Spain, v. 2 (of 2)

INDEX.

Stanley Rhoads Varnall translation

Abdelasio reconstructs the Alcazar of Seville, ii. 121.

Abdurrahman I. builds the mosque of Cordova, ii. 68.

Abdurrahman I. builds Medina Az-Zahra, ii. 88;

his happy days, ii. 89.

Abencerrages, Hall of the, Alhambra, ii. 209.

Abrantes, duke d', at the bull-fights, 209.

Absolutist party,096.

Academy, a dream of the, 280.

Academy of San Fernando, Madrid, 193.

Acquasola gardens, Genoa, 10.

Alameda, Granada, ii. 188, ii. 241.

Alarcon y Mendoza, Juan Ruiz de, dramatist, 169.

Alarmed travellers, ii. 9, ii. 55.

Albaicin at Granada, ii. 244;

courtyard in, ii. 246;

fortune-telling, ii. 253;

government of, ii. 255;

ignorance in, ii. 256;

Parisian quarter, ii. 245;

squalor of, ii. 251.

Albornoz, Gil Carillo de, tomb of, Toledo, ii. 29.

Alcaiceria, Granada, ii. 241.

Alcala street, Madrid, 156, 168.

Alcanadre, Roman aqueduct at, 91.

Alcantara, bridge of, Toledo, ii. 18.

Alcazar de San Juan, ii. 259;

of Seville, ii. 120;

of Toledo, ii. 39.

Alcayde of Saragossa's bold republicanism, 83.

Aleardi Gaetano, on the can-can, 171.

Alfonso and the Cid, 121.

Alfonso the Wise, MSS. of, ii. 118;

tomb of, ii. 109.

Alfonso VIII. defeats the Moors at las Navas de Tolosa, ii. 61.

Alfonso XII., favored by the Moderate party, 96.

Algaba, ii. 118.

Algeciras, Gulf of, ii. 168.

Alhambra, arabesques, ii. 197, 208, ii. 210, ii. 211;

baths, ii. 211;

cabinet of Linderaja, ii. 209;

Charles V.'s palace, ii. 192;

Court of Lions, ii. 201;

Court of Myrtles, ii. 194;

fascination of, ii. 205;

Gate of Justice, ii. 192;

grounds of ii. 190;

Hall of Abencerrages, ii. 209;

Hall of Barca, ii. 197;

Hall of Divans, ii. 210;

Hall of Justice, ii. 206;

Hall of Oranges, ii. 209;

Hall of the Ambassadors, ii. 198;

Hall of the Two Sisters, ii. 207;

Mirador de la Reina, ii. 212, ii. 215;

mosque, ii. 216;

paintings in, ii. 207;

Patio de la Reja, ii. 212;

realization of a dream, ii. 200;

situation of, ii. 190;

Tower of Commares, ii. 196;

Tower of the Ambassadors, ii. 196;

vastness of the, ii. 217;

view from, ii. 213.

Ali Pacha, relics of, 176.

Almago, Melchiorre, republican journalist, ii. 243.

Almansa, plain of, ii. 260.

Almansur builds Zahira, ii. 89.

Almodovar, castle of, ii. 99.

Altimura, Count d', possesses the fiscal accounts of Gonzalez di Cordova, ii. 237.

Alvarez, Gen., house of, at Gerona, 16.

Amadeus at Gerona, 16;

at Logroño, 85;

at Madrid, 166, 194;

at Saragossa, 82;

at the bull-fights, 213;

at Valencia, ii. 262;

character of, 201;

courage of, 199;

court-life of, 194;

encourages bull-fights, 223, 235;

hostility of the newspapers to, 93, 200;

hostility of the soldiery to, 204;

prejudice against, 15, 33, 80.

Ambassadors, Hall of the, Alhambra, ii. 198;

at Seville, ii. 124;

Tower of the, Alhambra, ii. 196.

Amusements, 168.

Andalusian characteristics, 36;

dialect, ii. 93;

scenery, ii. 61, 100, ii. 177;

women, ii. 79, ii. 93, ii. 126.

Angels, convent of, Granada, ii. 238.

Ansurez, Pedro, tomb of, 137.

Aosta, duke d'. See Amadeus.

Aqueduct, Roman, at Segovia, 124.

Arabesques in the Alhambra, beauty of, ii. 197;

intricacy of design, ii. 197, ii. 208, ii. 210, ii. 211.

Aranjuez, arrival at, ii. 10;

gardens, ii. 12;

historic associations, ii. 11;

royal palace, ii. 11;

suburbs of, ii. 10.

Argamasilla de Alba, birthplace of Don Quixote, ii. 58.

Argensola, the brothers, 72;

sonnet by, 73.

Arjonilla, ii. 62.

Armory, royal, at Madrid, 174.

Arragon, decay of, 52;

dialect of, 54;

independence of, 49;

mountains of, 48.

Artillery museum at Madrid, 180.

Asturia, prince of, title instituted, 98.

Atocha, Church of Our Lady of, Madrid, 166, 204;

street of, Madrid, 174.

Avilo, 124.

"Awaiting her in heaven," ii. 227.

Ayala, d', dramatist, 169.

Banderillas, de fuego, 226.

Barber of Seville, house of the, ii. 132.

Barcelona, arrival at, 20;

cafés, 30;

carnival masqueraders, 22;

Catalonian peculiarities, 35;

cathedral, 24;

cemetery, 27;

Cervantes on, 42;

circus, 235;

dialect, 21;

foreign hotel waiters, 20;

palaces, 26;

revolutionary proclivities, 35;

Roman ruins, 26;

streets, 22;

suburbs, 22;

theatre, 40;

women of, 41.

Baretti, Giuseppe, 206; ii. 82.

Barili, Anton Giulio, travelling companion, 10.

Batista, Juan, architect of the Escurial, 260.

Beatrice, Queen, tomb of, ii. 109.

Beggary, modest, 135.

Berruguete, Alonzo, carvings by, at Toledo, ii. 25;

at Valladolid, 146.

Berseo, poet, 283.

Blanca, Florida, tomb of, Seville, ii. 109.

Boabdil's helmet, 176.

Boccanegra, paintings by, at Granada, ii. 229.

Bohl, Catherine de Faber ("Fernan Caballero"), 281;

ascetic character of, ii. 140;

charity of, ii. 141;

genius of, ii. 139;

history of, ii. 140.

