THE ART of COOKERY. (continued 2)

Another Way.

Cut the fowl as above, and add to it some benshamelle; or, instead of thickening with flour and water as the above, add, five minutes before it is to be served up, a leason of two eggs.

Pullet a la Memorancy.

Bone it, leaving the legs and wings on; then season the inside with pepper, salt, and beaten spice. Put a light forcemeat into it, sew it up, truss it as for roasting, set it with hot water, lard it neat, and roast it gently with a veal caul over. When it is done, take off the caul, glaize the larding, and serve it up with white ragooed sweetbreads round it, or with strong cullis or plain benshamelle.

Chickens with Lemon Sauce.

Boil two chickens as white as possible, or braise them with bards of bacon over them; and when they are done wipe them dry and pour the sauce over.

To make Lemon Sauce.

Pare two lemons and cut them into very small pieces in the form of dice; then take the liver and scalded parsley chopped, put them into a stewpan, add some boiling benshamelle and a little melted butter, and simmer over a fire for two minutes.

Fricassee of Chickens or Rabbits (white).

Cut them into pieces and blanch and drain them dry; then put them into a stewpan with a little veal stock, a blade of mace, and a middling-sized whole onion. Stew them gently till three parts done; then add slices of blanched throat sweetbreads, stewed white button mushrooms, egg balls, and pieces of artichoke bottoms. When they are all nearly stewed, season with salt and a little lemon juice, add a leason of three eggs, simmer it over a fire for five minutes, taking care not to let it curdle, and serve it up very hot, with the mace and onion taken out.

N. B. Instead of a leason, the stock it is stewed in may be almost reduced, and a benshamelle added with the sweetbreads, mushrooms, &c.

Chickens or Turkies with Celery.

Boil or braise them, and when they are to be served up wipe them dry, and pour over them white celery sauce. Or they may be served with brown celery sauce under them, and the breast of the poultry glaized. [See Celery Sauce, white and brown.]

Turkies, Pullets, or Chickens, with Oyster Sauce.

Boil them, wipe them dry, and when they are to be served up pour over them white oyster sauce.

To make white Oyster Sauce.

Blanch large oysters till half done, and strain and preserve the liquor; then beard and wash them, and put the liquor, free from sediment, into a stewpan. Add to it two ounces of fresh butter, half a pint of good cream, a piece of lemon peel, and a blade of mace; put it over a fire, and when it nearly boils add mixed flour and water to thicken it properly. Season to the palate with lemon juice, salt, and a little cayenne pepper if approved; then strain it through a fine hair sieve to the oysters, and boil them gently five minutes.

N. B. In the same manner may be done stewed oysters for dishes, only serve them up with sippets of bread round.

Chickens with Peas.

Truss them as for boiling, blanch them five minutes, and wash them clean; then braise them till tender with a little veal stock and bards of fat bacon or with white paper over them. When they are to be served up wipe them dry, glaize the tops lightly, and put pea sauce under.

Another way to stew Chickens with Peas.

Cut the chickens into pieces, blanch and drain them dry, and put them into a stewpan with a little veal stock; then stew them till tender and the liquor almost reduced. When they are to be served up, put them on a dish, and the peas sauce over.

Fricassee of Chickens or Rabbits (brown).

Cut the chickens into pieces, and fry them in a little lard till of a light brown colour; then drain them with a cloth very dry; after which put them into a stewpan, add button mushrooms stewed, pieces of artichoke bottoms, blanched truffles, morells, egg balls, and some good-seasoned cullis. Set them over a moderate fire, stew them gently till done, and serve up with fried oysters round them.

To fry Oysters for a Dish.

Open twenty-four large oysters, blanch them with their own liquor, and when three parts done strain them, and preserve the liquor; then wash and let them drain. In the meanwhile make a batter with four table spoonfuls of flour, two eggs, a little pepper and salt, and their liquor. Beat it well with a wooden spoon or a whisk for five minutes. Put the oysters into the batter, mix them lightly, and have ready boiling lard. Take the oysters out singly with a fork, put them into the lard, and fry them of a nice brown colour. Then put them on a drainer, strew over a small quantity of salt, and serve them up. If they are for a dish put fried parsley under them, or stewed spinach.

Directions for Poultry, &c. plain boiled.

Let it be observed that turkies, chickens, and meats, intended to be plain boiled, should be soaked in cold water, and put afterwards into plenty of boiling pump water, kept skimmed and preserved as white as possible. The time they will take dressing depends on a little practice, as in roasting. Be particular in trimming the meats neat, and in trussing the poultry. The carving, likewise, should be carefully attended to, which is frequently expressed by the phrase of cutting into pieces.

Jugged Hare.

Case the hare, cut off the shoulders and legs, and the back into three pieces. Daub them well with fat bacon, and put them into a stewpot with the trimmings. Add to them allspice, mace, whole pepper, a little of each; a small clove of garlick, three onions, two bay leaves, parsley, thyme, and savory, tied together in a small bunch; a quart of veal stock, three gills of red port; and simmer them over a fire till three parts done. Then take out the shoulders, legs, and back; put them into another stewpan, strain the liquor to them, and add some passed flour and butter to thicken it a little. Let it stew till tender, skim it free from fat, season with cayenne, salt, and lemon juice, and serve it up in a deep dish.

Glaized Hare.

Case the hare, bone it as whole as possible, wash it, and fill the inside with light forcemeat; then sew it up, and truss it as for roasting. Lard the back with bacon, the same as a fricando veal; cover it with a veal caul, and roast it very gently. When it is to be served up, take off the caul, glaize the larding, and put strong cullis, with a gill of red port boiled with it, under the hare.

Duck aux Naves.

Bone a tame duck as whole as possible, and season the inside with beaten spices, pepper, and salt; then draw in the legs and wings, and fill the inside with light forcemeat. Sew it up, braise it in a pint of veal stock, cover it with white paper and the cover of the stewpan. Let it stew gently till tender, and the liquor almost reduced. When it is to be served up glaize the breast, and pour the sauce round it, which is to be made with turnips cut into shapes as for haricot; afterwards to be put into a stewpan and sweated with a bit of fresh butter till three parts done; then add a good cullis and the essence in which the duck was braised. When it boils, skim free from fat, season to the palate, and stew the turnips till done.

A Duck with Cucumbers.

The duck to be boned, braised, and served up in the same manner as the above, but instead of turnips put cucumber sauce, or peas, as for veal tendrons.

A Duck a la Benshamelle.

Bone, braise, and glaize the duck as mentioned in the preceding article, and when it is to be served up put a sauce round it made with heads of sprue grass boiled in a little veal stock, and when tender rub them through a tamis. Add the pulp to a small quantity of benshamelle, boil them together for five minutes, and let the sauce be very white and strong.

Hashed Mutton for a Dish.

Take mutton ready dressed, cut it into thin slices, put them into a stewpan with slices of pickle cucumbers, or walnuts, or onions; then make a sauce with chopped eschallots or onions passed with a bit of fresh butter over a slow fire till three parts done; after which add a pint of veal stock, or gravy, and a little ketchup. Boil it ten minutes, season to the palate with cayenne pepper and salt; then strain it to the mutton, let it stew gently till thoroughly hot, and add a small quantity of liquid of colour.

N. B. In the same manner may be done beef; and when it is to be served up put the bones (which are to be seasoned with pepper and salt, and grilled) over the hash.

Hashed Venison.

Take the part least done of ready-dressed venison, cut it in slices, and put them into a stewpan; then pass a bit of fresh butter and flour and chopped eschallots over a slow fire for ten minutes, and add to them half a pint of red port, a pint and a half of veal stock, its own gravy, if any, a little piece of lemon peel, cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon juice. Season to the palate, boil all together a quarter of an hour, and strain it to the venison. Let it simmer gently till thoroughly hot.

N. B. The venison should not be put into the liquor above ten minutes before it is to be served up, by reason of the fat dissolving too much.

Hashed Fowls.

Cut into pieces (very neat) ready-dressed fowls, turkies, or rabbits, and put them into a stewpan; then make a thickening with a bit of fresh butter, flour, and chopped eschallots or onions mixed over a slow fire. Discharge it with veal stock, add a little lemon pickle and ketchup, season to the palate, put a small quantity of liquid of colour, boil for ten minutes, strain to the poultry, and let it stew gently. When served up, there may be put a few pieces of the fowl grilled round it.

N. B. Instead of the thickening and veal stock, may be added cullis with lemon pickle and ketchup.

Hashed Hare, Wild Fowl, Pheasants, or Partridges.

Cut the poultry into neat pieces, put them into a stewpan, and add a liquor made in the same manner as for venison; or put cullis and red port with their own gravy.

Broiled Beef Steaks.

Take a small fat rump of beef, and cut off the fillet and the first two or three steaks; then cut the remainder into steaks also, and cut the skin from the fat. Beat them with a chopper, and season with pepper and salt just before they are to be put on the gridiron, which should be well cleaned, and the steaks frequently turned. When they are done according to desire, serve them up on a hot dish with a little gravy under, some scraped horseradish, chopped eschallots, and pickles, on small plates, and oyster sauce in a sauce boat, or with slices of onions dipped in batter and fried.

N. B. The fillet and outside steaks of the rump may be made into a pudding, in order to have prime steaks for broiling.

Beef Steak Pudding.

