Front matter (continued 2)

A plurality of wives is not admitted amongst them under any circumstances. The sexes rarely live together, as man and wife, until they have arrived at the middle age of life. When a man wishes to take a wife, he first obtains the consent of the female, who solicits that of her friends, which, being obtained, the girl's father kills a hog, or, if a chief, a number of hogs, and makes a feast, to which all the friends of both parties are invited. After this ceremonial is performed, which is an occasion of great merriment, the parents of the girl furnish her with a few pieces of tappa cloth, and she is conducted by her husband to his house. The females, although invited to these feasts, are not permitted to partake of the hogs, roasted for the occasion. They are tabooed for the men alone. Hogs are scarcely ever used by the natives, but upon the occasion of a death or marriage. When a chief, or other person dies, possessing many hogs, a great feast is made. The only arms, that are now generally used, are muskets. Most of the natives, who have any property, own one or more. I did not see a single war club at Nooaheeva, and but few spears. I met several persons, who had the scars of musket balls, that they told me were received in battle. Each of the renegade Englishmen was living with a chief, who thought there was scarcely any thing that he could not perform. Besides supporting them, they gave them all the consequence of chiefs in their intercourse with the natives, so far as their own authority would admit of it. They were highly respected by the natives, and even John Luxon boasted to me of his superiority over the other Indians, in speaking English. I asked John, of what advantage his speaking English was to him, to which he replied, that it enabled him to cheat his countrymen.

The whole face of the island of Nooaheeva is high and mountainous. Every part I visited is composed of volcanic cinders, and evidently owes its origin to some great convulsion of nature. Whilst we remained at Massachusetts' Bay, the weather was mild and pleasant. We had several heavy showers, which, in one instance, only was accompanied with a squall of wind. After these showers it was delightful to contemplate the beauty of the innumerable little cascades of water every where falling over the rocks from the tops of the mountains. In a few hours, many of them would become less brilliant, and some would quite disappear. We found the longitude of our anchorage by the mean of three chronometers, to be one hundred and thirty-nine degrees fifty-four minutes and thirty seconds west; latitude, by a series of observations, eight degrees fifty-seven minutes forty-five seconds south.

October the 5th, we got under way, and stood out with a light and baffling wind, tacking very close in with both shores. At nine, A.M., we passed the Sentinels, and bore up to the westward with a moderate breeze from E.S.E. The islands Rooahooga and Rooapooa, were plainly in sight. In clear weather they may be seen at least fifty miles. The amiable character of the inhabitants of Nooaheeva, and the friendly disposition they had evinced towards us upon all occasions, made us feel regret at leaving them so soon. The course that now lay before us, carried us away from all the civilized world; and the islands in our way affording but little to tempt navigators to visit them, were known to us only as places, existing on the wide surface of the ocean, where, with few exceptions, the inhabitants had never seen the face of a white man. We could anticipate no other gratification from our contemplated visit to them, than the indulgence of our curiosity. The weather became squally after our departure from the Marquesas, and continued so for several days, during which time we were frequently deceived by the clouds assuming the strongest appearance of land, for which we steered two or three times, under a full conviction that we had made a discovery. We could picture to ourselves, the mountains, and valleys, and bays, and, to confirm the deception, we frequently saw land birds flying about us.

At day-light, on the 10th of October, we discovered Caroline Island, bearing W.S.W., and distant fourteen miles. We were on the weather side of it, and a furious surf was every where in sight, breaking upon a reef some distance from the shore. We stood along to the westward, and at nine, A.M., passed a reef, that makes out from the N.W. end of the island, protecting it to the S.W. from the heavy easterly swell, and prevailing winds. Under the lee of the reef, we stood in, with the hope of finding anchorage, getting frequent casts of the lead, until, to our great disappointment, it was discovered that there was deep sea-water within a few feet of a bed of coral, that stretched off three or four hundred yards from the shore, farther to the south and west, a high surf was breaking, and this being the only place where we could land, and, desirous of exploring the island, we took a small kedge to the coral bank, by which we rode to the easterly trade winds. Here we landed without much difficulty, and made our way to the shore, over the coral, although it was full of holes, and looked as though it would give way under our feet. The holes in the coral-bed were from one to three feet deep, and some of them had the appearance of communicating with the ocean. In these holes, we found an abundance of large and very fine fish, with which we supplied the crew in great plenty. They were of several different kinds, the best of which were the red grouper, and a long fish, of a dark colour, for which we had no name. Boarding pikes and boat-hooks were the only instruments we used for taking them, and by this simple apparatus alone a frigate's crew might have been supplied in a short time. A boat was also sent to fish alongside of the coral bank, where were myriads of red grouper, of a large size; but the sharks were so numerous, that, for every fish, we lost two or three hooks.

The tide rises, at Caroline Island, from three to four feet, and, at low water, the coral-bank was nearly dry. This was the case when we landed, and, having remained there several hours, our fishing party was surprised with a rise of the water, that made it difficult, and somewhat dangerous for them to retrace their steps to the edge of the bank, the holes in many places not being perceptible, and the water in them over their heads. What made their situation the more disagreeable was the number of sharks that had come in with the tide, and which occasionally made a bite at their feet or legs. One man, who had a large bunch of fish which he trailed through the water, was so closely pursued, and fiercely attacked by them, that he was compelled to take refuge upon a rock that lay in his way, from which he could not again be prevailed upon to descend, until the boat went to his relief. Caroline Island is uninhabited. It is from five to eight miles long, and no where in the vicinity of our anchorage more than from a quarter to half a mile wide. There are some trees of a large size upon it, and in most places a thick growth of underwood. It is every where bounded by a bed of coral, which generally extends several hundred yards from the shore. We saw no animals on it, and no other reptiles than small lizards. Sea birds were tolerably numerous, and a few sand snipe were seen. On the weather side of the island, we found a cocoa-nut tree, that, to all appearance, had but recently drifted on shore. Besides the cocoa-nut tree, we found two articles of Indian furniture. That they came from an inhabited island, there can be no doubt, and it is equally certain that the island has never been discovered, as there is none laid down upon the chart, in the direction of the trade winds, from Caroline Island, nearer than the Society Islands. The Marquesas are the nearest to Caroline, of any land known; and they are distant upwards of six hundred miles, and differ in their bearing a little from the general direction of the trade winds. On the cocoa-nut tree there were two nuts, which had the appearance of having been but a short time in the water. We planted them near our anchorage. Caroline Island is low, and every where flat, with the exception of a few sand hillocks, that rise a little above the ordinary level. It is no where more than four or five feet above the sea. We obtained a boat-load of pepper-grass and pursely, of which there was a great abundance; and on the 13th, at meridian, unhooked our kedge, and made sail to the westward. Our place of landing at Caroline Island, was south latitude nine degrees fifty-four minutes thirty seconds; west longitude, one hundred and fifty degrees eighteen seconds.

