INDEX
Reading edition
Accidents, mountaineering, causes of, 149, 256
— — how to deal with, 264-7
— — prevention of, 256-78
— — their effect on others, 264
Afanasief’s 100 Kaukasus Gipfel cited, 509, 510
Ailments, 9
Alpine Club of Canada, annual camps of the, 590
— Ski-ing, Calendar for, 402, 403, 456-70
Alps, the Dolomites of the Eastern, 47
— the Eastern, 201
— the High, hints for winter equipment for, 444-6
— — in spring, 456-68
— — in winter, 442-56
— — snow conditions in the, 446
— the Southern, 47
Amateur mountaineer, the, 108, 109, 134, 135, 136
— — improvement in his skill, 105, 106
Anchor, the, 220, 223
Anchoring on a descent, 191, 192
Andorra, 559, 560
Aneroid, 98, 445
— the Watkin, 535
Angle of lie of snow, the, 325, 326, 328, 329
— — reconnoitring, 375, 376
— of rock, 387, 388
Ankle, part played by the, in climbing, 158, 159, 289, 303
Anticipation in climbing, importance of, 157, 158
Arctic mountaineering, 497-505
Arms, use of the, in climbing, 161, 162
Association among climbers, 150
Automatic actions and adjustments in climbing, 69, 70
Autumn ski-ing, 468, 469
Avalanche ground, tactics on, 439-42
Avalanche, liability of snow to, 328
Avalanches, 273-5
— classification of, 427, 428
— conditions for their production, 273, 423-7
— dangers of, 424, 425, 426, 430, 432, 433-8
— dry powder, 428, 429
— ground, 423, 427, 435
— in Norway, 545
— new wet snow, 429-31
— old wet snow, 435-8
— power of, 274, 428, 435, 436
— rock, 271
— summer snow, 438, 439
— wind slab, 431-4
Axe, the, 91, 92
— as an extra hand, 206, 207
— as a third leg, 178, 207, 292
— in descent, 208
— on rocks, 204-8
— on snow, 336, 337
Baedeker’s Canada cited, 574, 577
— Norway cited, 536
— S. W. France cited, 570
Balaitous, the, 557
Balance climbing, 144-8, 156, 157
— factors involved in, 28-32, 140, 149, 156, 157
Barometer. See Aneroid
Bath, the hot, 5
— in tropics, 479
— morning, cold, 4
Bathing, 12, 13, 524, 532
Bed, portable, 99
Beginner, the, 113-6, 118
— his choice of trainer, 114, 115
Beginners, initial practice for, 148, 152, 153; and see under Rope
Behind, the rope, 215
Belay, the direct, 220, 221
— the indirect, 221, 222
Belays, 219-25
Belloc’s Pyrenees cited, 570
Benightment, 52, 53, 74, 75
Bergschrund, 317, 337
Bhutan, 527
Bise, the, 446
Bivouac, outfit for, 99
— selection of a, 53
Blindness, snow, 11, 343
Blistering from sun, 11, 12, 90, 97
Blizzards, danger of, 276
Body brake, the, 196
Boils, 484, 485
Boots, 4, 80, 81, 82, 153-5
— canvas, 155
— care of, 81, 82
— for the Himalaya, 534
— for ski-ing, 402
— nailing, 82, 83, 154, 155
— rubber, 89
Boracic powder for the feet, 5
Boredom, 15, 16
— of tramps over snow, 332
Bouldering, 153, 171, 183
Boum, the, 562
Brakes, 195, 196
— for glissading, 358, 359
Breeches, 87, 88
Breithorn, ski-ing on the Zermatt, 397
Bridges, ice, 337, 338
Bridgland’s Guide to Jasper Park, etc., cited, 583 n.
Britain, mist and cloud in, 389, 390
— rocks in, 388, 389
— snow in, 342
Bruce’s Kulu and Lahoul cited, 529
Bucket steps, 297
Calendar for Alpine Ski-ing, 402, 403, 456-70
Camera, the folding, 471
— the hand, 471, 472
— the Verascope, 478
Canadian Pacific Railway District, the, 574-81
Canteen for tropics, 487, 488
Canvas boots, 155
Capo al Dente, the, 519
Carriers in tropics, 495
Casque, the, 560
Caucasus, the, climate of, 506
— forests of, 508
— literature of, 509, 510
— maps of, 515, 516
— modes of travel in, 511, 512, 514, 515
— mountain system of, 508
— mountaineering in, 506-16
— — centres for, 512
Caucasus, mountaineering in, commissariat for, 513, 514
— — cost of, 516
— — equipment for, 512, 513
— records of, 508
— routes of access to, 510
— topography and structure of, 506-9
Caulfield’s How to Ski cited, 398 n.