Boldan, painting by, at Seville, ii. 109.

Bollo, a delicious cake, 31.

Boscan, Juan, poet, influence on Spanish literature, 37.

Bosch, Jacob van den, paintings by, at Madrid, 182.

Bourse, the, at Saragossa, 74;

at Valencia, ii. 266.

Brazil, Dom Pedro, emperor of, arrives at Burgos, 123.

Breton de los Herreres, Manuel, dramatist, 169, 281.

Breughel, Jan, paintings by, at Madrid, 182.

Bridge of Alcantara, Toledo, ii. 18.

Briviesca, States-general, 98.

Brujola, mountain of, 98.

Buen Retiro garden at Madrid, 166, 174.

Bull-fights at Madrid, 206;

accidents, 225;

anticipations of, 207;

arena, the, 203;

attendance, 208;

banderillas, de fuego, 226;

banderilleros, 214, 219, 220;

brutality of, 227, 229;

capeadors, 214, 217, 219, 220;

chulos or apprentices, 214, 216, 217;

dangers of, 229;

death of the bull, 222, 228;

disgusting spectacle, 218;

entrance of the cuadrilla, 214;

entrance of the bull, 215;

espadas, 221;

excitement of audience, 215, 224;

exits, the, 232;

fights in the audience, 230;

final impressions, 231;

getting into position, 215;

history of, 234;

Homeric struggle, 221;

national amusement, the, 235;

picadores, 214, 216, 218;

picturesque scene, 214;

sale of tickets, 207;

torturing the bulls into fighting, 226;

trophies of victory, 223;

with other wild animals, 239.

Bull-fighters, amateur, 237;

artistic gradations, 241;

dress, 240;

female toreros, 238;

lucrative business, 241.

Burgos, arrival at, 98;

birthplace of the Cid, 119;

cathedral, 104;

Cid's coffer, 112;

gate of St. Maria, 104;

houses, 101;

municipal palace, 103;

"remains of the Cid," 103;

seats of the first judges, 103;

"The Christ," 111;

streets, 101;

tobacco-shops, 118;

undertaker's shop, 117;

women hotel servants, 99.

Byron, Lord, writing of, at the Alhambra, ii. 216.

Caballero, Fernan. See Bohl, Catherine.

Cadiz, arrival at, ii. 158;

astronomical facilities, ii. 163;

bird's-eye view, ii. 162;

cathedral, ii. 163;

circus, 235;

commercial decay, ii. 161;

historical remains, ii. 161;

houses, ii. 160;

Murillo's last painting, ii. 163;

revolutionary tendencies, ii. 160;

streets, ii. 160;

whiteness, ii. 158;

women, ii. 164.

Cafés: Barcelona, 30;

Madrid, 173;

Miranda, 95.

Calahorra, battle of, 91.

Calderon de la Barca, Pedro, poet, 169;

ii. 93.

Calderon, Francesco, the matador, 207;

patronizes cock-fights, 249, 250.

Campana, Pedro, paintings by, at Seville, ii. 109.

Can-can at Madrid, 171.

Candan, political leader, 96.

Cano, Alonzo, character of, ii. 231;

hatred of Jews, ii. 231;

history of, ii. 230;

paintings by, at Granada, ii. 230, ii. 235;

at Madrid, 182, 193;

at Seville, ii. 132.

Canovas del Castillo, political leader, 96.

Canovist party, 96.

Carbajal, Bernardino, paintings by, at Madrid, 182, 193.

Cardenas, paintings by, at Valladolid, 143.

Cardenio's penance, scene of, ii. 60.

Carducci, Vincenzo, paintings by, at Madrid, 182;

at Valladolid, 143.

Carlists, 32, 33, 96, 194.

Carlos I., Don, tomb of, 266.

Carlos II., Don, tomb of, 266.

Carlos III., Don, tomb of, 266.

Carnival masqueraders at Barcelona, 22;

at Saragossa, 65, 68.

Cartuja convent, Granada, ii. 245.

Castaños, Gen. Francisco Xavier, defeated at Tudela, 91.

Castelar, Emilio, as an orator, 279;

as a political leader, 80, 96;

eloquence, 276;

friendship, 291;

on Arragon, 50;

personal popularity, 277;

ruler of the Assembly, 279.

Castilian dialect, 39, 55;

scenery, 124.

Castillego, ii. 55.

Castles: Almodovar, ii. 99;

Hornachuelos, ii. 99;

>Monzon, 51;

Pancorbo, 98;

San Servando, ii. 41.

Catalan characteristics, 35;

dialect, 15, 39;

dress, 18;

hospitality, 148;

school-boys, 46.

Catalonia, description of, 18, 48.

Cathedrals: Barcelona, 24;

Burgos, 104;

Cadiz, ii. 163;

Cordova, ii. 74;

Granada, ii. 229;

Our Lady of the Pillar, Saragossa, 60;

San Salvador, Saragossa, 65;

Seville, ii. 108;

Toledo, ii. 23;

Valencia, ii. 266;

Valladolid, 136.

Cava, Los Baños de la, at Toledo, ii. 46.

Cayetano, the matador, 214, 240.

Cellini, Benvenuto, crucifix by, at the Escurial, 263.

Cemetery, Barcelona, 27.

Cervantes, Saavedra Miguel de, at Seville, ii. 103;

house at Valladolid, 137;

imprisoned at Argamasilla de Alba, ii. 58;

naturalness of Don Quixote, ii. 57;

on Barcelona, 42;

popularity of, 286;

statue at Madrid, 156;

story of, 139.

Cervellon, Count di, entertains Amadeus at Valencia, ii. 262.

Cervera, 48.

Ceuta, ii. 168.

Cespedes, Pablo de, born at Cordova, ii. 90;

paintings by, at Seville, ii. 132;

quotation from, ii. 90.

Charlemagne and the Moor, ii. 43.

Charles I. (afterward Emperor Charles V. of Germany), altar at the Escurial, 272;

anger at the destruction of mosque of Cordova, ii. 74;

apartments at Aranjuez, ii. 13;

a bull-fighter, 234;

converts mosque of the Alhambra into a chapel, ii. 216;

married in Alcazar of Seville, ii. 121;

monumental gate at Burgos, 104;

on the Spanish language, 160;

palace in the Alhambra, ii. 192;

relics of, 175, 176, ii. 112;

statue at the Escurial, 262;

tomb at the Escurial, 265, 267.

