SECTION III. (continued 2)

Essence of Volkameria.

Esprit de violette,1 pint.

" tubereuse,1 "

" jasmine,1/4 "

" rose,1/2 "

Essence de muse,2 oz.

Wallflower (Cherianthus).—Exquisite as is the odor of this flower, it is not used in perfumery, though no doubt it might be, and very successfully too, were the plant cultivated for that purpose. To this flower we would direct particular attention, as one well adapted for experiments to obtain its odoriferous principle in this country, our climate being good for its production. The mode for obtaining its odor has been indicated when we spoke of heliotrope, page 60. And if it answers on the small scale, there is little doubt of success in the large way, and there is no fear but that the scent of the old English wallflower will meet with a demand.

An Imitation Essence of Wallflower can be compounded thus:—

Extract fleur d'orange,1 pint.

" vanilla,1/2 "

Esprit de rose,1 "

Extract of orris,1/2 "

" cassie,1/2 "

Essential oil of almonds,5 drops.

Allow this mixture to be made up for two or three weeks prior to putting it up for sale.

Winter Green (Trientalis Europœa).—A perfuming otto can be procured by distilling the leaves of this plant: it is principally consumed in the perfuming of soaps. Upon the strength of the name of this odorous plant a very nice handkerchief perfume is made.

Iceland Winter Green.

Esprit de rose,1 pint.

Essence of lavender,1/4 "

Extract of neroli,1/2 "

" vanilla,1/4 "

" vitivert,1/4 "

" cassie,1/2 "

" ambergris,1/4 "

We have now described all the important odoriferous bodies which are used by the manufacturing perfumer, as derived from the botanic kingdom; it may be understood that where an odoriferous material is unnoticed, it has no qualities peculiar enough to be remarked on, and that the methods adopted for preparing its essence, extract, water, or oil, are analogous to those that have been already noticed, that is, by the processes of maceration, absorption, or enfleurage for flowers, by tincturation for roots, and by distillation for seeds, modified under certain circumstances.

There are, however, three other important derivative odors—ambergris, civet, and musk—which, being from the animal kingdom, are treated separately from plant odors, in order, it is considered, to render the whole matter less confused to manufacturers who may refer to them. Ammonia and acetic acid, holding an indefinite position in the order we have laid down, may also come in here without much criticism, being considered as primitive odors.

On terminating our remarks relating to the simple preparations of the odors of plants, and before we speak of perfumes of an animal origin, or of those compound odors sold as bouquets, nosegays, &c., it may probably be interesting to give a few facts and statistics, showing the consumption, in England, of the several substances previously named.

Quantities of Essential Oils, or Ottos, Paying 1s. per Pound Duty, entered for Home Consumption in the Year 1852.

lbs.

Otto of bergamot,28,574

" caraway,3,602

" cassia,6,163

" cloves,595

Otto of lavender,12,776

" lemon,67,348

" peppermint,16,059

" roses,1,268

" spearmint,163

" thyme,11,418

" lemon grass,}

" citronella,}47,380

And other ottos not otherwise described,}

————

Total essential oils or ottos imported in one year,195,346

at the duty of 1s. per pound, yield a revenue annually of 9,766l. 16s.

It would appear by the above return that our consumption of otto of cloves was exceedingly small; whereas it is probably ten times that amount. The fact is, several of the English wholesale druggists are very large distillers of this otto, leaving little or no room for the sale and importation of foreign distilled otto of cloves. Again, otto of caraway, the English production of that article is quite equal to the foreign; also, otto of lavender, which is drawn in this country probably to the extent of 6000 lbs. annually.

There were also passed through the Custom House for home consumption, in 1852—

Pomatums, procured by enfleurage, maceration, &c., commonly called "French Pomatums,"

average value of 6s.per pound, and paying a duty of 1s.per pound, valued by the importers at £1,306

Perfumery not otherwise described; value£1,920

Number of bottles of eau de Cologne, paying a duty of 1s. each,[D]19,777

Revenue from eau de Cologne manufactured out of England, say 20,000 flacons at 8d. = 8,000l. annually.

The total revenue derived from various sources, even upon this low scale of duties, from the substances with which "Britannia perfumes her pocket handkerchief," cannot be estimated at less than 40,000l. per annum. This, of course, includes the duty upon the spirits used in the home manufacture of perfumery.