‘Chair,’ the, 196, 197
Chalk, its peculiarities and risks, 180
Chamois, as a danger, 271
— in relation to avalanches, 441
Chamonix Aiguilles, the, 46, 47, 277
— granite, 146
Check, easing of a, 258-60
Checking on the rope, 259, 260
Chill, avoidance of, 85
— risk of, 5, 6, 7, 13
Chimney climbing, 167-9
Chimneys, descent of, 191
Chocolate, 6, 445
Christiania turn, the, 401
Claws, 96, 97, 287-94
— in glissading, 365, 366
— in mountain ski-ing, 402, 419
— their value, 286, 294, 513
— theory of their use, 288, 289
— types of, 287, 288
Cliffs, sea, 181, 182
Climbing down, 184-99
— in combination, 209-55
Closti turn, the, 401
Clothing, 5, 11, 84-90
— for the tropics, 488, 489
— for women, 89, 90
— for the Himalaya, 534
Clouds as weather portents, 57-9
— cirrus, 58
— cumulus, 58
— ‘fish’, 59
— ‘mare’s-tails,’ 58
— stratus, 58
— thunder, 59
Coat, the, 84, 85, 86, 87, 90
Col du Lion, the, 57
— Theodule, the, 57
Cold, effect of, on endurance, 10, 11
Coleman’s The Canadian Rockies, New and Old Trails, etc., cited, 581 n., 582, 583, 584, 586
Collective confidence of party, 17, 18, 240
— rhythm, 209, 211
Colour photography, 477
Combination, climbing in, 209-55
— the secret of time-saving, 76
Comolo Forno, the, 559
Compass, 98
— the radium, 52
Confidence, danger of over-, 24, 25
— necessity of self-, for leader, 17, 238
Confusing effects of weather when on snow, 342-5
Conjunctivitis, 483
Constipation, 480, 481, 482
Continuous going, 76-8
Cooking apparatus, 98
Cornices, snow, 338-40
— — double, 380
— — reconnoitring, 377-80
Cornwall, cliff climbing in, 181
Corsica, literature of, 520
— modes of access to, 518
— mountaineering in, 517-21
— — centres for, 518, 519
— — cost of, 518 n.
— — equipment for, 517, 518
— — season for, 517
— nature of climbing in, 520
— topography and maps of, 518-21
Coughs and colds, 482
Couloirs, 268, 272
— glissading on claws in, 365
— reconnoitring, 382-4
— snow in, 340-2
— the plunging step in, 364, 365
Courage, the measure of, 261, 262
Courmayeur, weather in, 56
Cover for the axe, use of a, 349
Crabioules, the, 561
Cracks, climbing, 165, 166
— descent of, 191
Crampons. See Claws
Crevasses, 316-21, 452, 455
— hidden, 315-22, 449
— marginal, 309, 450
— reconnoitring, 381, 382
— scimitar, 310
— systems of, 309-11
Crust, snow, 301, 331
— effect of Föhn on, 413
— — — frost on, 414
— — — sun on, 415
— — film, 414
— — forms of, 410, 411
— — marble, 411, 414
— — perforated, 414
— — soft breakable, 410
— — trap, 410
— — unbreakable, 410, 411
Cups, drinking, 98
Cushion, rubber, 99
Cuts and scratches, 485
Cutting. See under Steps
Cylindre, the, 560
Damp, risks of, 5
Dancing, as training, 4, 66, 156
— movements analogous to those of climbing, 156, 157, 208
Danger, 26, 27, 72, 149, 152, 237, 260, 261
De Déchy’s Kaukasus Reisen und Forschungen cited, 509
Descent, 42, 184-99
Detached rock, 176, 177
Diarrhœa, 481
Direction, the sense of, 345-7
Disappointment, 24
Discipline of parties, 2, 3
District, the choice of, 43-8
Dogtooth Range, the, 580