Charles II. encourages bull-fights, 234;

portrait at the Escurial, 264.

Charles III. forbids bull-fights, 235;

statue at Burgos, 102.

Charles IV.'s billiard-room in palace of Aranjuez, ii. 13;

resigns the crown, ii. 11.

Chateaubriaud, François Auguste, Viscount de, writing in the Alhambra, ii. 216.

Chocolate, Spanish, 31.

Chorizos, 14, 162.

Christina abdicates the throne at Valencia, ii. 262;

promenade, Seville, ii. 104.

Chulos, 214.

Churches: Nuestra Señora, Toledo, ii. 50;

Our Lady of Atocha, Madrid, 166;

San Geronimo, Granada, ii. 235;

San Juan de los Reyes, Toledo, ii. 36;

Santiago, Saragossa, 74;

St. Agnes, Burgos, 121.

Cid Campeador, the, and King Alfonso, 121;

and the Jew, 120;

at Valencia, ii. 266;

birthplace, 120;

coffer, 112;

portrait of, 104;

remains, 103;

statue, 104;

sword, 176;

originator of bull-fights, 234.

Cigars and cigarettes, 118;

vs. pipes, 132.

Cimbrios party, 96.

Claude, Lorraine, paintings by, at Madrid, 182.

Clot, 19.

Cock-fighting at Madrid, 248;

arena, the, 249;

audience, 250;

disgusting spectacle, 256;

gambling on, 252, 254.

Coello, Claudio, paintings by, at Madrid, 193;

at the Escurial, 264.

Colantes as an orator, 276.

Collantes, Francisco, paintings by, at Madrid, 193.

College of San Gregorio, Valladolid, 135;

Santa Cruz, Valladolid, 443.

Columbian library at Seville, ii. 118.

Columbus, Christopher, annotations in books in library of Seville, ii. 118;

armor of, 175;

portrait of, 178;

mementoes of, ii. 103.

Columbus, Ferdinand, history of, ii. 115;

library of, ii. 118;

note on his father's annotations, ii. 118;

tomb of, ii. 114.

Concerts at Madrid, 173.

Conde, Henry II. de Bourbon, prince de, sword of, 176.

Conservative party, 96.

Consuelo the beautiful, ii. 81.

Consul, seeking the protection of the, ii. 106.

Convents: Angels, Granada, ii. 235;

Cartuja, Granada, ii. 235;

of the Escurial, 268;

Santo Domingo, Granada, ii. 235;

San Pablo, Valladolid, 134.

Cook, Capt. James, cane of, 180.

Cookery, Spanish, 14, 160; ii. 223.

Cordova, arrival at, ii. 62;

at night, ii. 80;

cathedral, ii. 74;

Consuelo the beautiful, ii. 81;

departed glory, ii. 62;

impressions of, ii. 67;

mosque, ii. 68;

patio, a, ii. 65;

pearl of the Orient, ii. 66;

preaching the Holy War, ii. 75;

relics of the past, ii. 80;

streets of, ii. 64.

Cordova, General de, at Saragossa, 84.

Corregio, Antonio Allegri da, painting by, at Madrid, 182.

Cortes, the, 274;

deputies, 274;

oratorical displays, 275.

Cortez, Hernando, portrait of, 178;

sword of, 176.

Cosa, Juan de la, map by, at Madrid, 178.

Costumes of peasantry: Andalusian, ii. 100;

Catalan, 18;

Cordovan, ii. 58;

Granadan, ii. 189;

Madrid, 165;

Saragossan, 56;

Valencian, ii. 270.

Country houses, ii. 100.

Courts: Lions, Alhambra, ii. 201;

Myrtles, Alhambra, ii. 194;

Oranges, Seville, ii. 115.

Court-life under Amadeus, 198.

Courtesy inherent in the Spanish people, 53, 290.

Cuco the matador, 207; ii. 94.

Currency, Spanish, 118.

Custejon, 92.

Customs officials, 14, 95.

Cybele, fountain of, at Madrid, 166.

"Daggers," ii. 55.

Daguet, paintings by, at Madrid, 182.

"Dance de los seises," ii. 112.

Darro, the, ii. 213.

Democratic party, 96.

Democratic Progressionist party, 96, 97.

Deronda, Francisco Romero, the torero, 235.

Dialects: Andalusian, ii. 93;

Arragonese, 55;

Barcelonian, 20;

Castilian, 55;

Catalan, 15, 39;

Madrid, 158;

Perpignan, 12;

Valencian, ii. 275;

Valladolid, 132.

Dinadamar, hill of, ii. 240.

Discoveries, cabinet of, Naval Museum, Madrid, 177.

Djihad, or Holy War, ii. 76.

Domenichino, paintings by, at Madrid, 182.

Dominoes, popularity of game of, 31.

Don Quixote on Barcelona, 42;

popularity of, 286;

true to life, ii. 57.

Door-keys in Madrid, 171.

Drama, 169.

Drunkenness rare in Spain, 162.

Dumas, Alexandre, on Spanish cookery, 160.

Dürer, Albert, paintings by, at Madrid, 182.

Ebro, commerce on the, 51;

description of, 92.

Economist party, 96.

Education in Granada, ii. 242.

Egon ad Agoncilla, ruins of, 91.

Elpidius, bishop of Toledo, ii. 27.

Elvira Gate, Granada, ii. 240.

Escurial, the, arrival at, 258;

altar of Santa Forma, 264;

cell of Philip II., 261;

church, 262;

convent, 268;

courtyard, 261;

gardens, 272;

gloominess, 273;

history of, 260;

holy relics, 272;

horrible place, 267;

library, 268;

pantheon, 265;

picture-gallery, 268;

royal palace, 261;

sacristy, 264;

statues, 262;

tombs, 265;

view from, 153, 272;

village, 259.

Espadas, famous, 214;

dangerous life of, 230;

skill of, 221.

Espartero, Gen. Baldemero, addresses Amadeus, 85.

Esperondo la del Cielo, house of, ii. 227.

Esproncedo, Jose de, the Byron of Spain, 282;

popularity of, 287;

quotation from, 136.

