a task that has brought its exceeding great reward. There is only one regret, the circulation is limited. We cannot help hoping, at some future time, a selection may be made from the ten volumes. If the public cannot have the whole work, at least it might have a part, and not be entirely shut out from a masterpiece unparalleled."

Home News, September 18th, 1885.

"Captain Burton has begun to issue the volumes of his subscription translation of the 'Arabian Nights,' and its fortunate possessors will now be able to realize the full flavour of Oriental feeling. They will now have the great storehouse of Eastern folklore opened to them, and Captain Burton's minute acquaintance with Eastern life makes his comments invaluable. In this respect, as well as in the freeness of the translation, the version will be distinguished from its many predecessors. Captain Burton's preface, it may be observed, bears traces of soreness at official neglect. Indeed it seems curious that his services could not have been utilized in the Soudan, when the want of competent Arabic scholars was so severely felt."

Daily Exchange, September 19th, 1883.

"The first volume of Captain Burton's 'Thousand Nights and a Night,' printed at Benares by the Kamashastra Society, for private subscribers only, has been delivered to the latter. If the other nine portions equal the first, English literature will be the richer by a work the like of which is rare. The English is strong and vitally idiomatic. It is the English of Shakespeare and Jeremy Taylor, the English of Robert Browning, with a curiously varied admixture of modern colloquial phraseology. I confess that I was not prepared, familiar as I was with Captain Burton's other work, to find so perfect a command of clear and vigorous style on the part of the great traveller and Oriental scholar. I must say that the tone of the work is singularly robust and healthy. What a treasurehouse Captain Burton has opened! Until he turned the key we knew little or nothing of the 'Nights,' and the notes which he has added to the work have a value that is simply unique."

Standard, September 12th.

"The first volume of Captain Burton's long-expected edition of the 'Arabian Nights' was issued yesterday to those who are in a position to avail themselves of the wealth of learning contained in this monumental labour of the famous Eastern traveller. The book is printed for subscribers only, and is sold at a price which is not likely to be paid by any save the scholars and students for whose instruction it is intended.

"Moreover, no previous editor—not even Lane himself—had a tithe of Captain Burton's acquaintance with the manners and customs of the Moslem East. Hence, not unfrequently, they made ludicrous blunders, and in no instance did they supply anything like the explanatory notes which have added so greatly to the value of this issue of 'Alf Laylah wa Laylah.'

"On the other hand, apart from the language, the general tone of the 'Nights' is exceptionally high and pure. The devotional fervour, as Captain Burton justly claims, often rises to the boiling point of fanaticism, and the pathos is sweet and deep, genuine and tender, simple and true. Its life—strong, splendid, and multitudinous—is everywhere flavoured with that unaffected pessimism and constitutional melancholy which strikes deepest root under the brightest skies. The Kazi administers poetical justice with exemplary impartiality; and so healthy is the morale that at times we descry vistas of a transcendental morality—the morality of Socrates and Plato.

"In no other work is Eastern life so vividly pourtrayed. This work, illuminated with notes so full of learning, should give the nation an opportunity for wiping away that reproach of neglect which Captain Burton seems to feel more keenly than he cares to express."

St. James's Gazette, September 12th.

"One of the most important translations to which a great English scholar has ever devoted himself is now in the press. For three decades Captain Burton has been more or less engaged on his translation of the 'Arabian Nights,' the latest of the many versions of that extraordinary story which has been made into English, the only one at all worthy of a great original."

South Eastern Herald, October 31st.

"At Mr. Quaritch's trade sale the other day, Captain Burton made an interesting speech regarding the 'Thousand and One Nights,' of which the gist was to show that his translation performs a double office. It is not only a faithful and racy version of the true original, but it also represents a better text than any which has been hitherto accessible in print or manuscript. He, in fact, produced for his own use, and by collation of the existing materials, a careful, critical recension of the original; and his rendering may, therefore, claim to stand towards the 'Alf Laylah' in the same manner as the Latin version of Plato, by Marsilius Ficinus, towards the Greek text."

Morning Advertiser.

"Captain Burton, thirty-three years ago, went in the disguise of an Indian pilgrim to Mecca and Al-Medinah, and no one capable of giving the world the result of his experience has so minute, so exhaustive a knowledge of Arab and Oriental life generally. Hence the work now begun—only a limited number of students can ever see—which is simply priceless to any one who concerns himself with such subjects, and may be regarded as marking an era in the annals of Oriental translation."

Whitehall Review, October 29th, 1885.

"The second volume of Captain Burton's translation of the 'Arabian Nights' has just been issued to the subscribers, who had already become impatient for a second instalment of this great and fascinating contribution to literature. The new volume is, if possible, of even greater interest than the first. It contains the whole of the fantastic semi-chivalrous story of King Omar Bin al-Nu'uman and his sons Sharrkan and Zau al-Makan, a knowledge of which has hitherto been confined chiefly to Oriental scholars, as Lane only admitted an episode from it into his version of 'Alif Laila.' Some of Sharrkan's adventures will remind students of other Eastern stories of some of the adventures recorded of the hero of Persian romance, Hatim Taī. As usual, Captain Burton's notes are rich, varied, and copious, of the greatest service to all serious students of Arabic manners and customs, and of Oriental life in general."

Montreal Daily Herald, September 21st, 1885.

"Captain Burton has translated the 'Arabian Nights,' but will only publish it for private distribution. A correspondent says that 'all these years we have been reading Lane's turgid emasculated selections we have been kept in the dark as to their singular beauty and vitally human strength. I have been amazed at the "Nights" as Englished by Captain Burton in strong, vital, picturesque prose. The stories, instead of being pieces of wild extravagance, unreal and theatrically tinselly, with the limelight instead of daylight, and paste instead of diamonds, are full of abounding life.'"

"Jehu Junior," Vanity Fair, October 24th, 1885.

"As a bold, astute traveller, courting danger, despising hardship, and compelling fortune, Captain Burton has few equals; as a master of Oriental languages, manners, and customs he has none. He is still very young, very vigorous, very full of anecdote and playful humour, and, what is remarkable in a linguist, he has not disdained even his own mother tongue, which he handles with a precision and a power that few can approach. He has recently crowned his literary labours by the most complete, laborious, uncompromising, and perfect translation of that collection of stories known to us as the 'Arabian Nights,' but more correctly called 'A Thousand Nights and a Night.' He is a wonderful man."

Morning Post, January 19th, 1886.

"Everything comes to him who waits—even the long-promised, eagerly expected 'Plain and Literal Translation of the Arabian Nights,' by Richard F. Burton. It is a whole quarter of a century since this translation of one of the most famous books of the world was contemplated, and we are told it is the natural outcome of the well-known pilgrimage to Medinah and Mecca. Of Captain Burton's fitness for the task who can doubt? It was during that celebrated journey to the Tomb of the Prophet that he proved himself to be an Arab—indeed, he says, in a previous state of existence he was a Bedouin. Did he not for months at a stretch lead the life of a Son of the Faithful, eat, drink, sleep, dress, speak, pray, like his brother devotees, the sharpest eyes failing to pierce his disguise? He knows the ways of Eastern men—and women—as he does the society of London or Trieste. How completely at home he is with his adopted brethren he showed at Cairo, when, to the amazement of some English friends who were looking on at the noisy devotions of some 'howling' Dervishes, he suddenly joined the shouting, gesticulating circle, and behaved as if to the manner born. He has qualified as a 'howler,' he holds a diploma as a master Dervish, and he can initiate disciples. Clearly, to use a phrase of Arabian story, it was decreed by Allah from the beginning—and fate and fortune have arranged—that Captain Burton should be the one of all others to confer upon his countrymen the boon of the genuine unsophisticated 'Thousand Nights and a Night.' In the whole of our literature no book is more widely known. It is spread broadcast like the Bible, Bunyan, and Shakespeare: yet although it is in every house, and every soul in the kingdom knows something about it, nobody knows it as it really exists. We have only had what translators have chosen to give—selected, diluted, and abridged transcripts. And of late some so-called 'original' books have been published, containing minor tales purloined bodily from the 'Nights.'"

Whitehall Review, May 24th, 1886.

"The sixth volume of Sir Richard Burton's 'Arabian Nights,' which has just been issued to subscribers, is one of the most interesting of the series to Anglo-Orientalists. For it contains that story—or set of stories—which is, perhaps, of all the tales of the 'Arabian Nights,' the dearest to legend-loving mankind, whether Oriental or Occidental—the story of the voyages of 'Sindbad the Sailor,' or of 'Sindbad the Seaman,' as Sir Richard Burton prefers to call him. Perhaps the only tale which at all competes in popularity with the wandering record of the 'Eastern Odysseus' is the story of 'Ali Baba,' and that, unfortunately, does not belong to the 'Arabian Nights' at all, and can only, as far as we know, be traced to a modern Greek origin. Lovers of the story of 'Sindbad the Sailor' will be pleased to learn that their old friend remains to all intents and purposes the same in Sir Richard's literal Translation as he was in the fanciful adaptation of Galland, and the more accurate rendering of Lane. He does not 'suffer a sea change,' but remains, what he has always been, the most wonderful wanderer in the whole range and region of romance. Sir Richard Burton's sixth volume contains, besides, that story of the 'Seven Viziers,' which in so many forms is a favourite in all the languages of the East."

The Bat, July 7th, 1886.

"As regards his translation, however, Captain Burton is certainly felicitous in the manner in which he has Englished the picturesque turns of the original. One great improvement in this version over that of Mr. Lane will be found in the fact that the verses so freely interspersed throughout the 'Nights' are here rendered in metre, and that an attempt also has often been made to preserve the assonants and the monorhyme of the Arabic. Mr. Lane frankly stated that he omitted the greater part of the poetry as tedious, and, through the loss of measure and rhyme, 'generally intolerable to the reader,' as, in truth, the specimens inserted mostly proved to be on account of the bald literalism of the rendering. Captain Burton has naturally inserted the poetry with the rest; and has often shown much skill in doing into English verse the rippling couplets of the original. Take as an instance, the verses which Mr. Lane renders:—

'Tell him who is oppressed with anxiety that anxiety will not last. As happiness passeth away, so passeth away anxiety.'

"Almost equally literal, and certainly more poetical, is Captain Burton, who gracefully turns this:—

'Tell whoso hath sorrow, Grief never shall last; E'en as Joy hath no morrow, so Woe shall go past.'

"And since, in proverbs and epigrams, so much depends on the form, the spirit of the original is well observed, when, for instance, we read in a certain chronicle the lines of one Ibn al Sumam:—

'Hold fast thy secret, and to none unfold: Lost is a secret when that secret's told. And fail thy breast thy secret to conceal, How canst thou hope another's breast shall hold?'

"Doubtless, too—and in this not following Mr. Lane—Captain Burton is right in retaining the original division into Nights: for, as he justly observes, 'Without the Nights, no Arabian Nights!' And, besides this being a prime feature of the original, a grateful pause is thereby introduced into these intricate and interminable stories. In the translation, Captain Burton's English is generally picturesque and always fluent. As it is frankly stated, too, he has 'never hesitated to coin a word when wanted.' Captain Burton, who has passed the greater portion of his life in Arab-speaking countries, mixing freely in Moslem society, and often passing—as during his pilgrimage—himself for a True Believer, is naturally well qualified to translate this 'Great Eastern Saga Book.' Also, since the scene of the stories is laid successively in every country of Islam, from Tangier to India, and beyond, the translator's intimate acquaintance, made during his wanderings, with all these peoples and places, stands him in good stead in elucidating peculiar manners and customs, and in this gives him the advantage over Mr. Lane, who had only seen Islam as domiciled in Egypt."

Court Society, March 4th, 1886.

"Not a little disgust has been excited by the vulgar sneer which a morning paper has indulged in at the expense of Sir Richard Burton. Long neglected by successive Governments, Captain Burton received, after forty-four years, a tardy recognition of his services. Straightway, it was suggested that he is made a knight because he translated the 'Arabian Nights.' It need scarcely be said that his translation has nothing to do with the distinction conferred upon him; but, as it is the habit in a certain quarter to denounce the literal translation of the 'Nights,' it cannot be too distinctly understood that Captain Burton never meant his work to fall into any hands save those of a thousand students."

The Sporting Life, July 17th, 1886.

"The more I see of this splendid translation, the more do I feel that we are indebted to the translator for the first real idea in English of the immortal original, and to him alone, for a complete reflection of the 'Arabian Nights.' The lustre and vigour of the English compel one's admiration at every step.... It is palpable enough that, until Sir Richard Burton's wonderful work first saw the light, we had no 'Arabian Nights.'"

The Bat, July 7th, 1886.

"Book-lovers will be glad to learn that Sir Richard Burton's 'Thousand and One Nights' will shortly be reprinted, and that also with revision which will remove it from the top shelf of a library to the drawing-room. Lady Burton is to be congratulated on her enterprise in taking up the matter, for, unquestionably, so admirable, and, indeed, instructive a work should be placed within the reach of all. A copy of the privately printed edition is now worth £25, and undoubtedly its reappearance as revised will be hailed with satisfaction by all lovers of Orientalism."

LETTERS FROM SCHOLARS.

Mr. Floyer, at the Telegraphic Conference, has secured Egypt telegraphic independence, and an annual gain of £7000.

"Government Telegraphs, Berlin, September 16th, 1885.

"My dear Captain Burton,

"I cannot tell you how delighted I am with the translation. The language is wonderful. Only you in the world could have written it. How did you find out 'ensorcelled,' instead of the vulgar 'bewitched'? And how did you find out a hundred other words equally graceful and exact? It is the most wonderful translation in the whole of literature. In accuracy, in swing, it breathes Egypt to me. I could take it and read it straight out to my Effendis almost word for word. But the language is wonderful. As compared with Eastwick's Anw'ar i Suhayli it is Tennyson to Gladstone. My sense of the feelings inspired by the first pages of the Foreword it is impossible to express, and I congratulate you most sincerely on your absolutely unique achievement.

"Yours very truly,

"(Signed) Ernest A. Floyer."

"October 24th.

"Dear Sir,

"I do not know whether a letter which I wrote to the Academy about your 'Arabian Nights' has come under your notice. If so, I beg you to excuse the chary words I used in commendation of a work which now, from the literary point of view, I regard as one of great original excellence."

"November 13th.

"I wish you had issued more numbers of your book, as you well deserve to be rewarded for such an admirable work. I delight in the vigour and Oriental character of the language. Even a few months in India were enough to make me appreciate and perhaps better understand the charm of the 'Arabian Nights.'"

"Dear Captain,

"The joy which your volume has occasioned me I will not attempt to express in a short letter. Let us meet soon, and talk of nothing else."

"Dear Burton,

"This is merely a line of greeting in appreciation of your first volume, which I have been reading, just to say how pleased I am with everything—intrinsic and extrinsic."

"September 25th.

"Dear Captain Burton,

"I have received the first volume of the 'Nights,' and beg you to accept my most heartfelt and sincere thanks for the valuable gift. I cannot express the pleasure which it affords me to see this wonderful book reproduced in a form which is as faithful a rendering of the original as it will remain an admirable 'monumentum aere perennius' of the English language.

"Moreover, I am not ashamed to acknowledge that in reading again the text, together with your translation, I have learned more Arabic in a few months than in as many years of former toilsome study."

"I want to tell you how thoroughly I have enjoyed your 'Arabian Nights,' and how greatly they have contributed to making life endurable during these months. Your 'Arabian Nights' is a revelation of Orientalism, and the finest study of words that I have ever met with. It will remain a literary text-book as long as the English language lasts."

"Volume I. awaiting me.

"I congratulate Captain Burton heartily. The book looks very handsome, and the notes are most valuable. Altogether a great success."

"Your 'Nights' are admirable, fascinating—the true thing at last! I delight in my volume.

"I can hardly express to you how highly I appreciate the 'Nights,' the first two volumes of which are at hand. The work is interesting, too, and permits another edition."

"September 26th.

"I have been devouring your first volume of the 'Nights,' and cannot tell you how much I enjoyed the book, and how anxiously I am looking for the next volume."

Edward Peacock, Bottesford Manor, Brigg, October 3rd, 1885.

"I have read every word of the first volume of Captain Burton's 'Arabian Nights,' and, as I am not an Arabic scholar, am very grateful to him for having given us an English version."

INDEX.

