CHAP. IV. OF THE DIFFERENT MODES OF CULTIVATING THE PINE APPLE WHICH HAVE BEEN, AND ARE PRACTISED IN BRITAIN BY PRACTICAL GARDENERS. (continued 2)

“With respect to the time for taking off the suckers, it is when the bottom part becomes brown; and they are then easily displaced by the thumb, after having broken down the leaf immediately under them. But, indeed, by the time the fruit is ripe, all suckers of the stem are fit for taking off, though they will sustain no injury by being left on, even for a month, but rather improve, if the stock be healthy, and if it be well watered. Suckers that rise from the root always have fibres, and may be taken off at any time; but, as they are tardy of fruiting, they should not be taken into the stock, unless in a case of necessity.

“Some think it necessary to dry, or win, all crowns and suckers before potting them, and for that purpose lay them on the shelves, &c. of the stove for a week or ten days. By this treatment, they certainly may be hurt, but cannot be improved, provided they have been fully matured before being taken from off the fruit or stocks, and that these have previously had no water for about ten days. They will succeed as well, if planted the hour they are taken off, as if treated in any other way whatever; and I only advise their being laid aside as above, as being a matter of conveniency.”

In preparing the suckers and unstruck crowns for potting, he twists off a few of the bottom leaves, and pares the end of the stump smooth with the knife. “Then fill pots of about three or four inches diameter, and five or six inches deep, (the less for the least, and the large for the largest plants), with very fine, light earth, or with entire vegetable mould of tree leaves, quite to the brim; previously placing an inch of clean gravel in the bottom of each, and observing to lay in the mould loosely. Thrust the large suckers down to within two inches of the gravel, and the small ones and crowns, two inches into the mould; firming them with the thumbs, and dressing off the mould, half an inch below the margin of the pots. Then plunge them into the bark-bed, quite down to, or rather below the brim, especially of the smaller pots. If the pots be placed at the clear distance of three or four inches from each other, according to the sizes of the plants, they will have sufficient room to grow till next shifting.”

The temperature of the nursing-pit in January with fire heat, he keeps as near as possible to 65° mornings and evenings; and in sunshine, on good days, it may be allowed to rise to about 70°. In March from 70° to 80°; and after newly potting and plunging, unstruck crowns and suckers to 80° or 85°.

To save fuel, he covers up the Pine pits when fires are used, every evening after sunset, either with double mats, or with a thick canvas cover, mounted on rollers. This cover he removes by sun-rise in the morning, unless the weather be very severe; in which case he leaves it on during the day. By the judicious use of this cover, he finds “a considerable deal of fuel may be saved.”

As to water, he says, “nurse plants require very little, perhaps once in eight or ten days, or even at greater intervals, if the weather be moist and hazy. It is safer, in winter, to give too little, rather than too much water to Pine-plants; nor should they be watered over head at this season. They should be watered in the forenoon of a sunny day, at this time of the year, in order that any water spilt on the bark, or in the hearts of the plants, may be exhaled by the heat of the sun, and by an extra quantity of air purposely admitted. This precaution, however, is only necessary for the sake of such crowns and suckers as have been struck late last season, and are not very well rooted; such being more apt to damp off than others that are better established.” In summer he supplies water regularly and plentifully once in three days; giving the proper quantity at root, and then a dewing over the leaves. He waters frequently with the drainings of the dunghill.

Air he admits to the nursing-pits every good day. Even in hard frost, when the sun shines, two or three of the lights should be slipped down, to let the rarified air escape at top. After potting unrooted offsets, he gives no air till the heat begin to rise in the bark-bed; but as the plants indicate their having made roots, he gives air during sunshine, so as to keep down the thermometer to 85° or 80°.

Suckers planted in summer he shifts or re-pots in the following March. He says, “Let them be shaked out entirely; the balls be quite reduced; the roots be trimmed of all straggling and decayed fibres; and let them be replaced in the same, or in similar pots. The proper size of pots, however, in which to put crowns and suckers struck last season, is about four inches inside diameter at top, and six inches deep. A little clean gravel should be laid at the bottom of each pot, in order to drain off extra moisture; and this should be observed in the potting of Pine-plants of all sorts. I have generally observed, that if the bark heat be not violent, the plants will push very strong fibres into this stratum of gravel, in which they seem to delight. I therefore generally make it two inches thick in small pots, and three or four in larger ones, less or more, according to their size. From the time I first adopted this mode of potting, I hardly ever had an instance of an unhealthy plant; and this very particular, together with that of keeping the plants always in a mild bottom-heat, is of greater importance in the culture of Pines, than all the other rules that have been given respecting them, out of the ordinary way. The roots of Pines seem to delight in gravel; and I have been careful to introduce it into the mould for plants of all ages. I generally used small sea-gravel, in which was a considerable proportion of shells, or chips of shells, with other particles of a porous nature; and I have uniformly observed the finest fibres cling to these, and often insinuate themselves through the pores, or embrace the rougher particles. Therefore, if sea gravel can be obtained, prefer it; and next, river gravel; but avoid earthy pit gravel, and rather use sharp sand, or a mixture of pounded-stone, chips, and brick-bats. The plants being re-potted, plunge them in the bark-bed again, quite down to the rims of the pots, keeping them perfectly level. Eight or nine inches from centre to centre will be distance sufficient. When they are all placed, give a little aired water, to settle the earth about their roots. This need not be repeated till the heat in the bed rise to the pots, after which, as the plants will now begin to grow freely, they must be watered at the root once in four or five days; and they may have a dewing over head, from the fine rose of a watering-pot, occasionally, if the weather be fine.”

In May, Nicol again shifts, but the plants are not to be shaked out at this time, but are to be shifted, balls entire, into pots of about six inches diameter, and eight inches deep. “If the roots be anywise matted at bottom, or at the sides, they must be carefully singled out; and in potting, be sure that there be no cavity left between the ball and the sides of the new pot. In order the more effectually to prevent which, use a small, blunt-pointed, somewhat wedge-shaped, stick, to trindle in the mould with; observing that it be in a dry state, and be sifted fine; and also to shake the pot well, (potting on a bench or table), the better to settle the earth about the ball. Pots of this size should be filled to within half an inch of their brims, (the balls being covered about an inch with fresh earth), as the whole will settle about as much, and so leave a full inch for holding water, which is enough. In preparing the plants for potting, observe to twist off a few of the bottom leaves, as they always put out fine roots from the lower part of the stem. Also, before letting the plant out of hand, trim off the points of any leaves that may have been bruised or anywise injured in the shifting. Replunge the pots to the brim, as before, observing to keep them quite level, at the distance of fifteen inches from centre to centre of the plants on a medium; then give a little water, which need not be repeated till the heat rise to the pots.”

In November, he shifts such others whose roots have filled their pots, and have become anywise matted. “Examine any you suspect to be so, and let them be shifted into pots of the next size immediately above those they are in; keeping the balls entire, and only singling out the netted fibres at bottom. The rest should be trimmed of any dead leaves at bottom of their stems, and should have a little of the old mould taken from off the surface of the pots; which replace with fresh earth; filling the pots fuller than usual, as but little water will be required till next shifting time in the spring. The whole should then be replaced in the bark-bed as before, and should be plunged quite to the rims of the pots; giving a little water to settle the earth about their roots, which need not be repeated till the heat rise in the bed.”