Take flour, chopped suet, some milk, a little salt, and one egg, and mix them well together. Roll out the paste of half an inch thick, and sheet a bason or a bowl with it. Then trim the skin from the meat, beat the steaks well with a chopper, cut them into middling-sized pieces, season with pepper and salt, put them into the bason with blanched oysters and slices of potatoes alternately (or slices of onions, if approved). Cover the top with paste, and tie a cloth over the bason. Boil the pudding (if of a middling size) two hours; and when it is to be served up put into it a little cullis and ketchup.

Oyster Sauce for Beef Steaks.

Blanch a pint of oysters, and preserve their liquor; then wash and beard them, and put their liquor into a stewpan with india soy and ketchup, a small quantity of each, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Set them over a fire, and when nearly boiling thicken with flour and water; season to the palate with a little cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon juice; strain it to the oysters, and stew them gently five minutes.

To dress Mutton, Lamb, or Pork Chops in a plain Manner.

Cut a loin of mutton, lamb, or pork, into chops of a middling thickness; beat them with a chopper, trim off a sufficient quantity of the bone and fat; then season with pepper and salt, broil them over a clear moderate fire, and serve them up very hot with gravy.

N. B. Lamb chops may have stewed spinach or fried parsley underneath.

To dress Veal Cutlets.

Beat the cutlets with a chopper, and cut them into middling-sized pieces; then strew on each side of them a mixture of breadcrumbs, chopped parsley and thyme, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, and broil them over a clear fire till done and of a nice colour. Serve them up with cullis sauce and ketchup in it, or stewed mushrooms and cullis. Rashers of broiled bacon and fried oysters (a few of each if approved) may be put round the cutlets or chops, which may be done in the same manner.

Minced Veal for a Dish.

Cut into small pieces ready dressed veal, put it into a stewpan, add to it a very small quantity of grated lemon peel and a little benshamelle; season to the palate with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and salt; stew the veal gently ten minutes, and serve it up with sippets of bread round it either fried or plain.

Minced Veal another way.

Add to the veal a little stock, one eschallot chopped fine, some grated nutmeg and grated lemon peel, a very small quantity of each. Season with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and salt. Let it stew ten minutes, and just before it is to be served up add a leason of two eggs and cream, simmer them together five minutes, and be careful it does not burn nor curdle. Sippets of bread, likewise, to be placed round.

Partridges or Pheasants au Choux.

Bone the birds, put into them some light forcemeat well-seasoned; sew them up, blanch and wipe them dry, and braise them in a pint of stock till tender. After which cut two savoys into quarters and boil them till a fourth part done; then squeeze them and tie round with twine, put them into a stewpan, add a pint of stock, and boil them gently till done. Then take the savoys out, cut off the strings, put the birds into the center of a dish, the savoys round them, and set the dish in an oven or in a warm place covered over. Then mix the two liquors together, season to the palate with pepper, salt, and lemon juice. Make it of a proper thickness with flour and water, boil it till three parts reduced, add a little colour and strain it. When the birds are to be served up glaize their breasts lightly, and put the sauce over the savoys.

Partridges or Pheasants with Truffles.

Bone the birds, and force and braise them in a small quantity of stock. When they are to be served up glaize the breasts lightly, and put green truffle sauce round them, with the essence of the birds mixed in it.

Turkey with Truffles.

Truss the turkey as for boiling, put some light forcemeat with truffles pounded with it into the cavity near the breast, and secure it from falling out. Then put slices of lemon, some salt, and bards of fat bacon on the breast, and white paper over it bound on with packthread, and roast gently (if a good-sized turkey) one hour and a half. When it is to be served up, take off the paper, glaize the breast, and put the truffle sauce round the turkey.

N. B. In the same manner may be done pullets or chickens.

Truffle Sauce for Turkies, &c.

Put green truffles into water, clean them well with a hard brush, cut the outside paring thinly off, trim them into shapes or round, put the trimmings into a marble mortar, pound them, and add to the forcemeat which is to be put into the cavity near the breast of the turkey. Then put the truffles into a stewpan with a pint of beef stock, stew them gently, and when the liquor is almost reduced add some cullis well-seasoned.

Turkey with Chesnuts.

Truss the turkey as for boiling, stuff it with light forcemeat and Spanish chesnuts whole, and paper and roast it as a turkey with truffles. When it is to be served up, glaize the breast and put chesnut sauce round it, made with good cullis and chesnuts, which should be boiled till half done, and then roasted in a frying pan till wholly done; after which let them be peeled and put into the cullis five minutes before the turkey is served up.

Turkey with Ragout.

Stuff it in the plain way, boil it, and when it is to be served up put over the following sauce:—Take slices of throat sweetbreads blanched, white button mushrooms stewed, artichoke bottoms boiled till half done and cut in halves, cocks combs boiled till done, a few egg balls scalded; add a good benshamelle, and stew them gently for ten minutes. Or, instead of benshamelle, there may be put to the above ingredients half a pint of veal stock, and let them all be boiled ten minutes; then add a leason of three eggs and cream, simmer them together five minutes more, and season with salt, lemon juice, and cayenne pepper.

Rabbits with Onions.

Boil them as white as possible, and when they are to be served up, wipe them dry and put over onion sauce, made thus:—Take mild onions peeled, and boiled till three parts done; then squeeze and chop them but not too small; add a bit of fresh butter, a little salt and flour, a sufficient quantity of cream to mix them, and a little white ground pepper, if approved. Let the sauce be of a good thickness, and simmered over a slow fire for ten minutes.

Glaized Sweetbreads.

Lard very neat two heart sweetbreads, then blanch and braise or roast them; and when they are to be served up, glaize the top part, and put stewed endive under them.

Matelote of Rabbits.

Cut them into pieces and blanch and wash them; then put them into a stewpan with a gill of water, cover close and preserve them as white as possible. When they are nearly done and the liquor almost reduced, which should not be of any colour, add half a pint of good benshamelle, a few whole boiled cocks combs, pickle cucumbers, ham, tongue, omlets of eggs (the same as for garnishing) cut into small squares, and a few stewed button mushrooms. Stew them together for ten minutes, and serve the matelote up directly.

Sweetbreads en Erison.

To be done in the same manner as neck of veal, which see.

Stewed Giblets plain.

Cut two pair of scalded goose giblets into pieces of two inches long; then blanch them, trim the bones from the ends, and wash the giblets; after which drain them dry, put them into a stewpan with half a pint of stock, cover the pan close, simmer over a slow fire till three parts done and the liquor nearly reduced, then add good-seasoned cullis, and stew them till tender.

Stewed Giblets with Peas.

Proceed as with the above, except, instead of plain cullis, take a pint of shelled young green peas, and sweat them till three parts done with a bit of fresh butter and a little salt; then add some cullis, put them to the giblets, and stew them till tender. If requisite put a little liquid of colour.

Green Truffles for a Dish.

Well clean two pounds of green truffles; then put them into a stewpan with half a pint of stock, a gill of red port, and a little salt, and boil them gently half an hour. When they are to be served up, drain them dry and put them into a folded napkin. They are to be eaten with cold fresh butter, or with oil, vinegar, and cayenne pepper.

N. B. The liquor they were boiled in may be made into a cullis, and put into different sauces, such as haricot, ragout, or celery, &c.

Rabbits en Gallentine for a Dish.

Bone two rabbits, lay them flat, put a little light forcemeat upon them, and slips of lean ham, breast of fowl, and omlets of eggs white and yellow, the same as for garnishing. Roll the rabbits up tight and sew them, lard the top part with slips of fat bacon very neat, and blanch and braise them. When they are to be served up glaize the larding, and put good cullis under them.

Ham braised.

Take a mellow smoked ham perfectly clean; then well trim and put it into a braising pan; after which, add to it four quarts of water, a bottle of madeira wine, and a few bay leaves. Cover the pan close, and simmer the ham over a moderate fire till very tender. Then wipe it quite dry, take off the rind, glaize the top part, and serve it up on a large dish with stewed spinach on one side and mashed turnips on the other.

N. B. Hams may be plain boiled and served up in the same manner.

Pickled tongues may be stuffed with marrow and boiled, then peeled, and served up with the above vegetables and in the same manner.

Jerusalem Artichokes stewed.

Pare and cut them into halves, boil them in a little consumé till nearly done and the liquor almost reduced; then add a bit of fresh butter, salt, flour, and cream, a small quantity of each. Set them over a fire for five minutes, and serve them up with fried bread round.

Jerusalem Artichokes another way.

Pare and cut them into shapes as for haricot, and fry them in boiling-hot lard till of a light brown colour; then drain them dry, put them into a stewpan, and add a little strong cullis with a small quantity of vinegar and mustard mixed in it. Serve them up with fried bread round.

Mashed Potatoes.

Pare and steam or boil floury potatoes, and mash them with a wooden spoon; then add a bit of fresh butter, a little salt, and some milk or cream. Mix them well together over a fire for five minutes, then put them in the center of a dish, make them smooth, chequer the top with the back of a knife, and put some whole potatoes round if approved. Serve them up very hot, but be careful the mash is not too thin, and preserve them as white as possible.

N. B. The same mash may be put into scollop shells and coloured with a salamander; or the mash may be mixed with yolk of egg, then moulded with the hands into round balls, and fried in boiling lard.

