Chapter XXI · (continued 2)

"Noticing the difference between Burton's real character and that for which he got credit in many quarters, I often asked him how certain specific stories had originated. It was interesting to learn how the legends had grown. Some of them had been told of old Castilian Hidalgos and 'British sea-dogs' before Burton's grandfather was born. Others were founded on facts, but they had received so many artistic touches at camp-fires and in mess-rooms that incidents innocent in themselves had grown to monstrous dimensions. From observation and much inquiry I have long come to the conclusion that the wild stories in circulation about Burton were bogeys, partly borrowed and partly invented—mere adaptations and travellers' yarns to shock and stun and create a little boisterous fun.

"The impatience with which Burton treated my servant revealed a characteristic that had much to do with his career. 'Genius is patience,' said Sir Isaac Newton. If this definition be correct, Burton must have lacked genius. 'The Prime Minister's secret is patience,' said Pitt. If Pitt be right, Burton had no chance of ever finding his way to the Premiership, for he never learned the secret. I think Burton was not without genius. He was certainly a very clever man, but he could not put up with stupidity in others. I am afraid he sometimes delighted to stick pins in Government officials who mistook the region of the world in which he was located, or who failed to apprehend the facts communicated in his last despatch. I am afraid he never got sufficiently into diplomatic training as to overlook the weakness of his immediate superiors, and hence the higher rounds of the diplomatic ladder were not to be trodden by his feet. He was shuttle-cocked about from one pestiferous region to another till at last the Foreign Office, in a lucid moment, sent the Oriental enthusiast to Damascus.

"Burton's quarrel with missionaries was also an open sore. I do not know the full merits of the original strife, but I believe it was a somewhat mixed affair. Certain benevolent gentlemen have always had a tendency to do proxy beneficence as cheaply as possible. In picking up missionaries they have sometimes been guided more by the price than the quality. Burton, it seems, came upon some of these job-lots, and found them jobbing, as was to be expected, and, with his usual impatience, 'went for them.' Then a great uproar ensued, in which the original cause was lost sight of, and Burton received the stamp of an anti-missionary Consul. The Consular dog had got a bad name, and that was enough for some.

"When it became known that Burton was destined for Damascus, there was a kind of panic among the missionaries of Syria, and active steps were taken to prevent the appointment being carried out. The Damascus missionaries held aloof from the organized opposition. The moral character of some of Burton's immediate Christian predecessors had not been of a sort to reflect much credit on Christian missionaries, or even on British subjects; and from the missionary point of view it seemed that a moral Consul who made no religious professions might, on the whole, prove as satisfactory as an immoral one who read the service to English travellers on Sundays. Besides, it was known to be the constant aim of the Damascus missionaries to steer clear of all diplomatic interference, and to keep the Consular finger out of their pie. They gave Burton a cordial welcome as their Consul, but they also gave him clearly to understand that any action of his, friendly or unfriendly, bearing on their work, would be regarded by them as an impertinent and unfriendly act.

"Burton appreciated their kindness, and frankly accepted their conditions, and missionaries and Consul maintained the most cordial relations, and it was understood that the whole missionary body at Damascus deeply regretted Burton's recall. One fact regarding this agreement may be noticed. The restless and energetic Burton maintained the compact in the spirit, but broke it in the letter. He visited all the mission schools in the most gracious manner, examined the children thoroughly, and afterwards made some valuable suggestions to the missionaries as to the perfecting of their educational organizations. He ever after spoke of the teachers and the schools with great cordiality and unstinted praise.

"The other missionaries of Syria, with solitary exceptions, maintained their attitude of hostility to Burton, and never lost an opportunity of speaking against him, and some of them not only embellished old stories to his discredit, but invented new ones, furor ministrat arma, to prove his deep-seated hostility to the missionary cause. Many influential travellers pass yearly through Syria, deeply interested in the splendid educational and religious efforts that are being made to elevate that land. Everywhere they heard of the anti-Christian Consul, and the constant drip made a deep impression. Almost the only honest and praiseworthy efforts being made to lift the Holy Land out of the slough of Oriental degradation stood to the credit of the missionaries, and it was intolerable that their efforts should be thwarted by a British Consul.

"Burton might, by patience and well-doing, have worn down and outlived the hostility of these missionaries, but he had the misfortune to come into sharp conflict with the Jews, and he had thus on his flank an active, persistent, and powerful enemy.

"It would be interesting to narrate how a number of Russian and other Jews at Damascus became British subjects, but the by-paths and crooked ways would be too long and intricate for our space. Burton found himself the official head and protector of a colony of British Jews. Some of these were men of great wealth and affluence, and it was well known that the official virtue of helping them was seldom left to be its own reward.

"Burton, though always posing as an Oriental, thought fit to hew Oriental prejudice against the grain. He might have seen his beautiful wife flashing in brilliants, roped in pearls, and riding the best blood Arab of the desert; but he threw away all these tokens of appreciation in obedience to an occidental prepossession in favour of common honesty.

"Burton found that his Jews were living by usury. Some of them were known to charge as little as thirty per cent., but rates ran up to sixty, or more. 'His mouth is full of water[6] and he cannot bark' is a common Arab proverb, but Burton had nothing in his mouth, and he barked ferociously. His official duty was to urge the recognition of British claims, and insist on their being paid. That was the form that 'law and order' took at Damascus. What did it matter if the people were starving! At the word of the Consul a band of Bashi-Bazouks would swoop down on the defaulting villagers, eat their food, lie in their beds, insult their wives and daughters, until the usurer was satisfied. Should the villagers be unable to pay, they were not only evicted, but driven like cattle to prison, there to rot till they had paid the uttermost farthing. Burton did not like the business. He grew fierce, declared in the strongest language at his command that he would not be 'Bumbailiff' in such transactions. I am inclined to think that in this case, as in most others, Burton's impatience led him into doing the right thing in the wrong way. He was indignant, his blood was up, and on being asked gently what was the use of a Consul at Damascus if he did not enforce British claims, he lost the composure befitting the diplomatic service.

"The storm broke. The Alliance Israelite took up the case of 'poor Israel.' Noble, and humane, and generous Jews in England ranged themselves on the side of 'their persecuted brethren.' Some of them would have been more fierce than Burton had they known the truth. Correspondence followed, and the archives of the Foreign Office now contain Burton's splendid vindications, which may some day see the light."

"The Recall of Captain Burton.

Letters showing the State of Syria after his Recall.

"To the Editor of the Civil Service Gazette.

"Sir,—I have just seen some letters from Damascus, from which I learnt a few facts that may interest you with reference to the recall of Captain Burton.

"The Consulate was left in charge of Mr. Jago, who, however, was so alarmed at certain demonstrations of dissatisfaction on the part of the natives that he prudently took advantage of an opportune fever, and left the town and the Consulate to take care of itself. The English Government is, therefore, entirely unrepresented in Damascus.

"The Kurds who inhabit the suburb of Damascus, called the Salahíyyeh, say that now Captain Burton has gone, there is no one who can protect them from the extortions of the Governor-General, and have notified their intention of leaving en masse. As they are about ten thousand fighting men, they will not improve the pacific aspect of the country when they are let loose over it, feeling that they have no protector but their sword.

"The Mohammedans, whose 'fanatical aversion to Captain Burton' is the ostensible pretext for his recall, have been holding mass meetings, and even praying publicly in the mosques that God will send him back to them. Letters are flowing in every day from village sheikhs and Bedawin chiefs, asking that he may return to Damascus, as there is no one else to whom they can appeal for help or succour.

"So strong is the feeling, that Mrs. Burton was obliged to slip away secretly, as the people wished to retain her as a hostage in order to make sure that Captain Burton would go back to them.

"In addition to these facts, which I can vouch for, I can tell you that, from my own experience of the country, I feel sure that Captain Burton's absence will be a source of great inconvenience (to put it mildly) to intending travellers this next winter. If you have any friends who propose visiting Syria, you cannot do better than advise them not to do so, as there will assuredly be troubles before long.

"I cannot pretend to enter into the real reasons for this blunder on the part of the Foreign Office (though they are not hard to guess), but of one thing I feel assured, and that is that the mistake would never have been made had Lord Stratford de Redcliffe been still at Constantinople.

"I am, Sir, yours truly,

"E. H. Palmer.

"St. John's College, Cambridge."

"Threatened Troubles in Syria.

"To the Editor of the Standard.

"Sir,—Forewarned will not be forearmed in this case, for the mischief is half done already by the actions of her Majesty's Government.

"I came to Syria in February last with a special mission from the Palestine Exploration Fund. I have since been travelling over the length and breadth of the land, and this, with several years' previous acquaintance with the East, enables me to see more of the real state of the country than falls to the lot of the ordinary tourist.

"In the early spring I found Syria in an abnormal state of excitement, arising from many causes. That excitement has gone on increasing, chiefly for five reasons: 1. The injustice and rapacity of the Governor-General (Wali), Mohammed Rashíd Pasha, who now misgoverns Syria. 2. The agitation kept up by Egypt, with whom Syria and its Governor sympathize only too strongly, and with whom they will act the moment opportunity offers. 3. The ruin of the peasantry, crushed by exorbitant taxes, starved by a bad season, and devoured by Jewish money-lenders. 4. The way in which the Wali pits sect against sect for his own political ends; and in this land, where party feeling runs so high, nothing is easier. And, 5. The strong Christian movement, none the less strong for being under the surface—this has already been noticed in some English papers.

"There was but one man in Syria who both saw and protested against the many and glaring acts of injustice done by the Wali, and this was her Britannic Majesty's Consul at Damascus, Captain R. F. Burton, whom her Majesty's Foreign Office have thought fit to remove, giving ear to the tale raised two years ago, by certain missionaries and others, that Moslem fanaticism was working against him. Knowing the people and the country as well as I do, I hesitate not one moment to say that this is a deliberate lie (and I am ready to prove it such) invented by Captain Burton's enemies. Few men, if any, would have got on as well as he has with all classes here, Mohammedans and Metaweli, Greek Catholics and Syrians, Protestants and Latins. He visited and was visited by the religious sheikhs, and especially by the Emir Abd el Kadir of Algerian fame. This prince is looked upon as the leader of Mohammedan religion here. These facts are sufficient to show how false is the plea of Captain Burton's not being able to deal with Mohammedans on account of their fanaticism. Only to-day I have heard numbers of Moslems deplore his removal, which pleased only the Wali and his creatures, and a few Jews engaged in nefarious usury. I dwell upon these points, as I feel convinced that unless his successor be a man of his stamp—which will be hard to find—he will sink to that state of subserviency to the Wali to which the Consuls of other nations at Damascus have sunk. They are weak and timid, and completely under the Wali. The English Consul was the only man of independence, but now that Syria is becoming of vital importance to us on account of the Euphrates Valley Railroad, our name and prestige must go, through her Majesty's Government recalling, at the instigation of a Turkish Pasha, the only man fit to represent Great Britain in Syria. The Wali, having succeeded by his vile intrigues in displacing one of the most efficient of her Majesty's Consular officers, will feel that there is no one to check his malpractices; the peasantry, sooner or later, must rise; the great Christian movement will be crushed, not without bloodshed, for the converts now number many thousands of resolute men of all classes, and we must be prepared for the worst. I venture to predict that before many months have passed, the troubles of Syria will have drawn upon her the eyes of Europe, and when blood has been shed England will see the error she has committed in throwing her influence here to the dogs, and obeying the wishes of Rashíd Pasha,

"I am, Sir, etc.,

"Chas. F. Tyrwhitt-Drake.

"Damascus."

"The Damascus Consulate.

"The following letter, to which we have alluded in a leading article, on the subject of Captain Burton's recall, has been addressed to the Editor of the Times, by a well-known Syrian traveller:—

"Sir,—In a letter I addressed to you, dated August 17th, on the state that Syria, especially in the Damascus district, was likely to fall into in consequence of the recall, from his post as Consul at Damascus, of the only man who had the courage to resist and check the malpractices of the notoriously corrupt and cruel Governor-General Mohammed Rashíd Pasha, I predicted that troubles would quickly ensue. On the 18th of August—the day that Captain Burton left Damascus—a raid was made into the Christian quarter by Mustafa Bey, Mir Alai of Zabtiyeh (Chief of Police), a most fanatical Mahomedan, with two hundred men, for the purpose of arresting certain Moslems suspected of a leaning to Christianity, and who had been decoyed from their own quarter by a police spy, Mahmud Bey Adham, a man who had by some means become possessed of their secret. Happily, these suspects were able to take refuge in the house of an English consular dragoman just as they were being arrested, and though the gérant of her Majesty's Consulate ordered them to be given up, yet the matter became so public that the Wali feared to proceed to extreme measures, and released them after a day's imprisonment. The affair, however, will not stop here, though it may lie dormant awhile.

"On August 23, three days after Captain Burton's leaving Beyrout, the Protestant missionaries were prevented by the Kaimakam (Governor) from making some small additions to their school at Rasheyya. The Rev. Messrs. Wright and Scott requested the gérant of her Majesty's Consulate to procure them an order from the Government to enable them to go on. A so-called order was immediately procured, but, of course, it was utterly useless; a second produced no better effect.

"This is but the commencement, yet it serves to show the way in which English missionaries will be hindered, and how English influence is to be crushed. It would be, to any one unacquainted with Syria, an incredible matter if I were to say how our national prestige has fallen since the last ten days. I have some twenty letters from Moslem sheikhs of towns and villages, religious sheikhs and men of influence, as well as from Druzes and Christians, which I have been asked to forward to Captain Burton, as the writers think that their urgent entreaties may favour his return.

"The Government organ, El Hadikat el Akhbar, has written a most shameful article on Captain Burton's recall, stating that he was not only on bad terms with the authorities, but also with his colleagues and all British-protected Jews, and other lies equally base. A few Jews, whom he refused to help in scandalous and illegal transactions, of course detest him, and have been secretly aiding the Wali against him. A most fulsome article, too, appeared in another paper, El Suriva (The Syria), from the pen of the Wali himself in praise of the gentleman now in charge of her Majesty's Consulate here.

"I fear to take up too much of your valuable space by dilating on the subject, but I am every day more convinced that there will be great trouble in this unhappy land of misrule.

"I am, Sir, etc.,

"Chas. F. Tyrwhitt-Drake.

"Damascus, September."

"Revival of Christianity in Syria.

"To the Editor of the Tablet.

"Sir,—I have just seen the account published in the Tablet of the 16th and 23rd of September, of the revival of Christianity in Syria. I can only say that you have an exceedingly well-informed correspondent, but one who seems hardly aware what enormous proportions this movement is assuming in the districts of Hums, Hamáh, and even Aleppo. The number of these diverts from Islam is almost impossible to calculate, but I believe that in the whole, of Syria twenty to twenty-five thousand is a moderate computation.

"Now that Rashíd Pasha, of infamous memory, is removed from Syria, can nothing be done to bring back the twelve Sházlis banished to Africa? Will neither England nor any other Christian Power say one word in their favour? Is the policy of maintaining the unity of Turkey to be so strictly adhered to, that not even a harsh word is to be said to her though she deliberately breaks her treaties and solemn obligations: when, after promising religious freedom to all her subjects, she invariably persecutes those who dare to leave the religion of Mohammed, not perhaps directly, but by some subterfuge, as bringing against the so-called 'renegades' a charge of evasion from conscription, or desertion from the army.

"Hoping that your advocacy may do something to bring about the return of these twelve martyrs, whose wives and families would have been starved here long ago had it not been for the liberality of their co-sectarians,

"I remain, Sir, etc.,

"Chas. F. Tyrwhitt-Drake.

"Damascus, November 13."

Richard wrote at the end of his time in Syria, just before his recall—

"My time here is marked and rendered bitter by contact with tyranny and an oppression which even this land of doleful antecedents cannot remember. The politics of the unworthy Wali, Rashíd Pasha, are alternately French and Russian, and, like all Orientals educated in Europe, he hates Europeans. I have been brought into collision with him, by his utterly ignoring the just claims and rights of British subjects and protégés, and he was supported by those whose duty it was to oppose him, so I had to battle alone with hands bound."

Later on, after his recall, he writes—

"But they, his powerful protectors, failed, and truth from my poor pen and tongue prevailed, and Rashíd was recalled in disgrace and degradation, and threatened with irons and fetters. Every measure which I had ventured to recommend during my time was ordered to be carried out. The reform was so thorough and complete that her Majesty's Ambassador at Constantinople was directed officially to compliment the Porte upon its newly initiated line of progress. But Pashas soon fall into bad ways, and it is always the case of 'new broom.' The irony of events is extraordinary. Damascus is the civil, military, and ecclesiastical Capital of the country, the head-quarters of the Government and the High Courts of Appeal, the residence of the chief dignitaries, where the Consul-General ought to live, and the Vice-Consul for the shipping duties at Beyrout. But Beyrout is safe; Damascus is not always so. Persia has observed this long ago, and have a Consul-General. Russia, Prussia, France, and Italy do not speak to the Capital through Vice-Consuls, but Consuls; yet, to gratify the F.O.'s most undistinguished servant Mr. Eldridge, as soon as I was gone, a Vice-Consul was appointed for the Capital—a creature of his own. Therefore, to the detriment of British interest, to the injury of English residents, missionaries, and school-teachers, we took rank after Spain, Portugal, and Greece, because their representatives are often rayyàhs, or subjects of the Porte, and take precedence of the British Vice-Consul. Yet the English public is now surprised to hear from my successor that English travellers have been made prisoners at Kerak."

The Interval I remained as a Hostage.

I must now return, and finish my own Eastern career, more for the sake of showing the goodness of the Syrian heart, than for any other interest. I am bound, though late, to bear testimony to them.

After seeing Richard off, I had a cold eight hours' drive over the Lebanon, arrived at the khan at Shtora, found my horse in excellent condition, and slept for a few hours. Early in the morning I rode to see Miss Wilson, who kindly insisted on my remaining a day with her. Mr. Tyrwhitt-Drake, a kawwás, and servants and horses, met me here, and escorted me back to Bludán; but we lost our way in the mountains, and had an eleven hours' hard scramble. I was ill, tired, and harassed, and was thankful to find my friend Mrs. Rattray, who came over to keep me company. She was as much troubled as I was myself. I do not care who says to the contrary, but the world in general is a good place; for, although a few bad people make everything and everybody as miserable as they can—permitted, I infer, by an all-wise Providence, like mosquitoes, snakes, and scorpions, to prevent our becoming too attached to this life, and ceasing to work for the other, where they cannot enter—the general rule is good, and whoever is in trouble, as I have said, will always meet with kindness, comfort, and sympathy, from some quarter or other.

I had every right to expect, in a land where official position is everything, where love and respect accompanies power and Government influence, where women are of but small account, that I should be, morally speaking, trampled underfoot. I do not know how to describe with sufficient gratitude, affection, and pleasure the treatment I met with throughout Syria. The news spread like wild-fire. All the surrounding villages poured in. The house and the garden were always full of people—my poor, of course, but others too. Moslems flung themselves on the ground, shedding bitter tears, and tearing their beards, with a passionate grief for the man "whose life" they were reported to wish to take. The incessant demonstrations of sorrow were most harassing, the poor crying out, "Who will take care of us now?" The Moslems: "What have we done that your Díwan (Government) has done this thing to us? They sent us a man who made us so happy and prosperous, and protected us, and we were so thankful; and why now have they taken him from us? What have we done? Were we not good and thankful, and quiet? What can we do? Send some of us to go over to your land, and kneel at the feet of your Queen." This went on for days, and I received, from nearly all the country round, little deputations of Shaykhs, bearing letters of affection, or condolence, or grief, or praise. These sad days filled me with one gnawing thought—"How shall I tear the East out of my heart by the roots, and adapt myself to the bustling, struggling, everyday life of Europe?"

I broke up our establishment, packed up my husband's books, and sent them to England, settled all our affairs, had all that was to accompany me transferred to Damascus, and parted with the mountain servants. Two pets—the donkey that had lost a foot, and a dog that was too ill to recover—had to be shot and buried in the garden.

I leave the Anti-Lebanon—Wind up at Damascus.

When all these sad preparations were finished, I bade adieu to the Anti-Lebanon with a heavy heart, and for the last time, choking with emotion, I rode down the mountain, and through the plain of Zebedáni, with a very large train of followers. I found it hard to leave the spot where I had hoped to leave my mortal coil.

I had a sorrowful ride into Damascus, and I met the Wali driving in State, with all his suite. He looked radiant, and saluted me. I did not return his salute, and he told his Staff that he was afraid I would shoot him. Somebody did that a little later on. He looked less radiant when the news of his own recall reached him a few days later, with a special telegram, that if he delayed more than twenty-four hours, he was to be sent in chains. He fought hard to stay, and I do not wonder, for he had a splendid position, and had bought lands and built a palace, which he never lived in; and he had to give up all his ill-gotten goods, lands, and palace, squeezed out of the peasantry.

At Damascus I had to go through the same sad scenes, upon a much larger scale than I had gone through at Bludán. All our kind friends, native and European, came to stay about me to the last.

I saw that Richard's few enemies were very anxious for me to go, and that all the rest were equally anxious to detain me as a kind of pledge for his return. I reflected that it would be right that I should coolly and quietly perform every single work I had to undertake—to sell everything, to pay all debts, and arrange every liability of any kind incurred by my husband, to pack and despatch to England our personal effects, to make innumerable friendly adieux, to make a provision or find a happy home for every single being—man or beast—that had been dependent upon us. This was rendered slow and difficult, as the Government left us pro tem., without a farthing. A servant generally gets a month's notice with wages and a character, but without any defence we were annihilated as if by dynamite. At last I made our case known to Uncle Gerard, who telegraphed to the Imperial Ottoman Bank, "to let his niece have any money that she wanted." Before I left I went and dressed our little chapel with all the pious things in my possession.

On the day of the sale I could not bear to stay near the house, so I went up to Arba'in, or "the Forty Martyrs," above our house, on Jebel Kaysún, about fifteen hundred feet high, and I gazed on my dear Salahíyyeh below, in its sea of green, and my pearl-like Damascus, and the desert sand, and watched the sunset on the mountains for the last time. I also met some Mogháribehs, who came up to pray there, and who prognosticated all sorts of good fortune to me.

In one sense I was glad, because I was a kind of hostage, giving the lie to his enemies. If there had been anything wrong, I should assuredly have paid the forfeit. I had no anxiety, for though I had magnificent offers—two from Moslems to shoot certain official enemies, as they passed in their carriage, from behind a rock, and another from a Jew to put some poison in their coffee—I slept in perfect security, amongst my Moslem and Kurdish friends, with my windows and doors open, in that Kurdish village, Salahíyyeh. Between us and the City was a quarter of an hour's ride through orchards that were wild and lawless—at least, in my time, no one would come there from sunset to sunrise, and timid people, not even in the day, without a guard. We had the house on a three years' lease, and my bedroom window and the Muezzin's Minaret were on a level, and almost joined, so that we could talk to each other. I used to join him in the "call to prayer," and he used to try not to laugh. I never missed a pin; I never had anything but blessings. All my work took me some time, but I resolved, whatever the wrench would cost me, I would set out the moment it was finished. My husband being gone, I had no business, no place there; I knew it would be better taste to leave.

We all began to perceive that the demonstrations were beginning to be of an excitable nature; the Moslems assembling in cliques at night, a hundred here and a hundred there, to discuss the strange matter. They were having prayers in the mosques for Richard, and making promises of each giving so much to the poor if they obtained their wish. They continually poured up to Salahíyyeh with tears and letters, begging him to return, and I felt that my presence and distress only excited them the more. I left more quickly because I was informed that my presence was exciting the people, who lived in hopes of his return, and his non-appearance was causing an irritability that might break out into open mutiny and cause another massacre. They were beginning with the usual signs of meeting in clusters in the streets, in discussing the affair in the mosques, in the bazaars, in the cafés, and putting up public prayers for his return.

As half the City wanted to accompany me on the road, and I was afraid that a demonstration might result, I thought I should be wise to slip away quietly. My two best friends, Abd el Kadir and the Hon. Jane Digby el Mezrab (Lady Ellenborough), were with me till the last, and, accompanied by Charley Drake and our two most faithful dragomans, who had never deserted me and put themselves and all they possessed at my disposal, Hanna Asar and Mr. Awadys, I left Damascus an hour before dawn, sending word to all my friends that parting was too painful to me.

"Linger not out the hours of separation's day Till for sheer grief my soul to ruin fall a prey."[7]

I get Fever.

I felt life's interest die out of me as I jogged along for weary miles, wishing mental good-byes to every stick and stone. I had been sickening for some days with fever. I had determined not to be ill at Damascus, and so detained. Pluck kept me up, but having braved the fatal 13th, and set out upon it, I was not destined to reach Beyrout.

When I reached that part of the Lebanon looking down upon the sea, near Khan el Karáyyeh, my fever had increased to such an extent that I became delirious, and had to be set down on the roadside, where I moaned with pain and could not proceed. Half an hour from the road was the village of my little Syrian maid. I was carried to her father's house, and lay there for ten days very ill, and was nursed by her and by my English maid. Many kind friends, English and native, came to see me from Beyrout and from the villages round about.

Mr. Tyrwhitt-Drake took our house, part of the furniture, the faithful Habíb, and the sais, my two horses, which I could not bear to sell into stranger hands, the dogs, and the Persian cat, "Tuss," who, however, ran away the day after I left, and has never been seen or heard of since. All the other servants and animals were well provided for in other ways. I was offered £15 for my white donkey, but I could not bear to sell him, so I left him also with Mr. Tyrwhitt-Drake, and he eventually found a good home with our successor, Mr. Green (afterwards Sir W. Kirby Green), and died. The bull-terriers also died natural deaths with Mr. Drake. It was a great relief to know that the former would never become a market donkey, nor the latter pariahs, nor be beaten, stoned, and ill-used. I was obliged to sell Richard's rahwán, and I sent it to the purchaser, the Vice-Consul who succeeded, from the village where I was ill. He came to pay me a visit. Although the poor horse had only been there one night, this gentleman told me he had no trouble in finding the house, for as soon as the rahwán got near the turn leading off the diligence road, he started off at full gallop, and never stopped till he reached the door, nor would he go anywhere else.

I went down to Beyrout as soon as I was well enough to move, and, assisted by Mr. Watkins of the Imperial Ottoman Bank, Mr. Drake, and Mr. Zal Zal, embarked in the Russian ship Ceres, the same that had brought me formerly from Alexandria to Beyrout. As we were about to steam out, an English Vice-Consul in the Levant gaily waved his hand to me, and said laughingly, "Good-bye, Mrs. Burton. I have been sixteen years in the service, and I know twenty scoundrels in it who are never molested; but I never saw a Consul 'recalled' except for something disgraceful, and certainly never for an Eastern Pasha. You'll find it's all right; they would hardly do such a thing to such a man as Burton." We were a fortnight at sea, detained by fogs and two collisions.

Eventually reach Home.

On reaching London I found Richard in one room in a very small hotel. He had made no defence—had treated the whole thing de haut en bas, so I applied myself for three months to putting his case clearly before the Foreign Office in his own name. I went to the Foreign Office, where I had thirteen friends, and knew most of its Masters, and I asked them to tell me frankly what was the reason of his recall.