Previous to taking our departure from the coast of Peru, the commander of the station had furnished us with a long list of islands, said to have been recently discovered by whalers, and we were now in the vicinity of two of them, one of which was laid down in south latitude eight degrees forty minutes; and west longitude one hundred and fifty-nine degrees fifty minutes. The other, in south latitude, six degrees forty-two minutes; went longitude one hundred and sixty-six degrees ten minutes. After our departure from Caroline Island, we steered for the supposed new discovery, that was nearest to us, being that in latitude eight degrees forty seconds; and, having cruised two days in the vicinity, bore away, under a full conviction that it did not exist, or had been laid down incorrectly. In our search for the other island, we were equally unsuccessful; and after running down a degree or two of longitude, in its parallel of latitude, continued on to the southward and westward, shaping our course for the Duke of Clarence Island. Whilst we were looking for these new discoveries, we were frequently deceived by the same false appearance of land, that I have noticed soon after our departure from the Marquesas, and several times we saw land-birds[8] flying about the vessel.

At four, A.M., on the 29th of October, we discovered the Duke of Clarence Island ahead, twelve miles from us. At day-light, the N.W. end was full in sight, and on each side of it, apparently at a great distance, the tops of the trees could but just be seen through the haze of the morning, looking as though they rose from the ocean. As we approached nearer, a great many islets rose to view, connected with each other by a chain of coral reefs. In sailing round them, we discovered that they formed a polygon, the sides of which were narrow strips of land and coral reefs, comprehending within them a lake of many miles in circumference. When we first got close in with the island, this lake, intervening between us and the most distant islets that rose at the utmost limit of our vision, almost persuaded us, for a time, that it was an extensive group, instead of one little island that looked like a speck upon the general chart. The lake was everywhere protected against the ocean, and so smooth, that not an undulation could be seen upon its surface. The wind was light, the sea smooth,—the air had the mildness and elasticity of a spring morning; and these deep green spots, upon the wide waste of ocean, were truly beautiful. The islets were low, rising but a few feet above the water, and all covered with a thick growth of cocoa-nut trees. When we run down within a few miles of the shore to the westward, where, near the beach, were a few huts, two canoes put off, and pulled for us with great rapidity, and shortly afterwards not less than twenty were in sight.

All this part of the shore was bounded by a coral reef, upon which was breaking a heavy surf, and as we wished to anchor, and look for water, we continued on for the leeward shore. We were under easy sail, and the canoes kept way with us, constantly increasing in number, having, each of them, from four to seven men. One of them came very near us, and to save the natives the labour of working at their paddles, we threw them the end of a rope. They laid hold of it very eagerly, but instead of tying it to some part of their canoe, as we expected they would have done, they hauled up by it as close to our stern as they could get, and made motions for us to give them more. We did so, and they again motioned us to veer to. This, we thought unnecessary, as they had already sufficient for the purpose we intended. When they found that their solicitations for more were not heeded, they very deliberately took a sharp instrument of bone or shell, and cut the rope off, having several fathoms in their canoe. As soon as they had done this, they took to their paddles, and pulled away for us with all their might, and were soon again near enough to have a rope thrown to them, which they called for as loud as they could, making, at the same time, significant motions. When they found that we would not give them the rope again, they paddled up to our quarter, and one of them, who was a powerful man, came on board, without seeming to fear us in the least. Several of the officers spoke to him, and tried to call his attention; but, without taking the least notice of any body, he walked straight to the stern-netting, where he commenced most industriously to throw into his canoe every thing that he could lay hands on. The quarter-master and others, who were near, remonstrated with him, in vain, against such outrageous conduct. Their interference seemed only to excite his indignation, and make him the more active in accomplishing his design. When we found that nothing else would prevail with him, I took a musket that lay near me, and gave him a slight blow with it, calling at the same time on some of the men, who stood near, to lay hold of him. He seized the musket, when I struck him, and would have taken me overboard with it, but for the timely assistance of those who were near. He made his escape before the men could get hold of him, having succeeded in throwing into his canoe the log-reel and line, besides a number of other articles, that we could not conveniently spare. We would have pursued the canoe, and taken from it the stolen articles, but they all moved with such rapidity, that we had no hope of overtaking them, if we made the attempt. When the natives in the other canoes had witnessed the success of their comrades in carrying off their booty, which they were displaying to those around them, with great delight, they were encouraged to come near, and make a similar attempt at plunder. They were somewhat cautious, however, having witnessed the resistance we made. The next theft was that of breaking off one of the rudder-irons of the waist-boat. The captain, who was near, prevailed upon the fellow to give it up, which he did, without the least hesitation; but, remaining quietly where he was, he seized the opportunity, when the captain's face was turned from him, and, snatching the piece of iron out of his hands, jumped overboard, and swam to the nearest canoe. We were all the time close in with the shore, getting frequent casts of the deep sea lead, and the moment it was overboard, and the line was seen by the natives, they made for it in a dozen canoes, and with instruments of sharp shells, fastened to sticks, endeavoured to cut it off. They paid not the slightest attention to our remonstrances and threats, and the only way in which we could prevent them from effecting their object, was by hauling the line in as fast as possible.