Dollfuss in May, 461
Dom, the, 459
Doubled rope, the, in descent, 192-5
— on glaciers, 317-21
Down, climbing, 184-99
Drinks, 7, 8
Dru, the, 47, 152
Dunagiri, 529
Dysentery, 481, 482
Earth glissade, 182
Earthquakes, 277, 278
Ebnefluh, ski-work on the, 398, 459, 468
Eckenstein, Mr., crampons designed by, 92, 96, 288
— ice-axe designed by, 92
— on knots for Alpine ropes, 94, 95
— on nails for boots, 83
— on ropes for Alpine work, 93, 94, 95
Elbrus, 509
End man, dangers of his fall, 260
Equipment, for Alps, 80-8
— for Arctic mountaineering, 498, 499
— for Caucasus, 512-4
— for Corsica, 517, 518
— for Himalaya, 532-5
— for mountain ski-ing, 402
— for Norway, 539, 540
— for Pyrenees, 566-9
— for rock climbing in Britain, 88, 89
— for Rocky Mountains, 588-90
Ewige Schnee, 330
Exceptional ascents, 120-2, 149
Excitement, dangers of over-, 16
Exercise, forms of preliminary, 4, 156, 158, 159, 181
Exhaustion, 26, 27
Experts, guide and amateur as, 111, 112, 118, 119
Eyes, right use of the, in climbing, 146, 147, 166, 184, 185, 186, 187, 192, 312, 313, 321, 370-396
Face-inward position in descent, 190, 191
—— in glissading, 363, 364
Face-outward position in descent, 188, 189
Face-sideways position in descent, 189, 190
Fall, 256
— after a, 262-4
Fallibility, human, 256, 257
Fatigue, temper as a sign of, 20
Fear, 26, 27
Feet, care of the, 4, 5, 83
Fell climbers, 142
Fellowship, necessity of good, 3
Fencing as training, 4, 66
Fiescherhorn, the, 468
Finsteraarhorn, the, 442
Finsteraarjoch Pass, in winter, 397
Firn, 285, 330
First man on the rope, duty of the, 237-9
Flysch, 425
Fog. See Mist
Föhn, the, 59, 60, 61, 417-22
— effects of, on snow, 326, 328, 377, 380, 412, 413
— in spring, 421, 422, 436
— in winter, 418-21
— the dry, 418, 430
— the wet, 413, 418, 429, 430
Folgefond, the, 542
Following and leading, 217, 218
Food, the choice of, 6
— — for tropics, 486, 487
Foot brake, the, 195
Footing, the right, for guide and climber, 125-9
Footwork, 140, 141, 153-8, 161, 176
— for balance climbing, 282-4
Forbes, Prof. J. D., his Norway and its Glaciers cited, 536
Fourcanade, the, 556, 562, 563
Freak climbs, 182, 183
Freshfield’s Round Kangchenjunga cited, 527
Freshfield and Sella’s The Exploration of the Caucasus cited, 509, 515
Front, the rope in, 214, 215
Frost-bite, precautions against, 5, 288 n.
— remedies for, 10
Frostisen, 544
Fruit ice, 8
Funicula, 254, 255
Furka, the, 464
Gabbro, 542, 543
Gabiétou, the, 560
Gaiters, 84
Galdhöpiggen, 544
Galenstock, the, 463, 464
Galmihorn, the, 459
Garhwal, 528
Gauli Hut, the, 457
Géant, the Dent du, 152, 201, 278
Geology, value of knowledge of, 425, 426
Giddiness, 9, 28-31, 182
Gjækkevarre, the, 542
Glacier falls, 311, 314
— mills, 310
Glaciers, 279-81, 285, 308-24
— in the Himalaya, 531
— in New Zealand, 554
— in Norway, 545, 546
— in the Pyrenees, 556-62
— in the Rocky Mountains, 586
— in Spitsbergen, 503, 504
— practice in ice work on, 285, 286
— ski-ing on, in winter, 448-56
— snow-covered, 314-22
Glacier work, 308-24
Glasses, field, 97, 98