Firstly, I was told it had been represented that he was in danger from the Mohammedans. That was too easily disproved by fifty-eight letters from every creed, nation, and tongue of the thirty-six in Syria, from Bedawi tribes, Druzes, Moslems of all categories, from the Ulemá, from Abd el Kadir; and, like proverbs, this homely correspondence sprung from the heart illustrated the native character better than books, and was a fair specimen of local Oriental scholarship. What the Press and the Public thought about it in various nations was the same—in forty-eight articles chiefly from the English Press and the Levant, and five leaders. All that England has ever done to him of neglect and slight has never touched him in any man's mind. He was the brightest gem in his country's crown, and his country did not deserve him. I went the rounds of my friends repeatedly in the Foreign Office, and insisted on having a reason for the recall.

When the Mohammedan question was disposed of, it was found that it was because "Burton had written a letter to convoke the Druzes to a political meeting in the Haurán." I asked if I might have a copy of that letter, and, having kept the original copy, I was able to put them side by side in the report, showing it was forged by Rashíd Pasha. He was then accused of opposing missionary work, because he had written advising a schoolmistress, in the kindest spirit, to try and prevent her husband entering into mining speculations: as there was so much cheating going on, he was afraid he would drop several thousand pounds. "Mining," was somehow changed to "missionary;" but that fact was disposed of by the regretful and indignant letters at his recall from all the other missionaries. He was accused of being influenced against the Jews because he protected the poor villagers from paying their debts twice and thrice over to the usurers, who took their money and refused receipts, leaving nothing to show. Amongst the letters one Jew wrote home that Captain Burton "was influenced by his Catholic wife against the Jews." I am proud to say that I have never in my life tried to influence my husband to do anything wrong, and I am prouder still to say that if I had tried I should not have succeeded, and should have only lost his respect. The Jews have never had a better friend than me. I distinctly divide the usurers from the Jews, just as I divide the good, honest, loyal half of the Irish Catholic nation from the Fenians and the moonlighters, who are mostly Irish living in England and America, and who go over for the purpose of fomenting disturbance. I have suppressed many a thing that civilized and idealized Jews would be ashamed to have known of their lower and fanatical brethren in the East and elsewhere. He was accused by the Greek bishop of firing into "harmless Greeks at play," because he fired a shot in the air to call assistance when we were being stoned to death.

He gets an Amende.

Mr. Eldridge, who was quite a Russian at heart, went on the plan of never compromising himself by writing an official order to Richard; he never wrote him anything but private notes. Richard said he could not use private notes in official life as proofs. I thought this very wrong. I saw a plan in this mode of action, so I used to keep them in a portfolio till wanted, so that when I put the case together I was able to state the facts very correctly. I have got several packets of that Blue Book now, if anybody wants to see one. It ended by Richard getting the nearest thing to an apology that one could expect out of a Government office, and an offer of several small posts, which he indignantly refused. In his journal I find he was offered Pará, but would not take it—"Too small a berth for me after Damascus."

We become Penniless.

Shortly after, Mr. L—— offered him, that if he would go to Iceland to inspect some sulphur mines, he would pay his passage there and back, and his expenses, and if he found he could conscientiously give a good report of the sulphur mines, that he would give him £2000. He went, and as we were at a very low ebb, and as Mr. L—— did not pay for me, I was left with my father and mother, which was a very fortunate circumstance, because my mother died shortly after. I may put in a parenthesis that, though Richard was able conscientiously to give a splendid report of the mines, Mr. L—— did not pay him the £2000. The trip resulted in a book called "Ultima Thule: a Summer in Iceland"[8] (2 vols.), which was not published till 1875, and his "Zanzibar City, Island, and Coast" (2 vols., 1872); and he wrote a lecture for the Society of Antiquaries, a "History of Stones and Bones from the Haurán," and "Human Remains and other Articles from Iceland." We had ten months of great poverty and official neglect (but great kindness from Society), during which we were reduced to our last £15, and after that we had nothing to do but to sit on our boxes in the street, for we had nothing, not a prospect of anything; but we let nobody know that. He remarked one day when we were out on business—

"Lunch, one shilling, Soup not filling."

And I noticed afterwards, in his journal, that he had longed for some oysters, and looked at them long; but he says, "They were three shillings a dozen—awful, forbidden luxury!"

At last my uncle, Lord Gerard, asked us up to Garswood, and we debated if we had a right to accept it or not. I begged him to do so, as I thought it might bring us good luck. We were alone in a railway compartment, when one of the £15 rolled out of my purse, and slid between the boards of the carriage and the door, reducing us to £14. I sat on the floor and cried, and he sat down by me with his arm round my waist, trying to comfort me. Uncle Gerard kept us one month, paid our fare up and down, and, without knowing that we wanted anything, gave me £25, and from that time one little help or another came to keep us alive without our asking for anything. We sold some of our writings, and it was discovered that some back pay was due to Richard.

Small Jottings.

During this ten months at home, we saw a great deal of Winwood Reade, whom all know by his travels in Africa, his many literary works, of which the cleverest, but the most harmful, was the "Martyrdom of Man," of which he presented Richard with a copy, which was carefully treasured till about six months before Richard's death. He told us the following account of a ghost story:—

There was a place in Africa or in India (I forget at this distance of time), where there was a haunted bungalow, and Winwood Reade was longing to see a ghost, as he was very sceptical about the existence of such things. In this particular bungalow there was a room on the ground floor, with folding doors of glass that opened to the ground, leading out into the compound. Every night at twelve o'clock these glass doors (being locked) slowly opened outwards, and the ghosts of three surgeons who had died of cholera appeared in their winding-sheets. Winwood Reade engaged the bungalow for the night, it being quite empty, but he could not induce anybody, for love or money, to go with him. At last he tempted a black boy, by large promises of money, to pass one night there, and the boy said if he might sleep on the roof he would, but nothing would induce him to go inside the house. So they started forth, and Winwood took with him a good novel, his gun, his watch, and plenty of brandy and water, and towards eleven o'clock made himself very comfortable on some cushions in a corner of the room in full view of the window. As his watch pointed to twelve, the doors slowly opened, he seized his gun, and in a moment the three white figures appeared. I said, breathless with excitement, "And what did you do, Winwood?" He smiled and hesitated, and said, "To tell the honest truth, I dropped my gun and fainted, and when I came to I got out of the house as quick as I could, called the boy, went away, and never went back." He was such a brave man he could afford to own this.

Richard writes at this time in his journal, "I called on some old friends, and as I came out of the house I heard the servants whisper, 'Why, Captain Burton looks like an old gypsy.'" This was after his recall.

We had one very pleasant evening at Lady Marian Alford's. She had been building her house at Prince's Gate, and Miss Hosmer had sculptured her fountain; it was the opening night. Lady Marian wanted to prepare a little surprise for her friends, so she made Richard dress as a Bedawin Shaykh, and Khamoor (my Arab girl) and me as Moslem women of Damascus. I was supposed to have brought this Shaykh over to introduce him into a little English society. He spoke Arabic to Khamoor and me, and broken English with a few words of French to the rest of the party. It was a delightful little party, and we enjoyed it very much, and—though they all knew him—nobody recognized Richard, which was very amusing; but presently the Prince of Wales and the Duke of Edinburgh were announced, and Lady Marian had to go out to prepare them for this little joke, which amused them immensely, and so it gradually had to ooze out. There was a delightful supper, three tables each of eight. Khamoor in her Eastern dress came in with coffee on a tray on her head, and presented it kneeling to the Prince and the Duke, and to the others standing. Everything that Lady Marian Alford did was so graceful.

I see that Richard notices in his journal a correspondence between himself and the Rev. Herbert Vaughan, D.D. (our present Cardinal), which I imagine was about the Sházlis. And he also notices that his name is again left out of Sir Roderick Murchison's address, and asks, "Why? Old Murchison hates me."

Again speaking of Sir R. Murchison, Richard writes, "He was anxious to pay due honour to our modern travellers, to Livingstone and Gordon, Speke and Grant. He has done me the honour of not honouring me." Later on: "Received a card from him to go and see him."

We also went to Ashridge, Lord Brownlow's, on a visit to Lady Marian Alford, which visit we enjoyed immensely, where we met Lord Beaconsfield and numbers of other delightful people.

He also notices in his journal: "Had the satisfaction of hearing of Rashíd Pasha's disgrace and removal. Wonder if he wishes he had not crossed swords with me."

This year was the Tichborne trial, and Richard was subpœnaed by him, but his evidence did more good to the family. Amongst other things the Claimant said to Richard, "That he had met me in Rio de Janeiro, and that I had recognized him as a long-lost cousin; but, on fixing the dates, it was proved that I had sailed from Rio for London a week before the Claimant arrived there." We had one very lively meeting at the Royal Geographical Society. He writes—

"Rassam stood up about a native message to Livingstone. Colonel Rigby contradicted, and said there were no Abyssinians in Zanzibar. They began to contradict me, so I made it very lively, for I was angry, and proved my point, showing that my opponents had spoken falsely. My wife laughed, because I moved from one side of the table to the other unconsciously, with the stick that points to the maps in my hand, and she said that the audience on the benches looked as if a tiger was going to spring in amongst them, or that I was going to use the stick like a spear upon my adversary, who stood up from the benches.[9] To make the scene more lively, my wife's brothers and sisters were struggling in the corner to hold down their father, an old man, who had never been used to public speaking, and who slowly rose up in speechless indignation at hearing me accused of making a misstatement, and was going to address a long oration to the public about his son-in-law Richard Burton. As he was slow and very prolix he would never have sat down again, and God only knows what he would have said; they held on to his coat-tails, and were preparing, in event of failure, some to dive under the benches, and some to bolt out of the nearest door."

We went a great deal into Society those ten months, and we saw much of the two best literary houses of the day, where one always met la haute Bohème, the most interesting Society in London, mixed with the best of everything, and those were Lord Houghton's and Lord Strangford's.

About this time we went to visit Mr. ——, our then publisher, at his country-house, where he showed us all that was comfortable and luxurious, with ten horses in the stable—everything else to match. He gave us a large literary dinner, at which Lord Houghton, with his quiet chuckle, called out across the table, "I say, Burton, don't you feel as if we were drinking out of poor authors' skulls?" Upon which Richard laughed, and tapped his own head for an answer.

Richard was very anxious that Alexandretta should be the chief port in Syria, into whose lap the railway would pour the wealth of the province, for it is the only good port the country possesses on the eastern coast of the Mediterranean. Alexandretta, if freed from its stagnant marshes, would be magnificent; the railway should go to Damascus, Jerusalem, and Aleppo.

With regard to Sir Roderick Murchison, his journal again contained the following, speaking of one of his books:—

"Since these pages went to print Sir R. I. Murchison has passed away, full of years and of honours. I had not the melancholy satisfaction of seeing for the last time our revered Chief, one of whose latest actions was to oppose my reading a paper about the so-called Victoria Nyanza before the Royal Geographical Society; whilst another was to erase my name from the list of the Nile explorers when revising his own biography. But peace be to his manes! I respect the silence of a newly made grave."

We went, for the first time in our lives, and the last, to a great banquet at the Mansion House, which amused us very much. Whenever we wanted to make any remarks at dinner-time we made them in Arabic, thinking that probably no one would understand us. Curiously, the people who sat next to us turned round, and said in Arabic, "Yes, you are perfectly right; we were just thinking the same thing;" and Richard said, "We spoke Arabic thinking nobody would understand us;" and they said, "It is most probable that out of all this huge crowd we are the only four people who happen to speak Arabic, and happen to sit together."

Another very interesting visit we paid was to the Surrey County Lunatic Asylum, Wandsworth Common, where the doctor, who was a friend of my husband's, invited us to spend the day and dine with him, and he showed us over everything; but I know that I, for one, felt awfully glad when we left it; some of the faces that I saw there I can see now if I shut my eyes and think.

In 1872, we were on a visit at Knowsley, the Earl of Derby's, and we planted there a cedar of Lebanon, which we had brought; and we went over the alkali works at St. Helen's, very interesting to Richard, who did not know so much of the "Black Country" as we did. We then went to Uncle Gerard's, where we met the Muriettas (now Marchesa de Santurce), and many other pleasant people. Here we went down some coal-pits (265 fathoms) for further information, and we planted more cedars of Lebanon and a bit of Abraham's oak, which we brought from Mamre, some distance from Hebron.

That year my mother got very ill, and we all assembled in town to be with her. She had been paralyzed for nine years, and, nevertheless, had been strong, active, and cheerful, and enabled in some fashion to enjoy life. Her strong brain kept her alive.

At this time the public, answering an appeal of mine in the Tablet, describing the poverty and destitution of the Syrian Inland Churches, sent me wherewith to furnish six of them, which has never been forgotten out there.

In 1872, poor General Beatson died at New Swindon. Richard sent thirty-two species of plants from the summit of the Libanus to the British Museum; and this year he got the news from Syria that he had gained his cause about the stoning at Nazareth. The Greek Bishop had brought an action against him before the Tribunal, and Richard won it with honour.

He wrote and lectured on the "Stones and Bones of the Haurán," March, 1872, and "Human Remains in Iceland" in late 1872.

I attended the Tichborne trial, and saw Sir John Coleridge examine my cousin, Katty Radcliffe. Richard whispered to me, "The next thing plaintiff will do, will be to call himself Lord Aberdeen." I came home from there, and found the other brother, Father Coleridge, S.J., giving my mother Communion. At this time, too, we attended all the learned societies, where Richard generally made speeches. We also went down to the Duke and Duchess of Somerset's, where we met Lady Ulrica Thynne, the Brinsley Sheridans, and afterwards, at their house, brilliant and fascinating Mrs. Norton.

Charles Reade, the well-known author, who was a great friend of ours, gave us a delightful dinner and pleasant evening, asking a great many actors and actresses to meet us. Sir Frederick Leighton began to paint Richard on the 26th of April, and it was very amusing. Richard was so anxious that he should paint his necktie and his pin, and kept saying to him every now and then, "Don't make me ugly, don't, there's a good fellow;" and Sir Frederick kept chaffing him about his vanity, and appealing to me to know if he was not making him pretty enough. That is the picture that Sir Frederick has now, and is going to leave to the nation; and both Richard and I always retained the pleasantest memory of the many happy hours we passed in his studio. Richard was examined on the Consular Committee, and made them all laugh. He complained that the salary of Santos had been very inadequate to his position; he had been obliged to use his own little capital to supplement. He was asked how his predecessor (a baronet) had managed, and he answered, "By living in one room over a shop, and washing his own stockings." Richard attended the Levée on May 13th.

We went to a Foreign Office party, where Musurus Pasha explained to Richard why he was obliged to go against him, by the order of the Turkish Government about Syria, and Richard said to him, "Well, Pasha, I did not know that you had; but I can tell you that, though I never practically wish evil to my enemies, they all come to grief, and you are bound to have a bit of bad luck on my account." The next day Musurus Pasha fell down and broke his arm. It is an absolute fact that everybody who did my husband an injury had some bad luck.

Richard tried to get Teheran, which was one of the places that he longed for and was vacant, and we knew that three names were sent up to her Majesty for approval; but we also knew, sub rosa, that Mr. (afterwards Sir Ronald) Thompson, a personal friend in their youth of Mr. and Mrs. (afterwards Lord and Lady) Hammond, of the Foreign Office, was to get it.

I brought out "Unexplored Syria" (2 vols.), in which Richard and I and Charley Drake collaborated, on the 21st of June, 1872, while Richard was in Iceland.

Death of my Mother.

Richard sailed on the 4th of June from Leith for Iceland. The 5th of June was one of my most unhappy days. I got up early, and passed the day with my mother. She received Communion at a quarter to one; at 9.30 p.m. she asked to see everybody. We said prayers to her, but did not think her in any danger. At eleven some instinct made me refuse to go home to my lodging. We were summoned suddenly. I ran in and took her in my arms; she turned her head round upon my shoulder, looked at me, breathed a little sigh, and died like a child at a quarter to twelve p.m. All the week she lay in state, the room dressed like a chapel, with flowers and candles, and we, her children, passed all day by her, and had all our religious services in her room. (Richard notes in his journal, "Poor mother died about midnight, June 5th.")

On the 12th of June, attended by all the people she liked best, we buried her at Mortlake.

Richard accepts Trieste.

At last, Lord Granville wrote to me, and asked me if I thought Richard would accept Trieste, Charles Lever having died; and he also advised me to urge him to take it, because they were not likely to have anything better vacant for some time. And I was able to send Richard's acceptance of Trieste to Lord Granville on July 15th. We knew that after a post of £1000 a year, with work that was really diplomatic, and with a promise ahead of Marocco, Teheran, and Constantinople before him, that a commercial town on £600 a year, and £100 office allowance, meant that his career was practically broken; but Richard and I could not afford to starve, and he said he would stick on as long as there was ever a hope of getting Marocco.

Finally we were taken into some sort of favour again. Lord Granville had not understood Richard's letter about wanting to have the Sházlis baptized, and feared that it might result in a Jehád, or religious war, if the baptisms had taken place. Richard told him "he knew it would not." He knew he could carry it through; he was not a man to risk such a matter. His plan was to buy a tract of land, to give these people the means of building themselves cottages, choose their own Shaykh, their own Priest, and make for themselves a little Church. The village was to belong to him, and he would have put it under the protection of his friends amongst the Mohammedans. He would have taken no taxes from them, and no presents or provisions, as other people do, and the consequence is they would have been now a flourishing colony. That was the real cause of the recall; and, as I have said before, Richard said, "That is suffering persecution for justice' sake with a vengeance; but we won't have anything more to do with this subject until I am free from an enlightened and just-minded Government in March, 1891."

On the 26th of August I was going a round of country-house visits in Richard's absence, and arriving at ten o'clock at night at Uncle Gerard's, met the sad news that our youngest and favourite brother, the flower of our flock, Jack Arundell, commanding the Bittern, had died of rheumatic fever between the West Coast of Africa and Ascension, where he is buried—that is to say, he did not die of rheumatic fever, but it was a question of sleep saving him. A very slight dose of opiate had been administered to him to ensure this boon. He had never mentioned the peculiarity in our family of being very sensitive to opiates; he went to sleep and never woke again, to the grief and distress of all on board. He was only thirty-one years of age, was bright and good-looking; he was a dashing officer, with his heart in his profession, and a fine career was before him. He had not had time to hear of our mother's death before he joined her. It was a terrible blow to us.

Richard arrived on the 8th of June in Iceland, embarked for return on 1st of August, and arrived in England from Iceland at eleven at night on the 14th of September.

On the 5th of October, 1872, the day was fixed for Richard to have a tumour cut out of his shoulder or back. He had got it from a blow from a single-stick, when he was off guard and his back was turned. It was an unfair blow, only the man did it in fun; anyway, he said so. He had had it for a long time, and it had frequently opened and discharged of itself, but now it was getting troublesome. Dr. Bird, of 49, Welbeck Street, performed the operation. It was two inches in diameter, and from first to last occupied about twelve minutes. I assisted Dr. Bird. He sat astride on a chair, smoking a cigar and talking all the time, and in the afternoon he insisted on going down to Brighton. He did not wish me to go with him, but I accompanied him to the station. I always liked to wait on him, so I got him his ticket, had his baggage put in, and took him a place in a coupé whilst he went off to buy his book and paper, and then I called the guard. I said, "Guard, my husband is going down to Brighton. I wish you would just look after him, he is not very well;" and I gave him half a crown. Presently an old man of eighty hobbled by on crutches, "Is that him, ma'am?" "No," I said. Next a consumptive boy came by, "Is this him, ma'am?" "No," I said; "not yet." Many passed, and of all those who he thought looked as though they wanted taking care of, he asked the same question, and he got the same answer. Presently Richard came swaggering along, as if the whole station belonged to him—all fencers know the peculiar walk a soldier has who is given much to fencing and broadsword—and I whispered to the guard, "There he is," and I stood by the carriage till the train went, and I heard him whisper to a comrade, "She would never ask me to take care of such a chap as that, unless he was a raving lunatic. I'll take devilish good care I don't go near him; he would probably pitch me out of the carriage."

After this we had a large family party at Wardour Castle, which we enjoyed immensely.

A Greek priest from Syria came to see us, and we took him to a spiritualistic séance. He was dreadfully frightened, and said his prayers out loud all the time.

On his way up to Iceland he went to see Holyrood in Edinburgh, and, visiting Queen Mary's room, exclaimed, "No wonder she sighed for France." He went to the Levée held there by Lord Airlie (the present Earl's father).

The Old Story of shooting People, and a Newer One.

Before I finish with Syria, there is a question I want to set at rest on behalf of both Richard and myself. During my husband's life, from his journey to Mecca in 1853, till his death in 1890, a period of thirty-seven years, a story was current about him, which he had no idea of, and when he did hear it, treated it as a good joke—that when he was on the road to Mecca he killed two Mohammedans, who suspected him of being a Frank and a Christian. He told me it was absolutely false; and, if any one knew what a horror he had of any one taking the life of anything, they would not doubt it for a moment. He would not allow even an animal to be killed, saying that "we had no right to destroy life." One of his greatest remorses was shooting a monkey in his younger days; "it cried like a child," he said, "and I can never forget it." This story did happen to two Englishmen, who were travelling in the desert about this time; and who, in consequence of their unfortunate necessity, never appeared before the public, nor gave an account of their travels.

Now, I mention this incident in connection with Syria (instead of Mecca), because, after my husband died, his mantle in this respect descended upon my shoulders. Mrs. Mentor Mott had assured me on leaving Syria "that I did not leave a single enemy behind me," but it issued from the British Syrian schools long afterwards, that the cause of my husband's recall was that I had shot two men, and wounded a third, because they did not stand up and salute me, and that I was afterwards abandoned and neglected; though it never reached my ears till five days after Richard's death, and that through a missionary's letter to the Newcastle Daily Chronicle, owing, I suppose, to my being a Catholic. He waited twenty years, till my husband could not contradict it, and then did not lose a single instant in publishing this utter fabrication. The fact is, these missionaries get to know a little Syrian Christian Arabic—some more, some less—and perhaps unintentionally they get hold of some wonderful stories, and make mistakes and mischief. This is the true story.

The Truth.

It was in a time of great excitement between Moslems and Christians. I was riding through a village of about thirty-five thousand Moslems. There was a feud between two local Shaykhs, the two principal men of the village. The Consulate favoured one and not the other, who were bullies. I rode through this village alone, having sent the men in attendance on me to do a commission. The son of the unfriendly Shaykh, a youth of twenty-two, wanted to commence the row by attacking me—spat at me, and tried to pull me off my horse. This in the East means volumes, my position there being that of a very great personage. If I had been cowardly, fainted, and screamed, there would not have been a Christian left alive by the evening in that village. In fact, as it was, all the villagers were upon their knees in deprecation of the outrage, but were afraid to interfere with the village bully; so I reined in my horse, and slashed him across the face with my hunting-whip, and he howled and roared as if he were about five years old. The noise brought my men up sharply, whom he had not seen, having thought I was alone; seeing what was going on, they flung themselves upon him, and I think he was very sorry for himself when they had done with him. There was a general scuffle, in which somebody's pistol went off in his belt, because they have the bad habit of keeping the trigger down on the hammer, instead of at half-cock; but the ball fortunately went into a wall, and nobody was hurt.

When I got home, a strong body of people from the village came up to tell me that the youth, to revenge his beating, had collected all the most riotous people of the village and was coming up at night to burn our house (Sir Richard Wood's house in the Anti-Lebanon, by the way, which he lent to Richard). I had not enough people about me for defence, my husband having ridden a little distance in the desert and taken most of our men; so I sent a mounted messenger over to the Wali, and the next morning at dawn I was horrified at my husband's confidential Afghan, in full kawwás uniform, armed to the teeth, coming to tell me that my horse was saddled at the door, and that I must get up and ride down to the plain; he would explain as we went. I found the plain covered with troops, who saluted me as I rode down, and then the Colonel rode up to me, and told me that the Wali had ordered him to burn and sack the village. I told him that if he did such a thing my husband and I would leave the country at once; that these things were quite contrary to our English ideas. He said, "Then I put myself at your orders." I told him that since he was so kind as to let me have what I wanted, he was to assemble the principal Moslems of the village, and to bind them over by an oath not to touch the Christians, who were chiefly very poor, Greek Orthodox by religion, and Fellahín of the Anti-Lebanon, and he should take the youth and put him in prison for a while—say, a month.

This was carried out, and at my request he drew off the troops, and there was great rejoicing in the village. For this conduct, for which the writer to the Newcastle Daily Chronicle has induced many people to believe that my husband was recalled, I received a complimentary letter from the Consul-General, Mr. Eldridge, who did not like me because I hated his way with Richard, and the thanks of the Governor-General, the Wali Rashíd Pasha, for having saved them a great deal of trouble, both then and in the expected riot which Richard prevented. Richard was also very pleased with me. I should be ashamed to mention these things, but I do not mean to die and to leave any attack upon my husband not cleared up, nor any on myself, if I happen to hear of them.

When the youth was let out of prison, he became my most devoted servant. The year after we left, his mother, who was very fond of me, did some trifling thing which he had forbidden her; they say it was selling eggs in the market. His father was absent, and, be the offence what it may, we received a letter to tell us that he called his mother into the courtyard, assembled the household, and with his own hands he strangled her, and buried her in the courtyard under the stones. I never heard whether his father said anything when he came home, but I did hear that while she was dying, she extended her arms to our house, and that she called piteously, "Ah, Ya Sitti! ah, Ya Sitti! if thou wert here this abomination never could have been done."

It is monstrous for any missionary of the British Syrian schools or otherwise, to pretend that my husband was recalled, because I defended myself against the man who attacked me. The real cause was very different; it was his one endeavour to do what England professes to admire (theoretically, anyway), what Richard did in practice, namely, sacrifice himself for Christianity's sake!

Difficulty of English Officials doing their Duty.

And here I must be allowed a by-word. People in small official life are always subject to these trials, and, knowing this, how careful a Minister at home should be in listening to complaints! The lower an officer's grade, the lower the people he has to contend with. The Consul deals with all classes; when he rises to be Minister or Ambassador, he is above the mob, which cannot touch him. The enemies of the Consul will crawl in the dust to the Minister. Meantime the junior official has to run the gauntlet of the mud pelted at him, and if his Chief at home listens to it, a weak man dare not do his duty for fear of losing his post; the strong man does his duty, but he knows he has no chance of rising. Only the bad man succeeds.

He arrives at a new place, and all the bad people make a dead set at him to take up and protect their evil doings and to join them against their local enemies. If he does it he is upheld by them, but loses caste with the decent classes; if he does not, they form a cabal, and even pay people to write home complaint after complaint against him, till the Minister for Foreign Affairs, who knows nothing of these matters, says, "There must be something wrong about this man, or I should not get bad reports of him right and left. It is evident he won't do for the place." He recalls his good, honest, brave servant, who was doing his Master credit, and he puts him on a shelf to pine in useless inactivity, and breaks his spirit, and sends out another, who naturally says, "I am duly warned what to do. I will take care not to do what my unfortunate predecessor did, but the reverse." He has learnt that the "decent people" only looked on, or if one or two did take his part, they were not believed, or not listened to. He does as the others bid him—"wins golden opinions"—and the Minister at home thinks it is all as it should be. Who shall blame the man? He has, perhaps, a wife and children to support, and he yearns for promotion. If he sees but one road to his Chief's favour, that of "hearing no complaints of him," what shall he do? What consolation has he when he is driven out of the world by penury, and has to earn his pittance in some out-of-the-way settlement? How easy are the sacrifices of an independent man, who can afford to bide his time!