After running along the shore for several miles, seeking in vain for anchorage, we began to examine the reefs, that connected the islets, with great solicitude, in the hope of finding an opening into the lake, whore we should be protected from the wind and sea. Of this, however, we soon despaired, and passing the south-west point of the island, a bountiful little bay opened to our view, upon the shore of which the surf beat less violently than we had seen it elsewhere. Here we hove to, and sent a boat in shore to look for anchorage. She soon returned with a report that, within less than half a cable's length of the shore, no bottom could be found, with upwards of a hundred fathoms of line. We now gave up all intention of anchoring, and permitted the natives to come alongside, and exchange whatever we had, that was mutually acceptable to each other. They had continued to follow us, and, growing bold with their numbers, frequently threw on board of the vessel clubs, cocoa-nuts, or whatever they had in their canoes, that could be used as missiles. This was accompanied by such a loud shouting, and they had become so numerous, that the orders for the ordinary duty of the vessel could not be heard. Some of their clubs were so large, as to be capable of inflicting a fatal blow by the violence with which they were thrown, and our apprehensions of suffering some evil consequence from this licentious conduct of our new acquaintances, were soon realised, by one of them striking the surgeon upon the head. He was in ill health, and had just come upon deck to witness the novel spectacle around us, when the unwelcome salutation was given. It alarmed us at first for his safety; but, to our gratification, we discovered that his hat had so far protected his head, that the wound was not severe. As soon as the natives saw the schooner heave to, they closed around us, and as many as could get alongside, came with whatever they had to offer. Nearly a hundred canoes were assembled, and in them several hundred men. When they saw us hoisting out our boat for the purpose of sounding, they became alarmed, and took to flight. No inducement could prevail upon them to come near us, whilst the boat lay alongside, and as soon as she shoved off, they took to their paddles, and retreated as fast as they could; but when they saw that she took a different direction, and it was not her object to pursue them, they all turned and followed her. They gathered around her at a short distance, apparently afraid to approach nearer, at first making signs for her to go on shore, where was a numerous group of men, women, and children, inviting our people to land. Seeing that the boat would not go on shore, and after the duty assigned had been accomplished, that she was returning to the schooner, the natives with one accord closed more nearly around her, as if to intercept her passage. The officer in the boat made threats and signs for them to retire, to which they paid not the slightest attention. A canoe came on each side of the boat, and the natives laid hold of the oars, a man rising in each canoe at the same time, with a barbed spear, which he held in the attitude of throwing. The officer, feeling that his situation was a very critical one, and thinking that the report of his pocket pistol would cause them to desist, presented it with a design to fire ahead of one of the canoes. It did not go off, but the snap was a signal sufficient for our men to prepare for their defence, believing they were exposed to the greatest danger. They seized their pistols, with one of which each man was provided, and before the officer could interfere to prevent them from firing (the noise and confusion amongst the natives being such, that he could not be heard) one of the men discharged his piece, and the ball passed through the hand of one of the natives. They became alarmed at the extraordinary report of the pistol, and immediately after it, seeing the blood flow from the hand of their countryman, discontinued their assault, and retired with precipitation. The boat then returned to the schooner unmolested, the natives flying from her in every direction as she approached them. We were apprehensive that the report of the pistol, and the wounding one of the natives would produce so great a panic amongst them, as to interrupt our farther intercourse. But in this we were agreeably disappointed, for the boat was no sooner hoisted in, than they came alongside, with as much confidence, as though nothing of the kind had occurred. In an hour afterwards, the wounded man was seen in a canoe, fifty or a hundred yards from us, apparently afraid to come nearer. He was distinguished by having his hand bound up in green leaves. After making motions to him, and those around us, and holding up a variety of things for his acceptance, he was at last prevailed upon to come near us. When he saw the sentinel, in the gangway, he stopped, and we in vain held up our presents for him, until the sentinel was removed. He then came on board, and suffered his wound to be examined and dressed, trembling and staring around him, like one in the greatest terror. We were gratified to find that the wound was not so severe as was to have been apprehended, the ball having passed through the fleshy part of his hand, between the thumb and forefinger, without breaking any bones, and probably without inflicting upon him a serious injury. When his wound was dressed, and he received a few presents of old iron, &c., to him invaluable, he left us, and jumped from one canoe to another, with the activity of a monkey, holding up his treasure, and talking with great vehemence, apparently delighted with his good fortune. The natives had nothing to exchange with us but a few mats, some of which were finely wrought, cocoa-nuts, bone and shell ornaments, and fishing-hooks, for which we gave them, in return, pieces of iron hoops, or old nails. We witnessed several instances of dishonesty amongst them, as well as their entire want of confidence in us. Whenever one of them presented any thing for exchange, he held it firmly grasped in his hand, until he received his pay with the other; and if he first obtained the old nail or iron hoop, without the person, with whom he was trading, getting firmly hold of his mat or whatever it might be, he was sure to keep both. Every man carried a long spear, and some of them a short weapon, slightly curved like a sword. Their spears were from eight to twelve feet long, some of which had one and some two branches near the end. They were pointed with the hard bone of a large fish, and, from one to two feet from the point, covered with rows of shark's teeth, that were immoveably fixed by a neat moulding of twine passing through the teeth, and round the spear. The short weapons were armed in the same manner all over, except a small part left for the grasp of the hand. Both were formidable weapons, and capable of inflicting a mortal wound. A few of them wore dry wreaths of cocoa-nut leaves round their brows, which were the only kind of covering we saw any of them have about their heads, and as the instances were rare, we thought it probable that they were chiefs. The dress for their loins consisted of two pieces, one of which was composed of a few plaited leaves, next to the skin, and the other consisted of a mat, from two to three feet wide, and four long, beautifully fringed at the bottom, and which served, not only as a pretty ornament, but was useful as a protection against the flies, which almost everywhere amongst these islands are very troublesome. They were strong and robust looking men, of a very dark copper colour, and most of them, particularly the old men, covered with scars, that they gave us to understand were occasioned by wounds from their spears and daggers. They wore their hair long, and in disagreeable looking matted locks. None of them had heavy beards, and in general but little. It is not improbable that they pull them out with fish-scales, as is practised at the Marquesas, and many others of the South Sea Islands. This is done by compressing the beard with the fingers between two large fish-scales, in the manner of applying a pair of tweezers. A great many natives, most of them women and children, had assembled on the shore, opposite to us, where they remained all day, singing and amusing themselves. No females came off in the canoes.

We saw no water, except a small quantity that one or two of the natives had in cocoa-nut shells, and, much to our regret, from ignorance of their language, could not inquire where it was to be obtained. The land no where rose more than from three to seven feet above the level of the sea, and as we could not land with safety, we had no means of ascertaining whether any rivulets existed upon it. The island seemed to produce nothing, but cocoa-nuts, which must be the only food of the natives, except when they are so fortunate as to catch fish. Towards evening we stood out of the bay, and hove to off the south-west point, where we sent a party on shore to collect a quantity of cocoa-nuts, of which there was a dense forest, that promised an abundant supply. Our people were no sooner on shore than they saw the natives approaching them in different directions, armed with spears and paddles, making signals to each other, and signs, for the intruders to depart. Every tree had some peculiar mark, from whence we concluded, it was considered the property of some individual. It was after sun-down, and night was closing in fast upon our party, who finding, from the determined manner of the natives, that, whatever they took, must be by violence, gave up the enterprise, and returned to the beach. It was fortunate that they did so, for the tide had risen considerably, and with it the surf had increased in a dangerous degree. All, however, got off safe, but with wet jackets, and at eight, P.M., October the 30th, we hoisted in the boat, and made sail.

We ran off with a fine breeze, and at half-past three, A.M., made the Duke of York's Island, directly ahead, and sooner than we expected. It was not more than three or four miles off; the deep hollow roar of the surf could be distinctly heard, and its foaming white crest seen through the mists of the night, as it tumbled on the shore. We hove to until morning, when we made sail along the land, towards the south end of the island. This island is noted on the chart, as uninhabited, when discovered by Commodore Byron, in 1791; and it may be supposed, that we were not a little surprised, on approaching the southern point, to see two canoes putting off for us. One of them came alongside, the other kept at a distance. The first had but one man in it, who exchanged a mat for a piece of iron hoop, and returned immediately to the shore, followed by his consort. When we got to the southward of the point, which was the lee side of the island, we hove to, and sent a boat to look for anchorage. The shores were similar to those of Caroline and Clarence Islands,—of coral, and shelving suddenly into deep sea-water. It was somewhat better here, however, for within half a cable's length of the surf, we let go our anchor in twenty fathoms water. Although we veered eighty fathoms of cable, the bottom was so smooth, and its angle of depression so great, that we drifted off.

