Volume 2 — INDEX.

Aborigines of South America

— names and peculiarities of divisions, 129, 130

— territories, language, 131, 132

— numbers, 133

— Patagonians, size, colour, dress, height, huts, arms, horses, country, 133-137

— Fuegians, territories, the ‘Yacana’ tribe, the ‘Tekeenica,’ appearance, dress, arms, huts, canoes, country, 137-141

— the ‘Alikhoolip,’ finer race, wigwams, country, 140, 141

— ‘Pecheray’ tribe, 141

— ‘Huemul’ tribe, partaking both of Patagonian and Fuegian habits, dogs, ‘zapallos,’ 141, 142

— ‘Chonos’ tribe, 142, 143

— further details of Patagonians, 144-174

— of Fuegians, 175-188

— Chonos Indians, 189-197

— at Chilóe, 380

— Huilli-che, 380-384

— near Valdivia, 398-401.

Abrolhos, 63

— Massey’s lead, 64

— anchorage, height, birds, turtle, fish, remarks on squalls near, 65, 66, 78, 506.

Aconcagua, height, 425, 481.

Adventure, schooner, purchased, 274

— story, 275

— at Maldonado, 283-292

— at Port Desire, 316

— plans, 322

— at Port Louis, 331, 332

— survey, at Port Famine, 358

— in Cockburn Channel, 359

— enters Pacific with Beagle, at Chilóe, 360

— Valparaiso, 361

— sold, 361, 362.

Aigle Rock, supposed, vainly sought for, 357.

Alau island, old native there, 387.

Alerse forests, 391.

Alligator, at Feejee Islands, 562.

Andes, Cordillera of the, 349, 351, 352

— drainage, 353, 354

— view of, height, 481

— fossils, 667.

Andres San, Bay, 369, 370.

Anegada Bay, Spanish ship wrecked in, 287, 288

— sounded, survey, 289.

Antonio San, Cape, coast near, 97.

—— San, Port, 311.

Araucanians, chief, hordes, 106

— notice of, 149

— horsemanship, 160

— laws, 164

— Colipi, son, 431

— battle, Villagran, 435, 436

— curious story, Caciques, 439-441

— country, cattle, cottages, 442

— ‘ranchos,’ 443

— dress, features, cloth, ornaments, 463, 464

— boys, oratory, 478.

Arauco, 437

— ‘Comandante,’ 438

— Ercilla, caciques, Colocolo, story, election of supreme chief, curious trial, Caupolican, Indian attack, 439-442

— town again seen, 464.

Argentina, grotesque group near, ‘Comandante,’ suspicions, 102, 103

— ‘fortaleza,’ ‘gauchos,’ inhabitants, advantages, 104, 105

— alarm caused by Beagle, 112, 113.

Arica, coast near, 482.

Ariel rocks, vain search for, 119.

Armadilloes, four kinds, 107.

Arrival in England, 638.

Aura island, murders, 519.

Ayres, Buenos, 94, 95.

Bahia, or San Salvador, currents before reaching, scenery, present state, 60

— slavery, its evils, 61, 62

— city described, 63

— survey, shoals, current, ship’s course, 64, 78.

Bahias Dos, Cape, 305.

Bank Yngles in River Plata, 92, 286.

Barometer, 49, 83

— fall and changes before ‘pampero,’ 86, 91

— in gale, 226

— at Falklands, 244, 245

— anomaly near Valdivia, 396

— before great earthquake, 411, 412.

Beagle at Falmouth, 2

— paid off, 7

— recommissioned 14, 17

— outfit, 18-22

— plan of voyage, 24-41

— detention, 42

— course, 44, 45

— at Santa Cruz, 48

— Cape Verde Islands, 51

— Fernando de Noronha, 59

— Bahia, 60

— passing Cape Frio, 66

— at Rio de Janeiro, 73-81

— equipment described, 82

— in River Plata, 85

— danger in Pampero in former voyage, 87

— at Monte Video, 94

— Port Belgrano, 101-110

— Blanco Bay, 111

— under Monte Hermoso, 112

— at Buenos Ayres, Monte Video, 114

— San Blas, 116

— goes towards Tierra del Fuego, weather, 117

— extraordinary white-coloured space of sea, 118

— off Santa Inez, 119

— in Good Success Bay, passes Cape Horn, 122

— in St. Martin Cove, 124

— off York-Minster heights in heavy gale, 125

— loses boat, 126

— in Goree Road, 127

— in Scotchwell Bay, under sail during bad night between Wollaston and Navarin Islands, 223

— Packsaddle Bay, 224

— Good Success Bay, 225

— Berkeley Sound, 227, 268

— Johnson Cove, 270

— in gale off River Negro, 281

— at Monte Video, Maldonado, 282

— proceedings, 283, 286

— at San Blas Banks, 286

— River Negro, Port Belgrano, 288

— sails with H.M.S. Snake, returns to Monte Video, 292

— strikes a rock in Port Desire, 317

— Port San Julian, 318-321

— passes First Narrow, 322

— at Woollya, 323

— Port Louis, 327

— River Santa Cruz, 336

— Cape Virgins, 357, 358

— new route, 358 (note)

— under sail in Cockburn Channel, 359

— Valparaiso, 361

— San Carlos, 363

— among Chonos Islands, 364-378

— San Carlos, 378

— soundings along coast of South Chile, 396

— Valdivia, 397

— Talcahuano, 402

— Valparaiso, 419

— Concepcion, 421

— narrow escape, Maule, 424

— proceedings, 424-426

— refit in Herradura Cove, 426, 427

— Valparaiso, 428

— Callao, 482

— at Galapagos Islands, 484-505

— at Low Islands, 506

— discovers islands, 507, 508

— Otaheite, or Tahiti, 508-557

— Navigators, Friendly, and Feejee Islands, 559-562

— at New Zealand, 563-619

— ‘Three Kings’ islets, 620

— Port Jackson, Sydney, 621

— Hobart Town, 623

— King George Sound, 624

— Keeling Island, 628

— Mauritius, Cape of Good Hope, St. Helena, Ascension, Bahia, Cape Verde and Azores Islands, arrives in England, 638.