Exaggeration, the national failing, 287.

Fadrique, Don, blood of, ii. 122;

murdered by Don Pedro's orders, ii. 123.

Farcical revenge, a, 71.

Fatherly admonitions, 54.

Federalist party, 96, 97.

Ferdinand III. (the Saint) captures Seville, ii. 121;

relics of, ii. 110;

tomb of, 109.

Ferdinand V. (the Catholic), oratory in Alcazar of Seville, 124;

relics of, ii. 233;

tomb of, ii. 234.

Ferdinand VII. annuls the constitution, ii. 262;

encourages bull-fighting, 235;

tomb of, 266.

Ferrer, Vincenzo, in Seville cathedral, ii. 116.

Figueras, political leader, 80, 96.

First glimpses of Spain, 14.

Florinda, legend of, ii. 46.

Flor, Roger de, a typical Arragonese, 50.

Fomento picture-gallery, Madrid, 193.

Fortune-telling in the Albaicin, Granada, ii. 253.

Fountain of Cybele, Madrid, 166.

Fra Angelica, paintings by, at Madrid, 182.

Francis I., shield of, 176.

Frascuelo the matador, 207, 214, 221, 225, 240, 242; ii. 94;

interview with, 242.

Fricci in opera at Madrid, 168; ii. 152.

Fronterizos party, 96.

Fruit, Spanish, 162.

Fugitive wife, a, 69.

Funeral memorial ceremonies of the second of May, 243.

Galafro, legend of King, ii. 43.

Galiana, palaces of, ii. 43.

Gallegos, Don Juan Nicasio, poet, 282.

Gamero, Antonio, historian of Toledo, ii. 48.

Garbanzos, 161.

Garcilaso de la Vega, poet, 37;

armor of, 176.

Gardens: Alcazar, Seville, ii. 125;

Aranjuez, ii. 12;

Buen Retiro, Madrid, 174;

Escurial, 271;

Montpensier, Seville, ii. 117.

Garrido, political leader, 96.

Gates: Elvira, Granada, ii. 240;

Justice, Alhambra, ii. 192;

Santa Maria, Burgos, 104.

Gayangos, Pascual y, the Orientalist, 281.

Geber, architect of the Giralda at Seville, ii. 116.

Generalife, Granada, ii. 213;

description of, ii. 225;

view from, ii. 226.

Genoa, 10.

Gerona, arrival at, 16;

Amadeus at, 16.

Gibraltar, rock of, ii. 168;

Straits of, ii. 167.

Giordano Luci, paintings by, at Madrid, 182;

frescoes by, at the Escurial, 262, 264, 268;

at Toledo, ii. 30.

Giralda of Seville, the, ii. 116;

first sight of, ii. 101;

view from, ii. 117.

Gitane of Seville, the, ii. 128.

Godoy, Alvarez de Faria Rios Sanches y Zarsoa, Prince of Peace, ii. 11.

Golden Tower, Seville, ii. 103.

Gongora y Argote, Luis, poet, 129;

birthplace at Cordova, ii. 92.

Gongora, Señor, ii. 187, et seq.

Gonzales, Ferdinand (first Count of Castile), monument to, 119;

portrait of, 104;

statue of, 104;

sword of, 176;

tomb of, 114.

Gonzalez, Fernandez y, novelist, 282.

Gonzalez di Cordova, anecdote of, ii. 235;

tomb, ii. 235.

Goya, Francisco, criticism on, 185;

love of bull-fights, 184;

paintings by, at Madrid, 182, 183;

sanguinary genius, a, 184;

tapestries by, in the Escurial, 261.

Granada, Alameda, ii. 188;

Albaicin, ii. 244;

Alcaiceria, ii. 241;

Alhambra, ii. 190;

arrival at, ii. 186;

Audiencia square, ii. 244;

birthplace of famous men, ii. 243;

Cartuja, ii. 235;

cathedral, ii. 229;

church of San Geronimo, ii. 235;

convent of Santa Domingo, ii. 235;

convent of The Angels, ii. 235;

education, ii. 242;

Generalife, ii. 213, ii. 225;

markets, ii. 241;

Monte Sacro, ii. 235;

royal chapel, ii. 232;

ruins, ii. 240;

streets, ii. 187, ii. 190, ii. 241;

Vega, ii. 260.

Granada, Fray Louis de, ii. 243.

Granallers, 19.

Gravina, Admiral Frederick de, relics of, 179.

Guadaira, ill-fated steamer, ii. 146.

Guadalquivir, the, ii. 59, ii. 60, ii. 101; ii. 118, ii. 150.

Guadiana, valley of the, ii. 59.

Guerra, Fernandez, archæologist, 281, 291; ii. 187.

Guides, Spanish, persistency of, ii. 26.

Guido, Reni, paintings by, at Madrid, 182.

Guest-houses, 157.

Gutierrez, Antonio Garcia, dramatist, 169.

Halls: Abencerrages, Alhambra, ii. 209;

Ambassadors, Alhambra, ii. 198;

Barca, Alhambra, ii. 197;

Divans, Alhambra, ii. 210;

Justice, Alhambra, ii. 206;

Oranges, Alhambra, ii. 209;

Two Sisters, Alhambra, ii. 207.

Hartzenbusch, Juan Eugenio, dramatist, 169, 281, 291.

Heat, intense, ii. 260.

Henry II. (de Transtamare), defeated by Pedro the Cruel, 91;

tomb of, ii. 29

Henry III. and Papa Moscas, 113;

tomb of, ii. 29.

Hernandez, sculptures by, at Valladolid, 146.

Herrera, Francisco, paintings by, at Madrid, 182, 193;

at Seville, ii. 109, ii. 132;

at the Escurial, 263.

Herrera, Juan de, architect of palace of Aranjuez, ii. 11;

of the Escurial, 260.

Historical Progressionist party, 96.

Holy Cross, relics of the, 272.

"Honor of Spain," 290.

Hornachuelos, castle of, ii. 99.

Hospitality, Catalan, 148.

Hospital of Santa Cruz, Toledo, ii. 44.

Hotel porters at Barcelona, 20;

women as, 99.

Huerva river, at Saragossa, 77.

Hugo Victor's Mirabeau, ii. 107;

at the Alhambra, ii. 216.

"Il Trovatore," quotation from, ii. 153.