A Abana, river, i. 187, 484, 512 Abans, the, i. 202, 217 Abbazia, ii. 354, 355, 358 Abdallee, ii. 95 Abd Al-Majid, Sultan, i. 233 Abd el Aziz, ii. 544 Abd el Kadir, i. 19, 20, 180, 237, 470, 485; his history, 486; a Sufi, 551; meeting held at the house of, 552; and the Christian converts, 563: faithful to Lady Burton, 588; his death, ii. 247 Abd el Karim Matar, i. 549-551; his death, 556 Abdo, ii. 60 Abdullah the Bushiri, Burton's experiences as, i. 155-158, 170 Abdullah Effendi, chief of the Ulema at Damascus, i. 469 Abdullah Muhtásib, history of, ii. 516 Abdullah bin Nasib, a friend in need, i. 288, 313 Abercrombie, ii. 597 Aberdare, Lord, at the Geographical Congress at Venice, ii. 222, 223 Abernethy, ii. 233 Abingdon, i. 77; Sundays at, 78 Abraham, Walter, note from, i. 182 Abú Diráj, ii. 606 Abyssinia, a royal salute in, i. 208 Acanny gold, fine quality of, i. 368 Accra, i. 371 Adelsberg Caves, the, ii. 26, 124, 347, 377, 378 Aden, i. 201, 328; local jealousies at, 198; ii. 60, 561 Adige, river, ii. 2 Adye, Sir John, ii. 310 Afghan War, the, i. 94, 95; end of the, 99, 137; 1838-39, ii. 535 Afghanistan, our policy in, ii. 538, 539 Africa, Burton and Speke's expedition to, i. 257-327, 464, 465; ii. 38, 421-426, 567-577; differences between them, i. 312-316, 389; ii. 14; Colonel Grant's letter on, 421; Lady Burton's reply, 422-426 ——, explorers in the nineteenth century, i. 271; qualifications necessary for, 287; should go as traders, 300; troubles of, 291, 302 ——, food in West, ii. 264 ——, gold in West, and Burton's notes on, i. 361-374; ii. 178, 179, 224, 227, 230 ——, lakes in, authorities confused the, i. 299 ——, map of, sketch of, i. 254 ——, East, natives of, Burton's account of the, i. 260; ii. 578, 580; suicide amongst the, 581; marriage amongst the, 581, 582; no constructive powers, 582; deficient in morality, 583; savage rudeness of, 584, 585; language of the, 585; religion of the, 585, 586; superstitions of the, 586 ——, native porters in, i. 265, 266; ii. 571 ——, native tribes in, Batua, i. 367; Botonga, gold-washing tribes of, 366; Galla, 260; Kafir, 260; Kisáwáhili, ii. 583; Lake, i. 300; Masai, 260, 261, 263; Mnyanwezi, falsehoods of the, ii. 579; Somal, i. 260; Wabuha, 300: Wadigo, 262; Waganda, ordeal amongst the, ii. 587; Wagogo (Wamasai), i. 289; Wáhha, 300; Wahuma (Wamasai), 321; Wahumba, 286, 287, 289; Wajiji, 300; an account of their country, 306; Wakamba, 260; Wakaránga, 300, 363 n.; Wakaguru, 284; Wakimbu, 297; Wakwati, 289; ordeal of meat in the, ii. 587; Wakwivi, i. 284; Wamasai, 318; Wamrina, 292; Waníka, 260, 261; Wanyamwezi, the donkey of the, 282, 289; the Caravan, 291, 292, 297, 363 n.; non-payment of porters of the, ii. 422, 424; will not enter a house, 582; voracity of the, 583; trial by poison among the, 587; Warori, i. 325; Warudi, 321; Warundi, a warlike tribe, 303; Wasoga, 318; Wasagara Mbumi, 285; Wasakuma, 319; Wasawahili, Caravan of free men belonging to the, 291; Waségeju, 262; Wasembára, 262; Washenzy, 262; Wasumbára, 260, 263; Watatúru, 289, 300; Watúta, 298, 300; a warlike tribe, 306; Wavínza, 300, 307; Wazarámo, a fierce tribe, 292, 300; trial by ordeal amongst the, ii. 587; Wazegura, i. 263; a village of the, 268; trial by ordeal amongst the, ii. 587 Africa, scenery in, i. 284 ——, steamers in 1863, i. 376 ——, wild men in, i. 267 Afzal Khan, ii. 522, 538 Agbome, capital of Dahomè, i. 381 Agha Khan Mahallati, i. 145; ii. 76 Agnosticism, Burton's, i. 546 Agra, i. 117 Agrippa, Cornelius, ii. 146 Aguilar, Mrs. D', i. 68, 84 Ahmed el Sahhár, visions of Christ vouchsafed to, i. 557, 558 Ahmed Khan, ii. 478, 479 Ahriman, ii. 472 Aigle, ii. 361 Aimée, Mdlle., i. 439 Airey, General, i. 229 Akabah, Gulf of, ii. 55, 126 Akim, gold in, i. 368, 371 Akkas, ii. 123, 124; illustration of the, 123 Akrabeh, i. 525 Aláh district, i. 515 Albania, the coast of, ii. 117; the future of, 511, 547, 552 Albatross, i. 99 Alber, Baron D', ii. 53 Alcazar in Brazil, i. 439 Aleppo, i. 525; inscription at, 526 Alexandretta, i. 594 Alexandria, Burton goes from, to Cairo as a dervish, i. 171; school for native girls in, ii. 79; Burton attacked and robbed in, 177-179; City of, 594-596; bombardment of, 237; police in, 597 Alfieri, ii. 503 Alford, Lady Marian, a kind friend, i. 379; a pleasant entertainment given by, 593; ii. 135, 249, 331; her death, 356 Algiers, ii. 391; the City of, 393 Ali Abdullah, ii. 61 Ali bin Nasir, i. 260 Alison, Mr., i. 231, 243 Allen, Mr. Heron, ii. 296, 329 Allen's Indian Mail on Burton, i. 182 Alligators at Pangany, i. 263 Ally Sloper sent a diploma to Lady Burton for her "Arabian Nights," ii. 344; sent one to Sir Richard, 345 Alma, battle of, i. 228 Alps, Carnian, ii. 15 Alvarez attempts to destroy the body of St. Francis Xavier, ii. 111 Amayr bin Said el Shaksi, i. 321 Amazons of Dahomè, i. 383 Amberley, Lord, on supernaturalism, ii. 142, 144 Amir el Kebir, ii. 86; his place, 89 Ampthill, Lord, i. 231 Anatolia, ii. 551 Anchieta of Brazil, ii. 461 Anderson, H. T., letters to Burton on behalf of the Government, ii. 565-567 Andrassy, Count, ii. 501, 546 Angst, Mr., ii. 400 Animals, in Baroda, i. 109; at Pangany, 262-264; near the Usagara Mountains, 283, 288 Anjar, i. 506 Antar represents Julius Cæsar in Syria, i. 523 Anthropological discoveries, Burton's, ii. 27 —— Institute, Burton lectures at the, ii. 226; Burton Vice-President of the, 311 —— Society, dinner to Burton, given by the, 1878, i. 398 Anti-Libanus, i. 498-501, 506; a second visit to the, 520-524; incompleteness of maps of the, 520 Antommarchi, cast of Napoleon ascribed to, i. 6, 7, 9, 10 Ants, in the desert, i. 203, 265, 285; poisonous, 288, 308; in Brazil, 428 Antwerp, i. 84 Appo, Chief, re gold in the Nánwá Valley, ii. 230, 231 Aquilea, Museum at, ii. 30 Arab, merchant, Burton disguised as an, i. 200, 201; women, 202, 472; merchants in Africa, 289; hospitality, 290, 309 n.; travellers in the East, 291; accounts of Lake Nyanza, 317; chiefs at Mgeta, 325; at Lagos, 359; dances, 505; tents (illustration), ii. 387; Burton's account of the, 579; treatment of slaves in Zanzibar, 588; merchants ruined by their slaves, 589 Arab Haddídin tribe, i. 525 Arábi, ii. 597, 598, 600, 601; his history, 602 Arabia, gold in, i. 362 "Arabian Nights," Burton commences his edition of the, ii. 274, 296; earlier editions of the, 283, 284; lines by Swinburne to Burton on his edition of the, 286; Burton's note on the, 285; Press notices of the, 287-290, 292, 617-627; his own notes to the, 291, 292; published, 294, 438, 440; difficulties in preparing the, 321, 323; profit on the publication of the, 338, 442; Lady Burton's edition of the, 357 Arabic Library at Damascus, i. 481 Arabic unexpectedly spoken in London, i. 595 Arafat, i. 177, 185; ii. 467 Arbuthnot, Mr. F. T., ii. 61, 62, 415 Architecture, Bashan, in Syria, i. 515 Argélés, spring in, i. 58; Society in, 59 Argentine Republic, Burton visits the, i. 453 Argonaut, article on Burton from the, ii. 268 Argyll, Duke of, i. 76 Arif Effendi, a Christian convert in Syria, i. 562 Aristotle, i. 191 n.; on theanthropism, ii. 141, 469 Arlberg, a dangerous journey over the, ii. 399 Armanika, Sultan of Karágwah, i. 310 Armenia, ii. 548, 556 Arnauts, the, ii. 592 Arnold, Dr., i. 76, 80 Arnold, Sir Edwin and Lady, ii. 294; death of Lady, 376 Arthur, Colonel Sir George, i. 102 Arundell, Mr. Henry, approves of his daughter's engagement and marriage, i. 340, 343; his hospitality, ii. 160, 257; his illness, 293, 297; his politics, 298; his death, 316, 322 Arundell, Mrs., her children's esteem for her, i. 332 n.; opposes her daughter's engagement to Burton, 340; her illness, 330, 332, 337, 341, 595; receives Captain and Mrs. Burton, 343; her death, 597 Arundell, Jack, death of, i. 598 Arundell, Lord, i. 331 Ashantee, gold in, i. 368, 372; necessary precautions in fighting the natives of, ii. 20 Ashburton, Lady, ii. 21, 135 Asses in Africa, i. 281, 282; suffer from the ants, 288 Athenæum, Mrs. Burton's letters on Burton's share in the discoveries in Africa, i. 465; lines to R. Burton on the "Arabian Nights" from the, ii. 286 Atneh, i. 472 Aubertin, Mr., i. 420, 425, 434, 436; ii. 135; in Trieste, 250, 275, 276 Auckland, Lord, i. 99, 131 Aumale, Duc d', i. 347 Aurungzeb, second royal possessor of the Koh-i-noor, ii. 94 Australia, gold in, i. 367; horse-breeding, 541 Austria, a child-murder in, i. 22 n.; excursions in, ii. 167; honour shown to Sir Richard by, 416-418; politics in, 497, 498; political health of, 1877, 500, 501; Panslavism in, 501, 509; occupation of Bosnia by, 501, 545, 546, 554; wiser policy of, 507; police in, 508; a Triregno, 509, 546; occupation of Herzegovina, 546, 554; a great Slav power, 546; her opponents, 555 ——, Emperor Joseph I., ii. 550 ——, Emperor of, ii. 24; his popularity, 25; his stud, 30; entertains the English fleet, 217; at Trieste, 239; visits Dalmatia, 546, 555 ——, Empress of, her loveliness, ii. 24, 25; gives Mrs. Burton her portrait, 365 Austria, on board the, ii. 132 Austria Hungary, Home rule in, ii, 304, 307 Autobiography, a short, by R. Burton, i. 151-158 Ayesha, ii. 77 Aylonda Valley, the, i. 204 Aytoun, Mr., ii. 530 Ayyah Shirdon, the, i. 216 Azoff, Sea of, i. 228 B B's, the literary, 1878, ii. 135 Ba'albak, i. 500, 501 Bacon on death, ii. 581 Baddeley, Mr. St. Clair, ii. 236 Badger, Dr. Percy, ii. 162, 356 Badli system in Sind, i. 142 Baggs, Mr., i. 371 Bagnières de Bigorres, i. 55 Bagshaw, Robert, i. 4, 93, 231 Bahia, i. 418 Bahrain Talpur, legend of the murder of, ii. 491 Bahr-el-Abiad, i. 313 n. Bahret el Huleli, Waters of Merom, i. 509, 543. Bain, Mr., i. 296 n. Baines, Tuckey, i. 30 Bajee Ráo adopted Nana Sahib, ii. 83; his war with the English, 84; pagodas in his palace, 84 Baker, Mrs., Burton's grandmother, i. 23, 26, 27, 35, 67 Baker, Georgina, i. 19, 24, 25, 31, 67 Baker, Dr. Grenfell, joins Burton at Trieste, ii. 351; has an unpleasant journey, 352, 361, 381; with Burton, 394, 406, 413, 415; rescues a robin, 409; at Sir Richard's funeral, 417 Baker, Richard, jun., i. 16, 23 Baker, Sir Samuel, i. 457; his discoveries, ii. 39; rewards given to, 47, 48; on Rauf Pasha, 196, 197 Baker, Colonel Valentine, ii. 310; death of, 354 Balaclava, i. 229, 230 Baldeza, Gonçales, i. 362 Ballarat, s.s., the, ii. 310 Balliol College, i. 1840, 80 Balzac, i. 328, 329 Balzeny, the, i. 220, 221 Bancroft, Mrs., ii. 297; at Davos, 404 Bandora, journey from Bombay to, ii. 62; Society at, 62 Banias, i. 509 Banyans, civility of the, i. 277 Barada, river of Damascus, i. 498 Baraguay d'Hilliers, General, i. 234 Barbacena, i. 440 Baretto, Francis, voyage of, sixteenth century, i. 363-366 Barham House, i. 15 Bari and Isa, poem by Burton, ii. 67 Baroch, i. 138 Baroda, 1842, sport in, i. 109; the government of, 113, 114; English Society in, 1842, 114; insects at, 122; City of, 136; races at, 137; in the rainy season, 113, 137; gold found near, 1840, 365; Burton's visit to, 1876, ii. 63 ——, Gaikwar of, government of the, i. 106, 134; sport at the Court of the, 136; his treatment of peasants who found gold, 365 n. Baronetcy in the Burton family, i. 11, 13, 14 Barra, river, gold in the, i. 372, 422 Barras, description of Zumbo by, i. 365 Bashi-Bazouks, meaning of the word, i. 239; in a state of siege, 244, 245 Bashir Talkur, experiments on cures by magic, ii. 150, 151 Bassa, Burton's visits to, i. 439 Bassein, ii. 100, 102 Bat, note on Captain Burton from the, ii. 300; note on his pension from the, 328; reviews of the "Arabian Nights" from the, 617, 624 Bates, H. W., i. 428; note to Burton on the Geographical Congress in Venice, ii. 223 Bath, meeting of the British Association, i. 389, 405; ii. 425, 426 Batoum, ii. 548, 556 Battaglia, excursions from, ii. 36, 37 Battus, i. 238, 241 Bayless, Mr., i. 460 Bayonet Exercise, his book on, i. 165, 166; ii. 11, 45 Beaconsfield, Lord, i. 534 n.; on great men, 571; at Hatfield, ii. 134; views on evolution, 142; death of, 212; a pilgrimage to his grave, 236, 498; on Trieste, 555 Beatrice, Princess, ii. 236 Beatson, General, i. 230, 232, 235; his career, 236; Burton on his Staff, 236, 240; ii. 12, 45; his letter to Lord Stratford, i. 239; his character, 239; leaves the Dardanelles, 245; unfairly treated, 246, 247; end of the trial of, 248; his death, 595 Beatson's Horse, i. 239, 240; triumph of discipline amongst, 245 Beaumont, Lady Margaret, ii. 357 Beauséjour, i. 18 Beaver, Captain Philip, i. 350 Bedawi, in the desert, i. 173, 175, 202, 205, 472-476; the hill tribes of the, 493, 494; blood-feud of the, 496; women, 521; and Fellahín, 526; camel-drivers, ii. 57; their unusual conduct in the murder of Palmer, ii, 612 Bedawin Wuld Ali tribe, a visit to the, i. 512 Bedr Beg wounded, i. 494 Beke, Dr., i. 365, 367; on the Lunar Mountains, 368; 406; on the Nile, 408 Belgians, the King of the, sent for Burton, ii. 176 Bells in England, 1698, i. 77 Beloch chief, Burton's account of a visit to a, ii. 480-495 —— mercenaries, i. 243, 265, 269, 272; a —— tea-party, ii. 485; dinner, 487, 488 Belzoni, death of, i. 386 Benin, Burton's notes on, i. 360 Benjamin, tomb of, i. 528 Bennett Edwards, Mrs., on marriage, ii. 374 Bentinck, Lord W., i. 17 Berberah, i. 198; value of, 199; Burton at, 217, 219; Burton attacked at, 220-223; 368; the Egyptians in, ii. 60; 561, 562 Berberi tribes, the, i. 214 Berkeley, Major, i. 265; ii. 139, 465 Berne, ii. 360; a unique Swiss sword at, 375 Bernhardt, Mdlle. Sara, ii. 224 Berosus on Abraham, ii. 470 Bertoldstein, ii. 121 Bertrand, Count, i. 6, 8-10 Bertrand, Mme., and the cast of Napoleon, i. 6, 7, 9, 10 Besant, Mr. Walter, on Palmer, ii. 609, 611 Bethábara, i. 542 Beust, Count, ii. 500 Beyrout, i. 573 Bhagi, the Bedawin, i. 201 Bhendi Bazar, Bombay, i. 100; ii. 61, 69; mixture of races in the, 101 Bhit, ii. 493 n.; ode to the men of, 493 Bhugang, Burton's favourite game-cock, i. 145; death of, 159; ii. 66; and the cock-fight, 477 Bianconi, i. 397 Bibi, the, i. 135 Bible, on slavery, i. 358; on Tadmor, 475; quotations from the Exodus, ii. 209 n.; Ecclesiastes, 473 Bight of Biafra, i. 385 Bird, Miss Alice, ii. 315 Bird, Dr. G., i. 121, 122; the Burtons marry from his house, 342; 363, 598; ii. 161; in Venice, 174, 175, 332, 333 Birds, in Baroda, i. 109, 110; Burton saved in the desert by a, 215, 515; in the Usagara Mountains, 283; near the Makata, 285; in Brazil, 426 Birnie, Mr. R., i. 10 Birt, Mrs. Louisa, ii. 211 Bishop, Miss, visits Mrs. Burton in Trieste, ii. 189-271, 253; meets her at Maríenbad, 275 Bismarck, i. 32; ii. 318, 497; in Cavour's place, 504; on Italy and Trieste, 504, 556 Bitumen in Syria, i. 509 Black and White, note on Burton's tomb from, ii. 419 Blake, Dr., ii. 156 Blake, Dr. Carter, ii. 29 Blanc, Louis, i. 347 Blois, R. Burton's early life in, i. 33, 35 Bludan, village of, i. 498 Blyth, Mr. E., i. 145 Bodleian Library, Burton tries to borrow a manuscript from the, ii. 323 Boileau, Ensign, i. 97 Bokhara, ii. 538, 542 ——, Amir of, i. 114 Bologna, ii. 282 Bolton, Sir J., ii. 331 Bomba, King of Naples, and the cholera, i. 51 Bombay, 1842, i. 100, 101, 120, 129; routes from Baroda to, 120, 124, 132, 138; Society in, 1842, 102-104, 130-133; Burton's visit to, 1876, ii. 59, 61, 97, 98, 100 Bombay Native Infantry, 18th, Burton's brother officers in the, i. 106, 107, 110, 123, 134; moved to Sind, 124-126; sent to Gharra, 128; marches to Bahawalpur, 147 ——, 29th, ii. 69 ——, 30th, ii. 69 Bonnat, Mr., ii. 231 Bonwick, Mr., ii. 140 Boomerang, note on horse-breeding in Australia from the, i. 541 Booth, General, ii. 409 Bora, wind in Trieste, ii. 5, 18, 175, 176, 340, 509 Borneo, diamonds in, ii. 529, 530 Bosman, Mr., letters on gold, i. 368-368 Bosnia, occupied by Austria, ii. 501, 502 n., 506, 546, 554; wealth of, 510 Bosquet, General, i. 229 Bouira, ii. 391 Boulogne, in 1850, i. 165; a cold journey, ii. 51 Bourbaki, i. 241 Bourke, Mr. Terence, ii. 388 Boville, Mr., i. 247, 247 n. Bowditch, i. 317 Boyd, Mr., i. 134 Braid, Dr. John, and hypnotism, ii. 144, 145 Bramwell, Baron, i. 247 Brassy, Lieutenant, i. 143 Brazil, slaves in, i. 422; Mrs. Burton's illness in, 423; storms in, 423, 429; social life in, 423, 426; music in, 426; history of, 426, 427; drawbacks to life in, 427-429; aborigines of, 435; native food in, 436; ii. 264; elections in, i. 436; a holiday expedition in, 440; gems in the Highlands of, ii. 529; iron-making in 533, 534 ——, i. Emperor and Empress of, 437, 439; ii. 358 ——, Imperial family of, i. 437-439 Brazza, De, ii. 237 Brenner Pass, the, ii. 2, 321 Brett, Brigadier-General, i. 245 Brett, W. J., lines on Sir R. Burton by, ii. 433 Brigham Young, i. 338 Bright, John, i. 235 Brighton, ii. 135 Brindisi Cathedral, ii. 382 Brinjaris, Hindu tribe of, ii. 82 Broadbent, Dr., ii. 265 Brock, Mr., Vice-Consul at Trieste, ii. 3, 168; celebrates his fiftieth year of Consular service, 189; retires from his post, 241 Broome, Sir F. Napier, ii. 405 Broughton, Andrew, ii. 369 Brown, Rev. Mr., i. 371 Browning, Mrs. E. Barrett, i. 63; lines on death by, ii. 416 Browning, R., lines by, i. 329 Bruges, i. 84 Brugsch Bey, ii. 599 Brun, Mr. Malte, i. 365 n. Brun Rollet, M., i. 317 Brydone, Dr., i. 94 Bubu, i. 108, 109, 135 Buchanan, Rev. Dr. Claude, worried the Inquisitors at Goa, ii. 112 Buckboard, an American carriage, i. 429 Buckle, Mr., i. 347, 357; effect of his "History of Civilization," 491; his grave, 492 Buda Pest, ii. 505; like Dublin, 506 Buddha, i. 188 n.; refused to recognize Ishwara, ii. 469 Buddhism, ii. 463, 466, 468; three ages of, 472 Buddhist temple at Karla, ii. 83 Buez, Dr., on the spread of cholera, ii. 513, 514 Buist, Dr., editor of the Bombay paper, i. 118, 132, 145, 199; ii. 533, 560 Bulak Museum, ii. 599 Bulgaria, ii. 547, 552 Bull-fight in Portugal, i. 416, 457 Bull-terrier, i. 96 Bullocks in Gujarat, i. 110 Bülow, Mme. von, ii. 50 Bunsen, Chevalier, i. 419 Burckhardt, i. 169, 174 Burke, i. 80 Burke, Sir Bernard, on Captain Burton's pedigree, i. 397 Burnaby, Col. F., death of, ii. 279 Burns, lines from, i. 249 Burns, Alexander, i. 94 Burton, Captain, murdered, i. 338 Burton genealogy, i. 2, 3; family, history of the, 11-14 Burton, Bishop of Killala, i. 2 Burton, Rev. Edward, i. 2, 4, 13 Burton, Edward, i. 15, 29, 38; in Pisa, 63; at a parsonage, 67, 88; at Cambridge, 88 Burton, Edward, in Africa, ii. 149 Burton, Mrs. Edward, i. 2; her courage, 24 Burton, Francis, i. 4; takes a cast of Napoleon, 6; fate of the cast, 9, 104; his death, 11 Burton, Hagar, and Sir Richard, i. 251-253, 255 Burton, Isabel, Lady, press criticisms of her earlier works, i. vi.; her reverence for Sir Richard, ix.