Beagle Channel, 218

— tide, 219.

Beauchesne Island, 327.

Belgrano Port, 100, 101

— fossils, animals, fish, 107

— climate, tides, pumice-stones, 108

— Beagle there again, 288.

Bellaco Rock examined, tides, refraction, 318, 319.

Berkeley Sound, 227

— lights on hills, 276

— re-visited, 327

— shallow soundings thence to River Santa Cruz, 336.

Birds, flight of, indicates direction of land, 557, 558, 628.

Blanco Bay, shore between it and Cape Corrientes, without anchorage, tosca, 99, 100.

Blanco Cape, tide-races, 303

— coast near, salinas, guanacoes, 304.

Blas San, Bay, 116, 117

— banks, 286, 287

— Liebre and Paz there, Indians, 296, 297.

Boats, excursion to Woollya, 202-206

— arrival there, 207

— on westward exploration, pass Murray Narrow, canoes, Shingle Point, 215

— endangered by fall of ice-cliff, 217

— enter Beagle channel, difficulties, 218

— return to Woollya, 220

— in Ponsonby Sound, Button Island, 223

— yawl swamped, 276

— up Chupat River, 307

— excursion up River Santa Cruz, 337-357

— whale-boat in Chonos Archipelago, 363, 364

— boat exploration of Chilóe Archipelago by Lieut. Sulivan and Mr. Usborne, 364, 366, 378

— northwards by Mr. Stokes, 367

— proceedings 374, 375

— boat excursion (in 1829), 393-395

— expeditions under Lieut. Sulivan, Mr. Chaffers and Mr. Mellersh at Galapagos, 485, 486, 489-497.

Boroa Indians, light coloured, origin, 402

— further notices, 465.

Brett Cape, 564, 565.

Brightman Inlet, fish, 295.

Brisbane, Mr. 270

— account of ruin of Port Louis, 271

— murdered, 327, 328

— burial, character, shipwreck, 332-335.

Butterflies, singular flight of, 117.

Button Island, 223.

Bynoe, Mr. Benjamin, 19, 21

— skill and kindness, 77, 78

— accompanies Fuegians on shore, 127

— anecdotes, 180, 181

— account of Indians near Gulf of Trinidad, 197, 198

— remarks on Easter Bay, large deserted canoes and wigwams, 199

— various notices, 200

— at Woollya, 320

— River Santa Cruz, 337-356

— lands on James Island, Galapagos, 497

— weather during stay, 500.

Calbuco, meaning of word, 377

— origin of name, 387.

Calbucanos, mode of life, 390

— alerse planks, astillero, 391

— loads, land-slips, 392.

Callao, 482.

Camarones Bay, wood, water, grass, Indian tombs, 305.

Carlos, San, 363

— climate, 386.

Carmen, Del, Nuestra Señora, Patagonians near, 145

— situation, houses, 298

— fort, inhabitants, ‘Estancia del Rey,’ settlers, Indians, 299

— anecdotes, 300

— customs and manners, trade, coal, 301

— Paz and Liebre there, 311

— wild fowl, hunting, Indian attack in 1783, 313, 314.

——, American schooner, hired to go for Challenger’s crew, 468

— met dismasted, 473

— sketch of cruise, 474, 476.

Carrasco, Don Eduardo, Hydrographer at Lima, renders material assistance to Expedition, 484.

Castro, 382

— climate, 386.

Catharina, Santa, good harbour, inhabitants, 83.

Cattle, wild, hunt, at Falklands, 279-281.

Cavahi Island discovered, 508.

‘Cesares, Los,’ rumours of settlement, 287

— Spaniards’ visit and description of it, 392, 393.

Chaffers, Mr. 270

— sails in Adventure, 274

— at Gorriti, 284

— examines inlet and river at Port Desire, 316, 317

— ascends River Santa Cruz, 337

— examines Hood Island, and other places in Galapagos Islands, 485, 497.

Challenger, H.M.S. at Falklands, 328

— search for murderers, 329, 331

— report of loss, 428

— confirmed, 429

— Blonde sails to assist, 430

— party go over land, 431

— ferry, estate, Don Juan Rivera, 432, 433

— Colcura, 434

— Villagran, Chivilingo, 436

— coal, Carampangue, 437

— Arauco, 437-442

— country, Indians, 443

— Quiapo, 444

— bad travelling, 445, 446

— Tucapel, Valdivia, 447, 448

— Leübu, party reach Challenger’s crew, 449

— account of wreck and subsequent events, 451-460

— party’s return, Quiapo, ‘Ulpu,’ cattle, 461

— river, rancho, 462

— Araucanians, 463, 464

— Boroanos, Tubul River, 465

— journey, 466, 467

— Blonde, 469

— goes to relieve Challenger’s crew, 469

— delays, mistake, 470, 471

— reach Leübu, 472

— embarkation, 473

— Talcahuano, 475

— H.M.S. Conway receives crew and sails, 479

— causes of wreck, 480.

Chilóe, inhabitants, 379

— Indians, religion, 380

— foreign settlers, kindness, barter, 381

— fish, coal, towns, discovery, 382

— population, decrease, mines, 383

— early notices, name, pirates, Spaniards, 384

— Indians’ regret of Spanish government, tithes, oppression, 385

— anecdote, tasks, patriots, climate, 386

— good sites for docks, tide-streams, 387

— Chilote voyages, 392

— deserters, Padre Forastes, expedition, 394

— ‘vaqueano,’ search, 395

— meteoric appearances (note), 395

— earthquake, 416.

Chiut Island, strawberries, 387.

Chonos Indians, 130-142

— boy on board Adeona, cannibalism, hostilities, 189

— ‘Niqueaccas,’ quickness, religious ideas, ceremony, 190

— burial-places, anecdote, ‘cubba,’ 191

— charm, sagacity, local knowledge, pilotage, 192, 193

— mode of declaring war, honesty, anecdotes, 195, 196

— at Chilóe, 380

— former numbers, 383.