Plants intended to fruit in the succeeding year, are shifted finally in the August of the year preceding. The plants are again looked over in the February following, and top dressed; but such as are unhealthy, feeble, and do not stand firm in their pots, he shakes out of their balls entirely, and re-pots in the same, or in smaller pots. “Any plants,” he says, “that have already started into fruit, should also be shaken out, and be fresh potted, as above; which, by the check they receive, will keep them back to a better season of ripening, and by the force of fresh earth, make them swell their fruit larger than they otherwise would have done. I have thus new-potted plants, even in flower, with very much success, and have swelled the fruit to a size far beyond my expectations; of which fact any one may easily satisfy himself, by fresh-potting a few plants, and comparing their progress with others treated in the ordinary way. Let the plants be re-plunged to the brim as before, keeping the pots quite level. If the plants be full-sized, and strong, they will require to be set at about twenty inches apart from centre to centre, on a medium. But they should be sorted; the smallest placed in front, and the largest at back, as in arranging plants on a stage, that they may have an equal share of sun and light. As soon as re-placed in the bark-bed, let them have a little water, to settle the earth about their roots.” In May he again top-dresses, “reducing an inch or two of the earth from off the surface, and adding some fresh mould, which will invigorate the plants, cause them to push surface radicles, and so keep them the more firm and steady. This needs not be done, however, to plants whose fruit are nearly ripe; but chiefly to healthy plants new shown in flower, past the flower, or with the fruit about half grown. And with respect to any that are unhealthy, and whose fruit are less than half grown, do not hesitate to shift them, shaking them out, trimming their roots, and retaining only healthy fibres. This is a very great improvement in the culture of Pines, which I formerly practised, have since advised, and have seen followed with much success.”

The temperature of the fruiting-pit is kept at the same degree as that of the succession department in mid-winter. This is from 60° to 65°; but as spring approaches, he rises gradually to 75°, but not allowing the thermometer to pass 80°. From 72° to 75° is his temperature for March and April. In May, June, July, and August, he requires 75° mornings and evenings, and 80° or 85° at noon. In September, after fire-heat becomes necessary, he keeps as nearly to 65° as possible, and in sunshine, by the free admission of air, to about 70° or 72°. In October, November, and December, he lowers the temperature to 60° mornings and evenings, and 65° in sunshine.

Air is admitted at all seasons in fine sunshine weather, and freely, as the fruit approaches to maturity, in order to enhance its flavour.

He gives water seldom in January, and not oftener than once in six or eight days in February. In March, “water may given oftener than heretofore advised, and also in larger quantities; generally a moderate watering at root once in three or four days, and a dewing over head occasionally, to refresh the leaves, and keep them clean from dust. From the time the plants are out of flower, and the fruit begins to swell, water must be applied in a very liberal manner once in two or three days, always giving the necessary quantity at root, and then a dewing over head. Watering to this extent, however, if the fruit be not in too forward a state, will seldom be necessary before the end of the month, or till April.” In April, “water must be given in a plentiful manner, once in two or three days, in order the better to swell off the fruit. The roots have now much to do in sustaining it, and also the suckers, which will be fast advancing in growth. For this reason, water frequently with dunghill-drainings, or with water of dung, soaked on purpose; and after each watering at root, give a dewing over the leaves, as directed above.” In May, June, and July, “from the time the fruit begin to colour, however, begin also to lessen the quantity of water; and towards its being fit for cutting, withhold water entirely, else the flavour will be very much deteriorated. I shall here observe, with respect to the different kinds of Pines, that the Queen and the Sugar-loaf sorts require considerably more water than the King or Havannah, and the Antigua. The difference in the manner of watering should be more particularly attended to as the fruit approach to maturity; as the latter-named kinds are naturally more juicy and watery than the former.” In August, the plants that have done fruiting being removed, the succession stock which replace them are to be watered freely at root, and occasionally dewed over top. In October and November, the waterings are gradually lessened; and in December, once in eight, ten, or twelve days, will be sufficient.

Insects. “If Pine plants,” Nicol observes, “by proper culture, be kept healthy and vigorous, insects will not annoy, but leave them. This fact I have repeatedly proved, both with respect to the Pine, and to other plants that are liable to be affected with the coccus, (the only insect that materially injures the Pine), which seems to delight in disease and decay, as flies do in carrion.

“I have received into my stock, plants covered with the pine-bug, (coccus hesperidum), without the smallest hesitation; made no effort whatever to get rid of them; and by next shifting time, in two or three months, have seen no more of them. This I have not done once, but often; and I have known my brother do the same thing. In short, I never but once in my life have tried any remedy for the bug; and as I was completely successful, I shall here give the recipe, which may safely be applied to Pine plants in any state; but certainly best to crowns and suckers at striking them, or to others in the March shifting, when they are shaked out of their pots at any rate.

“Take soft soap, one pound; flowers of sulphur, one pound; tobacco, half a pound; nux vomica, an ounce; which boil all together in four English gallons of soft water to three, and set it aside to cool. In this liquor immerse the whole plant, after the roots and leaves are trimmed for potting; and this is the whole matter. Plants in any other state, and which are placed in the bark-bed, may safely be watered over head with this liquor; and as the bug harbours most in the angles of the leaves, it stands the better chance of being effectual, on account that it will also there remain longest, and there its sediment will settle. In using it in this latter way, however, if repeated waterings be necessary, the liquor should be reduced in strength by the addition of a third or a fourth part water.

“The brown scaly insect, also a coccus, is often found on the Pine, and other stove plants; but I never could perceive that it does any other injury than dirty them, and so is of less importance than the other species, which eats or corrodes the leaves, in so far as it leaves them full of brown specks or blotches. The above liquor, however, is a remedy for either, and indeed for most insects, on account of its strength, and glutinous nature.

“Ants are also to be found in the Pinery; but I never could observe that they do the plants any harm, though they are generally to be found in the pots, and among the bark. They are most frequently to be met with there, if the coccus be present; and seem to feed on its larvæ, or perhaps on its fæces.”

Fruit produced. He does not state any determinate object as to this subject; if the object be to have large fruit, he says, all suckers of the root and stem must be twisted off; and to retard the progress of fruit that is shown too early, he recommends re-potting the plants in February. He says, “If Pine Apples be not cut soon after they begin to colour, that is, just when the fruit is of a greenish yellow, or straw colour, they fall greatly off in flavour and richness; and that sharp luscious taste so much admired, becomes insipid.”

Sect. IX. Culture of the Pine Apple, by Mr. William Griffin, Gardener to J. C. Girardot, Esq. at Kelham, in Nottinghamshire, and now to Samuel Smith, Esq. of Woodhall, in Hertfordshire.

Mr. Griffin has been a most successful cultivator of the Pine Apple; perhaps more so for the limited means which he possessed at Kelham, than either M’Phail or Baldwin.

Form of House. This is so nearly that of Speechly, that we do not consider it necessary to give the details.