We stood in again, and running the vessel close in with the edge of the surf (the wind blowing off shore) came to in eight fathoms. In a few minutes, a native made his appearance on the coral bank, near us, with his arms full of cocoa-nuts, which he held up, as if for our acceptance, waving at the same time a green branch, and frequently jumping about upon the rocks, in a childish, playful manner. A boat was sent to bring him off; but when he saw her approaching pretty near, he threw the nuts in the water towards her, and hastily retired. A coral bed, like that at Caroline Island, extended off fifty or a hundred yards from the shore, which, like that, was perforated every where with holes, and resembled, in its frail appearance, ice that has been for a long time exposed to rain. The tide was low, and the surf breaking but lightly upon it, we were enabled to land without difficulty. At our approach the natives all ran off, and for a considerable time could not be prevailed upon to come near us. After a while their timidity relaxed, and they came round us, one by one, until we had a dozen of them assembled. Still they were very much afraid, starting with every motion we made, and if we attempted to touch them, they ran from us, and became as shy as ever. From our place of landing, we could discover that this island was similar to the Duke of Clarence, being a narrow chain of little islets and reefs, of coral formation, covered with bushes and cocoa-nut trees, and comprehending within the chain a lake of many miles in circumference.

At our place of landing, the island between the ocean and inland sea, was not more than two hundred yards wide, and this appeared to be as wide as any part of the chain that came under our immediate observation. In passing over to the borders of the lake, we saw near the centre of it a large raft, and a number of canoes filled with people. On first landing, we were surprised not to see any women or children, the mystery of which was now explained, as well as the singular visit we received on first approaching this part of the island. The person in the canoe had been sent off as a spy, to reconnoitre us, and from the report he made, it was thought expedient to remove the women and children, where we now saw them at a place of safety. They did not appear to be more than thirty in number, and the men on the island did not exceed fifteen. The men resembled the inhabitants of Clarence Island, in dress, colour, and every thing, except that they had a sickly look, and, in strength and activity, seemed much their inferiors. Their canoes were also the same. Like the inhabitants of the Duke of Clarence Island, they had nothing amongst them that indicated a visit of white men before. The cocoa-nut, except when they catch fish, is their only food. No bread-fruit trees were seen growing upon either island. They exchanged for iron hoop and old nails, their rude shell ornaments, mats, cocoa-nuts, and fishing nets. We witnessed several instances of dishonesty, practised by them upon us, and each other. Their fishing-nets, which were beautifully wrought, they had concealed, from the apprehension that we would plunder them; but when they had made acquaintance with us, and found that our disposition towards them was friendly, persons, to whom the nets did not belong, would purloin, and bring them to us, in exchange for pieces of iron hoop. Not long afterwards the owner would discover his net in the possession of one of our people, and claim it as his property, or demand a gratuity. In this way, they made us pay in some instances three or four times for the same thing, frequently (we began to suspect) pretending a fraud had been committed upon them, whilst they themselves were the rogues. We saw no animals or birds upon the island, but presented them with a pair of pigs, male and female, with which they were very much pleased, and before we left them, so far acquired their confidence, that they came amongst us without fear, and, in many instances, became troublesome by their familiarity. The only water we saw on the island was in a few trunks of cocoa-nut trees, the stumps of which had been hollowed out, and from whence we supposed that, in time of drought, if not always, they are supplied with this important necessary of life. We regretted the more that we could not find a sufficient supply here, as the thinly populated state of the island would admit of sending our parties on shore, without the least apprehension of hostility from the natives, and because the landing was such, as to permit the embarkation, without great labour, or risk of losing boats.

As the Duke of York Island was not inhabited, when discovered by Commodore Byron, thirty-five years previous to the visit of the Dolphin, it is reasonable to suppose, from the strong resemblance of the natives to those of Clarence Island, their dress and canoes being the same, that they came from thence at no very distant period. The distance of these islands from each other, is only about forty miles, and a canoe, being driven from one in the direction of the other, in tempestuous weather, would soon be in sight of it. Towards evening in returning on board, we found, to our regret, that the tide had risen two or three feet over the coral bank, and it became difficult for us to see the holes, some of which, being now filled with water, were deep enough to be attended with danger. Besides this, the surf, as is usual upon these coral banks, had increased with the rising tide to such a degree, that we found it difficult to embark. Guided by our observation, in the morning, however, we got on board safely, with the exception of some trifling accidents. The most serious of which was having the boat bilged against the rocks.

At four, P.M. on the 31st of October, we got under way, and steered to the westward. For several days the weather was squally, and the wind variable, shifting suddenly to all points of the compass, and blowing at times with great violence. We experienced strong currents setting in different directions, which were now a cause of serious alarm to us, as we should soon be surrounded by reefs and chains of islands, all low, and to be seen only for a few miles on a clear day. On the 9th of November, Byron's Island was seen, at 8 P.M. six miles from us, and soon afterwards the shore was lighted up with a number of fires. The surf was beating heavily upon the weather-shore. We stood off and on until morning, when, having been driven to leeward by a strong current, we beat up for the island, passing several canoes on our way, and having a great many others in different directions to windward, running down for us. At meridian, we were close in with the land, where we beat about for several hours, looking for anchorage. Once we tacked, in three fathoms, so close to the coral bank, where was beating a heavy surf, that we could almost have jumped upon it. At 6, P.M. on the tenth, we anchored in ten fathoms, within less than a cable's length of the surf, and where the water was so clear, that we could see almost every coral rock at the bottom. Besides the rocks, it presented the appearance of a splendid landscape of trees and copse-wood, ornamented with the most lively and brilliant colours, which, affected by the swelling of the ocean, were transformed into a representation of a rich and beautiful country of mountain and valley.

Whilst we were beating about, canoes were assembling near us, in great numbers, and as soon as we anchored, came along side, the people jumping on board without the least hesitation, talking and hallooing to each other so loud, as almost to deafen us with their noise. They had not been long on board, before several of them were detected in thieving, and when threatened, seemed quite regardless of our displeasure, although it was expressed in a way calculated to make them sensible of its disagreeable consequences. They were all provided with long shark's-tooth spears, and walked about the deck with a swaggering, independent air, that seemed to challenge, at least, an equality. But few brought any thing else with them but their spears, which they would not dispose of, and altogether, their number and appearance was truly formidable. At sunset, we sent them off, and they all returned to their respective islets.

The appearance of Byron's Island, differed scarcely in any respect from that of the Duke of Clarence. Its dimensions and formation were perfectly similar; and, like the latter, it was inhabited by an enterprising and warlike people, whose dress, arms, canoes, and manner of life, seemed to be identically the same. The islet abreast of us was all night illuminated with numerous fires, and the air rung incessantly with the shouts of hundreds of people.

When the day dawned, the whole ocean was whitened with the little sails of canoes that were seen coming from every direction, and some of them as far as the eye could distinguish so small an object. In an hour, not less than a hundred of them were alongside, and our deck was crowded with the natives. The officer of the watch undertook to wash off the deck, which he found altogether impracticable: not a word could be understood for the noise that they made, and when they were pushed out of the way by our people, they became insolent and resentful. We were at length, obliged to resort to some little violence to clear the decks of the unruly rabble, whose disposition to thievery and violence, became every moment more difficult to repress.