Chonos Archipelago explored, 363-366

— notices, early voyages, 367-369

— further remarks, 374-377.

Chupat River, discovered, 306

— described, Spaniards, cattle hunts, 307

— entrance, 308, 309, 353.

Clive, Lieut., burial, 335.

Clouds, remarks on, 65, 66, 502

— over low land, 506, 507, 563.

Cobija, 481.

Cockburn Channel, bad weather, Beagle under sail in, 359.

Colcura, heights of, hamlet, 434, 435.

Coliumo, 417, 424.

Colorado River, wolf seen near, 251, 295, 296

— communication with Union Bay, 296

— gale, ‘freshes,’ 302.

Concepcion, earthquake, preceding signs, 402

— destruction of city, 403, 404

— situation, anecdotes, 405

— mutual assistance, 406

— waves, 413-417

— elevation and depression of land, 420

— fossil shells, 421-423

— coal, 424

— re-visited, rebuilding, houses, Peruvians, 476, 477

— country, 479.

Conchali, smuggling, 426.

Constitucion, vessel lent by Don Francisco Aguilar, goes with Mr. Usborne, 283, 284.

——, another vessel so named, lent by Don Francisco Vascuñan at Coquimbo, surveys coast, 427

— at Callao, usefulness, 482

— bought to survey coast of Peru, 483

— sails, 484

— (for proceedings see Sulivan, and Usborne).

Conway, H.M.S., passing through quantities of pumice-stone and ashes, 108, 109

— receives crew of H.M.S. Challenger, 479.

Coquimbo, 427-479.

Corcovado, volcano, 376, 394.

Corrientes, Cape, rocks, 99

— reported shoal, 292.

Cruz, Santa, capital of Teneriffe, appearance, 48.

——, river, explored, 336

— estuary, banks, ‘steppes,’ cliffs, 337

— barrenness, animals, climate, 338

— mud-banks, tides, views, 339

— water, 340

— change of scenery, cold, 341

— tracking, instruments, 342

— frost, ostriches swimming, 343

— rapidity of stream, smoke, Indian tracks, 344

— ‘Indian Pass,’ rapids, windings, quantities of shingle, 345

— heights, wastes, want of fuel, 346

— temperature of air and water, earth cliffs, progress, lava cliffs, 347

— lava district, ‘Basalt Glen,’ wild scene, 348

— mirage, driftwood, boat stove, Andes, 349

— guanacoes, birds of prey, bed of river, 350

— views, weather, country, 351

— walking party, direction of river, 352

— velocity, trees, water, colour and temperature, drainage of Andes, sources, 353

— Lake Viedma, or Capar, rivers, floods, 354

— level of river, bones, 355

— wild cats, return, mountains, rapid descent, fish, 356.

Currents near Bahia, 60

— Abrolhos, 64

— near Cape Frio, 70, 71

— in Plata, 93, 226

— from Tierra del Fuego and Staten Land to Falklands, 242, 243

— near Mocha, 419

— extraordinary, 480

— near Galapagos, 484, 486, 488, 496

— and temperature, 505, 562

— Bay of Islands, 563

— on passage from New Zealand to Port Jackson, temperature of water, 621

— near North Keeling Island, 638.

Cutfinger Cove, striking scenery, immense canal, 202.

Dangerous Archipelago (see Low Islands).

Darwin, Mr. Charles, volunteers as naturalist, 18, 19

— fossils near Point Alta, 106

— pumice-stones, 108

— accompanies party with Fuegians on shore, 127

— goes in westward exploration, 215

— saves boats, 217

— at Maldonado, 284

— plans, 286

— at Argentina, 288

— River Negro, 312

— obtains interesting account of Indian attack on Carmen, 314

— search for fresh water at Port San Julian, 320

— ascends Santa Cruz, 327

— goes away at Chilóe with Lieut. Sulivan, 364

— rejoins Beagle, 366

— excursions, 379-425

— lands on James Island, 497-500

— at Otaheite, 510-512

— notices of natives, 522, 527, 543, 557

— at New Zealand, 570

— arrival in England, 638.

Darwin, Mount, 215

— height, 216

— Sound, 217, 218.

Deluge, remarks on facts with reference to, 657-682.

Desertas Islands, 386.

Desire, Port, coast from, to Valdes Creek, examined by Paz and Liebre, 282

— Indians’ traces, wells full, 303

— inlet examined, 316

— river, rock, 317, 322.

Desolation, Cape, 218.

Diego San, Cape, breakers, 119, 120.

Divide, Point, burning-tree, slate, rock, 219.

Dogs, Patagonian, 151, 167, 174

— Fuegian dogs trained to catch birds while roosting, 184

— hunting, 187

— fine animals, taught to bring in food, birds, hunt fish, 187

— described, 201

— at King George Sound, 627

— at Keeling Islands, fishing, 634.

Douglas, Mr., engaged to collect information, 363

— survey in boats, 364

— remarks on Huilli-che superstitions, 388-390

— on Calbucanos, 390, 391

— Chilotes, voyages, father’s account of ‘Los Cesares,’ 392, 393.

Earle, Mr. Augustus, engaged as artist, 19

— obliged to return to England, 20.

‘Eight stones,’ vain search for, 46.

Elena, Santa, Port, 305.

Equator, passages out and home, 3, 4

— absurd ceremonies in crossing, 57

— notice of by Kotzebue, 58.

English Bank (see Banco Yngles).

—— —— (San Carlos), nature of bank, 378.

Estevan, San, or Stephen’s Port, distressed sailors, 370

— story, 371, 372.