Inquisition, palaces of; at Barcelona, 26;

at Valladolid, 146.

International Socialist party, 96.

Isabella the Catholic opposed to bull-fights, 234;

oratory in the Alcazar of Seville, ii. 124;

relics of, ii. 233;

sword of, 176;

tomb of, ii. 234.

Isabella II. at Madrid, 197;

at Valencia, ii. 262;

dressing-chamber at Aranjuez, ii. 12;

encourages bull-fighting, 235;

favored by the Moderate party, 96.

Isabella, Empress, statue of, 262.

Italian, the language of opera, 171.

Italians, prejudice against, 34, 138.

Italica, ruins of, ii. 101.

Italy and Spain, compared, ii. 220.

Itimad, a dream of, ii. 125.

Jerez, circus at, 235.

Joanes, Juan de, criticism on, 192;

paintings by, at Madrid, 182, 183.

Joanna the Mad, tomb of, ii. 234.

John, Don, of Austria, 25.

John I. of Castile and the States-General, 98.

John II. of Austria, heart of, 63;

sword of, 176.

John II., admiration of de Mena's "Labyrinth," ii. 92;

tomb of, ii. 29.

John Frederick, duke of Saxony, armor of, 176.

Jordaens, Jacob, paintings by, at Madrid, 182.

Juegos floreales, ii. 172.

Julian, Count, revenge of, ii. 46.

Juni, Juan de, sculptures by, at Valladolid, 146.

Knives, ii. 135.

La Costa, Gen., killed at Saragossa, 59.

La Cruz, Ramon de, dramatist, 170.

Lagartijo the matador, 214, 240, 241; ii. 94.

La Harpe, Jean François, on the Apollo Belvidere, ii. 272.

Lainus Calvo, judge of Castile, 103.

La Mancha, ii. 56, ii. 260.

Language, Italian, in opera, 171;

Spanish, allied to the Italian, 159;

pronunciation of, 159.

See also Dialect.

Lauria, Roger de, 50.

Leon, Louis de, 54;

born in Granada, ii. 243.

Leonardo, Lupercio, sonnet to, 73.

Leopardi Giacomo, Count, 283;

ii. 9;

in Seville cathedral, ii. 111;

on Spanish pride, 284.

Lepanto, relics of battle of, 25, 174, 176.

Lerida, 48.

Light-fingered gentry, 98.

Literature, discouragements of, 282;

dramatic, 283;

national pride in, 287;

present state of, 280;

contests of genius at Cordova, ii. 94.

Logroño, Amadeus at, 85;

Moorish ruins at, 91.

Loneliness of travel, ii. 47, ii. 67, ii. 105.

Lope de Vega's criticism of Gongorist poets, ii. 93;

houses at Madrid, 156;

popularity, ii. 9.

Lorraine. See Claude Lorraine.

Louis I., tomb of, 266.

Love, travelling for, 13.

Loyola, Ignatius, at Montserrat, 46.

Luna, Don Alvaro de, tomb of, ii. 29.

Lunatic asylum, Toledo, ii. 51.

Madrazo, Federico de, paintings by, at Madrid, 183.

Madrid, academy of San Fernando, 193;

amusements, 168;

armory, 174;

arrival at, 154;

Buen Retiro garden, 174;

bull-fights, 206;

cafés, 173;

church of Our Lady of Atocha, 166;

Fomento art-gallery, 193;

guest-houses, 157;

language, 157;

markets, 174;

museum of artillery, 180;

museum of fine arts, 181;

naval museum, 177;

opera, 168;

Prado, 166;

Puerta del Sol, 155;

Recoletos promenade, 167;

royal palace, 154;

serenos, 172;

streets, 156, 163;

suburbs, 173.

Maksura of mosque of Cordova, ii. 69.

Malaga, ii. 170;

literary academy, ii. 171;

poetical contests, ii. 172;

popular characteristics, ii. 173;

streets, ii. 170;

wine of, ii. 172.

Manners of the Spaniards, 290.

Manzoni, Alessandro, 189.

Margall, Pi y, political leader, 96;

oratory of, 276.

Maria, granddaughter of Ferdinand and Isabella, tomb of, ii. 234.

Maria Louisa of Savoy, tomb of, 266.

Marini, Giambattista, influence on Italian poetry, ii. 92.

Markets: Granada, ii. 241;

Madrid, 174;

Valencia, ii. 269;

Valladolid, 132.

Marseilles, 11.

Martina the torera, 238.

Martinez de la Rosa, Francisco, 282, ii. 243;

exiled in London, 65;

quotation from, ii. 185.

Martos, political leader, 96;

oratory of, 226.

Mascagni, Donato, paintings by, at Valladolid, 143.

Masked balls, 86.

May, second of, funeral memorial ceremonies, 243;

monument to, 247.

Medina Az-Zahra, ii. 88.

Medina-Coeli, family, owners of the Casa de Pilato, ii. 136.

Mena, Juan de, "Labyrinth," ii. 92;

popularity of, 287;

street of, ii. 92.

Menendez, paintings by, at Madrid, 193.

Mengs, Anton Rafael, paintings by, at Madrid, 183.

Menjibar, ii. 259.

Merced, marquis de, 207.

Merriones, Gen., victories over Carlists, 288.

Michelangelo, Buonarroti, Cespedes's tribute to, ii. 90;

paintings by, at Burgos, 109;

at Madrid, 182.

Mihrab of mosque of Cordova, ii. 72.

Military Museum of London possesses Gonzalez di Cordova's fiscal accounts, ii. 237.

Militia system, 202.

Mirabeau, Victor Hugo's description of, ii. 107.

Miranda, 94.

Moderate party, 96, 97.

Monastery of Montserrat, 46.

Monegro, Battista, statue by, 262.

Montegna, paintings by, at Seville, ii. 109.

Montpensier gardens, Seville, ii. 117, ii. 127;

palace, ii. 104.

Montpensier, duke of, at Madrid, 197;

party, 96, 97.

Montserrat, description of, 45;

excursion to, 46;

monastery of, 46.

Monzon, 50;

castle, 51.

Moorish art, ii. 207;

ruins, ii. 240.

Morales, Ambrosio, born in Cordova, ii. 90.

Moret, political leader, 96.

Moreto, Don Augustin, dramatist, 169.