-xiv., ii. 257-259; her theory of a man's nature, ix.; ii. 257; goes to Paris with the relics of Napoleon, i. 11, 375; received anonymous letters respecting the baronetcy in the Burton family, 13, 14; at Boulogne, 165, 166; first sees Captain Burton, 166, 167; second meeting with him, 249; he proposes to her, 250; again meets Captain Burton, 329, 330; receives a message from Zanzibar, 329; her illness, 338; goes to Burton Constable, 339; joins Burton in London, 340; her marriage, 340, 342; forgiven by her mother, 343, 344; her early married life, 344; visit to Fryston, 347, 348; goes to Court, 345; her occupations during her husband's first absence, 375; her first voyage to Africa, 376-379; at Madeira 378, 379; at Teneriffe, 379-381; visits paid in 1864 by, 395-397 appeals to Lord Russell to give Captain Burton another Consulate, 415; in Lisbon, 416, 417; her fear of cockroaches, 416; her return to England, 417; starts for Brazil, 418; has fever in Rio, 419; makes a home in Brazil, 422; in search of provisions in Brazil, 434; learns fortune-telling in Brazil, 435; her escape from a shark, 437; with the Imperial family, 437; drives an engine, 440; a holiday in Brazil, 440; sprains her foot, 446; sends the priest to the slave hospital, 447; a lonely ride in Brazil, 447, 448; her return to Rio, 448, 449; her second sight when mesmerized by Captain Burton, 450, 452; returns to London, 453; tries to work the Iporanga mines in London, 453, 454; her adventure at Bahia, 454; her work in London, 455; meets her husband at Southampton, 458; visits Shrewsbury and France, 458, 459; her journey to Turin, 460, 461; her work in London when Captain Burton went to Damascus, 463; leaves Europe for Damascus, 467, 468; her ride through the desert, 472-479; her life in Damascus, 481, 499, 500; her receptions at Damascus, 485; her defence of Lady Ellenborough, 487; prepares to defend the house at Damascus, 504; her pets, 505; her account of the warning sent to her husband, 518, 519; refuses bribery, 572; her account of Syria, 573; last days in Syria, universally regretted, 585-589; at Beyrout, 589; goes to the Foreign Office, 589; loses her brother, 598; in Germany, ii. 1, 2; in Venice, 2, 3; her boxes robbed, 4; her religion, 7; in Rome, 21; in Vienna, 23, 24; went to England, 41; her work in London, 42; tries to get a K.C.B. for Captain Burton, 45-47; on a pilgrim-ship from Jeddah, 58; in Bombay, 61; at a Hindu wedding, 80; studies Portuguese documents at Goa, 108, 110; determines to leave Goa, 114, 115; studies Italian, 118, 119; goes into retreat at Gorizia, 120, 243; sent for by the Count de Chambord, 121; her life at Opçina whilst R. Burton was in Midian, 127; joins Burton in Egypt, 128; waiting for her husband in Suez, 129; incivility of lady passengers P. and O. to, 130, 131; in England, 1878, 134, 135; kind friends in Dublin, 133; her visits in England, 1878, 134; speech upon Spiritualism, 152, 153; meets with an accident on her way to Trieste, 165, 166; her efforts for the prevention of cruelty to animals, in Trieste, 174, 225, 243, 427; her friends in Trieste, 174; goes to London, 1880, 177; her kindness to a monk at Opçina, 185; visits Ober-Ammergau, 186-188; her estimate of Lord Beaconsfield, 212; entertains the British Squadron at Opçina, 1881, 215; 1883, 251; her note to Truth on Captain Burton's wounds in Berberah, 215; goes to Veldes, 219; returns to Vienna, 221; visits Maríenbad, 221, 238; in 1884, 275; summoned before the tribunal at Trieste, 225; in the fencing school, 226; returns to England, 226; in London, 1882, 236; her letter to Vanity Fair, 239; gives a masked ball, 247; under Count Mattei, 247-250; changes her house, 250-252; bitten by a scorpion, 253; her efforts to obtain some recognition of her husband's services, 256; her consideration for him, 258, 259; in camp, 266; her experiences as a Consul's wife, 277, 278; her renewed illness, 279; visits Bologna, 281; her speech at St. James's Hall on Protection for Animals, 293; her father's illness and death, 293, 316; voyage to Gibraltar, 310; in Tangier, 312, 314; has a fall at Naples, 313; in Genoa, 315; journey from Trieste to Rome, 315; pleasant journey through Austria to England, 321; visits friends in Scotland, 1888, 328; in London, 329; receives a diploma for her "Arabian Nights" from Ally Sloper, 344; has influenza, 376; picture of her home painted at Trieste, 377; has peritonitis, 396, 397; tries to induce Burton to give up his post, 401, 407, 408; at her husband's side when he died, 414; had been left for dead as a girl, 414 n.; her feelings about death, 416; meets the remains of Sir Richard at Liverpool, 429; receives a pension from the Queen, 430; at the funeral, 432, 433; goes to a convent, 434; a sad year, 434; her note about the "Scented Garden," 438-441; her husband's trust in her judgment, 440, 442, 443 n.; her devotion to Sir Richard, 449 Burton, Isabel, Lady, books written by, i. 478, 548; ii. 454; on Syria, 32, 44, 45, 56; her edition of the "Arabian Nights," 285, 286, 292, 330, 357; on Arabia, Egypt, etc., 60, 162, 317-321 ——, letters written by, to her mother on her engagement, i. 332-337; on Dr. Livingstone and the Nile, 461-466; on the Tiber, ii. 22; to Sir R. Murchison, asking for a K.C.B. for Captain Burton, 45-47, 324; about Spiritualism, 158, 159; to the Globe on gold in Midian, 166; to the Medical Times on Monfalcone, 189, 190; to Truth, July 7th, 1881, 215; to Vanity Fair, 239; to Ally Sloper on receiving a diploma for the "Arabian Nights," 345; to the Morning Post on the report of Sir Richard's illness, 398; to Colonel Grant, an answer to his accusations of Sir Richard, 422-426; to the Echo, about the "Scented Garden," 438 ——, poems by, on Palgrave's bust of Speke, i. 390-392; to R. Burton, 603; sonnet to Camoens, ii. 181; on Burton's "Arabian Nights," 291 Burton, Maria (Lady Stisted), i. 3 n., 15; her childhood, 20; her youth, 29 Burton, Colonel J. Netteville, i. 2; his appearance, 3; his character, 3; his loyalty to Queen Caroline, 17; in France, 19, 54; ill health of, 34, 35, 60; duels fought by, 41; tries chemistry, 45; early life of, 49, 50; break up of the family of, 65, 66; his death, 308 Burton, Mrs. J. N. (Richard's mother), i. 2, 3; mismanagement of her children, 22, 29; her ill health, 26, 34 Burton, Richard, his religion, i. xi.-xiii, 123, 347, 545; ii. 445-448; his modesty, i. vii.; ii. 267; his character, i. xi.-xiii., 20, 21, 328 n., 348, 396, 397, 460, 490, 491, 599, 604; ii. 136, 257-260, 263, 266; his family history, i. 2; his parents, 2, 3, 22, 29, 50; his appearance as a young man, 3 n.; as a child, 29; in 1850, 166, 167; as an Oriental, 170; after his African expeditions, 1859, i. 330, 331; ii. 425; in 1877, 6; his birth, i. 15, 252; his early recollections, 15; childhood in Tours, 17-25; sent to school, 20; return to England, 27; his school life at Richmond, 28-31; his grandparents, 23, 24; his return to France, 31, 32; in 1836, 54; in Blois, 33; his boyhood in Italy, 35-53; learns music, 38; his skill at chess, 45, 46; ii. 323; his education in Italy, i. 49; his fencing, 34, 49, 73, 74, 86, 164; education in Tau, 57; an escapade in Bau, 58; studies in Pisa, 60, 61; early love affairs, 62; at Schinznach, 66, 67; his dislike to England, 67; his education tried and found wanting, 68; at Oxford, 69; at Trinity College, 70; learns Arabic, 77; takes rooms in Maddox Street, 79; his system of learning languages, 81; his second term at Oxford, 82; his views of Oxford classics, 83; in Germany, 85-88; his dislike to Oxford, 88, 89; is rusticated and leaves, 90, 91, 153; enters the Indian army, 92, 94, 153; learns Hindustani, 93, 154; starts for India, 16, 97; date of his commission, 97 n.; his first voyage to India, 98-100; in Bombay, 100-105, 130-133, 143; joins his regiment, 106, 134; at Gujarat, 106, 107; his brother officers, 106, 134; at Baroda, 106-120; epigram by, 116; his work with the regiment, 107, 108; learns Indian sword-practice and riding, 119, 134, 135; visits Bombay, 120; passes the exam. in Hindustani, 121, 137, 154; continues his study of native languages, 122, 123; is appointed Interpreter to the regiment, 123, 138 n., 154; nicknamed the 'White Nigger,' 123, 144; passes the exam. in Guzerattee, 123, 138; joins the Catholic Church, 123, 347; meets Captain Scott, 125; at Karáchi, 126, 127, 140, 154; at Gharra, 128, 142, 155; passes in Maharátta, 129-143; his reminiscences written for Mr. Hitchman, 130-151; appointed to the Sind survey, 143, 145, 150, 155; tries falconry, 143; on the Staff of Sir C. Napier, 144, 145, 155, 156, 161; his disguises as an Oriental in India, 144, 147, 148, 155-158, 160, 170; in Arabia, 169-171, 173, 182; as a Persian, 183; 199, 200; ii. 13, 623; tricks played by, i. 146; ii. 65; on the Fulallee river, i. 147, 157; attacked by ophthalmia, 148, 162; goes to the Neilgherries, 148; visits Goa, 148; at Ootacamund, 148, 149; studies Telugu and Arabic, 149; passes the exam. in Persian, 149; returns to Sind, 150; studies Eastern religions, 150; his autobiography, 150-158; his proficiency in Indian languages, 154, 155, 159, 162; his experiments with monkeys, 160; his experiment with a Sányasi, 160, 161; applies for service in the Sihk War, 162; leaves India, 163; returns to England, 164; goes to Boulogne, 165; his reward for the treatise on Bayonet Exercise, 166; his flirtations, 167, 168, 393; his visit to Mecca, 170; ii. 301; leaves Alexandria as a Pathan, i. 171; his account of the journey to Mecca and residence there, 171-179; crosses the desert, 172; leaves Medinah, 174; travels with a Caravan, 175; in Mecca, 175-178; ii. 301; at Arafat, i. 177; goes to Jeddah, 178; leaves El Hajaz, 179; in Damascus, 179, 180; at Kurrachee, 182; his friends in India, 183; his knowledge of languages, 183; ii. 9, 13, 47, 302; he determines to visit Harar, i. 198; his views upon Berberah, 199; his account of the journey to Harar disguised as an Arab, 200-205; with the Somals, 203; ii. 13; in Harar, i. 207-213; leaves Harar, 213; writes a grammar of the Harari language, 214; crosses the desert, 215; reaches Berberah, 217; leaves Berberah for Aden, 218; returns to Berberah, 219; attacked in Berberah, 219, 220; ii. 13, 215; his ill health after the skirmish at Berberah, i. 226; volunteers for the Crimea, 224, 226; starts for the Crimea, 227; at Balaclava, 229; called at the Embassy at Therapia, 231; goes to the Dardanelles, 235, 244; on Beatson's Staff, 240, 241; ii. 9, 12; his plan for the relief of Kars, i. 241; his wish to assist Circassia, 244; implicated in General Beatson's disgrace, 245, 246; returns to England, 246; at General Beatson's trial, 247; his ill luck with his chiefs, 247 n.; proposes to Miss I. Arundell, 250; his friendship with Cardinal Wiseman, 250; his affinity with the gypsy race, 251-253; at Trieste, 252; his farewell to his betrothed before starting for Africa, 255; his first expedition with Speke to Central Africa (from his notes), i. 257-278; ii. 421, 423, 560; at Zanzibar, i. 258; at Pemba, 259; at Wazin, 261; at Tanga, 261, 262; at Pangany; 262, 263; starts for Usumbara, 264; at Chogway, 264, 274-277; leaves Mount Tongway, 267; reaches Kohoday, 268; leaves Fuga, 272; fever at Chogway, 274-276, 278; his passports, 279; starts for Tanganyika, 279; his second journey in Africa, 281-326; fever at Dut'humi, 281, 282; at Zungomero, 282; loses his instruments, 284; in the Usagára Mountains, 286; marches through the Mdáburu jungle, 288; reaches Kazeh, 290; his journey from Unyanyembe to Ujiji, 291-299; his journey to Eastern Wilyankuru, 293; separates from Speke, 293; meets Speke at Msene, 294; ill at Kajjanjeri, 295; reaches Lake Tanganyika, 298; at Ujiji, 299-302; succeeds in getting some boats, 302; his voyage on Laka Tanganyika, 302, 303; the Pioneer of African travel, 304; ii. 39; receives news from England, i. 305; leaves Lake Tanganyika, 306; his return journey to Unyamyembe, 306-308; his illness in Kazeh, 308; his intended route to the sea-coast, 309; forwards reports to R. G. S., London, 311; his differences with Speke, 312; his explanation of Speke's mistakes, 314; his opinion of Speke, 315, 316; is hampered for funds, 320; his return to the sea-coast, 321, 326; nurses Speke at Hanga, 322; commences the return march, 323; reaches Ugogi Dhun, 324; receives an official "wigging," 324, 325; his welcome at Konduchi, 326; Speke leaves him, 327; he leaves Zanzibar, 327; his ill health after his return from Africa, 330, 331; his betrothed gives an epitome of his life and character, 333-335; visits the Salt Lake City, 337-339; his marriage with Miss Isabel Arundell, 340, 342; appointed Consul of Fernando Po (West Africa), 544, 345; ungratefully treated by the East India Company, 345, 346; ii. 327, 425; his services before he was forty, i. 346; at Fryston, 347, 376; starts for Fernando Po, 348, 349; extent of his first jurisdiction, 350, 385; his treatment of impertinent negroes at his Consulate, 353; his management of captains who did not fulfil their contracts, 355; finds Arabs at Lagos, 359, 360; his notes on Benin, 360; on gold in Africa, 361-374; on native tribes, 363; his return on first leave, 1863, 376; his return to Fernando Po, sent to Dahomè, 381; ii. 6, 7; his account of Dahomè, i. 382, 384; explores the West Coast of Africa, 385; ii. 12, 13; visits Mpangwe, i. 386; sends papers to Fraser's Magazine and lectures in London, 1863, 386; returns to England on leave, 1864, 388, 389; he prepares to meet Speke at Bath, 389; his distress at Speke's death, 389; ii. 426; writes "Stone Talk," i. 393, 395; completes the sketch for Palgrave's bust of Speke, 390; visits Ireland, 395-398; his family and Louis XIV., 397; transferred to Santos, São Paulo, 398; a farewell dinner given to, 398; his speech at the farewell dinner in his honour, 402-404; his theories about the Nile, 404; at Lisbon, 416; he leaves for Brazil, 417; his life in Brazil, 420-424, 436; his journeys in Brazil, 424, 425; obtains a concession for lead-mines in Brazil, 425; finds rubies, 425; his riding tour in Brazil, 441, 442; his account of a mine in Brazil, 444, 445; has a severe illness, 450; a great mesmerist, 450, 451; resigns his Consulate, 453; visits the Argentine Republic, 453; meets the Tichborne Claimant, 453; he invents a carbine pistol, 455, 456; obtains the Consulate of Damascus, 455; goes to Vichy, 458; his visit to Yellalah, 462; his reception in Damascus, 469; his residence in Damascus, 479-485; his method of secret communication with his wife, 471; his love for children, 490, 491; his account of Syria, 492; his account of an excursion to the Libanus, 493-498; his idea of sport, 499; his literary necessities, 499; his method of teaching languages, 499; his determination to protect Damascus in a riot, 503; visits the Druzes, 507, 508; bitten by a scorpion, 511; his account of a trip to Tulul el Safá, 513; his observations at Tulul el Safá, 514; receives a warning from his wife, 516, 517; his letter to the Druzes, with forged copy of the same, 519; visits the Anti-Libanus, 522; first shadow on the life at Damascus, 528, 529; his letter about the Druzes, 529; his explanation of the money-lending system in Damascus, 530, 532; he opposes the usurers, 531-536, 579, 580; his note on the Jews, 533; attacked by Sir F. Goldsmid for his wife's religion, 534; his letter to the Foreign Office, 537; his note about Nazareth, 543; his reverence for devotion in Jerusalem, 544; on the Sházlis, 547, 548; receives a testimonial from the mission in Damascus, 565; recalled from his Consulate, 568, 569; universally regretted, 569; above bribery, 571, 572; his popularity with the Moslems, 572; his services in Damascus, 572; ii. 327; described by an English Mission, i. 577-580; his note on tyranny in Syria, 584, 585; reasons alleged for his recall, 589, 590; at Garswood, 591; goes to Iceland, 591, 598; his account of the Royal Geographical meeting, 594; at a Mansion House dinner, 595; sends plants to the British Museum, 595; wins the action against the Greek Bishop, 596; painted by Sir F. Leighton, 596; ii. 49; his opponents meet with ill luck, i. 596; his return from Iceland, 598; has an operation, 598; goes to Brighton, 599; appointed Consul at Trieste, 597; ii. 328; his plans for the Sházlis, 597; his Eastern career, 606; starts for Trieste, ii. 1; in Venice, 3; at Trieste, 1877, quoted from the World, 4; second article on—from Richards, 13; his note on precautions in fighting the Ashantees, 20; goes to Loretto, 20; goes to Rome, 20, 21; his letter on the overflow of the Tiber, 21, 22; at the Viennese Exhibition, 24; escapes drowning at Karso, 26; his discoveries in Karso, 27; his description of the castellieri in Istria, 28; his expedition up the Schneeberg Mountain, followed by serious illness, 34, 35; his resemblance to Gordon, 42, 43; in London, 1875, 44; his "Divans," 44; tries to patent his "Tonic Bitters," 44; his note on his treatment by the Government, 48, 256; at the Zoo, 48; revisits Oxford, 48; lectures in London, 49; his second visit to Iceland, 50; his friends