Falklands, bad weather, 226

— aspect of land, wrecks, 227

— position, number, asserted claims of various countries, 228, 237

— Buenos Ayrean ‘comandante’ appointed, subsequent events, England re-asserts her sovereignty, H.M.S. Tyne and Clio re-hoist her flag, 238-240

— shores, violent winds, tides, remarkable currents, 241-243

— storms, 244

— seasons, temperature, 245

— harbours, 246

— country, 247

— peat, animals, 248

— wild cattle, horses, foxes, 249-252

— changes and transport of animals, 253

— rabbits, whales, 254

— fish, 255

— birds, brushwood, fuel, grass, 256

— soil, potash, 257

— increase of animals, 258

— vegetable productions, trees, 259

— plants, balsam, 260

— rushes, improvements, colonizing, 261

— suggestions, 263

— cattle, pilotage, 264, 265

— ports, wool, 266

— Vernet’s establishment, 266-269

— events there, 270

— ruined settlement, 271

— lights, 276, 277

— fossil bones, 277, 278

— wild-cattle hunts, 279-281

— sad occurrences there, 327-335.

Famine, Port, 321, 322.

Feejee Islands (native name, Navahi), dangerous navigation, natives, cannibalism, 559

— white men among them, ‘Charles,’ cautions, treachery, dealing with savages, 560, 561

— canoes, trade, alligator, bones, winds, 462.

Fernandez, Juan, effects of great earthquake, Ulloa, volcanic appearance at the summit of Yungue (note) 418.

Fire, mountain forests on fire, give rise to reports of volcanoes, 203, 204.

First Narrow, tide, 321, 322.

Forastes, Padre, entices men to desert, 393

— search for them, 394, 395.

Fossils in Port Belgrano, 107

— in San Salvador Bay, 278

— near Tilly Road, 304

— curious, near Concepcion, 421-423

— in Andes, 667.

Foxes of Falkland Isles, apparent varieties, 250

— remarks, 251

— changes produced by food, climate, 252

— transport, 253, 254

— fox called ‘culpen’ in Araucania (note) 450.

Friendly, or Tonga Islands, missionaries, opposition, Mariner’s account, 559.

Frio, Cape, 67, 70

— currents, 71, 72.

Fuegians, account of those brought home, 1

— cannibalism, fate of old women, feelings on seeing strange sights, 2

— ages, reasons for being brought to England, 4, 5, 6

— vaccinated, 7

— ‘Boat-Memory,’ catches small-pox, 8

— death, 9

— character, plan for educating others, 10

— journey to London, anecdote, Walthamstow, 11

— kind treatment, improvement, at St. James’s, 12, 13

— private arrangements for their return, changed by Beagle’s re-commission, 13, 14

— at Plymouth, 15

— presents, 16

— ‘Fuegia,’ at Botafogo Bay with English family, 80

— natives seen near Cape Peñas, remarks of those on board, pleasure at being near home, 119

— meeting with large and fine men, 120

— remarks, paint, laughed at by ‘York,’ and ‘Jemmy,’ anecdotes, 121

— ‘York-Minster’s’ duplicity; he, Jemmy, and Fuegia leave Beagle for the shore, 127, 128

— meet natives, remarks, 203

— friends, Jemmy learns his father’s death, conduct, language, 204

— ‘York’s’ jealousy of Fuegia, Jemmy’s stories, 205

— Oens (or Coin) men, 205, 206

— natives, scenery, 207

— arrival at Woollya, precautions, natives come in numbers, 208

— meeting between Jemmy and his family, 209

— his mortification, 210

— ‘doctor,’ 211

— Jemmy, York, and Fuegia established in wigwams, anecdotes, 213, 214

— change on boat’s return, Jemmy plundered, 221

— sorrowful remarks on his savage brethren, boats leave them, 222

— re-visit them, better hopes, another interview with, 323

— Jemmy and family, 324

— York’s treachery, Jemmy’s story, 325

— improvement, gratitude, parting, 326, 327.

Fuegian tribes, general sketch of, 130, 137-142

— features, 175

— hair, diversity of appearance, form, colour, 176

— paint, caution, 177

— food, ‘doctor,’ wizard, 178

— elders, superstitious ideas, 179-181

— death, burial, 181

— marriage, relationship, 182

— cannibalism, war, 183

— cooking, weapons, bird-catching, 184

— food, drink, occupations, 185

— swimming, women diving, illness, children, training, guanaco-hunting, 186

— anecdotes, fire, pyrites, 187

— language, 188

— at Woollya, 207-210

— astonishment at fire-arms, 211, 212

— large wigwam, 215

— numerous at Woollya on boat’s return, 220

— troublesome conduct to Matthews and his companions, 221

— presents on leaving them, 222

— ‘Yapoos,’ 323

— Oens-men, 325, 326

— language, 358.

Funchal Roads, 46.

Galapagos, appearance, Chatham Island, haziness, surf, craters, current, 485

— ripplings, shores, iguanas, 486

— lava, terrapin, trees, Stephens Bay, rocks, birds, fish, 487

— tortoises, current, water, 488

— weather, turtle, shells, mangroves, 489

— Charles Island, volcanoes, heights, settlement, 490, 491

— animals, vegetables, craters, Albemarle Island, formation, 492, 493

— wild scene, lava cliffs, 494

— Tagus Cove, anchor in crater, 495

— extraordinary appearance, 496

— James’ Island, settlers, oil, 497

— winds, weather, Chatham Island, anchorage, soil, 498

— MacGowen shoal, Charles Island, salt, 499

— salt in crater, woods, Albemarle Island and other islets, 500, 501

— rains, moisture, 502

— birds’ beaks, terrapin, 503, 504

— migration, 505.

Gales, 3, 51, 83, 91, 98, 112, 123, 124, 125, 126, 225, 226, 243, 244, 281, 289, 297, 302, 303, 306, 563

— at Keelings, 637.

Gallegos River, 353.

‘Gauchos,’ 276

— dress, appearance, 278

— at Port Louis, murder, settlers, 328-331.

George, St., Bay, tide, 304.

George, King, Sound, aspect of country, 624

— settlement, local attraction, tides, 625

— natives, ‘corobbery,’ 626

— feast-day, dog, aborigines, 627

— burial, fish, 628.

Glaciers, 215

— tints, icebergs, fall of ice cliff, 216

— effect on sea, danger of boats, beauty of scenery, 217.

