NARRATIVE, &c. &c. (continued 3)

I have been more particular in relating this expedition, because it will serve as a specimen of the general manner in which the Indians procure their supplies of venison 219 and deer-skins. There have been instances of taking the rein-deer alive, by throwing a rope about the antlers; but this can only be attempted by a boat, as the sudden plunges of the animal, when thus entangled, is very likely to upset a slight bark canoe.

From the continual crossings that we had made athwart the stream, whilst in pursuit of the deer, the current had drifted us down about two miles below our encampment, which we did not regain until towards evening; and our Indian neighbour soon paid us a visit, to talk over the day’s sport. Having received another present of Scutee Wapper[36] (rum) and tobacco, he wished us a good-night; and their songs shortly afterwards began to swell on the air; giving to us a sure indication of the liquor having had its due effect on their senses.

220

To conclude my account of the rein-deer of Hudson’s Bay, I must observe, that they are evidently the same species with those of Lapland; although the Indians have never attempted to render them in any way useful for domestic purposes: but Lord Selkirk, with his usual perseverance, has procured people from Sweden to train the rein-deer in Hudson’s Bay; although they have not yet been a sufficient time in the country to ascertain the practicability of such a scheme[37].

221

If the Indians be so fortunate, during their hunting journeys, as to kill a rein-deer in the woods, they eat of it until they literally cannot cram another mouthful. When their meal is finished, they erect a high stage, on which they lay the remainder of the carcase, so as to secure it from the wild beasts; and then cover it with branches of trees, to defend it against the birds of prey. All this trouble is taken, that the food which they are compelled by necessity to 222 leave behind them may be of service to some wandering tribe of hunters like themselves, who may not have been so fortunate as to have met with any deer in their journey.

When, therefore, in traversing the immense plains or forests of the interior, a half-famished Indian descries at a distance one of those charitable stages erected on high for his relief, he hails the cheering sight with the same feelings of delight that is experienced by a tempest-tost and bewildered sailor, when he descries, through the dark clouds of a stormy night, the cheering fire-beacon which denotes the situation of a sheltering port. Whenever an Indian has satisfied his hunger at one of the stages in question, he marks the supporting poles with the character peculiar to his tribe; so that those to whom he is indebted for relief may perceive, on their 223 return, whether their friends have benefitted by their humane intentions. And it is a singular point of honour amongst them, that if, by the characters before mentioned, they should discover that the stage had been erected by an hostile tribe, they will rather suffer the severest pangs of hunger than be obliged to their enemy for relief.

Upon our return to the factory from the deer-hunt, we found much anxiety prevailing respecting the safety of a small schooner, which had sailed hence, on our arrival, to bring the furs from Churchill River, and had not yet returned. There was the more foundation for such apprehensions, as it blew a heavy gale on the day after her departure, and she must consequently have been overtaken by it before she could have possibly reached her destined port. However, it was determined to wait her return until 224 the 28th of September, when prudence dictated our departure, to avoid the risk of a detention for the whole winter. In the mean time, we occupied our time in procuring a stock of fresh provisions against the day of sailing. Accordingly, a party of Indians were despatched in pursuit of game; and in a few days they returned with eleven hundred wild geese, which they had shot in the marshes to the southward of York; and several other parties of the natives poured in a copious supply of venison and wild duck.

Nor were we idle ourselves, as we constantly drew the seine in the mouth of the river; but the supplies of fish thus obtained were exceedingly trifling. Of those we caught, the principal part consisted of mullet, and tittameg, a small delicate fish peculiar to the rivers of Hudson’s Bay.

225

Before I quit entirely this almost unknown country, I shall insert an extract from an author whose observations will serve materially to illustrate my own[38].

“The animals of Hudson’s Bay are, the moose-deer, stags, rein-deer, bears, wolves, foxes, beavers, otters, lynxes, martens, squirrels, ermines, wild-cats, and hares; of the feathered kind, geese, bustards, ducks, partridges, and all manner of wild fowl: of fish, whales, morses, seals, cod, sea-horses, and sea-unicorns: and in the rivers and fresh waters, pike, perch, carp, and trout. There have been taken in one season, at Nelson River, 90,000 partridges, as large as hens; and 25,000 hares. Every thing changes white in winter; even European animals after being a short time in the country.