Cauliflower with Parmezan Cheese.

Cut off the leaves and stalk, boil it in salt and water till nearly done, and drain till dry. Have ready a dish with fried bread dipped in white of raw egg, and put round the rim. Set the flower in the center of the dish, and pour over it a sauce made with boiling-hot benshamelle, and, three minutes before it is to be put over the cauliflower, add grated parmezan cheese.

Cauliflower a la Sauce.

Boil the flower, and either serve it up whole or in pieces, placed round each other in a dish. The sauce over it to be boiling hot and of a good thickness, made with strong cullis, a little vinegar, and fresh butter mixed together.

N. B. Broccoli may be done in the same manner.

Cauliflower a la Cream.

Boil the flower and pour over it the following sauce:—Take a gill of consumé and a table spoonful of vinegar, which put into a stewpan and set over a fire till hot, and five minutes before it is to be sent to table add a leason of two eggs and a gill of cream.

Stewed Artichoke Bottoms.

Boil six artichokes till half done; then take the leaves and choke away, trim the bottoms neat with a knife, or cut them with a shape; after which put them into a stewpan, add half a pint of stock, a little salt and lemon juice, and boil them gently till done. When they are to be served up wipe them dry, put them in the center of a dish with fried bread round the rim, and a strong bright cullis over them, or benshamelle.

French Beans a la Cream for a Dish.

Cut young beans in slips, boil them in plenty of water and salt to preserve them green, and when they are done drain them dry. Then put into a stewpan two ounces of fresh butter, the yolks of three eggs beat up in a gill of cream, and set over a slow fire. When it is hot add a table spoonful of vinegar and the beans, simmer all together for five minutes, and keep stirring the beans with a wooden spoon to prevent the mixture from burning or curdling.

Stewed Cardoons.

Cut the heads in pieces, take off the outside skin, wash, and scald them; then put them into a stewpan, add a little stock to cover them, boil till three parts done and the liquor almost reduced, then add a small quantity of benshamelle and stew them gently till done. Serve them up with sippets of fried bread and stewed watercresses alternately round the rim of the dish, and the cardoons in the center. Or they may be done in the same manner with cullis instead of benshamelle.

Vegetables in a Mould.

Sheet the inside of an oval jelly or cake mould with bards of fat bacon; then put upright alternately round the inside of the bacon slips of cleaned turnips, carrots, pickle cucumbers, and celery and asparagus heads. Lay a forcemeat at the bottom and round the inside of the vegetables, filling the center with small pieces of veal or mutton passed with sweet herbs, pepper, salt, and lemon juice. Cover it with forcemeat, wash it with yolk of egg, and bake it. When it is to be served up turn it gently out of the mould into a deep dish, take off the bacon, make a little hole at the top, and add a small quantity of good cullis.

Broiled Mushrooms.

Clean with a knife fresh forced mushrooms, and wash and drain them dry. Then make a case with a sheet of writing paper, rub the inside well with fresh butter, and fill it with the mushrooms. Season them with pepper and salt, put them upon a baking plate over a slow fire, cover them with a stewpot cover with some fire upon it, and when the mushrooms are nearly dry, serve them up very hot.

Stewed Mushrooms (brown).

Clean with a knife a pottle of fresh forced mushrooms, put them into water, and when they are to be stewed take them out with the hands to avoid the sediment. Then put them into a stewpan with an ounce and an half of fresh butter, a little salt, and the juice of half a lemon. Cover the stewpan close, put it over a fire, and let the mushrooms boil for five minutes. Then thicken them with a little flour and water mixed, add a small quantity of liquid of colour, (some cayenne if approved,) and stew them gently for five minutes more.

Stewed Mushrooms (white).

Let the same process be followed as above; but instead of adding liquid of colour put to them a gill of good cream.

Mashed Turnips.

Pare and boil them till three parts done; then squeeze them between two plates, put them into a stewpan, add flour, fresh butter, cream, and salt, a little of each. Mix them well over a fire, stew them gently for five minutes, and preserve them as white as possible.

Potatoes creamed.

Pare good potatoes, cut them into quarters, trim them round, and put them into a stewpan. Boil them gently till half done, drain them dry, add to them cream, salt, and fresh butter, a small quantity of each, or some benshamelle. Stew them very gently till they are done, and be careful they do not break.

Stewed Watercresses.

Pick and wash twelve bunches of watercresses, boil them till half done, and drain and squeeze them dry; then chop and put them into a stewpan, add to them cullis, cream, salt, pepper, and flour, a little of each. Stew them gently ten minutes, and serve them up with fried bread round.

A neat Dish of Vegetables.

Wash a dish with white of raw egg, then make four divisions in it with fried bread, and put alternately in each the following vegetables:—in the first, stewed spinach; in the second, mashed turnips; in the third, mashed potatoes; and in the fourth, slices of carrots and some button onions blanched: afterwards stew them in a little cullis, and when they are put into the dish let the essence adhere to them: or in the fourth partition put pieces of cauliflower or heads of broccoli.

N. B. Instead of fried bread to make the divisions, may be used mashed potatoes and yolks of eggs mixed together, and put on a dish in as many partitions as approved; afterwards baked till of a nice colour, and served up with any kind of stewed vegetable alternately.

Vegetable Pie.

Cut celery heads two inches long, turnips and carrots into shapes, some peeled button onions or two Spanish onions, artichoke bottoms cut into quarters, pieces of cauliflowers or heads of broccoli, and heads of large asparagus. Let all the vegetables be washed clean; then boil each separately in a sufficient quantity of water to cover them, and as they get tender strain the liquor into one stewpan and put the vegetables into another. Then add to their essences half a pint of strong consumé, thicken it with flour and water, season to the palate with cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon juice; add also a little colour. Let it boil ten minutes and strain it to the vegetables; then simmer them together, and serve them up in a raised pie crust, or in a deep dish with a raised crust baked round it, of two inches high.

Fried Potatoes.

Pare and slice potatoes half an inch thick; then wipe them dry, flour, and put them into boiling hot lard or dripping, and fry them of a light brown colour. Then drain them dry, sprinkle a little salt over, and serve them up directly with melted butter in a sauce boat.

Fried Onions with Parmezan Cheese.

Pare six large mild onions, and cut them into round slices of half an inch thick. Then make a batter with flour, half a gill of cream, a little pepper, salt, and three eggs, beat up for ten minutes; after which add a quarter of a pound of parmezan cheese grated fine and mixed well together, to which add the onions. Have ready boiling lard; then take the slices of onions out of the batter with a fork singly, and fry them gently till done and of a nice brown colour. Drain them dry, and serve them up placed round each other. Melted butter with a little mustard in it to be served in a sauce boat.

Pickle Tongue forced.

Boil it till half done, then peel it, and cut a piece out of the under part from the center, and put it into a marble mortar. Then add three ounces of beef marrow, half a gill of cream, the yolk of two eggs, a few breadcrumbs, a little pepper, and a spoonful of madeira wine. Pound them well together, fill the cavity in the tongue with it, sew it up, cover it with a veal caul, and roast till tender, or boil it.

Stewed Endive.

Trim off the green part of endive heads, wash and cut them into pieces, and scald them till half done; then squeeze, chop, and put them into a stewpan; add a small quantity of strong cullis, stew it till tender, and serve it up in a sauce boat, or it may be put under roast mutton.

Forced Cucumbers.

Pare fresh gathered cucumbers of a middling-size; then cut them into halves, take out the seeds with a knife, fill the cavity with forcemeat, and bind the two halves together with strong thread. Put them into a stewpan with vinegar, salt, and veal stock, a small quantity of each. Set them over a fire, simmer them till three parts done, and reduce the liquor; then add with it a strong cullis, put it to the cucumbers, and stew them gently till done.

To stew Peas for a Dish.

Put a quart of fresh shelled young peas into a stewpan, add to them a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a middling-sized onion sliced very fine, a cos or cabbage lettuce washed and cut into pieces, and a very little salt. Cover the pan close, put it over a moderate fire, and sweat the peas till half done. Make them of a proper thickness with flour and water, add a spoonful of essence of ham, season to the palate with cayenne pepper, and add a small lump of sugar if approved. Let the peas stew gently till tender, being careful not to let them burn.

Salad of Asparagus.

Scale and cut off the heads of large asparagus, boil them till nearly done, strain, and put them into cold water for five minutes, and drain them dry; afterwards lay them in rows on a dish, put slices of lemon round the rim, and mix well together a little mustard, oil, vinegar, cayenne pepper, and salt, and put it over the asparagus just before they are to be eaten.

Asparagus Peas.

Scale sprue grass, cut it into pieces the bigness of peas as far as the green part extends from the heads, and wash and put them into a stewpan. To a quart of grass peas add half a pint of hot water lightly salted, and boil them till three parts done; after which strain and preserve the liquor, which boil down till nearly reduced, and put to it three ounces of fresh butter, half a gill of cream, a little sifted sugar, flour, and water, sufficient to make it of a proper thickness; add the peas, stew them till tender, and serve them up with the top of a french roll toasted and buttered put under them in a dish.

Another way.