Goree Road, 127.

Gorriti, ship refitting, 284

— absurd reports in consequence, 292, 293.

Green Island, water, animals, 295.

Gregory Bay, natives near, 168-173.

Guaianeco Islands, wild potato, 200.

Guanacoes, very large near Good Success Bay, 122

— Fuegians’ chase of, 186, 187

— weight, 305

— near New Bay, 306

— near Santa Cruz, 338

— numbers, 349

— size, 350, 355.

Hamond, Mr. Robert N., joins Beagle, 115, 120, 127

— in Beagle Channel, 215

— returns to England, 284.

Harris, Mr. W. Snow, lightning conductors of his invention, 18.

Harris, Mr., pilots Beagle, 101

— at Argentina, 102

— schooners hired from him, goes as pilot in one, 110, 111

— excellent conduct, 288

— anecdote of, 311.

Hellyer, Mr., drowned, 272

— burial, 273.

Herradura Cove, near Coquimbo.

Hobart Town, or Hobarton, 624.

Hog Island, 296.

Honden Island, 506.

Hope Harbour, Transport schooner wrecked there, 273.

Horcon Bay, 425.

Huafo, position, cove near, 365, 366

— sheep, Indians, 377, 378.

Huampelen, Mount, or Huamblin, 366.

Huaytecas Islands, oysters, 375

— volcanoes seen from them, Indian names, meanings, 376, 377.

Huemul, 144 (note).

Huilli-che, 379

— religion, 380, 381

— migration, 384, 388

— superstitions, witchcraft, ‘bruxos,’ 388-390

— ‘Juncos’ and ‘Rancos,’ tribes near Valdivia, features, dress, feelings, curious customs, traditions, Deluge, ‘Chem,’ ‘Minga,’ 400, 401.

Icebergs, notices of, probably taken for rocks in some instances, 118

— ice-cliffs, 216, 217.

Iguanas, at Galapagos, 486

— orange-coloured, 495, 496.

Inchemo Island, goats, 372.

Inez, Santa, Cape, 119.

Instructions, 22-42.

Ipun Island (Chonos), 367, 375.

Islands of, Bay, easy of access, Whale rock, 564, 565.

Islay, white powder, 482.

Jackson, Port, 621.

Jago, St., Island of, current near north point, 51.

Jaguars, 97.

Janeiro, Rio de, 72, 73

— observations, 74

— difference in meridian distances, 75

— Beagle’s measurement confirmed, 78, 80, 82, 83.

Jason Islands, tide-races near, 242.

Javali, or Hog Island, 296.

Johnson, Mr. C. R., joins Beagle, 20

— in Adventure at Falklands, 281.

Johnson Cove, French crew there, 268-275.

José, San, Port, cattle hunts, 307

— massacre of Spaniards, 308

— tides, desolation, wreck, 311

— remarkable ripplings near, 312.

Julian, San, Port, bar, 319

— search for water, 320

— settlement, former scenes there, whaler, tides, 321

— swell, 322.

Keeling Islands, birds’ flight, appearance of islets, Port Refuge, tide-guage, 629

— soundings, reefs, discovery, 630, 631

— inhabitants, slavery, trade, 632

— curious crab, turtle chase, fish eating coral, 633

— fishing-dog, coral formations, 634

— animals, water, natives, christenings, observations, 635, 636

— storms, 637.

Kelp, 243

— indicates rocks, remarks, cautions, 246, 247.

King, Capt. P. P., 1

— promotion, 8

— letter, 23

— ice, 216

— notices of Chilóe, 381, 382

— alerse, 390, 391, 393.

King, Mr. P. G., 12, 20, 21

— in Liebre, 294

— in Constitucion, 427

— Elizabeth Bay, 494.

‘Kings, Three,’ islets, tide-races, 620, 621.

Kororareka Harbour, 565

— village, 566

— huts, 577

— cooking, church, 578

— estuary, 581.

Krusenstern, Admiral, chart of Low Islands, 506.

Leübu River, 446

— encampment, 449, 456-460

— error, 470, 471

— Bay, 473.

Liebre, schooner, hired to assist survey, reasons, 110, 111

— in River Negro, 286

— discharged, 288

— sketch of proceedings, 295-314.

Lightning, conductors, 18

— effects on Thetis, St. Elmo’s fire, 80, 81

— Heron corvette struck, 81

— sets fire to bushes, 304

— curious notices, 539 (note).

Lights on hills, singular, 276

— conjectures as to cause, 277.

Lima, 484

— inhabitants, 642.

Lizard, at New Zealand, 619, 620.

Look-out, Cape, 319.

Louis, Port, 261

— settlement, 266, 267

— destroyed, 268, 271

— murders, occurrences, 327, 328

— search for murderers, 329, 330

— new settlement begun, Rivero taken, 331.

Low Islands, Dangerous Archipelago, or Paamuto Islands, 506, 507

— missionary labour, natives, Chain Islanders, 518.

Low, Mr., 2, 129, 145

— anecdote, 168

— opinions, notices of Patagonian natives, boy on board, 169-174

— takes Chonos boy on board Adeona, details of Chonos tribe, 189-197

— potatoes, anecdote, 200

— at Falkland Islands, 273, 274

— cattle-shooting, 281

— narrow escape, 328

— engaged as pilot, 331

— examines Chonos Archipelago, 363, 364, 367.

Low, Port, 374

— fresh provisions, piraguas, wild potato, 375

— view, Meli-moyu Mountain, 376.

Macacu River, fever, malaria, causes, 76, 77.

Madeira, 46.

Magdalen Channel, fine scenery, 359.

Magellan, Le, wrecked, 269

— crew’s transport, 373

— in Beagle, 281.

Malaspina Cove, lightning, 304.

Malays at Keeling Islands, 632, 637.

Maldonado, pampero, 88

— village, 93, 282, 284, 285

— absurd reports, 293.

Man, origin and migration of, 639-657.