in England, 50, 51; revisits Tours, 51; leaves England for Boulogne, 51; embarks for a visit to India, 53; dictates his biography, 53; in Bombay, 61-63; his note on the changes at Kotri, 65; his note on the short service system, 66; on the Indian army, 69-75, 76; revisits Mirza Ali Akbar, 79; can never pass a countryman's grave, 80; at Mátháran, 81, 82; at the Karla Caves, 83; at Hyderabad, 85, 86; his ready wit, 104, 333; at Goa, 105-114; his love of native music, 107; leaves India, 115; at Suez, 116; revisits Egypt, 116; returns to Trieste, 117; in Germany, 121, 122; goes to Egypt in search of gold, 122, 125; his ill luck, 123; his travels, 125; his popularity in Egypt, 1878, 131, 132; returns to London, 1878, 133; lectures in Dublin, 133; out of health, 135; his speech at a Spiritualist meeting, 138-151, 155; his views on evolution, 142; his letter on Spiritualism to the Times, 157; his life and friends in London, 1879, 160-163; his translation of a German ghost story, 170-173; his scheme for the Indo-Mediterranean Railway, 176; sent for by the King of the Belgians, 176; returns to Egypt, 1880, 176; his disappointment, 177; attacked and robbed in Alexandria, 177, 178; his note on gold in Midian, 178, 179; his love of silver, 190; preference for cramoisie, 191; his note on slavery in Egypt, 193-210; asked to be appointed Commissioner of Slavery in Egypt, 195, 256, 324; studies bees, 214; at Veldes without leave, 220; at Venice, rudeness of the Geographical Congress, 222, 223; goes to the coast of Guinea, 224; returns to England, 226; lectures before the Anthropological Society, 226; his interest in mining, 227; his note on West Africa, 228; appreciated by the London Press, 229; on mining on the Gold Coast, 230, 231; his letters on the Gold Coast, 232-235; lectures before the Geological Society, 236; an "amateur Consul," 239; begins his "Book of the Sword," 240; interferes with the household, 240, 241; starts in search of Palmer, 242; his difficulty in finding publishers, 243, 445; ill with gout, 244; 1886, 329; takes a dislike to his house, 245, 246; takes a sea-trip, 246; went to Krapina Teplitz, 250; dialogue with his wife, 255; neglected by the Government, 256, 289; his reserve, 257; receives a curious letter in Syria, 260; his mode of study, 260; his aversion to fallen women, 261; quotation from his journal, "on men," 261, 262; on critics, 262; his musical tastes, 263; his room, 263; his clothes, 263, 264; his taste in food, 264, 265; his daily life, 265, 266; his views on cremation, 267; his trust in his wife, 267; his handwriting, 268; painted by Madame Gutmansthal, 168, 268; De Leon's opinion of him, 268, 269; description from Life of —— in his study at Trieste, 269; his prescience of things, 270; taken ill at Opçina, 271-274; his Trieste doctor, 273; began his translation of the "Arabian Nights," 274; in Vienna, 1884, 275; at Roitsch-Sauerbrunn, 276, 277; his unlucky day, 279; disbelieves in Gordon's death, 280, 281; his voyage to England on the Tarifa, 1885, 281-283; his fancy for pilgrimages, 283; his note to the reprint of the "Arabian Nights," 292, 293; in London, 1885, 293; pays visits in England, 294; writes a programme for Egypt for Lord Salisbury, 294-296; applies for the Consulate of Marocco, 297; in Tangier, 303, 311; his views on a Diet for Ireland, 304-307; made a K.C.M.G., 311; his note on the defences of Gibraltar, 312; at Naples, 313; at Schloss Sternstein, 316; his politics, 317; in the Tyrol, 321, 322; his appeal for a full pension, 324-326; his friends, 1886, 329, 330; on the Riviera, 1887, 332, 333; his note on Cannes, 333; his note on the earthquakes in the Riviera, 335, 336, 339; seriously ill, 337, 338; baptized, 337; his account of his illness and journey to Trieste, 338-341; his visitors at Trieste, 341; his speech at the Jubilee festival in Trieste, 342, 343; his pleasures at Trieste, 344; his note to Ally Sloper on receiving a diploma for the "Arabian Nights," 345; his illness, 1887, 346; his smoking-room, 346; his note on Sauerbrunn, 347-349; his day after he was invalided, 352, 354; at Abbazia, 354, 355, 358; his peculiarity of hiding things, 357; his notes on a Swiss summer, 358-361; in London, 1888, 364; at Newmarket, 365; at Boulogne, 1888, 365; lectures at Geneva, 365; writes to the Times upon Suákin, 366; his notes from Vevey, 368; his notes on Lausanne, 370, 375; at Montreux, 373; in the Austrian mountains, 377-379; painted by Mr. Letchford, 377, 397, 415; worried by the Foreign Office, 380, 382; a second operation, 381; leaves for Brindisi, 382; in Malta, 382-386; his friends there, 383; inspects the armoury, 384; at Tunis, 386, 387; travels from Tunis to Algiers, 389, 391; his friends in Algiers, 391, 392; hears stories about himself, 394, 395; leaves Algiers, 394; his reported illness, 397; in Switzerland, 400; loses his spirits, 401-403; returns to Trieste, 405; his last work, 405, 410; watches the swallows, 405, 406; his love for kittens, 408; wrong impressions held about, 409; the day before his death, 409-411; his interest in General Booth's work, 409; his death, 17, 413; receives Extreme Unction, 413; his funeral, 403, 417, 432, 433; his dislike to darkness, 418, 419; his tomb, 419, 431; the letters unanswered at his death, 421; his remains sent to England, 427; his last instructions to his wife, 439; his work on the "Scented Garden," 441; his article on Bhujang and the cock-fight, 477-479; his description of a visit to a Beloch chief, 480-495; his views upon politics, 496-559; Rigby's false statements about, 567-570: his report after the search for Palmer, 591-616 Burton, Richard, books written and published by, ii. 453, 454; unpublished, 454, 455; reviewed by the Bat, 300 ——, books by, on India, i. 150, 158, 159, 165, 399, 425; ii. 110 n., 118, 151; on the Sword, i. 134 n..; ii. 42, 240; on Harar, i. 209, 224; on Africa, i. 257, 337, 350, 376, 407; ii. 41, 42; City of the Saints, i. 339; written in Brazil, 425, 499; Argentine Republic, i. 453: Iceland, 591; written in Trieste, ii. 41, 118; on Midian, ii. 122, 123; translation of Camoens, 181, 182; on the Castellieri in Austria, 214 n.. ——, ghost story, his translation of the, ii. 170-173 ——, epigrams by, i. 116, 122, 389 ——, essays by, ii. 316 ——, epitome of his services, by Lady Burton, i. 333, 334, 346; ii. 45, 47; by Lord Derby, i. 399, 400; in the World, 1877, ii. 6-9; by A. Richards, 11-14; in the Daily News, 125 Burton, Richard, letters by, read to the Royal Geographical Society, i. 338; ii. 560; from Burton to the Druzes, and forged copy of the same, i. 519; on the Druzes, 529; his reply to the Missions of Damascus, 566, 567; on the overflow of the Tiber, ii. 21, 22; to Gordon, 43; on mining on the Gold Coast, ii. 230-235; to the Glasgow Times on the "Arabian Nights," 292; asking for the Consulate of Marocco, 297; to Ally Sloper on receiving a diploma, 345; to the Times upon Suákin, 366; his reply to the invitation to the Stanley Exhibition, 392; to the Times of India, 532; his letter respecting the Jeddah massacre, 560-564, 566; his replies to Captain Rigby's false statements, 570-574; his answers to Melvill's letters, 574, 576, 577 ——, poems by: The Kasîdah, i. 184-195; on Death, 196, 332; a Heavenly Guide, 196; on Fame, 255, 304; to Isabel, 329; "Stone Talk," 393; on Love, 468; Legend of the Lakkí Hills, ii. 63-65; Bari and Isa, 67; on Lufifi, 336; on Hacke's New Idea, 341; on Swallows, 408; to a Nightingale, 410 Burton, Admiral J. Ryder, i. 2, 3 Burton, Captain St. George, ii. 432, 433 Burzeh, i. 483 Buttercup in the desert, i. 203 Byron, ii. 183; Burton's resemblance to, 269 Byzantium, a future kingdom of, ii. 497, 551 C Caboclas in Brazil, i. 435 Cachaça in Brazil, i. 427 Cæsar, Julius, i. 329 Caillée, i. 360 Cairo, i. 171; ii. 128, 129; Burton's reception at, 132; journey from Alexandria to, 598; the City of, 598; Suez railway to, 600 Calicut, i. 149 California, gold in, i. 361, 362; goldwashing in, 367 Calvert, Mr., i. 238 Camapuas, a fright at, i. 441 Cambon, Dr., his eulogy upon Captain Burton, ii. 418 Cambridge, Duke of, ii. 42 Camel riding, i. 479; drivers in Ossian, ii. 468 Camoens, Burton's translation of, ii. 181, 182; Press notices of, 184, 185; sonnet to, by I. Burton, 181; lines on Turkey by, 558 Cameron, Captain, ii. 226; on the Gold Coast, 230, 232, 235; at Axim, 233; in the Euphrates Valley, 557 Campbell, "Bob," ii. 49; anecdotes of, 50 Campbell, Consul, i. 371 Campbell, Dr. J., i. 2, 12 Campbell, Captain Melfort, ii. 298, 397 Canal du Midi, Grand, travelling on the, i. 60 Candia, ii. 549, 557 Cannes, ii. 332, 333 Cantonment, a day in, 1842, i. 136 Capricorn, picnics at the Tropic of, i. 431 Capua, i. 44 Carapalo, the, i. 427, 428 Caravan, travelling with a, i. 175, 290; head-quarters in Africa of, 291, 293; at Kawele, 305 Carbine pistol, Burton's, and projectile, i. 455-457; illustration of, 455; Press notices of, 457 Cardigan, Lord, i. 229, 230 Carlisle, Lord, i. 396 Carlyle, i. 347; his death, ii. 211 Caroline, Queen of the Poissardes, Boulogne, ii. 51 Carpenter, Miss Mary, ii. 80 Carracioli, i. 49 Carter, Dr. H. J., i. 123; his book on diamonds, ii. 527, 528, 530 Carthage, ii. 388, 389 Castasegna, ii. 404 Castro, João da, ii. 110 Cat, curious effect upon people of a, ii. 143 Catholics, emancipation of the, ii. 307; present position in England of, 308; their loyalty, 309 Catullus, Burton's translation of, ii. 443 n. Cautley, Mr. P., ii. 241, 344 Cavour, i. 32; a great statesman, ii. 504 Ceschi, Governor, ii. 31 Cette, i. 54 Ceylon, on board the, ii. 123 Chaillu, Du, i. 386, 462 Chain of the Universe, ii. 470 Chambord, Count de, ii. 121; death of, 253 Chandler, Mr. H., the Bodleian librarian, ii. 323 Chandler, Professor, death of, ii. 377 Chapman's "Iliad," ii. 185 Charlotte, Empress, ii. 19 Charnock, Dr., ii. 29, 151 Charrington, murder of, ii. 242, 608; a promising officer, 611; relics of, 613 Chhaga, image of a woman at, i. 260 Chiasso, ii. 358, 359 Chiavenna, ii. 404 Chico, i. 422, 429; his cruelty to a cat, 430 Chillon, ii. 373, 374 China, war with, i. 131; Burton advocates an alliance with, ii. 317; Lord Salisbury forms an alliance with, 318, 319; her influence upon the civilized world, 320; competitive exams. introduced from, 475, 537; contains the future race of Asia, 508; cheap labour in, 521; our bulwark against Russia, 543, 606 Chogway, i. 263, 264, 273-276 Cholera in Naples, i. 51; in Venice and Trieste, ii. 32; how it spreads into Europe, 513-515; precautions to be taken against the, 515 "Christian Revival in Syria," by R. Burton, i. 548-565 Christians, in Syria, i. 501; converts from El Islam, 551, 552; persecutions, of the, 553-557, 559-562, 584; their constancy, 556; increase in the number of, 558; in Damascus, 575 Christmas Day, 1858, i. 325; 1888, ii. 368 Churchill, Colonel, "Mount Lebanon," by, ii. 142; on Druze mediums, 148; on Spiritualism, 150 Cialdini, General, i. 241 Cibo, Cardinal, i. 357 Cicci, the, ii. 15 Cigars in India, 1842, i. 112 Cintra, i. 417 Circassia, i. 244 Citta Vecchia, ii. 384, 509 City of brass, i. 261 Clanricarde, Lord, i. 233 Clarendon, Lord, letter to Burton from, i. 469; his death, 500; refused to make Burton a K.C.B., ii. 45 Clarke, Mr. Charles, ii. 601, 602 Clarke, Dr., on export of gold, i. 370 Cleland, Captain, i. 98, 103, 131 Clermont, petrifactions at, i. 460, 460 n. Clough, Mr., i. 17, 20 Cobden, Richard, i. 114; on India 115; ii. 540 Colchians, ii. 29 Cole, Mr., Consul in Jeddah, ii. 516 Coleridge, Lord, i. 80 College companions, Burton's, i. 72, 73 Collins, Wilkie, death of, ii. 381 Cologne, i. 84; ii. 1 Como, Lake, ii. 404, 405 Conflagration, a, i. 307 Confucius, i. 188 n.; ii. 457, 466; denied a personal Deity, 469 Congo, or Zaire River, i. 296 n.; Burton explores the rapids of, 387; Livingstone discovers the, 464 n., 465 Conolly, Mr., i. 149; murder of, ii. 516 Constable, Sir C., i. 339 Constantin, a fencing-master, ii. 365 Constantine, ii. 390 Constantinople, ii. 550 Controfiani, Count, i. 43, 44 Consul, trials of a, in Damascus, i. 602, 603; experiences of his wife, ii. 277 Conway, Captain, ii. 65 Conyngham-Jones, i. 38 Cookson, Sir C., farewell to Burton, ii. 179 Cooley, Mr., i. 363, 365; on Abutua, 367 n. Coquimbo of Chili, i. 369 n. Cora, Signor, ii. 52 Corfu, ii. 128; restoration of, 549, 557, 592 Corsellis, Colonel, i. 147 Cotton mills in India, ii. 79, 519 Courcy, John de, i. 40 Court and Society Review on Burton's pension, ii. 326 Cowie, Rev. Morgan, i. 46 Cox, Serjeant, on Pyschology, ii. 141; on Spiritualism, 155 Crawford, Mrs., ii. 399 Cremation, Burton's views on, ii. 267 Creoles, i. 358 Crete, ii. 593 Crimea, Burton in the, i. 225-248; ii. 12; cost of the war in the, i. 235; end of the war, 246; ii. 539; a Catholic officer in the, 309 Critics and reviewers, ii. 262 Crocodiles, i. 307 Crookes, Mr., i. 425; his amalgamation, 442; 463; on electricity, ii. 149; at a Spiritualist meeting, 155, 156 Crowley, Rev. Dr., i. 64 Crucifix from Dahomè, i. 383, 384 Cyclops, H.M.S., at Jeddah, ii. 516, 565 Cyprus, ii. 504, 549, 557 Cyrus Cries antigone, i. 110 D Da'as Agha, chief of Jerúd, i. 472, 473 Dabba, battle of, i. 116, 137, 141, 144 Dahomè, Burton in, i. 381; ii. 7, 12, 14; cruelty in, i. 382; the King's answer to Burton's message, 383, 385; Burton dances with the King of, 438 Dalling, Lord, a bill in Trieste, ii. 512 Dalmatia, Austrian possession of, ii. 502; harbours of, 506; kingdom of, 509; territory of, 510; Hungary opposes the development of, 511; metals in, 546; Emperor of Austria's visit to, 546, 555 Damascus, Burton at, i. 179, 180, 468, 578; ii. 327; the capital of Syria, i. 574, 584; ii. 56; Burton made Vice-Consul in, i. 455; houses in, 470; a return to, 479; the house near, 480, 498; the village near, 480, 481, 498; the environs of, 483, 506; friends on the house roof at, 485, 490; Christians in danger in, 502, 503; people protected by the British Consulate, 530; their injustice and greed, 531, 532; intended riot in, 532, 572; panic allayed by Burton in, 538; Bishops of, send a letter to Burton regretting his recall, 539; an ideal Consul for, 575; native food in, ii. 264 Damien, Father, death of, ii. 376 Danah, ruins of a tomb at, i. 527 Dance in a Caravan, i. 292 Dancing at Blois, i. 34 Dangar tribes at Mátherán, ii. 104 Dante, ii. 463; on the Quarnero Gulf, 499, 503 Darbiyah Kola, i. 204 Dardanelles during the Crimean War, i. 235, 237, 238, 244 Dar el Bey, ii. 388 Davis, Dr., on magic, ii. 148 Davos Platz, ii. 402; drive to Maloja from, 402 Death, Arabic legend of, i. 188 n.; ii. 468 December 4th, 1875, ii. 51 Dee, Dr., ii. 146 Deir el Khammar, i. 508 Delafosse, Bobby, i. 30, 31 Delafosse, Rev. Ch., i. 27, 28 Derby, Lord, and Burton's manuscript, i. 280; proposes Captain Burton's health at the farewell dinner of the Anthropological Society, 399-402; his kindness to Burton, 425 Desanges, Louis, i. 64 Desert, life in the, i. 477, 478; of the Exodus, corrections in the, ii. 610 Dhioliba, river, i. 360 Dhumayr, village of, i. 484 Diaforus, Dr. i. 56 Diamonds, in Golconda, ii. 523; historic, 524; English and Indian weights, 524 n.; diggings in India, 525, 527, 528; diggings in the Krishna Valley, 529, 530, 533; mines of Pannah, 528, 529; diggings abandoned in India, 530, 532 ——, Koh-i-noor, history of the, ii. 93-97, 524 Diamonds, Nazim, history of the, ii. 523, 524; compared with historic gems, 524 ——, Pitt, the, ii. 524-526 Dieppe, i. 23, 26 Diderot, ii. 471, 474 Dinkira, i. 368, 371 Dobbin, i. 37, 39 Dog, the Kurdish, i. 523 Dolomites, a visit to the, ii. 188 Donkey, a, in Suez, ii. 129 Dormer, Countess, tries to make peace between Speke and Burton, i. 331; ii. 425 Dorn, Dr., ii. 237 Dosabhai Sohrabji, i. 101, 131, 137, 154 Dost Mohammed Khan, ii. 522 Dove, everywhere sacred, i. 177 Doyle, Richard, died, ii. 272 Dragomans, good, i. 477 n. Drake, Charles Tyrwhitt, i. 478, 490, 493, 497, 500, 522; explores Anti-Lebanon, 520; a trip to Lebanon described by, 524, 525; deciphers hieroglyphics at Hamáh, 526; returns with Burton, 569; his letters on Burton's recall, 581-584; his kindness to Mrs. Burton, 585, 588, 589; visits the Burtons in Trieste, ii. 26, 30; his death, 31, 35, 609 Drawing, value of, i. 60, 61 Dresser, Mr. C., ii. 148 Drummond-Hay, Sir J. and Lady, ii. 297, 303, 312 Druzes, i. 493, 496; race and country of the, 506-508; women, 506; Shayhks, 508; villages on the Eastern side of Hermon, 511; peasantry, 513; settlement, 514; invite Burton to visit them, 518, 519; his reply, 519; apply for an English school, 529; treachery of the, 529 Druze Shayhk's longing to kill the usurers, i. 541 Dublin, i. 396; Burton lectures in, ii. 133; his friends there, 133 Dudley, Lady, ii. 25 Duino, ii. 31; baths at, 212, 213; life at, 214, 398 Dumá Ruzaymah, i. 515 Du Pré, M., i. 31-34, 45, 50, 52, 66, 69 Duss Malablay, i. 217 Dut'humi, i. 281; slave-trade at, 282; game in, 288; the return journey from, 326 Dwárká s.s., i. 149, 150; on board the, 179, 179 n. Dyett, Lieutenant, i. 148 Dyke, Messrs., erect mausoleum to Sir Richard, ii. 429, 432 E Earthquake, in Africa, i. 308; in Trieste, 1880, ii. 189; 1890, 277, 406; at Opçina, 1882, 244; on the Riviera, 1887, 335, 337, 339 Eastwick, Edward, i. 231 Ecclesiastes, ii. 473 Education abroad a mistake for boys, i. 32 "Ego," Burton's tablet of, ii. 163, 164; man's, 473 Egypt, i. 192 n.; the meeting-place of nations, ii. 75; Burton's second visit to, 116; entertainment given by the Khedive of, 130; railways in, 548; progress in, 550, 557; independence of, 557, 558, 615; slavery in, 558, 615; English occupation of, 591, 613, 614; the army in, 615; the police in, 615 Egyptian Empire, the first, ii. 459; religious ideas in the old, on the soul, 466; on freewill, 468; on repentance, 475 Egyptian Expeditions up the Nile, i. 313, 314, 319, 320; in search of gold, i. 362 n.; under Burton, ii. 122, 123 Einsiedeln, ii. 400 Eisach, ii. 2 El Barah, curious tombs at, i. 527 Eldridge, Mr., Consul at Damascus, i. 504, 507, 517, 518; his discourtesy to the Burtons, 570; his unkindness, 585, 590; thanks Mrs. Burton for her conduct about the Shaykh's son, 601 Elephant, i. 190 n., 265; riding an, ii. 89, 91; Indian name for "Hathi," 472 Elgin, Lord, i. 327 El Hamra, i. 173 El Ihram, ceremony of, i. 175 Elijah, i. 483, ii. 471 Ellenborough, Lord, i. 99, 117, 131 Ellenborough, Lady (Hon. Jane Digby el Mezrab), i. 470; the extortions of her Bedawi tribe, 471; her history, 485, 487-490; Mrs. Burton's defence of, 487; her grave, 492; her letter respecting Burton's recall, 338, 539; her friendship for Mrs. Burton, 588 Elliot, Sir G. H., ii. 594 Elliot, Mrs., i. 419 Elmina, gold first brought from, i. 362, 363 Elphinstone, General, i. 94 Elphinstone, Lord, i. 200 Elphinstone, H.M.S., ii. 563, 564 Embalming, modern, ii. 415 Emerat, M., murdered at Jeddah, ii. 517 England, ill luck attached to the Koh-i-noor in, ii. 96; prophecy of internal troubles in 1876, 511; her policy of compromise, 556 Englishmen at sea, ii. 115 Epicurus, ii. 140 Eroteos, Patriarch of Antioch, letter to Burton on his recall from Damascus, i. 539, 540 Esterhazy, Prince, ii. 505 Eternal Gardener, the, ii. 466 n. Ethersey, Captain, i. 125 Eugène of Savoy, Prince, ii. 507; his advice to Austria, 546, 554 Eunostus light, the, ii. 593 Eunuchs, trade in, ii. 208 Euphrates Valley Railway, ii. 498, 549 Euxine Sea, the, i. 227, 228 Evans, Mr. A., in trouble in Herzegovina, ii. 225, 544 Eveillard, Mdlle., in the massacre at Jeddah, ii. 516, 517 Executions as a treat for children, i. 22 Exhibitions, in Vienna, ii. 23, 24; at Trieste, 23-26; in England, 1851, 540 F Faber, Mr. and Mrs., ii. 224, 316, 355 Fadajeff, ii. 501 Faithful, Miss E., ii. 43 Falconry in the valley of the Indus, i. 143; ii. 453 Fardella, Lieut.