Boil the peas in salt and water till nearly done, strain and put them into a stewpan, add to them a little sifted sugar, two ounces of fresh butter, a table spoonful of essence of ham, half a gill of cream, with two yolks of raw eggs beat up in it; stew them gently five minutes, and be careful they do not burn. Serve them up in the same manner as the above.

N. B. Large heads of asparagus may be done in the same manner whole.

Stewed Asparagus for Sauce.

Scale sprue or large asparagus, then cut off the heads as far as they are eatable, boil them till nearly done, strain them, and pour cold water over to preserve them green. Then make (boiling) a good strong cullis, and put in the heads five minutes before the sauce is served up, which may be put over tendrons of veal, lamb, &c.

N. B. Some tops of sprue grass may be boiled in a little stock till tender, and rubbed through a tamis. The pulp to be put to the cullis before the heads are added.

Directions for Vegetables.

It is necessary to remember, that in dressing vegetables of every kind, they should be gathered fresh, picked clean, trimmed or pared neatly, and washed in several waters. Those that are to be plain boiled should be put into plenty of boiling water and salt. If they are not to be used directly, when they are three parts done put them into cold water for five minutes, such as spinach, greens, cauliflowers, and broccoli, as it preserves their colour; and when they are to be served up put them again into boiling water till done, then drain them dry.

N. B. Potatoes and carrots are best steamed.

Pickled Oysters.

Put two dozen of large oysters into a stewpan over a fire with their liquor only, and boil them five minutes; then strain the liquor into another stewpan, and add to it a bay leaf, a little cayenne pepper, salt, a gill and a half of vinegar, half a gill of ketchup, a blade of mace, a few allspice, and a bit of lemon peel. Boil it till three parts reduced, then beard and wash the oysters, put them to the pickle, and boil them together two minutes. When they are to be served up place the oysters in rows, and strain the liquor over them. Garnish the dish with slices of lemon or barberries.

Oyster Atlets.

Blanch throat sweetbreads, and cut them into slices; then take rashers of bacon the bigness of the slices of the sweetbreads, and as many large oysters blanched as there are pieces of sweetbread and bacon. Put the whole into a stewpan with a bit of fresh butter, parsley, thyme, and eschallots, chopped very fine, pepper, salt, and lemon juice, a small quantity of each. Put them over a slow fire, and simmer them five minutes; then lay them on a dish, and when a little cool, put upon a small wooden or silver skewer a slice of sweetbread, a slice of bacon, and an oyster, and so alternately till the skewers are full; then put breadcrumbs over them, which should be rubbed through a hair sieve, and broil the atlets gently till done and of a light brown colour. Serve them up with a little cullis under them, together with the liquor from the blanched oysters reduced and added to it.

Scollop Oysters.

Blanch the oysters and strain them; then add to their liquor, which must be free from sediment, a good piece of fresh butter, a little pepper and salt, some lemon peel and grated nutmeg, a small quantity of each. Then beard and wash the oysters, add them to the ingredients, simmer them over a fire five minutes, and put the oysters into scollop shells with the liquor. If there be more than sufficient, boil it till nearly reduced and add it; then put fine breadcrumbs over, smooth them with a knife, bake or set them over a fire upon a gridiron for half an hour, and colour the top part with a salamander.

Oyster Loaves.

Take small french rasped rolls, and cut a little piece off the top part; then take the crumb entirely out, and afterwards fry the case and tops in boiling lard only till they are crisp and of a light colour. Drain them dry, keep them warm, and just before they are to be served up put oysters into them, done in the same manner as for scollops, with the top of the rolls over.

Ragout of Sweetbreads (brown).

Take throat sweetbreads blanched and cut into slices; morells blanched, cut into halves, and washed free from grit; some stewed mushrooms, egg balls, artichoke bottoms, or jerusalem artichokes, boiled till half done and cut into pieces; green truffles pared, cut into slices half an inch thick, and stewed in a little stock till it is nearly reduced; and cocks combs boiled till three parts done. Then mix all the ingredients together, add some cullis, stew them gently a quarter of an hour, and season to the palate.

Ragout of Sweetbreads (white).

Put into a stewpan some stewed mushrooms, egg balls, slices of blanched throat sweetbreads, cocks combs boiled till nearly done, and half a pint of consumé. Stew them ten minutes, then pour the liquor into another stewpan, and reduce it over a fire to one half the quantity. Beat up the yolks of two eggs, a gill of cream, a little salt, and strain them through a hair sieve to the sweetbreads, &c. then put them over a slow fire and let them simmer five minutes; or the above four articles may be put into a stewpan with some benshamelle only, and stewed till done.

Poached Eggs with Sorrel or Endive.

Take a slice of bread round a loaf, and cut it to cover three parts of the inside of a dish; then fry it in boiling lard till of a light colour, drain it dry, and lay it in a warm place. Then wash and chop sorrel, squeeze and put it into a stewpan with a bit of fresh butter, cayenne pepper, and a table spoonful of essence of ham; simmer it till done, thicken it with flour and water, boil it five minutes, butter the toast, poach the eggs, and drain them; then lay them over the bread, put the sorrel sauce round, and serve them up very hot.

Buttered Eggs.

Break twelve eggs into a stewpan, add a little parsley chopped fine, one anchovie picked and rubbed through a hair sieve, two table spoonfuls of consumé or essence of ham, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter made just warm, and a small quantity of cayenne pepper. Beat all together, set them over a fire, and keep stirring with a wooden spoon till they are of a good thickness, and to prevent their burning. Serve them up in a deep dish with a fresh toast under them.

Fried Eggs, &c.

Take slices of ham or rashers of bacon, and broil, drain, and put them into a deep plate. Have ready a little boiling lard in a stewpan, break the eggs into it, and when they are set, turn and fry them not more than two minutes. Then take them out with a skimmer, drain them, and serve them up very hot over the bacon or ham. Put a strong cullis, with a little mustard and vinegar (but no salt) in it, under them.

Eggs a la Trip.

Boil the eggs gently five minutes, then peel, wash, and cut them in halves; put them into a stewpan, add a little warm strong benshamelle, and a small quantity of parsley chopped very fine. Simmer them over a fire a few minutes, and serve them up plain, or with fried oysters round them.

Omlet of Eggs.

Break ten eggs, add to them a little parsley and one eschallot chopped fine, one anchovie picked and rubbed through a hair sieve, a small quantity of grated ham, a little pepper, and mix them well together. Have ready an iron frying-pan, which has been prepared over a fire with a bit of butter burnt in it for some time, in order that the eggs might not adhere to the pan when turned out. Wipe the pan very clean and dry; put into it two ounces of fresh butter, and when hot put in the mixture of eggs; then stir it with a wooden spoon till it begins to thicken, mould it to one side of the pan, let it remain one minute to brown, put a stewpan cover over it, and turn it over into a dish, and if approved (which will be a good addition) pour round it a little strong cullis, and serve it up very hot.

There may be added also, a small quantity of boiled tops of asparagus or celery, some fowl, or oysters, or other ingredients, pounded and rubbed through a sieve, with a table spoonful of cream and one of ketchup. Then add the pulp to the eggs, beat them well together, and fry them as above. Or the mixture, instead of being fried, may be put over a fire and stirred till it begins to thicken; then put it on a toast, colour it with a hot salamander, and serve it up with a little cullis or benshamelle, or green truffle sauce underneath.

Fricassee of Tripe.

Cut the tripe into small slips, and boil in a little consumé till the liquor is nearly reduced; then add to it a leason, of two yolks of eggs and cream, a small quantity of salt, cayenne pepper, and chopped parsley. Simmer all together over a slow fire for five minutes, and serve it up immediately. Or instead of the leason, &c. a little benshamelle and chopped parsley may be added.

Lambs Tails and Ears.

Scald four tails and five ears very clean, and braise them in a pint of veal stock. When the tails are half done, take them out, egg and breadcrumb them over, and broil them gently. Let the ears be stewed till three parts done, and nearly reduce the liquor; then add cullis, stew them till tender, and serve them up with the sauce in the center of the dish, the tails round them, and a bunch of pickle barberries over each ear. Or the tails and ears may be stewed in a little stock till tender; then add a leason of eggs and cream, and serve them up with twelve heads of large asparagus cut three inches long, boiled till done, and put over plain. Let the heads be preserved as green as possible.

Curried Atlets.

Take slices of throat sweetbreads, and slices of veal or mutton of the same size; put them into a stewpan with a bit of fresh butter, a table spoonful of currie powder, the juice of half a lemon, and a little salt. Set them over a slow fire, and when they are half done add to them blanched and bearded oysters with their liquor free from sediment. Simmer all together five minutes, lay them on a dish, and when cold put them alternately on small wooden or silver skewers. Then dip them in the liquor, strew fine breadcrumbs on each side, broil them over a clear fire till of a brown colour, and serve them up with some currie sauce under them.

N. B. The slices of sweetbread, oysters, veal, and mutton, to be of an equal number.

To stew Maccaroni.

Boil a quarter of a pound of riband maccaroni in beef stock till nearly done; then strain it and add a gill of cream, two ounces of fresh butter, a table spoonful of the essence of ham, three ounces of grated parmezan cheese, and a little cayenne pepper and salt. Mix them over a fire for five minutes, then put it on a dish, strew grated parmezan cheese over it, smooth it with a knife, and colour with a very hot salamander.

Stewed Cheese.