— for prevention of snow-blindness, 11, 97, 321, 322, 534
— for reconnoitring, 395
Glazed rock, risks of, 170, 171, 193
Glissading, 348-69
— alternate, 362, 363
— arrest of, 352
— face-inward, 363, 364
— jumping while, 357, 358
— on claws, 365, 366
— — in couloirs, 365
— on earth, 182
— on grass, 368, 369
— on heather, 368, 369
— on ice, 349-52
— — position for, 349-52
— on sand, 366
— on scree, 366-8
— on snow, 353-66
— on volcanic ash, 366
— — braking, 354, 355, 358, 359, 360
— positions for, 353-61
— — steering, 355-7
— stone tests for, 361
— the axe brake for, 354, 358, 359
— the foot brake for, 358, 359
— the rope in, 361, 362
Glittertind, 544
Gloves, 10, 86, 89, 195, 258
Goats as a danger, 271
Grand Trunk Pacific Railway, the, 582-4
Grease on the face, 11, 90, 97
Gredetschthal, the, 459
Grépon, the, 47, 152, 385
Grimsel region, the, 425, 463
Grip climbing, 142, 143, 145, 174, 176
Gritstone, 180
Grove’s The Frosty Caucasus cited, 509
Grundlawinen. See Avalanches, ground
Gspaltenhorn, the, 447
Guide as mountaineer, the ideal, 107, 108
— companionship of amateur and, 128, 129, 136, 137
— nature, 123-37
Guides, Alpine, changed conditions of, 103, 104
— as experts, 111, 112, 119
— care for their comfort, 126, 127
— estimation of their qualities, 53-5
— management of, 123-37
— misconceptions of their function, 101-3
— question of engaging, 118-22
— traditional idea of, 102
Guides’ books, hints as to writing up, 53-5
Gullies, 141, 142, 268
— glissading in winter, 368
Gurla Mandhata, 528, 529
‘Half step’ trick, the, 37
Halts, 40, 77, 78, 332
— the rope during, 251, 252
Handholds, to cut, in ice, 298
Hands, use of the, 161-7
Hat, the, 85, 89
Headaches, 9
Health, importance of, 3, 4
Heart, training and development of the, 67, 68
Height, advantages of, 71
— the psychological effect of, 31, 32, 293
Helmet, woollen, 86
Hill-shock. See Hysteria
Himalaya, the, climbing conditions in, 523, 525, 526
— configuration of, 522, 523
— glaciers of, 529
— management of expedition to, 523-525
— mountaineering in, 522-35
— — clothing for, 534
— — cost of, 531, 532
— — equipment for, 528, 532, 533, 535
— — food for, 533
— — hints for, 533, 534
— — instruments for, 535
— — season for, 526
— — use of claws in, 288 n.
— topography of, 527-9
Hindu Khush, the, 530, 531
Hochgebirgskalk, 425
Holding the rope, 225-7
Holds, anatomical, 244
— cling, 161-2
— finger, 161
— friction, 160, 161, 169
— on rock and ice, practice of, 69
— over, 162
— press, 163, 164, 179
— pull, 174, 177, 179
— push, 163
— side, 162
— under, 162
Humours, preventable, 14-7
Hurry, the blunder of, 38, 39, 40, 76, 77, 332
Hut usages, 48-50
Hysteria, or hill-shock, 26-8
Ice, black, 285, 288, 294, 374
— blue, 284
— glacier, 284
— grainy, 284
— — hard, 290, 291, 545
— honeycombed, 374
— — rotten, 290, 294
— — soft, 290
— snow, 285
Ice axe. See Axe
Ice claws. See under Claws
— climbing in relation to rock climbing, 282-4
— craft, 282-324
— fragments, danger from falling, 275, 276
— sky, the, 393, 394