Mosque of Cordova, ii. 68;

of the Alhambra, ii. 216.

Mozarabe chapel, Toledo, ii. 29.

Mulato, paintings by, at Seville, ii. 109, ii. 132.

Murat, Joachim, 50.

Murillo, Bartolomé Esteban, a painter of saints and virgins, 191;

death of, ii. 163;

estimate of his genius, 192;

last painting, ii. 163;

mementoes of, ii. 103;

painting by, at Granada, ii. 235;

at Madrid, 182, 183;

at Seville, ii. 109, ii. 129;

statue at Madrid, 156, 292.

Naples, king of, demands an accounting from Gonzalez di Cordova, ii. 235.

Navagero, Andrea, influences poetry of Boscan, 37.

Navajas, ii. 136.

Navarrete, battle of, 91.

Navarrete, Juan Fernandez (El Mudo), paintings by, at Madrid, 193;

at the Escurial, 263.

News from Spain, 10.

Newspapers hostile to Amadeus, 93, 200.

Nun, the flirting, 53.

Nunes, Duke Ferdinand, at the bull-fight, 209.

Night journey to Aranjuez, ii. 9;

to Barcelona, 13;

to Burgos, 97;

to Cadiz, ii. 149;

to Cordova, ii. 55;

to Granada, ii. 181.

O'Campo, Florian d', at Toledo, ii. 90.

O'Donnell, Gen. Leopold, Spanish estimate of, 288.

Olesa de Montserrat, 47.

Olivares, Duke de, portrait of, by Velasquez, 183, 188;

sword of, 176.

Opera at Madrid, 168.

Oranges, Court of, Cordova, ii. 69;

Court of Seville, ii. 15;

Hall of, Alhambra, ii. 207.

Our Lady of Atocha, church of, at Madrid, 166;

of the Pillar, Saragossa, 60.

Pacheco, Francisco, paintings by, at Madrid, 193;

at Seville, ii. 132.

Padilla, Lopez de, assists in the murder of Don Fadrique, ii. 123.

Padilla, Maria de, apartments of, in the Alcazar of Seville, ii. 124, 145;

mementoes of, ii. 102.

Painting, museums: Escurial, 268;

Fomento, Madrid, 193;

Madrid, 181;

Seville, ii. 129;

Toledo, ii. 37;

Valencia, ii. 260;

Valladolid, 143.

Palaces: Audiencia, Valencia, ii. 266;

Burgos, 102;

Charles V., Granada, ii. 192;

Consistorial, Barcelona, 26;

Deputation, Barcelona, 26;

Galiana, 43;

Inquisition, Barcelona, 26;

Inquisition, Valladolid, 146;

Royal, Aranjuez, ii. 11;

Royal, Escurial, 261;

Royal, Madrid, 154;

Royal, Valladolid, 133.

Palafox, José, at Saragossa, 77.

Palma, ii. 99.

Pancorbo, 98;

castle destroyed, 98.

Paolo Veronese, paintings by, at Madrid, 182, 183.

Papal question, the, 12, 34, 138.

Papa Moscas, legend of, 113.

Pareja, Juan de, paintings by, at Cordova, ii. 58;

at Madrid, 193.

Party spirit, 96, 289, ii. 60.

Patio, described, ii. 65;

at Seville,

ii. 163;

de la Reja, Alhambra, ii. 212;

de los Arrayanes, Alhambra, ii. 194.

Patriotism vs. common sense, ii. 222.

Peasantry: Andalusian, ii. 100;

Catalan, 18;

Cordovan, ii. 58;

of Madrid, 165;

Saragossan, 56.

Pedro Abad, ii. 62.

Pedro the Cruel, apartments of, in the Alcazar of Seville, ii. 124;

defeats Henry of Transtamare, 91;

mementoes of, ii. 103;

murders Don Fadrique, ii. 122;

restores the Alcazar of Seville, ii. 120;

treasure-house, ii. 103.

Perpignan dialect, 12.

Pescara, Marquis de, armor of, 176.

Philibert, Emmanuel, armor of, 175, 176.

Philip I., tomb of, ii. 231.

Philip II., armor of, 175, 176;

birthplace at Valladolid, 134;

books in the library of the Escurial, 268;

builds palace of Aranjuez, ii. 11, ii. 13;

builds the Escurial, 260;

cell of, 261;

his personality pervades the Escurial, 271;

statue of, 262;

sword of, 176;

tomb of, 265, 266.

Philip III. encourages bull-fights, 234;

tomb of, 265, 266.

Philip IV., a royal bull-fighter, 235;

statue of, 156;

tomb of, 265, 266.

Philip V. encourages bull-fights, 235;

his garden of St. Ildefonso, 124.

Philip of Bourgoyne, carvings by, at Burgos, 111;

at Toledo, ii. 25.

Piedmontese waiters in hotel at Barcelona, 20.

Pilate's house, Seville, ii. 136.

Pillar, church of Our Lady of the, Saragossa, 60.

Pius V. presents holy relics to Ribera, ii. 137.

Pizarro, Francisco, as a bull-fighter, 234;

portrait of, 178;

sword of, 176.

Plazas: Alameda, Granada, ii. 188, ii. 241;

Campo Grande, Valladolid, 131;

Constitution, Saragossa, 74;

Cortez, Madrid, 156;

Mayor, Burgos, 123;

Mayor, Madrid, 156;

Mayor, Valladolid, 131;

Orient, Madrid, 156;

Puerto del Sol, Madrid, 155;

San Pablo, Valladolid, 133.

Poetical contests, ii. 171;

rivalry, 38.

Politeness, Spanish, 52.

Political leaders, 96.

Politics, absorbing interest in, 15, 32, 95, 147;

partisanship in, 289; ii. 267.

Pompey defeated by Sertorius at Calahorra, 91.

Poussin, Nicolas, paintings by, at Madrid, 182.

Prado, Madrid, 166.

Praga, Emile, on Nature, ii. 259.

Prati, Giovanni, quotation from, ii. 269.

Pride, national, characteristic of the Spanish, 284.

Priests, friendly, 46, 54.

Prim, Gen. Juan, assassination of, at Madrid, 156, 166;

high estimation of, 288.

Puchero, the national dish, 161.

Puerto del Sol, at Madrid, 155, 163;

at Toledo, ii. 18.