An old athletic chief, whom our captain had treated with more than ordinary attention, suddenly put his arms round him, and embraced him with such herculean strength, that he was constrained to call on the men near him for assistance; in a moment, they had a rope around the old chief's neck, and broke his grasp, and the captain having enough of Indian courtesy, was well pleased to dismiss them. They still remained near us, and as many as were allowed, came alongside. They exchanged for pieces of old iron, coarse matting, flying-fish, shell ornaments, and a few of them disposed of their spears.

One fellow, who evinced an obstinate determination to come alongside, was ordered off by the sentinel, who pointed his musket at him. As soon as the musket was pointed, he raised his spear, and stood in the attitude of throwing it until the sentinel came to a shoulder, when he again took to his paddle; the musket was again presented, and the Indian, with the same promptitude, raised his spear, until the sentinel, feeling the awkwardness of his situation, reported the circumstance to an officer. I went forward, and pointing at the native a pistol loaded with very fine shot, motioned for him to retire; upon which, he raised his spear at me, and I discharged the pistol at his legs, when he dropped his arms and fled with the greatest precipitation; I afterwards remarked him outside of all the rest of the canoes, apparently afraid to come nearer the vessel. After this example, none of them seemed disposed to question the authority of a sentinel.

The islands we had seen, since our departure from the Marquesas, resembling each other so much, and none of them affording indications of water sufficient for our purposes, we began to think seriously, that we might experience great inconvenience, and perhaps suffering, before we could procure a supply; we determined, therefore, to let no opportunity escape us, of examining every island that came in our way, if it could be done without too much risk. With a view to this object, the captain pulled in shore, followed by nearly all the canoes; but when he arrived at the edge of the surf, which was so heavy as to make the landing difficult, he remarked that the people on shore, of whom a great many were assembled, had all armed themselves with spears and stones. This hostile appearance, together with the violence of the surf, made him hesitate about proceeding further, although the natives, on shore as well as those in canoes, pressed him to land. When, finally, he relinquished his object, and was about to return on board, the people on shore dashed into the water and swam off, and uniting with those in the canoes, made a violent attempt to drag the boat into the surf. The men promptly repelled them, when they dived to the bottom, and coming up, showered a volley of stones into the boat, which wounded a few of the crew slightly, and broke several pieces of the gunwale. In the midst of the excitement and confusion that prevailed, a native seized a pistol, which he struggled violently to carry off, until a musket was fired, and he was taken into the nearest canoe severely wounded; it had the effect to disperse the natives, who fled from the boat in every direction, as she returned to the schooner. When she was hoisted in, they came alongside, and some of them got on board. We commenced getting underway, and one of the anchors was already up; the other having hooked to a coral rock, the captain directed the sentinel forward, to give the musket to him, and repair to his station. A native, who had been talking to the captain, embracing a favourable opportunity, seized the musket, upon which was a fixed bayonet, and jumping overboard with it, swam towards the shore, keeping half the time under water. Muskets were fired at him, but he bore his booty safely through the surf to the coral bank, where, although he was still within striking distance, he marched away with the most perfect composure, until he disappeared in the bushes.

After this bold theft, several boats were prepared to land in search of water, and, if possible, recover the stolen property. The captain took the lead, and landed on the coral bank, with his arms and ammunition wet and useless, whilst the boat, in returning through the surf, was thrown upon the rocks, bilged, and before she finally got off, almost every timber in her broke. This fatality having attended his landing, he forbade the other boats to attempt it, choosing rather to remain in his defenceless situation, surrounded by hostile natives, to the more serious consequence of losing the remainder of his boats.

By signals concerted previous to his departure from the vessel, he directed a fire at intervals from our cannon, in the direction of a large hut that we supposed belonged to the chief. A small group of natives approached him, one of whom, a man advanced in years, came up with a green branch in his hand; the captain demanded of him by signs the return of the musket, in reply to which, he addressed some one near him, who ran off, and in about an hour, brought it without either lock or bayonet; these were also required, and our demand repeated occasionally by a discharge of cannon in the direction of the chiefs hut. It was not long before the lock was brought, but no threats could compel them to relinquish the bayonet. The situation of the captain and his party was becoming more and more critical with every moment's delay. They were on a bank of coral a hundred yards wide, and small parties of natives, of whom great numbers were assembled in the bushes, would frequently sally out and throw stones at them. They had no other means of protection or defence than what was afforded by our guns, which were fired whenever the hostile parties made their appearance. The hustle of our shot over their heads, and the fall of cocoa-nut trees, proved to them the superiority of our arms over theirs, and in a measure, had the desired effect of keeping them back. One circumstance, however, convinced us that they were not yet fully sensible of this superiority, or if so, that they were intrepid to a degree that might well alarm us for the safety of our people.

When one of their parties had sallied out, there were two men walking along the beach, carrying a canoe; a shot that was fired to drive the sallying party back, struck so near these men, that it threw the sand and gravel all over them. They laid the canoe down and looked round them for a few moments, when they took it up again and walked along, as they would have done under the most ordinary circumstances.

When the captain became impatient of his confined situation on the beach, besieged and harrassed as he constantly was by the natives, he made bold to risk an excursion back upon the island, to show the natives his disregard for them, and, at the same time, satisfy himself as to the existence of water. They did not any where oppose him or appear in numbers; a few persons were seen behind the trees, or stealing along through the thickets without any demonstration of hostility. His discoveries were few and unimportant; the only place where he found water, was in an old well, where it was stagnant and unfit for use. In the huts that he entered, were stores of dry cocoa-nuts, and a preparation of dried fish and sea-moss.

We were filled with solicitude for our party when beyond the reach of our assistance, knowing that they had no other means of safety than the opinion which might exist among the natives of their invincibility, and we were highly gratified, after an hour's watching, to see them returning to their old place of blockade—the coral bank.

It was now sundown, and the surf had increased so much that we did not believe it possible for a boat to reach the shore and return in safety; and to send men there without a prospect of their being enabled to return, would be but a useless sacrifice of lives; but here was our people on shore; the natives had followed them on their return to the beach; and their remaining after dark would probably be attended with the most serious consequences. Two men, who were good swimmers, came forward and volunteered their services to take on shore a light boat that we had, and although I might have felt unwilling to exercise authority in the performance of so hazardous a service, I was happy to accept the generous offer. They landed in safety, and the boat being deeply laden with the captain and his party, they clung with one hand to her quarter, swimming with the other, until after a severe and most doubtful struggle, she emerged from the surf, almost filled with water, and was soon afterwards alongside. It was thought that if there had been one more breaker to pass, all would have perished.