Imitation, in collective climbing, 211-3
Incudine, the, 520
Infection of leader by party, 25, 26
Injured man, a danger to his party, 260, 261
Instruments, 57, 535
Ireland, cliff climbing in, 181, 182, 391
Joanne’s Pyrénées cited, 570
Jungfrau, first winter ascent of, 397
Justedals-brae, the, 545, 546
Kamet, 529
Kasbek, 512
Kashmir and Karakoram, 530
Kellas, Dr., on Sikkim, cited, 527, 528
Kletterschuhe, 96, and see Soles
Knee, right use of the, in climbing, 146, 160
Knickerbockers, 85
Knots for ropes for mountaineering, 94, 95, 96, 255
— tests of, 96
Knutshultind, 544
Kumaon, 528
Lakes, the, 140, 152
— snowcraft in, 342
Lantern, folding, 52, 98
Lava, old, 180
Leader, duties of the, 1, 6, 8, 9, 10, 13, 18, 23, 39, 43, 44, 48-55, 125, 150, 151, 237-9, 323, 332
— guide or amateur as, 109, 111
— qualifications for, 1, 2, 3, 4, 9, 14, 15, 16, 19, 20, 21, 25, 33, 56, 150, 151, 237, 238, 239, 321
— responsibilities of, 2, 6, 9, 10, 16, 17, 27, 32, 34, 35, 36, 38, 39, 111, 133, 134, 150, 151, 153, 227, 237-9, 260, 261, 263
Le Blonde’s, Mrs., Mountaineering in the Land of the Midnight Sun cited, 536
Leeches, 484
Lens, 471, 473
Light, to procure a, 52
Lillienfeld ski, 398
— system, 399, 401
Limestone, 180, 181
Loads, risks of unnecessary, 22, 75, 76
Long rope, the, 198, 199
Longstaff, Dr., on the Purcell Range, cited, 579
Loops in ropes for glacier work, 320
Lumière autochrome, the, 477
Lungs, training and development of the, 67, 68
Lunn’s Cross Country Ski-ing cited, 398 n., 402
Lyskamm, the, 4
Malaria, 480
Maps, 98
Marble, 180
— crust, 411, 414
Marboré, the, 557
Mascot, uses of a, 34
Matterhorn, the, 57, 112, 113, 201, 271, 272, 381, 386
Maupas, the, 562
May in the High Alps, 456-61, 463, 464
Medicine chest for tropics, 485, 486
Medicines, 100
Merzbacher’s Aus den Hochregionen des Kaukasus cited, 509, 515
Mind, influence of, on the body, 14, 129, 240
Mist and cloud, uses of, 389, 390
— dangers of, 277, 343, 346
Moine, the, 152
Mont Perdu, the, 559, 560, 561
Monte Cinto, 520
— Corona, 519
— d’Oro, 519
— Padro, 519
— Renosa, 519
— Rosa, 446, 457, 468, 469
— — ski-ing on, 397
Moraines, 178, 208, 292
Mosquitoes, 480, 540
Moods, abnormal, 23-8
Mount Assiniboine, 575
— Ball, 575
— Beaver, 579
— Cook, 551, 553
— Duncan, 579
— Edith Cavell, 575, 583
— Fitzwilliam, 583
— Hector, 576
— Moloch, 577
— Robson, 584, 585
— Sir Sandford, 579
— Torlesse, 553
Mountain photography, 471-8
— sickness, 9, 10
Mountaineer, the amateur, contrasted with the guide, 103-8
— the composite, 106
— the moderate, 116-8
— the true, 280
Mountaineering in winter, 397
Muffler, 86
Mumm’s Five Months in the Himalaya cited, 528 n.
Mummery’s My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus cited, 509
Mürren, 469
Muscular fitness, 9, 65, 66
Nails, special, for climbing boots, 82, 83, 154
Nanda Devi, 529
Napes ridges, the, 152
Natives, management of, 494, 495
Nepal, 528
Nerve, 70
— exhaustion, 9, 26, 27
Nerves, 68, 69
Névé, 285, 330, 335, 448, 465, 470
Neve’s Picturesque Kashmir cited, 530 n.