Cut small into a stewpan cheshire and gloucester cheese, a quarter of a pound of each; then add a gill of lisbon wine, a table spoonful of water, and (if approved) a tea spoonful of mustard. Mix them over a fire till the cheese is dissolved; then have ready a cheese plate with a lighted lamp beneath, put the mixture in, and serve it up directly. Send with it some fresh toasted bread in a toast rack.

To prepare a Batter for frying the following different articles, being a sufficient quantity for one Dish.

Take four ounces of best flour sifted, a little salt and pepper, three eggs, and a gill of beer; beat them together with a wooden spoon or a whisk for ten minutes. Let it be of a good thickness to adhere to the different articles.

Fried Celery.

Cut celery heads three inches long, boil them till half done, wipe them dry, and add to the batter. Have ready boiling lard, take out the heads singly with a fork, fry them of a light colour, drain them dry, and serve them up with fried parsley under.

Fried Peths.

To be done, and served up in the same manner as the above.

Fried Sweetbreads.

Let some throat sweetbreads be blanched, then cut into slices, and served up in the like way.

Fried Artichoke Bottoms.

Let the chokes be boiled till the leaves can be taken away, then cut the bottoms into halves and fry them in batter as the beforementioned articles; then serve them up with melted butter in a sauce boat with a little ground white pepper in it.

Fried Tripe and Onions.

Cut the tripe into slips of four inches long and three inches wide, dip them in the batter and fry them. When it is to be served up put under it slices of onions cut one inch thick, and fry them in the same manner. Or, instead of slips of tripe, pieces of cowheel may be used; and let melted butter be sent in a sauce boat with a little mustard in it, and (if approved) a table spoonful of vinegar.

Hard Eggs fried.

Let the eggs be boiled five minutes; then peel, wipe them dry, cut them in halves, dip them in batter, and fry them of a light brown colour. Serve them up with stewed spinach under, with a little strong cullis and essence of ham mixed in it.

To dress a Lamb's Fry.

Scald the fry till half done; then strain, wash, and wipe it dry; dip the pieces in yolks of eggs, and breadcrumb them; fry them in plenty of boiling lard, and serve them up with fried parsley underneath.

Another Way.

Scald the fry as above, and instead of dipping them in egg fry them in a plain way with a piece of butter till they are of a light brown colour; then drain and sprinkle a little pepper and salt over, and serve them up with fried parsley underneath.

Puffs with Forcemeat of Vegetables.

Put into a stewpan a little fat bacon cut small, the same quantity of lean veal, some parsley and eschallots chopped together, and season with pepper, salt, and beaten spice. Then add six french beans, twelve heads of asparagus, six mushrooms chopped, and a little lemon juice. Stew the ingredients gently for ten minutes, then put them into a marble mortar, add a little cream, breadcrumbs, and yolk of egg, pounded well together. Then roll out puff paste half an inch thick, cut it into square pieces, fill them with the forcemeat, fold them, run a jagger iron round to form them like a puff, and fry them in boiling lard. Let them be of a brown colour, and drain them dry; then serve them up with sauce under them, made with a little cullis, lemon pickle, and ketchup.

Rammequins.

Put into a pan four ounces of grated parmezan cheese, two ounces of fresh butter just warm, two yolks of eggs, a little parsley and an eschallot chopped fine, one anchovie picked and rubbed through a hair sieve, some cream, pepper, and salt, a small quantity of each, and beat them well together with a wooden spoon. Then make paper cases of three inches long, two inches wide, and two inches deep, and fill them with the mixture. Then whisk the whites of two eggs to a solid froth, put a little over the mixture in each case, and bake them either in an oven, or on a baking plate over a fire with a stewpot cover over them. Serve them up as soon as they are done.

To dress part of a Wild Boar.

Put into a braising pan fourteen pounds weight of the boar; add to it a bottle of red port, eight onions sliced, six bay leaves, cayenne pepper, salt, a few cloves, mace, allspice, and two quarts of veal stock. Stew it gently, and when tender take it out of the liquor, put it into a deep dish, and set it in an oven. Then strain the liquor, reduce it to one quart, thicken it a little with passed flour and butter, and season it to the palate with lemon pickle. Let it boil ten minutes, skim it clean, pour it over the meat, and serve it up.

Plovers Eggs, to be served up in different ways.

Boil them twenty minutes, and when they are cold peel and wipe them dry; then lay them in a dish and put chopped savory jelly round and between them, and slices of lemon and bunches of pickled barberries round the rim of the dish. Or they may be served up in ornamental paper or wax baskets, with pickled parsley under them, and either peeled or not. Or they may be sent to the table hot in a napkin.

Buttered Lobsters.

Boil two lobsters till half done; then take off the tails, cut the bodies in halves, pick out the meat, and leave the shells whole. Then break the tails and claws, cut the meat very small, put it into a stewpan with a table spoonful of the essence of ham, two ounces of fresh butter, consumé and cream half a gill of each, a little beaten mace, one eschallot and parsley chopped very fine, and a few breadcrumbs. Then mix all together over a fire for five minutes, season to the palate with cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon juice; fill the reserved shells with the mixture, strew fine breadcrumbs over, and bake them gently twenty minutes. When they are to be served up colour the crumbs with a salamander.

N. B. In the same manner may be done a pickled crab.

Meat Cake.

Cut the fillet from the inside of a rump of beef into small pieces, also lean veal, and pound them very fine in a marble mortar. Then add a little lemon juice, pepper, salt, chopped parsley, basil, thyme, mushrooms, savory, and eschallots, a small quantity of each; some beaten spices, and yolks of eggs a sufficient quantity to bind it. Then add and mix with your hands some fat bacon and lean of ham cut into the form of small dice. Have ready a stewpan or a mould lined with bards of fat bacon, fill it with the mixture, press it down, put on the top bay leaves and a little rhenish wine, cover it with bards of bacon, put it into a moderate oven, and bake it thoroughly. When it is cold turn it out of the mould, trim it clean, set it on a dish, put chopped savory jelly round it, and a small modelled figure on the top; or the whole of the cake may be modelled.

Collared Pig.

Bone the pig; then have ready some light forcemeat, slips of lean ham, pickled cucumbers, fat bacon, white meat of fowl, and omlet of eggs white and yellow. Season the inside of the pig with beaten spices; then lay on them the forcemeat, and on that the slips of the above different articles alternately; after which roll it up, put it into a cloth, tie each end, sew the middle part, put it into a stewpan with a sufficient quantity of stock to cover it, and stew it two hours and a half. Then take it out of the liquor, tie each end tighter, lay it between two boards, and put a weight upon it to press it. When cold take it out of the cloth, trim and serve it up whole, either modelled or plain, or cut into slices, and put chopped savory jelly round.

N. B. In the same manner may be done a breast of veal, or a large fowl.

Red Beef for Slices.

Take a piece of thin flank of beef, and cut off the skin; then rub it well with a mixture made with two pounds of common salt, two ounces of bay salt, two ounces of salt petre, and half a pound of moist sugar, pounded in a marble mortar. Put it into an earthen pan, and turn and rub it every day for a week; then take it out of the brine, wipe it, and strew over pounded mace, cloves, pepper, a little allspice, and plenty of chopped parsley and a few eschallots. Then roll it up, bind it round with tape, boil it till tender, press it in like manner as collared pig, and when it is cold, cut into slices, and garnish with pickled barberries.

Savory Jelly.

Take the liquor, when cold, that either poultry or meat was braised in, or some veal stock, taking care it be very free from fat. Make it warm, and strain it through a tamis sieve into a clean stewpan; then season it to the palate with salt, lemon pickle, cayenne pepper, and tarragon or plain vinegar. Add a sufficient quantity of dissolved isinglass to make it of a proper stiffness, and whisk into it plenty of whites of eggs, a small quantity of the yolks and shells, and add a little liquid of colour. Then set it over a fire, and when it boils let it simmer a quarter of an hour, and run it through a jelly bag several times till perfectly bright.

Aspect of Fish.

Put into a plain tin or copper mould warm savory jelly about an inch and an half deep; then take fresh smelts turned round, boil them gently in strong salt and water till done, and lay them on a drainer. When the savory jelly in the mould is quite cold, put the smelts upon it with the best side downwards; then put a little more jelly just lukewarm over the fish, and when that is cold fill the mould with more of the same kind. When it is to be served up dip the mould in warm water, put the dish upon the jelly, and turn it over.

N. B. Pieces of lobsters, fillets of soles, &c. may be done in the same manner.

Aspect of Meat or Fowl.

Bone either a shoulder of lamb or a fowl, and season the inside with pepper, salt, and a little beaten spice; then put into it some light forcemeat, sew it up, blanch, and then braise it in stock. When it is done lay it on a dish with the breast downward to preserve it as white as possible; and when the jelly which is in the mould is quite stiff, work on it a sprig or star with small slips of ham, pickle cucumber, breast of fowl, and omlets of egg white and yellow; then set it with a little jelly, and when cold put the meat or poultry upon it, and fill the mould with lukewarm jelly. When it is to be served up turn it out as the aspect of fish.

N. B. In the same manner may be done pieces of meat or poultry without forcing.

Canopies.