The men of Byron's Island are stout, active, and well made. They were all naked, and covered with scars. Some of them wore skull-caps, of grass, and wreaths of dry cocoa-nuts. Their ornaments were rude, and worn by but very few. They consisted of shells and beads, made of something that resembled whalebone, worn in long strings,—by some round the waist, and by others round the neck. Their hair was long and matted, and their complexion very dark. Their beard was thin, and curled upon the chin, like that of the negroes. A few women came round us in canoes, who looked coarse, and almost as robust as the men. They wore round their loins a small mat about a foot wide, with a fringe at the bottom. But few of the men were tattooed, and they very slightly. Their canoes were ingeniously wrought, of a great many pieces of light wood, which were laced together by twine, made from the husk of the cocoa-nut; but they were so leaky as to keep one man baling constantly. They were very narrow, sharp at both ends, and had a small platform of light wood, on one side, to keep them upright. They resembled the canoes of the Duke of York and Clarence islands, but were rather narrower, and made with better workmanship. The canoe sails, of all these islands, are mats of straw or grass.

As soon as the captain returned on board, we got underway, and bade adieu to Byron's Island, and its inhabitants, whose acquaintance had been productive of nothing but anxiety and perplexity. We run off W. by S., and in three or four hours made Drummond's Island, ahead, distant three or four leagues.

At daylight, we passed a reef of considerable extent upon the N.E. end of the island, and ran down upon the west side of it. When we had approached the shore, within the distance of a league, canoes made their appearance in every direction, sailing off to us. We stood in, and found anchorage within two cables' length of the bank of coral, that stretched one or two miles from the shore, and which, at low water, was almost every where dry. Here we hove to, having in sight, along the shore, twenty or thirty large villages, besides other habitations, that were thickly interspersed amongst the trees beyond it. The island, indeed, was swarming with inhabitants, and, from its extent and forest of cocoa-nut trees, seemed well adapted to sustain a large population. It was low, and being quite level, promised but a poor prospect of affording a supply of water. We had not been long hove to, before we were surrounded by from one to two hundred canoes, having in each of them, with few exceptions, two men and a woman, the latter of whom was kept constantly employed baling the water out. They betrayed a greater degree of timidity than the natives of any island we had seen before, keeping in their canoes, at a distance from us, or approaching, with caution and distrust. At length some of them got on board, and others hung upon the sides of the vessel, talking and exchanging their cocoa-nuts, and flying-fish, for old nails, or pieces of tin. One of them, an interesting looking youth, was noticed by one of the seamen, who made him several presents, and in other respects, treated him very kindly. The youth appeared to be sensible of the favour shown him, and expressed his gratitude by smiles, and by repeatedly patting the sailor on the shoulder; but, after this dumb show had been going on for some time, and when his patron's face was turned from him, he snatched his hat from his head, and jumped overboard with it, making his way as expeditiously as possible to the nearest canoe. The canoe took him in, and pulled off dead to windward of us, until they were out of our reach, although we threw several shot over their heads, to convince them of the danger they encountered in such bold adventures. From our first stopping place, we ran down a few miles, followed by all the canoes, which were joined by many more. Some of the natives again came on board, and one man, to whom the captain had made presents, seized upon a fixture of the waist-boat, and abruptly took his leave. He was as suddenly saluted with a charge of bird-shot, from a pistol, but manfully clung to his prize, and bore it off in triumph to his canoe. Aided by his companion, he was playing us the same trick, as the fellow who stole the sailor's hat. But a few shot over their heads brought them to, when they lay down in the bottom of the canoe, until we lowered a boat, and sent it to them. When they saw the boat approaching, they took to their paddles, and made an effort to escape; but, finding that impossible, jumped overboard, and continued diving from one side of the canoe to the other, until they were taken. They trembled excessively, expressing a great deal of alarm, upon being brought on board, and made several attempts to escape. The captain inflicted upon the thief, a punishment, that he thought might be a useful admonition to the natives, in their future intercourse with white men, when, with his companion, he jumped overboard, apparently delighted, in having escaped so well. The number and enterprising character of the people, changed our purpose of attempting to obtain a supply of water, by digging wells. And, besides the above objection, it was to be expected that, in the performance of our duty, at the Mulgrave Islands, it would be necessary for us to explore the whole group, where, within so great a compass, our wants could scarcely fail to be supplied. Accordingly, in the evening, we made sail, and, after clearing the island, hauled up to the northward and westward. The inhabitants of Drummond's and Byron's Islands, were, in all respects, similar to each other, even to their canoes and sails, the latter of which was a coarse matting of grass.

During our passage from Drummond's Island to the Mulgraves, which was of nine days' duration we had squally weather, and were constantly affected by violent currents, for which, as they were irregular, no allowance could be made. On the second day after our departure from Drummond's Island, our safety was considerably endangered from this cause. Being near a chain of small islands belonging to the Kingsmill Group, the weather thick and squally, we stretched off, calculating that, at meridian, on the following day, we should be thirty miles to the northward of them; but, to our surprise, when at meridian the weather cleared, and we got our observations, instead of being thirty miles to the northward, we were as much to the south, having been carried through them by a current at night. We were two or three days in the vicinity of the Mulgraves', laying to at night, and drifting with the current nearly as much as we advanced through the day, with light and baffling winds.

On the evening of November, the nineteenth, the welcome hail of "Land! ho!" was given, and shortly afterwards it was seen from the deck, two leagues off. It proved to be the easternmost of the Mulgraves', for which we run down on the following morning, and anchored on the lee shore, within less than a cable's length of the surf, in six fathoms water.

The island was low, of coral formation, and, in all respects, resembled Caroline, Clarence, York, Byron's, and Drummond's Islands. The inhabitants were not numerous, and differed from all we had seen before in dress and manners. They gave us a most kind and hospitable reception, freely offered whatever any of us expressed a wish for, and in all respects acquitted themselves in a manner highly satisfactory. Near our landing place we had the satisfaction to find two or three old wells of water, which, after being cleared out, would afford us a supply without much labour in getting it off, the landing being tolerably good.

On the twenty-first and twenty-second of November, we filled our water-casks, and, with several parties, explored the island. In our search we found a whaler's lance, and several pieces of old canvass; but all our efforts to obtain a knowledge, from whence they came, or of the persons who brought them, were unavailing. Some of the natives came on board, all of whom were neatly ornamented. They wore wreaths of flowers round their heads, bracelets and necklaces of beautiful shells; a large roll of leaves, from one to two inches in diameter, through slits in their ears, and as a covering for their loins, two bunches of a kind of grass, that resembled hemp, hanging below their knees, one bunch being behind, and the other before. Nothing was stolen by them. They behaved in a most orderly manner, looking round the deck inquiringly, or seated themselves, and chatted familiarly with our people, taking pains to make themselves understood. In their look and action they appeared to be lively and intelligent; but whenever the subject of our visit was pressed upon them, by pointing to the whaler's lance, they became silent, pretending to be ignorant of our meaning. The activity of our exploring parties, in traversing all parts of the island, and our close examination of every thing amongst them, that had belonged to the whites, produced a sensible alarm by the third day; and, besides the desertion of their habitations by some of them, a large canoe was missing, that had departed from the island during the night.