New Zealand, flora and fauna of, 553, 554
— glaciers in, 554
— guides for the Alps of, 549
— mountains of, 550, 551, 555
— routes to, 548, 549
— the Southern Alps of, 548-55
— topography and structure of, 551-3
— weather of, 550
Night dangers. See Benightment
Night, hints for walking at, 51-3
Norway, glaciers of, 540, 541, 542, 543
— guide books and literature, 536, 537
— local conditions in, 544-7
— mountaineering in, 536-47
— — equipment for, 539, 540
— — expense of, 538, 539
— — guides for, 540, 541, 542
— — season for, 537
— mountains of, 542-4
— routes of access to, 538
— topography and structure of, 542-4
Norway and Sweden, wind-swept snow in, 408
Numbers suitable for parties, 34, 35
Oberaarjoch, the, 463, 464
Oberland, the, crossed on ski, 397
— its opportunities and characteristics, 45, 46
— weather in the, 57
Obstinacy, hysterical, 28
Old age, climbing in, 73
Oppenheim’s New Climbs in Norway cited, 536
Order, the, on the rope, 227-36
— of moving on the rope, the, 236, 237;
and see under Rope
Outfit for the Alps, 91-100
Outram’s In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies cited, 574, 581
Overhang, in descent, 194, 195
Pace, adjustment of, to the task, 74-9
— setting the, 37
Packe’s Guide to the Pyrénées cited, 570
Paglia Orba, 521
Palmer’s Mountaineering and Exploration in the Selkirks cited, 578 n., 579
Panic, 27, 272
Parasites, body, 484
Passing ahead, 37, 38
Paulcke, 397
Pegs and aids, 96, 200-3
Pennines, characteristics of the, 46
Perdighero, 561
Persistence in uncertain weather, 63, 64
Perversity, mountain, 267-72
Photography, mountain, 471-8
— — choice of subjects, 475-7
— — equipment for, 471-5
— — in colour, 477
— — stereoscopic, 477-8
Pic d’Albe, 562
— d’Astazou, 560
— de Bécibéri, 559
— d’Enfer, 557
— Long, 559, 561
— du Midi d’Ossau, 556, 557
— Moulières, 562
— du Munia, 561
— de Néthou, 559, 562
— de la Pique, 562
— de Pinède, 561
— du Port d’Oo, 561
— des Posets, 559, 562
— de Salenques, 562
Pitons. See under Pegs
Port de Venasque, 562
Positions in descent, 187-91
Powder snow, 326, 327, 405-11
— — effect of sun on, 408-11
— — — wind on, 407, 408
— — the ideal ski-ing surface, 406
— — reconnoitring, 374
— — in spring, 412-7, 430
— — in winter, 411, 412
Preparations, psychological, for ascent, 129, 130
Punta di Capella, 520
Purcell Range, the, 579-80
Putties, 89, 125, 289
Pyramid Peak, 586
Pyrenees, the, 556-71
— centres for climbing, 560
— huts and inns, 566
— literature of the, 570
— maps of, 564-6
— mountaineering in, 556, 557, 563
— — cost of, 569
— — equipment for, 566-9
— — guides for, 563, 564
— topography and structure of, 557-563
Quairat, the, 561
Quarries, scrambling in, for practice, 181
Quartz, its peculiarities and risks, 179, 180
Rabot’s Au Cap Nord cited, 542
Reach, advantages of, in climbing, 71
Reconnoitring, 370-96
— angle on snow, 375-7
— couloirs, 382-4
— glaciers, 311-4, 381, 382
— the half-seen, 390, 391
— ice, 374, 381, 382
— importance of, 370-3
— ridges, 386, 387
— rock, 384
— rock faces, 384-6
— rocks in Britain, 388-90
— slabs, 387, 388
— snow cornices, 377-80
— snow surface conditions, 374, 375
— the unseen, 391-6
— wind and snow signs, 380, 381
Réquin, the, 152
Rescue parties, 266, 267
Rhone Valley, the upper, 424
Rhythm, balance, 144, 156, 157
— collective, 209-11
— of movement, importance of, 140, 141, 143, 145, 148, 156, 157
— of step, importance of, 39, 40, 41, 76, 77, 78, 79, 145, 148
Rib riding, 169
Ring, use of the, 193
— risks of the, 194, 198
Ringworm, 484
Ripple mark, 407
Roche Miette, the, 587
Rock avalanche, 271
Rock climber, the good, 138, 146-9, 171
Rock climbing, 138-208
— — in relation to ice climbing, 282-4
— — development of, 138-44
Rock sky, the, 393
Rocks, knowledge of structure of, 138
— in Britain, 388, 389
Rocky Mountains, access to the, 574, 591
— — literature of the, 574, 586
— — maps of the, 576, 579, 581, 585, 586
— — minor ranges of the, 580
— — modes and cost of travel in the, 587-8
— — mountaineering in the, 572-91
— — — guides and equipment for, 578, 588-90
— — topography of the, 572-87
Rope, best handgrip on the, 225
— carrying the, 253
— choice of the, 93-4
— coiling the, 246, 252, 253
— in collective climbing, 213-7
— danger of abuse of the, 216, 217
— drying the, 253
— first man on the, 237-9
— frequent examination of the, necessity for, 253
— on ice, 305-8
— kinks in the, 253
— length of the, 253, 254
— management of the, 246-55
— order of moving on the, 236-7
— order on the, 227-36
— — on difficult or new ascents and descents, 228
— — on direct ascents and descents, 227, 228
— — on easy ascents and descents, 228
— — on traverses, 229-32
— — with beginners, 233-6
— right use of the, in descent, 191-9
— — on snow, 335-7
— second man on the, 239-45
— third man on the, 245-6;
and see under Doubled, Knots, Long, Funicula, and Halts
“Rope-riding,” 217
Rosenlaui, 461
Ross’s A Climber in New Zealand cited, 554
Rubber soles, 155, 182
Rucksack, the, 5, 91
Rulten, 545
Running as training, 4
Russell’s Grandes Ascensions des Pyrénées cited, 570
— Souvenirs d’un Montagnard cited, 570
Safety-pins, 85, 86
Sandstone, risks and peculiarities of, 180
Sark, the island of, cliff climbing on, 181
Schaeffer, Mrs., her Old Indian Trails cited, 584 n.