Cut some pieces of the crumb of bread about four inches long, three inches wide, and one inch thick, and fry them in boiling lard till of a light brown colour; then put them on a drainer, and cut into slips some breast of fowl, anchovies picked from the bone, pickle cucumbers, and ham or tongue. Then butter the pieces of bread on one side, and lay upon them alternately the different articles till filled. Trim the edges, and put the pieces (cut into what form you please) upon a dish with slices of lemon round the rim, and serve in a sauce boat a little mixture of oil, vinegar, cayenne pepper, and salt.

Solomongundy.

Chop small and separately lean of boiled ham, breast of dressed fowl, picked anchovies, parsley, omlets of eggs white and yellow (the same kind as for garnishing), eshallots, a small quantity of pickle cucumbers, capers, and beet root. Then rub a saucer over with fresh butter, put it in the center of a dish, and make it secure from moving. Place round it in partitions the different articles separately till the saucer is covered, and put on the rim of the dish some slices of lemon.

Salad of Lobster.

Take boiled hen lobsters, break the shells, and preserve the meat as white as possible. Then cut the tails into halves, put them into the center of a dish with the red side upwards, and the meat of the claws whole. Then place round the lobster a row of parsley chopped fine, and a row of the spawn from the inside chopped, and afterwards mix a little of each and strew over the top of the lobster. Then put slices of lemon round the rim of the dish, and send in a sauce boat a mixture of oil, vinegar, mustard, cayenne pepper, and salt, a little of each.

French Salad

Consists of the different herbs in season, as tarragon, chervil, sorrel, chives, endive, silician lettuces, watercresses, dandelion, beet root, celery, &c. all of which should be very young, fresh gathered, trimmed neat, washed clean, drained dry, and served up in a bowl. The sauce to be served up in a sauceboat, and to be made with oil, lemon pickle, vinegar, ketchup, cayenne pepper, a boiled yolk of an egg, and salt.

N. B. Some persons eat with this salad cold boiled turbot or other fish.

Blancmange.

To a quart of new milk add an ounce of picked isinglass, a small stick of cinnamon, a piece of lemon peel, a few coriander seeds washed, six bitter almonds blanched and pounded, or a laurel leaf. Put it over a fire, and when it boils simmer it till the isinglass is dissolved, and strain it through a tamis sieve into a bason. Let it stand ten minutes, skim it, pour it gently into another bason free from sediment, and when it begins to congeal stir it well and fill the shapes.

Dutch Blancmange.

Put a pint of warm cleared calves feet jelly into a stewpan; mix with it the yolks of six eggs, set it over a fire, and whisk it till it begins to boil. Then set the pan in cold water and stir the mixture till nearly cold, to prevent it from curdling, and when it begins to thicken fill the shapes. When it is ready to be served up dip the shapes in warm water.

Riband Blancmange.

Put into a shape some white blancmange two inches deep, and when it is quite cold put alternately, in the same manner, cleared calves feet jelly, white blancmange coloured with cochineal, or dutch blancmange.

Cleared Calves Feet Jelly.

Take scalded calves feet, chop them into pieces, put them into a pot with plenty of water to cover them, boil them gently four or five hours, strain the liquor, and preserve it till the next day in order that it may be quite stiff. Then take off the fat, and afterwards wash it with warm water to make it perfectly clean; after which put it into a stewpan, set it over a fire, and when it is dissolved season it well to the palate with lemon and seville orange juices, white wine and sugar, a piece of lemon peel, cinnamon, and coriander seeds whole, (or add a few drops of liquid of colour if thought requisite). Then whisk into it plenty of whites of eggs, a few yolks, and some shells. Let it boil gently a quarter of an hour, run it through a fine flannel bag several times till quite bright, and when it is nearly cold fill the shapes, which should be very clean and wiped dry.

N. B. When seville oranges are not in season, orange flower water may be added, or (if approved) syrup of roses or quinces. Old hock or madeira wine will make it of the best quality.

Marbrée Jelly.

Put into a mould cleared calves feet jelly one inch deep, and when it is cold put on the center, with the ornamented side downwards, a medallion of wafer paper; or ripe fruits, such as, halves of peaches or nectarines of a fine colour, or black grapes; or small shapes of cold blancmange; or dried fruits, such as, cherries, barberries, green gages, &c. Then set them with a little lukewarm jelly, and when that is quite cold fill the mould with some nearly cold.

Bagnets a l'Eau.

Take half a pint of water, a stick of cinnamon, a bit of lemon peel, a gill of rhenish wine, and a few coriander seeds; sweeten to the palate with sugar, boil the ingredients ten minutes, add an ounce of fresh butter, and when it is melted strain the liquor to a sufficient quantity of flour to make it into a batter. Then put it over the fire again to simmer gently, and add six yolks of eggs. Have ready boiling lard, put into it pieces of the mixture of the bigness of a damson; fry them of a light brown colour, drain them, and serve them up with sifted sugar over.

N. B. The butter should be well beaten.

Apple Fritters for a Dish.

Mix together three ounces of sifted flour, a little salt, a gill of cream or milk, and three eggs; beat them for ten minutes with a spoon or whisk. Then pare twelve holland pippins, cut them into halves, core and put them into the batter. Have ready boiling lard, take the halves out singly with a fork, fry them till done and of a light colour, drain them dry, serve them up with sifted sugar over, some pounded cinnamon on one plate, and seville oranges on another.

N. B. Peaches or pears may be done in the same manner; or oranges, which are to be peeled, divided into quarters, and then put into the batter. Some jam likewise may be mixed with the batter instead of the apples, and fried in small pieces.

Golden Pippins a la Cream.

Take three gills of lisbon wine, a gill of water, a stick of cinnamon, a bit of lemon peel, a small quantity of the juice, and a few coriander seeds; sweeten well with lump sugar, and boil all together for ten minutes. Then have ready twelve large ripe golden pippins pared, and cored with a small iron apple scoop. Put them into a stewpan, strain the above liquor to them, and stew them gently till done; then take them out, put them into a trifle dish, and reduce the liquor to a strong syrup. After which mix with it a pint of cream, the yolks of ten eggs, and a dessert spoonful of syrup of cloves; then strain it, set it over a slow fire, and whisk till it is of a good thickness. Put the pan in cold water, stir the mixture some time, let it cool, and when the pippins are to be served up pour the cream over them, and put round the edge of the dish leaves of puff paste baked of a pale colour.

N. B. The same kind of cream may be put over codlins, gooseberries, or cranberries, when made into pies, only omitting the pippins.

Golden Pippins another way.

Take half a pint of white wine, a gill of water, a stick of cinnamon, a few cloves and coriander seeds, a bit of lemon peel, a little juice, and plenty of loaf sugar; boil them a quarter of an hour. Then strain the liquor to twelve large pippins pared and cored, stew them gently till done, and the liquor reduced to a strong syrup of a consistence sufficient to adhere to the apples, and put them into a dish. When cold serve them up with chopped cleared calves feet jelly round them.

Stewed Pippins another Way.

Proceed with the same ingredients as the preceding, but when the apples are half done lay them on a dish to cool, and add to the syrup the yolk of eight eggs and three gills of cream; then strain and set it over a fire, whisk it till of a good thickness, and let it stand till cold. Have ready boiling lard, dip the apples in batter of the same kind as for fritters, and fry them of a light colour; then drain them, and when cold serve them up with the cream under and sifted sugar over them.

Cream for Pies.

Take a pint of new milk; then add a few coriander seeds washed, a bit of lemon peel, a laurel leaf, a stick of cinnamon, four cloves, a blade of mace, some sugar, and boil all together ten minutes. Then have ready in another stewpan the yolks of six eggs and half a table spoonful of flour mixed, and strain the milk to them. Then set it over a slow fire, whisk it till it is of a good consistence, and be careful it does not curdle. When it is cold it may be put over green codlins, gooseberries, or currants, &c. in pies.

N. B. The cream may be perfumed, by adding, when nearly cold, a dessert spoonful of orange flower water, a table spoonful of syrup of roses, and a little ambergrise. Fruit pies, likewise, should be sweetened with sifted loaf sugar, covered with puff or tart paste, and when served up the top to be cut off, the fruit covered with either of the above creams, and small leaves of baked puff paste put round.

Mince Meat.

Roast, with a paper over it, a fillet of beef cut from the inside of a rump, and when cold chop it small. To two pounds of meat add two pounds of beef suet chopped fine, two pounds of chopped apples, one pound of raisins stoned and chopped, one pound of currants washed and picked, half a pound of citron, a quarter of a pound of candied orange and a quarter of a pound of candied lemon peels cut into small slices; add some beaten cinnamon, mace, cloves, allspice, a small quantity of each, a pint of brandy, and a very little salt. Then mix all the ingredients well together, put them into a pan, and keep it close covered in a cool place.

N. B. It is advised that the meat be omitted, and instead of it add one pound of the yolks of hard eggs chopped.

Compote of Oranges.

Peel and divide into quarters china oranges; then put them into a clear syrup, boil them gently five minutes, and take them out. Put into a gill of water a small quantity of cinnamon, cloves, and mace, the juice of two oranges, and a bit of the peel; boil them ten minutes, strain the liquor to the syrup, and reduce it to a strong consistence. Then put into it the quarters of the oranges, and when they are cold set them in a trifle dish, and put some cleared calves feet jelly chopped round them.

Tea Cream.