Soil. Mr. Griffin laughs at those who prescribe “many different strange ingredients for composts;” adding, that, “after numerous experiments made with mixtures of deers’, sheeps’, pigeons’, hens’, and rotten stable-dung, with soot, and other manures, in various proportions and combinations with fresh soil of different qualities from pastures and waste lands, I can venture with confidence to recommend the following: Procure from a pasture, or waste land, a quantity of brown, rich, loamy earth, if of a reddish colour the better, but of a fattish mouldy temperature; that by squeezing a handful of it together, and opening your hand, it will readily fall apart again: be cautious not to go deeper than you find it of that pliable texture; likewise procure, if possible, a quantity of deers’-dung: if none can be conveniently got, sheeps’-dung will do, and a quantity of swines’-dung. Let the above three sorts be brought to some convenient place, and laid up in three different heaps ridge-ways, for at least six months; and then mix them in the following manner, covering the dung with a little soil before it is mixed: four wheelbarrows of the above earth; one barrow of sheep’s-dung, and two barrows of swine’s-dung. This composition,” he adds, “if carefully and properly prepared, will answer every purpose for the growth of Pine-plants of every age and kind. It is necessary that it should remain a year before applied to use, that it may receive the advantage of the summer’s sun and winter’s frost; and it need not be screened or sifted before using, but only well broken with the hands and spade, as when finely sifted it becomes too compact for the roots of the plants.”

General management. In rearing the young plants, he generally plants the crowns in the bark till they have struck root; but the suckers he pots at once, unless they are small and green at bottom, when he treats them like the crowns. The pots he uses for both crowns and suckers are five inches diameter, and four inches deep, unless the suckers are very strong, when he puts them in pots seven inches and a quarter wide, by six and a half inches deep. The plants are shifted in the March following into pots nine inches in diameter, by eight inches deep, “turning each singly out of its present pot, with a ball of earth entire around its roots, unless any appear unhealthy or any ways defective, when it is eligible to shake the earth from the roots, and trim off all the parts that appear not alive. He plunges them in the bark (refreshed as at each shifting) eighteen inches from plant to plant in the row, and twenty inches distance row from row.”

Mr. Griffin shifts for the last time in the October of the year preceding them in which the fruit is expected; the pots he uses are twelve inches in diameter, and ten inches deep. He plunges them in the bark-bed, about twenty inches plant from plant, and two feet distance from row to row. He says, “place the first row eighteen inches from the kirb, angling them in the rows as you go on.”

It is of some consequence to remark, that Griffin’s practice in not divesting the plants at any one shifting of their balls of earth, differs from that of Speechly, Nicol, and most other practitioners, excepting Baldwin. It appears highly probable, that by not disturbing the balls of healthy plants, they will produce their fruit both earlier and of a larger size; for the cutting off the roots must produce a check in the growth of the plant, and their renewal must occupy its chief energies for some time, and thus lessen the vigour of the leaves; since the leaves and roots of all plants assist each other alternately as occasion requires.

Those who advocate the practice of shaking off the balls of earth, and cutting off the roots of Pines in the second year’s spring shifting, say, that though, at first sight, it has an unnatural appearance, yet, on more minute enquiry, it will be found congenial to nature. In the first place, they say that they only cut away the lower decaying roots, and preserve all the others, unless they are bruised by the shaking off the ball; or injured by disease, or otherwise. In the next place, they state, that on attentively examining the Pine-plant, it will be found, that, in its mode of rooting, it may be classed with the strawberry, vine, and crowfoot, which throw out fresh roots every year, in part among, but chiefly above, the old ones. This done, the old ones become torpid and decay, and to cut them clear away, if it could be done in all plants of this habit, would, it is said, be assisting nature, and contribute to the growth of the new roots. At the same time, it is to be observed, that encouraging, in any extraordinary degree, the production of roots, though it will ultimately increase the vigour of the herb and fruit, will retard their progress to maturity.

Speechly has the following judicious observations in allusion to those who recommend always shifting with the balls entire.

“First, It is observable, that the Pine-plant begins to make its roots at the very bottom of the stem, and as the plant increases in size, fresh roots are produced from the stem, still higher and higher; and the bottom roots die in proportion: so that, if a plant in the greatest vigour be turned out of its pot as soon as the fruit is cut, there will be found at the bottom a part of the stem, several inches in length, naked, destitute of roots, and smooth: now, according to the above method, the whole of the roots which the plant produces being permitted to remain on the stem to the last, the old roots decay and turn mouldy, to the great detriment of those afterwards produced.

“Secondly, The first ball which remains with the plant full two years, by length of time will become hard, cloddy, and exhausted of its nourishment, and must, therefore, prevent the roots afterwards produced from growing with that freedom and vigour, which they would do in fresher and better mould.

“Thirdly, The old ball continually remaining after the frequent shiftings, it will be too large when put into the fruiting-pot, to admit of a sufficient quantity of fresh mould to support the plant till its fruit becomes ripe, which is generally a whole year from the last time of shifting.”

In giving air and water, Mr. Griffin differs nothing from Nicol; he waters moderately in winter, and more liberally in the growing season, from March till October; want of water to keep the plants moist, he considers one of the reasons of their showing fruit prematurely. He never waters over the leaves in any stage, nor gives much at the roots in damp weather.

With respect to temperature, this author differs from most others who have written on the Pine, but not from many very successful practitioners. He recommends 60° as the heat proper for the Pine in every stage, not exceeding five or six degrees over or under. The bottom heat, which he considers proper, is from 90° to 100°. Treatise on the Pine Apple, p. 60. and 66.

Insects. After many trials and experiments, he found the following the most effectual wash for destroying insects on Pines:—

“To one gallon of soft rain-water, add eight ounces of soft green soap, one ounce of tobacco, and three table spoonfuls of turpentine; stir and mix them well together in a watering-pot, and let them stand for a day or two. When you are going to use this mixture, stir and mix it well again, then strain it through a thin cloth. If the fruit only is infested, dash the mixture over the crown and fruit, with a squirt, until all is fairly wet; and what runs down the stem of the fruit will kill all the insects that are amongst the bottom of the leaves. When young plants are infested, take them out of their pots, and shaking all the earth from the roots, (tying the leaves of the largest plants together,) and plunge them into the above mixture, keeping every part covered for the space of five minutes; then take them out, and set them on a clean place, with their tops declining downwards, for the mixture to drain out of their centre. When the plants are dry, put them into smaller pots than before, and plunge them into the bark-bed.”

Fruit produced. Mr. Griffin’s object seems to have been to produce large fruit in the proper season. In the year 1802, when gardener to J. C. Girardot, Esq. at Kelham, near Nottingham, he cut twenty Queen Pines, which weighed together eighty-seven pounds seven ounces. In 1803, one weighing five pounds three ounces. In July, 1804, one of the New Providence kind, weighing seven pounds two ounces. In August, 1804, one of the same kind, weighing nine pounds three ounces. And in 1805, he cut twenty-two Queen Pines, which weighed together one hundred and eighteen pounds three ounces.

Sect. X. Culture of the Pine Apple, by Mr. Thomas Baldwin, Gardener to the Marquis of Hertford, at Ragley, in Warwickshire, from 1805 to the present time.

Mr. Baldwin is reputed the first Pine cultivator in England; he has given some account of his practice in a tract of a few pages, which, being sold much above the usual price of printed books, never obtained so much circulation as manuscript copies of it, which were handed about among the principal Pine-growers near London.