Mar-chiquito, salt lagoon, no opening to the sea, 97

— country near, hills, their usual direction, as well as that of rivers and inlets between Plata and Cape Horn, 98

— immense herd of cattle, 99.

Maria, a Patagonian woman, 145, 146

— met again, 322.

Maria, Santa, Island of, upheaval, 412, 413

— beds of dead shell-fish, 414

— depression of land, 420

— appearance, 436.

Martin, St., cove, cliffs, weather, 124.

Martha, Santa, gales, 83

— shores, 84.

Massey’s lead, 55, 64.

Matavai Bay (see Otaheite).

Matthews, Richard, goes as missionary to Tierra del Fuego, 15, 16

— first meets savages, 122

— accompanies Fuegians from Beagle, 127

— anecdote, 179

— steadiness, 205

— arrival at Woollȳa, 207-210

— established and left in wigwam, 212, 213

— anxiety for, safety, 220

— story, danger, 221

— re-embarks, 223

— decides to remain with his brother at New Zealand, 605.

Maule River, effects of great earthquake there, 417

— surf, village, bar, 424

— advantages, 425.

May Harbour, cypress trees, otter, 375.

Medanos Point, banks near, 97.

Melo Port, 298.

Mellersh, Mr., 19

— examines Hood Island, 486

— Elizabeth Bay, 494-496.

Mendoza, river near, 286, 287.

Missionaries (Spanish), 373

— (Otaheitan) efforts of in Low Islands, 518

— (English) at Otaheite, 510

— anecdotes, 514-517, 523, 524, 542, 544, 545

— influence, 550

— on Navigators and Friendly Islands, 559

— at New Zealand, 567-575

— difficulties of first mission there, 579

— influence, 583-588

— distinctions, 601, 602

— proper spirit, 604, 605

— obstacles at New Zealand, 611, 612

— effects of exertions, 613, 614

— embarrassments, 615

— purchase of lands, 616-618.

Mocha Island, survey, earthquake, 402

— waves, 414

— incidents, 415

— survey, rocks, Indians, 419.

Montes Tres, Cape, 369.

Murray, Mr. Matthew, 4, 5, 11.

Murray Narrow, passed by boats, 215-220.

Musters, Mr. Charles, 20

— death of, 76.

Narborough Island, 365, 366

— excellent port, strawberries, produce, 374

— structure, tides, 375.

Navigators Islands, murders, success of missionaries, 559.

Negro River, 286, 287, 288

— ‘freshes,’ banks, produce, floods, plough, 298

— survey, bar, 302, 303

— massacre of Spaniards, 308

— Paz and Liebre detained there, 311

— floods, mouth and bar examined, 312

— wild fowl, 313.

New Bay, 305

— bad weather, soil, 306

— settlement, 308, 309.

Noir Island, wigwams, 365.

Noronha, de Fernando, 58

— surf, citadel, population, scenery, precautions, 59.

Nott, Mr., senior missionary at Otaheite, translation of Bible, 517.

Obstruction Sound, 198

— large canoes and wigwams deserted, swan-traps, deer, 199.

Oens, or Coin men, inroads, 205, 206

— at Woollȳa, 325, 326.

Organ Mountains, 80, 82.

Osorno, Mount, in eruption, 378

— height, form, 379.

Ostriches near river Santa Cruz, 338

— swimming, 343.

Otaheite, or Tahiti, view, 508

— scenery, Matavai Bay, canoes, natives, 509

— traffic, dress, Point Venus, 510

— chiefs, native houses, 511, 512

— curiosity, fair, theft, singing, 513

— taboo-marks, tombs, ‘aito,’ sugar-mill, 514

— Papiete, cottages, 515

— natives, shells, Papawa, 516

— Otaheitan Bible, weather, 517

— old ‘Ua,’ diseases, 520, 521

— industry, anecdotes, curious relics, 522

— church, congregations, 523

— recreations, children, ‘Hitote,’ 524

— Queen Pomare, audience, 524, 525

— customs, 527

— meeting with queen and chiefs, 527-542

— pilotage among coral reefs, 542

— school-house, service, ‘Hitote,’ extempore prayer, 543

— songs, school, natives teaching each other, children, 545

— discussion, intelligence of natives, communication of news, ‘Mare’s’ letter, 546

— ‘Paofai’s’ letter, children of early missionaries, classes of natives, 547

— proportions, attire, moral conduct, 548, 549

— prohibition of spirits, harsh usage of infirm, anecdotes, 551

— domestic manners, 552

— snuff, provisions, seizure of the Newton, 554

— Pearl fishing, steering, 555

— Queen’s letter, natives pay her debts, taking leave, 557.

Oven, the, singular spot described, water, 304.

Paamutos (see Low Islands).

Packsaddle Bay, 224.

Paihia, missionary settlement in New Zealand, 566.

Pampas, 85

— absence of trees, 93

— droughts, herds of cattle, fertility, 94

— on eastern coast, 97.

Pampero, in River Plata, 85-89.

Papiete (see Otaheite).

Papudo, 426.

Patagonians, general sketch of 129-137

— details, physiognomy, friendliness, size, wanderings, 145

— clothing, 146

— arms, ornaments, 147-149

— food, hunting, dogs, 150, 151

— huts, sleeping-places, 152

— marriages, domestic state, 153

— children, cradles, 154

— health, sickness, 155

— funeral ceremonies, 156-160

— warfare, horsemanship, racing, cards, 160

— religious ideas, 161

— worship, 162

— witchcraft, 163

— sacred tree, government, caciques, 164-166

— warfare, horses, 166, 167

— moral restraints, 167

— anecdotes, traffic, 168

— San Leon, partiality for white men, subdivisions, 169

— boy-chief, ‘Capitan Chups,’ behaviour, 170

— ‘Chico,’ Fuegians, trade with them in slaves, 171

— counting, time, language, respect to age, cookery, 172

— women, gratitude of boy, 173

— emigrations, 174

— in Gregory Bay, 322.

Patch Cove, 372, 373.

Paul, St., Rocks, or Peñado de San Pedro, examined, multitudes of birds, sharks, 56

— current, 57.