Puerto Real, ii. 162.

Puerto de Santa Maria, ii. 162;

circus at, 238.

Pyrenees, the, 48, 92;

crossing the, 13.

Quintana, Manuel José, poet of the Revolution, 282, 291.

Quevedo, Francisco Gomez, on Valladolid, 129.

Radical party, 96.

Railway travel, 52; ii. 55; ii. 175.

Raphael, paintings by, at Madrid, 182, 183.

Rasura, Nunnius, judge of Castile, 103.

Recoletos promenade at Madrid, 167.

Rembrandt von, paintings by, at Madrid, 182.

Republican opinions, 15, 16, 32, 80;

of the soldiers, 205;

party, 96, 97.

Restaurants, Cordova, ii. 81.

Revenge, a farcical, 71.

Ribera, Enriquez de, builds the Casa de Pilato, ii. 136.

Ribera, José, criticism of his genius, 186;

a lover of the horrible, 188;

paintings by, at Madrid, 182, 183;

at the Escurial, 264.

Ribera, Pedro Afan de, viceroy of Naples, ii. 137.

Ribero, political leader, 96.

Ricanati, quotation from, ii. 14.

Rinconado, ii. 101.

Rios, Amador de los, critic, 281.

Rivas, Duke de, 282.

Rizzi, Francisco, paintings by, at Madrid, 193.

Roa, Ferdinand de, kills Don Fadrique, ii. 123.

Roderic and the enchanted tower, ii. 45;

and Florinda, ii. 46.

Roelas, Juan de las, paintings by, at Seville, ii. 109.

Rojas, Francisco de, 169;

native of Toledo, ii. 49

Rodriguez as an orator, 276, 291;

political leader, 96.

Roman aqueduct at Alcanadre, 91;

at Segovia, 124;

ruins at Barcelona, 26.

Ros de Olano invents the soldier cap, 24.

Rosas, Rios y, political leader, 96;

oratory of, 276.

Resell, Gen., at Saragossa, 84.

Rubens, Peter Paul, paintings by, at Madrid, 182, 183;

at Valladolid, 144.

Ruins of Alcanadre, 91;

Egon ad Agoncilla, 91;

Logroño, 91.

Ruiz Garcia, political leader, 96.

Saavedra, Señor, 291, 292.

Sagasta, Praxedes Mateo, political leader, 79, 96, 97;

a modern Cardenio, ii. 60.

St. Agnes, church of, Burgos, 121.

St. Andrea de Palomar, 19.

St. Anthony of Padua, Murillo's, ii. 129.

St. Eugenia, tomb of, ii. 29.

St. Eulalia, tomb of, 28.

St. Ferdinand, chapel of, Seville, ii. 109.

St. George Chapel, Barcelona, 26.

St. Ildefonso, garden of Philip V., 124.

St. Isadore, memorial ceremony at church of, 244.

St. James, the first bishop of Toledo, ii. 23;

and the Virgin Mary, 61.

St. Lawrence, Philip II.'s vow to, 260;

relic of, 272.

St. Leucadia, tomb of, ii. 29.

St. Theresa, birthplace of, 124;

inkhorn of, 272;

mementoes of, ii. 103.

Salamanca, a suburb of Madrid, 167, 208.

Salvator Rosa, paintings by, at Madrid, 182.

Salvini, Tommaso, as Samson, ii. 107.

San Fernando, Madrid, academy of, 193.

San Geronimo, church of, ii. 235.

San Ginés, church of, ii. 44.

San Gregorio, college of, 135.

San José, church of, Madrid, 204.

San Juan de los Reyes, church of, ii. 36.

San Pablo, convent of, 134.

San Quentin, Philip II.'s vow at battle of, 260;

relics of, 174.

San Salvador, Saragossa, 65.

San Servando, castle of, ii. 41.

Santa Cruz, hospital of, ii. 50.

Santa Cruz de Mudela, ii. 58.

Santa Cruz, Marquis of, armor of, 176.

Santa Domingo, convent of, ii. 235.

Santa Maria, gate of, Burgos, 104.

Santa Maria la Blanca, synagogue of, ii. 38.

Santi Ponce, ii. 118.

Saragossa, 56;

alcayde's bold

speech, 82;

Amadeus enters, 82;

arrival at, 55;

Bourse, 74;

carnival maskers, 65, 68;

cathedral of Our Lady of the Pillar, 60;

cathedral of San Salvador, 65;

church of Santiago, 74;

costume of peasantry, 56;

masked balls, 87;

new tower, 75;

siege of, 59, 77;

streets, 58;

suburbs, 91.

Sarto, Andrea del, paintings by, at Burgos, 109;

at Madrid, 182.

Schoen, paintings by, at Madrid, 182.

School-boys, 46.

Shrack, Frederick, description of the Djihad, ii. 75.

Sea, beauty of the, ii. 157.

Sebastian of Portugal, a royal bull-fighter, 234.

Segovia, 124.

Segovia and Ardizone, Gonzalo, ii. 130, 132, 145;

sad fate of, ii. 146.

Seneca, born in Cordova, ii. 90.

Seo, Saragossa, 65.

Serenos, 172.

Serrano, Gen. Francesco, political leader, 96, 97;

reputation of, 288.

Sertorius defeats Pompey at Calahorra, 91.

Seville, Alcazar, ii. 120;

at night, ii. 106;

Barber of, ii. 132, 14;

cathedral, ii. 108;

Columbian library, ii. 118;

gaiety of, ii. 143;

gardens, ii. 125;

Giralda, ii. 101, ii. 116;

house of Pilate, ii. 136;

literary and artistic fame, ii. 139;

museum of painting, ii. 129;

Oriental character, ii. 102;

patios, ii. 133;

poetical character of, ii. 142;

streets, ii. 120;

Torre del Oro, ii. 103, 117;

tropical heat, ii. 120;

women of, ii. 126.

Sierra de Segura, ii. 61.

Sierra Morena, ii. 59, ii. 62, ii. 118, ii. 260.

Sierra Nevada, ii. 214, ii. 226.

Siestas necessary, ii. 79.

Socialist party, 96.

Soldiers, 23;

political feeling shown by, 204;

reviewed by Amadeus, 202.

Soria, 124.

Stagno in opera at Madrid, 168.