I have seen many cases of this kind during thirty years of Consular life, and personally I was always acting the part of Job's wife, but unsuccessfully. Richard had no chance of rising to his proper position; he was much too good. The "light of God" was upon him. The Home Authorities heard all the complaints; he did not report to them the good he did, but I will cry it from the house-tops until all hear it. He gained respect and influence over all classes. All the good and the poor loved and trusted him; the bad feared him. He had pre-eminently the Divine gift of pity. He had some talisman for attracting the people; and when they got a written order from him, they would kiss it and put it on their heads as if it were a Sultan's Firman. He was more than equal to his position if he had been only commonly backed up at home.

With so many races, creeds, and tongues, all at variance, in an Oriental intriguing focus, it is impossible to please everybody. You cannot well walk down the street without treading upon somebody's toes. It is difficult for a man who does his duty in a hotbed of corruption to be universally popular, and there are some whose disapproval is a proof of integrity. One must have a straight line of duty. If a person wants you to do something wrong, and you act uprightly and refuse, they are sure to write to some great personage at home, to ask them to complain at head-quarters. They never mention what they asked you to do—what bribe they offered—but invent something against you. If they are listened to, they can always keep you in hot water, as cela encourage les autres.

"To R. F. B. "Ever remember, 'tis Pretension rules Half men, three-thirds of women—to wit, the fools. In yonder coterie see, my friend, yon pair Of vapid witlings waging wordy war, While female senates hear, in trembling awe, This thing and that thing laying down the law. Murmured applause shall fill each greedy ear, Of 'Charming man!' 'Delightful, clever dear!' And Lady Betty lends her sweetest smile T' inflame their ardour and their toils beguile. Yet those same lips no word of worth afford To thy true heart, strong brain, quick pen, sharp sword. Pine not, brave soul! he whom such trifles vex, Unfit to serve, much less can rule the sex. Ask not the remedy—go, win a name, Famous or infamous, 'tis much the same; For silly girls and shallow youths make game Of God-like nature, all unknown to fame; But souls select, instinctive, recognize Congenial spirits unmarked to vulgar eyes. You asked what caused this egotistic strain— The fit is on me; let me here explain. Fools, seeing in youth a hero's value spurned, Ignored a heart and soul that fondly yearned And burned for honours honourably earned; His teens long passed, exiled in distant land, A noble heart held out the long-sought hand, Taught him to labour, strengthened him to wait The turn of fortune's tide that makes us great. Nor years' long lapse, nor change, nor fate can raze From Mem'ry's page those words of kindly praise. If one man's name on our heart's page be penned, 'Tis his—no need to name our true best friend."[10] ——Isabel Burton.

Some of us are left in the world to fight our battle. There are strong souls who can resist all attacks; nothing overthrows them, nothing can even hurt them. The devil makes war upon the world, but especially upon them. Nevertheless, it is as hard for a brave spirit to hold its own, and see its fancied treasures falling away from it in the hour of need, as for a gallant and successful general, on the eve of victory, in the turn of the battle, to be deserted by his troops, and left, in spite of his own qualities, to disgrace and death.

Conclusion of his Damascus Career.

Richard's character presented a singularity in the Levant, wondered at by all, condemned by many, approved of or not by those who would suffer or rejoice under his rule. He was a perfectly honest man—I do not allude only to money. His enemies rejoiced at it, his friends trembled for him, whilst indifferents were only astounded at his folly. An attempt was made to console him with the hazy promise of a future, which seemed, however, rather to consist in the good opinion of good men than in anything tangible or useful. For him, truth to a principle meant self-annihilation. He had always done the noble thing, and now, because he did those noble things, he was virtually regarded as unfit for the very employment for which God and Nature and his own life had peculiarly fitted him.

My old friend Charles Reade told us that "in less than two hundred years the first stone of honesty in biography" will have to be laid, and then he proceeds to relate how his "hero and martyr" has been treated by the world; how he had earned the gold medal of the Humane Society twice, and the silver twelve times; how he has never received either, but is a blind and destitute old man, living in a chimney corner, deserted and forgotten by the world, and shunned by those he has saved; how his only public honour is being permitted to cross a certain bridge without paying the common toll, from whose waters beneath he has saved so many lives at the risk of his own. He describes his hero as one of Nature's gentlemen, fit company for an Emperor, a man without his fellow, who adorns our country. He was earning thirty shillings a week when charity towards his fellow-creatures induced him to throw away his sight for the public good, and the parish allows him three and sixpence a week. He tells us that he better deserves every order and decoration the State can bestow than does any gentleman or nobleman whose bosom is a constellation; "yet," he says proudly, "not a cross or ribbon has ever ascended from the vulgar level. Why? because," he adds, "this world, in the distribution of glory, is a heathen in spite of Christ, a fool in spite of Voltaire." I quote Charles Reade's story to show that nowadays England does not confer honour on merit in any class of life. The higher and lower orders share the same fate. Honours follow a certain red-tape routine, not noble deeds, and often mock their wearer; whilst many a noble brow looks up to heaven with patient, uncomplaining dignity, adorned only by God and Nature, and by a life of chivalrous actions. The English public are, however, seldom wrong when once they know the truth, and perhaps the best and truest honour is their good verdict.

Whilst here, we saw the Oriental papers every fortnight, and all the accounts we read of our old home were of "Arab raids, of insults to Europeans, of miserable, starving people, of sects killing one another in open day, of policemen firing recklessly into a crowd to wing a flying prisoner, and a general fusilade in the streets; of sacked villages, and plundered travellers." We read of Salahíyyeh spoken of as a "suburb of Damascus, which enjoys an unenviable reputation;" of innocent Salahíyyeh men being shot down by mistake for criminals, "because the people of Salahíyyeh are such confirmed ruffians, that they are sure to be either just going to do mischief or just returning from it." That is the place where for two or more years we slept with open doors and windows, and I freely walked about alone throughout the twenty-four hours, even when my husband was absent, and left with Moslem servants.

Having lifted any possible cloud which may have hung over the real history of Richard's removal from his Eastern post—the only suitable one he ever held—it is unnecessary for me to enter into any further explanation of the causes of the base detractions from which he has suffered. His case is not altogether a new one in the human history, and the true explanation—the only real explanation—of it, which can face the light of day, has been admirably expressed in the lines written by the most brilliant statesman the Foreign Office ever sent to the East—the "great Eltchi," whom I and all lovers of the Orient speak of with admiration, respect, and pride—Lord Stratford de Redcliffe—and which are applicable to Richard in every sense, except that, so far from ever "spurning the gaping crowd," he always sacrificed himself for the poor, the ignorant, and the oppressed.

"Nay, shines there one with brilliant parts endowed, Whose inborn vigour spurns the gaping crowd? For him the trench is dug, the toils are laid, For him dull malice whets the secret blade. One fears a master fatal to his ease, Or worse, a rival born his age to please; This dreads a champion for the cause he hates, That fain would crush what shames his broad estates. Leagued by their instincts, each to each is sworn; High on their shields the simpering fool is borne."[11]

END OF VOL. I.