-Colonel, i. 236 Fargus, F. (Hugh Conway), died, ii. 281 Fatima, ii. 77 "Fauntleroy, Little Lord," ii. 361 Favre, Mme. Jules, Spiritualism at the house of, ii. 120 Favre, Mme. Léon, ii. 20; death of, ii. 128 Fazán, a good setter, ii. 278 Felkin, Rev. Robert, on Gordon's death, ii. 280 Fellah, the, i. 526; ii. 602; as a soldier, 603, 604 Fenian emigrants, i. 226 n. Fernando Po, West Africa, Burton's first Consulate, i. 344, 350-356, 381 Ferraris-Occhieppo, Count and Countess, ii. 19 Fetishes, negro, i. 369 Filder, General, i. 227 Findlay, Mr., letter on the Nile from, ii. 38, 40 Fisterre, Mme., i. 19, 22 Fitzgerald, Mr. Desmond, his speech on opening Spiritualists' meeting in London, ii. 137, 138; his reply to Mrs. Burton, 153; replies to Mrs. Hallock, 154; his discussion with Captain Burton, 155, 157 "Fitzgerald, Fighting," i. 146 Fitzgerald, Mr. Gerald, made a K.C.M.G., ii. 281 Fitzgerald, Mr. Lewis, lines from his translation of Hafiz, ii. 467 Fitzgerald, Lady, i. 347; ii. 237 Fiume, ii. 27, 34; a voyage to, 221; 355; port of, 505, 509 Flanatic Bay, ii. 509 Flora, beyond the desert, i. 205; in the Fuga Mountains, 269; at the foot of the Usagára Mountains, 283; near the Makata, 285; in Brazil, 426; in India, ii. 82 Florence, residence in, i. 40, 41 Floyer, Mr., letter on the "Arabian Nights," ii. 625 Foakes, Dr., ii. 293, 331 Foiba in the Karso, ii. 180 Food in Sind, ii. 488 Forbes, Duncan, i. 93, 94, 154 Forbes Winslow, Dr., ii. 158 Förner, Fray Emanuel, i. 552, 555 Foxes, shooting, ii. 40 France, the army in 1876, ii. 498; in Africa, 549 Franco Pasha, i. 508 Frank, Dr. and Lady A., ii. 334, 337, 338 Frankfort, ii. 1 Franklin, Major, on diamonds, ii. 528, 530 Fraser, Lieutenant, ii. 561 Frauenfeld, Rifle Association in, ii. 400 Frederick, the Empress, ii. 25, 168 Freeman, Mr., on the Magyar, ii. 546, 547, 555 French, Republic proclaimed, 1848, i. 151; in India, 111; politics, 1875, ii. 497, 498; vengeance for the massacre at Jeddah, 518 "French in India," a good book, ii. 92 Fresnet, Mr. Fulgence, ii. 516 Fröhnleiten, ii. 167, 168 Frost, Mr., i. 279, 280; letters to Burton from, 325 Froude, Mr., i. 347, 455 Frushard, Captain, ii. 562 Fuad Pasha, i. 237; ii. 518 Fuga, i. 263, 269, 270; monsoon at, 271 Fulayli, river, i. 143; ii. 65 G Gaboon, river, i. 356, 372 Gabriell, Miss V., i. 64 Gaisford, Dean, i. 75 Galland, Professor, his edition of the "Arabian Nights," ii. 283, 288 Gallas, the, i. 205, 260; spearmen, 207 Galway, Captain, i. 47 Gambetta, Mr., ii. 604 Gambier, Captain, mesmerized by Burton, i. 450 n. Game, in Usagára Mountains, i. 288; near Damascus, 499 Game-cocks of Hyderabad, i. 136; ii. 477 Garapooree Island, ii. 61 Garcia, Maria (Morbihan), i. 41 Gautier, Théophile, on mixed blood, i. 16 Gayangos, Don Pascual de, i. 77 Gehenna, or Hell, i. 193 n.; lines on, ii. 474 Geneva, ii. 361; Burton lectures at, 365; accidents in the hotel, 365, 392 Genoa, 1886, ii. 315 Geographical Society, Royal, i. 224, 227; supplies Burton and Speke with funds for exploring Africa, 257; ii. 420; extract from Proceedings of the, after Burton's return, i. 312; Burton's letter to the, ii. 560; sends Speke on a second expedition to Africa, i. 258, 328; meetings of the, 338, 406, 593, 594 Geological formation of Africa, i. 296 n. Gerad, Adan, i. 206, 213, 214 Gerad Mohammad of Harar, i. 209, 211 Gerard, Lord, i. 376; his kindness to Captain and Mrs. Burton, 587, 591; ii. 309, 331, 340 Geronino, ii. 394 Gessi Pasha, ii. 124, 194; his death, 214 G. H——, letter to Lady Burton on her book "Arabia, Egypt, and India," from, ii. 317-320 Gháfir, a necessity in Arabia, ii. 611 Ghana, king of, golden palace of the, i. 368, 526 Gharra, Burton's description of, i. 128, 142, 143, 155; ii. 63 Ghartous, Nicolas, i. 502 Ghazu, a Bedawi raid, i. 472, 475 Ghazzeh, ii. 243 Gherba, cataract of, i. 313 Ghiyas, i. 494 Ghora, a, in India, i. 133 Ghoul-i-Biyâbân, i. 185; ii. 467 Gibbon at Lausanne, ii. 370 Gibraltar, ii. 310; defences of, 312, 313; Burton's friends at, ii. 314 Gilchrist, Mr., i. 17, 20 Gill, Mr., murder of, ii. 242, 608, 611 relics of, ii. 613 Giraud, Lieut.-Colonel, i. 236 Gladstone, Mr., on Turkish engagements, i. 563; Burton meets, ii. 49, 141, 547 Glasgow Times on Sir Richard, ii. 292 Glennie, Mr., i. 420 Glossina morsitans, i. 285, 286, 288 Glubdubdrid, island of, ii. 145 n. Glyn, Admiral, died, ii. 274 Gnostic, i. 188 n. Goa, i. 148, 162; ii. 105: history of, 105; people of, 107; heat of, 107; religious history of, 110-112; ruined by the Inquisition, 112, 113 Goa Velha, ii. 106 Goanese church, where Burton became a Catholic, ii. 63 Goanese servants, i. 279, 282, 292 God, ii. 469; the racial expression of, 470 Golconda, history of, ii. 92; buildings in, 92, 93; deposition of the King of, 91; diamonds in, 525, 526 Gold, in Africa, i. 361; Burton's notes on, 361-364; in California, 362; from Elmina, 362; leading men in the gold trade, fifteenth century, 363; washing, 364, 373; limits of gold regions, 366, 367; native name for, 366; stools used by native kings, 368, 368 n.; Bosman on, 369, 370; in Midian, ii. 166; in West Africa, Burton's note on, 178, 179; in Guinea, 224, 226, 227, 230-235; difficulties in working the, 226 Goldsmid, Sir F., i. 533; his attack upon Mrs. Burton, 534 Gondokoro, ii. 40 Gondolas in Venice, ii. 31 Gordon, Mr., i. 442, 443; his kindness to his slaves, 446, 447; meets Lady Burton in London, ii. 294 Gordon, General, i. 287, 303 n.; asks Burton to join him in the Soudan, ii. 43, 130; meets Mrs. Burton in London, 1880, 177; his success in checking the slave-trade, 192, 193, 195, 196, 202; Riaz Pasha undoes his work, 195; compulsory retirement of, 196, 197; 242; his death, 279; disbelieved, 280; in China, 543 Gorge de Triente, ii. 360 Gorizia, ii. 120, 214; in 1883, 243, 254, 399 Goschen, Mr., ii. 211 Goshen, land of, ii. 54 Gowan, Mr., ii. 232 Gozzadini, death of, ii. 350 Graham, Father, ii. 402 Grant Allen, i. 215; ii. 446 Grant, Captain, i. 388, 405; his African expedition, 407, 464; ii. 46; his attack upon Sir Richard after his death, 421, 422 Granville, Lord, and the Sházlis, i. 547, 548; his treatment of Burton, 567, 568 n.; ii. 327; misunderstood Burton's letter about the Sházlis, i. 597 Greece, the coast of, ii. 117; the future of, 547, 548; the army of, 552, 554 Greek in Oxford, i. 83 Greenhill, Dr., i. 69, 76, 82 Gregorutti, Dr., ii. 31 Gregory XVI., i. 42 Grey, Duncan, i. 96 Grey, Lady Elizabeth, ii. 401 Grey, Sir George, i. 339 Grierson, Mr., i. 561 Grindlay, Captain, i. 169, 170 Grindlay's fire, i. 345; valuable manuscripts lost in, ii. 439, 440 Grundy, Mrs., in Oxford, i. 79 Guebres, teaching of the, ii. 140 Guest, a curious, ii. 160, 161 Guinea, gold in, ii. 224, 227 Guinea Gold Coast Mining Co., ii. 232, 234 Guizot, M., his brother makes imitation wine, i. 54; on the supernatural, ii. 141 Gujarat, i. 106, 133; ii. 63; rainy season in, i. 122, 138 Guled, ii. 60 Gulwen, a servile republic in, ii. 588 Guni, river, i. 143 Gunners, Indian, i. 110 Gunning, Dr., i. 437 Guns worshipped in Baroda, i. 110 Gutmansthal, Mme., ii. 168; Saint Silvester's fêtes passed with, 244, 272; her picture of Captain Burton, 268 Gyaman, gold in, i. 372 Gypsy Lore Society, Journal of the, quotations from the, i. 251, 252 H Habr Awal Bedawi, i. 206 Hadi Abd Allah, Shaykh, i. 510 Hafiz of Shiraz, i. 186 n.; lines by, ii. 467 Hajar el Hablah, i. 501 Haji Abdu (Kasîdah), ii. 456; seeking for Truth, 458, 472; believes in Law, 462, 463; on the soul, 465; borrows the Hindu idea of the body, 468; on a personal Deity, 469; on good and evil, 471, 476; on conscience, 472; on the protoplasm, 473; on faith, 474 Haji Wali, death of, ii. 253 Haji Jauhur, i. 148 Hajj in Jeddah, ii. 56 "Halifax, John," lines from, ii. 408 Halimát el Kabú, view from the, i. 522 Hallock, Mrs., answers Burton at the Spiritualist meeting, ii. 153-156 Hamáh, valuable monuments at, i. 525 Hamdan, i. 272, 273 Hamed, Sheikh, on Lake Tanganyika, ii. 38 Hamerton, Colonel, Consul of Zanzibar, i. 257, 259, 263, 277-279; Burton's farewell to, 280; his qualities, 281; engaged porters for Burton's expedition, ii. 568, 570, 571, 572 Hamilton, Captain, on the diamond mines, ii. 526 Hamlet, ii. 52 Hammæum of Pliny, i. 362 n. Hammal, accompanied Burton to Mecca, i. 203; ii. 60, 214, 216, 217, 218 Hamman R'irha, baths at, ii. 392 Hanga, i. 321, 322 Hanna Misk, an ungrateful dragoman, i. 571 Hanu, the monkey, i. 133 Harar, Moslem Abyssinia, Burton's expedition to, i. 199, 207-213; a Harar grandee, 207; language of, 209; ignorance in London respecting, 227; the Egyptians in, ii. 60 ——, the Amir of, i. 206-212; ii. 561 Hardman, Sir W., death of, ii. 405 Hare, Mr. A., ii. 135 Hargraves, Mr., i. 367 Hari Chand, ii. 480-483, 486, 489, 491, 495 Harrison, Mr., and zeo-electricity, ii. 156 Harry, Mr., The Palms, Malta, ii. 383 Harvey, Mr., on the Prestea reef, ii. 234 Hasan Brahim, Shaykh, house of, i. 514 Hasbeya, i. 509 Hashim, Shaykh, i. 150 Hatfield, Burton's visit to, ii. 294 Havelock, Sir H., on the Anglo-Indian army, ii. 72 Hawke, B. E., i. 21 Hawkins, Captain, at Surat, 1609, i. 139. Hawkins, Sir R, i. 369 n. Hawkins, Lieutenant, i. 182 Hazael, i. 483 Hazan el Faur, of the Faylin tribe, the camp of, i. 510 Hazelface, Mr., i. 350 Hazir, an ascent into the, i. 515 Hazramis in Jeddah, ii. 57 Hebrew faith, the, ii. 140 Heidelberg, i. 87 Hejaz, El, i. 179 Hejazi, the, ii. 57 Henniker, Mrs., i. 347 Henri III., ii. 143 Henry, Professor, ii. 105 n. Herat, ii. 542 Herbelot, d', ii. 600 Herbert, Mr. Sidney, i. 247 Herklots, Dr., "Qanoon-i-Islam," by, ii. 142, 145; 146, 149 Herne, Lieutenant, i. 198-200, 211, 217, 220-223 Hertford, Lord, and his Parisian architect, ii. 513 Herzegovina and Austria, ii. 502 n., 506; the future of, 510, 511, 546, 554; progress in, 555 Heslop, Rev. S., on diamond sandstone in India, ii. 527 Heyne, Dr., on, ii. 528 Hilgenfeld, Professor, i. 483 Hippopotamus, i. 264, 307; hunting the, 274 Hitchman, Mr., biography of Burton, by, i. viii.; 345; ii. 446 Hockley, Mr. E., on the magic mirror, ii. 148 Hodaydah, ii. 563 Hodgson, General, ii. 404 Hogg, Sir J., i. 118 Hohenlöhe, Princess, ii. 31, 213, 376 Holland, Queen of, ii. 49 Holman Hunt, ii. 55 Holy Land on the brain, i. 496, 497; a visit to the, 542, 544 Holyrood, i. 599 Home News, notice of the "Arabian Nights," ii. 290 Home Rule, Burton's letters on, in Austria and Ireland, ii. 304-307 "Honour, not honours," Burton's motto, i. 303; ii. 267 Hood, Mrs., i. 421 Hood, lines on gold, i. 361 Hormuzd, ii. 472 Horsemanship in India, i. 119, 135 Horses watering in the desert, i. 474; curious stopping, ii. 350, 403 Hossein, tragedy of, ii. 76, 77 Hough, Alfred, lines on the devil, i. 544 Hough, Mrs., ii. 99 Houghton, Lord (late), his circle of friends, i. 344, 347, 376, 393, 463; at a publisher's dinner, 594; the Burtons' visit to, ii. 49; death of, 294 Houghton, Lord (present), i. 347 "Houris," the word, ii. 467 Howard, Cardinal, ii. 21 Hugo, Victor, i. 60; funeral of, ii. 282 Humboldt, Baron, on gold, i. 361 Hungarians, the, in Europe, ii. 505-507; in Austria, 508 Hungary, in 1876, ii. 505; a land of white Turks, 546 Hunt, Dr., i. 402, 404 Hunter, Major-General, i. 129 Hunter, Rev. R., ii. 527 Hutchinson, Dr., i. 382 Hutton, the bone-setter, ii. 177, 282 Huwaytat, tribe of Egypto-Arabs, ii. 612 Huxley's (Professor) pedigree of the horse, ii. 474 Hyderabad, i. 145; Burton's second visit to, ii. 65, 75; a journey to, 85; its prosperity, 85; its origin and history, 89, 90; its cleanliness and order, 91, 92; game-cocks of, 477 n.; diamonds in, 525; coal in, 531, 534;; a volcano in, 531 ——, Nazim of, his government, ii. 85, 86; in the House of Lords, 531 I Ibrahim Khan Talpur, Meer, ii. 66, 480, 485, 491, 494 Iceland, Burton goes to, i. 591, 597; ii. 50; the sulphur mines in, i. 591; ii. 41, 43; the natives of, and their coffins, 67 n. Iddesleigh, Lord, ii. 329; his death, 332 Idria, ii. 124 Iguana, i. 283 India, cadet's outfit for, 1842, i. 95; Burton's first voyage to, 97-99; English morals in, 1842, 108, 109, 135; European life in, 1842, 108, 111, 131; formation of the Empire, of, 115, 116; interest required for promotion in, 1842, 154, 163; Burton's second visit to, ii. 53; natives of, in Jeddah, 56; Tombs of the Kings at Kalhora and Talpur in, 66; native marriage in, 80; native opinion of the English in, 80, 88, 541; hospitality in, 86-89; disputes about our treatment of the natives of, 88; tombs in Golconda, in, 92; iron-mines in, 103, 533; native races in, 104, 519; climate of, 520; population of, 520, 521; cause of famines in, 521; diamond-diggings in, 525; jewels in, 530; our policy in, 531; undeveloped resources of, 532; our mismanagement of, 536; poverty of, 536 ——, East, Company, its government in India, 105, 114, 134, 137; ii. 537; its position, 1842, i. 114, 115; position of an officer under the, 104, 131, 153; ungrateful treatment of Burton by the, 345, 346; ii. 46, 327; its treaty with the Nizam of Hyderabad, 527 n. India, Portuguese, ii. 105 ——, Viceroy of, duties of the, ii. 519 Indian army, changed rulers, 1861, i. 345; the present, ii. 65, 69-75 Indo-Aryan race in Sind, ii. 75 Indo-Mediterranean Railway, ii. 176 Indrauni River valley, ii. 83 Indus, the river, ii. 75 —— valley, improvements in the, ii. 75; future of the, ii. 76 Ingotro, concession of gold in, ii. 230, 231 Inkermann, i. 229 "Inner Life of Syria," publication of the, ii. 40, 44, 56 Innsbrück, ii. 2, 188, 321, 322 Inquisition in Goa, ii. 110-113 Insects, in Gujerat, i. 138; in Africa, 265, 282, 285, 286; near Khok'lo, 288; at Ugogi and Kazeh, 293; in Brazil, 421, 427 Inskip, Mr., i. 45 Invalides, Hôtel des, i. 9 "Inventories," the, ii. 293 Iporanga lead-mines, i. 424, 425; did not take in London, 453, 455 Irby, Miss, ii. 128 Ireland, the Burtons in, i. 395-398; ii. 133; Home rule in, 304-307 Irish Catholics and the Magyars, ii. 506 Irora, i. 308 Irregulars in the Crimea, i. 237-247 Irving, Rev. Edward, i. 17 Irving, Henry, ii. 51, 162, 329 Isabel, Princess, of Brazil, i. 438 Ischel, ii. 220, 221 Ismail Pasha, Khedive, sends Burton to Midian, ii. 122, 126, 228; his abdication, 177, 288; abatement of the slave-trade under, 195, 196; on Arábi, 602 Ismailíyyeh, ii. 54, 605 Isonzo river, the, ii. 120, 503 Istria, castellieri of, ii. 27-30; fauna in, 29; Italian, not Austrian, 503 "It," curious episode of, ii. 180, 181, 434, 435 Italian Expedition to Egypt, ii. 504 Italy, the Burtons' journey to, i. 35; native amusements in, 36; in 1881, 52; in 1836, 53; an irregular marriage in, 62; a household in, 66; Mrs. Burton's visits to, ii. 23, 36, 37; prospects of, 497; politics in, 1876, 499, 502; frontiers of, 503; advances too fast, 504; and Tripoli, 549, 550; "unredeemed," 550; the rival of Austria, 502, 555 Izrâil, i. 195 J Jacob, General John, i. 56, 236; his house, ii. 66; his work on the Indian army, 69-71; his incapacity, 74; his death, 75 Jacobabad, troops at, ii. 69, 70; climate of, 73, 76 Jacquemont, Victor, grave of, ii. 80; 528 James, Mr. Edwin, at Beatson's trial, i. 247 n. James, Mr. F., killed in Africa, ii. 397 Jamsetji Jijibhoy, Sir, ii. 100 Jats (gypsies) in India, i. 151; ii. 67, 82 Javanese, ii. 57 Jebel Atákah, ii. 54, 606 Jebel Barúk, i. 506 Jebel Durúz Haurán, i. 514 Jebel el Kulayb, i. 513 Jebel el Zowi, ruined cities in, i. 527 Jebel Jeneffeh, ii. 54 Jebel Mukattam, ii. 606 Jedawi, the, ii. 57 Jeddah, i. 178, 180; Burton sends a warning of trouble at, i. 324, 325; ii. 562-564; a visit to, 54, 55; the bazar in, 55-57; the voyage from, 58; massacre at, 1858, i. 325; ii. 513, 515-519, 565, British ships at, 563; imports and exports at, ii. 563 Jenkins, Dr., i. 72 Jephson, Captain, ii. 329, 403 Jeramánah, i. 483 Jeremiah, ii. 468 Jerid, an Arab, i. 473, 474, 507 Jerrold, Douglas, i. 79; death of, ii. 281 Jerusalem, i. 544; ii. 557; climate of, 609 Jesuits at Goa, ii. 108 Jesus Christ a Jew, i. 