11

Form of House. The succession, or nursing pits, according to Mr. Baldwin’s plan (fig. 11.), in which the young plants are to remain both winter and summer, should be constructed of timber, seven feet wide, and seven feet three inches high at the back, the front being in the same proportion. The method of preparing the bed is as follows:—“Sink your pit (2.) three feet three inches deep, as long as you require, and sufficiently broad to admit of linings on each side (1, 1.); make a good drain at the bottom of the pit to keep it dry; then set posts, about the dimensions of six inches square, in the pit, at convenient distances, (say about the width of the top lights,) and case it round with one inch and a half deal wrought boards, above the surface, and below with any inferior boards or planks. The dimensions of my succession-bed or frame, are thirty-nine feet long, and seven feet wide; containing two hundred and seventy-three square feet, which will hold three hundred and fifty suckers, from the end of September till the seventh of April.”

Soil. “From old pasture or meadow ground strip off the turf, and dig to the depth of six or eight inches, according to the goodness of the soil; draw the whole together to some convenient place, and mix it with one-half of good rotten dung; frequently turn it over for twelve months, and it will be fit for use. This is the only compost dung for young and old plants.”

General management. The general practice of Mr. Baldwin is to take the suckers from the fruiting plants about the end of September, and lay them in a warm place for about three days; he then pulls off a few of their bottom leaves, which makes them ready for planting. “In making your bed,” he says, “lay three-fourths of new tan at the bottom of the pit, and lay old tan upon that, to reach within three inches of the top; on the surface of this sift old tan to the thickness of three inches, beating it down well with the spade, then plant the suckers in the tan about four or five inches apart, according to the size of the plants, placing the tallest in the backside of the frame, and the shortest in the front. In this situation let them remain till the month of April following; then take up the plants out of the tan-bed, and divest them of all their root; and remember that at any future transplanting the roots must not be taken off. Plant them in pots of five, six, and seven inches diameter, according to the size of the plants, but before planting let the pots be filled with the prepared compost already mentioned. About the middle of June following, when the pots are beginning to be filled with roots, take out the plants with their balls whole, and plant them in pots about nine inches in diameter, being filled with the same rich compost, replanting them into the bed, and let them remain there till the end of September. Be careful at each transplanting, while the plants are out of the beds, to have the beds put into a proper state by the addition of fresh tan, &c.

“When the plants are out of the stoves in the month of September, prepare the pits in the same manner as directed for the succession-beds, with three-fourths of new tan at the bottom, &c.; then shift the plants into pots about fourteen inches diameter at the top, and plant them at suitable distances for fruiting; plunge the pots at first halfway into the tan, till the heat diminishes to a safe temperature, then fill up the interstices between the pots with tan, and as the plants are now stationed, let them so remain till they are fruited off for the table. The plants, young and old, had best be near the glass, and small stoves are to be preferred, because they require less fire. The glass should be closely puttied, to keep out the cold air, and to retain the warm.

“The fruiting-house during the winter should be kept at about seventy of Fahrenheit’s scale. It may be left in the evening about seventy-five, and it will be found in the morning about sixty-five, so that no attendance during the night will be necessary.

“There should be no water given to the young suckers from September till April, while they remain in the tan without pots. After they are potted they require to be watered two or three times a week during the summer, according as the temperature may be. When they are removed into the fruiting-house in September, they should be watered cautiously till towards February, and as the spring advances they will require a large supply. Never water the plants in the common broad-cast method, over their heads and leaves.

“Give air in the stoves and frames, both in summer and winter, when the weather will permit, from the back and ends, but not from the roof.

“Expeditious cultivation. The New Providence, Black Antigua, Jamaica, and Enville, and the other large sorts of Ananas, will require the cultivation of three years to bring them to perfection, but the Old Queen and the Ripley’s New Queen may be brought to perfection in fifteen months. To effect this, it must be observed, that some of the plants will fruit in February, or the beginning of March, and consequently that the suckers may be taken off in June, or the beginning of July; make then a good bed of tan with linings of litter round the outside to keep in the tan; make the bed to fit a large melon frame; put the suckers into pots of about nine inches diameter, filled with the compost; plunge them into the bed prepared in regular order, and throw a mat over them in hot weather for shade till they have taken root; let them remain till the end of September, and then shift them into pots of about twelve inches diameter, and plunge them in the fruiting-house.” He has had fine crops of Pines raised from these suckers, many of them four pounds each, from plants only fifteen months old. “This method, in point both of time and expence, has greatly the advantage of the common plan of raising Pines in three years by fires, when the fruit at last is frequently small and ill-flavoured.”

“It is a peculiar recommendation of this plan, that the plants reared in frames without fire, the first year seldom or never run to fruit; whereas, on the contrary, when stoves are used first for a nursery for young plants, and next for succession plants, and lastly, for plants for the fruiting-house, it is seldom that one-third of the plants come to the forcing-house, because so many of them have run to fruit; and even those that stand are necessarily dried and stunted, being subjected to the attacks of various insects; not to mention the enormous care and expence attendant upon a three years’ cultivation. The above appears to me to be the most easy and economical plan to raise Pines; one-third of the coals are sufficient, and less than one-half of the labour and buildings required for that purpose.” Culture of the Ananas, p. 28.

Insects. After, as usual, many fruitless attempts, he at last discovered the following method: “Take horse-dung from the stable, the fresher the better, sufficient to make a hot-bed three feet high, to receive a melon frame three feet deep at the back; put on the frame and lights immediately, and cover the whole with mats to bring up the heat. When the bed is at the strongest heat, take some faggots, open them, and spread the sticks over the surface of the bed on the dung, so as to keep the plants from being scorched; set the plants or suckers bottom uppermost on the sticks; shut down your lights quite close, and cover them over well with double mats, to keep in the steam. Let the plants remain in this state one hour, then take out the plants and wash them in cold water previously brought to the side of your bed, set them in a dry place with their tops downwards to drain, and afterwards plant them. This treatment is sure to kill every insect. You will observe likewise, that if your suckers are kept in the frames all the winter, stuck in the tan without soil or fire, the effluvia from the linings are sure to kill all the bugs.” Culture of the Ananas, p. 33.

Fruit Produced. The general crop is produced in the usual season, viz. from June to September, or October; but some are produced every month in the year. The large sorts, as the New Providence, &c. require three years to bring them to perfection, but the Old Queen, and Ripley’s New Queen, may be brought to perfection in three months; though from the circumstances requisite to render this practicable, viz. plants fruiting in February, or the beginning of March, it must be considered more a matter of accident or curiosity than of any real advantage. It is evident, at all events, that it can never become general; for certainly no gardener would desire all his plants to come into fruit in February or March. Mr. Baldwin grows his fruit to a very considerable size even when produced in so short a period. “At a meeting of the Horticultural Society of London, held in October, 1817, T. Baldwin, gardener to the Marquis of Hertford, at Ragley, presented a Queen Pine of great beauty and superior flavor. It measured sixteen inches in circumference, seven inches in length, and weighed four pounds. The plant on which it was produced was little more than fifteen months old.” Hort. Tr. vol. iii. p. 118.

Remarks. The following judicious remarks on Mr. Baldwin’s plan are by Mr. M’Phail. “Mr. Baldwin’s method,” he says, “appears to differ nothing in principle from the methods I practised; but we differ a little in practice, that is, in the manner of the application of the elements necessary to make the plants grow fast and vigorous, and to produce fine fruit; and likewise in the mode of disrooting and planting, which difference I conceive to be of little consequence. He grows his plants in good earth, enriched with plenty of well-rotted manure. He keeps the plants in a strong heat, and gives their roots plenty of water. He sets his fruiting plants in a bed of tan in the month of September, and there it appears they are stationed till the fruit be ripened the following summer. Now, I think, a bed made up in September, is not able to retain a sufficient heat for the growth of the Pine Apple plant for so long a period of time.