Schneebrett. See Wind slab
Schrader, M., on the Pyrenees, quoted, 557
Scotland, cliff climbing in, 181, 182
Scottish mountains, snow craft on, 342
Scree, 178, 179
— glissading on, 366, 368
— in relation to ski-ing, 426
Sea cliffs, 181, 182
Sealskins for ski-ing, 402, 449
Season, habit of the, 62, 63
Second man on the rope, the, duty of the, 239-45
— — — in case of accident, 262, 263
Selkirk mountains, the, 577-9
Séracs, 275, 301, 313, 335
Shirts, 85, 88
Signals, code of rescue, 51, 266
Sikkim, 527
Silence, dangers of, 18, 20, 51, 238
— uses of, 23, 240
Simla Hill States, the, 529
Sitting glissading, 360, 361
Skagastölstind, 542, 544
Skating movements, analogous to those of climbing, 156
Skavla, 408
Ski, mountaineering on, 397-470
— Lillienfeld, 398
— for mountain work, 402
— for summer work, 64, 397, 469, 470
Ski-ing in the High Alps, 399, 400
— Lillienfeld system of, 399, 401
— Norwegian style of, 399
— technique of, 398-401
— turns, 400, 401
— Zdarsky’s system of, 398
Skin diseases, 483
Skipping as training, 4, 66
Sky, ice as affecting its tint, 393, 394
— rock as affecting its tint, 393
— snow as affecting its tint, 392, 393
Skye, climbing in, 152
Slab climbing, 142, 143, 166, 167, 387, 388
Slate, its peculiarities and risks, 179
Sleeping sack, 99, 498, 499, 513, 532, 567, 589
Sleeplessness, 483
Slides, photographic, 473, 474
Sling for axe, 93, 298
Slings, rope, 193, 194
Slingsby’s Norway the Northern Playground cited, 536
Slips, how to accept, 41, 42
Smoking, 89
Snake-bite, 484
Snow a bar to starting, 63, 64
— avalanches, 423-42
— bridges, 337
— cornices, 338
— craft, 16, 325-46
— — for ski-ing, 403, 404
— crusted, 331
— — reconnoitring, 374
— granular, 416
— in couloirs, 340-2
— new, risks of, 327
— pink, 546
— powdery, 326, 327;
and see under Powder snow
— the rope and axe on, 335-7
— sky, the, 392, 393
— slides, danger of, 273-5
— slopes, reconnoitring, 375-7
— — security of, 329, 333-5
— soft, its risks and difficulties, 330-332
— spring, for ski-ing, 412-7
— steps, 333, 334
— summer, for ski-ing, 422, 423
— travail, 330-3
— winter, for ski-ing, 411, 412
Snow-blindness, 11, 343
Snow-line, the, 459
Snow-water, its supposed danger, 8
Social composition of a party, 32-6, 109, 110, 150
Socks, 4, 5, 10, 83, 87, 88, 89, 155, 156
Soles, hard, 153, 154
— rubber, 155, 182
— soft, 154, 155, 171, 179, 284
Solitary climbing, 151, 152
— — unjustifiable on snow or ice, 315
Soum de Raymond, 560
Spectacles. See under Glasses
Spender and Llewellyn Smith’s Through the High Pyrenees cited, 570
Spitsbergen, coast of, 500-2
— glaciers of, 501, 502, 503, 504
— interior of, 502-4
— modes of access to, 497, 498
— mountaineering in, 497-505
— — cost of, 505
— mountains of, 502-4
Spring in the High Alps, 456-68
— snow for ski-ing, 412-7
— Time-table for ski-ing, the, 466-8
Springing the rope, 197, 198
Stances, on rock, 218, 219, 223-7, 246, 247
— on snow, 336, 337
— on ice, 298, 306, 307
Stedtind, 544
Stemming turn, the, 400, 401
Step-cutting practice, 182
Steps, cutting, 294-302
— using, 302-5