Take a pint of cream, a few coriander seeds washed, a stick of cinnamon, a bit of lemon peel, and sugar; boil them together for ten minutes; then add a gill of very strong green tea. Have ready the whites of six eggs beat up, and strain to them the cream; whisk it over a fire till it begins to thicken, then fill cups or a deep dish, and when cold garnish with whole ratafias.

Virgin Cream.

To be done in the same manner, only omitting the tea, and adding slices of citron when put into a dish.

Coffee Cream.

To be done in the same way, but instead of the liquid boil an ounce of whole coffee in the cream.

Burnt Cream.

To be done in the same manner as virgin cream, and when it is quite cold and to be served up put sifted sugar over, and burn it with a clear red-hot salamander. Put round the edge of the dish some ratafias.

Pastry Cream.

To a pint of cream add half a table spoonful of pounded cinnamon, a little grated lemon peel, three table spoonfuls of flour, two ounces of oiled fresh butter, eight yolks and the whites of three eggs well beaten, half a pound of sifted sugar, and a table spoonful of orange flower water. Put the ingredients over a fire, and when it begins to thicken add four ounces of ratafias and two ounces of pounded citron, mixing all well together. Let it stand till quite cold, then cut it into what shapes you please, and dip them singly into yolk of raw egg; then breadcrumb and fry them in boiling lard till of a light colour, drain them dry, and serve them up hot.

Almond Paste.

Blanch and pound very fine half a pound of jordan almonds, add six yolks of eggs, a sufficient quantity of flour to bind it well, an ounce of oiled fresh butter, and sweeten to the palate with sifted sugar. Mix the ingredients thoroughly in a marble mortar, and when it becomes a stiff paste roll it out, and cut it into what shapes you please; bake them, and when cold fill them with creams or jellies.

Cheese Cakes.

To three quarts of new milk add three parts of a gill of runnet; let it stand in a warm place, and when it is thoroughly turned drain it well, and mix into it with your hand half a pound of fresh butter, and sweeten to the palate with pounded sugar. Then add a few currants washed and picked, a little citron, candied orange and lemon peels cut into small slices, and an ounce of jordan almonds pounded fine. Then beat up three eggs, put them with the mixture, sheet the pans with puff paste, fill them with the curd, and bake them in a brisk oven. Or the paste may be made with half a pound of sifted flour, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and cold pump water, mixed lightly and rolled out.

Almond Nuts.

Take three eggs, their weight of sifted sugar, flour of the weight of two eggs, and two ounces of almonds blanched and pounded fine; then beat the whites to a solid froth, and mix the ingredients well with it. Have ready wafer or writing paper rubbed over with fresh butter, and with a teaspoon drop the mixture upon the paper in rows and bake them.

To make Syllabub.

To a pint and a half of cream add a pint of sweet wine, a gill of brandy, sifted sugar, and a little lemon juice; whisk it well, take off the froth with a spoon, lay it upon a large sieve, fill the glasses three parts full with the liquor, add a little grated nutmeg, and put the froth over.

Trifle.

Put into a deep china or glass dish half a pound of spunge biscuits, two ounces of ratafias, two ounces of jordan almonds blanched and pounded, citron and candied orange peel an ounce of each cut into small slices, some currant jelly and raspberry jam, a small quantity of grated nutmeg and lemon peel, half a pint of sweet wine, and a little of the liquor of the syllabub. Then make the same kind of cream as for pies, and when cold put it over the ingredients. When it is to be served up put plenty of the stiff froth of a syllabub raised high on the cream, and garnish with coloured comfits or rose leaves, which are recommended for elegance.

Tarts or Tartlets.

Sheet tart or tartlet pans with puff paste a quarter of an inch thick, trim round the edge with a sharp knife; then fill with raspberry or apricot jam, or orange marmalade or stewed apple, and put fine strings of paste across in what form you please. Bake them in a brisk oven, and be careful not to let the top colour too much.

Paste for stringing Tartlets.

Cut a bit of puff paste into pieces, mix with it half a handful of flour, a little cold water, and let it be of a moderate stiffness, and mould it with the hands till it draws into fine threads. Roll a piece out three inches long and two inches broad; then cut it into slips, draw them out singly, and put them across the tarts in any form, which may be repeated two or three times over each other, as it will add much to their appearance when baked.

To stew Apples for Tarts.

Pare, cut into quarters, and core, some apples; put them into a stewpan, add to them a piece of lemon peel, a little water, and a stick of cinnamon. Cover the pan close, put it over a fire till the apples are dissolved, sweeten to the palate with sifted sugar, add a table spoonful of syrup of cloves, and rub them through a hair sieve. Let it stand till cold before it is put into the paste.

N. B. To make a very fine flavoured tart, stew golden pippins in the same manner, and when they are rubbed through the sieve add only half a table spoonful of syrup of cloves, and mix well with it a quarter of a pound of pine-apple jam. This mixture will keep a month if close covered.

Fried Puffs with Sweetmeats.

Roll out puff paste half an inch thick, cut it into slips of three inches wide, the slips into square pieces, and put on each some sweetmeat of any kind. Fold the paste, and run a jagger iron round to form it, or cut it with a sharp knife. Have ready boiling lard, fry them of a light colour, drain them dry, and serve them up with sifted sugar over.

Pyramid Paste.

Take a sheet of puff paste rolled of half an inch thick; cut or stamp it into oval forms, the first to be the size of the bottom of the dish in which it is to be served up, the second smaller, and so on till it becomes a pyramid; then put each piece separately on paper laid on a baking plate, and when the oven is ready, egg the top part of the pieces and bake them of a light colour. When they are done take them off the paper, lay them on a large dish till quite cold, and when to be served up set the largest piece in the dish for which it was formed, and put on it raspberry or apricot jams or currant jelly, the next size on that and more sweetmeats, proceeding in the same manner till all the pieces are placed on each other. Put dried fruits round the pyramid, such as green gages, barberries, or cherries.

N. B. Instead of stamping the pieces it is thought better to cut them with a sharp knife; then to cut out small pieces round the edges to make them appear like spires, as, being done in this manner, it causes the paste to appear lighter.

Iceing for a Cake.

Whisk the whites of four eggs to a solid froth, and put to it as much treble refined sifted sugar as you can; then add the juice of a lemon, mix all well together with a spoon, and spread it over the cake when warm.

Cherries in Brandy for Desserts.

On a dry day gather the largest ripe morella cherries, and be careful they are not bruised; then cut off the stalk half way, prick each cherry with a needle four times, put them into glasses, add strong best brandy enough to cover them, and sweeten with clarified sugar. Tie over them a bladder washed and wiped dry, some white leather over that bound tight, and turn the glasses bottom upwards.

N. B. Grapes or apricots may be done in the same manner.

To make Buns.

Put five pounds of best flour into a wooden bowl, set a spunge of it with a gill of yeast and a pint of warm milk; then mix with it one pound of sifted sugar, one pound of oiled fresh butter, coriander seeds, cinnamon, and mace, a small quantity of each pounded fine. Roll the paste into buns, set them on a baking plate rubbed over with a little butter, put them in a moderate oven to prove, then wash them with a paste brush dipped in warm milk, and bake them of a good colour.

Orgeat.

Blanch a pound of jordan and one ounce of bitter almonds, pound them in a marble mortar till very fine; then put to them a pint of pump water, rub them through a tamis cloth till the almonds are quite dry, and add to the liquor more water to make it of a proper consistence for drinking; after which sweeten with clarified sugar, or sugarcandy, or capillaire; then put it into a decanter, and when it is to be used shake it together.

Orange Marmalade.

Take seville oranges when in season, which is generally at the beginning of March; cut them into halves, and the halves again into thin slices, which put with the juice, but not too much of the core, and take away the pips. To every pound weight of orange add two pounds of sifted sugar and a gill of water; then put them into a preserving pan, set the pan over a quick fire, and when the mixture boils keep stirring and skimming till it becomes of a proper stiffness, which may be known by putting a little into a saucer and setting it in cold water. Then fill the pots with the marmalade, and when cold put over white paper dipped in brandy; after which cover the pots with paper and white leather, and preserve them in a dry place for use.

N. B. In the same way try the proper stiffness of other jellies or jams, and cover them in like manner.

Raspberry Jam.

To every pound weight of ripe picked raspberries, add fourteen ounces of sifted sugar and half a gill of currant juice; put them into a preserving pan, set them over a brisk fire, and when it boils skim it well and let it simmer till it becomes of a good consistence.

N. B. The raspberries may be mashed with a spoon previous to adding the sugar, or rubbed through a wicker sieve.

Quince Jam.

Pare ripe quinces, cut them into thin slices, put them into a stewpan with a sufficient quantity of water to cover them, let them boil gently till tender close covered, and rub them through a large hair sieve; add to a pound of the pulp a pound and a half of sifted sugar and half a gill of syrup of cloves; then put them into a preserving pan, and let them simmer together till of a good strength.

N. B. A little of this jam mixed with apples in a pie will make it very good.

Green Gage Jam.

Rub ripe gages through a large hair sieve, and put them into a preserving pan; then, to a pound of pulp add a pound of sifted sugar; after which boil to a proper thickness, skim it clean, and put it into small pots.

Apricot Jam.