“Once, by way of experiment, in a small hot-house, I made up a bed in the pit of it in the month of October, and laid upon the surface of the bed one foot thick of good earth, and turned out of their pots fine Pine Apple plants, intended to fruit the succeeding year, and I set the plants into the earth on the surface of the bed with the balls of earth about their roots undisturbed. In this situation they grew exceedingly well, and shewed fruit very strong, but the heat in the bed under them became too faint in the month of April: and with all the atmospherical heat that I could give them, the fruit did not ripen well for want of heat to the roots of the plants; and I was not able to contrive any method to recruit it, which required to be done in the month of March or April.

“According to the foregoing account, this celebrated and experienced gardener plants the suckers of the Pine Apple in the latter end of September, and he divests them of all their roots in the month of April. In this method of process I must differ from him, because the young plants have only six months (being the slowest growing months of the year) to make roots, and then these roots are entirely cut off, which considerably retards the plants in their growth. And, according to his method, and mine also, the queen and some other sorts of the Pine, ripen their fruit in a shorter period of time than two years after planting. He says, he never waters his Pine plants in the broad-cast way over their heads and leaves. In this I also differ with him, for I think, giving the plants water all over their leaves occasionally, especially in hot weather, is of service to them, and which indeed is only imitating nature.

“I say not that Pine Apple plants will not do well without giving them water all over their leaves, for if hot-houses be kept in a good state of temperature for the growth of the Pine Apple, the great evaporation of the tan-bed, and of the moist earth about the roots of the plants, may supply the leaves sufficiently with water, especially in houses managed in the way this real practical gardener says he manages his Pine plants; that is, his hot-houses are very close, and he admits no air at the roof, so that the moist air which ascends up is thrown back among the plants. I would here remark, that when Pine Apple plants are watered all over their leaves when in fruit, the water should not be suffered to stand long in the heart of the crowns on the fruit, which it will seldom do if the heat in the house be good, but with a little care the plants may be watered all over their leaves, without letting it fall on the fruit, or the crowns of them.

“He recommends that beds for the culture of the Pine Apple be built of wood: excepting it be oak, which is dear, other sorts of timber will not last long in such a situation; and therefore, for this and other reasons, (given in Section VII. page 67), I think beds built of brick, in a similar way to the one I invented, are preferable, and in the end cheaper than those of wood.

“With regard to the method which this gardener useth to destroy insects on Pine Apple plants, it is a troublesome operation, and can be practised only on young plants, and indeed, according to his own account, insects on the Pine Apple may be destroyed in the course of their culture, which coincides exactly with the methods I used and recommend to be carried into practice by those who have the management of Pine Apple plants, and are troubled with insects. I have no doubt but his method of laying young plants in a hot-bed of rank dung, will effectually destroy the insects, though I think, however, they had best remain in the bed longer than one hour; but perhaps remaining even an hour, or a longer time, in such a dreadful situation, where I conceive no animal could long exist, might hurt the plants, if not destroy them. But let it be remembered, that if Pine plants be perfectly free of insects, if they are put into a hot-house where the scale or the bug insects are in the tan, or in any part of the house, the insects will find their way to creep to the Pines and breed upon them; for these insects are natural to the plant.”

Sect. XI. Culture of the Pine Apple as given in Abercrombie’s Practical Gardener, edited by Mr. James Mean, head gardener to Sir Abraham Hume, Bart. at Wormleybury, in Hertfordshire.

The culture of the Pine Apple was given by John Abercrombie, in his “Every man his own Gardener,” when that work was originally published in 1780; but we prefer taking it from the work above cited, as giving the modern practice. It is proper to observe, however, that the directions in the “Practical Gardener” are much less to be depended on than those given by M’Phail and Baldwin; for as the first of these authors observes, in his preface to the Gardener’s Remembrancer, the Practical Gardener has been evidently dressed up, and in some parts rather affectedly, by some man who knew little of the practice of gardening. As to what Mr. Mean may have done in revising the book, it is more certain that he has not done enough, than that he has done any thing, for there are many passages, besides those pointed out by M’Phail, that appear quite ridiculous as coming from a practical gardener. Notwithstanding these faults, however, which would have escaped unnoticed in a less valuable book, “The Practical Gardener” is the best book of its kind extant.

Form of House. “The fruiting-house,” he says, “need not be higher than five feet in front, and eight feet six inches at the back wall; or, whatever be the breadth of the house, the difference between the height in front and in rear, need not exceed one-third of the breadth.” By this means the chamber of air to be heated will be materially reduced. To give a full command over the temperature of this air, let the lappings of the panes of glass be closed with putty.

The roof of the succession-house may be four or six inches lower than that of the fruiting-house; and the roof of the nursing-pit may be a foot lower than that of the fruiting-house.

Soil. The soil recommended is nearly the same as that used by Nicol. It consists of:—“1. Vegetable mould; 2. The top-spit earth from an upland pasture, loamy, friable, and well reduced; 3. Hard-fed dung, rotted and mellowed by at least a year’s preparation; 4. Small, pearly river-gravel; 5. White sea-sand; 6. Shell-marl.

“If no vegetable mould has been provided, light rich earth, from a fallowed part of the kitchen garden, may be substituted: there is no difference of any account between one and the other, further than this: The vegetable mould is sure to be virgin earth, from which no aliment has been extracted; the mould from the kitchen garden, however you may trench, and rest, and enrich it, cannot but contain many particles which have given out their fertilizing qualities to previous crops. Dung perfectly decomposed comes to the same thing as vegetable mould; therefore that one of them which is most attainable, or best prepared, may fitly serve instead of the other.

“Of the first three take equal quantities; making three-fourths of the intended compost. Constitute the remaining fourth thus: Let river-gravel, sea-sand, and shell-marl, furnish each a twelfth part. The small gravel is to afford something for the roots to lay hold of; the sea-sand, to promote lightness and dryness; the shell-marl, the better to support the growth of fibres and integuments and parts not pulpy. Mix with the whole a fortieth part soot, to offend and repel worms. Incorporate the ingredients fully; and turn the heap two or three times before using it.”

General management. “As soon as either crowns or suckers are detached from the parent plant, directions are given to twist off some of the leaves about the base; the vacancy, thus made, at the bottom of the stem, is to favour the emission of roots. Pare the stump smooth; then lay the intended plants on a shelf in a shaded part of the stove, or of the green-house, or of any dry apartment. Let crowns and fruit off-sets lie till the part that adhered to the fruit is perfectly healed; and root-suckers, in the same manner, till the part which was united to the old stock is become dry and firm. They will be fit to plant in five or six days. As to the prolonged period for which they may remain out of culture: Pine-plants have been kept six months without mould, in a moderately warm dry state, and the only injury has been loss of time. Crowns or suckers coming off before Michaelmas should be planted without any unnecessary delay, to get established before, the winter. When late-fruiting plants do not afford off-sets till after Michaelmas, it is best to keep them in a dormant state during the months least favourable to artificial culture: therefore, as you obtain these late off-sets, hang them up in the house, not too near the flues, to rest till March.”

Insects. Mr. Nicol’s method, and also that by M’Phail, are both quoted with approbation. The following wash is directed to be applied exclusively to the building, and by no means to the plants. “At the annual cleansing of the house, if insects are supposed to breed in the building, introduce the wash with a brush into the cracks and joints of the wood-work, and the crevices of the wall.