INDEX. Abana, river, i. 187, 484, 512 Abans, the, i. 202, 217 Abbazia, ii. 354, 355, 358 Abdallee, ii. 95 Abd Al-Majid, Sultan, i. 233 Abd el Aziz, ii. 544 Abd el Kadir, i. 19, 20, 180, 237, 470, 485; his history, 486; a Suti, 551; meeting held at the house of, 552; and the Christian converts, 563: faithful to Lady Burton, 588; his death, ii. 247 Abd el Karim Matar, i. 549-551; his death, 556 Abdo, ii. 60 Abdullah the Bushiri, Burton's experiences as, i. 155-158, 170 Abdullah Effendi, chief of the Ulema at Damascus, i. 469 Abdullah Muhtásib, history of, ii. 516 Abdullah bin Nasib, a friend in need, i. 288, 313 Abercrombie, ii. 597 Aberdare, Lord, at the Geographical Congress at Venice, ii. 222, 223 Abernethy, ii. 233 Abingdon, i. 77; Sundays at, 78 Abraham, Walter, note from, i. 182 Abú Diráj, ii. 606 Abyssinia, a royal salute in, i. 208 Acanny gold, line quality of, i. 368 Accra, i. 371 Adelsberg Caves, the, ii. 26, 124, 347, 377, 378 Aden, i. 201, 328; local jealousies at, 198; ii. 60, 561 Adige, river, ii. 2 Adye, Sir John, ii. 310 Afghan War, the, i. 94, 95; end of the, 99, 137; 1838-39, ii. 535 Afghanistan, our policy in, ii. 538, 539 Africa, Burton and Speke's expedition to, i. 257-327, 464, 465; ii. 38, 421-426, 567-577; differences between them, i. 312-316, 389; ii. 14; Colonel Grant's letter on, 421; Lady Burton's reply, 422-426 ——, explorers in the nineteenth century, i. 271; qualifications necessary for, 287; should go as traders, 300; troubles of, 291, 302 ——, food in West, ii. 264 ——, gold in West, and Burton's notes on, i. 361-374; ii. 178, 179, 224, 227, 230 ——, lakes in, authorities confused the, i. 299 ——, map of, sketch of, i. 254 ——, East, natives of, Burton's account of the, i. 260; ii. 578, 580; suicide amongst the, 581; marriage amongst the, 581, 582; no constructive powers, 582; deficient in morality, 583; savage rudeness of, 584, 585; language of the, 585; religion of the, 585, 586; superstitions of the, 586 ——, native porters in, i. 265, 266; ii. 571, native tribes in, Batua, i. 367 Botonga, gold-washing tribes of, 366; Galla, 260; Kafir, 260; Kisáwáhili, ii. 583; Lake, i. 300; Masai, 260, 261, 263; Mnyanwezi, falsehoods of the, ii. 579; Somal, i. 260; Wabuha, 300: Wadigo, 262; Waganda, ordeal amongst the, ii. 587; Wagogo (Wamasai),i. 289; Wáhha, 300; Wahuma (Wamasai), 321; Wahumba, 286, 287, 289; Wajiji, 300; an account of their country, 306; Wakamba, 260; Wakaránga, 300, 363 n.; Wakaguru, 284; Wakimbu, 297; Wakwati, 289; ordeal of meat in the, ii. 587; Wakwivi, i. 284; Wamasai, 318: Wamrina, 292; Waníka, 260, 261; Wanyamwezi, the donkey of the, 282, 289; the Caravan, 291, 292, 297, 363 n.; non-payment of porters of the, ii. 422, 424; will not enter a house, 582; voracity of the, 583; trial by poison among the, 587; Warori, i. 325; Warudi, 321; Warundi, a warlike tribe, 303; Wasoga, 318; Wasagara Mbumi, 285; Wasakuma, 319; Wasawahili, Caravan of free men belonging to the, 291; Waségeju, 262; Wasembára, 262; Washenzy, 262; Wasumbára, 260, 263; Watatúru, 289, 300; Watúta, 298, 300; a warlike tribe, 306; Wavínza, 300, 307; Wazarámo, a fierce tribe, 292, 300; trial by ordeal amongst the, ii. 587; Wazegura, i. 263; a village of the, 268; trial by ordeal amongst the, ii. 587 Africa, scenery in, i. 284 ——, steamers in 1863, i. 376 ——, wild men in, i. 267 Afzal Khan, ii. 522, 538 Agbome, capital of Dahomè, i. 381 Agha Khan Mahallati, i. 145; ii. 76 Agnosticism, Burton's, i. 546 Agra, i. 117 Agrippa, Cornelius, ii. 146 Aguilar, Mrs. D', i. 68, 84 Ahmed el Sahhár, visions of Christ vouchsafed to, i. 557, 558 Ahmed Khan, ii. 478, 479 Ahriman, ii. 472 Aigle, ii. 361 Aimée, Mdlle., i. 439 Airey, General, i. 229 Akabah, Gulf of, ii. 55, 126 Akim, gold in, i. 368, 371 Akkas, ii. 123, 124; illustration of the, 123 Akrabeh, i. 525 Aláh district, i. 515 Albania, the coast of, ii. 117; the future of, 511, 547, 552 Albatross, i. 99 Alber, Baron D', ii. 53 Alcazar in Brazil, i. 439 Aleppo, i. 525; inscription at, 526 Alexandretta, i. 594 Alexandria, Burton goes from, to Cairo as a dervish, i. 171; school for native girls in, ii. 79; Burton attacked and robbed in, 177—179; City of, 128, 594-596; bombardment of, 237; police in, 597 Alfieri, ii. 503 Alford, Lady Marian, a kind friend, i. 379; a pleasant entertainment given by, 593; ii. 135, 249, 331; her death, 356 Algiers, ii. 391; the City of, 393 Ali Abdullah, ii. 61 Ali bin Nasir, i. 260 Alison, Mr., i. 231, 243 Allen, Mr. Heron, ii. 296, 329 Allen's Indian Mail on Burton, i. 182 Alligators at Pangany, i. 263 Ally Sloper sent a diploma to Lady Burton for her "Arabian Nights," ii. 344; sent one to Sir Richard, 345 Alma, battle of, i. 228 Alps, Carnian, ii. 15 Alvarez attempts to destroy the body of St. Francis Xavier, ii. 111 Amayr bin Said el Shaksi, i. 321 Amazons of Dahomè, i. 383 Amberley, Lord, on supernaturalism, ii. 142, 144 Amir el Kebir, ii. 86; his place, 89 Ampthill, Lord, i. 231 Anatolia, ii. 551 Anchieta of Brazil, ii. 461 Anderson, H. T., letters to Burton on behalf of the Government, ii. 565-567 Andrassy, Count, ii. 501, 546 Angst, Mr., ii. 400 Animals, in Baroda, i. 109; at Pangany, 262-264; near the Usagara Mountains, 283, 288 Anjar, i. 506 Antar represents Julius Cæsar in Syria, i. 523 Anthropological discoveries, Burton's, ii. 27 —— Institute, Burton lectures at the, ii. 226; Burton Vice-President of the, 311 —— Society, dinner to Burton, given by the, 1878, i. 398 Anti-Libanus, i. 498-501, 506; a second visit to the, 520-524; incompleteness of maps of the, 520 Antommarchi, cast of Napoleon ascribed to, i. 6, 7, 9, 10 Ants, in the desert, i. 203, 265, 285; poisonous, 288, 308; in Brazil, 428 Antwerp, i. 84 Appo, Chief, re gold in the Nánwá Valley, ii. 230, 231 Aquilea, Museum at, ii. 30 Arab, merchant, Burton disguised as an, i. 200, 201; women, 202, 472; merchants in Africa, 289; hospitality, 290, 309 n.; travellers in the East, 291; accounts of Lake Nyanza, 317; chiefs at Mgeta, 325; at Lagos, 359; dances, 505; tents (illustration), ii. 387; Burton's account of the, 579; treatment of slaves in Zanzibar, 588; merchants ruined by their slaves, 589 Arab Haddídin tribe, i. 525 Arabi, ii. 597, 598, 600, 601; his history, 602 Arabia, gold in, i. 362 "Arabian Nights," Burton commences his edition of the, ii. 274, 296; earlier editions of the, 283, 284; lines by Swinburne to Burton on his edition of the, 286; Burton's note on the, 285; Press notices of the, 287-290, 292, 617-627; his own notes to the, 291, 292; published, 294, 438, 440; difficulties in preparing the, 321, 323; profit on the publication of the, 338, 442; Lady Burton's edition of the, 357 Arabic Library at Damascus, i. 481 Arabic unexpectedly spoken in London, i. 595 Arafat, i. 177, 185; ii. 467 Arbuthnot, Mr. F. T., ii. 61, 62, 415 Architecture, Bashan, in Syria, i. 515 Argélés, spring in, i. 58; Society in, 59 Argentine Republic, Burton visits the, i. 453 Argonaut, article on Burton from the, ii. 268 Argyll, Duke of, i. 76 Arif Effendi, a Christian convert in Syria, i. 562 Aristotle, i. 191 n.; on the anthropism, ii. 141, 469 Arlberg, a dangerous journey over the, ii. 399 Armanika, Sultan of Karágwah, i. 310 Armenia, ii. 548, 556 Arnauts, the, ii. 592 Arnold, Dr., i. 76, 80 Arnold, Sir Edwin and Lady, ii. 294; death of Lady, 376 Arthur, Colonel Sir George, i. 102 Arundell, Mr. Henry, approves of his daughter's engagement and marriage, i. 340, 343; his hospitality, ii. 160, 257; his illness, 293, 297; his politics, 298; his death, 316, 322 Arundell, Mrs., her children's esteem for her, i. 332 n.; opposes her daughter's engagement to Burton, 340; her illness, 330, 332, 337, 341, 595; receives Captain and Mrs. Burton, 343; her death, 597 Arundell, Jack, death of, i. 598 Arundell, Lord, i. 331 Ashantee, gold in, i. 368, 372; necessary precautions in fighting the natives of, ii. 20 Ashburton, Lady, ii. 21, 135 Asses in Africa, i. 281, 282; suffer from the ants, 288 Athenæum, Mrs. Burton's letters on Burton's share in the discoveries in Africa, i. 465; lines to R. Burton on the "Arabian Nights" from the, ii. 286 Atneh, i. 472 Aubertin, Mr., i. 420, 425, 434, 436; ii. 135; in Trieste, 250; 275, 276 Auckland, Lord, i. 99, 131 Aumale, Duc d', i. 347 Aurungzeb, second royal possessor of the Koh-i-noor, ii. 94 Australia, gold in, i. 367; horse-breeding, 541 Austria, a child-murder in, i. 22 n.; excursions in, ii. 167; honour shown to Sir Richard by, 416-418; politics in, 497, 498; political health of, 1877, 500, 501; Panslavism in, 501, 509; occupation of Bosnia by, 501, 545, 546, 554; wiser policy of, 507; police in, 508; a Triregno, 509, 546; occupation of Herzegovina, 546, 554; a great Slav power, 546; her opponents, 555 ——, Emperor Joseph I., ii. 550 ——, Emperor of, ii. 24; his popularity, 25; his stud, 30; entertains the English fleet, 217; at Trieste, 239; visits Dalmatia, 546, 555 ——, Empress of, her loveliness, ii. 24, 25; gives Mrs. Burton her portrait, 365 Austria, on board the, ii. 132 Austria Hungary, Home rule in, ii, 304, 307 Autobiography, a short, by R. Burton, i. 151-158 Ayesha, ii. 77 Aylonda Valley, the, i. 204 Aytoun, Mr., ii. 530 Ayyah Shirdon, the, i. 216 Azoff, Sea of, i. 228 B B's, the literary, 1878, ii. 135 Ba'albak, i. 500, 501 Bacon on death, ii. 581 Baddeley, Mr. St. Clair, ii. 236 Badger, Dr. Percy, ii. 162, 356 Badli system in Sind, i. 142 Baggs, Mr., i. 371 Bagnières de Bigorres, i. 55 Bagshaw, Robert, i. 4, 93, 231 Bahia, i. 418 Bahrain Talpur, legend of the murder of, ii. 491 Bahr-el-Abiad, i. 313 n. Bahret el Huleli, Waters of Merom, i. 509, 543. Bain, Mr., i. 296 n. Baines, Tuckey, i. 30 Bajee Ráo adopted Nana Sahib, ii. 83; his war with the English, 84; pagodas in his palace, 84 Baker, Mrs., Burton's grandmother, i. 23, 26, 27, 35, 67 Baker, Georgina, i. 19, 24, 25, 31, 67 Baker, Dr. Grenfell, joins Burton at Trieste, ii. 351; has an unpleasant journey, 352; 361, 381; with Burfon, 394, 406, 413, 415; rescues a robin, 409; at Sir Richard's funeral, 417 Baker, Richard, jun., i. 16, 23 Baker, Sir Samuel, i. 457; his discoveries, ii. 39; rewards given to, 47, 48; on Rauf Pasha, 196, 197 Baker, Colonel Valentine, ii. 310; death of, 354 Balaclava, i. 229, 230 Baldeza, Gonçales, i. 362 Ballarat, s.s., the, ii. 310 Balliol College, i. 1840, 80 Balzac, i. 328, 329 Balzeny, the, i. 220, 221 Bancroft, Mrs., ii. 297; at Davos, 404 Bandora, journey from Bombay to, ii. 62; Society at, 62 Banias, i. 509 Banyans, civility of the, i. 277 Barada, river of Damascus, i. 498 Baraguay d'Hilliers, General, i. 234 Barbacena, i. 440 Baretto, Francis, voyage of, sixteenth century, i. 363-366> Barham House, i. 15 Bari and Isa, poem by Burton, ii. 67 Baroch, i. 138 Baroda, 1842, sport in, i. 109; the government of, 113, 114; English Society in, 1842, 114; insects at, 122; City of, 136; races at, 137; in the rainy season, 113, 137; gold found near, 1840, 365; Burton's visit to, 1876, ii. 63 ——, Gaikwar of, government of the, i. 106, 134; sport at the Court of the, 136; his treatment of peasants who found gold, 365 n. Baronetcy in the Burton family, i. 11, 13, 14 Barra, river, gold in the, i. 372, 422 Barras, description of Zumbo by, i. 365 Bashi-Bazouks, meaning of the word, i. 239; in a state of siege, 244, 245 Bashir Talkur, experiments on cures by magic, ii. 150, 151 Bassa, Burton's visits to, i. 439 Bassein, ii. 100, 102 Bat, note on Captain Burton from the, ii. 300; note on his pension from the, 328; reviews of the "Arabian Nights" from the, 617, 624 Bates, H. W., i. 428; note to Burton on the Geographical Congress in Venice, ii. 223 Bath, meeting of the British Association, i. 389, 405; ii. 425, 426 Batoum, ii. 548, 556 Battaglia, excursions from, ii. 36, 37 Battus, i. 238, 241 Bayless, Mr., i. 460 Bayonet Exercise, his book on, i. 165, 166; ii. 11, 45 Beaconsfield, Lord, i. 534 n.; on great men, 571; at Hatfield, ii. 134; views on evolution, 142; death of, 212; a pilgrimage to his grave, 236, 498; on Trieste, 555 Beatrice, Princess, ii. 236 Beatson, General, i. 230, 232, 235; his career, 236; Burton on his Staff, 236, 240; ii. 12, 45; his letter to (Lord Stratford, i. 239; his character, 239; leaves the Dardanelles, 245; unfairly treated, 246, 247; end of the trial of, 248; his death, 595 Beatson's Horse, i. 239, 240; triumph of discipline amongst, 245 Beaumont, Lady Margaret, ii. 357 Beauséjour, i. 18 Beaver, Captain Philip, i. 350 Bedawi, in the desert, i. 173, 175, 202, 205, 472-476; the hill tribes of the, 493, 494; blood-feud of the, 496; women, 521; and Fellahín, 526; camel-drivers, ii. 57; their unusual conduct in the murder of rainier, 612 Bedawin Wuld Ali tribe, a visit to the, i. 512 Bedr Beg wounded, i. 494 Beke, Dr., i. 365, 367; on the Lunar Mountains, 368; 406; on the Nile, 408 Belgians, the King of the, sent for Burton, ii. 176 Bells in England, 1698, i. 77 Beloch chief, Burton's account of a visit to a, ii. 480-495 —— mercenaries, i. 243, 265, 269, 272; a tea-party, ii. 485; dinner, i. 487, 488 Belzoni, death of, i. 386 Benin, Burton's notes on, i. 360 Benjamin, tomb of, i. 528 Bennett Edwards, Mrs., on marriage, ii. 374 Bentinck, Lord W., i. 17 Berberah, i. 198; value of, 199; Burton at, 217, 219; Burton attacked at, 220-223; 368; the Egyptians in, ii. 60; 561, 562 Berberi tribes, the, i. 214 Berkeley, Major, i. 265; ii. 139, 465 Berne, ii. 360; a unique Swiss sword at, 375 Bernhardt, Mdlle. Sara, ii. 224 Berosus on Abraham, ii. 470 Bertoldstein, ii. 121 Bertrand, Count, i. 6, 8-10 Bertrand, Mme., and the cast of Napoleon, i. 6, 7, 9, 10 Besant, Mr. Walter, on Palmer, ii. 609, 611 Bethábara, i. 542 Beust, Count, ii. 500 Beyrout, i. 573 Bhagi, the Bedawin, i. 201 Bhendi Bazar, Bombay, i. 100; ii. 61, 69; mixture of races in the, 101 Bhit, ii. 493 n.; ode to the men of, 493 Bhugang, Burton's favourite game-cock, i. 145; death of, 159; ii. 66; and the cock-fight, 477 Bianconi, i. 397 Bibi, the, i. 135 Bible, on slavery, i. 358; on Tadmor, 475; quotations from the Exodus, ii. 209 n.; Ecclesiastes, 473 Bight of Biafra, i. 385 Bird, Miss Alice, ii. 315 Bird, Dr. G., i. 121, 122; the Burtons marry from his house, 342; 363, 598; ii. 161; in Venice, 174, 175, 332, 333 Birds, in Baroda, i. 109, 110; Burton saved in the desert by a, 215, 515; in the Usagara Mountains, 283; near the Makata, 285; in Brazil, 426 Birnie, Mr. R., i. 10 Birt, Mrs. Louisa, ii. 211 Bishop, Miss, visits Mrs. Burton in Trieste, ii. 189-271, 253; meets her at Marienbad, 275 Bismarck, i. 32; ii. 318, 497; in Cavour's place, 504; on Italy and Trieste, 504, 556 Bitumen in Syria, i. 509 Black and White, note on Burton's tomb from, ii. 419 Blake, Dr., ii. 156 Blake, Dr. Carter, ii. 29 Blanc, Louis, i. 347 Blois, R. Burton's early life in, i. 33, 35 Bludan, village of, i. 498 Blyth, Mr. E., i. 145 Bodleian Library, Burton tries to borrow a manuscript from the, ii. 323 Boileau, Ensign, i. 97 Bokhara, ii. 538, 542 ——, Amir of, i. 114 Bologna, ii. 282 Bolton, Sir J., ii. 331 Bomba, King of Naples, and the cholera, i. 51 Bombay, 1842, i. 100, 101, 120, 129; routes from Baroda to, 120, 124, 132, 138; Society in, 1842, 102-104, 130-133; Burton's visit to, 1876, ii. 59, 61, 97, 98, 100 Bombay Native Infantry, 18th, Burton's brother officers in the, i. 106, 107, 110, 123, 134; moved to Sind, 124-126; sent to Gharra, 128; marches to Bahawalpur, 147 ——, 29th, ii. 69 ——, 30th, ii. 69 Bonnat, Mr., ii. 231 Bonwick, Mr., ii. 140 Boomerang, note on horse-breeding in Australia from the, i. 541 Booth, General, ii. 409 Bora, wind in Trieste, ii. 5, 18, 175, 176, 340, 509 Borneo, diamonds in, ii. 529, 530 Bosnian, Mr., letters on gold, i. 368-368 Bosnia, occupied by Austria, ii. 501, 502 n., 506, 546, 554; wealth of, 510 Bosquet, General, i. 229 Bouira, ii. 391 Boulogne, in 1850, i. 165; a cold journey, ii. 51 Bourbaki, i. 241 Bourke, Mr. Terence, ii. 388 Boville, Mr., i. 247, 247 n. Bowditch, i. 317 Boyd, Mr., i. 134 Braid, Dr. John, and hypnotism, ii. 144, 145 Bramwell, Baron, i. 247 Brassy, Lieutenant, i. 143 Brazil, slaves in, i. 422; Mrs. Burton's illness in, 423; storms in, 423, 429; social life in, 423, 426; music in, 426; history of, 426, 427; drawbacks to life in, 427-429; aborigines of, 435; native food in, 436; ii. 264; elections in, i. 436; a holiday expedition in, 440; gems in the Highlands of, ii. 529; iron-making in 533, 534 —— , Emperor and Empress of, 437, 439; ii. 358 ——, Imperial family of, i. 437-439 Brazza, De, ii. 237 Brenner Pass, the, ii. 2, 321 Brett, Brigadier-General, i. 245 Brett, W. J., lines on Sir R. Burton Brigham Young, i. 338 Bright, John, i. 235 Brighton, ii. 135 Brindisi Cathedral, ii. 382 Brinjaris, Hindu tribe of, ii. 82 Broadbent, Dr., ii. 265 Brock, Mr., Vice-Consul at Trieste, ii. 3, 168; celebrates his fiftieth year of Consular service, 189; retires from his post, 241 Broome, Sir F. Napier, ii. 405 Broughton, Andrew, ii. 369 Brown, Rev. Mr., i. 371 Browning, Mrs. E. Barrett, i. 63; lines on death by, ii. 416 Browning, R., lines by, i. 329 Bruges, i. 84 Brugsch Bey, ii. 599 Brun, Mr. Malte, i. 365 n. Brun Rollet, M., i. 317 Brydone, Dr., i. 94 Bubu, i. 108, 109, 135 Buchanan, Rev. Dr. Claude, worried the Inquisitors at Goa, ii. 112 Buckboard, an American carriage, i. 429 Buckle, Mr., i. 347, 357; effect of his "History of Civilization," 491; his grave, 492 Buda Pest, ii. 505; like Dublin, 506 Buddha, i. 188 n.; refused to recognize Ishwara, ii. 469 Buddhism, ii. 463, 466, 468; three ages of, 472 Buddhist temple at Karla, ii. 83 Buez, Dr., on the spread of cholera, ii. 513, 514 Buist, Dr., editor of the Bombay paper, i. 118, 132, 145, 199; ii. 533, 560 Bulak Museum, ii. 599 Bulgaria, ii. 547, 552 Bull-fight in Portugal, i. 416, 457 Bull-terrier, i. 96 Bullocks in Gujarat, i. 110 Bülow, Mme. von, ii. 50 Bunsen, Chevalier, i. 419 Burckhardt, i. 169, 174 Burke, i. 80 Burke, Sir Bernard, on Captain Burton's pedigree, i. 397 Burnaby, Col. F., death of, ii. 279 Burns, lines from, i. 249 Burns, Alexander, i. 94 Burton, Captain, murdered, i. 338 Burton genealogy, i. 2, 3; family, history of the, 11-14 Burton, Bishop of Killala, i. 2 Burton, Rev. Edward, i. 2, 4, 13 Burton, Edward, i. 15, 29, 38; in Pisa, 63; at a parsonage, 67, 88; at Cambridge, 88 Burton, Edward, in Africa, ii. 149 Burton, Mrs. Edward, i. 2; her courage, 24 Burton, Francis, i. 4; takes a cast of Napoleon, 6; fate of the cast, 9, 104 his death, 11 Burton, Hagar, and Sir Richard, 251-253, 255 Burton, Isabel, Lady, press criticisms of her earlier works, i. vi.; her reverence for Sir Richard, ix.-xiv., ii. 257-259; her theory of a man's nature, ix.; ii. 257; goes to Paris with the relics of Napoleon, i. 11, 375; received anonymous letters respecting the baronetcy in the Burton family, 13, 14; at Boulogne, 165, 166; first sees Captain Burton, 166, 167; second meeting with him, 249; he proposes to her, 250; again meets Captain Burton, 329, 330; receives a message from Zanzibar, 329; her illness, 338; goes to Burton Constable, 339; joins Burton in London, 340; her marriage, 340, 342; forgiven by her mother, 343, 344; her early married life, 344; visit to Fryston, 347, 348; goes to Court, 345; her occupations during her husband's first absence, 375; her first voyage to Africa, 376-379; at Madeira 378, 379; at Teneriffe, 379-381; visits paid in 1864 by, 395-397 appeals to Lord Russell to give Captain Burton another Consulate, 415; in Lisbon, 416, 417; her fear of cockroaches, 416; her return to England, 417; starts for Brazil, 418; has fever in Rio, 419; makes a home in Brazil, 422; in search of provisions in Brazil, 434; learns fortune-telling in Brazil, 435; her escape from a shark, 437; with the Imperial family, 437; drives an engine, 440; a holiday in Brazil, 440; sprains her foot, 446; sends the priest to the slave hospital, 447; a lonely ride in Brazil, 447, 448 her return to Rio, 448, 449; her second sight when mesmerized by Captain Burton, 450, 452; returns to London, 453; tries to work the Iporanga mines in London, 453, 454; her adventure at Bahia, 454; her work in London, 455; meets her husband at Southampton, 458; visits Shrewsbury and France, 458, 459; her journey to Turin, 460, 461; her work in London when Captain Burton went to Damascus, 463; leaves Europe for Damascus, 467, 468; her ride through the desert, 472-479; her life in Damascus, 481, 499, 500; her receptions at Damascus, 485; her defence of Lady Ellenborough, 487; prepares to defend the house at Damascus, 504; her pets, 505; her account of the warning sent to her husband, 518, 519; refuses bribery, 572; her account of Syria, 573; last days in Syria, universally regretted, 585-589; at Beyrout, 589; goes to the Foreign Office, 589; loses her brother, 598; in Germany, ii. 1, 2; in Venice, 2, 3; her boxes robbed, 4; her religion, 7; in Rome, 21; in Vienna, 23, 24; went to England, 41; her work in London, 42; tries to get a K.C.B. for Captain Burton, 45-47; on a pilgrim-ship from Jeddah, 58; in Bombay, 61; at a Hindu wedding, 80; studies Portuguese documents at Goa, 108, no; determines to leave Goa, 114, 115; studies Italian, 118, 119; goes into retreat at Gorizia, 120, 243; sent for by the Count de Chambord, 121; her life at Opçina whilst R. Burton was in Midian, 127; joins Burton in Egypt, 128; waiting for her husband in Suez, 129; incivility of lady passengers P. and O. to, 130, 131; in England, 1878, 134, 135; kind friends in Dublin, 133; her visits in England, 1878, 134; speech upon Spiritualism, 152, 153; meets with an accident on her way to Trieste, 165, 166; her efforts for the prevention of cruelty to animals, in Trieste, 174, 225, 243, 427; her friends in Trieste, 174; goes to London, 1880, 177; her kindness to a monk at Opçina, 185; visits Ober-Ammergau, 186-188; her estimate of Lord Beaconsfield, 212; entertains the British Squadron at Opçina, 1881, 215; 1883, 251; her note to Truth on Captain Burton's wounds in Berberah, 215; goes to Veldes, 219; returns to Vienna, 221; visits Marienbad, 221, 238; in 1884, 275; summoned before the tribunal at Trieste, 225; in the fencing school, 226; returns to England, 226; in London, 1882, 236; her letter to Vanity Fair, 239; gives a masked ball, 247; under Count Mattei, 247-250; changes her house, 250-252; bitten by a scorpion, 253; her efforts to obtain some recognition of her husband's services, 256; her consideration for him, 258, 259; in camp, 266; her experiences as a Consul's wife, 277, 278; her renewed illness, 279; visits Bologna, 281; her speech at St. James's Hall on Protection for Animals, 293; her father's illness and death, 293, 316; voyage to Gibraltar, 310; in Tangier, 312, 314; has a fall at Naples, 313; in Genoa, 315; journey from Trieste to Rome, 315; pleasant journey through Austria to England, 321; visits friends in Scotland, 1888, 328; in London, 329; receives a diploma for her "Arabian Nights" from Ally Sloper, 344; has influenza, 376; picture of her home painted at Trieste, 377; has peritonitis, 396, 397; tries to induce Burton to give up his post, 401, 407, 408; at her husband's side when he died, 414; had been left for dead as a girl, 414; n.; her feelings about death, 416; meets the remains of Sir Richard at Liverpool, 429; receives a pension from the Queen, 430; at the funeral, 432, 433; goes to a convent, 434; a sad year, 434; her note about the "Scented Garden," 438-441; her husband's trust in her judgment, 440, 442, 443 n.; her devotion to Sir Richard, 449 Burton, Isabel, Lady, books written by, i. 478, 548; ii. 454; on Syria, 32, 44, 45, 56; her edition of the "Arabian Nights," 285, 286, 292, 330, 357; on Arabia, Egypt, etc., 60, 162, 317-321 ——, letters written by, to her mother on her engagement, i. 332-337; on Dr. Livingstone and the Nile, 461-466; on the Tiber, ii. 22; to Sir R. Murchison, asking for a K.C.B. for Captain Burton, 45-47, 324; about Spiritualism, 158, 159; to the Globe on gold in Midian, 166; to the Medical Times on Monfalcone, 189, 190; to Truth, July 7th, 1881, 215; to Vanity Fair, 239; to Ally Sloper on receiving a diploma for the "Arabian Nights," 345; to the Morning Post on the report of Sir Richard's illness, 398; to Colonel Grant, an answer to his accusations of Sir Richard, 422-426; to the Echo, about the "Scented Garden," 438 ——, poems by, on Paigrave's bust of Speke, 390-392; to R. Burton, 603; sonnet to Camoens, ii. 181; on Burton's "Arabian Nights," 291 Burton, Maria (Lady Stisted), i. 3 n. 15; her childhood, 20; her youth, 29. Burton, Colonel J. Netteville, i. 2; his appearance, 3; his character, 3; his loyalty to Queen Caroline, 17; in France, 19, 54; ill health of, 34, 35, 60; duels fought by, 41; tries chemistry, 45; early life of, 49, 50; break up of the family of, 65, 66; his death, 308 Burton, Mrs. J. N. (Richard's mother), i. 2, 3; mismanagement of her children, 22, 29 her ill health, 26, 34 Burton, Richard, his religion, i. xi.-xiii, 123, 347, 545; ii. 445-448; his modesty, i. vii.; ii. 267; his character, i.xi.