226

“The inhabitants shew great ingenuity in kindling a fire, in clothing themselves, and in preserving their eyes: in other respects, they are very savage[39]. In their shapes and faces they do not resemble the Indians, who live to the south: they are more like the Laplanders and Samoeids of Europe, from whom they are probably descended. Those on the sea-coast are dexterous in managing their kiacks or boats[40]. The other Americans seem to be of a Tartar original.

“In 1670, a Charter was granted to a Company, which does not consist of more than nine or ten persons, for the exclusive 227 trade to this Bay; and they have acted under it ever since, with great benefit to themselves. The fur and peltry trade might be carried on to a much greater extent, were it not entirely in the hands of this exclusive Company; whose interested, not to say inquisitive spirit, has been the subject of long and just complaint. The Company employ four ships, and 130 seamen[41].

“The French destroyed the forts in 1782, valued at 500,000l. The Company export commodities to the amount of 16,000l. and bring home returns to the value of 29,340l. which yield to the revenue 3,734l. This includes the fishing in Hudson’s Bay.

“This commerce, small as it is, affords great profits to the Company, and is 228 advantageous to Great Britain in general; for the commodities we exchange with the Indians, for their skins and furs, are all manufactured in Great Britain; and as the Indians are not very nice in their choice, those things are sent of which we have the greatest plenty, and which, in the mercantile phrase, are drugs with us.——Though the workmanship, too, happens to be, in many respects, so deficient, that no civilized people would take it off our hands, it may nevertheless be admired by the Indians. On the other hand, the skins and furs we bring from Hudson’s Bay enter largely into our manufactures, and afford us materials for a lucrative trade with many nations of Europe. These circumstances tend to prove incontestably the immense benefit that would redound to Great Britain by throwing open the trade to Hudson’s Bay; since, even in its present restrained 229 state, it is so advantageous. The exclusive Company, it is probable, do not find commerce so advantageous now as it was before we got possession of Canada. The only attempt made to trade with Labrador has been directed towards the fishery.

“From the journeys of M^cKenzie and Hearne, a complete confirmation has arisen, that there can be no northern communication between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, except at so high a latitude that it must be impeded by perpetual ice.

“The mouth of the Copper-mine River, as ascertained by Mr. Hearne, lies in latitude 72° N.; longitude, 119° W. of Greenwich.”

Since the British have had possession of Canada, a strong competition has arisen 230 between the people of that country and the Hudson’s-Bay traders. It is therefore doubtful whether the opening of a free trade into Hudson’s Bay would be productive of those very advantageous results which Mr. Pinkerton has supposed: the indefatigable Canadians have contrived to carry their mercantile expeditions into almost every part of the N. W. continent of America; and it can be of little political consequence to the mother country, whether the peltry trade is made to pass through Canada or Hudson’s Bay; except, indeed, that the opening of a free intercourse with the Bay might operate as a stimulus upon the Esquimaux, to animate their exertions in the seal and whale fisheries; as they would be then certain of finding an adequate market for their oil, whalebone, and seal-skins.

That nothing serves so effectually to 231 deaden the spirit of mercantile application as an unjust monopoly, is evident, from an old record of the year 1742; which runs thus:—

“When the Indians came to the factory in June 1742, they could get but a pound of gunpowder for four beaver skins, a pound of shot for one beaver, an ell of coarse cloth for fifteen, a blanket for twelve, two fish-hooks or three flints for one, a gun for twenty-five skins, a pistol for ten, a hat with a white lace for seven, an axe for four, a hedging-bill for one, a gallon of brandy for four, a checked shirt for seven; all which was sold at the monstrous profit of 2000 per cent. Notwithstanding which discouragement, the Indians brought down to Port Nelson that season 50,000 beaver skins, and 9000 martens; these beaver skins being worth five or six shillings a pound; whereas 232 those which the English purchase at New York are not worth more than three shillings and sixpence a pound.

“Besides these skins, the Indians, during the same year (1742), brought to the factory, at Churchill, 20,000 beaver skins.”

If the Indians were industrious at a season when their labour was so miserably repaid, they would consequently become, at this moment, much more diligent; because, owing to the competition before noticed, they are certain of meeting with something like an adequate return for their commodities.

To this increased activity of the natives is probably owing the late very visible diminution in the staple article of their commerce, the beaver skins; as it is evident that those animals are becoming much more 233 scarce, in consequence of the perseverance with which their haunts are sought out and invaded.