Recipe for the Wash. “Of sulphur vivum take 2 oz. soft soap, 4 oz. Make these into a lather, mixed with a gallon of water that has been poured in a boiling state upon a pound of mercury. The mercury will last, to medicate fresh quantities of water, almost perpetually.”

Fruit produced. To ripen eminently large fruit, he directs the removal or destruction of suckers; to retard the progress of fruit that have appeared too early, he shifts in Nicol’s manner; and when fruit is ripening too fast, or too many advancing to a ripe state together, he retards a part of the plants by setting them into a dry airy place, affording both shade and shelter. “Give no water as long as you wish to suspend their progress. For the same purpose, others may be set out green; but whilst the excitement of these is lowered, they must be kept in a growing state.” Practical Gardener, 643.

Sect. XII. Culture of the Pine Apple by Mr. James Andrews, commercial gardener, Vauxhall.

Mr. Andrews has been considered the best grower of Pines in the neighbourhood of London for many years; his principal object is to grow fruit for the market; but the demand for the plants by private gardeners, and others, has generally been so great, that he can seldom keep the plants till the last stage of their growth.

Form of House. Both pits and larger houses are used; but there is nothing particular in the form of either. Mr. Andrews seldom erects new work, but generally purchases old hot-houses and sashes at the sales of decayed gentlemen, or bankrupt tradesmen. In this respect he follows the practice of Mr. Lee of Hammersmith, and both have generally a stock of old sashes and rafters on hand ready to put up when wanted. But though the form of Mr. Andrews’ houses may be said to be in a great degree matter of accident, yet the arrangement of the flues within is his own. These generally enter at the front corner of one end, pass to the opposite end, return along the back wall, where they sometimes serve as a path, and at other times are placed at one side of the path, occasionally a return is made, and the chimney-top is formed in the back wall, at the opposite end to that in which the fire enters; when this is not the case, the smoke passes off by the back wall at the same end. The width of the pit depends on the room left by the flue; to increase it no path is formed at the ends or in front, and that along the back wall does not exceed two feet in width. The depth of the pits is from two feet and a half to three feet deep, and their distance from the glass from four to six feet. Vines are trained up the rafters and over the back path. The sashes in front open in various ways, and air is given by them, and by the sliding sashes of the roof. On the whole, Mr. Andrews’ best houses greatly resemble those of Mr. Gunter, to be described in the following section.

In the pits there is nothing uncommon in the construction; they are, in general, sunk deep in the ground, which being dry at bottom, is a great saving of heat. In some the tan is enclosed by brick walls, in others by a frame of wood; some are without flues, but the greater number have a flue in front, or a steam tube, or both.

In the year 1817, Mr. Andrews tried the effect of steam, and was so much satisfied with it, that in the following year, he put up an extensive apparatus in the centre of his forcing department, from which branch-pipes proceed in all directions, and heat the air in the whole of his hot-houses, pits, and frames.

Soil. As near as possible that of Baldwin’s, or M’Phail’s;—a rich loam, rendered sufficiently free by coarse sand, to admit the ready passage of the water.

General management. The crowns and suckers, when they are detached at irregular seasons, as in winter, or very early in spring, are planted in any spare corner of the bark bed, till a number is collected, when they are planted in pots, according to their sizes, and plunged in common hot-beds, or pits. Mr. Andrews has no particular months for shifting, no fixed sizes of pots, and no predetermined manipulation as to shaking the plants out of their balls, or otherwise. He is present at every operation himself, and acts as the case requires. He encourages forward plants, by giving them larger pots than the rest; sometimes he looks over the nursing-pits, and selects the most vigorous plants, shifts them, and puts them into a stronger heat, leaving the others for some weeks longer: the balls of earth he does not disturb, if they do not appear hard, the roots injured, or the plant enfeebled. Sometimes he takes off the bottom of the ball, and the bottom roots, paring off any part of the stump of the plant which may appear decaying; at other times, he contents himself with removing the surface-mould, and top-dressing. In general, he places the plants somewhat deeper in the pots at each shifting.

The plants which he removes to the fruiting-houses are shifted, for the last time, about nine months before the fruit is expected; their pots are generally twelve or fourteen inches in diameter; but not of the usual proportion in depth, to lessen the risk of overheating from the tan. The depth is generally the same as the width. The pots are plunged up to their rims, unless the heat be very violent, and are liberally supplied with heat, air, and water. Mr. Andrews does not fear 90° or 100° degrees of heat in the bark bed, even when the air of the house by fire-heat is not above 60° or 65°. In summer, he allows the thermometer to rise to 90° or a 100° before he gives air, and he often leaves some at the top-lights all night.

Insects. On this subject nothing new can be gathered from the practice of Mr. Andrews, for he has never had any worth destroying by a regular process. His practice affords an ample proof that regimen and cleanliness will never allow insects to increase to an injurious degree.

Fruit produced. We have already noticed the circumstance of Mr. Andrews’ plants being often sold before they arrive at the stage for fruiting. His stock, however, has been lately greatly increased by the erection of additional houses, and the easy mode of heating them from the steam apparatus; he now, therefore, sends a number to market, and chiefly in the winter season, and early in spring, when the price is highest. Their fruit weigh from one to four pounds, and are almost exclusively of the Queen Pine.

Sect. XIII. Culture of the Pine Apple, as practised by Mr. Gunter, at Earlscourt, near Kensington; Mr. Grange, at Kingsland; and Mr. Wilmot, of Isleworth.

The family of Mr. Gunter have long possessed the very extensive gardens of Earlscourt, and grown in them kitchen vegetables, excellent hardy fruits, and melons, for the London market; but it is only within the last seven years that they have commenced the culture of the Pine Apple for the same purpose. This Mr. R. Gunter has done on the most liberal and extensive scale, and with great and merited success.

Form of House. Like Mr. Andrews, Mr. Gunter uses both pits and large houses; in the pits he both nurses the plants, and fruits them, and in the large houses he fruits the Pine Apple, and produces very early grapes at the same time.

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The large houses (fig. 12.) are, in what may be called the usual form; they differ from M’Phail’s, and the houses built by Speechly, and originally by Nicol, in not having a path in front; and from those of Mr. Aiton, erected in the royal gardens at Kensington, in the pit being farther from the glass. They are about fourteen feet wide inside measure; the pit is ten feet three inches wide, three feet deep, three and a half feet from the glass in front (a), and about six feet and a half behind (b). The back path (c) is a border regularly dug and manured, to encourage the roots of the vines, which pass under the bark bed to the front border. Each house is forty feet long, and has a flue proceeding from the back wall to the front, and along the front to the opposite end, returning to the back wall in the usual manner. As the houses are all heated by steam, however, these flues are erected merely by way of security, in case of any accident happening to the boiler or the pipes (d, e), and are therefore seldom used. Besides the vines trained over the back path, there are others which are led up the rafters; both root into excellent soil, and their shoots are withdrawn in autumn to give them three months’ rest in the open air. Those at the back wall are withdrawn through an opening in the angle of the upper sash; those in front through an angle of the front sash.