-xiii., 20, 21, 328 n., 348, 396, 397, 460, 490, 491, 599, 604; ii. 136, 257-260, 263, 266; his family history, i. 2; his parents, 2, 3, 22, 29, 50; his appearance as a young man, 3 n.; as a child, 29; in 1850, 166, 167; as an Oriental, 170; after his African expeditions, 1859, i. 330, 331; ii. 425; in 1877, 6; his birth, i. 15, 252; his early recollections, 15; childhood in Tours, 17-25; sent to school, 20; return to England, 27; his school life at Richmond, 28-31; his grandparents, 23, 24; his return to France, 31, 32; in 1836, 54; in Blois, 33; his boyhood in Italy, 35-53; learns music, 38; his skill at chess, 45, 46; ii. 323; his education in Italy, i. 49; his fencing, 34, 49, 73, 74, 86, 164; education in Tau, 57; an escapade in Bau, 58; studies in Pisa, 60, 61; early love affairs, 62; at Schinznach, 66, 67; his dislike to England, 67; his education tried and found wanting, 68; at Oxford, 69; at Trinity College, 70; learns Arabic, 77; takes rooms in Maddox Street, 79; his system of learning languages, 81; his second term at Oxford, 82; his views of Oxford classics, 83; in Germany, 85-88; his dislike to Oxford, 88, 89; is rusticated and leaves, 90, 91, 153; enters the Indian army, 92, 94, 153; learns Hindustani, 93, 154; starts for India, 16, 97; date of his commission, 97 n.; his first voyage to India, 98-100; in Bombay, 100-105, 130-133, 143; joins his regiment, 106, 134; at Gujarat, 106, 107; his brother officers, 106, 134; at Baroda, 106-120; epigram by, 116; his work with the regiment, 107, 108; learns Indian sword-practice and riding, 119, 134, 135; visits Bombay, 120; passes the exam, in Hindustani, 121, 137, 154; continues his study of native languages, 122, 123; is appointed Interpreter to the regiment, 123, 138 n., 154; nicknamed the 'White Nigger,' 123, 144; passes the exam, in Guzerattee, 123, 138; joins the Catholic Church, 123, 347; meets Captain Scott, 125; at Karáchi, 126, 127, 140, 154; at Gharra, 128, 142, 155; passes in Maharátta, 129-143; his reminiscences written for Mr. Hitchman, 130-151; appointed to the Sind survey, 143, 145, 150, 155; tries falconry, 143; on the Staff of Sir C. Napier, 144, 145, 155, 156, 161; his disguises as an Oriental in India, 144, 147, 148, 155-158, 160, 170; in Arabia, 169-171, 173, 182; as a Persian, 183; 199, 200; ii. 13, 623; tricks played by, i. 146; ii. 65; on the Fulailee river, i. 147, 157; attacked by ophthalmia, 148, 162; goes to the Neilgherries, 148; visits Goa, 148; at Ootacamund, 148, 149; studies Telugu and Arabic, 149; passes the exam. in Persian, 149; returns to Sind, 150; studies Eastern religions, 150; his autobiography, 150-158; his proficiency in Indian languages, 154, 155, 159, 162; his experiments with monkeys, 160; his experiment with a Sányasi, 160, 161; applies for service in the Sihk War, 162; leaves India, 163; returns to England, 164; goes to Boulogne, 165; his reward lor the treatise on Bayonet Exercise, 166; his flirtations, 167, 168, 393; his visit to Mecca, 170; ii. 301; leaves Alexandria as a Pathan, i. 171; his account of the journey to Mecca and residence there, 171-179; crosses the desert, 172; leaves Medinah, 174; travels with a Caravan, 175; in Mecca, 175-178; ii. 301; at Arafat, i. 177; goes to Jeddah, 178; leaves El Hajaz, 179; in Damascus, 179, 180; at Kurrachee, 182; his friends in India, 183; his knowledge of languages, 183; ii. 9, 13, 47, 302; he determines to visit Harar, 198; his views upon Berberah, 199; his account of the journey to, Harar disguised as an Arab, 200-205; with the Somals, 203; ii. 13; in Harar, 207-213; leaves Harar, 213; writes a grammar of the Harari language, 214; crosses the desert, 215; reaches Berberah, 217; leaves Berberah for Aden, 218; returns to Berberah, 219; attacked in Berberah, 219, 220; ii. 13, 215; his ill health after the skirmish at Berberah, i. 226; volunteers for the Crimea, 224, 226; starts for the Crimea, 227; at Balaclava, 229; called at the Embassy at Therapia, 231; goes to the Dardanelles, 235, 244; on Beatson's Staff, 240, 241; ii. 9, 12; his plan for the relief of Kars, i. 241; his wish to assist Circassia, 244; implicated in General Beatson's disgrace, 245, 246; returns to England, 246; at General Beatson's trial, 247; his ill luck with his chiefs, 247 n.; proposes to Miss I. Arundell, 250; his friendship with Cardinal Wiseman, 250; his affinity with; the gypsy race, 251-253; at Trieste, 252; his farewell to his betrothed before starting for Africa, 255; his first expedition with Speke to Central Africa (from his notes), i. 257-278; ii. 421, 423, 560; at Zanzibar, 258; at Pemba, 259; at Wazin, 261; at Tanga, 261, 262; at Pangany; 262, 263; starts for Usumbara, 264; at Chogway, 264, 274-277; leaves Mount Tongway, 267; reaches Kohoday, 268; leaves Fuga, 272; fever at Chogway, 274-276, 278; his passports, 279; starts for Tanganyika, 279; his second journey in Africa, 281-326; fever at Dut'humi, 281, 282; at Zungomero, 282; loses his instruments, 284; in the Usagára Mountains, 286; marches through the Mdáburu jungle, 288; reaches Kazeh, 290; his journey from Unyanyembe to Ujiji, 291-299; his journey to Eastern Wilyankuru, 293; separates from Speke, 293: meets Speke at Msene, 294; ill at Kajjanjeri, 295; reaches Lake Tanganyika, 298; at Ujiji, 299-302; succeeds in getting some boats, 302; his voyage on Laka Tanganyika, 302, 303; the Pioneer of African travel, 304; ii. 39; receives news from England, i. 305; leaves Lake Tanganyika, 306; his return journey to Unyamyembe, 306-308; his illness in Kazeh, 308; his intended route to the sea-coast, 309; fonvards reports to R. G. S., London, 311; his differences with Speke, 312; his explanation of Speke's mistakes, 314; his opinion of Speke, 315, 316; is hampered for funds, 320; his return to the sea-coast, 321, 326; nurses Speke at Hanga, 322; commences the return march, 323; reaches Ugogi Dhun, 324; receives an official "wigging," 324, 325; his welcome at Konduchi, 326; Speke leaves him, 327; he leaves Zanzibar, 327; his ill health after his return from Africa, 330, 331; his betrothed gives an epitome of his life and character, 333-335; visits the Salt Lake City, 337-339; his marriage with Miss Isabel Arundell, 340, 342; appointed Consul of Fernando Po (West Africa), 544, 345; ungratefully treated by the East India Company, 345, 346; ii. 327, 425; his services before he was forty, i. 346; at Fryston, 347, 376; starts for Fernando Po, 348, 349; extent of his first jurisdiction, 350, 385; his treatment of impertinent negroes at his Consulate, 353; his management of captains who did not fulfil their contracts, 355; finds Arabs at Lagos, 359, 360; his notes on Benin, 360; on gold in Africa, 361-374; on native tribes, 363; his return on first leave, 1863, 376; his return to Ibernando Po, sent to Dahomè, 381; ii. 6, 7; his account of Dahomè, i. 382, 384; explores the West Coast of Africa, 385; ii. 12, 13; visits Mpangwe, i. 386; sends papers to Fraser's Magazine and lectures in London, 1863, 386; returns to England on leave, 1864, 388, 389; he prepares to meet Speke at Bath, 389; his distress at Speke's death, 389; ii. 426; writes "Stone Talk," i. 393, 395; completes the sketch for Palgrave's bust of Speke, 390; visits Ireland, 395-398; his family and Louis XIV., 397; transferred to Santos, São Paulo, 398; a farewell dinner given to, 398; his speech at the farewell dinner in his honour, 402-404; his theories about the Nile, 404; at Lisbon, 416; he leaves for Brazil, 417; his life in Brazil, 420-424, 436; his journeys in Brazil, 424, 425; obtains a concession for lead-mines in Brazil, 425; finds rubies, 425; his riding tour in Brazil, 441, 442; his account of a mine in Brazil, 444, 445; has a severe illness, 450; a great mesmerist, 450, 451; resigns his Consulate, 453; visits the Argentine Republic, 453; meets the Tichborne Claimant, 453; he invents a carbine pistol, 455, 456; obtains the Consulate of Damascus, 455; goes to Vichy, 458; his visit to Yellalah, 462; his reception in Damascus, 469; his. residence in Damascus, 479-485; his method of secret communication with his wife, 471; his love for children, 490, 491; his account of Syria, 492; his account of an excursion to the Libanus, 493-498; his idea of sport, 499; his literary necessities, 499; his method of teaching languages, 499; his determination to protect Damascus in a riot, 503; visits the Druzes, 507, 508; bitten by a scorpion, 511; his account of a trip to Tulul el Safá, 513; his observations at Tulul el Safá, 514; receives a warning front his wife, 516, 517; his letter to the Druzes, with forged copy of the same, 519; visits the Anti-Libanus, 522; first shadow on the life at Damascus, 528, 529; his letter about the Druzes, 529; his explanation of the money-lending system in Damascus, 530, 532; he opposes the usurers, 531-536, 579, 580; his note on the Jews, 533; attacked by Sir F., Goldsmid for his wife's religion, 534; his letter to the Foreign Office, 537; his note about Nazareth, 543; his reverence for devotion in Jerusalem, 544; on the Sházlis, 547, 548; receives a testimonial from the mission in Damascus, 565; recalled from his Consulate, 568, 569; universally regretted, 569; above bribery, 571, 572; his popularity with the Moslems, 572; his services in Damascus, 572; ii. 327; described by an English Mission, i. 577-580; his note on tyranny in Syria, 584, 585; reasons alleged for his recall, 589, 590; at Garswood, 591; goes to Iceland, 591, 598; his account of the Royal Geographical meeting, 594; at a Mansion House dinner, 595; sends plants to the British Museum, 595; wins the action against the Greek Bishop, 596; painted by Sir F. Leighton, 596; ii. 49; his opponents meet with ill luck, i. 596; his return from Iceland, 598; has an operation, 598; goes to Brighton, 599; appointed Consul at Trieste, 597; ii. 328; his plans for the Sházlis, 597; his Eastern career, 606; starts for Trieste, ii. 1; in Venice, 3; at Trieste, 1877, quoted from the World, 4; second article on—from Richards, 13; his note on precautions in fighting the Ashantees, 20; goes to Loretto, 20; goes to Rome, 20, 21; his letter on the overflow of the Tiber, 21, 22; at the Viennese Exhibition, 24; escapes drowning at Karso, 26; his discoveries in Karso, 27; his description of the castellieri in Istria, 28; his expedition up the Schneeberg Mountain, followed by serious illness, 34, 35; his resemblance to Gordon, 42, 43; in London, 1875, 44; his "Divans," 44; tries to patent his "Tonic Bitters," 44; his note on his treatment by the Government, 48, 256; at the Zoo, 48; revisits Oxford, 48; lectures in London, 49; his second visit to Iceland, 50; his friends in England, 50, 51; revisits Tours, 51; leaves England for Boulogne, 51; embarks for a visit to India, 53; dictates his biography, 53; in Bombay, 61-63; his note on the changes at Kotri, 65; his note on the short service system, 66; on the Indian army, 69-75, 76; revisits Mirza Ali Akbar, 79; can never pass a countryman's grave, 80; at Mátháran, 81, 82; at the Karla Caves, 83; at Hyderabad, 85, 86; his ready wit, 104, 333; at Goa, 105-114; his love of native music, 107; leaves India, 115; at Suez, 116; revisits Egypt, 116; returns to Trieste, 117; in Germany, 121, 122; goes to Egypt in search of gold, 122, 125; his ill luck, 123; his travels, 125; his popularity in Egypt, 1878, 131, 132; returns to London, 1878, 133; lectures in Dublin, 133; out of health, 135; his speech at a Spiritualist meeting, 138-151, 155; his views on evolution, 142; his letter on Spiritualism to the Times, 157; his life and friends in London, 1879, 160-163; his translation of a German ghost story, 170-173; his scheme for the Indo-Mediterranean Railway, 176; sent for by the King of the Belgians, 176; returns to Egypt, 1880, 176; his disappointment, 177; attacked and robbed in Alexandria, 177, 178; his note on gold in Midian, 178, 179; his love of silver, 190; preference for cramoisie, 191; his note on slavery in Egypt, 193-210; asked to be appointed Commissioner of Slavery in Egypt, 195, 256, 324; studies bees, 214; at Veldes without leave, 220; at Venice, rudeness of the Geographical Congress, 222, 223; goes to the coast of Guinea, 224; returns to England, 226; lectures before the Anthropological Society, 226; his interest in mining, 227; his note on West Africa, 228; appreciated by the London Press, 229; on mining on the Gold Coast, 230, 231; his letters on the Gold Coast, 232-235; lectures before the Geological Society, 236; an "amateur Consul," 239; begins his "Book of the Sword," 240; interferes with the household, 240, 241; starts in search of Palmer, 242; his difficulty in finding publishers, 243, 445; ill with gout, 244; 1886, 329; takes a dislike to his house, 245, 246; takes a sea-trip, 246; went to Krapinn. Teplitz, 250; dialogue with his wife, 255; neglected by the Government, 256, 289; his reserve, 257; receives a curious letter in Syria, 260; his mode of study, 260; his aversion to fallen women, 261; quotation from his journal, "on men," 261, 262; on critics, 262; his musical tastes, 263; his room, 263; his clothes, 263, 264; his taste in food, 264, 265; his daily life, 265, 266; his views on cremation, 267; his trust in his wife, 267; his handwriting, 268; painted by Madame Gutmansthal, 168, 268; De Leon's opinion of him, 268, 269; description from Life of —— in his study at Trieste, 269; his prescience of things, 270; taken ill at Opçina, 271-274; his Trieste doctor, 273; began his translation of the "Arabian Nights," 274; in Vienna, 1884, 275; at Roitsch-Sauerbrunn, 276, 277; his unlucky day, 279; disbelieves in Gordon's death, 280, 281; his voyage to England on the Tarifa, 1885, 281-283; his fancy for pilgrimages, 283; his note to the reprint of the "Arabian Nights," 292, 293; in London, 1885, 293; pays visits in England, 294; writes a programme for Egypt for Lord Salisbury, 294-296; applies for the Consulate of Marocco, 297; in Tangier, 303, 311; his views on a Diet for Ireland, 304-307; made a K.C.M.G., 311; his note on the defences of Gibraltar, 312; at Naples, 313; at Schloss Sternstein, 316; his polities, 317; in the Tyrol, 321, 322; his appeal for a full pension, 324-326; his friends, 1886, 329, 330; on the Riviera, 1887, 332, 333; his note on Cannes, 333; his note on the earthquakes in the Riviera, 335, 336, 339; seriously ill, 337, 338; baptized, 337; his account of his illness and journey to Trieste, 338-341; his visitors at Trieste, 341; his speech at the Jubilee festival in Trieste, 342, 343; his pleasures at Trieste, 344; his note to Ally Sloper on receiving a diploma for the "Arabian Nights," 345; his illness, 1887, 346; his smoking-room, 346; his note on Sauerbrunn, 347-349; his day after he was invalided, 352, 354; at Abbazia, 354, 355, 358; his peculiarity of hiding things, 357; his notes on a Swiss summer, 358-361; in London, 1888, 364; at Newmarket, 365; at Boulogne, 1888, 365; lectures at Geneva, 365; writes to the Times upon Suákin, 366; his notes from Vevey, 368; his notes on Lausanne, 370, 375; at Montreux, 373; in the Austrian mountains, 377-379; painted by Mr. Letchford, 377, 397, 415; worried by the Foreign Office, 380, 382; a second operation, 381; leaves for Brindisi, 382; in Malta, 382-386; his friends there, 383; inspects the armoury, 384; at Tunis, 386, 387; travels from Tunis to Algiers, 389, 391; his friends in Algiers, 391, 392; hears stories about himself, 394, 395; leaves Algiers, 394; his reported illness, 397; in Switzerland, 400; loses his spirits, 401-403; returns to Trieste, 405; his last work, 405, 410; watches the swallows, 405, 406; his love for kittens, 408; wrong impressions held about, 409; the day before his death, 409-411; his interest in General Booth's work, 409; his death, 17, 413; receives Extreme Unction, 413; his funeral, 403, 417, 432, 433; his dislike to darkness, 418, 419; his tomb, 419, 431; the letters unanswered at his death, 421; his remains sent to England, 427; his last instructions to his wife, 439; his work on the "Scented Garden," 441; his article on Bhujang and the cock-fight, 477-479; his description of a visit to a Beloch chief, 480-495; his views upon politics, 496-559; Rigby's false statements about, 567-570: his report after the search for Palmer, 591-616 Burton, Richard, books written and published by, ii. 453, 454; unpublished, 454, 455; reviewed by the Bat, 300 ——, books by, on India, i. 150, 158, 159, 165, 399, 425; ii. 110 n., 118, 151; on the Sword, i. 134 n..; ii. 42, 240; on Harar, i. 209, 224; on Africa, i. 257, 337, 350, 376, 407; ii. 41, 42; City of the Saints, i. 339; written in Brazil, 425, 499; Argentine Republic, i. 453: Iceland, 591; written in Trieste, ii. 41, 118; on Midian, ii. 122, 123; translation of Camoens, 181, 182; on the Castellieri in Austria, 214 n.. ——, ghost story, his translation of the, ii. 170-173 ——, epigrams by, i. 116, 122, 389 ——, essays by, ii. 316 ——, epitome of his services, by Lady Burton, i. 333, 334, 346; ii. 45, 47; by Lord Derby, i. 399, 400; in the World, 1877, ii. 6-9; by A. Richards, 11-14; in the Daily News, 125 Burton, Richard, letters by, read to the Royal Geographical Society, i. 338; ii. 560; from Burton to the Druzes, and forged copy of the same, i. 519; on the Druzes, 529; his reply to the Missions of Damascus, 566, 567; on the overflow of the Tiber, ii. 21, 22; to Gordon, 43; on mining on the Gold Coast, ii. 230-235; to the Glasgow Times on the "Arabian Nights," 292; asking for the Consulate of Marocco, 297; to Ally Sloper on receiving a diploma, 345; to the Times upon Suákin, 366; his reply to the invitation to the Stanley Exhibition, 392; to the Times of India, 532; his letter respecting the Jeddah massacre, 560-564, 566; his replies to Captain Rigby's false statements, 570-574; his answers to Melvill's letters, 574, 576, 577 ——, poems by: The Kasidah, i. 184-195; on Death, 196, 332; a Heavenly Guide, 196; on Fame, 255, 304; to Isabel, 329; "Stone Talk," 393; on Love, 468; Legend of the Lakkí Hills, ii. 63-65; Bari and Isa, 67; on Lufifi, 336; on Hacke's New Idea, 341; on Swallows, 408; to a Nightingale, 410 Burton, Admiral J. Ryder, i. 2, 3 Burton, Captain St. George, ii. 432, 433 Burzeh, i. 483 Buttercup in the desert, i. 203 Byron, ii. 183; Burton's resemblance to, 269 Byzantium, a future kingdom of, ii. 497, 551 C Caboclas in Brazil, i. 435 Cachaça in Brazil, i. 427 Cæsar, Julius, i. 329 Caillée, i. 360 Cairo, i. 171; ii. 128, 129; Burton's reception at, 132; journey from Alexandria to, 598; the City of, 598; Suez railway to, 600 Calicut, i. 149 California, gold in, i. 361, 362; goldwashing in, 367 Calvert, Mr., i. 238 Camapuas, a fright at, i. 441 Cambon, Dr., his eulogy upon Captain Burton, ii. 418 Cambridge, Duke or, ii. 42 Camel riding, i. 479; drivers in Ossian, ii. 468 Camoens, Burton's translation of, ii. 181, 182; Press notices of, 184, 185; sonnet to, by I. Burton, 181; lines on Turkey by, 558 Cameron, Captain, ii. 226; on the Gold Coast, 230, 232, 235; at Axim, 233; in the Euphrates Valley, 557 Campbell, "Bob," ii. 49; anecdotes of, 50 Campbell, Consul, i. 371 Campbell, Dr. J., i. 2, 12 Campbell, Captain Melfort, ii. 298, 397 Canal du Midi, Grand, travelling on the, i. 60 Candia, ii. 549, 557 Cannes, ii. 332, 333 Cantonment, a day in, 1842, i. 136 Capricorn, picnics at the Tropic of, i. 431 Capua, i. 44 Campato, the, i. 427, 428 Caravan, travelling with a, i. 175, 290; head-quarters in Africa of, 291, 293; at Kawele, 305 Carbine pistol, Burton's, and projectile, i. 455-457; illustration of, 455; Press notices of, 457 Cardigan, Lord, i. 229, 230 Carlisle, Lord, i. 396 Carlyle, i. 347; his death, ii. 211 Caroline, Queen of the Poissardes, Boulogne, ii. 51 Carpenter, Miss Mary, ii. 80 Carracioli, i. 49 Carter, Dr. H. J., i. 123; his book on diamonds, ii. 527, 528, 530 Carthage, ii. 388, 389 Castasegna, ii. 404 Castro, João da, ii. 110 Cat, curious effect upon people of a, ii. 143 Catholics, emancipation or the, ii. 307; present position in England of, 308; their loyalty, 309 Catullus, Burton's translation of, ii. 443 n. Cautley, Mr. P., ii. 241, 344 Cavour, i. 32; a great statesman, ii. 504 Ceschi, Governor, ii. 31 Cette, i. 54 Ceylon, on board the, ii. 123 Chaillu, Du, i. 386, 462 Chain of the Universe, ii. 470 Chambord, Count de, ii. 121; death of, 253 Chandler, Mr. H., the Bodleian librarian, ii. 323 Chandler, Professor, death of, ii. 3771 Chapman's "Iliad," ii. 185 Charlotte, Empress, ii. 19 Charnock, Dr., ii. 29, 151 Charrington, murder of, ii. 242, 608; a promising officer, 611; relics of, 613 Chhaga, image of a woman at, i. 260 Chiasso, ii. 358, 359 Chiavenna, ii. 404 Chico, i. 422, 429; his cruelty to a cat, 430 Chillon, ii. 373, 374 China, war with, i. 131; Burton advocates an alliance with, ii. 317; Lord Salisbury forms an alliance with, 318, 319; her influence upon the civilized world, 320; competitive exams, introduced from, 475, 537; contains the future race of Asia, 508; cheap labour in, 521; our bulwark against Russia, 543, 606 Chogway, i. 263, 264, 273-276 Cholera in Naples, i. 51; in Venice and Trieste, ii. 32; how it spreads into Europe, 513-515; precautions to be taken against the, 515 "Christian Revival in Syria," by R. Burton, i. 548-565 Christians, in Syria, i. 501; converts from El Islam, 551, 552; persecutions, of the, 553-557, 559-562, 584; their constancy, 556; increase in the number of, 558; in Damascus, 575 Christmas Day, 1858, i. 325; 1888, ii. 368 Churchill, Colonel, "Mount Lebanon," by, ii. 142; on Druze mediums, 148; on Spiritualism, 150 Cialdini, General, i. 241 Cibo, Cardinal, i. 357 Cicci, the, ii. 15 Cigars in India, 1842, i. 112 Cintra, i. 417 Circassia, i. 244 Citta Vecchia, ii. 384, 509 City of brass, i. 261 Clanricarde, Lord, i. 233 Clarendon, Lord, letter to Burton from, i. 469; his death, 500; refused to make Burton a K.C.B., ii. 45 Clarke, Mr. Charles, ii. 601, 602 Clarke, Dr., on export of gold, i. 370 Cleland, Captain, i. 98, 103, 131 Clermont, petrifactions at, i. 460, 460 n. Clough, Mr., i. 17, 20 Cobden, Richard, i. 114; on India 115; ii. 540 Colchians, ii. 29 Cole, Mr., Consul in Jeddah, ii. 516 Coleridge, Lord, i. 80 College companions, Burton's, i. 72, 73 Collins, Wilkie, death of, ii. 381 Cologne, i. 84; ii. 1 Como, Lake, ii. 404, 405 Conflagration, a, i. 307 Confucius, i. 188 n.; ii. 457, 466; denied a personal Deity, 469 Congo, or Zaire River, i. 296 n.; Burton explores the rapids of, 387; Livingstone discovers the, 464 n., 465 Conolly, Mr., i. 149; murder of, ii. 516 Constable, Sir C., i. 339 Constantin, a fencing-master, ii. 365 Constantine, ii. 390 Constantinople, ii. 550 Controfiani, Count, i. 43, 44 Consul, trials of a, in Damascus, i. 602, 603; experiences of his wife, ii. 277 Conway, Captain, ii. 65 Conyngham-Jones, i. 38 Cookson, Sir C., farewell to Burton, ii. 179 Cooley, Mr., i. 363, 365; on Abutua, 367 n. Coquimbo of Chili, i. 369 n. Cora, Signor, ii. 52 Corfu, ii. 128; restoration of, 549, 557, 592 Corsellis, Colonel, i. 147 Cotton mills in India, ii. 79, 519 Courcy, John de, i. 40 Court and Society Review on Burton's pension, ii. 326 Cowie, Rev. Morgan, i. 46 Cox, Serjeant, on Pyschology, ii. 141; on Spiritualism, 155 Crawford, Mrs., ii. 399 Cremation, Burton's views on, ii. 267 Creoles, i. 358 Crete, ii. 593 Crimea, Burton in the, i. 225-248; ii. 12; cost of the war in the, i. 235; end of the war, 246; ii. 539; a Catholic officer in the, 309 Critics and reviewers, ii. 262 Crocodiles, i. 307 Crookes, Mr., i. 425; his amalgamation, 442; 463; on electricity, ii. 149; at a Spiritualist meeting, 155, 156 Crowley, Rev. Dr., i. 64 Crucifix from Dahomè, i. 383, 384 Cyclops, H.M.S., at Jeddah, ii. 516, 565 Cyprus, ii. 504, 549, 557 Cyrus Cries antifone, i. 110 D Da'as Agita, chief of Jerúd, i. 472, 473 Dabba, battle of, i. 116, 137, 141, 144 Dahomè, Burton in, i. 381; ii. 7, 12, 14; cruelty in, i. 382; the King's answer to Burton's message, 383, 385; Burton dances with the King of, 438 Dalling, Lord, a bill in Trieste, ii. 512 Dalmatia, Austrian possession of, ii. 502; harbours of, 506; kingdom of, 509; territory of, 510; Hungary opposes the development of, 511; metals in, 546; Emperor of Austria's visit to, 546, 555 Damascus, Burton at, i. 179, 180, 468, 578; ii. 327; the capital of Syria, i. 574, 584; ii. 56; Burton made Vice-Consul in, i. 455; houses in, 470; a return to, 479; the house near, 480, 498; the village near, 480, 481, 498; the environs of, 483, 506; friends on the house roof at, 485, 490; Christians in danger in, 502, 503; people protected by the British Consulate, 530; their injustice and greed, 531, 532; intended riot in, 532, 572; panic allayed by Burton in, 538; Bishops of, send a letter to Burton regretting his recall, 539; an ideal Consul for, 575; native food in, ii. 264 Damien, Father, death of, ii. 376 Danah, ruins of a tomb at, i. 527 Dance in a Caravan, i. 292 Dancing at Blois, i. 34 