535 Jews, in Syria, i. 530; in London protect those in Syria, 530, 533; Mrs. Burton's admiration for the, 535; cruelty of the usurious, 536, 579; try to ruin Burton, 539; divisions of the —— in Damascus, 574 Jiwella, Mkioa, i. 289 Jobar, i. 483 Jogi, the (Hindú), ii. 149 John Knox, Burton on board the, 1842, i. 97-99, 154 Johns, Mr. W. J., and the Guinea Coast Company, ii. 228, 234 Johnson, Dr., ii. 143, 473 Johnson, Rev. G. L., ii. 220 Johnson, Mr. H., ii. 294 Johnstone, Mrs., ii. 128 Jokai, ii. 376 Jordan, sources of the, i. 509 Journal de Constantinople, i. 238 Jowett, Dr., i. 80; ii. 48 Joyner, Mr., his engineering in India, ii. 84, 103, 520 Jugglery in India, ii. 81 Juizdafora, oranges in, i. 440 Jumat Khana, the, ii. 76 Jumblatt, Sitt, i. 507, 508 K Ka'abah, i. 175, 176, 178, 365 n. Kabalán el Kala'áni (Druze chief), i. 515 Kadi, Moslem, and the Monks, ii. 81 Kafirs, ii. 586 Kafr Dawar, ii. 598 Kaimmákam of Jeddah, ii. 513 Kambirah, Mount, i. 317 Kanheri caves, ii. 83, 102 Kannena (African chief), i. 301-303, 306 Kaolé, i. 280 Karáchi, British troops at, 1844, i. 127, 140; in 1844, 126, 142, 154; sickness at, 148; Burton's shops at, 144, 156; ii. 63; Burton's second visit to, 62; native infantry at, 69; a terminus at, 76 Karágwah, highlands of, i. 299, 318; monsoon at, 320 Karla Caves, ii. 83 Karrachee Advertiser, i. 145 Karryatayn, i. 472, 473 Kars, Burton's plan for the relief of (Crimean War), i. 241; siege of, 242; fall of, 243; ii. 539; in Russian hands, 548, 556, 606 Karso, the, ii. 16, 26, 32; life on the, 40; like Hyderabad, 85; Burton's scientific expedition to, 124 Kasmor, ii. 75 Kasrawan, the, i. 501 Kasr Namrud, temple of, i. 523 Kátkaris, Indian tribe, ii. 104 Katta (sand grouse), a guide to water in the desert, i. 215, 515 Kawele, i. 303 Kayâni, i. 189 n. Kázeh, bad lodgings in, i. 292; Burton's return to, 308, 309; Speke's return to, 312 Kazi Mohammed Ghana, i. 359 Kean, Edmund, i. 29 Keane, Sir J., in India, i. 121 Keith, Major, ii. 420 Kelat as a sanitarium, ii. 75 Kellgren, Dr., ii. 330, 331 Kelly, Mr., Consul at Milan, ii. 52 Kenia, Mount, i. 319, 320 Kerbala, battle of, ii. 77 Khalfan bin Ali, i. 260 Khamoor, the Arab maid, i. 504, 593; returns home, ii. 41 Khanum Jan, i. 157 Kharekwasla tanks, ii. 84, 520 Khátim-Sulaymán, the, ii. 144 n. Khiva, Russian invasion of, ii. 542 Khizr, i. 190 K'hokho, i. 288 K'hutu, i. 281 Kibuga in Uganda, i. 310 Kidd, Captain, i. 259 Kikobaga, river, i. 325 Kimwere, Sultan, i. 269, 270, 272, 273 King, Mrs. Hamilton, lines by, i. 329 Kinglake, Mr. A., i. 403 Kingsford, Dr. Anna, ii. 283, 293, 332, 333, 356 Kingsleys, i. 347 Kiperepeta, i. 325 Kipling, Rudyard, i. 159; ii. 80 Kirby Green, Mr., Consul of Marocco, ii. 324 Kiringawána, i. 325 Kíríra, good climate of, i. 294 Kiruru, i. 281 Kisanga, i. 324 Kislingbury, Miss, ii. 138 Kisáwáhili, coast language in Africa, i. 311; word for gold, 366 n. Kismet, i. 194 n. Kitangure, river, i. 295, 310, 317 Kitara, the coffee mart, i. 316 n. Kitiri, island of, i. 316 n. Kizangu, village of, i. 272 Knowsley, Mrs. Burton's visit to, i. 595 Koh-i-noor, the, ii. 524-526; native estimate of the, ii. 96, 97; fatal history of the, 93, 95 Kohoday, i. 268, 272 Konduchi, a welcome return to, i. 326 Kondura, i. 213 Kossuth, ii. 555 Kotri, fort of, changes noted by Burton at the, ii. 65 Krainberg, ii. 321 Krapf, Dr., i. 312 n.; on Central Africa, 319 n. Kremer, Baron von, ii. 380; death of, 387 Kurds in Jeddah, ii. 56 Kurdestan, ii. 548 L Laborde, Count Léon de, ii. 145 Labouchere, Mr., ii. 222 Lacerda, Dr., i. 306 Lacy Evans, Sir De, i. 236 Lagos, i. 350, 352, 359 Laibach, ii. 212, 347 Laing, Mr. Robert, ii. 276 Laird, Mr. Macgregor, i. 376; ii. 542 Lake Hums, in Syria, i. 527, 528 Lake Liemba, ii. 39 Lake Ngami, i. 295 n. Lake Nyanza, water supply of the, i. 295, 296, 296 n., 312; formation of the, 305; Speke's discovery of, 312; ii. 421, 423; confused ideas about the position of, i. 316, 317; latitude and longitude of, 317; description of the, 318, 319; periodical flooding of, 320; Burton's note on Speke's discovery of, 405, 406; level of the, 408 —— Nyassa, or Kilwa, i. 316, 317; ii. 421 —— Tanganyika (Sea of Ujiji), Burton starts for, i. 253, 296; first sight of, 298; beauty of, 298; Burton explores, 302, 303; history of, 305, 306; of volcanic origin, 318; position of, 407, 408, 462, 465; resembles the Dead Sea, 542; Burton's discovery of, ii. 11, 421; 38, 39, 46, 569, 571 Lakki Hills, legend of the, ii. 63 Lamarck, ii. 462 Lambros, R., letter describing the Arabic Library at Damascus, i. 481-483 Lanauli, ii. 521 Lane, Mr., "Modern Egyptians" and magic, ii. 142, 144, 145; his edition of the "Arabian Nights," 283, 288, 624 Languages, Burton's method of learning, i. 81; studied by Burton in India, 122, 123, 159 Lanslebourg, i. 461 Larkána, i. 146; ii. 68 Larking, Mr. J., i. 169, 170, 458; ii. 162 Las Casas, Count, i. 8 Latin, English pronunciation of, i. 83 Lausanne, Burton at, ii. 370, 375; Gibbon at, 371; Voltaire at, 371, 375 Lavigérie, Cardinal, ii. 389 Lavino, Mr. H., ii. 253 Lavradio, Countess, i. 417 Law, Mr. and Lady A., i. 470 Lawlin, Captain, i. 372 Lawrence, Lord, ii. 522, 538 Layard, Sir H., i. 376 Layard, Lady, ii. 222 Lazzaroni, i. 49, 51 Lebanon, a trip in, i. 524-528 Lecture, Burton's last, at Geneva, ii. 365 Lee, Sir E., ii. 392 Lefebre, Dr. F., on somnambulism, i. 143 Leghorn, i. 35, 36 Leicester Post, note on the "Scented Garden" from the, ii. 444 Leigh, Miss E., the clairvoyant, ii. 148 Leighton, Sir F., painted Sir R. Burton, i. 596; ii. 49 Leiningen, Prince of, i. 235 Lejeune, Louis, history of, i. 2, 12 Lennox-Berkeley, Major, i. 236 Lentaigne, Mr., the convict philanthropist, i. 396; ii. 331 Léon, Edwin de, article on Burton by, ii. 268 Leontes, river, i. 506 Leslie, Dr., with Burton, ii. 338-351 Lesseps, Baron Ferdinand de, ii. 130, 605 Letchford, Mr. A., painted Sir R. Burton and his house, ii. 377, 397; painted Sir R. Burton after death, 415 Letters on Burton's recall from Damascus, from the Press, i. 537-540, 580-584 Lever, Mr. C., his grave, ii. 408; his Irish squires like the Hungarians, 506 Levick, Mr., ii. 129; letter to Burton on gold in Midian, 178; death of, 354 Lewis, George, ii. 283 Leyden, ii. 361 Libanus, an excursion to the, i. 493, 495-497 Liebman, Professor, ii. 225, 226 Lief ben Saied's visit to the African Lakes, ii. 39 Lienz, a visit to, ii. 321, 368, 399 Lieulafait, Lewis, on diamonds, ii. 523 Life, cutting from, describing Burton at Trieste, ii. 269 Lingmálá, cinchona at, ii. 103 Lipizza, ii. 30 Liprandi, General, i. 229 Lisa, ii. 310, 347, 388, 397; returns home, 420 Lisbon, i. 416, 417 Lisle, Mr. J., ii. 369 Littai mines in Krain, ii. 212 Little Irons, African malady, i. 322 Liverpool Mercury, paragraph respecting Sir Richard Burton in the, ii. 397 Livingstone, Dr., i. 296 n., 365 n.; on gold-diggings near Tete, 366, 367, 367 n.; his disappearance, 462; his discovery of the Nile, 463, 464; ii. 38, 46; the greatest explorer, 39 Londonderry, Lord, i. 470; and Abd el Kadir, 486 Lord, Henry, ii. 525 Lords, House of, Indian princes in the, ii. 531 Loretto, a pilgrimage to, ii. 20 Louis XIV. and the Burton family, i. 12, 397 Lovett-Cameron, V.C., Captain, ii. 222 Lowe, Sir Hudson, i. 7 Lowman, Mr., at the Gold Coast, ii. 230, 231 Lucan, Lord, i. 229 Lucca, Baths of, i. 63, 65 Lucerne, ii. 359, 360, 375 Lucetta, i. 312 Lucretius, ii. 140 Luddah Damha, i. 280; ii. 569, 571 Ludlow, Edward, at Vevey, ii. 368-371 Ludwig Salvator, Archduke, ii. 346, 398 Lufu, river, i. 269 Lunge and cut in carte, i. 164 "Lusiads," ii. 181 Lyons, i. 460 ——, Gulf of, bad weather in the, ii. 313-315 Lythegoe, Father Randal, ii. 414 n. Lytton, Lady, in Lisbon, i. 416 M Maartens, Maarten, lines by, ii. 437, 445 Mabruki, i. 303; and his slave, 307 Macaulay, Lord, on rice, i. 294; ii. 547 MacDurdo, Captain, i. 155 MacFarlane's "Turkey and her Destiny," ii. 510 Machunda, Sultan, i. 314, 315 Macgregor, Duncan, lines by, i. 97 Maclagan, Dr., ii. 177 Maclaren, Archibald, i. 73 Maclean, Mr., ii. 79, 99, 527 n. Macleod, Mary, lines by, ii. 450 Macmahon, Sir T., i. 102 MacMahon, General, i. 227 MacMurdo, General, i. 161 MacNaghten, Mr., i. 95 Macpherson, Mr., ii. 288 Macqueen, Mr., on the Sources of the Nile, i. 312 n., 319; on the exportation of gold, 370; on Speke's expedition, 408; ii. 39 Madeira, i. 57; in 1863, 378, 379 Mad Said, i. 206, 207 Magic mirror, the, ii. 146, 148 Magyars, in Austria, ii. 500; in Hungary, 505; resemble the Irish Roman Catholics, 506; three orders of, 507 Máhábáleshwar, a sanitarium at, ii. 102, 103 Mahábhârat on the soul, ii. 473 Maharatta wars, great Englishmen connected with the, ii. 84 Maharattas, a new sect amongst the, ii. 99 Mahdi, ii. 600, 601 Mahmoud of Ghazni, i. 117 Mahmoud Shah, Emperor, ii. 95 Maier, Josef, ii. 188 Maizan, M., i. 257, 258, 326 Major, Mr., ii. 39, 106, 114 Makám Ibrahim (place of Abraham), i. 484 Makam Sayyid Sulayman, i. 265 Makata river, i. 284 Malachi, i. 361 Malagarázi, river, i. 291, 295; ii. 38; not navigable, i. 296; the alluvial valley of the, 299 Malakoff, i. 241 Malavaux, i. 459 Malcolm, Sir J., ii. 84, 102 Malcolm, Admiral Sir C., i. 102, 103 Malcolmson, J., on diamonds, ii. 527 Malet, Mr., and the slave-trade, ii. 204 Maloja, a drive to, ii. 402, 403 Malta, ii. 382-386, 504, 550; Fort St. Elmo in, 384; effect of, from the sea, 386 Man who wins, the, i. 353 Manchester Courier on Sir Richard Burton, ii. 299 Mandal, ii. 144 n. Mandina-land, gold in, i, 372 Mango tree, i. 326 Manhora, ii. 62 Manica, ruins of, i. 366 Manning, Cardinal, letter of condolence to Lady Burton, ii. 434 Mansûr el Hallâj, i. 186; ii. 467 Mansfield, General, i. 232 Manson, Lieutenant R. A., i. 124, 139 Mantidæ, i. 206 Maps of Africa, Burton's sketch map, i. 254, 410-415 Marabut Passage, the, ii. 593, 594 Marar Prairie, i. 204, 214 Marathon, ii. 547 Maraungu river, Speke's theories about the, i. 407 Marc Aurelius, ii. 464 March in India, a, i. 124, 125, 139 Marchesetti, Dr., on botany in India, ii. 520 Marcionites, heresy of the, i. 191 n. Marcovitch, Louis, ii. 417, 418 Maria Theresa, ex-Queen of Spain, ii. 33, 34 Maria-Zell, the Austrian Lourdes, ii. 379, 380 Maríenbad, the cure at, ii. 221; the Burtons at, 238, 275 Marocco, Burton applies for the Consulate at, ii. 297, 312; what the Press said about it, 298-302; Mr. K. Green appointed, 324 Maronites, i. 501, 520; a stranger's reception by the, 520-522 Maroro, i. 325 Marriage amongst East African tribes, ii. 581, 582 Marryat, Captain, i. 23 Marsa, ii. 384, 388 Marseille, i. 53; ii. 395 Martin, Sir R., i. 361 Marungu, river, i. 306; ii. 38 Masáwwah, ii. 54, 562, 563 Masher, Burton and an Oxford, ii. 49; Gilbert and a, 49 n. Mashinga, gold-washing in, i. 367 Maspero, M., ii. 599 Massey, Gerald, lines to R. Burton, ii. 184 Massey, Mr., ii. 156 Matapan, ii. 593 Materialists, ii. 465 Mátherán, the villages near it, ii. 81; officers' sanitorium at, 82 Mattei, Count, his cure, ii. 247, 248-250; his castle, 248 Matter, ii. 473, 474 Matteucci, Mme., i. 64 Matthews, Mrs., i. 4 Maude, Colonel, and Burton's manuscript, i. 280 n. Maximilian, the Emperor, ii. 7, 19 Máyá, i. 139, 194; ii. 139, 476 Mayo, Lord, ii. 522, 538 Mazai, a plundering race, i. 268 Mazeppa, ii. 551 Mazita, i. 316 n., 319 Mazrui, Arab tribe, i. 260 Mbhali, i. 294 McCarthy, Mr. J., jun., ii. 285 McCarthy, J. H., sonnet to Burton by, ii. 431 M'Leod, Mr. Lyons, on gold at Matuka, i. 365 n., 366 Mdáburu jungle, the, i. 288, 324 Mdaduru, i. 324 Meade, Sir R. and Lady, ii. 86-88 Meanee, battle of, i. 116, 137, 144; ii. 66, 481, 484; lesson of the, i. 141 Mecca, i. 175; Burton's journey to, 169, 170, 175-181; ii. 6, 11, 13, 301; observances at, i. 175; at night, 176; Lady Burton near, ii. 55 Medinah, Burton's visit to, i. 173, 174, 182; ii. 6, 11 "Meditations of a Hindu Prince," i. 176 Mekhitarists, ii. 593 Mekrami, i. 265 Melhem Beg Ahmad, i. 507 Melvill, Cosmo, official letters to Burton from, ii. 567, 574, 576 Mendelssohn, ii. 369 Menin Helbon, i. 484 Mentone, earthquake at, ii. 339 Menu on the body, ii. 468 Mermillod, Archbishop, ii. 374 Merv, ii. 538 Mess dinners in India, 1842, i. 107, ii. 112 Meteors at São Paulo, i. 429 Methone, ii. 593 Metternich, Mr. O. von, ii. 501 Metz, General, i. 242 Mganga (medicine man) in Africa, i. 270; ii. 587 Mgeta, river, i. 325 Mgunda Mk'hali, game in, i. 288, 289 Midian, gold mines in, ii. 55, 122; minerals in, 122, 126; the district of, 126; mines of, 228; Mr. Johns and the, 228 Milan, ii. 52, 282; raises a monument to Napoleon III., 499 Milton, ii. 468, 473 Minerals, in the desert, i. 497; in Egypt, ii. 122; in Midian, 126; from Midian assayed, 161 Miniature portrait of Sir Richard, i. 340 Mir Jumla, finder of the Koh-i-noor, ii. 94 Miracle play, a Moslem, ii. 76-78 Mirage, a, i. 474 Miramar, ii. 7, 19, 31, 117 Mirambo, i. 321 n. Mirza Ali Akbar Khan Bahadur, i. 144; ii. 79; badly treated by the English, ii. 62 Mirza Dáud, i. 144 Mirza Hosayn, or Musayn, 148; i. 144, 145, 158 Mission to Damascus, testimonial to Burton sent by the, i. 565; his reply, 566, 567 Missionaries from the Cameroon Mountains at Burton's grave, i. 385 n.; of the British Syrian schools, slanders circulated by, 600 Missionary, an amateur, i. 528, 529 —— in Damascus, an account of Burton by a, i. 577-580 Mitylene, ii. 557 Mizzeh, i. 483 Mkomafi, affluent, i. 269 Moab, i. 515 Mocha, trade at, ii. 562, 563 Mohammed, the boy, i. 172, 176 —— the successors of, ii. 77; on slavery, 209 Mohammed Agha, i. 473 Mohammed Ali Pasha, in Egypt, i. 137, 362 n.; ii. 548, 550, 557, 600 Mohammed Kuli, Sultan, ii. 89, 90 Mohammed "Mucklá," i. 137 Mohammedan mystery, a, i. 546, 547 Mombas, i. 260 Monckton Milnes, Miss, wedding of, ii. 236 Monfalcone, baths of, ii. 189, 190; a village dance at, 214; a visit to, 1883, 253 Monkeys, in India, Burton's experiment with, i. 160; ii. 82; in Africa, i. 264; near the Usagára Mountains, 283; a caged one in Trieste, ii. 378 n. "Monomotapa," meaning of the word, i. 365 n. Monselice, ii. 36 Monson, Sir E., ii. 411 Monsoon, in Gujerat, i. 122, 138; in Bombay, 124, 139; meaning of the word, 138 n.; in Fuga, 271; in Karágwah, 320 Montalba family, ii. 52 Monte Carlo, ii. 339 Montefiore, Sir Moses, i. 533; his injustice to Burton, i. 572 Montenegro, ii. 507, 547, 553 ——, the Prince of, ii. 173 Monte Rua, ii. 36 Monte Santo, ii. 120 Monte Video, i. 51 Montêt, Messrs. de, ii. 366, 375 Montmorency, Countess of, i. 2, 12 Montreux, ii. 372, 373 Moore, Sir J., i. 3 Moors, the, in Kasîdah, ii. 472 Moplahs, i. 149; ii. 516 Morgan, Lieut.-Colonel, i. 236 Morgan, Miss, i. 46, 47 Morning Post, Burton's letter on Home Rule from the, ii. 306; Lady Burton's letter on Sir Richard's illness to the, 398 Morpurgo, Baron, and family kind friends to the Burtons, ii. 4, 211, 217, 237, 238; prepares a fête for the Emperor of Austria, 239, 240; a masquerade given by, 245; a sea trip with the Burtons, 377 Morrice, Major, ii. 289 Morro Velho, the great mine at, i. 443, 444 Morse, General, i. 113 Mortlake, Burton's tomb at, ii. 431 Moser, Dr. Karl, ii. 166 Moses, i. 186 n.; and the Hebrew Pentateuch, ii. 466, 471; ignores future rewards and punishments, 468 Moses' Wells, ii. 116 Moslem, Shádili Order of, i. 549-551; divisions of the, 550; converted to Christianity, 551, 552; sects in Damascus, 574; feuds amongst the, ii. 76 Moslem heavens, ii. 64 Mott, General, removed the Somnath gates, i. 117 Mott, Mrs. Mentor, i. 599 Mountains, Cameroon, explored by Burton, ii. 6, 13; Cenis, pass of, i. 460, 461; Dákwah, 517; Elephant, 386; Fuga, 269; Hermon, 508; Kilma-ngao, 313 n., 318, 319; Kong, 361, 372, 374: Lunar, 299, 318; Speke's theories of the Moon, 301, 407; Mashinga, 366; Nanos, ii. 32; Schneeberg, expedition up the, 34; Schwarzhorn, 402 Mouravieff, General, i. 243 Mpete, malarious, i. 298 Msene, i. 291, 294 Msimbira, Sultan, i. 294 Msiky Mguru, i. 268 Muata Cazembe, i. 461, 462 Muhama nullah, i. 284 Muhárram, feast of, ii. 76 Muhayya, Sultan, i. 314 Muigni Khatib, i. 263 Muigni Wazira, African guide, i. 266, 267-270 Muingwira river, the, i. 317 Muinyi Chandi, i. 294 Muktara, i. 507 Mukumbara Mountains, i. 269 Mules in Brazil, i. 440 Mulhem Rustam, Emir, i. 508 Mullan, Mr., the publisher, ii. 162; death of, 189 Mungo Park on gold, i. 372 Munich, ii. 1, 2, 188 Murad Ali, i. 273 Murchison, Sir E., the discoveries in Africa, i. 296, 328, 462; in gold, 361, 362, 462; his injustice to Sir Richard, 463, 464, 593; his death, 594 Murray, Admiral, i. 76 Murray, Grenville, i. 234 Murray, Lady, fancy-dress ball at Cannes, ii. 334 Mürzüschlag, ii. 378 Musa, ii. 588 Musa Mzuri, his kindness to Burton, i. 290; returns to Kazeh, 321 Musaylimah, ii. 491 Mushajjar, ii. 134 n. Music, bar of, ii. 169; in Scinde, 490, 491 Mustafa Bey, bigotry of, i. 560 Musurus Pasha, i. 596 Mzegura, Chief, i. 268 Mzizi Maogo, a healthy climate, i. 282, 283 N Nabi Baruh, Convent of, i. 520 Nachtigall, death of, ii. 281 Nadir Shah, ii. 95, 535 Nahr el Kowwáyyik wrongly placed on the maps, i. 526 Namik Pasha, Wali of the Hejaz, ii. 516-518 Nana Sahib (born at Narel), ii. 81, 83 Náo Mall, i. 147; murdered Anderson, 151 Napier, Sir Charles, i. 108, 116, 117; his dispute with Major Outram, 116-118; his character, 118; and Staff at Sind, 127; 129; appointed to the command at Sind, 131; his victories, 137; his appearance, 140; appointed to the command at Poonah, 141; his poverty, 141; his skill as an inventor, 142; a newspaper started by his friends, 145; Burton on his Staff, 159-162; his love of decision, 161; his model officer, 228; as a chief, 247 n.; his method of fighting, ii. 66; his views on the Indian army, 70 Napier, Sir William, i. 140; "Conquest of Scinde" by, 141 Napier and Ettrick, Lord, i. 231 Napier of Magdala, Lord, ii. 73; his departure from Bombay, 98 Napier, John, letter from, to