The pits are sunk in the ground to the sill of the sashes in front, and within eighteen inches, or two feet of the sill behind. In all of them, the tan is inclosed by brick walls; they are generally about seven feet wide within walls, but some are as wide as fourteen feet, with the front wall six inches above ground, and the back wall two feet ten inches. The sashes in these broad pits are in two lengths, as in hot-house roofs; none of them have any flues, being all heated together, with the hot-houses, and various other descriptions of pits, by an extensive steam apparatus. This apparatus was erected by Mr. Mainwaring, of Blackfriars, and is one of the most complete of its kind, excepting in the circumstance of the steam-pipes having what are technically called spigott and faucet joints, which, it is alleged, are more apt, by their contraction and expansion, to allow the escape of the steam than the flanched joints. The advantage of the former mode of jointing is, that the steam-tube contracts and expands in parts; and, of course, that this contraction and expansion must be very trifling on every part; whereas, when iron tubes are joined by flanches, they become, in effect, one tube; and the contraction, or expansion, takes place throughout their whole length.

Soil. Good garden earth, enriched with well-rotted hot-bed dung; the soil of the open garden at Earlscourt, is a rich black loam, and seems to suit the Pine Apple as well as virgin earth brought from a distance.

General management. Much the same as that of Mr. Andrews. Mr. Gunter tried to substitute the heat of steam for that of tan, as a bottom heat, but did not succeed. He formed a chamber, or vacuity of about six inches in depth, and covered it with perforated oak-plank; on this he placed the earth, in which, in some cases, he turned the plants out of the pots; and, in others, plunged the pots in the earth, or in rotten tan. The steam was admitted to fill the chamber; the quantity of heat imparted to the earth was very great, but, contrary to his expectation, no vapour ascended into the mould, which became excessively dry and husky; nor was he able, by frequent waterings, to keep it in a state fit for vegetation; the roots of the plants in it, in spite of every precaution, become shrivelled and dry.

Insects. None of any consequence have yet appeared at Earlscourt, nor is it likely they will ever become numerous there, while steam is used. Were they to become ever so abundant, keeping the air of the house filled with steam for two or three days together, would effectually destroy them.

Fruit produced. The object of every commercial gardener is to have some fruit ripening in every month of the year, but especially in winter, when the price is high. In summer great numbers are imported, or sent in from the hired-out gardens of country gentlemen, which greatly reduces the market value below the real value, or actual cost of production.

The Pine Apple is extensively cultivated by Mr. Grange, of Kingsland, and Mr. Wilmot, of Isleworth, in nearly the same manner as by Mr. Andrews and Mr. Gunter. Those of Mr. Wilmot’s are, at present, in the most luxuriant and prosperous state; Mr. Grange’s are also in a very respectable condition. In both, the plants are grown and fruited in pits, and larger houses, which resemble those of Earlscourt (fig. 12.) as nearly as possible; in both, also, the heat is communicated by steam.

Sect. XIV. Culture of the Pine Apple, by Mr. Isaac Oldacre, gardener to Lady Banks, at Spring-grove, Middlesex.

Mr. Oldacre is an excellent kitchen-gardener, and an ingenious and curious man. He was several years head-gardener at one of the Emperor of Russia’s residences near Petersburg, and has the merit of having introduced from that country, the German mode of rearing mushrooms. Having returned to this country about the year 1813, for his health, he some years afterwards became gardener to Sir Joseph Banks, in whose gardens he has cultivated the Pine Apple with moderately good success, and we have introduced this Section on purpose to notice some peculiarities of treatment which he adopts, and some strange opinions which he holds, or lately held.

Form of House. The plants are brought forward in dung, or tan-frames, or hot-beds, and also in flued-pits; but generally fruited in houses combining the culture of the Vine and the Pine. Mr. Oldacre has two of these houses, one is built of timber, in the usual way, (fig. 13.) and the other is of the same form, but roofed with copper sashes. A full command over the air of these houses is obtained by the returns made by the flue in the back path (a); the curb of the pit is about three feet from the glass in front (b); and about five feet from it behind (c); vines are trained up the rafters, but none are grown in the back path (e), which is paved.

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In addition to the flues, steam is also employed as a medium of communicating heat. But the apparatus was erected chiefly as matter of patriotism, when steam first came in vogue, and is on a very imperfect plan, and of little real use. The boilers are placed over the furnaces, and the same fire which heats the water of the boiler, passes along the flue; the steam tube of the boiler is laid on the top of the flue, and extends no farther than it extends. It is evident, therefore, that scarcely any advantage can result from the use of the boiler, unless it be that the heat is thus sent more effectually to the opposite end of the house to that at which the fire enters, or that the vapour is very readily admitted from the steam-pipe to fill the air of the house. None of these advantages, however, will compensate the expense of the apparatus; the first is hardly wanted where houses are placed in a connected range, as the two outside ends of the houses are kept warm by the flues entering there; and in the other houses a warm end is placed against a cold one.

Soil. At first, Mr. Oldacre used good sound loam and dung, with a little sand, when he found it necessary; but he has for the last four years grown his fruiting plants chiefly in powdered bones, in which he thinks they thrive better, and produce more highly-flavoured fruit. We have not, however, been able to discover any thing in the appearance of either fruit or plants, to lead us to suppose that powdered bones are more congenial to the Pine plant than good loam and dung; his plants are certainly not equal to Mr. Baldwin’s, nor superior to those grown by Mr. Andrews, or Mr. Aiton. We, therefore, consider their thriving in this compost a proof more of the hardy nature of the Pine, than of any thing else; we have no doubt it would grow in powdered granite, or coal, or almost any powder, not even excepting gunpowder, if a due proportion of well-rotted manure were added, and water, heat, light, and air, duly supplied.

General management. In this, Mr. Oldacre has nothing particular; he is careful not to let the temperature of either frames or pits, containing Pine plants fall under 60° in winter, but is not afraid of a heat of 90° or 100° in summer. After shifting, and occasionally during very hot weather, he shades the plants in the frames and succession-pits, well knowing that the want of abundant and extended roots must lessen that supply of moisture essential to the vigour of plants, during high sunshine, when evaporation is so powerful. His fruiting-plants he keeps in large pots, rather broad than deep, and so liberally supplies them with water, that evaporation and transpiration go on even in the hottest sun-shine, without injuring the plants. He waters often with liquid manure, generally the drainings of dunghills; frequently steams the house by watering the paths and flues when the steam apparatus is not at work; sometimes he waters the plants over the top; and at all times he keeps up a good bottom heat.

It may be further noticed, that in the hottest weather, from June to September, he permits the temperature of the atmosphere of the house to rise to upwards of 100 degrees during the day, but leaves sufficient number of sashes open during the night, to lower the heat of the air within very nearly to that of the air without. This is perfectly natural treatment, consistent with what takes place in those countries where the Pine Apple is grown in the open air, and consonant with the practice of Mr. Knight.

Insects. These he keeps off by regimen, watering with clear water, and filling the house with steam. In short, Mr. Oldacre’s opinions and practices, as far as circumstances have required practice, are in perfect unison with Mr. M’Phail’s: and it is not, perhaps, too much to assert, that experience will bring every gardener to the same result.

Fruit produced. Mr. Oldacre considers that the fruit he produces in the copper-roofed house is never so high-flavoured as that grown in the other with a timber roof, though the treatment be in all other respects the same. This certainly appears a very singular circumstance, and not to be accounted for in the present state of human knowledge. The bars of iron, or copper sashes, might possibly (but not probably) make some difference in the electrical state of the air of the house, but this is the utmost degree of variation we can conceive a metallic roof capable of making. If it admits more light, or abstracts more heat, these are effects easily counteracted, if desired, and must have been so, if they existed in any degree, as Mr. Oldacre asserts the culture in both houses was exactly alike.