Paz, schooner, reasons for hiring to extend survey, 109, 110

— refit, 111, 112

— off River Negro, 286

— discharged, 288

— sketch of proceedings, 295-314.

Peat at Falklands, 248, 256.

Pembroke, Cape (Falklands), 226.

Peñas, Gulf of, wild potato, ‘pangue,’ 200.

Penco, 420

— castle, 421

— coal, 423.

Peru, coast of, survey, 483.

Pichidanque, 426.

Plata River, entrance, width, depth, shoals, currents, pamperoes, 85-88

— effects on river, 89

— level of river and ocean, 91

— fluctuations, Yngles Bank, 92

— tides, want of trees, 93, 94

— observations on, 115.

Pococke, Cape, 565.

Pomare, New Zealand, 581.

Pomare’s tomb, at Otaheite, 514.

Pomare Vahine, Queen of Otaheite, 516

— arrival at Papiete, dress, 524

— attendants, audience, reflections, 525, 526

— consort, meeting, chapel, 527

— Queen’s appearance, chiefs, 528

— conduct, interpreter, 529

— affair of the Truro, discussion, 530

— Paamuto piracy, 531

— generosity of natives, 532

— arrangements, murderers, 533

— missionaries, decree against enlisting for foreigners, 535

— ‘Mare’ judge, appeal, case of Venilia, misconduct of her captain, letter from Otaheitans to British Government, 536, 537

— smuggling, questions, chiefs pleased, meeting ends, 541

— good feeling, 542

— Queen visits Beagle, fireworks, songs, 544

— conduct, 545, 546

— letter, attendants, taking leave, 556, 557.

Ponsonby Sound, boats there, natives, curious volcanic effects, 223.

Praya Port, anchor there, 51

— beauty of country in interior, 52

— fruit, population, 53.

Puma, 107

— mode of killing colts, 313

— large one shot, party followed by one, 357.

Quiriquina Island, 406, 407, 409, 411.

Rafts, easily constructed, 647

— now used, 648.

Ramirez, Diego, islands, 124.

Rasa Point, stream of tide, 297.

Refuge Port, Spanish chart, 373.

Return to England, 638, 639.

Roberts, Mr., engaged as Pilot for Liebre schooner, 110

— anecdote, 117

— satisfactory conduct, parted from, 288.

Roussin, Baron, difference in measurement of meridian distance from Bahia to Rio, 75

— Beagle’s measurement confirmed, 78, 79.

Rowlett Island, wild potatoes, 374.

Rowlett, Mr., 19, 20

— remarks on country near Port Praya, 52, 53

— death of, 360.

Sanborombon Bay, 91

— sounded, 292.

Santos, 84.

Savage, not the primitive state of man, 650.

Scotchwell Harbour, (Ipun), 223, 374.

Sebastian, San, Bay, bank, 322, 323.

Shingle Point, 215.

Ship Island, tide-stream, 305.

Simon, Jean, cattle-hunt, 279, 280

— murdered by ‘gauchos’ at Port Louis, 328.

Simon’s Bay, 638.

Skyring Mount, 277.

Snake, H.M.S., sailing, build, remarks on ships, 289-292.

Socorro, Nuestra Señora del, island, 364-366.

Sounding, anecdote, 226

— depths, 674, 676.

South Cape, Indian tomb, 305.

Spencer Cape, 122, 123.

Starve Island, 289.

Staten Land, wigwams, 365.

Stebbing, Mr. George James, engaged to attend to instruments, 19.

Stewart Island, 218.

Stewart, Mr., Puma-shooting, 357

— in boats at Chilóe, 364

— in Constitucion, 427.

Stokes, Mr. John Lort, 21

— takes command of Paz schooner, 110

— and of Liebre, 283

— survey, 286

— returns to Beagle, 288

— account of proceedings in Paz, 295-302

— survey of River Negro, 302

— at Port Desire, 303

— in Chupat, 306

— surveying, 307

— anecdote, 310

— occupations, 315

— remarks on Bellaco rocks, 318

— at Port San Julian, 319

— ascends River Santa Cruz, 337

— explores and surveys part of Chonos Archipelago in whale-boat, 367, 374, 375

— at Galapagos, 493

— notices of terrapin, 503, 504

— of Otaheitans, 551, 552

— of New Zealanders, 586.

Success, Good, Bay, natives, 120

— fish, 225.

Sulivan, Lieut. B. James, appointed to Beagle, 14, 288, 336

— goes with boats to survey Chilóe, 364-366

— returns to Beagle at San Carlos, 378

— notices of Indians, 385, 386, 387

— takes command of ‘Constitucion,’ 427

— at Callao, 482

— goes with boat to examine Galapagos, 486, 497.

Swan Islands, meeting of tides, 242.

Sydney, light-house, town, 621

— drought, aqueduct, position, 622

— disadvantages, money-making, 623.

Tahiti (see Otaheite).

Tairo Island, discovered, 508.

Talcahuano, 402

— great earthquake, rise of sea, effects, 406, 407

— dogs, shipping, 408

— anecdotes, motion of sea, 409

— sub-marine explosions, fish killed, 410

— height of wave, contrasts, 411

— Araucanian boys, 478.

Taytao, or Taytaohaohuon Cape, rocks, 372.

Teneriffe, view of Peak, 47

— measurements from thence, quarantine, 48.

Thetis frigate, account of her loss, 66-70

— causes, 70, 71.

Tide in Plata, 89, 93

— near Point Rubia, 116

— near Cape San Diego, 120

— in S.W. arm of Beagle Channel, 219

— stream of tide near Falklands, 226

— strength, direction, times, height, 241, 242

— off Point Rasa, 297

— rise in St. George Bay, 304

— off Ship Island, and Cape Dos Bahias, race near New Bay, 305

— Valdes Creek, 309

— terrific ‘races’ there, 310

— ripplings and races near Port San José, 311, 312

— in First Narrow, 321

— in Santa Cruz, 337, 339

— velocity of river, 340, 344, 351

— at Ipun, May Harbour, 375

— near Chilóe, 387, 388

— off ‘Three Kings,’ direction, temperature, 620.