Streets of Barcelona, 22, 27;

Burgos, 101;

Cadiz, ii. 160;

Cordova, ii. 64;

Granada, ii. 187;

Madrid, 166;

Malaga, ii. 170;

Saragossa, 58;

Seville, ii. 102;

Toledo, ii. 17;

Valencia, ii. 265.

Studying for a degree, ii. 238.

Tagus, the, at Aranjuez, ii. 12;

at Toledo, ii. 17.

Tamayo, dramatist, 169, 281, 291.

Tangiers, ii. 168.

Tarifa, Cape, ii. 167.

Tasso, Torquato, influence on Italian poetry, ii. 93.

Tato, the one-legged torero, ii. 262.

Teniers, David, paintings by, at Madrid, 182.

Theatres at Barcelona, 40;

at Madrid, 168;

and literature, 169, 282.

Tiepolo, Giovanni Battista, paintings by, at Madrid, 183.

Tintoretto, Giacomo, paintings by, at Madrid, 182;

at the Escurial, 264.

Tirso de Molina, dramatist, 169.

Titian, paintings by, at Madrid, 182, 183.

Tobacco manufactories at Burgos, 118;

at Madrid, 173;

at Seville, ii. 127;

cigarettes vs. pipes, 132.

Toledo, Alcazar, ii. 39;

arrival at, ii. 17;

at night, ii. 47;

bridge of Alcantara, ii. 18;

cathedral, ii. 23;

church of San Juan de los Reyes, ii. 36;

church of San Ginés, ii. 44;

church of Nuestra Señora di Transito, ii. 50;

dead city, a, ii. 48;

historical, ii. 22;

hospital of Santa Cruz, ii. 50;

legends of, ii. 43;

lunatic asylum, ii. 51;

manufactory of arms, ii. 50;

popular characteristics, ii. 48;

Puerto del Sol, ii. 18;

Santa Maria la Blanca, ii. 38;

view from cathedral, ii. 34;

silent and gloomy, ii. 21;

streets, ii. 19.

Tolosa, Las Navas de, battlefield, ii. 60.

Topete, Juan, ii. 60.

Toreros, 213;

dangers of, 229;

dress of, 240;

highly respectable, 239;

lucrative business, 241.

Torrigiano, Pietro, sculptures by, at Granada, ii. 229.

Torquemada, Tomas de, founds the convent of Santa Domingo, ii. 235;

origin of, 235.

Torre del Oro, Seville, ii. 103.

Tower, new, Saragossa, 75;

Golden, Seville, ii. 103.

Trafalgar, relics of, 179.

Trajan's ashes brought to Seville, ii. 138.

Travelling for love, 13;

amenities of, 48, 52;

miseries of, ii. 177;

opera troupes, ii. 153;

philosophy of, ii. 224;

soldiers, ii.

Triana, ii. 118.

Tudela, battle of, 91;

canal, 51, 92.

Undertaker's shop, 117.

Unionist party, 96, 97.

University students at Granada, ii. 238;

at Valladolid, 148.

Val de Peñas, ii. 58;

wine of, 162; ii. 58.

Valencia, ii. 265;

Amadeus at, ii. 262;

art-gallery, ii. 267;

bull-ring, 235; ii. 262;

Casa de Ayuntamiento, ii. 266;

cathedral, ii. 266;

dress of peasantry, ii. 270;

historic houses, ii. 262;

Lonja, ii. 266;

market, ii. 269;

palace of the Audiencia, ii. 266;

popular characteristics, ii. 271;

streets, ii. 266;

women, ii. 271.

Valdes Leal, Juan de, paintings by, at Seville, ii. 109, 132.

Valera, Señor, 291.

Valladolid, 129;

cathedral, 136;

convent of San Pablo, 134;

college of San Gregorio, 135;

decay of, 131;

dialect of, 132;

hospitality, 148;

house of Cervantes, 137;

house of Zorilla, 141;

Inquisition, 146;

markets, 132;

picture-gallery, 143;

Plaza Major, 132;

polite beggary, 135;

royal palace, 133.

Van Dyke, Antonio, paintings by, at Madrid, 182, 183.

Vega, Granada, ii. 260.

Vega, de Armijo, Marquis de, 207.

Vega, Garcilasso de la, armor of, 176;

native of Toledo, ii. 49.

Velasquez, Don Diego, masterpieces, 188;

mementoes of, ii. 103;

paintings by, at Madrid, 182, 183.

Ventas de Alcolea, ii. 62.

Ventura de la Vega, dramatist, 169.

Veragua, duke of, 207.

Victoria, at Madrid, 195;

charity of, 196;

learning of, 199;

universal respect for, 81, 200.

Vilches, ii. 61.

Villadomat, paintings by, at Barcelona, 26.

Villaseca, dowager of, 307.

Vinci, Leonardo da, paintings by, at Burgos, 109.

Virgin Mary appears to St. James at Toledo, ii. 27;

miraculous image of, 61;

robes of, ii. 31.

Walk of the Spanish women, 136.

War of Independence influences Spanish national character, 35, 285;

relics of, 174.

Water abundant in the Alhambra, ii. 226.

Wife, a fugitive, 69.

Wine of Malaga, ii. 172;

Val de Peñas, 162; ii. 58;

Xeres, ii. 155.

Women of Barcelona, 41;

Cadiz, ii. 164;

Cordova, ii. 79;

Madrid, 165;

Saragossa, 57;

Seville, ii. 126;

Valencia, ii. 271;

Valladolid, 136;

toreros, 238;

walk of Spanish, 136.

Xenil river, ii. 213.

Xeres, wine of, ii. 155.

Ximenes, wife of the Cid, remains of, 103.

Zafra, Don Fernando de, legend of, ii. 228.

Zahira, ii. 89.

Zainete, 170.

Zarzuela, the, 168, 170; ii. 154, ii. 156

Zorrilla, Ruiz, political leader, 86, 69, 97;

consents to accept office, ii. 268.

Zorrilla, José, 281;

birthplace at Valladolid, 141;

influence on Spanish literature, 141;

on people of Toledo, ii. 48;

popularity of, 142.

Zouave officers, 11.

Zuera, 54.

Zurbaran, Francisco de, paintings by, at Cadiz, ii. 163;

at Madrid, 193;

at the Escurial, 264;

at Seville, ii. 109, ii. 132.