On the whole, we must suspend our opinion on this subject; or rather conclude that it is more probable, Mr. Oldacre is mistaken in thinking the culture he gives to the plants in both houses the same, than that the single circumstance of a metallic roof on one of them, should make such difference in its produce. This report, which had been made current at the Horticultural Society, excited the attention of Sir Thomas Baring, who, having an extensive range of metallic hot-houses, at East Stratton Park, his seat in Hampshire, soon afterwards sent a very fine Pine Apple to the Society, to be tasted at one of their meetings. At this meeting we were present, but though we tasted of this Pine Apple, yet not having sufficient opportunity of comparing it with any other, we could not discern any difference. When a great many fruits are tasted in rapid succession, and of each such small portions as hardly to afford its real taste, the impression on the palate is evanescent; or at any rate, it is not, perhaps, too much to say, that under such circumstances, it is difficult to form a solid judgment.

Sect. XV. Culture of the Pine Apple, by William Townsend Aiton, Esq., gardener to the King, at Kew and Kensington.

It is only within the last four years, that the Pine culture, in the royal gardens, has been above mediocrity; before 1817, and as far back as we have had an opportunity of observing, they were in a very poor state, those at Kew more particularly. At present, the Pines in both the gardens mentioned, are equal to any within ten miles of London; and, with the exception of the New Providence, Black Antigua, and some other sorts, are not surpassed, even by those of Mr. Baldwin. The culture pursued in the royal gardens, is as simple as it is successful; and as economical as if the fruit were grown for the market by a commercial gardener. The whole does the highest credit to Mr. Aiton, and those whom he employs.

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Form of House. The plants are struck, and brought forward in pits, or frames, (fig. 14.) constructed exactly in Mr. Baldwin’s manner, with this difference, that the sub-soil at Kensington being moist, they are raised on a small platform (a...b) above the surface, instead of being sunk under it, as Baldwin’s are. They have, also, the addition of a gutter in front (c), which, though at first sight it may appear trifling, yet, in practice, is of very material consequence, by keeping the lining dry, and not chilling and interrupting the heat in the very part where it should penetrate to the interior of the pit.

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Occasionally some plants are fruited in these pits, especially at Kew, but, in general, they are removed to a low house (fig. 15.) of a most economical and judicious construction, and calculated both for the growth of Pines and Vines. This house is fifteen feet wide within walls; the pit (a), is nine feet wide; the back path (b), forms a border for the roots of the Vines; the pit is surrounded by a flue (c, d); the curb, or plate is two feet three inches from the glass in front (e), and four feet eight inches from it behind (f); the Vines are planted in the back border (b), and trained under the roof directly over it and over the back flue; and others are planted in the front border (g); and trained up the rafters.

The length of the houses in the royal gardens at Kensington, varies from thirty-three to fifty feet (fig. 16.): each house has two furnaces, one for constant use, and another for giving an extra supply of heat in very severe weather. The first (a), proceeds directly to the front corner (b), thence along the front to the opposite end (c), then along the back of the pit (d, e), passing under the back path, or border, and terminating in a chimney (f) beside the furnace.

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The other furnace is placed at the opposite end of the house (g); has a short flue under the back path, which conducts it to the back course of the principal flue (at d), which it joins, and the smoke of the two fires moves in the same tunnel, (from d to e) and passes out by the same chimney. When this second furnace is not in use, its connection with the flue of the first is cut off by a damper at the point of junction (d). A very small fire made in this furnace in severe weather, not only adds to the heat of the house by its own power, but by increasing the draught, or rate of burning, of the fire in the other furnace.

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In addition to the fire heat, a steam apparatus has been lately erected, and the tubes conducted round the houses on the tops of the flues (fig. 15. d, e); this is found to give a great command of heat, and also to admit of filling the house with vapour at pleasure. The height of the house from the ground to the top of the back wall, is only nine feet (fig. 17.); the rafters of the roof are placed about four feet apart, centre from centre; or about twenty-four sashes are given to every hundred feet; the front sashes (a), are only eighteen inches high, and slide past each other; the middle end sash (b), also slides; the sill of the door (c), and the back path, or border, are on a level with the outer surface of the ground, to admit the easy wheeling in of tan, &c.; the front border (d), is raised considerably above it, on account of the wet bottom; the back sheds are low and neat, and the furnaces sunk three feet below the surface (fig. 16, h h) to give them a better draught; and this also serves to drain the back border.

The houses are placed in pairs, the furnaces for general use at the extreme ends of the range, and the auxiliary ones in the middle, where the steam-boiler is also placed, but worked by a fire apart.

On the whole, no plan of Pine-stove that has yet appeared, is more simple, neat, economical, and complete than this; the only fault we have to them, is, that owing to the great thickness of wood employed on the bars of the sashes, they are rather dark and gloomy within; but this might easily be remedied by the substitution of light iron rafters, with wooden framed sashes sliding in them, but the bars of the sashes formed of iron. It is true, gloomy as these houses are, the Pines thrive in them as well as can be wished, but probably by having more light, they might thrive, so as to surpass all expectation.

Soil. Good yellow loam, with a third of rotten dung, and some road grit to serve as sand. This is well mixed together, and passed through a wide screen, and the pots are well drained with three or four pieces of potsherd.

General management. This differs in little or nothing from that of Mr. Andrews; and only from that of Mr. Baldwin in the crowns and suckers being struck in pots, instead of the bark, as is Mr. Baldwin’s practice. Supposing the crowns and suckers potted in September, they are not disturbed till the following March; such as are very forward, are shifted at once into large pots, and will show fruit in the course of that autumn, or within the year, and ripen their fruit in November or December, very desirable periods for the royal table, equally expeditious, as in Mr. Baldwin’s mode, and more so than in Cuba or Jamaica. The plants which are in a less forward state are disrooted entirely, put into pots according to their sizes, nursed all the summer in the pits, and moved to the larger houses in autumn, where they show fruit at various periods, during the winter, and in the following season; thus ripening their fruit at different periods, from eighteen months to two and a half years, from the time they were taken from the parent plants. The pots in which these plants are fruited, seldom exceed twelve inches in diameter.

Insects. Various modes of getting rid of these was attempted both at Kew and Kensington; that which was finally successful was steeping for two or three hours in strong tobacco-water, as recommended by Miller; then washing in pure water two or three times—drying, planting, shading, and applying a brisk bottom heat, a moist atmosphere, and giving a little air. This recovered the plants, and future regimen continued them in the vigorous state of health in which they now are.

Fruit produced. The object, and it is most successfully attained, is to have handsome Pines on the royal table every day in the year; they cannot, of course, be very high-flavoured in the winter and spring months; but appearance, in some cases, is every thing—they look well, the golden hue of the Apple, mimic grandeur of the crown, and the presence of such a rare fruit at an uncommon season, accords well with the pomp and splendour of a royal table. As to flavor, indeed, by the time the desert appears on great occasions, the palate is generally seasoned with wine, and a few drops of alcohol are already transferred to the ventricles of the brain; when that is the case, every fruit has just what flavor it ought to have; for the fine phrensy of a warmed imagination knows no degree of merit but the superlative.