Tolten River, Indians, coast near, bar, 402.

Toriano, an Araucanian cacique, death of, 106.

Tosca, 99, 100.

Topocalma shoal, 425.

Trinidad, Gulf of, natives, a fine race, feathers, paint, 197

— plank canoes with oars, arms, 198.

Tubul River, 414.

Tucu-tucu, the, 313.

Tuyu, mud-bank, 292.

Unicorn schooner, 273

— considerations, purchased, named Adventure, (see Adventure).

Union Bay, 286, 287.

Usborne, Mr. Alexander Burns, 20

— goes in ‘Constitucion’ to assist Mr. Stokes, 283

— returns to Beagle, 288, 314, 315

— goes away in boats, 364

— at San Carlos, 378

— takes command of Carmen schooner to Leübu river, meets Blonde, 469

— bad weather, adventures, 474

— escape, skill, 475

— takes command of another vessel called ‘Constitucion,’ plan of expedition, 483

— receives kind assistance, 484

— return to England, having completed his survey, 638, 639.

Valdes Creek, entrance, 98

— tides, shifting bar, dangers, 309, 310.

Valdivia, port, forts, rivers, ‘Yntendente,’ secretary, 397

— town, aborigines, 398-401

— convicts, 401

— great earthquake, motion, 415

— shocks, 416.

Vallenar Road, 366, 369.

Ventana Mount, mines, 105

— height, 109, 295.

Verde, Cape, Islands, observations on anchoring, gales, 51, 52

— exports, 53

— ‘orchilla’ weed, vegetables, sickly season, 54

— dust, 55.

Vernet, Louis, appointed ‘comandante’ at Falklands, proceedings, 238, 239, 255

— settlement, 266

— delusion, 267

— ruined 268.

Video, Monte, mutinous negroes, 95.

Villagran, battle, Ercilla, 435, 436.

Villarica mountain, height, 481.

Villarino, 314.

Virgins, Cape, 222, 357.

Waimate, 598

— situation, appearance, corn, gardens, farm, 601

— cattle, poultry, houses, 602

— barn, water-wheel, 604

— mill, Shunghi’s grave, English oaks, missionary families, 604

— spirit, 606

— valley, Kauri pine, woods, 606.

Water, white, extraordinary space of sea, supposed cause, 118.

Weddell Bluff, 340.

Whale-boat Sound, 218.

Wickham, Lieut. John Clement, 14, 21

— takes command of Paz and Liebre, 111, 112, 116, 117

— examines Indian graves, 168

— cattle-hunt, 280-282

— arrives to take command of Adventure at Gorriti, 284

— proceedings in Liebre, 295

— remarks on coast near Point Rasa, 297

— Rio Negro, 298

— Del Carmen, 299

— on Indians and Spanish settlers, 300, 301

— in Blanco Bay, River Negro, 302

— at Port Desire, 303

— discovers Chupat River, 306, 307

— in great danger, 310

— plans, 322

— meets Mr. Low, engages him as pilot, at Port Louis, 331

— sails again, 332

— in Port Famine, 358, 360

— at Valparaiso, Santiago, 361

— returns to Beagle, 362

— arrives in England, 638.

Wigram, Rev. Joseph, kindness to Fuegians, 10, 11.

William, Port, (Falklands) 227

— tides, 242

— suggestions for a settlement, advantages, 261, 262

— accessibility, exports, 263.

Whylootacke, or Wailutaki, 557.

Williams, Corporal, drowned, 282, 302.

Wilson, Rev. William, admits Fuegians into infant school at Walthamstow, 10

— kindness, 11, 12

— letter, 14

— selects missionary to go out with them, 15, 16.

Wilson, Belford Hinton, effective assistance, 484.

Windhond Bay, 225.

Wolf near Colorado River, 296.

Wollaston Island, 225.

Wood Mount, 319.

Woollȳa, pleasant situation, natives, arrangements, 208, 209

— wigwams and gardens made, natives assist, 210

— fair prospects, curiosity of natives, 211, 212

— boats depart, 214

— re-visited, 220

— events during absence, 221

— missionary removed, difficulties, 222

— re-visited, pleasing scene, occurrences, 224

— events there, 323-327.

Zealand, New, 564

— Kororareka, Tipuna, 565

— natives’ flag, 566

— Paihia, natives, 568

— decrease of population, 569

— colour, salutation, manner, war-canoes, 571

— prospects of country, former savages of Britain, 572, 573

— bones, tree, fern, 574

— church, 575

— British Resident’s house, vines, Kororareka, 576

— huts, 577

— cooking, church, burying-places, 579

— anecdotes, Waripoaka, island, 580

— Cawa-Cawa, Pomare, estuary, 581

— pleasing scenes, traffic, 582

— flax, meeting, chiefs, 583

— curious dispute, rats, game, 584

— precise division of territory, purchase of land, 585, 586

— spirits, ‘Noah,’ native wine, church, 586, 587

— oxen, sick, preserving food from damp, nets, burial, 588

— Christmas, Divine service, remarks, singing, 589

— state of the place, measures, 590

— causes of disturbance, 591, 592

— suggestions, influence of ships of war, 593

— Polynesian interest, resources in Pacific, 594, 597

— excursion to Waimate, Waitangi Creek, running guides, activity, country, 599

— woods, native village, agriculture, flax, manufacture, 599

— chapel, fine-looking native, country easy of access, 600

— curious bird, 601

— Waimate, 601-606

— valley, horses, bridge, woods, Keri-keri waterfall, beautiful scene, 606

— English children, natives fond of them, 607

— Waripoaka visits Beagle, ‘La Favorite,’ Rangateedas, 608

— political condition, relics, 609, 610

— departure from, 611

— remarks, 612, 613

— settlements, trade, 614, 615

— discontent of settlers, 616

— pine-forests, 618

— North cape, singular superstition, great lizards, 619, 620.