Stereoscopic photography, 477, 478
Stick, use of the, in ski-ing, 399, 400, 401, 442, 450, 454
Stimulants, their use, 7, 8
— — in the tropics, 487
Stockings, 83, 86, 155
Stomach, care of the, 4, 5, 86, 479, 480, 482
Stones, dangers of falling, 250, 251, 268-73
— reconnoitring couloirs for, 382-4
— — faces for, 386
Storm Mountain, 575
Strahlegg Pass, crossing in winter, 397
Strandaatind, 543
Strata, rock, importance of acquaintance with, 383-5, 388, 425, 426
Stutfield and Collie’s Climbs and Explorations in the Canadian Rockies, cited, 575 n., 580 n., 581
Subconsciousness, sphere of, in mountaineering, 69
Sulitelma, 544
Summer ski. See under Ski
Sun, dangers of, 11
Sunburn, 90, 97
Sunstroke, 12, 482
Sutherlandshire, cliff climbing in, 181
Sweater, 86, 88
Sweet-stuffs, value of, 6, 7
Swimming as training, 66
Taillon, the, 557, 560
Teeth, care of the, 479, 480, 482, 483
Tehri Garhwal, 529
Telemark turn, the, 400, 401
Temper of mountaineering party, the, 19-23
Tennis as training, 4
Tents, 99, 513;
and see Equipment
— for tropics, 491-3
— Mummery, 492, 499, 533
— teepee, 588
— Whymper, 491, 532
Thawing of snow, the, 409, 415, 416
Thigh brake, the, 195, 196
Third man on the rope, duty of the, 245-6
Thirst, 7, 8
Thunderstorms, danger of, 276
Tirich Mir, 531
Tour de Marboré, 560
Tourist, the mountaineer, 112, 113, 118
Trade goods for tropics, 494, 495
Training, 65-73
Trap crust, 410
Tricouni nails for boots, 82, 83
Tripod for camera, 472, 474
Tropical diseases, 480, 481
— mountaineering, 479-96
— — equipment for, 486-93
— — health in, 479-86
— — management of expedition for, 493-6
Tryfan, the buttresses of, 152
U.H.U. Stollen nails for boots, 82
Underwear, 88, and see Equipment
Unsound rock, 173-9
Unusual rock 179-83
Urbachthal, 424, 457
Val d’Evoléna, 46
Vanesta packing-case, the, 493, 494, 532
Verascope camera, the, 478
Vertigo, 28-31
Vignemale, the, 557, 561
Waistcoat, the, 85
Wales, cliffs in, 142, 152, 181, 182, 391
— North, snowcraft in, 342
Walking as training, 4
— manners, 36-41
— notes on hill-, 41-3
Warmth, the conservation of, 5
Warning, to give, 257, 258
Water-bottles, 98
Waterproof cape, 86
Weather, the, 56-64
— alternating, 44, 45
— confusing, 342-5
— evil, 276, 277
— signs, 60-2
Weight handicaps, 75, 76
Wet rock, risks of, 169, 170
Wetterhorn, the, 456, 457
— — first winter ascent of, 397
Wheeler’s Selkirk Range, etc., cited, 577
White’s Sikkim and Bhutan cited, 527
Wilcox’s Camping in the Canadian Rockies cited, 575 n.
Will, function of, in climbing, 68
Wind, an enemy, 11, 258, 276, 343
— a friend, 277, 380, 381
— as weather portent, 59-60
— effect of, on snow, 326
— protection against, 5
Windboard, 407, 408, 432
Wind ‘signs,’ 380, 381
Wind slab, 432, 433
Wine, 7
Winter conditions in the High Alps, 442-56
— mountaineering, 397
— snow for ski-ing, 411, 412
Woman mountaineers, dress for, 89, 90
Wood-chopping as training, 4
Young climbers, care of, 13, 14
Zermatt, weather at, 56, 381
Zinal Rothhorn, 446, 447, 462
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