Dangar tribes at Mátherán, ii. 104 Dante, ii. 463; on the Quarnero Gulf, 499, 503 Darbiyah Kola, i. 204 Dardanelles during the Crimean War, i. 235, 237, 238, 244 Dar el Bey, ii. 388 Davis, Dr., on magic, ii. 148 Davos Platz, ii. 402; drive to Maloja from, 402 Death, Arabic legend or, i. 188 n.; ii. 468 December 4th, 1875, ii. 51 Dee, Dr., ii. 146 Deir el Khammar, i. 508 Delafosse, Bobby, i. 30, 31 Delafosse, Rev. Ch., i. 27, 28 Derby, Lord, and Burton's manuscript, i. 280; proposes Captain Burton's health at the farewell dinner of the Anthropological Society, 399-402; his kindness to Burton, 425 Desanges, Louis, i. 64 Desert, life in the, i. 477, 478; of the Exodus, corrections in the, ii. 610 Dhioliba, river, i. 360 Dhumayr, village of, i. 484 Diaforus, Dr. i. 56 Diamonds, in Golconda, ii. 523; historic, 524; English and Indian weights, 524 n.; diggings in India, 525, 527, 528; diggings in the Krishna Valley, 529, 530, 533; mines of Pannah, 528, 529; diggings abandoned in India, 530, 532 ——, Koh-i-noor, history of the, ii. 93-97, 524 Diamonds, Nazim, history of the, ii. 523, 524; compared with historic gems, 524 ——, Pitt, the, ii. 524-526 Dieppe, i. 23, 26 Diderot, ii. 471, 474 Dinkira, i. 368, 371 Dobbin, i. 37, 39 Dog, the Ku dish, i. 523 Dolomites, a visit to the, ii. 188 Donkey, a, in Suez, ii. 129 Dormer, Countess, tries to make peace between Speke and Burton, i. 331; ii. 425 Dorn, Dr., ii. 237 Dosabhai Sohrabji, i. 101, 131, 137, 154 Dost Mohammed Khan, ii. 522 Dove, everywhere sacred, i. 177 Doyle, Richard, died, ii. 272 Dragomans, good, i. 477 n. Drake, Charles Tyrwhitt, i. 478, 490, 493, 497, 500, 522; explores Anti-Lebanon, 520; a trip to Lebanon described by, 524, 525; deciphers hieroglyphics at Hamáh, 526; returns with Burton, 569; his letters on Burton's recall, 581-584; his kindness to Mrs. Burton, 585, 588, 589; visits the Burtons in Trieste, ii. 26, 30; his death, 31, 35, 609 Drawing, value of, i. 60, 61 Dresser, Mr. C., ii. 148 Drummond-Hay, Sir J. and Lady, ii. 297, 303, 312 Druzes, i. 493, 496; race and country of the, 506-508; women, 506; Shayhks, 508; villages on the Eastern side of Hermon, 511; peasantry, 513; settlement, 514; invite Burton to visit them, 518, 519; his reply, 519; apply for an English school, 529; treachery of the, 529 Druze Shayhk's longing to kill the usurers, i. 541 Dublin, i. 396; Burton lectures in, ii. 133; his friends there, 133 Dudley, Lady, ii. 25 Duino, ii. 31; baths at, 212, 213; life at, 214, 398 Dumá Ruzaymah, i. 515 Du Pré, M., i. 31-34, 45, 50, 52, 66, 69 Duss Malablay, i. 217 Dut'humi, i. 281; slave-trade at, 282; game in, 288; the return journey from, 326 Dwárká s.s., i. 149, 150; on board the, 179, 179 n. Dyett, Lieutenant, i. 148 Dyke, Messrs., erect mausoleum to Sir Richard, ii. 429, 432 E Earthquake, in Africa, i. 308; in Trieste, 1880, ii. 189; 1890, 277, 406; at Opçina, 1882, 244; on the Riviera, 1887, 335, 337, 339 Eastwick, Edward, i. 231 Ecclesiastes, ii. 473 Education abroad a mistake for boys, i. 32 "Ego," Burton's tablet of, ii. 163, 164; man's, 473 Egypt, i. 192 n.; the meeting-place of nations, ii. 75; Burton's second visit to, 116; entertainment given by the Khedive of, 130; railways in, 548; progress in, 550, 557; independence of, 557, 558, 615; slavery in, 558, 615; English occupation of, 591, 613, 614; the army in, 615; the police in, 615 Egyptian Empire, the first, ii. 459; religious ideas in the old, on the soul, 466; on freewill, 468; on repentance, 475 Egyptian Expeditions up the Nile, i. 313, 314, 319, 320; in search of gold, i. 362 n.; under Burton, ii. 122, 123 Einsiedeln, ii. 400 Eisach, ii. 2 El Barali, curious tombs at, i. 527 Eldridge, Mr., Consul at Damascus, i. 504, 507, 517, 518; his discourtesy to the Burtons, 570; his unkindness, 585, 590; thanks Mrs. Burton for her conduct about the Shaykh's son, 601 Elephant, i. 190 n., 265; riding an, ii. 89, 91; Indian name for "Hathi,"; 472 Elgin, Lord, i. 327 El Hamra, i. 173 El Ihram, ceremony of, i. 175 Elijah, i. 483, ii. 471 Ellenborough, Lord, i. 99, 117, 131 Ellenborough, Lady (Hon. Jane Digby el Mezrab), i. 470; the extortions of her Bedawi tribe, 471; her history, 485, 487-490; Mrs. Burton's defence of, 487; her grave, 492; her letter respecting Burton's recall, 338, 539; her friendship for Mrs. Burton, 588 Elliot, Sir G. II., ii. 594 Elliot, Mrs., i. 419 Elmina, gold first brought from, i. 362, 363 Elphinstone, General, i. 94 Elphinstone, Lord, i. 200 Elphinstone, H.M.S., ii. 563, 564 Embalming, modern, ii. 415 Emerat, M., murdered at Jeddah, ii. 517 England, ill luck attached to the Koh-i-noor in, ii. 96; prophecy of internal troubles in 1876, 511; her policy of compromise, 556 Englishmen at sea, ii. 115 Epicurus, ii. 140 Eroteos, Patriarch of Antioch, letter to Burton on his recall from Damascus, i. 539, 540 Esterhazy, Prince, ii. 505 Eternal Gardener, the, ii. 466 n. Ethersey, Captain, i. 125 Eugène of Savoy, Prince, ii. 507; his advice to Austria, 546, 554 Eunostus light, the, ii. 593 Eunuchs, trade in, ii. 208 Euphrates Valley Railway, ii. 498, 549 Euxine Sea, the, i. 227, 228 Evans, Mr. A., in trouble in Herzegovina, ii. 225, 544 Eveillard, Mdlle, in the massacre at Jeddah, ii. 516, 517 Executions as a treat for children, i. 22 Exhibitions, in Vienna, ii. 23, 24; at Trieste, 23-26; in England, 1851, 540 F Faber, Mr. and Mrs., ii. 224, 316, 355 Fadajeff, ii. 501 Faithful, Miss E., ii. 43 Falconry in the valley of the Indus, i. 143; ii. 453 Fardella, Lieut.-Colonel, i. 236 Fargus, F. (Hugh Conway), died, ii. 281 Fatima, ii. 77 "Fauntleroy, Little Lord," ii. 361 Favre, Mme. Jules, Spiritualism at the house of, ii. 120 Favre, Mme. Léon, ii. 20; death of, ii. 128 Fazán, a good setter, ii. 278 Felkin, Rev. Robert, on Gordon's death, ii. 280 Fellah, the, i. 526; ii. 602; as a soldier, 603, 604 Fenian emigrants, i. 226 n. Fernando Po., West Africa, Burton's first Consulate, i. 344, 350-356, 381 Ferraris-Oechieppo, Count and Countess, ii. 19 Fetishes, negro, i. 369 Filder, General, i. 227 Findlay, Mr., letter on the Nile from, ii. 38, 40 Fisterre, Mme., i. 19, 22 Fitzgerald, Mr. Desmond, his speech on opening Spiritualists' meeting in London, ii. 137, 138; his reply to Mrs. Burton, 153; replies to Mrs. Hallock, 154; his discussion with Captain Burton, 155, 157 "Fitzgerald, Fighting," i. 146 Fitzgerald, Mr. Gerald, made a K.C.M.G., ii. 281 Fitzgerald, Mr. Lewis, lines from his translation of Hafiz, ii. 467 Fitzgerald, Lady, i. 347; ii. 237 Fiume, ii. 27, 34; a voyage to, 221; 355; port of, 505, 509 Flanatic Bay, ii. 509 Flora, beyond the desert, i. 205; in the Fuga Mountains, 269; at the foot of the Usagára Mountains, 283; near the Makata, 285; in Brazil, 426; in India, ii. 82 Florence, residence in, i. 40, 41 Floyer, Mr., letter on the "Arabian Nights," ii. 625 Foakes, Dr., ii. 293, 331 Foiba in the Karso, ii. 180 Food in Sind, ii. 488 Forbes, Duncan, i. 93, 94, 154 Forbes Winslow, Dr., ii. 158 Förner, Fray Emanuel, i. 552, 555 Foxes, shooting, ii. 40 France, the army in 1876, ii. 498; in Africa, 549 Franco Pasha, i. 508 Frank, Dr. and Lady A., ii. 334, 337, 338 Frankfort, ii. 1 Franklin, Major, on diamonds, ii. 528, 530 Fraser, Lieutenant, ii. 561 Frauenfeld, Rifle Association in, ii. 400 Frederick, the Empress, ii. 25, 168 Freeman, Mr., on the Magyar, ii. 546, French, Republic proclaimed, 1848, i. 151; in India, 111; politics, 1875, ii. 497, 498; vengeance for the massacre at Jeddah, 518 "French in India," a good book, ii. 92 Fresnet, Mr. Fulgence, ii. 516 Fröhnleiten, ii. 167, 168 Frost, Mr., i. 279, 280; letters to Burton from, 325 Froude, Mr., i. 347, 455 Frushard, Captain, ii. 562 Fuad Pasha, i. 237; ii. 518 Fuga, i. 263, 269, 270; monsoon at, 271 Fulayli, river, i. 143; ii. 65 G Gaboon, river, i. 356, 372 Gabrieli, Miss V., i. 64 Gaisford, Dean, i. 75 Galland, Professor, his edition of the "Arabian Nights," ii. 283, 288 Gallas, the, i. 205, 260; spearmen, 207 Galway, Captain, i. 47 Gambetta, Mr., ii. 604 Gambier, Captain, mesmerized by Burton, i. 450 n. Game, in Usagára Mountains, i. 288; near Damascus, 499 Game-cocks of Hyderabad, i. 136; ii. 477 Garapooree Island, ii. 61 Garcia, Maria (Morbihan), i. 41 Gautier, Théophile, on mixed blood, i. 16 Gayangos, Don Pascual de, i. 77 Gehenna, or Hell, i. 193 n.; lines on, ii. 474 Geneva, ii. 361; Burton lectures at, 365; accidents in the hotel, 365, 392 Genoa, 1886, ii. 315 Geographical Society, Royal, i. 224, 227; supplies Burton and Speke with funds for exploring Africa, 257; ii. 420; extract from Proceedings of the, after Burton's return, i. 312 ; Burton's letter to the, ii. 560; sends Speke on a second expedition to Africa, i. 258, 328; meetings of the, 338, 406, 593, 594. Geological formation of Africa, i. 296 n. Gerad, Adan, i. 206, 213, 214 Gerad Mohammad of Harar, i. 209, 211 Gerard, Lord, i. 376; his kindness to Captain and Mrs. Burton, 587, 591; ii. 309, 331, 340 Geronino, ii. 394 Gessi Pasha, ii. 124, 194; his death, 214 G. H——, letter to Lady Burton on her book "Arabia, Egypt, and India," from, ii. 317-320 Gháfir, a necessity in Arabia, ii. 611 Ghana, king of, golden palace of the, i. 368, 526 Gharra, Burton's description of, i. 128, 142, 143, 155.; ii. 63 Ghartous, Nicolas, i. 502 Ghazu, a Bedawi raid, i. 472, 475 Ghazzeh, ii. 243 Gherba, cataract of, i. 313 Ghiyas, i. 494 Ghora, a, in India, i. 133 Ghoul-i-Biyábán, i. 185; ii. 467 Gibbon at Lausanne, ii. 370 Gibraltar, ii. 310; defences of, 312, 313; Burton's friends at, ii. 314 Gilchrist, Mr., i. 17, 20 Gill, Mr., murder of, ii. 242, 608, 611 relics of, ii. 613 Giraud, Lieut.-Colonel, i. 236 Gladstone, Mr., on Turkish engagements, i. 563; Burton meets, ii. 49, 141, 547. Glasgow Times on Sir Rieliard, ii. 292 Glennie, Mr., i. 420 Glossina morsitans, i. 285, 286, 288 Glubdubdrid, island of, ii. 145 n. Glyn, Admiral, died, ii. 274 Gnostic, i. 188 n. Goa, i. 148, 162; ii. 105: history of, 105; people of, 107; heat of, 107; religious history of, 110-112; ruined by the Inquisition, 112, 113 Goa Velha, ii. 106 Goanese church, where Burton became a Catholic, ii. 63 Goanese servants, i. 279, 282, 292 God, ii. 469; the racial expression of, 470 Golconda, history of, ii. 92; buildings in, 92, 93; deposition of the King of, 91; diamonds in, 525, 526 Gold, in Africa, i. 361; Burton's notes on, 361-364; in California, 362; from Elmina, 362; leading men in the gold trade, fifteenth century, 363; washing, 364, 373; limits of gold regions, 366, 367; native name for, 366; stools used by native kings, 368, 368 n.; Bosnian on, 369, 370; in Midian, ii. 166; in West Africa, Burton's note on, 178, 179; in Guinea, 224, 226, 227, 230-235; difficulties in working the, 226 Goldsmid, Sir F., i. 533; his attack upon Mrs. Burton, 534 Gondokoro, ii. 40 Gondolas in Venice, ii. 31 Gordon, Mr., i. 442, 443; his kindness to his slaves, 446, 447; meets Lady Burton in London, ii. 294 Gordon, General, i. 287, 303 n.; asks Burton to join him in the Soudan, ii. 43, 130; meets Mrs. Burton in London, 1880, 177; his success in checking the slave-trade, 192, 193, 195, 196, 202; Riaz Pasha undoes his work, 195; compulsory retirement of, 196, 197; 242; his death, 279; disbelieved, 280; in China, 543 Gorge de Triente, ii. 360 Gorizia, ii. 120, 214; in 1883, 243, 254, 399 Goschen, Mr., ii. 211 Goshen, land of, ii. 54 Gowan, Mr., ii. 232 Gozzadini, death of, ii. 350 Graham, Father, ii. 402 Grant Allen, i. 215; ii. 446 Grant, Captain, i. 388, 405; his African expedition, 407, 464; ii. 46; his attack upon Sir Richard after his death, 421, 422 Granville, Lord, and the Sházlis, i. 547, 548; his treatment of Burton, 567, 568 n.; ii. 327; misunderstood Burton's letter about the Sházlis, i. 597 Greece, the coast of, ii. 117; the future of, 547, 548; the army of, 552, 554 Greek in Oxford, i. 83 Greenhill, Dr., i. 69, 76, 82 Gregorutti, Dr., ii. 31 Gregory XVI., i. 42 Grey, Duncan, i. 96 Grey, Lady Elizabeth, ii. 401 Grey, Sir George, i. 339 Grierson, Mr., i. 561 Grindlay, Captain, i. 169, 170 Grindlay's fire, i. 345; valuable manuscripts lost in, ii. 439, 440 Grundy, Mrs., in Oxford, i. 79 Guebres, teaching of the, ii. 140 Guest, a curious, ii. 160, 161 Guinea, gold in, ii. 224, 227 Guinea Gold Coast Mining Co., ii. 232, 234 Guizot, M., his brother makes imitation wine, i. 54; on the supernatural, ii. 141 Gujarat, i. 106, 133; ii. 63; rainy season in, i. 122, 138 Guled, ii. 60 Gulwen, a servile republic in, ii. 588 Guni, river, i. 143 Gunners, Indian, i. 110 Gunning, Dr., i. 437 Guns worshipped in Baroda, i. 110 Gutmansthal, Mme., ii. 168; Saint Silvester's fêtes passed with, 244, 272; her picture of Captain Burton, 268 Gyaman, gold in, i. 372 Gypsy Lore Society, Journal of the, quotations from the, i. 251, 252 H Habr Awal Bedawi, i. 206 Hadi Abd Allah, Shaykh, i. 510 Hafiz of Shiraz, i. 186 n.; lines by, ii. 467 Hajar el Hablah, i. 501 Haji Abdu (Kasidah), ii. 456; seeking for Truth, 458, 472; believes in Law, 462, 463; on the soul, 465; borrows the Hindu idea of the body, 468; on a personal Deity, 469; on good and evil, 471, 476; on conscience, 472; on the protoplasm, 473; on faith, 474 Haji Wali, death of, ii. 253 Haji Jauhur, i. 148 Hajj in Jeddah, ii. 56 "Halifax, John," lines from, ii. 408 Halimát el Kabú, view from the, i. 522 Hallock, Mrs., answers Burton at the Spiritualist meeting, ii. 153-156 Hamáh, valuable monuments at, i. 525 Hamdan, i. 272, 273 Hamerl, Sheikh, on Lake Tanganyika, ii. 38 Hamerton, Colonel, Consul of Zanzibar, i. 257, 259, 263, 277-279; Burton's farewell to, 280; his qualities, 281; engaged porters for Burton's expedition, ii. 568, 570, 571, 572 Hamilton, Captain, on the diamond mines, ii. 526 Hamlet, ii. 52 Hammæum of Pliny, i. 362 n. Hammal, accompanied Burton to Mecca, i. 203; ii. 60, 214, 216, 217, 218 Hamman R'irha, baths at, ii. 392 Hanga, i. 321, 322 Hanna Misk, an ungrateful dragoman, i. 571 Hanu, the monkey, i. 133 Harar, Moslem Abyssinia, Burton's expedition to, i. 199, 207-213; Harar grandee, 207; language of, 209; ignorance in London respecting, 227; the Egyptians in, ii. 60 ——, the Amir of, i. 206-212; ii. 561 Hardman, Sir W., death of, ii. 405 Hare, Mr. A., ii. 135 Hargraves, Mr., i. 367 Hari Chand, ii. 480-483, 486, 489, 491, 495 Harrison, Mr., and zeo-electricity, ii. 156 Harry, Mr., The Palms, Malta, ii. 383 Harvey, Mr., on the Prestea reef, ii. 234 Hasan Brahim, Shaykh, house of, i. 514 Hasbeya, i. 509 Háshim, Shaykh, i. 150 Hatfield, Burton's visit to, ii. 294 Havelock, Sir H., on the Anglo-Indian army, ii. 72 Hawke, B. E., i. 21 Hawkins, Captain, at Surat, 1609, i. 139. Hawkins, Sir R, i. 369 n. Hawkins, Lieutenant, i. 182 Hazael, i. 483 Hazan el Faur, of the Faylin tribe, the camp of, i. 510 Hazel face, Mr., i. 350 Hazir, an ascent into the, i. 515 Hazramis in Jeddah, ii. 57 Hebrew faith, the, ii. 140 Heidelberg, i. 87 Hejaz, El, i. 179 Hejazi, the, ii. 57 Henniker, Mrs., i. 347 Henri III., ii. 143 Henry, Professor, ii. 105 n. Herat, ii. 542 Herbelot, d', ii. 600 Herbert, Mr. Sidney, i. 247 Herklots, Dr., "Qanoon-i-Islam," by, ii. 142, 145; 146, 149 Herne, Lieutenant, i. 198-200, 211, 217, 220-223 Hertford, Lord, and his Parisian architect, ii. 513 Herzegovina and Austria, ii. 502 n., 506; the future of, 510, 511, 546, 554; progress in, 555 Heslop, Rev. S., on diamond sandstone in India, ii. 527 Heyne, Dr., on, ii. 528 Hilgenfeld, Professor, i. 483 Hippopotamus, i. 264, 307; hunting the, 274 Hitchman, Mr., biography of Burton, by, i. viii.; 345; ii. 446 Hockley, Mr. E., on the magic mirror, ii. 148 Hodaydah, ii. 563 Hodgson, General, ii. 404 Hogg, Sir J., i. 118 Hohenlöhe, Princess, ii. 31, 213, 376 Holland, Queen of, ii. 49 Holman Hunt, ii. 55 Holy Land on the brain, i. 496, 497; a visit to the, 542, 544 Holyrood, i. 599 Home News, notice of the "Arabian Nights," ii. 290 Home Rule, Burton's letters on, in Austria and Ireland, ii. 304-307 "Honour, not honours," Burton's motto, i. 303; ii. 267 Hood, Mrs., i. 421 Hood, lines on gold, i. 361 Hormuzd, ii. 472 Horsemanship in India, i. 119, 135 Horses watering in the desert, i. 474; curious stopping, ii. 350, 403 Hossein, tragedy of, ii. 76, 77 Hough, Allred, lines on the devil, i. 544 Hough, Mrs., ii. 99 Houghton, Lord (late), his circle of friends, i. 344, 347, 376, 393, 463; at a publisher's dinner, 594; the Burtons' visit to, ii. 49; death of, 294 Houghton, Lord (present), i. 347 "Houris," the word, ii. 467 Howard, Cardinal, ii. 21 Hugo, Victor, i. 60; funeral of, ii. 282 Humboldt, Baron, on gold, i. 361 Hungarians, the, in Europe, ii. 505-507; in Austria, 508 Hungary, in 1876, ii. 505; a land of white Turks, 546 Hunt, Dr., i. 402, 404 Hunter, Major-General, i. 129 Hunter, Rev. R., ii. 527 Hutchinson, Dr., i. 382 Hutton, the bone-setter, ii. 177, 282 Huwaytat, tribe of Egypto-Arabs, ii. 612 Huxley's (Professor) pedigree of the horse, ii. 474 Hyderabad, i. 145; Burton's second visit to, ii. 65, 75; a journey to, 85; its prosperity, 85; its origin and history, 89, 90; its cleanliness and order, 91, 92; game-cocks of, 477 n. diamonds in, 525; coal in, 531, 534;; a volcano in, 531 ——, Nazim of, his government, ii. 85, 86; in the House of Lords, 531 I Ibrahim Khan Talpur, Meer, ii. 66, 480, 485, 491, 494 Iceland, Burton goes to, i. 591, 597; ii. 50; the sulphur mines in, i. 591; ii. 41, 43; the natives of, and their coffins, 67 n. Iddesleigh, Lord, ii. 329; his death, 332 Idria, ii. 124 Iguana, i. 283 India, cadet's outfit for, 1842, i. 95; Burton's first voyage to, 97-99; English morals in, 1842, 108, 109, 135; European life in, 1842, 108, ill, 131; formation of the Empire, of, 115, 116; interest required for promotion in, 1842, 154, 163; Burton's second visit to, ii. 53; natives of, in Jeddah, 56; Tombs of the Kings at Kalhora and Talpur in, 66; native marriage in, 80; native, opinion of the English in, 80, 88, 541; hospitality in, 86-89; disputes about our treatment of the natives of, 88; tombs in Golconda, in, 92; iron-mines in, 103, 533; native races in, 104, 519; climate of, 520; population, of, 520, 521; cause of famines in, 521; diamond-diggings in, 525; jewels in, 530; our policy in, 531; undeveloped resources of, 532; our mismanagement of, 536; poverty of, 536 ——, East, Company, its government in India, 105, 114, 134, 137; ii. 537; its position, 1842, i. 114, 115; position of an officer under the, 104, 131, 153; ungrateful treatment of, Burton by the, 345, 346; ii. 46, 327; its treaty with the Nizam of Hyderabad, 527 n. India, Portuguese, ii. 105 ——, Viceroy of, duties of the, ii. 519 Indian army, changed rulers, 1861, i. 345; the present, ii. 65, 69-75 Indo-Aryan race in Sind, ii. 75 Indo-Mediterranean Railway, ii. 176 Indrauni River valley, ii. 83 Indus, the river, ii. 75 —— valley, improvements in the, ii. 75; future of the, ii. 76 Ingotro, concession of gold in, ii. 230, 231 Inkermann, i. 229 "Inner Life of Syria," publication of the, ii. 40, 44, 56 Innsbruck, ii. 2, 188, 321, 322 Inquisition in Goa, ii. 110-113 Insects, in Gujerat, i. 138; in Africa, 265, 282, 285, 286; near Khok'lo, 288; at Ugogi and Kazeh, 293; in Brazil, 421, 427 Inskip, Mr., i. 45 Invalides, Hôtel des, i. 9 "Inventories," the, ii. 293 Iporanga lead-mines, i. 424, 425; did not take in London, 453, 455 Irby, Miss, ii. 128 Ireland, the Burtons in, i. 395-398; ii. 133; Home rule in, 304-307 Irish Catholics and the Magyars, ii. 506 Irora, i. 308 Irregulars in the Crimea, i. 237-247 Irving, Rev. Edward, i. 17 Irving, Henry, ii. 51, 162, 329 Isabel, Princess, of Brazil, i. 438 Ischel, ii. 220, 221 Ismail Pasha, Khedive, sends Burton to Midian, ii. 122, 126, 228; his abdication, 177, 288; abatement of the slave-trade under, 195, 196; on Arabi, 602 Ismailiyyeh, ii. 54, 605 Isonzo river, the, ii. 120, 503 Istria, castellieri of, ii. 27-30; fauna in, 29; Italian, not Austrian, 503 "It," curious episode of, ii. 180, 181, 434, 435 Italian Expedition to Egypt, ii. 504 Italy, the Burtons' journey to, i. 35; native amusements in, 36; in 1881, 52; in 1836, 53; an irregular marriage in, 62; a household in, 66; Mrs. Burton's visits to, ii. 23, 36, 37; prospects of, 497; politics in, 1876, 499, 502; frontiers of, 503; advances too fast, 504; and Tripoli, 549, 550; "unredeemed," 550; the rival of Austria, 502, 555 Izrâil, i. 195 J Jacob, General John, i. 56, 236; his house, ii. 66; his work, on the Indian army, 69-71; his incapacity, 74; his death, 75 Jacobabad, troops at, ii. 69, 70; climate of, 73, 76 Jacquemont, Victor, grave of, ii. 80; 528 James, Mr. Edwin, at Beatson's trial, i. 247 n. James, Mr. F., killed in Africa, ii. 397 Jamsetji Jijibhoy, Sir, ii. 100 Jats (gypsies) in India, i. 151; ii. 67, 82 Javanese, ii. 57 Jebel Atákah, ii. 54, 606 Jebel Barúk, i. 506 Jebel Durúz Haurán, i. 514 Jebel el Kulayb, i. 513 Jebel el Zowi, ruined cities in, i. 527 Jebel Jeneffeh, ii. 54 Jebel Mukattam, ii. 606 Jedawi, the, ii. 57 Jeddah, i. 178, 180; Burton sends a warning of trouble at, i. 324, 325; ii. 562-564; a visit to, 54, 55; the bazar in, 55-57; the voyage from, 58; massacre at, 1858, i. 325; ii. 513, 515-519, 565, British ships at, 563; imports and exports at, ii. 563 Jenkins, Dr., i. 72 Jephson, Captain, ii. 329, 403 Jeramánah, i. 483 Jeremiah, ii. 468 Jerid, an Arab, i. 473, 474, 507 Jerrold, Douglas, i. 79; death of, ii. 281 Jerusalem, i. 544; ii. 557; climate of, 609 Jesuits at Goa, ii. 108 Jesus Christ a Jew, i. 535 Jews, in Syria, i. 530; in London protect those in Syria, 530, 533; Mrs. Burton's admiration for the, 535; cruelty of the usurious, 536, 579; try to ruin Burton, 539; divisions of the —— in Damascus, 574 Jiwella, Mkioa, i. 289 Jobar, i. 483 Jogi, the (Hindu), ii. 149 John Knox, Burton on board the, 1842, i. 97-99, 154 Johns, Mr. W. J., and the Guinea Coast Company, ii. 228, 234 Johnson, Dr., ii. 143, 473 Johnson, Rev. G. L., ii. 220 Johnson, Mr. H., ii. 294 Johnstone, Mrs., ii. 128 Jokai, ii. 376 Jordan, sources of the, i. 509 Journal de Constantinople, i. 238 Jowett, Dr., i. 80; ii. 48 Joyner, Mr., his engineering in India, ii. 84, 103, 520 Jugglery in India, ii. 81 Juizdafora, oranges in, i. 440 Jumat Khana, the, ii. 76 Jumblatt, Sitt, i. 507, 508 K Ka'abah, i. 175, 176, 178, 365 n. Kabalán el Kala'áni (Druze chief), i. 515 Kadi, Moslem, and the Monks, ii. 81 Kafirs, ii. 586 Kafr Dawar, ii. 598 Kaimmákam of Jeddah, ii. 513 Kambirah, Mount, i. 317 Kanheri caves, ii. 83, 102 Kannena (African chief), i. 301-303, 306 Kaolé, i. 280 Karáchi, British troops at, 1844, i. 127, 140; in 1844, 126, 142, 154; sickness at, 148; Burton's shops at, 144, 156; ii. 63; Burton's second visit to, 62; native infantry at, 69; a terminus at, 76 Karágwah, highlands of, i. 299, 318; monsoon at, 320 Karla Caves, ii. 83 Karrachee Advertiser, i. 145 Karryatayn, i. 472, 473 Kars, Burton's plan for the relief of (Crimean War), i. 241; siege of, 242; fall of, 243; ii. 539; in Russian hands, 548, 556, 606 Karso, the, ii. 16, 26, 32; life on the, 40; like Hyderabad, 85; Burton's scientific expedition to, 124 Kasmor, ii. 75 Kasrawan, the, i. 501 Kasr Namrud, temple of, i. 523 Kátkaris, Indian tribe, ii. 104 Katta (sand grouse), a guide to water in the desert, i. 215, 515 Kawele, i. 303 Kayâni, i. 189 n. Kázeh, bad lodgings in, i. 292; Burton's return to, 308, 309; Speke's return to, 312 Kazi Mohammed Ghana, i. 359 Kean, Edmund, i. 29 Keane, Sir J., in India, i. 121 Keith, Major, ii. 420 Kelat as a sanitarium, ii. 75 Kellgren, Dr., ii. 330, 331 Kelly, Mr., Consul at Milan, ii. 52 Kenia, Mount, i. 319, 320 Kerbala, battle of, ii. 77 Khalfan bin Ali, i. 260 Khamoor, the Aral; maid, i. 504, 593; returns home, ii. 41 Khanum Jan, i. 157 Kharekwasla tanks, ii. 84, 520 Khátim-Sulaymán, the, ii. 144 n. Khiva, Russian invasion of, ii. 542 Khizr, i. 190 K'hokho, i. 288 K'hutu, i. 281 Kibuga in Uganda, i. 310 Kidd, Captain, i. 259 Kikobaga, river, i. 325 Kimwere, Sultan, i. 269, 270, 272, 273 King, Mrs. Hamilton, lines by, i. 329 Kinglake, Mr. A., i. 403 Kingsford, Dr. Anna, ii. 283, 293, 332, 333, 356 Kingsleys, i. 347 Kiperepeta, i. 325 Kipling, Rudyard, i. 159; ii. 80 Kirby Green, Mr., Consul of Marocco, 324 Kiringawána, i. 325 Kíríra, good climate of, i. 294 Kiruru, i. 281 Kisanga, i. 324 Kislingbury, Miss, ii. 138 Kisáwáhili, coast language in Africa, i. 311; word for gold, 366 n. Kismet, i. 194 n. Kitangure, river, i. 295, 310, 317 Kitara, the coffee mart, i. 316 n. Kitiri, island of, i. 316 n. Kizangu, village of, i. 272 Knowsley, Mrs. Burton's visit to, i. 595 Koh-i-noor, the, ii. 524-526; native estimate of the, ii. 96, 97; fatal history of the, 93, 95 Kohoday, i. 268, 272 Konduchi, a welcome return to, i. 326 Kondura, i. 213 Kossuth, ii. 555 Kotri, fort of, changes noted by Burton at the, ii. 65 Krainberg, ii. 321 Krapf, Dr., i. 312 n.; on Central Africa, 319 n. Kremer, Baron von, ii. 380; death of, 387. Kurds in Jeddah, ii. 56 Kurdestan, ii. 548 L Laborde, Count Léon de, ii. 145 Labouchere, Mr., ii. 222 Laeerda, Dr., i. 306 Lacy