Beyond us, to the south and west, was a range of islets, as far as we could see from the masthead, and having thoroughly explored the island, where we were anchored, completed our watering, and made such repairs upon the vessel as were necessary, we determined to proceed further in that direction. At our anchorage here the wind several times changed from blowing off shore, which, as we had not room to ride in shore of our anchor, made it, upon such occasions, necessary to get underway, and stand off. At such times, we remarked, with particular satisfaction, the advantage we possessed in our vessel, being schooner rigged, as none but a fore and after could, with the same facility, have performed the delicate operation of getting underway, and crawling off, when riding upon a lee shore, within a few fathoms of the rocks, to have touched which would inevitably have been attended with shipwreck.

Upon the island, besides cocoa-nut, there were a few bread-fruit trees, growing in great luxuriance. The golden yellow fruit, with which the females of Nooaheeva ornamented their necks, grew here in the greatest abundance, and was eaten by the natives almost constantly, who called it bup. A species of small rat, with a tuft of hair upon the tail, was very numerous, and so tame, that hundreds of them were constantly feeding about the huts.

The first land we approached in proceeding to the southward and westward, was a narrow islet, made up of dry reefs, and verdant spots, from one to two miles long, and two hundred yards wide. On most of the islets grew cocoa-nut, and bread-fruit trees,—the invariable indication of inhabitants. They were, however, but thinly inhabited. Some of the reefs that connected them were covered with water sufficiently for the passage of a boat. The captain landed upon the eastern extremity, where he found a few people, most of whom fled at his approach, and such as remained, were so timid, that we could hardly look upon them as the countrymen and near neighbours of the natives, who had treated us with so much kindness at our anchorage.

A small canoe came off, paddled by one man, who ventured on board, and looked round for a few minutes, when he departed, without seeming to have had any other object in view than to gratify his curiosity. We should have suspected him of being a spy, had we not believed these people too simple, to adopt such an expedient of civilization. This we, however, afterwards ascertained was the capacity in which he came, having been sent by the principal chief of all the Mulgrave Group.

The schooner coasted along the islands, keeping way with the captain, who continued on to the westward, examining all parts of it. Beyond, in what we afterwards ascertained was an inland sea of great extent; several large sail canoes were discovered coming from a distant islet. The captain crossed the reef into the inland sea, where he found the water smooth, but every where filled with shoals of coral. Without indicating a wish to examine the canoes, which might have caused them to put back, he soon afterwards returned on board, and another boat was sent to continue the examination of the islet, as we advanced. The officer prevailed upon some natives, that he met with, to come near him, and one of them gave him, in return for a present, some glass beads. Upon arriving at the western extremity of the islet, the captain put off for the shore, where he found four large canoes hauled up on the beach, and those he had seen before, coming over the inland sea, just in the act of landing. As we afterwards ascertained, it was the high chief of the Mulgrave Group, with from fifty to a hundred of his chiefs and warriors, on a cruise of observation, to satisfy himself who, and what we were, and what was the object of our visit to his lonely and unfrequented isle. None of the chiefs had any thing to distinguish them, so that we knew not but that they were here upon some ordinary pursuit, otherwise, their presence would have excited in us a much more lively interest. As it was, we were gratified to have an opportunity of seeing so many of the natives, with their canoes, which we could examine, for proofs of the crew of the Globe having landed upon these islands, of which we were already pretty well satisfied from what we had seen. The fact was satisfactorily proved in a few minutes afterwards, by our discovering upon the platform of their canoes the lids of several sailors' chests. On a farther examination, pieces of cloth and ash-spars were also found. The natives were watching our every look and motion, and notwithstanding their pretended apathy and indifference, could not conceal the intense excitement that our close examination produced amongst them, It soon gave rise to an animated conversation, which was accompanied with angry looks, and the only satisfaction they gave us, when we pointed to the chest-lids, was a vacant stare, or a few words of their island language not more intelligible. Not far from the beach was a pleasant grove of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, through which was scattered a number of neat little Indian huts. One of them, near the shore, was frequented by a great many of the natives, with whom our people freely mingled. It was about ten feet high, and above the ground; had a small garret, which was screened from observation by a floor of sticks, thickly interwoven with leaves. Although most of the huts had been examined by our men, it was our good or ill fortune, that this, where so many were constantly assembled, should escape observation. We should there have found one of the men, as he afterwards informed us, for whom we were so anxiously looking; but the discovery might have been attended with bloodshed, and, perhaps, fatal consequences to our shore party, than whom the natives were much more numerous.

William Lay, one of the Globe's crew, had been brought to this islet, by the chiefs, to be used as circumstances might suggest. He was concealed in the garret of the hut, and guarded by a number of old women, who were directed, the first whisper of noise that he made, to put him to death, the chiefs having also denounced their heaviest vengeance upon him, if he should, in any way, disclose the secret of his being there. He lay in this unhappy situation for several hours, listening to the interchange of opinion amongst his countrymen, from whose conversation he was informed of the character of our vessel, and the object of her cruise.

Towards sun-down, when our parties were weary with the labour of the day, they repaired on board for the night, and the natives, getting into their canoes, took their departure from the islet, and steered away, over the inland sea, until they were lost in the horizon. We stood off and on during the night, and, at nine in the morning, anchored in nine fathoms water, near our place of landing. Here there was a channel into the inland sea, having nearly water enough for the schooner, and through which we made an unsuccessful attempt to pass. Our situation was now becoming very unpleasant. It was necessary for us to have parties on shore, exploring the islands, and the remainder of the crew was quite insufficient to get the vessel underway,—an expedient indispensable, whenever the wind came on shore, as the anchorage hardly ever extended more than half a cable's length from it. That we might lose nothing from delay or want of perseverance, however, soon after we came to, an officer, with a party of eleven men, attended by a boat to take them over the drowned reefs, was sent to march round, and explore the islets, that formed a continued chain to the southward and westward of us. We felt a conviction, from the conduct of the natives, that they were unwilling to give us the intelligence we required, and that we must depend entirely upon our industry and good fortune, for any discovery we might make. In the evening we sent a boat to communicate with our party, but they had advanced so far, that she returned without seeing any of them.

On the following day, November the twenty-fifth, the weather clear and pleasant, a boat was sent with refreshments to our exploring party, who were overtaken at the distance of ten miles from us, just commencing their morning's march. The islets, thus far, were narrow, not averaging a quarter of a mile in breadth, and but thinly inhabited. Our party were pleased with the conduct of the natives they had seen. They gave them cocoa-nuts, without receiving any thing in return, and in the evening, when they stopped to repose for the night, provided them with huts to sleep in. The officer of the party, in the course of the day's march, found a mitten, with the name of Rowland Coffin marked on it, who, by referring to a list of the Globe's crew, proved to be one of the boys left with the mutineers. From the place where the party was found, the extent of the island could not be seen. I landed at the settlement where we were anchored, and found the hats nearly all deserted. Such of the natives, as remained, seemed disposed to be very friendly, and followed me to the beach, where I shot a few sand-snipe, which drew from them loud shouts of applause, on witnessing the effect of my musket. Near the huts I observed a number of small white cranes, one of which I shot, supposing them to be wild, but afterwards regretted it very much, on learning that they were domesticated, and held in great reverence by the natives.