General Scott, i. 146 Napier, Captain, on board the Triton, i. 419, 420 Naples, i. 44, 46, 51; English Society in, 47; cholera in, 51; in 1886, ii. 313, 315 Napoleon I., his death, i. 5; his life at St. Helena, 6, 7; cast of his head taken by Francis Burton, 6, 9, 10; his hair preserved in the Burton family, 9; sequel to the story of the Burton relics of, 11 Napoleon III., i. 226, 229, 244, 486; ii. 499; made use of England, 539 Nasif Meshaka, Mr., letter to Burton from, i. 502, 532 Nats, ii. 82 Nautch, a, i. 113, 124 Naval Club, Royal, dinner given in Burton's honour by the, ii. 236 Navy, the Indian, i. 102 Nazareth, i. 543 Négri, Christoforo, ii. 52 Negro, the, in Sierra Leone, i. 350-354, 356, 357, 359; in Brazil, 430; a —— magnetizer, ii. 149 Neil, Brigadier T. G., i. 239 Neuberg, ii. 379 Neville, Colonel and Mrs., ii. 40, 86-89 Newbold, Captain, on diamonds, ii. 527, 530 Newcastle, Duke of, i. 236 Newman, Cardinal, i. 76, 77, 545 Newman, F. H. W., ii. 460 Newton, Sir Isaac, i. 577 Nice, ii. 395, 396 Nicholas, Emperor, i. 233 Nicholas, Grand Duke, ii. 537 Nicholson, Admiral, ii. 251 Nicolaus of Damascus, i. 484 Nicora, Dr., i. 227 Nifon, Greek Bishop, unscrupulous, i. 543, 570, 573; Burton wins his action against, 595, 596 Niger, river, i. 296 n., 360; silver near the, 371 n. Nile, White, Speke's supposed discovery of the Sources of the, i. 312, 313; 319 n., 320; Burton's theories of the, 404, 407, 408; Speke's journey to the, 405; Burton's travels led to the discovery of the Sources of, 462-466; Mr. Findlay's letter on the, ii. 38-40 Nimrod, legend of, i. 523; ii. 479 n. "Nip," death of, ii. 118 Nirvânâ, i. 195; ii. 466, 476 Niven, Dr. and Mrs., ii. 375 Nolan, Captain, i. 229, 230 Northbrook, Lord, in India, ii. 73, 522, 538 Notes and Queries on Louis Lejeune, i. 12, 13 Novalis, the Christ of, ii. 457 Novikoff, Mme. Olga de, ii. 221 Nubar Pasha, ii. 180, 196 O Ober-Ammergau, the journey from Venice to, ii. 186; the Passion Play at, 187, 188 Oberdank, the bomb-thrower, ii. 244 O'Callaghan, Rev. Robert, ii. 3, 33 Ode composed when Persia was invaded by Taimur, i. 528 Officers, English, in India, i. 119, 120 Ogham "Runes," ii. 134 n. Ogilvie, Mr., Consul in Jeddah, ii. 516 Ogilvie, Lieutenant, i. 238 "Oh, when wilt thou return?" i. 375 Oldham, the brothers, i. 48 Oliphant, Laurence, i. 327; ii. 51; his Mosallam, ii. 393; his advice to Speke, 424; a mischief-maker, 425, 557 Oliver, Captain, R.N., i. 103 Omar Beg, Mme, pets of, i. 478 Omar Bey and his mare, i. 541 Omar-i-Khayyám, i. 186 Omar Pasha at Kars, i. 242 Onslow, Guildford, i. 30 Opçina, village of, ii. 15, 16; Daneu's Inn at, 17; the Burtons at, 35, 118, 132, 243, 244, 341, 344; sharks at, 119; life at, 166; excursions from, 175; charity to a Capuchin, 185, 186; a village ball at, 211; a dog at, 278; the Burtons entertain the British Squadron at, 215, 216 Ootacamund, i. 148, 149 Oratava, 1863, i. 380 O'Reilly, Colonel, i. 236, 247 Orford, Lady, ii. 23, 331 Oriel College, i. 80 Ormiston, Mr. ii. 81 Orsay, Count D', i. 9, 63 Osborne, Bernal, i. 243 Ossian on the camel-driver, ii. 468 Ostrich race in India, ii. 88 Ottoman Empire, ii. 510; and England, 511; English subjects under the, 512 Ouida, i. 519; ii. 23 Oural Mountains, i. 361, 362 n. Ouro Preto, i. 443 Outram, Sir J., i. 108, 116, 117, 141; his character, 118; 142, 143, 198; at Kotir, ii. 65 Owen, Captain, i. 277 Owl in India, ii. 482, 482 n. Oxford, Burton at, 1840, i. 69-82, 89; Burton left, 91, 153; he revisits, ii. 48, 323, 329 P Padongo tribe, i. 317, 319 Padua, ii. 36 Page, Mr. T., ii. 21, 22; murdered in Jeddah, 516 Paget, Sir A. and Lady, ii. 21, 275 Paget, Lord William, i. 56 Palanquin, travelling in a, i. 132 Palermo, ii. 133 Palestine, the future of, ii. 548; return of the Jews to, 549 Paley, T., letter to Burton upon the Persæ, ii. 158 Palgrave, Mr., i. 180, 501 Pallagio, ii. 37 Pall Mall Gazette, letter to the, on Pantagruelism, ii. 291; notice of Burton's letter on Home Rule in the, 306 Palmer, Professor, i. 232, 478, 500; on Burton's recall from Damascus, 580; his disappearance, ii. 242; the search for, 242, 608; his murderers punished, 246; his grave, 247, 613; his talents and work, 609, 610; his last journey, 611; his murder, 612 Palmerston, Lord, i. 32, 225, 226, 233, 244; gives a party in Burton's honour, 345; and Turkey, ii. 511; his mistakes, 539, 548; rebuked by the Crown, 540; 545 Palmyra, or Tadmor, i. 69; Burton determines to visit, 470; the difficulties, 471; the first sight of, 475, 476; the journey to Damascus from, 476-479 Palmyra s.s. carries the remains of Sir Richard to Austria, ii. 427, 429 Pangany, i. 262, 263; on the way to, 272, 274 —— river, falls of the, i. 273 Panjim, New Goa, ii. 106 Panmure, Lord, i. 246 Pannah, diamond mines of, ii. 528, 529 Panther, a pet, i. 505, 506 Papadopulos, M., i. 481-483 Papataci, i. 427 Papworth, Mr., models a bust of Speke, i. 389, 390, 403 Paracelsus, ii. 140 Paraguay, Burton's book on, i. 453 Paraguayan War, scarcity of provisions in Brazil during the, i. 433 Paray le Monial, ii. 282 Parenzo, Cathedral of, ii. 377 Pareto, Signor, ii. 21, 22 Paris, Treaty of, 1856, i. 244; broken, ii. 507, 510 Paris, at the last Fête Napoleon, i. 459; ii. 52; 1875, 496; dreamt of revenge, 498; Anglo-American, 1876, 499 Parsee charnel-house on Towers of Silence, ii. 97, 98 Parthenope, i. 50 Paskievich, ii. 501 Pau, i. 55-57 Pavangarh, hill of, i. 136 Payer, Lieutenant, ii. 508 Payne, Mr. J., an edition of the "Arabian Nights" by, ii. 284, 287, 441 Peel, Mr., in Oxford, i. 75 Pélissier, General, i. 230, 241 Pellegrini, Carlo, ii. 51, 294, 374 Pelly, Sir Louis, ii. 70 Pemba, i. 259 Pender Cudlip, Mrs., ii. 43 Pentamerone of Basili, ii. 334, 454 Pentapolis, proposed railway through the, ii. 607 Perdicarius, M., his home, ii. 303; Mohammed Benoni, by, 357 Pernambuco, i. 418 Perrier, Casimir, i. 25 Perry, Sir W., ii. 3 Persia, ii. 535 Persian merchants at Jeddah, ii. 56 Perugia, an evening in, i. 39, 40 Peterson, Mr. and Mrs., ii. 84 Petherick, Consul, and Speke, i. 408, 457 Petrarch, tomb and house of, ii. 36; 499, 503 Petropolis, i. 440 Pfalbauten, ii. 167 Pharphar, river of, i. 484, 512 Phiala, Lake, i. 511, 511 n., 543 Phillips, Rev. M., i. 92 Pictorial World, note on Captain Burton from the, ii. 298 Pig-sticking in Baroda, i. 109 Pigafetta, ii. 37, 39 Pigott, Miss Blanche, with Mrs. Burton, ii. 237, 254 Pilatus, Mount, ii. 359 Pilfold, Lieutenant, i. 102 Pilgrim-ships from Jeddah, ii. 58-60, 515 Pillaw in Africa, i. 294 Pinalli, Dr., ii. 36 Pinqua d'Agua mistaken for diamonds, i. 449 Pinjrapole, animal hospital in Bombay, ii. 100 Pino, Baron, ii. 119, 120; transferred to Linz, 174, 177, 222 Pisa, i. 36, 37; climate in, 36, 61; Burton's life in, 61, 62 Pitt, i. 577; relics of, at Bromley Holwood, ii. 365 Planina, ii. 378 Plato, i. 191 n. Poison amongst negroes in Brazil, i. 452 Polygamy in India, ii. 486 Polytechnic, Burton's travels in Mecca at the, i. 398 Pompeii, i. 48, 49 Poonah, i. 122; journey from Karla to, ii. 83; at Poonah, 84 Pope, Lieutenant, i. 84 Pope, on a friend, i. 329; on good and evil, ii. 471; on error, 475 Popes, logic of the, ii. 504 Porters in Africa, i. 291, 307 Portugal, the Burtons in, i. 416, 417 Portuguese, in search of gold, sixteenth century, i. 363; at Yatur, 367 n.; in Goa, ii. 107 Pot and potter theory of life, ii. 468 Pottinger, Sir Henry, i. 399 Praed, Mrs. Campbell, ii. 394 Prayer, answers to, ii. 409 Preedy, Captain, i. 127 Press, note by the, on Burton, ii. 229; notes by the, on Sir R. Burton's pension, 326-328; reviews of the "Arabian Nights," 617 Pretis, Barton de, ii. 237 Prevald, an excursion to, ii. 32 Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, Lady Burton's efforts for the Society for the, ii. 8, 127, 225, 243, 293, 427 Primrose, Colonel Everard, ii. 134, 167, 217; goes to the Soudan, 277; death of, 277, 281 Primrose, Lady, i. 2, 12, 13 Prongs, lighthouse at, ii. 81 Propertius, ii. 461 Protestantism, in India, 1840, i. 103; converts to, in Syria, 559; case of Hajj Hassan, 559-562, 565, 566; case of Hammud, 561, 562 Provence, i. 35 Proverbs, African, collected by Burton, i. 387 Prussia, ii. 497; and Trieste, 502, 503 Pryce-Harrison, Mrs., i. 11 Ptolemy, geography of, ii. 39 Pullen, Captain, of the Cyclops, ii. 516-518 Punány, i. 148 Punch on Mrs. Burton's letters to the Times and Athenæum, i. 466 Pusey, Dr., i. 77 Pushkin, ii. 547 Pusiano, ii. 282 Puy, the descent to, i. 460 Puységur, Marquis de, discovered hypnotism, ii. 144 Q Quaritch, Mr. B., ii. 182, 297 Queen, the Jubilee in Trieste, ii. 341-344; grants Lady Burton a pension, 430 Queen newspaper, chaff from the, ii. 262 Quoz, ii. 402 R Races in Baroda, i. 113, 137 Ragatz, ii. 401 Raglan, Lord, in the Crimea, i. 228, 229, 238, 241 Rahewat, the Mekrani, i. 266 Rajah's treatment of ryots who found gold, i. 365 n. Rakb, i. 174 Ralstone, Mrs., sudden death from yellow fever, i. 432 Ramjie Banyan, i. 280; ii. 569, 573 Ramsgate, i. 88 Ranken, G. Elliot, death of, ii. 381 Rao Machi, battle at, ii. 82 Ras Raschíd, i. 261 Rashíd et Bóstají, a faithful Druze, i. 517 Rashíd, Pasha, Wali at Syria, i. 237, 469, 481; rule of the, 494, 497, 502; his intrigue with the Druzes, 517, 518; his treatment of Christian converts, 554, 555, 557, 559, 560; his recall, 570, 576, 584, 598; his enmity to Burton, 571, 572; his injustice and rapacity, 574, 581, 582; his short triumph, 586; thanks Mrs. Burton for her conduct to the Shaykh's son, 601 Rathborne, Colonel, letter to Burton, ii. 245 Rathborne, Mr., i. 145 Rauf Pasha, i. 559; ii. 60; his cruelties, 194; sent to stop the slave-trade, 195 Rawlinson, Sir H., i. 244 Raymond, General, ii. 87 Reade, Charles, i. 596; his hero and martyr, 604, 605; his death, ii. 274; lines by, 415 Reade, Winwood, i. 395; a ghost story told by, 592; his illness and death, ii. 43, 44 Réclus, Élisée, ii. 374, 375 Recoaro, ii. 36, 37 "Recorder," the, ii. 283 Red Sea, the, ii. 53; slavery in the, 518, 519, 563, 564 Reece, Mr., i. 260 Reed, on board the, i. 218 Reich, fencing-master, ii. 226; suicide of, 246 Reid, Mayne, Captain, ii. 271 Reinisch, Dr., details of the slave-trade given by, i. 194, 198 Reptiles in Brazil, i. 427 Revival of Christianity in Syria, Fray Emanuel Förner and the, i. 546, 547, 552, 555; Drake's letter on the, 583, 584 Rey, Rio del, i. 360 Rhapta, i. 363 n. Rhine, the, i. 85 Riaz Pasha, ii. 195; his policy, 196; his slights to Gordon, 196; revives the slave-trade in Egypt, 197-200; his circulars on the slave-trade, 201-205, 206 Ribandar, a convent near Goa, ii. 109 Richards, A. Bates, i. 4, 15, 73, 91; his article on Burton in the World, ii. 4, 10; on Burton and Speke, etc., 11-15; President of dinner at the Licensed Victuallers given to Burton, 49 Richmond, Burton family at, i. 28 Rigby, Major-General, at Zanzibar, i. 324, 327; contradicts Burton at a meeting, 593; his death, ii. 281; injustice to Burton, 424; report on Burton's expedition, 567-573 Rigi, ii. 359 Rio de Janeiro, i. 418, 439 Riviera, the, ii. 395, 396 Robin, a drowning, ii. 409 Rogers, Bey, death of, ii. 281 Rollet, M. Brun, i. 319 Romany, an Indian race, ii. 82 Rome, i. 41-43; Holy Week, 1833, in, 42, 43; ii. 21 Roumelia, ii. 547; Eastern policy of, 554 Römerbad, friends in, ii. 168 Rosetti, Gabriel, ii. 226 Rossi, Dr., on Egyptian sorcery, ii. 144 Rossi, the Italian master, ii. 119, 120 Roth, Herr Gottfried, his efforts to stop the slave-trade, ii. 199, 200, 202; an attempt to silence him, 205 Rousseau, J. J., on falsehood, i. 435, 469 Rousselets, Mr. L., on the mines of Pannah, ii. 528; on diamonds, 530 Roustan, M., ii. 211 Rubáiyat, the, i. 184 Rubeho, hospitality at, i. 286 Rubuga, visit from an Arab merchant at, i. 289, 323 Ruche, river, i. 307 Rudolf of Hapsburg, Prince, i. 544; ii. 25, 211, 212, 356; his death, 375; his tomb, 381 Rufij, river, i. 321, 326 Rufuta, i. 284 Rúmá, i. 372 Rumuna, bad climate of, i. 286 Runjeet Singh, i. 117; ii. 96 Rusizi, river, i. 302, 306, 407; Stanley's account of the, ii. 38 Russell, Lord J., appoints Burton to Fernando Po, i. 344; his views on gold, i. 362 n., 386; sends Burton to Dahomè, 381; commends Burton, 385 Russell, W. H., in the Crimea, i. 246 Russia and India, ii. 318; paragraph from Lady Burton's book about, 320; and France, 1876, 498; in 1848-49, 507; M. Vambéry and, 508; in Asia, 510, 540, 541, 548; prepared to invade India, 1791, 535, 538; her management of the trans-Caucasian provinces, 536; railways built by, 537; her change of plan, 1869, 541; invaded Khiva, 542; and China, 543; and Turkey in Asia, 548; her sympathy with Armenia, 556 Russian spy on a pilgrim-boat, ii. 59 Rustam, ii. 484 Ruxton, Miss, i. 31-33 Rwaha, river, i. 326 Ryan, Dr., i. 101, 107, 130 S Sa'ad, Shaykh, i. 174 Sabatier, Mr., account of the massacre in Jeddah, ii. 516-518 Safvet Pasha (Count Kossichsky), ii. 121, 123 Sagrado, ii. 214 Said bin Salim, i. 259, 262, 264, 274, 278, 289, 300, 307; ii. 568, 569; dishonesty of, i. 280; selfishness of, 289; untrustworthy, 291; incivility of, 296; difficulties with, 309; carelessness of, 323; discontent of, 327; false statements of, ii. 572 Saidnaya, convent of, i. 484 Said, Port, English friends at, ii. 53 Said of Zanzibar, the, i. 258, 259 St. Arnaud, Maréchal de, i. 228 Saint Augustine, ii. 459, 460; Burton's favourite motto from, i. xi.; quotation from, i. 184 n. St. Helena, house used by Napoleon at, i. 8; signal book used during his sojourn at, i. 7 St. James's Gazette, notice of the "Arabian Nights," ii. 290 Saint John, Mr., i. 43 St. Malo, i. 22, 23 St. Maurice, convent at, ii. 361; its treasures, 373 Saint Paul, ii. 140 St. Peter's, Austria, ii. 356 St. Vincent, i. 418 Sakakini, M. Jules, ii. 209 n. Sakhar, i. 146; second visit to, ii. 66; climate of, 73, 76 Sala, Comte della, appointed to suppress the slave-trade, ii. 201, 202, 204; his work, 205 Sala Mascondi, murdered at Jeddah, ii. 517 Salahíyyah, i. 470; Lady Burton leaving, 588; untrue reports of, 605 Salaman, Dr., ii. 69 Salamiyyeh, i. 525 Salar Jung, Sir, ii. 86; his palace, 86, 87; his kindness, 530 Saleh, ii. 403, 404 Salih, letter on Burton by a missionary in Damascus, i. 490 Salim bin Rashid, i. 315, 316 n., 321; ii. 586, 587 Salim bin Said, hospitality of, i. 294 Salim bin Salih, i. 308 Salisbury, Lord, offers a K.C.M.G. to Burton, ii. 311; and the alliance with China, 318-320 Salt Lake City, Burton visits the, i. 338; ii. 6, 12-14 Salt-mines in Austria, ii. 220 Salusbury's, Dr., treatment, ii. 349 Salzburg, ii. 220; scientific meeting at, 220 Samäden, extortion at, ii. 402 Sambúk, a pilgrim-boat, i. 173 San Bartolo, ii. 31, 119 San Daniell, ii. 175 San Francisco river, the, i. 446, 449 San Lourenço, Hindu Goa, ii. 106 San Paulo, journey up to, i. 421; Burton's literary work at, 436 Sandstorm at Gharra, i. 128, 129 Sandwith, Mr., ii. 44 Sanitaria in India, importance of, ii. 102 Sanitaria in Bombay, 1843, i. 102 Santos, Brazil, voyage from Rio to, i. 419; the town, 420; its disadvantages, 421; a regatta at, 453 Santos, Marchesa de, i. 432 Santos, São Paulo, i. 415 Sányasi, burial alive, i. 160, 161 Sardanapolis, ii. 467 Sartoris, Mrs., i. 459 Sassoon, marriage of Mr. and Mrs. A., ii. 4; family, 98 Sauerbrunn, Rohitsch-, Burton at, ii. 276; notes on, 347, 350; thunderstorm at, 348 Savile, Charles, i. 47 Sawahilis, impudence of the, to Europeans, i. 259; change produced by Colonel Hamerton, 259 Sawakin Moslem, the, ii. 57; slave-trade at, 563 Sáwantwádi, mutiny in, i. 143 Sayyid el Amidi, murders Mr. Page, ii. 516 Sayyid Majid, Sultan, i. 327 Sayyid Said, i. 265; a trick with French silver, 366 n. Scandinavian Fate-spinners, ii. 472 Scarlett, General, i. 229 "Scented Garden," controversy on, ii. 438, 440; Burton's work in the, 441; spurious edition of the, 443 n., 445; the copyist's opinion of the, 444 Schamyl, Prince, i. 243, 244 Schapira, Rev. Mr., ii. 30, 296 Schiller, ii. 469 Schlangenbad, i. 87 Schlieman, Dr., of Troy, ii. 352 Schloss Sternstein, the Burtons at, ii. 316 Schmidt, Mme., ii. 247, 248 Schomberg, Duke of, and a cat, ii. 143 Schopenhauer, i. 139; ii. 468, 471 Schuhardt, Professor, ii. 378 Schuyler, M., ii. 508 "Scinde; or, the Unhappy Valley," written, i. 140, 158, 159 Scinde, food in, ii. 488; children in, 489, 490; a musician in, 490, 491; music in, 492; effect of a musical snuff-box in, 493, 494 Scorpions, in Syria, i. 511, 516; at Ugogi, 292 Scott, Lord John, i. 78 Scott, Mr. Orr, missionary, letter expressing his admiration of Captain Burton, i. 537 Scott, Colonel Walter, i. 125, 126, 140, 143, 145, 155, 159 Scottish gentlemen, i. 126 Sea, idiosyncrasies of different nationalities on the, ii. 115 Seacole, Mrs., i. 229 Sebastian, Don, i. 363 Sedgwick, Professor, i. 361 Séhwàn, Burton's practical jokes at, i. 146; ii. 68 Selamíyyah, i. 474, 475 Selby, Captain, ii. 217, 219; his death, 225 Seminary at São Paulo, i. 424; a monk and a bully, 433 Semiramis, on board the, i. 125, 126 Semmering, ii. 380 Senegal river, gold in the influents of the, i. 372 Sepoy, the, i. 100; mutiny in 1844, 129; soldiers, ii. 71; the army, 536 Serravallo-Minelli, Mdlle., ii. 124; death of, 346 Servia, ii. 507, 547, 553 Sétif, ii. 391 Seymour, Admiral, ii. 217 Seymour, Sir Hamilton, i. 225 Sfetez, S. di G., lines to Trieste, ii. 428 Sha'aban, i. 267 Shaftesbury, Lord, ii. 283 Shah Shooja, i. 117; ii. 96 Shakkah, i. 514 Shaw, Dr., Burton's letter to, i. 338, 339 Shaykh Hamid, i. 173, 174 Shaykh Jámi, Ulema, of Harar, i. 211, 212, 214 Shaykh Masud, i. 294 Shaykh Nur, i. 175, 179 Sházlis, the, i. 546, 547 Shelley, lines from, i. 184, 597; ii. 85 Shere Ali Khan, during the Indian Mutiny, ii. 522, 538 Shi'ahs, ii. 76, 78 Shikarpur, i. 129; ii. 66, 68, 73; bazar of, 69 Shirley, Colonel, i. 247 Shurparaka, ii. 81 Shoe, Burton's attempt to pair an odd, ii. 264 Short, Rev. Thomas, i. 78, 90; ii. 