The 28th of September having at length arrived, and the mercury in Fahrenheit’s thermometer having sunk to 20°, we gave up all hopes of the schooner returning from Churchill; and came to the melancholy conclusion, that she must have perished on her voyage. We therefore weighed anchor from York River, and steered our course towards the north, with an intention of touching, if possible, at the former place, to seek information of the schooner, and to get the furs from that factory; but a brisk gale springing up from the N. W. which was immediately against us, we gave up our design of visiting Churchill, and bore away for Hudson’s Straits. From henceforward we had one continued gale in our favour, until we reached the Orkneys, after 234 an unparalleled quick voyage of nineteen days. In passing through Hudson’s Straits, we could perceive none of the drift-ice or Esquimaux, which were so plentiful in our voyage outwards: the former had been carried away to the ocean, by the prevalence of the southerly currents; and the latter had most probably retired to their winter habitations.

We saw, however, many icebergs of enormous magnitude in the Straits; but, after leaving Cape Resolution, we reached the Orkneys without noticing any more of those dangerous islands[42].

We remained at the Orkneys nineteen days before the other Hudson’s-Bay ship arrived from thence; but she had experienced 235 much bad weather, and made a much longer passage than ourselves.

A few straggling remarks, made during our stay at the Orkneys, will conclude this Journal.

Entering Stromness Harbour, by the Hoy Passage, the view on either hand is extremely awful and sublime. Hoy Head is a tremendous height; and it appears doubly so from a ship sailing near to it, as the western side of this craggy mountain is nearly perpendicular; so much so, indeed, that it obtained the appellation of Hoy Walls. At a particular part of this awful cliff, an immense rent has torn a large fragment from the wall; and this huge disjointed mass is now washed, on all sides, by the most terrific breakers. It stands however erect, repelling all their 236 shocks; and it has assumed so completely the human form, as to be styled the Old Man of Hoy. This gigantic figure may be about five hundred feet high.

If the lowness of the eastern shore gives it a less grand appearance, yet the ledges of sunken rocks, on which many a gallant vessel has perished, together with the horrid breakers roaring mountain high above them, do not fail to inspire a spectator with equal awe and terror.

The Cathedral of St. Magnus, at Kirkwall, is built of a reddish kind of stone, in the shape of a cross; and it looks, at a short distance, much like a brick edifice. It is of very large dimensions; and appears to a stranger in a more imposing light, because it is erected on an eminence. The square tower issuing from the top of the 237 cathedral, in the centre of the cross, was formerly surmounted by a magnificent spire; but being shattered some few years ago, by lightning, a mean brick substitute has since been erected. There is an amazing number of windows; many of which have been lately broken; and there are two in the shape of a rose, exceedingly antique and beautiful.

The doors of this structure are low and arched, surrounded by a curious embroidery of the same red stone as the rest of the building. On entering the main portal, the space not allotted to public worship, the roof is supported by a double row of enormous columns, eight on each side: they are very simple and plain, composed of square stones laid over each other horizontally, and the shafts of the pillars are of the same diameter from their capitals to their bases. Owing to the 238 moisture of the place, a green mould has covered them, and given to the interior a most venerable aspect.

Passing up the centre of the isle between these aged pillars, we arrive at the centre of the cross, where four immense fluted columns support the spire, bells, and clock. A boarded partition then runs across the church; and a scrap of Scripture painted over a door marks out the place of modern worship. The interior of this part is neat, and ornamented with some fine specimens of carved oak, about two hundred years old. Over many of the seats are antique escutcheons of the former Earls of Orkney. The one appertaining to Earl Patrick Stuart, last Earl of Orkney, (who was beheaded,) was quartered with lions and ships, and inscribed thus:

239

We had the curiosity to go up to the belfry, by spiral staircases between the outer and inner walls of the cathedral. The number and intricacy of these dark passages was really astonishing; and the darkness of the place inspiring gloomy ideas, we fancied that it was in such dismal recesses that the bigotted monks used formerly to immure their victims. There is one fine bell, and two inferior ones, in the church, and a noble clock by a Scotch mechanist. From the belfry, a small door opens upon a rough ledge about two feet wide: the view from this dizzy height was extremely fine, as the town of Kirkwall, the adjacent islands, and numerous lochs, appear to lie in a panoramic view beneath the feet: but we were truly glad to re-enter the belfry, as the want of security on the ledge quite destroyed the pleasure arising from so fine a prospect.