Take apricots when nearly ripe, pare and cut them into halves, break the stones, blanch the kernels, and add them to the halves. To a pound of fruit put a pound of sifted sugar and a gill of the water in which the parings have been boiled. Then set it over a brisk fire, stir the mixture well together till it becomes of a good strength, but let it not be very stiff.

Preserved Apricots for Tarts or Desserts.

Cut ripe apricots in halves, blanch the kernels and add them to the fruit. Have ready clarified sugar boiling hot, put the apricots into it, and let them stand till cold. Then boil the syrup again, add the apricots as before, and when they are cold put the halves into small pots or glasses, and if the syrup is too thin boil it again, and when it is cold put it to the fruit, and cover it with paper dipped in brandy.

N. B. Green gages may be done whole in the same manner, or green gooseberries with the seeds taken out. These fruits may be served up with the syrup; or they may be dried on tin plates, in a moderately heated oven, and when almost cold put sifted sugar over.

Currant Jelly.

Take two thirds of ripe red currants and one third of white, pick them, put them into a preserving pan over a good fire, and when they are dissolved run their liquor through a flannel bag. To a pint of juice add fourteen ounces of sifted sugar. Set it over a brisk fire, let it boil quick, skim it clean, and reduce it to a good stiffness, which may be known as before directed in orange marmalade.

N. B. In the same manner may be made black currant jelly, but allowing sixteen ounces of sugar to a pint of juice.

Crisp Tart Paste.

Take half a pound of sifted flour, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, two ounces of sifted sugar, and two eggs beaten; mix them with pump water, and knead the paste well.

Eggs and Bacon another way.

Boil six eggs for five minutes, then peel and cut them into halves; after which take out the yolks, put them into a marble mortar with a small quantity of the white meat of dressed fowl, lean ham, a little chopped parsley, one eschallot, a table spoonful of cream, a dessert spoonful of ketchup, a little cayenne, some breadcrumbs, and sifted mace, a very small quantity of each. Pound all well together, fill the halves of the whites with the mixture, bake them gently ten minutes, and serve them up on rashers of bacon or ham broiled, and put some cullis over them.

To make Puff Paste.

Mould with the hands a pound of fresh or good salt butter and lay it in cold water; then sift a pound of best white flour, rub lightly into it half the butter, mix it with cold spring water, roll it out, put on it (in pieces) half the remaining butter, fold the paste, roll it again, and add the remainder of the butter. Strew lightly upon it a little flour, fold it together, set it in a cold place, and when it is wanted for use, roll it out twice more.

N. B. In summer time the white of an egg beat up may be added with the water that mixes it.

To make an Almond Cake.

Take eight ounces of jordan and one ounce of bitter almonds, blanch and pound them very fine; then beat in with the almonds the yolks of eight eggs, and let the whites be whisked up to a solid froth. Then take eight table spoonfuls of sifted sugar, five spoonfuls of fine flour, a small quantity of grated lemon peel and pounded cinnamon, and mix all the ingredients. Rub the inside of a mould with fresh butter, fill it with the mixture, and bake it of a light colour.

Almond Custards.

Add to a pint and a half of cream a small stick of cinnamon, a blade of mace, a bit of lemon peel, some nutmeg, and sugar to the palate. Boil the ingredients together ten minutes, and strain it; then blanch and pound (quite fine) three ounces of jordan and eight single bitter almonds; after which rub through a hair sieve, add the fine pulp to the cream, likewise a little syrup of roses, and the yolks of six eggs beat up, and put the mixture into small cups; or it may be baked in a dish with a rim of puff paste round it.

N. B. Plain custards may be made in the same manner, but instead of almonds add a little orange flower water.

Rhubarb Tart.

Take slips of green rhubarb, wash it, and cut it into small pieces the bigness of young gooseberries; put them into a dish, sweeten with sifted sugar, add the juice of a lemon, cover it with puff paste, and bake it. Serve it up either plain or with cream, the same as for an apple pie.

Orange Pudding.

Peel four seville oranges thin, boil them till tender, rub them through a hair sieve, and preserve the fine pulp. Take a pound of naples biscuits, a little grated nutmeg, two ounces of fresh butter, and pour over them a quart of boiling milk or cream in which a stick of cinnamon has been boiled. When the ingredients are cold mix with them the pulp and eight eggs well beaten, sweeten to the palate, and (if approved) add half a gill of brandy. Edge a dish with puff paste, put in the mixture, garnish the top with strings of paste as for tartlets, and bake it in a moderately heated oven.

N. B. A lemon pudding may be made in the same manner.

Rice Pudding.

To a pint and a half of cream or new milk add a few coriander seeds, a bit of lemon peel, a stick of cinnamon, and sugar to the palate. Boil them together ten minutes, and strain it to two ounces of ground rice, which boil for ten minutes more. Let it stand till cold, and then put to it two ounces of oiled fresh butter, a little brandy, grated nutmeg, six eggs well beaten, and a gill of syrup of pippins. Mix all together, put it into a dish with puff paste round it, and bake it, taking care it is not done too much. Should the pudding be made with whole rice it should be boiled till nearly done before the cream is strained to it, and if approved a few currants may be added.

N. B. Millet or sago (whole or ground) may be done in the same manner.

Tansey Pudding.

Blanch and pound very fine a quarter of a pound of jordan almonds; then put them into a stewpan, add a gill of the syrup of roses, the crumb of a french roll, a little grated nutmeg, half a gill of brandy, two table spoonfuls of tansey juice, three ounces of fresh butter, and some slices of citron. Pour over it a pint and a half of boiling cream or milk, sweeten to the palate, and when it is cold mix it well, add the juice of a lemon and eight eggs beaten. It may be either boiled or baked.

Almond Pudding.

To be made as a tansey pudding, only omitting the french bread and tansey juice, and adding as substitutes a quarter of a pound of naples biscuits and a spoonful of orange flower water.

Marrow Pudding.

Boil with a quart of new milk cinnamon and lemon peel, and strain it to half a pound of beef marrow finely chopped, a few currants washed and picked, some slices of citron and orange peel candied, a little grated nutmeg, brandy, syrup of cloves, a table spoonful of each, and half a pound of naples biscuits. When the mixture is cold add eight eggs beat up, omitting five of the whites, and bake it in a dish with puff paste round it.

Bread Pudding.

To be made as a marrow pudding, only omitting the naples biscuits and a quarter of a pound of the beef marrow, adding as a substitute the crumb of french bread.

A rich Plum Pudding.

Take one pound of raisins stoned, one pound of currants washed and picked, one pound of beef suet chopped, two ounces of jordan almonds blanched and pounded, citron, candied orange and lemon peel pounded, two ounces of each, a little salt, some grated nutmeg and sugar, one pound of sifted flour, a gill of brandy, and eight eggs well beaten. Mix all together with cream or milk, and let it be of a good thickness; then tie it in a cloth, boil it five hours, and serve it up with melted butter over.

Batter Pudding.

To a pound of flour sifted add a little salt and a gill of milk, mix them till smooth, beat well six eggs, and add them together with more milk till the batter is of a proper thickness; then put the mixture into a bason rubbed with fresh butter, tie a cloth over, boil it an hour and a quarter, turn it out of the bason, and serve it up with melted butter, sugar, and grated nutmeg, in a sauce boat; to which may be added also (if approved) a table spoonful of white wine, or a dessert spoonful of vinegar.

N. B. When puddings are put into the pot the water in general should boil.

Boiled Apple Pudding.

Make a paste with flour, chopped beef suet, or marrow, a little salt and water; then knead it well, roll it out thin, sheet a bowl or bason with it, fill it with good baking apples pared, cut into quarters and cored; add lemon peel grated, cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon pounded fine, a small quantity of each. Lay a thin paste on the top, tie the bason in a cloth, and let the pudding boil till well done. When it is to be served up cut a piece out of the top and mix with the apples, sugar to the palate, and add a bit of fresh butter and a little syrup of quinces.

Apple Dumplings.

Pare large baking apples, core them with a scoop, fill the cavities with quince marmalade, roll out (a quarter of an inch thick) the same kind of paste as for an apple pudding, mould over each apple a piece of paste, and boil them separately in a cloth, or wash them with whites of eggs with a paste brush, and bake them. Serve them up with grated nutmeg, sifted sugar, and fresh butter, in different saucers.

Baked Apple Pudding.

Stew the apples as for a tourte or tartlets, and when they are cold add to them six eggs well beaten; put the mixture into a dish with puff paste round the rim, and bake it.

Damson Pudding.

Make paste and sheet a bason in the same manner as for an apple pudding; then fill it with ripe or bottled damsons, cover it with paste, boil it, and when it is to be served up cut a piece out of the top, mix with the fruit, sifted sugar to the palate, and a small quantity of pounded cinnamon or grated nutmeg.

N. B. Puddings made with gooseberries, currants, or bullies, may be done in the same manner.

Damson Pudding another way.

To a pint of cream or milk add six eggs, four table spoonfuls of sifted flour, a very little salt, a small quantity of pounded cinnamon, and whisk them well together. Have ready ripe or bottled damsons, rub them through a hair sieve, add to the mixture a sufficient quantity of the fine pulp to make it in substance a little thicker than batter, sweeten it to the palate, put it into a buttered bason, flour a cloth and tie over, boil it an hour and a quarter, and when it is to be served up turn it out of the bason and put melted butter over.