167 Sidra, Gulf of, ii. 549, 550, 607 Siena, i. 38, 39 Sierra Leone, the negro in, i. 350, 551; absurdly treated, 352-354; climate of, 359 Sierra Nevada of California, i. 361, 362 n. Sikh War, the, i. 146 Silver, near the Niger, i. 371 n.; Burton's love for, ii. 190 Simpson, General J., i. 146, 227, 230, 241 Simpson, R. Vaughan, ii. 404 Sinai, Mount, ii. 55 Sind, Burton's description of, 1842, i. 126, 127; native customs in, 142; a later visit to, ii. 62; horse, the, 69; artillery at, 70; devoid of great monuments, 75; political position of, 76 Sindia Felix, ii. 68 Sirdar Ekrem, the Turkish, ii. 507 Sivaji murdered General Azyul Khan, ii. 103 Skene, Mr., i. 234, 239, 242; his unfair treatment of General Beatson, 246-248 Slade, Dr., the spiritualist, ii. 155 Slav, the, peasantry, ii. 16; nation, 500, 501; the future race of Europe, 508; Turk, 544, 545 Slave-trade, England's former support of the, i. 357; coast of the, 371; Burton's letters to Granville on the, in Egypt, ii. 192-195, 196-210, 615; and the Bible, 209 n.; in the Red Sea, 518, 519, 563, 564; in Zanzibar, 587, 588: prices of slaves in Zanzibar, 589; 590 Small-pox in Africa, i. 284 Smashán, a Hindu burning-ground, i. 102; ii. 99, 100, 267 Smith, Mr., on Dahomè, i. 382 Smith, Mr. Edward, report on the Kitzia concession of gold, ii. 232, 233 Smith, Miss Penelope, i. 46, 47 Smith, Major-General Richard, in the Crimea, i. 245 Smith, Walter C., lines on the "Self-Exiled," ii. 450, 451 Smith, Professor W. Robertson, ii. 192; visits the Coptic convents of the desert, 197; discovers the centre of the slave-trade, 198 Smoking in England, 1840, i. 75, 76 Smugglers at Duino, ii. 213 Snakes, in Brazil, i. 428; an original treatment for the bite of, 437 Snay bin Amir, i. 290, 291; important information received from, 293; visits Suna at Uganda, 311, 316; his hospitality, 321; left by Speke in the bush, 321 n. Society on Sir R. Burton, ii. 299 Socrates, ii. 465 Sofala, expeditions in search of gold at, i. 362, 363 Somali, Burton's visit to the, i. 203, 205; ii. 6, 12, 13; the settled, i. 206; attack Burton in Berberah, 219, 221: merchants in Jeddah, ii. 57; children, 582; priests, 582; music, 584 Somerset, Duchess of, ii. 278 Somerset, Duke of, died, ii. 302 Somnath, Gates of, i. 117 Song of Maysúnah, i. 171 Soofi, the, their ideas on law, ii. 462; views of life, 467, 468; their eschatology, 464; Elijah the, 471; on the soul, 473, 475 Sorrento, i. 44 Soul, the, in ancient books, ii. 465, 466 Sowerby, Mr., on diamonds in India, ii. 532, 533; on iron-making in India, 533; on cheap railways, 534 Spaniards at Argélés, i. 59 Speke, Rev. B., disappearance of the, ii. 211 Speke, Captain, in Somali-land, i. 198-200, 217, 219-223; ii. 13; goes to Africa with Burton, i. 257; at Wasin, 261; at a hippopotamus hunt, 275; ill at Chogway, 276, 278; his second journey with Burton, 281; ill at Dut'humi, 281; at the Usagára Mountains, 286, 287; his ignorance of Arabic, 290; leaves Burton, 293; at Msene, 294; at Usagozi, 295; reaches Tanganyika, 298; returns to Ujiji, suffers from his ear, 301; reaps the credit of Burton's exploits, 304, 309, 310; ii. 14; wished to buy a pig, i. 308; knows no African languages, 309; at Kazeh, 308, 310, 311; discovered Nyanza, 312, 464, 465; his reply to Dr. Krapf on the large lake, 312 n.; is unfriendly towards Burton, 315; mistakes in his geographical report, 316 n.; left Snay bin Amir in the bush, 321 n.; in ill health, 322; his character, 323, 407; leaves Burton on good terms apparently, 327; ii. 424; his treachery, i. 328, 330; his regret, 331; in command of a new expedition to Africa, 339; his return from Africa, 388, 389; his sudden death, 389, 405; ii. 14, 426; his bust by Palgrave, i. 390; Burton's opinion of him, 403; ii. 425; his book on the Nile, i. 405, 406; fêted in Egypt, 405, 406; his Mountains of the Moon, 407; ii. 38; his claims in his speech at Taunton, i. 407; Macqueen's opinion of his expedition, 409; his maps, 410, 415; various allusions to the expedition with Burton, ii. 6, 11, 560, 569, 571; claims Burton's discoveries, 14; honours showered upon, 46, 48; his account of the expedition with Burton, 421-423; Burton's generosity to, 425; they meet at Bath, 426 Spencer, Mr., ii. 156 Spiders in Brazil, i. 428 Spiritualism in London, ii. 136, 137; lines upon, 136; Burton's speech on, 138-151; correspondence in the Times upon, 157-159 Splügen of Somali-land, i. 216 Sport, in Baroda, i. 109; in Damascus, 499. Sporting Truth on Burton, i. 181, 182 Squadron, British, at Trieste, ii. 215, 219; in 1883, 251; in 1887, 349 Stanhope, Lady H, grave of, i. 386, 471 Stanley, Lady, her kindness to the Burtons, ii. 188 Stanley, H., i. 202; compared with Burton, 304; ii. 300; on the Rusizi river, 38; Burton's description of, 392; in Switzerland, 403; his experience of Laurence Oliphant, 425 Stanley, Mrs., obtains an autograph from Sir Richard, ii. 404 Starke, Mrs., i. 42, 45 Staveley, Sir Ch., ii. 79 Steamers, in 1836, i. 53; P. and O., lady passengers on the, ii. 130, 131 Steele, General Sir F., ii. 396 Steingass, Dr., ii. 296 Steinhaüser, Dr., i. 53, 54, 168, 281, 424; ii. 61, 274, 289, 560 Stercky, Abbé, ii. 361, 373 Sterling, Miss, at Chillon, ii. 374 Stewart, Rev. Mr., ii. 404 Stocks, Ellerton, i. 198 Stonor, Mgr., ii. 21 Stories about the Burtons, ii. 3, 394; Storm, dust-, in India, i. 128, 129; in the desert, 472; thunder-, in Brazil, 423, 424 Stourton and Mowbray, Lord, ii. 236 Strangford, Lord (Percy Smythe), i. 232, 243, 347; ii. 540 Strangford, Viscountess (Emily Beaufort), i. 232; her work in Bulgaria, ii. 540 Stratford de Redcliffe, Lord, in the Crimea, i. 225, 231, 232, 234; his appearance, 233, 234; and character, 233, 235, 238, 239; his indifference to the fate of Kars, 242; makes an offer to Burton, 243; his alliance with Schamyl, 243; Christian converts in Syria, 566; lines from "Shadows of the Past," 606 Strauss, ii. 457 Strickland, W., i. 179 n. Strossmayer, Mgr., ii. 276, 349 Stroyan, Lieutenant, i. 198-200, 211; death of, 220-223; ii. 13 Suákin, the position at, Burton's note on the, ii. 366 Sudy Mubárak (Bombay), i. 266, 267, 270, 277, 289 Suez, ii. 54; Lady Burton at, 129-131; the Palmer search-party at, 608 —— Canal, the, opposed by Lord Palmerston, i. 226, 226 n.; annexation of the, ii. 497; 562 —— desert, the, i. 171, 172 Sugar, canes near Fuga Mountains, i. 268; in Persia, ii. 68 n. Sultan of Turkey, the, ii. 512, 545 Sultán el Bahr (a sea-king), i. 219 Suna, ruler of Uganda, i. 310, 311; war-vessels built by, 317, 318 Sunnis in India, ii. 76, 78 "Supernatural Religion," ii. 461 Sur, ii. 54 Surat, i. 139 Surrey County Lunatic Asylum, i. 595 Survey mess, a, i. 144 Swallows, attachment of, ii. 345; Burton's love of, 405, 406; his lines to, 408 Swanzy Estates Co. (gold), ii. 234 Swimming, i. 34 Swinburne, A., Burton's first meeting with, i. 347, 348; a poem by, 459; Burton dedicates, "Camoens" to, ii. 182; his reply, 183; a note to Mrs. Burton, 183; his lines to Burton on the "Arabian Nights," 286; lines by, 411 Swinton, Mr., ii. 529 Switzerland, tours in, ii. 358-362, 365-376, 400-404 Sword exercise, in India, i. 119, 134; at Boulogne, 164, 165 Symonds, Mr. J. A., a short meeting with, ii. 402; on the "Arabian Nights," 618 Syria, excursions in, i. 492; Burton and Drake explore, 495-498; misrule in, 514; ii. 259; ruins between Aleppo and Damascus in, i. 526-528; the Jews in, 530, 533-536; money-lending in, 535, 536; Christian converts in, 547-564; the Government of, 573; after Burton's recall, 583; the future, ii. 548, 549; no progress in, 557 T Takruri, the, ii. 56 Talfita, i. 524 Tancred, i. 249, 253; its effect on Mrs. Burton, 534 n.; ii. 212 Tanga Bay, i. 261 Tanga Island, i. 261 Tangata, i. 262 Tangier, Burton in, ii. 298, 303, 311, 312; hospitality at, 314 Tankaria Bunder, i. 133 Tannah, ii. 81 Tarbes, i. 55 Tasso, Torquato, ii. 559 Taunton, Lady, ii. 401 Tavernier, Mr., on diamonds in India, ii. 525, 526, 532 Tawaf, the, i. 175 Taxis, Princess of, ii. 316 Tayyárah, Kalifat el, i. 173, 174 Tel el-Kebir, ii. 601, 604, 605 Tell Shayhán, i. 513 Teneriffe, climate of, i. 57; yellow fever at, 1863, 379; Peak of, 380, 381; lines on, 523 Tennyson, "Crossing the Bar," ii. 412 Testament, Greek, New and Old, in the Library of Damascus, i. 482, 483 Tete, gold at, i. 366, 367, 371 Tewfik Pasha breaks his father's engagement with Burton, ii. 123, 177 Thackeray, ii. 48 Thakurs, tribes at Mátherán, ii. 104 Thames, expedition on the, ii. 48 Thayer, ii. 348, 381; note to the Tribune by, 357 Thierry, Baron de, i. 23 Thiers, i. 32; ii. 498 Thompson, Ensign, i. 97 Thompson, Dr., his enmity to Burton, i. 572 Thorndike, Rev. Mr., chaplain at Trieste, ii. 253, 343 Thornton, Sir E., i. 419, 425 Thurburn, J., i. 169, 170 Téleki, Count, ii. 329 Téleki, Countess, death of, i. 491 Terry, Miss Ellen, ii. 236 Tiber, Burton's letter on the overflow of the, ii. 21, 22; Mrs. Burton's letter on the, 22, 23 Tiberias, Sea of, i. 543 Tichborne Claimant, the, i. 453; trial, i. 593, 596 Tickell, Thomas, lines by, ii. 412 Tiffin in India, i. 111 Tobelbad, ii. 378 Toblach, ii. 321 Todleben, i. 228 Tongway, Mount, i. 265-267 "Tonic Bitters," Burton's, ii. 44 Torquemada, ii. 112, 461 Torrens, Mr., his edition of the "Arabian Nights," ii. 283, 288 Toulouse, i. 54 Tours, the Burtons in, 1820-30, i. 17-25; English Society in, 17, 18; politics in, 25; Burton revisits, ii. 51 Travancore, legend of a church at, ii. 99 Trachonites, robbers of the, i. 493 Travelling, in France, 1830, i. 25, 26; in French Canada, 1860, 26 Treasure, raising, by magic in Morocco, ii. 147, 148 Treaty between the East India Company and the Nizam of Hyderabad respecting the diamond-mines, ii. 527 n. Trebizonde, ii. 548, 556 Treloar, Mr., a sad visit to, i. 442, 443 Trent, ii. 2 Trial, respecting the cast of Napoleon, i. 10; of General Beatson, i. 247, 247 n. Trieste, Burton appreciated at, i. 252; Jews at, 535; appointed Consul at, 598; ii. 327; journey to, 1 n.; the arrival at, 3, 4; winds in, 5, 18; Burton's houses at, 5, 251, 340, 509; life in, 17; in 1889, 376, 377; politics in, 18; Burton's friends and visitors in, 32, 123, 174, 176, 177; in 1880, 188; in 1883, 246, 247, 271; in 1884, 273, 277; a dangerous night in, 176; earthquake in 1881, 211; British Squadron in, 215-219; an émeute in, 237; the Exhibition at, 237, 238; suicide in, 246, 508; curious laws of house-moving in, 250; Italian regatta at, 253; native food in, 264; ceremony on St. Silvester's night in, 278; tennis in, 281; City of, 340; a church consecrated at, 396; Queen's Jubilee at, 341-344; Burton's last return to, 405; honours shown to Sir R. Burton at his funeral in, 417, 418; mixed population at, 499, 500; harbour of, 505, 506; at the beginning of the century, 508; its towns, 509; prices at, 512; nationality of, 555; a voyage to Alexandria from, 591 Trinity College, Oxford, 1840, i. 70-72 Tripoli, ii. 549, 550 Troglodyte cave, ii. 175 Truth, Mrs. Burton's note to, ii. 215; on Burton's pension, 328 Tuam, i. 397 Tubirih, Bari name of the White Nile, i. 319 n. Tulúl el-Safá, i. 497, 513, 514 Tumbiri river, Dr. Krapf on the, i. 319 n. Tunis, annexed by France, ii. 211; 386; a journey to Algiers from, 389, 390 Tupper, Martin, ii. 177 Tura, i. 324 Turanian Santâls on God, ii. 469 Turcomans, i. 501: ii. 56 Turco-Russian Campaign, effects of the, ii. 553 Turkey, the future of, ii. 544, 547, 549, 551, 552; justice in, 545, 546; in Asia, 548; the partition of, 552 Turk Slav, the, ii. 57 Turner's executors, ii. 442 Tyndall, Professor, ii. 471 Tyrol, Austrian, through the, to Bâle, ii. 321, 322 U Uchatius gun, ii. 501 Uganda, i. 310 Ugogi, a journey across, i. 287; game in, 288; discomfort in, 292; a return to, 308 Ujiji, game in, i. 288; the journey to, 299 Ukaranga, the, i. 296 Ukerewe, i. 316 n. 317; other name for Nyanza, 318 Umar i Khayyâm, i. 212; ii. 467, 475 Uncanny incident at Trieste, ii. 275 Union Jack, ii. 177 Unjun, lampblack used in magic, ii. 145, 146 Unum Nirán, cave at, i. 496, 516 "Unwritten Law," the, ii. 374 Unyamwesi, a, guide, i. 292; fever at, 296; first visited by the Arabs, 299 Unyamyembe, Burton approaches, i. 289; journey to Ujiji from, 291; native servants ill at, 293; Burton returns to, 308; Burton and Speke at, ii. 421 Unyoro, i. 310, 317 Urundi Mountains, i. 295, 296, 299 Usagara Mountains, i. 282, 325 Usagozi, i. 295, 308 Usukuma, game in, i. 288; 319 Usumbara, i. 263; watchfire on, 268, 318; trial by ordeal amongst the people of, ii. 587 Uvinza, i. 308 Uvira, i. 302 V Valerga, Mgr., i. 542, 548, 567 Vambéry, M., i. 348, 399; ii. 507, 508 Van Ranke, Mme., i. 64 Vans-Kennedy, General, i. 121, 124, 137, 139 Van Voorst, John, i. 143 n., 159 Varese, ii. 358 Varley, Mr., i. 93 Venice, ii. 2, 3, 19; by moonlight, 31; 32, 52; Geographical Congress held at, 222; in 1885, 281; in 1887, 340, 376, 396 Venus, transit of, ii. 244 Verona, ii. 37 Vesuvius, 1886, ii. 315 Vetturino, travelling in a, i. 39 Vevey, Burton's notes from, ii. 365, 367 Vicenza, ii. 37 Vienna, the Exhibition at, ii. 23, 24; prices during the Exhibition at, 26, 27; in 1889, 381 "Vikram and the Vampire," i. 159; ii. 151 Villach, Austrian Tyrol, ii. 321 Villiers, Mr., ii. 364 Vinco, Don Angelo, i. 320 Vingoria, ii. 105 Vipach, ii. 32 Virgin, a figure cast from the cannon of Sebastopol, i. 460 Visions of Christ appear to Syrian converts, i. 551, 556-568 Vivian, General Sir Hussey, in the Crimea, i. 236, 242; his unfair treatment of Beatson, 245, 247 Vogt, Carl, ii. 469 Volney, ii. 550 Voltaire, ii. 72; at Lausanne, 371 Von Moltke, ii. 72 Voyage, a stormy, to Aden, i. 218, 219 Voysey, Mr., on gems in India, ii. 528 W Wadj el-Bizáras, i. 522 Wady Atnayn, i. 522 Wady Haráwwah, i. 204 Wady el-Nakrah, i. 524 Wale Point, i. 279 Wales, Prince of, at Cannes, ii. 334; during the earthquake on the Riviera, 336 Wales, Princess of, ii. 343 Walkeshwar, a remnant of old India, ii. 99 Wallace, Mr., on Spiritualism, ii. 155 Walne, Dr., i. 362 n. Warburg, Dr., value of his drops in Africa, i. 277, 308, 509 Ward, Mr., at St. Helena, i. 5, 6; his attempt to see Napoleon, 6, 7 Ward, Mr. Leslie, ii. 236 Wardour, ii. 329 Warren, Sir Ch., in search of Palmer, ii. 242, 243, 608, 609, 613; made a K.C.M.G., 244 Wartenstein, ii. 401 Wásá, gold in, i. 368, 371 Wassau Mining Co., report of the, ii. 233, 234 Water, want of, in the desert, i. 215, 479 Waterford, Marquis of, i. 71 Waterton, Canon, ii. 426, 427, 430 Watson, William, lines by, i. 546; on Burton, ii. 419 Watt, General, i. 247 Way, Rev. W., i. 17 Wazaram, i. 280 Wazegura, wilderness of, i. 269; a village of, 272, 273 Wazin, i. 261 Wazira Hills, i. 267 Wedding, a Hindoo, ii. 80, 81 Wednesday, the Moslems' unlucky day, 503 Weights, English and Indian diamond, ii. 524 n. Weixelstein Castle, ii. 168, 169; ghost story of, 170-173 Welby, Mr., ii. 217 Wellington, Duke of, on Napoleon's title at St. Helena, i. 7, 8; forces Colonel Burton to go on half-pay, 17; on Constantinople, ii. 544, 551, 553 Wemyss, Major, i. 236; died, ii. 247 Wenham, Canon, ii. 308, 402; made arrangements for the funeral of Sir Richard, 429, 430; read the funeral service at Mortlake, 403, 432, 433 Weranhanja, i. 317 Werne, Mr., i. 319 n. West, Consul, ii. 130 Weyprecht, Lieutenant Karl, ii. 212 White, Cooper, death of, ii. 317 Whitehall Review, on Sir R. Burton, ii. 300 Whitman, Walt, ii. 447 Wiesbaden, i. 83, 85, 86 Wikar ool Umára, ii. 86; his palace, 87, 88 Wilberforce on slavery, i. 358 Wilensi, i. 213 Williams, Sir W., at Kars, i. 242, 243; death of, ii. 253 Williams, Charley, bitten by a snake, i. 454 Wilson, Andrew, i. 4; ii. 51; death of, 215 Wilson, Mr., on gold-mining, i. 374 Wilyankuru district, the, i. 294 Wine, mystic sense of, ii. 467 Wingfield, Fred., i. 227, 229 Wiseman, Cardinal, gives Burton a passport as a Catholic officer, i. 250; ii. 446; arranges Mrs. Burton's marriage, i. 341 Wood, Sir C., ii. 567, 576 Wood, Sir R., i. 533; ii. 396 Woodpecker in the desert, i. 203 Wolf-tail, i. 185; ii. 467 Wolseley, Sir Garnet, and Tel el-Kebír, ii. 604 Women's friendship, ii. 483 Worsley, Mr., his wooden railways, ii. 534 Wrede, Prince, ii. 507 Wrestling, i. 134 Wright, Mr., missionary in Syria, i. 501; letter to Burton on ill feeling in Damascus, 503; letter expressing his appreciation of Burton as Consul in Damascus, 537, 538 Würzburg, ii. 2 Wyld, Dr., experiments in Spiritualism by, ii. 155, 156 Wyld, Mr. Gustavus, at Jeddah, ii. 55, 366, 367, 513 Wyndham, General, i. 241 X Xavier, St. Francis, at Goa, i. 162; ii. 106, 107; his tomb, 108; his first school in Goa, 109; his mission, 110, 111; his death, 111; canonized, 112 Y Yabrud, i. 523 Yahveh, i. 189 Yambu, i. 173; ii. 55 Yellow fever, in Brazil, i. 431; at Santa Cruz, 379 Yemen merchants at Jeddah, ii. 56 Yombo, i. 293; Burton receives letters at, 308 Young, Captain, ii. 70 Yousouf, Prince, i. 237 Ypsilante, Prince, ii. 512 Yriarte, M. Charles, works of, ii. 513 Yusuf, i. 223 Z Zæo, an accident befalls, ii. 254 Zagázig, ii. 129, 131; the people of, 601; journey to Suez from, 604 Zâhid, the, i. 186; ii. 467; Moses the, 471 Zal, ii. 471 Zambesi river, the, i. 296 n., 366, 367 Zamitt, Mme., ii. 174 Zante, ii. 117, 592 Zanzibar, Burton at, i. 257, 258, 327; serving-men in, 281; slaves in, ii. 587 Zayd, Sheríf, i. 174, 175 Zayla, Port, i. 200 Zebedáni, i. 500, 504; the Shaykh's son at, 547, 600, 601 Zech, Mr., ii. 220; death of, 244 Zonhwe, Burton's difficulties at, i. 284 Zenobia, statue of, i. 476 Zimbo, i. 365, 365 n. Zimmerman, Mr. and Mrs., ii. 379 Zoo-electricity, Burton's name for Spiritualism, ii. 149-152, 154-156 Zoological Gardens, Burton a traveller at the, ii. 48 Zoroastrians, four ages of the, ii. 472 Zotenberg, Professor, ii. 332, 333, 364, 365 Zungomero, an unhealthy place, i. 282; journey to the Usagára Mountains from, 325, 326 Zurich, ii. 400