Evans, Sir De, i. 236 Lagos, i. 350, 352, 359 Laibach, ii. 212, 347 Laing, Mr. Robert, ii. 276 Laird, Mr. Macgregor, i. 376; ii. 542 Lake Hums, in Syria, i. 527, 528 Lake Liemba, ii. 39 Lake Ngami, i. 295 n. Lake Nyanza, water supply of the, i. 295, 296, 296 n., 312; formation of the, 305; Speke's discovery of, 312; ii. 421, 423; confused ideas about the position of, i. 316, 317; latitude and longitude of, 317; description of the, 318, 319; periodical flooding of, 320; Burton's note on Speke's discovery of, 405, 406; level of the, 408 —— Nyassa, or Kilwa, i. 316, 317; ii. 421 —— Tanganyika (Sea of Ujiji), Burton starts for, i. 253, 296; first sight of, 298; beauty of, 298; Burton explores, 302, 303; history of, 305, 306; of volcanic origin, 318; position of, 407, 408, 462, 465; resembles the Dead Sea, 542; Burton's discovery of, ii. 11, 421; 38, 39, 46, 569, 571 Lakki Hills, legend of the, ii. 63 Lamarck, ii. 462 Lambros, R., letter describing the Arabic Library at Damascus, i. 481-483 Lanauli, ii. 521 Lane, Mr., "Modern Egyptians" and magic, ii. 142, 144, 145; his edition of the "Arabian Nights," 283, 288, 624 Languages, Burton's method of learning, i. 81; studied by Burton in India, 122, 123, 159 Lanslebourg, i. 461 Larkána, i. 146; ii. 68 Larking, Mr. J., i. 169, 170, 458; ii. 162 Las Casas, Count, i. 8 Latin, English pronunciation of, i. 83 Lausanne, Burton at, ii. 370, 375; Gibbon at, 371; Voltaire at, 371, 375 Lavigérie, Cardinal, ii. 389 Lavino, Mr. H., ii. 253 Lavradio, Countess, i. 417 Law, Mr. and Lady A., i. 470 Lawlin, Captain, i. 372 Lawrence, Lord, ii. 522, 538 Layard, Sir H., i. 376 Layard, Lady, ii. 222 Lazzaroni, i. 49, 51 Lebanon, a trip in, i. 524-528 Lecture, Burton's last, at Geneva, ii. Lee, Sir E., ii. 392 Lefebre, Dr. F., on somnambulism, i. 143 Leghorn, i. 35, 36 Leicester Post, note on the "Scented Garden" from the, ii. 444 Leigh, Miss E., the clairvoyant, ii. 148 Leighton, Sir F., painted Sir R. Burton, i. 596; ii. 49 Leiningen, Prince of, i. 235 Lejeune, Louis, history of, i. 2, 12 Lennox-Berkeley, Major, i. 236 Lentaigne, Mr., the convict philanthropist, i. 396; ii. 331 Léon, Edwin de, article on Burton by, ii. 268 Leontes, river, i. 506 Leslie, Dr., with Burton, ii. 338-351 Lesseps, Baron Ferdinand de, ii. 130, 605 Letchford, Mr. A., painted Sir R. Burton and his house, ii. 377, 397; painted Sir R. Burton after death, 415 Letters on Burton's recall from Damascus, from the Press, i. 537-540, 580-584 Lever, Mr. C., his grave, ii. 408; his Irish squires like the Hungarians, 506 Levick, Mr., ii. 129; letter to Burton on gold in Midian, 178; death of, 354 Lewis, George, ii. 283 Leyden, ii. 361 Libanus, an excursion to the, i. 493, 495-497 Liebman, Professor, ii. 225, 226 Lief ben Saied's visit to the African Lakes, ii. 39 Lienz, a visit to, ii. 321, 368, 399 Lieulafait, Lewis, on diamonds, ii. 523 Life, cutting from, describing Burton at Trieste, ii. 269 Lingmálá, cinchona at, ii. 103 Lipizza, ii. 30 Liprandi, General, i. 229 Lisa, ii. 310, 347, 388, 397; returns home, 420 Lisbon, i. 416, 417 Lisle, Mr. J., ii. 369 Littai mines in Krain, ii. 212 Little Irons, African malady, i. 322 Liverpool Mercury, paragraph respecting Sir Richard Burton in the, ii. 397 Livingstone, Dr., i. 296 n., 365 n.; on gold-diggings near Tete, 366, 367, 367 n.; his disappearance, 462; his discovery of the Nile, 463, 464; ii. 38, 46; the greatest explorer, 39 Londonderry, Lord, i. 470; and Abd el Kadir, 486 Lord, Henry, ii. 525 Lords, House of, Indian princes in the, ii. 531 Loretto, a pilgrimage to, ii. 20 Louis XIV. and the Burton family, i. 12, 397 Lovett-Cameron, V.C., Captain, ii. 222. Lowe, Sir Hudson, i. 7 Lowman, Mr., at the Gold Coast, ii. 230, 231 Lucan, Lord, i. 229. Lucca, Baths of, i. 63, 65 Lucerne, ii. 359, 360, 375 Lucetta, i. 312 Lucretius, ii. 140 Luddah Damha, i. 280; ii. 569, 571 Ludlow, Edward, at Vevey, ii. 368-371 Ludwig Salvator, Archduke, ii. 346, 398 Lufu, river, i. 269 Lunge and cut in carte, i. 164 "Lusiads," ii. 181 Lyons, i. 460 ——, Gulf of, bad weather in the, ii. 313-315 Lythegoe, Father Randal, ii. 414 n. Lytton, Lady, in Lisbon, i. 416 M Maartens, Maarten, lines by, ii. 437, 445 Mabruki, i. 303; and his slave, 307 Macaulay, Lord, on rice, i. 294; ii. 547 MacDurdo, Captain, i. 155 MacFarlane's "Turkey and her Destiny," ii. 510 Machunda, Sultan, i. 314, 315 Macgregor, Duncan, lines by, i. 97 Maclagan, Dr., ii. 177 Maclaren, Archibald, i. 73 Maclean, Mr., ii. 79, 99, 527 n. Macleod, Mary, lines by, ii. 450 Macmahon, Sir T., i. 102 MacMahon, General, i. 227 MacMurdo, General, i. 161 MacNaghten, Mr., i. 95 Macpherson, Mr., ii. 288 Macqueen, Mr., on the Sources of the Nile, i. 312 n., 319 on the exportation of gold, 370; on Speke's expedition, 408; ii. 39 Madeira, i. 57; in 1863, 378, 379 Mad Said, i. 206, 207 Magic mirror, the, ii. 146, 148 Magyars, in Austria, ii. 500; in Hungary, 505; resemble the Irish Roman Catholics, 506; three orders of, 507 Máhábáleshwar, a sanitarium at, ii. 102, 103 Mahábhârat on the soul, ii. 473 Maharatta wars, great Englishmen connected with the, ii. 84 Maharattas, a new sect amongst the, ii. 99 Mahdi, ii. 600, 601 Mahmoud of Ghazni, i. 117 Mahmoud Shah, Emperor, ii. 95 Maier, Josef, ii. 188 Maizan, M., i. 257, 258, 326 Major, Mr., ii. 39, 106, 114 Makám Ibrahim (place of Abraham), i. 484 Makam Sayyid Sulayman, i. 265 Makata river, i. 284 Malachi, i. 361 Malagarázi, river, i. 291, 295; ii. 38; not navigable, i. 296; the alluvial valley of the, 299 Malakoff, i. 241 Malavaux, i. 459 Malcolm, Sir J., ii. 84, 102 Malcolm, Admiral Sir C., i. 102, 103 Malcolmson, J., on diamonds, ii. 527 Malet, Mr., and the slave-trade, ii. 204 Maloja, a drive to, ii. 402, 403 Malta, ii. 382-386, 504, 550; Fort St. Elmoin, 384; effect of, from the sea, 386 Man who wins, the, i. 353 Manchester Courier on Sir Richard Burton, ii. 299 Mandal, ii. 144 n. Mandina-land, gold in, i, 372 Mango tree, i. 326 Manhora, ii. 62 Manica, ruins of, i. 366 Manning, Cardinal, letter of condolence to Lady Burton, ii. 434 Mansûr el Hallâj, i. 186; ii. 467 Mansfield, General, i. 232 Manson, Lieutenant R. A., i. 124, 139 Mantidæ, i. 206 Maps of Africa, Burton's sketch map, i. 254, 410-415 Marabut Passage, the, ii. 593, 594 Marar Prairie, i. 204, 214 Marathon, ii. 547 Maraungu river, Speke's theories about the, i. 407 Marc Aurelius, ii. 464 March in India, a, i. 124, 125, 139 Marchesetti, Dr., on botany in India, ii. 520 Marcionites, heresy of the, i. 191 n. Marcovitch, Louis, ii. 417, 418 Maria Theresa, ex-Queen of Spain, ii. 33, 34 Maria-Zell, the Austrian Lourdes, ii. 379, 380 Marienbad, the cure at, ii. 221; the Burtons at, 238, 275 Marocco, Burton applies for the Consulate at, ii. 297, 312; what the Press said about it, 298-302; Mr. K. Green appointed, 324 Maronites, i. 501, 520; a stranger's reception by the, 520-522 Maroro, i. 325 Marriage amongst East African tribes, ii. 581, 582 Marryat, Captain, i. 23 Marsa, ii. 384, 388 Marseille, i. 53; ii. 395 Martin, Sir K., i. 361 Marungu, river, i. 306; ii. 38 Masáwwah, ii. 54, 562, 563 Masher, Burton and an Oxford, ii. 49; Gilbert and a, 49 n. Mashingn, gold-washing in, i. 367 Maspero, M., ii. 599 Massey, Gerald, lines to R. Burton, ii. 184 Massey, Mr., ii. 156 Matapan, ii. 593 Materialists, ii. 465 Mátherán, the villages near it, ii. 81; officers' sanitorium at, 82 Mattei, Count, his cure, ii. 247, 248-250; his castle, 248 Matter, ii. 473, 474 Matteucei, Mme., i. 64 Matthews, Mrs., i. 4 Maude, Colonel, and Burton's manuscript, i. 280 n. Maximilian, the Emperor, ii. 7, 19 Máyá, i. 139, 194; ii. 139, 476 Mayo, Lord, ii. 522, 538 Mazai, a plundering race, i. 268 Mazeppa, ii. 551 Mazita, i. 316 n., 319 Mazrui, Arab tribe, i. 260 Mbhali, i. 294 McCarthy, Mr. J., jun., ii. 285 McCarthy, J. H., sonnet to Burton by, ii. 431 M'Leod, Mr. Lyons, on gold at Matuka, i. 365 n., 366 Mdáburu jungle, the, i. 288, 324 Mdaduru, i. 324 Meade, Sir R. and Lady, ii 86-88 Meanee, battle of, i. 116, 137, 144; ii. 66, 481, 484; lesson of the, i. 141 Mecca, i. 175; Burton's journey to, 169, 170, 175-181; ii. 6, 11, 13, 301; observances at, i. 175; at night, 176; Lady Burton near, ii. 55 Medinah, Burton's visit to, i. 173, 174, 182; ii. 6, 11 "Meditations of a Hindu Prince," i. 176 Mekhitarists, ii. 593 Mekrami, i. 265 Melhem Beg Ahmad, i. 507 Melvill, Cosmo, official letters to Burton from, ii. 567, 574, 576 Mendelssohn, ii. 369 Menin Helbon, i. 484 Mentone, earthquake at, ii. 339 Menu on the body, ii. 468 Mermillod, Archbishop, ii. 374 Merv, ii. 538 Mess dinners in India, 1842, i. 107, ii. 112 Meteors at São Paulo, i. 429 Methone, ii. 593 Metternich, Mr. O. von, ii. 501 Metz, General, i. 242 Mganga (medicine man) in Africa, i. 270; ii. 587 Mgeta, river, i. 325 Mgunda Mk'hali, game in, i. 288, 289 Midian, gold mines in, ii. 55, 122; minerals in, 122, 126; the district of, 126; mines of, 228; Mr. Johns and the, 228 Milan, ii. 52, 282; raises a monument to Napoleon III., 499 Milton, ii. 468, 473 Minerals, in the desert, i. 497; in Egypt, ii. 122; in Midian, 126; from Midian assayed, 161 Miniature portrait of Sir Richard, i. 340 Mir Jurnla, finder of the Koh-i-noor, ii. 94 Miracle play, a Moslem, ii. 76-78 Mirage, a, i. 474 Miramar, ii. 7, 19, 31, 117 Mirambo, i. 321 n. Mirza Ali Akbar Khan Bahadur, i. 144; ii. 79; badly treated by the English, ii. 62 Mirza Dáud, i. 144 Mirza Hosayn, or Musayn, 148; i. 144, 145, 158 Mission to Damascus, testimonial to Burton sent by the, i. 565; his reply, 566, 567 Missionaries from the Cameroon Mountains at Burton's grave, i. 385 n.; of the British Syrian schools, slanders circulated by, 600 Missionary, an amateur, i. 528, 529 —— in Damascus, an account of Burton by a, i. 577-580 Mitylene, ii. 557 Mizzeh, i. 483 Mkomafi, affluent, i. 269 Moab, i. 515 Mocha, trade at, ii. 562, 563 Mohammed, the boy, i. 172, 176 —— the successors of, ii. 77; on slavery, 209 Mohammed Agha, i. 473 Mohammed Ali Pasha, in Egypt, i. 137, 362 n.; ii. 548, 550, 557, 600 Mohammed Kuli, Sultan, ii. 89, 90 Mohammed "Mucida," i. 137 Mohammedan mystery, a, i. 546, 547 Mombas, i. 260 Monckton Milnes, Miss, wedding of, ii. Monfalcone, baths of, ii. 189, 190; a village dance at, 214; a visit to, 1883, 253 Monkeys, in India, Burton's experiment with, i. 160; ii. 82; in Africa, i. 264; near the Usagára Mountains, 283; a caged one in Trieste, ii. 378 n. "Monomotapa," meaning of the word, i. 365 n. Monselice, ii. 36 Monson, Sir E., ii. 411 Monsoon, in Gujerat, i. 122, 138; in Bombay, 124, 139; meaning of the word, 138 n.; in Fuga, 271; in Karágwah, 320 Montalba family, ii. 52 Monte Carlo, ii. 339 Montefiore, Sir Moses, i. 533; his injustice to Burton, i. 572 Montenegro, ii. 507, 547, 553 ——, the Prince of, ii. 173 Monte Rua, ii. 36 Monte Santo, ii. 120 Monte Video, i. 51 Montêt, Messrs, de, ii. 366, 375 Montmorency, Countess of, i. 2, 12 Montreux, ii. 372, 373 Moore, Sir J., i. 3 Moors, the, in Kasidah, ii. 472 Moplahs, i. 149; ii. 516 Morgan, Lieut.-Colonel, i. 236 Morgan, Miss, i. 46, 47 Morning Post, Burton's letter on Home Rule from the, ii. 306; Lady Burton's letter on Sir Richard's illness to the, 398 Morpurgo, Baron, and family kind friends to the Burtons, ii. 4, 211, 217, 237, 238; prepares a fête for the Emperor of Austria, 239, 240; a masquerade given by, 245; a sea trip with the Burtons, 377 Morrice, Major, ii. 289 Morro Velho, the great mine at, i. 443, 444 Morse, General, i. 113 Mortlake, Burton's tomb at, ii. 431 Moser, Dr. Karl, ii. 166 Moses, i. 186 n.; and the Hebrew Pentateuch, ii. 466, 471; ignores future rewards and punishments, 468 Moses' Wells, ii. 116 Moslem, Shádili Order of, i. 549-551; divisions of the, 550; converted to Christianity, 551, 552; sects in Damascus, 574; feuds amongst the, ii. 76 Moslem heavens, ii. 64 Mott, General, removed the Somnath gates, i. 117 Mott, Mrs. Mentor, i. 599 Mountains, Cameroon, explored by Burton, ii. 6, 13; Cenis, pass of, i. 460, 461; Dákwah, 517; Elephant, 386; Fuga, 269; Hermon, 508; Kilma-ngao, 313, n., 318, 319; Kong, 361, 372, 374: Eunar, 299, 318; Speke's theories of the Moon, 301, 407; Mashinga, 366; Nanos, ii. 32; Schneeberg, expedition up the, 34; Schwarzhorn, 402 Mouravieff, General, i. 243 Mpete, malarious, i. 298 Msene, i. 291, 294 Msimbira, Sultan, i. 294 Msiky Mguru, i. 268 Muata Cazembe, i. 461, 462 Muhama nullah, i. 284 Muhárram, feast of, ii. 76 Muhayya, Sultan, i. 314 Muigni Khatib, i. 263 Muigni Wazira, African guide, i. 266, 267-270 Muingwira river, the, i. 317 Muinyi Chandi, i. 294 Muktara, i. 507 Mukumbara Mountains, i. 269 Mules in Brazil, i. 440 Mulhem Rustam, Emir, i. 508 Mullan, Mr., the publisher, ii. 162; death of, 189 Mungo Park on gold, i. 372 Munich, ii. 1, 2, 188 Murad Ali, i. 273 Murchison, Sir E., the discoveries in Africa, i. 296, 328, 462; in gold, 361, 362, 462; his injustice to Sir Richard, 463, 464, 593; his death, 594 Murray, Admiral, i. 76 Murray, Grenville, i. 234 Murray, Lady, fancy-dress ball at Cannes, ii. 334 Mürzüschlag, ii. 378 Musa, ii. 588 Musa Mzuri, his kindness to Burton, i. 290; returns to Kazch, 321 Musaylimah, ii. 491 Mushajjar, ii. 134 n. Music, bar of, ii. 169; in Scinde, 490, 491 Mustafa Bey, bigotry of, i. 560 Musurus Pasha, i. 596 Mzegura, Chief, i. 268 Mzizi Maogo, a healthy climate, i. 282, 283 N Nabi Baruh, Convent of, i. 520 Nachtigall, death of, ii. 281 Nadir Shah, ii. 95, 535 Nahr el Kowwáyyik wrongly placed on the maps, i. 526 Namik Pasha, Wali of the Hejaz, ii. 516-518 Nana Sahib (born at Narel), ii. 81, 83 Náo Mall, i. 147; murdered Anderson, 151 Napier, Sir Charles, i. 108, 116, 117; his dispute with Major Outram, ii. 116-118; his character, 118; and Staffat Sind, 127; 129; appointed to the command at Sind, 131; his victories, 137; his appearance, 140; appointed to the command at Poonah, 141; his poverty, 141; his skill as an inventor, 142; a newspaper started by his friends, 145; Burton on his Staff, 159-162; his love of decision, 161; his model officer, 228; as a chief, 247 n.; his method of fighting, ii. 66; his views on the Indian army, 70 Napier, Sir William, i. 140; "Conquest of Scinde" by, 141 Napier and Ettrick, Lord, i. 231 Napier of Magdala, Lord, ii. 73; his departure from Bombay, 98 Napier, John, letter from, to General Scott, i. 146 Napier, Captain, on board the Triton, i. 419, 420 Naples, i. 44, 46, 51; English Society in, 47; cholera in, 51; in 1886, ii. 313, 315 Napoleon I., his death, i. 5; his life at St. Helena, 6, 7; cast of his head taken by Francis Burton, 6, 9, 10; his hair preserved in the Burton family, 9; sequel to the story of the Burton relics of, 11 Napoleon III., i. 226, 229, 244, 486; ii. 499; made use of England, 539 Nasif Meshaka, Mr., letter to Burton from, i. 502, 532 Nats, ii. 82 Nautch, a, i. 113, 124 Naval Club, Royal, dinner given in Burton's honour by the, ii. 236 Navy, the Indian, i. 102; Nazareth, i. 543 Négri, Christoforo, ii. 52 Negro, the, in Sierra Leone, i. 350-354, 356, 357, 359; in Brazil, 430; a magnetizer, ii. 149 Neil, Brigadier T. G., i. 239 Neuberg, ii. 379 Neville, Colonel and Mrs., ii. 40, 86-89 Newbold, Captain, on diamonds, ii. 527, 530 Newcastle, Duke of, i. 236 Newman, Cardinal, i. 76, 77, 545 Newman, F. H. W., ii. 460 Newton, Sir Isaac, i. 577 Nice, ii. 395, 396 Nicholas, Emperor, i. 233 Nicholas, Grand Duke, ii. 537 Nicholson, Admiral, ii. 251 Nicolaus of Damascus, i. 484 Nicora, Dr., i. 227 Nifon, Greek Bishop, unscrupulous, i. 543, 570, 573; Burton wins his action against, 595, 596 Niger, river, i. 296 n., 360; silver near the, 371 n. Nile, White, Speke's supposed discovery of the Sources of the, i. 312, 313; 319 n., 320; Burton's theories of the, 404, 407, 408; Speke's journey to the, 405; Burton's travels led to the discovery of the Sources of, 462-466; Mr. Findlay's letter on the, ii. 38-40 Nimrod, legend of, i. 523; ii. 479 n. "Nip," death of, ii. 118 Nirvânâ, i. 195; ii. 466, 476 Niven, Dr. and Mrs., ii. 375 Nolan, Captain, i. 229, 230 Northbrook, Lord, in India, ii. 73, 522, 538 Notes and Queries on Louis Lejeune, i. 12, 13 Novalis, the Christ of, ii. 457 Novikofif, Mme. Olga de, ii. 221 Nubar Pasha, ii. 180, 196 O Ober-Ammergau, the journey from Venice to, ii. 186; the Passion Play at, 187, 188 Oberdank, the bomb-thrower, ii. 244 O'Callaghan, Rev. Robert, ii. 3, 33 Ode composed when Persia was invaded by Taimur, i. 528 Officers, English, in India, i. 119, 120 Ogham "Runes," ii. 134 n. Ogilvie, Mr., Consul in Jeddah, ii. 516 Ogilvie, Lieutenant, i. 238 "Oh, when wilt thou return?" i. 375 Oldham, the brothers, i. 48 Oliphant, Laurence, i. 327; ii. 51; his Mosallam, ii. 393; his advice to Speke, 424; a mischief-maker, 425, 557 Oliver, Captain, R.N., i. 103 Omar Beg, Mme, pets of, i. 478 Omar Bey and his mare, i. 541 Omar-i-Khayyám, i. 186 Omar Pasha at Kars, i. 242 Onslow, Guildford, i. 30 Opçina, village of, ii. 15, 16; Daneu's Inn at, 17; the Burtons at, 35, 118, 132, 243, 244, 341, 344; sharks at, 119; life at, 166; excursions from, 175; charity to a Capuchin, 185, 186; a village ball at, 211; a dog at, 278; the Burtons entertain the British Squadron at, 215, 216 Ootacamund, i. 148, 149 Oratava, 1863, i. 380 O'Reilly, Colonel, i. 236, 247 Orford, Lady, ii. 23, 331 Oriel College, i. 80 Ormiston, Mr. ii. 81 Orsay, Count D', i. 9, 63 Osborne, Bernal, i. 243 Ossian on the camel-driver, ii. 468 Ostrich race in India, ii. 88 Ottoman Empire, ii. 510; and England, 511; English subjects under the, 512 Ouida, i. 519; ii. 23 Oural Mountains, i. 361, 362 n. Ouro Preto, i. 443 Outram, Sir J., i. 108, 116, 117, 141; his character, 118; 142, 143, 198; at Kotir, ii. 65 Owen, Captain, i. 277 Owl in India, ii. 482, 482 n. Oxford, Burton at, 1840, i. 69-82, 89; Burton left, 91, 153; he revisits, ii. 48, 323, 329 P Padongo tribe, i. 317, 319 Padua, ii. 36 Page, Mr. T., ii. 21, 22; murdered in Jeddah, 516 Paget, Sir A. and Lady, ii. 21, 275 Paget, Lord William, i. 56 Palanquin, travelling in a, i. 132 Palermo, ii. 133 Palestine, the future of, ii. 548; return of the Jews to, 549 Paley, T., letter to Burton upon the Persæ, ii. 158 Palgrave, Mr., i. 180, 501 Pallagio, ii. 37 Pall Mall Gazette, letter to the, on Pantagruelism, ii. 291; notice of Burton's letter on Home Rule in the, 306 Palmer, Professor, i. 232, 478, 500; on Burton's recall from Damascus, 580; his disappearance, ii. 242; the search for, 242, 608; his murderers punished, 246; his grave, 247, 613; his talents and work, 609, 610; his last journey, 611; his murder, 612 Palmerston, Lord, i. 32, 225, 226, 233, 244; gives a party in Burton's honour, 345; and Turkey, ii. 511; his mistakes, 539, 548; rebuked by the Crown, 540; 545 Palmyra, or Tadmor, i. 69; Burton determines to visit, 470; the difficulties, 471; the first sight of, 475, 476; the journey to Damascus from, 476-479 Palmyra s.s. carries the remains of Sir Richard to Austria, ii. 427, 429 Pangany, i. 262, 263; on the way to, 272, 274 —— river, falls of the, i. 273 Panjim, New Goa, ii. 106 Panmure, Lord, i. 246 Pannali, diamond mines or, ii. 528, 529 Panther, a pet, i. 505, 506 Papadopulos, M., i. 481-483 Papataci, i. 427 Papworth, Mr., models a bust of Speke, i. 389, 390, 403 Paracelsus, ii. 140 Paraguay, Burton's book on, i. 453 Paraguayan War, scarcity of provisions in Brazil during the, i. 433 Paray le Monial, ii. 282 Parenzo, Cathedral of, ii. 377 Pareto, Signor, ii. 21, 22 Paris, Treaty of, 1856, i. 244; broken, ii. 507, 510 Paris, at the last Fête Napoleon, i. 459; ii. 52; 1875, 496; dreamt of revenge, 498; Anglo-American, 1876, 499 Parsce charnel-house on Towers of Silence, ii. 97, 98 Parthenope, i. 50 Paskievich, ii. 501 Pan, i. 55-57 Pavangarh, hill of, i. 136 Payer, Lieutenant, ii. 508 Payne, Mr. J., an edition of the "Arabian Nights" by, ii. 284, 287, 441 Peel, Mr., in Oxford, i. 75 Pélissier, General, i. 230, 241 Pellegrini, Carlo, ii. 51, 294, 374 Pelly, Sir Louis, ii. 70 Pemba, i. 259 Pender Cudlip, Mrs., ii. 43 Pentamerone of Basili, ii. 334, 454 Pentapolis, proposed railway through the, ii. 607 Perdicarius, M., his home, ii. 303; Mohammed Benoni, by, 357 Pernambuco, i. 418 Perrier, Casimir, i. 25 Perry, Sir W., ii. 3 Persia, ii. 535 Persian merchants at Jeddah, ii. 56 Perugia, an evening in, i. 39, 40 Peterson, Mr. and Mrs., ii. 84 Petherick, Consul, and Speke, i. 408, 457 Petrarch, tomb and house of, ii. 36; 499, 503 Petropolis, i. 440 Pfalbauten, ii. 167 Pharphar, river of, i. 484, 512 Phiala, Lake, i. 511, 511 n., 543 Phillips, Rev. M., i. 92 Pictorial World, note on Captain Burton from the, ii. 298 Pig-sticking in Baroda, i. 109 Pigafetta, ii. 37, 39 Bigott, Miss Blanche, with Mrs. Burton, ii. 237, 254 Pilatus, Mount, ii. 359 Pilfold, Lieutenant, i. 102 Pilgrim-ships from Jeddah, ii. 58-60, 515 Pillaw in Africa, i. 294 Pinalli, Dr., ii. 36 Pinqua d'Agua mistaken for diamonds, i. 449 Pinjrapole, animal hospital in Bombay, ii. 100 Pino, Baron, ii. 119, 120; transferred to Linz, 174, 177, 222 Pisa, i. 36, 37; climate in, 36, 61; Burton's life in, 61, 62 Pitt, i. 577; relics of, at Bromley Holwood, ii. 365 Planina, ii. 378 Plato, i. 191 n. Poison amongst negroes in Brazil, i. 452 Polygamy in India, ii. 486 Polytechnic, Burton's travels in Mecca at the, i. 398 Pompeii, i. 48, 49 Poonah, i. 122; journey from Kaila to, ii. 83; at Poonah, 84 Pope, Lieutenant, i. 84 Pope, on a friend, i. 329; on good and evil, ii. 471; on error, 475 Popes, logic of the, ii. 504 Porters in Africa, i. 291, 307 Portugal, the Burtons in, i. 416, 417 Portuguese, in search of gold, sixteenth century, i. 363; at Yatur, 367 n.; in Goa, ii. 107 Pot and potter theory of life, ii. 468 Pottinger, Sir Henry, i. 399 Praed, Mrs. Campbell, ii. 394 Prayer, answers to, ii. 409 Preedy, Captain, i. 127 Press, note by the, on Burton, ii. 229; notes by the, on Sir R. Burton's pension, 326-328; reviews of the "Arabian Nights," 617 Pretis, Barton de, ii. 237 Prevald, an excursion to, ii. 32 Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, Lady Burton's efforts for the Society for the, ii. 8, 127, 225, 243, 293, 427 Primrose, Colonel Everard, ii. 134, 167, 217; goes to the Soudan, 277; death of, 277, 281 Primrose, Lady, i. 2, 12, 13 Prongs, lighthouse at, ii. 81 Propertius, ii. 461 Protestantism, in India, 1840, i. 103; converts to, in Syria, 559; case of Hajj Hassan, 559-562, 565, 566; case of Hammud, 561, 562 Provence, i. 35 Proverbs, African, collected by Burton, i. 387 Prussia, ii. 497; and Trieste, 502, 503 Pryce-Harrison, Mrs., i. 11 Ptolemy, geography of, ii. 39 Pullen, Captain, of the Cyclops, ii. 516-518. Punány, i. 148 Punch on Mrs. Burton's letters to the Times and Athenæum, i. 466 Pusey, Dr., i. 77 Pushkin, ii. 547 Pusiano, ii. 282 Puy, the descent to, i. 460 Puységur, Marquis de, discovered hypnotism, ii. 144 Q Quaritch, Mr. B., ii. 182, 297 Queen, the Jubilee in Trieste, ii. 341-344; grants Lady Burton a pension, 430 Queen newspaper, chaff from the, ii. 262 Quoz, ii. 402 R Races in Baroda, i. 113, 137 Ragatz, ii. 401 Raglan, Lord, in the Crimea, i. 228, 229, 238, 241 Rahewat, the Mekrani, i. 266 Rajah's treatment of ryots who found gold, i. 365 n. Rakb, i. 174 Ralstone, Mrs., sudden death from yellow fever, i. 432 Ramjie Banyan, i. 280; ii. 569, 573 Ramsgate, i. 88 Ranken, G. Elliot, death of, ii. 381 Rao Machi, battle at, ii. 82 Ras Raschíd, i. 261 Rashíd et Bóstají, a faithful Druze, i. 517 Rashíd, Pasha, Wali at Syria, i. 237, 469, 481; rule of the, 494, 497, 502; his intrigue with the Druzes, 517, 518; his treatment of Christian converts, 554, 555, 557, 559, 560; his recall, 570, 576, 584, 598; his enmity to Burton, 571, 572; his injustice and rapacity, 574, 581, 582; his short triumph, 586; thanks Mrs. Burton for her conduct to the Shaykh's son, 601 Rathborne, Colonel, letter to Burton, ii. 245 Rathborne, Mr., i. 145 Rauf Pasha, i. 559; ii. 60; his cruelties, 194; sent to stop the slave-trade, 195 Rawlinson, Sir H., i. 244 Raymond, General, ii. 87 Reade, Charles, i. 596; his hero and martyr, 604, 605; his death, ii. 274; lines by, 415 Reade, Winwood, i. 395; a ghost story told by, 592; his illness and death, ii. 43, 44, Réclus, Élisée, ii. 374, 375 Recoaro, ii. 36, 37 "Recorder," the, ii. 283 Red Sea, the, ii. 53; slavery in the, 518, 519, 563, 564 Reece, Mr., i. 260 Reed, on board the, i. 218 Reich, fencing-master, ii. 226; suicide of, 246 Reid, Mayne, Captain, ii. 271 Reinisch, Dr., details of the slave-trade given by, i. 194, 198 Reptiles in Brazil, i. 427 Revival of Christianity in Syria, Fray Emanuel Förner and the, i. 546, 547, 552, 555; Drake's letter on the, 583, 584 Rey, Rio del, i. 360 Rhapta, i. 363 n. Rhine, the, i. 85 Riaz Pasha, ii. 195; his policy, 196; his slights to Gordon, 196; revives the slave-trade in Egypt, 197-200; his circulars on the slave-trade, 201-205, 206 Ribandar, a convent near Goa, ii. 109 Richards, A. Bates, i. 4, 15, 73, 91; his article on Burton in the World, ii. 4, 10; on Burton and Speke, etc., 11-15; President of