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The "Keystone" jacket and dress cutter

THE SYSTEM. (continued 2)

Reading edition

X to S is 3 inches.

L to T is 7¼ inches.

T to U is 2½ inches.

M to V is 12¾ inches.

N to W is 8 inches.

Now form the outlines.

V W is under the knee, K is the seat, and the side J E is the left side.

Sew up U T and then V S to R.

F to P will now sew to C P T of the front.

Sometimes a band is sewn to the waist, but generally the waist is only taped.

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DIA. 79
DIA. 79

90

TROUSERS.

DIAGRAM 80.

The Forepart.—The measures are as follows: Rise 10, Side length 30, Waist 25, Seat 40, Knee 18 and Bottom 17.

Draw line A E, and place from A to C the rise 10 inches.

A to E is the outside length from the waist to the heel.

D is half-way between C and E.

Draw the cross lines.

C to O is ⅓ seat, and O to J is the same.

In the middle between O and J is F.

Square up from F.

N to Z is ½ and ⅛ waist, and the ⅛ is to be taken out as a V between T and U.

Curve from Z to C.

In the middle between A and C draw line B.

E to 5 is ⅙ seat.

Draw the center line from O to 5.

The bottom 6 to L is 7½ inches.

G to 1 is ¼ knee, 4½ inches, and G to 2 is the same.

Connect J with 1 and 1 with L and finish the side-seam.

The Back-part.—J to K is 1¼ inch.

From 6 to 4 is ½ bottom and ½ inch, and L to outside-seam is the same.

Point 3 is ½ inch from 1, and D is ½ inch from 2.

Draw a line from C to I and square up from I to M by point C.

T to M is ¼ seat.

M to Q is ¼ waist plus ⅛ and 2 inches for seams. The ⅛ is to govern the width of the V at X Y.

B to R is 3½ inches.

Shape the outlines.

The opening is on the side.

In measuring let the lady sit in a chair and take the length from the waist to the chair. Then ask her to stand and take the outside length to the heel.

The waist and seat sizes are taken close.

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DIA. 80
DIA. 80

92

BREECHES.

DIAGRAM 81.

The measures are the same as for Diagram 80.

In drafting the rise is the same and the sizes and divisions are placed in the same manner as already explained to obtain the points.

Go down from O to N, an average of 7 inches.

From N to dot is 1 inch.

Draw a line from O through the unlettered dot.

O to G is 14; to H 16, and to the bottom I, is 20 inches.

From 1 to F is 2 inches.

F to M is 7 inches.

G to D is 3½ inches.

G to K is 4 inches.

F to 4 is 2 inches.

The back-seams at knee are ½ inch outside of the front-seams.

The seat line is drawn as before at a right angle with S C; point W is located ¼ waist above Q, and the waist size is applied from W to Z as already explained.

The outlines are now drawn as shown.

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DIA. 81
DIA. 81

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES

Fixed typos; non-standard spelling and dialect retained.

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