240

On leaving the Cathedral of St. Magnus, we stepped aside, between the enormous circular columns before mentioned, to observe the only sepulchral arch of any antique appearance in the place. There was a shield sculptured at the apex, bearing three hearts as a device; from which we conjectured that it must have received the ashes of a Douglas—the heart having been the device of this family ever since the heart of the far-famed Bruce was conveyed, by that king’s desire, to the Holy Land, by an Earl Douglas[43].

This noble cathedral is said to have been built in the year 1200, and is in an excellent state of preservation.

On the right of St. Magnus stand the ruins of the palaces formerly inhabited by 241 the Earls and Bishops of Orkney. The cathedral and palace are within a stone’s throw of each other; but the latter stands on each side of a space which appears to have been the former court-yard of the building. The entrance to this court-yard is by a low arched gateway. The palace of the Earls is in better preservation than the cathedral; and it is to be regretted, that the dilapidations to which it is exposed are suffered to take place.

The corners of the Earl’s palace are laden with immense turrets, which give the building a very heavy appearance. The main portal is a massy low doorway; and the ascent to the great hall is by a fine broad flight of stone steps. Within the hall are two arched fire-places, each sufficiently capacious to roast a whole ox at a time. One of the fire-places is formed beneath an arch constructed in 242 the usual way; but the other is considered as a curiosity in architecture: it is a plane arch, supported by the transverse joining of the stones without the aid of cement. The windows of the hall are high and arched, but without either frame-work or glass.

The Bishop’s palace is now nearly destroyed; and, from the unceasing attacks made upon it, will soon be entirely so.

It is difficult to ascertain the original shape of this venerable structure; there being but two walls now remaining. At the end of one of these walls is a circular tower, of great strength and solidity, which, probably, was intended for the defence of the palace. Although the Earl and the Bishop had their residences so near to each other, yet the temporal and ecclesiastical Chiefs were ever at variance, and their quarrels and intrigues occupy a large portion of the Orkney history.

243

The town of Kirkwall consists of one long narrow street, which, from its proximity to the sea, and its central situation, was chosen to be the metropolis of the Orkneys many years ago: it is now a royal burgh, and it sends one member to Parliament. The street is generally damp and muddy, and there are very few good-looking houses in it. The house of a gentleman of the name of Baikie has five or six trees growing before it; and these are, I believe, almost the only trees in Orkney; although it be proved, from the number of roots dug up occasionally, that the Orkneys, in former times, were by no means destitute of wood[44].

The town is badly lighted; but, in this respect, it is superior to Stromness; which 244 place cannot boast of a single lamp. When we mentioned this inconvenience, during a conversation with one of the magistrates, he most ingeniously parried the attack, by asserting that the inhabitants were all so sober and good, that they never quitted their houses after dark; consequently the lighting of the town would be attended with unnecessary expense and trouble.

The people of Kirkwall boast much of the Ayr, a public promenade belonging to the town. The Ayr is a natural embankment, projecting like a pier into the sea, and it is washed on both sides by the water. In summer time, the Ayr must prove a very refreshing walk, and an agreeable escape from the filthy street of Kirkwall.

With regard to the people of Orkney, it will be only necessary to add, that a most 245 unbounded hospitality is their leading characteristic; and perhaps an eager curiosity is also an equally prominent trait. When a stranger enters the town of Kirkwall, the intelligence of his arrival flies with the rapidity of wild-fire: the old women, with their knitting apparatus in their hands, stand staring at the doors; and they hardly suffer him to pass, before his ears are assailed by a general inquiry of “D’ye ken wha that chiel is?” This exclamation is repeated by a dozen voices at once, at every door he passes in his route; and he will perhaps feel uneasy in thus becoming an object of scrutiny to the whole population.

The people of Orkney are naturally grave and sober, with much outward appearance of devotion; yet, at the annual fair which is held at Kirkwall, they suddenly relax into the most unbridled licentiousness: neither are they in general to be 246 admired for the honour or liberality of their dealings, as they delight in making what is called a “gude bargain;” and they feel no hesitation in overcharging a stranger, to accomplish this desirable end.

I shall here conclude this Narrative; merely adding, that the Rosamond and her convoy again sailed from the Orkneys on the 7th of November, and arrived safe at the Nore on the 17th of the same month; when an inspection having been made of the Rosamond’s defects, she was reported to be totally unfit for sea, in consequence of the damage she had sustained amongst the ice of Hudson’s Straits; and she was accordingly put out of commission, and immediately advertised to be sold out of His Majesty’s service.

247