dinner at the Licensed Victuallers given to Burton, 49 Richmond, Burton family at, i. 28 Rigby, Major-General, at Zanzibar, i. 324, 327; contradicts Burton at a meeting, 593; his death, ii. 281; injustice to Burton, 424; report on Burton's expedition, 567-573 Rigi, ii. 359 Rio de Janeiro, i. 418, 439 Riviera, the, ii. 395, 396 Robin, a drowning, ii. 409 Rogers, Bey, death of, ii. 281 Rollet, M. Brim, i. 319 Romany, an Indian race, ii. 82 Rome, i. 41-43; Holy Week, 1833, in, 42, 43; ii. 21 Roumelia, ii. 547; Mastern policy of, 554 Römerbad, friends in, ii. 168 Rosetti, Gabriel, ii. 226 Rossi, Dr., on Egyptian sorcery, ii. 144 Rossi, the Italian master, ii. 119, 120 Roth, Herr Gottfried, his efforts to stop the slave-trade, ii. 199, 200, 202; an attempt to silence him, 205 Rousseau, J. J., on falsehood, i. 435, 469 Rousselets, Mr. L., on the mines of Pannah, ii. 528; on diamonds, 530 Roustan, M., ii. 211 Rubáiyat, the, i. 184 Rubeho, hospitality at, i. 286 Rubuga, visit from an Arab merchant at, i. 289, 323 Ruche, river, i. 307 Rudolf of Hapsburg, Prince, i. 544; ii. 25, 211, 212, 356; his death, 375; his tomb, 381 Rufij, river, i. 321, 326 Rufuta, i. 284 Rúmá, i. 372 Rumuna, bad climate of, i. 286 Runjeet Singh, i. 117; ii. 96 Rusizi, river, i. 302, 306, 407; Stanley's account of the, ii. 38 Russell, Lord J., appoints Purton to Fernando Po, i. 344; his views on gold, i. 362 n., 386; sends Burton to Dahomè, 381; commends Burton, 385 Russell, W. H., in the Crimea, i. 246 Russia and India, ii. 318; paragraph from Lady Burton's book about, 320; and France, 1876, 498; in 1848-49, 507; M. Vambéry and, 508; in Asia, 510, 540, 541, 548; prepared to invade India, 1791, 535, 538; her management of the trans-Caucasian provinces, 536; railways built by, 537; her change of plan, 1869, 541; invaded Khiva, 542; and China, 543; and Turkey in Asia, 548; her sympathy with Armenia, 556 Russian spy on a pilgrim-boat, ii. 59 Rustam, ii. 484 Ruxton, Miss, i. 31-33 Rwaha, river, i. 326 Ryan, Dr., i. 101, 107, 130 S Sa'ad, Shaykh, i. 174 Sabatier, Mr., account of the massacre in Jeddah, ii. 516-518 Safvet Pasha (Count Kossichsky), ii. 121, 123 Sagrado, ii. 214 Said bin Salim, i. 259, 262, 264, 274, 278, 289, 300, 307; ii. 568, 569; dishonesty of, i. 280; selfishness of, 289; untrustworthy, 291; incivility of, 296; difficulties with, 309; carelessness of, 323; discontent of, 327; false statements of, ii. 572 Saidnaya, convent of, i. 484 Said, Port, English friends at, ii. 53 Said of Zanzibar, the, i. 258, 259 St. Arnaud, Maréchal de, i. 228 Saint Augustine, ii. 459, 460; Burton's favourite motto from, i. xi.; quotation from, i. 184 n. St. Helena, house used by Napoleon at, i. 8; signal book used during his sojourn at, i. 7 St. James's Gazette, notice of the "Arabian Nights," ii. 290 Saint John, Mr., i. 43 St. Malo, i. 22, 23 St. Maurice, convent at, ii. 361; its treasures, 373 Saint Paul, ii. 140 St. Peter's, Austria, ii. 356 St. Vincent, i. 418 Sakakini, M. Jules, ii. 209 n. Sakhar, i. 146; second visit to, ii. 66; climate of, 73, 76 Sala, Comte della, appointed to suppress the slave-trade, ii. 201, 202, 204; his work, 205 Sala Mascondi, murdered at Jeddah, ii. 517 Salahíyyah, i. 470; Lady Burton leaving, 588; untrue reports of, 605 Salaman, Dr., ii. 69 Salamiyyeh, i. 525 Salar Jung, Sir, ii. 86; his palace, 86, 87; his kindness, 530 Saleh, ii. 403, 404 Salih, letter on Burton by a missionary in Damascus, i. 490 Salim bin Rashid, i. 315, 316 n., 321; ii. 586, 587 Salim bin Said, hospitality of, i. 294 Salim bin Salih, i. 308 Salisbury, Lord, offers a K.C.M.G. to Burton, ii. 311; and the alliance with China, 318-320 Salt Lake City, Burton visits the, i. 338; ii. 6, 12-14 Salt-mines in Austria, ii. 220 Salusbury's, Dr., treatment, ii. 349 Salzburg, ii. 220; scientific meeting at, 220 Samäden, extortion at, ii. 402 Sambúk, a pilgrim-boat, i. 173 San Bartolo, ii. 31, 119 San Daniell, ii. 175 San Francisco river, the, i. 446, 449 San Lourenço, Hindu Goa, ii. 106 San Paulo, journey up to, i. 421; Burton's literary work at, 436 Sandstorm at Gharra, i. 128, 129 Sand with, Mr., ii. 44 Sanitaria in India, importance of, ii. 102 Sanitaria in Bombay, 1843, i. 102 Santos, Brazil, voyage from Rio to, i. 419; the town, 420; its disadvantages, 421; a regatta at, 453 Santos, Marchesa de, i. 432 Santos, São Paulo, i. 415 Sányasi, burial alive, i. 160, 161 Sardanapolis, ii. 467 Sartoris, Mrs., i. 459 Sassoon, marriage of Mr. and Mrs. A., ii. 4; family, 98 Sauerbrunn, Rohitsch, Burton at, ii. 276; notes on, 347, 350; thunderstorm at, 348 Savile, Charles, i. 47 Sawahilis, impudence of the, to Europeans, i. 259; change produced by Colonel Hamerton, 259 Sawakin Moslem, the, ii. 57; slave-trade at, 563 Sáwantwádi, mutiny in, i. 143 Sayyid el Amidi, murders Mr. Page, ii. 516 Sayyid Majid, Sultan, i. 327 Sayyid Said, i. 265; a trick with French silver, 366 n. Scandinavian Fate-spinners, ii. 472 Scarlett, General, i. 229 "Scented Gardens," controversy on, ii. 438, 440; Burton's work in the, 441; spurious edition of the, 443 n., 445; the copyist's opinion of the, 444 Schamyl, Prince, i. 243, 244 Schapira, Rev. Mr., ii. 30, 296 Schiller, ii. 469 Schlangenbad, i. 87 Schlieman, Dr., of Troy, ii. 352 Schloss Sternstein, the Burtons at, ii. 316 Schmidt, Mme., ii. 247, 248 Schomberg, Duke of, and a cat, ii. 143 Schopenhauer, i. 139; ii. 468, 471 Schuhardt, Professor, ii. 378 Schuyler, M., ii. 508 "Scinde; or, the Unhappy Valley," written, i. 140, 158, 159 Scinde, food in, ii. 488; children in, 489, 490; a musician in, 490, 491; music in, 492; effect of a musical snuff-box in, 493, 494 Scorpions, in Syria, i. 511, 516; at Ugogi, 292 Scott, Lord John, i. 78 Scott, Mr. Orr, missionary, letter expressing his admiration of Captain Burton, i. 537 Scott, Colonel Walter, i. 125, 126, 140, 143, 145, 155, 159 Scottish gentlemen, i. 126 Sea, idiosyncrasies of different nationalities on the, ii. 115 Seacole, Mrs., i. 229 Sebastian, Don, i. 363 Sedgwick, Professor, i. 361 Séhwàn, Burton's practical jokes at, i. 146; ii. 68 Selamíyyah, i. 474, 475 Selby, Captain, ii. 217, 219; his death, 225 Seminary at São Paulo, i. 424; a monk and a bully, 433 Semiramis, on board the, i. 125, 126 Semmering, ii. 380 Senegal river, gold in the influents of the, i. 372 Sepoy, the, i. 100; mutiny in 1844, 129; soldiers, ii. 71; the army, 536 Serravallo-Minelli, Mdlle., ii. 124; death of, 346 Servia, ii. 507, 547, 553 Setif, ii. 391 Seymour, Admiral, ii. 217 Seymour, Sir Hamilton, i. 225 Sfetez, S. di G., lines to Trieste, ii. 428 Sha'aban, i. 267 Shaftesbury, Lord, ii. 283 Shah Shooja, i. 117; ii. 96 Shakkah, i. 514 Shaw, Dr., Burton's letter to, i. 338, 339 Shaykh Hamid, i. 173, 174 Shaykh Jámi, Ulema, of Harar, i. 211, 212, 214 Shaykh Masud, i. 294 Shaykh Nur, i. 175, 179 Sházlis, the, i. 546, 547 Shelley, lines from, i. 184, 597; ii. 85 Shere Ali Khan, during the Indian Mutiny, ii. 522, 538 Shi'ahs, ii. 76, 78 Shikarpur, i. 129; ii. 66, 68, 73; bazar of, 69 Shirley, Colonel, i. 247 Shurparaka, ii. 81 Shoe, Burton's attempt to pair an odd, ii. 264 Short, Rev. Thomas, i. 78, 90; ii. 167 Sidra, Gulf of, ii. 549, 550, 607 Siena, i. 38, 39 Sierra Leone, the negro in, i. 350, 551; absurdly treated, 352-354; climate of, 359 Sierra Nevada of California, i. 361, 362 n. Sikh War, the, i. 146 Silver, near the Niger, i. 371 n.; Burton's love for, ii. 190 Simpson, General J., i. 146, 227, 230, 241 Simpson, R. Vaughan, ii. 404 Sinai, Mount, ii. 55 Sind, Burton's description of, 1842, i. 126, 127; native customs in, 142; a later visit to, ii. 62; horse, the, 69; artillery at, 70; devoid of great monuments, 75; political position of, 76 Sindia Felix, ii. 68 Sirdar Ekrem, the Turkish, ii. 507 Sivaji murdered General Azyul Khan, ii. 103 Skene, Mr., i. 234, 239, 242; his unfair treatment of General Beatson, 246-248 Slade, Dr., the spiritualist, ii. 155 Slav, the, peasantry, ii. 16; nation, 500, 501; the future race of Europe, 508; Turk, 544, 545 Slave-trade, England's former support of the, i. 357; coast of the, 371; Burton's letters to Granville on the, in Egypt, ii. 192-195, 196-210, 615; and the Bible, 209 n.; in the Red Sea, 518, 519, 563, 564; in Zanzibar, 587, 588: prices of slaves in Zanzibar, 589; 590 Small-pox in Africa, i. 284 Smashán, a Hindu burning-ground, i. 102; ii. 99, 100, 267 Smith, Mr., on Dahomè, i. 382 Smith, Mr. Edward, report on the Kitzia concession of gold, ii. 232, 233 Smith, Miss Penelope, i. 46, 47 Smith, Major-General Richard, in the Crimea, i. 245 Smith, Walter C., lines on the "Self-Exiled," ii. 450, 451 Smith, Professor W. Robertson, ii. 192; visits the Coptic convents of the desert, 197; discovers the centre of the slave-trade, 198 Smoking in England, 1840, i. 75, 76 Smugglers at Duino, ii. 213 Snakes, in Brazil, i. 428; an original treatment for the bite of, 437 Snay bin Amir, i. 290, 291; important information received from, 293; visits Suna at Uganda, 311, 316; his hospitality, 321; left by Speke in the bush, 321 n. Society on Sir R. Burton, ii. 299 Socrates, ii. 465 Sofala, expeditions in search of gold at, i. 362, 363 Somali, Burton's visit to the, i. 203, 205; ii. 6, 12, 13; the settled, i. 206; attack Burton in Berberah, 219, 221: merchants in Jeddah, ii. 57; children, 582; priests, 582; music, 584 Somerset, Duchess of, ii. 278 Somerset, Duke of, died, ii. 302 Somnath, Gates of, i. 117 Song of Maysúnah, i. 171 Soofi, the, their ideas on law, ii. 462; views of life, 467, 468; their eschatology, 464; Elijah the, 471; on the soul, 473, 475 Sorrento, i. 44 Soul, the, in ancient books, ii. 465, 466 Sowerby, Mr., on diamonds in India, ii. 532, 533; on iron-making in India, 533; on cheap railways, 534 Spaniards at Argélés, i. 59 Speke, Rev. B., disappearance of the, ii. 211 Speke, Captain, in Somali-land, i. 198-200, 217, 219-223; ii. 13; goes to Africa with Burton, i. 257; at Wasin, 261; at a hippopotamus hunt, 275; ill at Chogway, 276, 278; his second journey with Burton, 281; ill at Dut'humi, 281; at the Usagára Mountains, 286, 287; his ignorance of Arabic, 290; leaves Burton, 293; at Msene, 294; at Usagozi, 295; reaches Tanganyika, 298; returns to Ujiji, suffers from his ear, 301; reaps the credit of Burton's exploits, 304, 309, 310; ii. 14; wished to buy a pig, i. 308; knows no African languages, 309; at Kazeh, 308, 310, 311; discovered Nyanza, 312, 464, 465; his reply to Dr. Krapf on the large lake, 312 n.; is unfriendly towards Burton, 315; mistakes in his geographical report, 316 n.; left Snay bin Amir in the bush, 321 n.; in ill health, 322; his character, 323, 407; leaves Burton on good terms apparently, 327; ii. 424; his treachery, i. 328, 330; his regret, 331; in command of a new expedition to Africa, 339; his return from Africa, 388, 389; his sudden death, 389, 405; ii. 14, 426; his bust by Palgrave, i. 390; Burton's opinion of him, 403; ii. 425; his book on the Nile, i. 405, 406; fêted in Egypt, 405, 406; his Mountains of the Moon, 407; ii. 38; his claims in his speech at Taunton, i. 407; Macqueen's opinion of his expedition, 409; his maps, 410, 415; various allusions to the expedition with Burton, ii. 6, 11, 560, 569, 571; claims Burton's discoveries, 14; honours showered upon, 46, 48; his account of the expedition with Burton, 421-423; Burton's generosity to, 425; they meet at Bath, 426 Spencer, Mr., ii. 156 Spiders in Brazil, i. 428 Spiritualism in London, ii. 136, 137; lines upon, 136; Burton's speech on, 138-151; correspondence in the Times upon, 157-159 Splügen of Somali-land, i. 216 Sport, in Baroda, i. 109; in Damascus, 499. Sporting Truth on Burton, i. 181, 182 Squadron, British, at Trieste, ii. 215, 219; in 1883, 251; in 1887, 349 Stanhope, Lady H, grave of, i. 386, 471 Stanley, Lady, her kindness to the Burtons, ii. 188 Stanley, H., i. 202; compared with Burton, 304; ii. 300; on the Rusizi river, 38; Burton's description of, 392; in Switzerland, 403; his experience of Laurence Oliphant, 425 Stanley, Mrs., obtains an autograph from Sir Richard, ii. 404 Starke, Mrs., i. 42, 45 Staveley, Sir Ch., ii. 79 Steamers, in 1836, i. 53; P. and O., lady passengers on the, ii. 130, 131; Steele, General Sir F., ii. 396 Steingass, Dr., ii. 296 Steinhaüser, Dr., i. 53, 54, 168, 281, 424; ii. 61, 274, 289, 560 Stercky, Abbé, ii. 361, 373 Sterling, Miss, at Chilton, ii. 374 Stewart, Rev. Mr., ii. 404 Stocks, Ellerton, i. 198 Stonor, Mgr., ii. 21 Stories about the Burtons, ii. 3, 394; Storm, dust-, in India, i. 128, 129; in the desert, 472; thunder-, in Brazil, 423, 424 Stourton and Mowbray, Lord, ii. 236 Strangford, Lord (Percy Smythe), i. 232, 243, 347 ii. 540 Strangford, Viscountess (Emily Beaufort), i. 232; her work in Bulgaria, ii. 540 Stratford de Redcliffe, Lord, in the Crimea, i. 225, 231, 232, 234; his appearance, 233, 234; and character, 233, 235, 238, 239; his indifference to the fate of Kars, 242; makes an offer to Burton, 243; his alliance with Schamyl, 243; Christian converts in Syria, 566; lines from "Shadows of the Past," 606 Strauss, ii. 457 Strickland, W., i. 179 n. Strossmayer, Mgr., ii. 276, 349 Stroyan, Lieutenant, i. 198-200, 211; death of, 220-223; ii. 13 Suákin, the position at, Burton's note on the, ii. 366 Sudy Mubárak (Bombay), i. 266, 267, 270, 277, 289 Suez, ii. 54; Lady Burton at, 129-131; the Palmer search-party at, 608 —— Canal, the, opposed by Lord Palmerston, i. 226, 226 n.; annexation of the, ii. 497; 562 —— desert, the, i. 171, 172 Sugar, canes near Fuga Mountains, i. 268; in Persia, ii. 68 n. Sultan of Turkey, the, ii. 512, 545 Sultán el Bahr (a sea-king), i. 219 Suna, ruler of Uganda, i. 310, 311; war-vessels built by, 317, 318 Sunnis in India, ii. 76, 78 "Supernatural Religion," ii. 461 Sur, ii. 54 Surat, i. 139 Surrey County Lunatic Asylum, i. 595 Survey mess, a, i. 144 Swallows, attachment of, ii. 345; Burton's love of, 405, 406; his lines to, 408 Swanzy Estates Co. (gold), ii. 234 Swimming, i. 34 Swinburne, A., Burton's first meeting with, i. 347, 348; a poem by, 459; Burton dedicates, "Camoens" to, ii. 182; his reply, 183; a note to Mrs. Burton, 183; his lines to Burton on the "Arabian Nights," 286; lines by, 411 Swinton, Mr., ii. 529 Switzerland, tours in, ii. 358-362, 365-376, 400-404 Sword exercise, in India, i. 119, 134; at Boulogne, 164, 165 Symonds, Mr. J. A., a short meeting with, ii. 402; on the "Arabian Nights," 618 Syria, excursions in, i. 492; Burton and Drake explore, 495-498; misrule in, 514; ii. 259; ruins between Aleppo and Damascus in, i. 526-528; the Jews in, 530, 533-536; money-lending in, 535, 536; Christian converts in, 547-564; the Government of, 573; after Burton's recall, 583; the future, ii. 548, 549; no progress in, 557 T Takruri, the, ii. 56 Talfita, i. 524 Tancred, i. 249, 253; its effect on Mrs. Burton, 534 n.; ii. 212 Tanga Bay, i. 261 Tanga Island, i. 261 Tangata, i. 262 Tangier, Burton in, ii. 298, 303, 311, 312; hospitality at, 314 Tankaria Bunder, i. 133 Tannali, ii. 81 Tarbes, i. 55 Tasso, Torquato, ii. 559 Taunton, Lady, ii. 401 Tavernier, Mr., on diamonds in India, ii. 525, 526, 532 Tawaf, the, i. 175 Taxis, Princess of, ii. 316 Tayyárah, Kalifat el, i. 173, 174 Tel el-Kebir, ii. 601, 604, 605 Tell Shayhán, i. 513 Teneriffe, climate of, i. 57; yellow fever at, 1863, 379; Peak of, 380, 381; lines on, 523 Tennyson, "Crossing the Bar," ii. 412 Testament, Greek, New and Old, in the Library of Damascus, i. 482, 483 Tete, gold at, i. 366, 367, 371 Tewfik Pasha breaks his father's engagement with Burton, ii. 123, 177 Thackeray, ii. 48 Thakurs, tribes at Mátherán, ii. 104 Thames, expedition on the, ii. 48 Thayer, ii. 348, 381; note to the Tribune by, 357 Thierry, Baron de, i. 23 Thiers, i. 32; ii. 498 Thompson, Ensign, i. 97 Thompson, Dr., his enmity to Burton, i. 572 Thorndike, Rev. Mr., chaplain at Trieste, ii. 253, 343 Thornton, Sir E., i. 419, 425 Thurburn, J., i. 169, 170 Téleki, Count, ii. 329 Téleki, Countess, death of, i. 491 Terry, Miss Ellen, ii. 236 Tiber, Burton's letter on the overflow of the, ii. 21, 22; Mrs. Burton's letter on the, 22, 23 Tiberias, Sea of, i. 543 Tichborne Claimant, the, i. 453; trial, i. 593, 596 Tickell, Thomas, lines by, ii. 412 Tiffin in India, i. 111 Tobelbad, ii. 378 Toblach, ii. 321 Todleben, i. 228 Tongway, Mount, i. 265-267 "Tonic Bitters," Burton's, ii. 44 Torquemada, ii. 112, 461 Torrens, Mr., his edition of the "Arabian Nights," ii. 283, 288 Toulouse, i. 54 Tours, the Burtons in, 1820-30, i. 17-25; English Society in, 17, 18; politics in, 25; Burton revisits, ii. 51 Travancore, legend of a church at, ii. 99 Trachonites, robbers of the, i. 493 Travelling, in France, 1830, i. 25, 26; in French Canada, 1860, 26 Treasure, raising, by magic in Morocco, ii. 147, 148 Treaty between the East India Company and the Nizam of Hyderabad respecting the diamond-mines, ii. 527 n. Trebizonde, ii. 548, 556 Treloar, Mr., a sad visit to, i. 442, 443 Trent, ii. 2 Trial, respecting the cast of Napoleon, i. 10; of General Beatson, i. 247, 247 n. Trieste, Burton appreciated at, i. 252; Jews at, 535; appointed Consul at, 598; ii. 327; journey to, 1 n.; the arrival at, 3, 4; winds in, 5, 18; Burton's houses at, 5, 251, 340, 509; life in, 17; in 1889, 376, 377; politics in, 18; Burton's triends and visitors in, 32, 123, 174, 176, 177; in 1880, 188; in 1883, 246, 247, 271; in 1884, 273, 277; a dangerous night in, 176; earthquake in 1881, 211; British Squadron in, 215-219; an émeute in, 237; the Exhibition at, 237, 238; suicide in, 246, 508; curious laws of house-moving in, 250; Italian regatta at, 253; native food in, 264; ceremony on St. Silvester's night in, 278; tennis in, 281; City of, 340; a church consecrated at, 396; Queen's Jubilee at, 341-344; Burton's last return to, 405; honours shown to Sir R. Burton at his funeral in, 417, 418; mixed population at, 499, 500; harbour of, 505, 506; at the beginning of the century, 508; its towns, 509; prices at, 512; nationality of, 555; a voyage to Alexandria from, 591 Trinity College, Oxford, 1840, i. 70-72 Tripoli, ii. 549, 550 Troglodyte cave, ii. 175 Truth, Mrs. Burton's note to, ii. 215; on Burton's pension, 328 Tuam, i. 397 Tubirih, Bari name of the White Nile, i. 319 n. Tulúl el-Safá, i. 497, 513, 514 Tumbiri river, Dr. Krapf on the, i. 319 n. Tunis, annexed by France, ii. 211; 386; a journey to Algiers from, 389, 390 Tupper, Martin, ii. 177 Tura, i. 324 Turanian Santals on God, ii. 469 Turcomans, i. 501: ii. 56 Turco-Russian Campaign, effects of the, ii. 553 Turkey, the future of, ii. 544, 547, 549, 551, 552; justice in, 545, 546; in Asia, 548; the partition of, 552 Turk Slav, the, ii. 57 Turner's executors, ii. 442 Tyndall, Professor, ii. 471 Tyrol, Austrian, through the, to Bâle, ii. 321, 322 U Uchatius gun, ii. 501 Uganda, i. 310 Ugogi, a journey across, i. 287; game in, 288; discomfort in, 292; a return to, 308 Ujiji, game in, i. 288; the journey to, 299 Ukaranga, the, i. 296 Ukerewe, i. 316 n. 317; other name for Nyanza, 318 Umar i Khayyâm, i. 212; ii. 467, 475 Uncanny incident at Trieste, ii. 275 Union Jack, ii. 177 Unjun, lampblack used in magic, ii. 145, 146 Unum Nirán, cave at, i. 496, 516 "Unwritten Law," the, ii. 374 Unyamwesi, a, guide, i. 292; fever at, 296; first visited by the Arabs, 299 Unyamyembe, Burton approaches, i. 289; journey to Ujiji from, 291; native servants ill at, 293; Burton returns to, 308; Burton and Speke at, ii. 421 Unyoro, i. 310, 317 Urundi Mountains, i. 295, 296, 299 Usagara Mountains, i. 282, 325 Usagozi, i. 295, 308 Usukuma, game in, i. 288; 319 Usumbara, i. 263; watchfire on, 268, 318; trial by ordeal amongst the people of, ii. 587 Uvinza, i. 308 Uvira, i. 302 V Val erga, Mgr., i. 542, 548, 567 Vambéry, M., i. 348, 399; ii. 507, 508 Van Ranke, Mme., i. 64 Vans-Kennedy, General, i. 121, 124, 137, 139 Van Voorst, John, i. 143 n., 159 Varese, ii. 358 Varley, Mr., i. 93 Venice, ii. 2, 3, 19; by moonlight, 31; 32, 52; Geographical Congress held at, 222; in 1885, 281; in 1887, 340, 376, 396 Venus, transit of, ii. 244 Verona, ii. 37 Vesuvius, 1886, ii. 315 Vetturino, travelling ina, i. 39 Vevey, Burton's notes from, ii. 365, 367 Vicenza, ii. 37 Vienna, the Exhibition at, ii. 23, 24; prices during the Exhibition at, 26, 27; in 1889, 381 "Vikram and the Vampire," i. 159; ii. 151 Villach, Austrian Tyrol, ii. 321 Villiers, Mr., ii. 364 Vinco, Don Angelo, i. 320 Vingoria, ii. 105 Vipach, ii. 32 Virgin, a figure cast from the cannon of Sebastopol, i. 460 Visions of Christ appear to Syrian converts, i. 551, 556-568 Vivian, General Sir Hussey, in the Crimea, i. 236, 242; his unfair treatment of Beatson, 245, 247 Vogt, Carl, ii. 469 Volney, ii. 550 Voltaire, ii. 72; at Lausanne, 371 Von Moltke, ii. 72 Voyage, a stormy, to Aden, i. 218, 219 Voysey, Mr., on gems in India, ii. 528 W Wad; el-Bizáras, i. 522 Wady Atnayn, i. 522 Wady Haráwwah, i. 204 Wady el-Nakrah, i. 524 Wale Point, i. 279 Wales, Prince of, at Cannes, ii. 334; during the earthquake on the Riviera, 336 Wales, Princess of, ii. 343 Walkeshwar, a remnant of old India, ii. 99 Wallace, Mr., on Spiritualism, ii. 155 Walne, Dr., i. 362 n. Warburg, Dr., value of his drops in Africa, i. 277, 308, 509 Ward, Mr., at St. Helena, i. 5, 6; his attempt to see Napoleon, 6, 7 Ward, Mr. Leslie, ii. 236 Wardour, ii. 329 Warren, Sir Ch., in search of Palmer, ii. 242, 243, 608, 609, 613; made a K.C.M.G., 244 Wartenstein, ii. 401 Wásá, gold in, i. 368, 371 Wassau Mining Co., report of the, ii. 233, 234 Water, want of, in the desert, i. 215, 479 Waterford, Marquis of, i. 71 Waterton, Canon, ii. 426, 427, 430 Watson, William, lines by, i. 546; on Burton, ii. 419 Watt, General, i. 247 Way, Rev. W., i. 17 Wazaram, i. 280 Wazegura, wilderness of, i. 269; a village of, 272, 273 Wazin, i. 261 Wazira Hills, i. 267 Wedding, a Hindoo, ii. 80, 81 Wednesday, the Moslems' unlucky day, 503 Weights, English and Indian diamond, ii. 524 n. Weixelstein Castle, ii. 168, 169; ghost story of, 170-173 Welby, Mr., ii. 217 Wellington, Duke of, on Napoleon's title at St. Helena, i. 7, 8; forces Colonel Burton to go on half-pay, 17; on Constantinople, ii. 544, 551, 553 Wemyss, Major, i. 236; died, ii. 247 Wenham, Canon, ii. 308, 402; made arrangements for the funeral of Sir Richard, 429, 430; read the funeral service at Monlake, 403, 432, 433 Weranhanja, i. 317 Werne, Mr., i. 319 n. West, Consul, ii. 130 Weyprecht, Lieutenant Karl, ii. 212 White, Cooper, death of, ii. 317 Whitehall Review, on Sir R. Burton, ii. 300 Whitman, Walt, ii. 447 Wiesbaden, i. 83, 85, 86 Wikar ool Umára, ii. 86; his palace, 87, 88 Wilberforce on slavery, i. 358 Wilensi, i. 213 Williams, Sir W., at Kars, i. 242, 243; death of, ii. 253 Williams, Charley, bitten by a snake, i. 454 Wilson, Andrew, i. 4; ii. 51; death of, 215 Wilson, Mr., on gold-mining, i. 374 Wilyankuru district, the, i. 294 Wine, mystic sense of, ii. 467 Wingfield, Fred., i. 227, 229 Wiseman, Cardinal, gives Burton a passport as a Catholic officer, i. 250; ii. 446; arranges Mrs. Burton's marriage, 341 Wood, Sir C., ii. 567, 576 Wood, Sir R., i. 533; ii. 396 Woodpeeker in the desert, i. 203 Wolf-tail, i. 185; ii. 467 Wolseley, Sir Garnet, and Tel el-Kebir, ii. 604 Women's friendship, ii. 483 Worsley, Mr., his wooden railways, ii. 534 Wrede, Prince, ii. 507 Wrestling, i. 134 Wright, Mr., missionary in Syria, i. 501; letter to Burton on ill feeling in Damascus, 503; letter expressing his appreciation of Burton as Consul in Damascus, 537, 538 Würzburg, ii. 2 Wyld, Dr., experiments in Spiritualism by, ii. 155, 156 Wyld, Mr. Gusta vus, at Jeddah, ii. 55, 366, 367, 513 Wyndham, General, i. 241 X Xavier, St. Franeis, at Goa, i. 162; ii. 106, 107; his tomb, 108; his first school in Goa, 109; his mission, 110, 111; his death, 111; canonized, 112 Y Yabrud, i. 523 Yahveh, i. 189 Yambu, i. 173; ii. 55 Yellow fever, in Brazil, i. 431; at Santa Cruz, 379 Yemen merchants at Jeddah, ii. 56 Yombo, i. 293; Burton receives letters at, 308 Young, Captain, ii. 70 Yousouf, Prince, i. 237 Ypsilante, Prince, ii. 512 Yriarte, M. Charles, works of, ii. 513 Yusuf, i. 223 Z Zæo, an accident befalls, ii. 254 Zagázig, ii. 129, 131; the people of, 601; journey to Suez from, 604 Záhid, the, i. 186; ii. 467; Moses the, 471 Zal, ii. 471 Zambesi river, the, i. 296 n., 366, 367 Zamitt, Mme., ii. 174 Zante, ii. 117, 592 Zanzibar, Burton at, i. 257, 258, 327; serving-men in, 281; slaves in, ii. 587 Zayd, Shenf, i. 174, 175 Zayla, Port, i. 200 Zebedáni, i. 500, 504; the Shaykh's son at, 547, 600, 601 Zech, Mr., ii. 220; death of, 244 Zonhwe, Burton's difficulties at, i. 284 Zenobia, statue of, i. 476 Zimbo, i. 365, 365 n. Zimmerman, Mr. and Mrs., ii. 379 Zoo-electricity, Burton's name for Spiritualism, ii. 149-152, 154-156 Zoological Gardens, Burton a traveller at the, ii. 48 Zoroastrians, four ages of the, ii. 472 Zotenberg, Professor, ii. 332, 333, 364, 365. Zungomero, an unhealthy place, i. 282; journey to the Usagára Mountains from, 325, 326 Zurich, ii. 400