At five in the morning, November the twenty-sixth, a squall arose from the eastward, which struck the vessel adrift, in the direction of the trending of the land, and, dragging off the bank, we hove the anchor up, and stood along shore to the westward. When we had run fifteen or twenty miles, we came up with our party, to whom we sent refreshments, and proceeded on, passing several remarkable points.

At three, P.M., we came to, under a point, by which we were somewhat protected from the sea, in ten fathoms of water, and about thirty fathoms from the coral rocks, where there was but three feet. We were considerably in advance of our party, whom we had now determined should march round the whole circle of islets, if information of the mutineers should not sooner be obtained. In front of us the islet was wider than any we had seen elsewhere, and presented a noble forest of cocoa-nut, interspersed every where with the broad green leaves of the bread-fruit tree, which indicated a most luxuriant growth. Huts were scattered about through the trees, and some close to the shore, forming a peaceful and romantic scene. The landing was good at low water, and practicable at high tide. As far as we could see to the westward, the land still continued.

The surgeon, who was very much debilitated, when we sailed from the coast of Peru, had gradually, and almost imperceptibly, become more feeble, and for some time past believed that he had a disease of the liver. Until within two days of coming to our present anchorage, he discharged his ordinary duties, in attending the sick, when his mind began to fail, and it was evident to us that the period of his existence was near its close. He lay for a time in a state of insensibility, receiving the little aid that his friends could afford him; and at forty-five minutes after four, P.M., November the twenty-seventh, breathed his last, deeply lamented by all the crew, to whom he had greatly endeared himself, by kind and assiduous attentions, even when he was extremely ill, and knew that he was fast hastening to the close of life. In the morning, I took a party of men on shore, and in a grove, at the foot of a wide-spreading bread-fruit tree, made the narrow bed of our departed messmate. At nine, the vessel struck adrift, and dragged off the bank. When she again stood in towards the shore, we landed, with as many of the officers and men as could be spared to bury the doctor's remains, with the honours of war. The natives assembled, to the number of twenty or thirty, and followed us to the grave, watching all our motions with an expression of great surprise. They were silent until the first discharge of musketry, when they burst into loud shouts and laughter, for which we drove them back, with threats of punishment, a considerable distance from us, where they afterwards remained quiet. At the foot and head of the grave we planted seeds of orange, lemon, and cheramoya, and upon the bread-fruit tree, at the head of it, carved his name, rank, and the vessel to which he belonged. Below this we spiked, firmly upon the tree, a brass plate, with his name, age, the vessel to which he belonged, and the day of his death inscribed upon it. A little to the eastward of the grave we had the satisfaction to find two springs of excellent water.

On the following morning our party arrived, and, after receiving refreshment, continued on to the northward and westward. They crossed a long reef, that connected the islet abreast of us with another, at the distance of a few miles, that had the appearance of a large settlement, from the immense cocoa-nut forests that rose in that direction. Soon after crossing the reef, and arriving at the extreme east end of the islet, where it was narrow and sandy, they suddenly came to a place that was strewed with several hundreds of staves of beef and pork barrels, and old pieces of canvass and cloth. In advancing a little further, they found a skeleton, lightly covered with sand, and a box, containing a few Spanish dollars. The natives, some of whom had been constantly following our party, and occasionally mingling with them, and administering, as well as they could to their wants, upon approaching this place disappeared, or were seen at a distance, skulking through the bushes. These discoveries excited the liveliest expectation of soon making others more satisfactory, and proceeding a mile further, they found an unoccupied hut, where, night approaching, they encamped. Early in the morning they took up their line of march, and had not gone far, when it was evident that the natives were preparing for hostilities. Groups of them were frequently seen at a distance, armed with spears and stones, and holding animated discussions. They were much more numerous than our party, who, upon examining their ammunition, found it was wet, and that the few arms they had, which were no other than a pistol, for each man, were also wet, and unfit for immediate use. The officer, therefore, determined to retreat to the place of his night's encampment, until he could despatch information of his situation, and ask for a reinforcement and ammunition. On arriving where he had spent the night, he found that the hut he had occupied was gone, and also that a large sail canoe, he left there, had been taken away. Not a single person was any where to be seen. Here he remained, sending two of his party to the schooner, which was now several miles from him. A little after meridian, we received them on board, and heard, with great interest, the information they gave. There was no doubt in our minds, that this was the place where the mutineers, and others of the Globe's crew, had been left,—but where are they now?—was a question, which naturally occurred to us. We had given the natives no cause, to excite them to hostility; but, on the contrary, had taken every means that suggested itself, to gain their confidence and esteem. If they wished to make war upon us, opportunities had been frequently presented, when our exploring party might have been assailed by overpowering numbers, with a prospect of success, of which they had not availed themselves, and here they were now apparently wavering between peace and war, just at the moment of our discovering the place where our countrymen had been. We knew not how to account for this change in their conduct, but by supposing that the mutineers were amongst them, and that, from our near approach, they were becoming alarmed for their safety, and had roused the natives to war, with the hope of defending themselves by open combat. If this supposition were true, and it seemed very probable, the situation of our party was very critical, and no time was to be lost in giving them the aid they asked for, and renewing our search with redoubled activity. The launch was hoisted out, and fitted with all possible expedition, and at four, P.M., November twenty-ninth, sailed with two officers and eleven men, together with the three belonging to the party, being all that we were willing to spare from the schooner, as a bold attempt upon her by a large party of the natives, led on by an enterprising and desperate chief, might have placed her and the lives of all her crew in the greatest jeopardy. I crossed the reef, which was sufficiently overflown by the high tide, to admit of it, and ran down in the inland sea to the encampment of our party, where I arrived at eight in the evening, and found them all safe; but looking for our appearance, with the greatest anxiety. I allowed the boat's crew to land, and get their supper in company with those on shore, preparatory to commencing their night's work. When we were prepared for our departure, and had embarked, I was greatly chagrined on examining the boat, to find that the shore party, to whom I had brought fresh arms and ammunition, had, in their over-anxiety to be well supplied, deprived me of part of mine, and I was under the necessity of landing, and searching, not only the men, but even the bushes, before I found them.

Our party had acquired no information since morning, but from the discoveries that had already been made, we felt satisfied, that on the following day, we should find other traces of the mutineers. In taking my departure, I stretched off with a fine breeze, but it was blowing directly from the point to which I wished to steer. I suffered the men to lay down and refresh themselves with sleep, whilst midshipman S. and myself steered the boat, and to my regret, in returning back towards the shore from whence I had started, discovered that we had lost ground; besides, our boat being clumsy and badly fitted, we found that we had to contend with a strong current. I got the oars out, therefore, and pulled dead to windward until day-light, when having proceeded about six miles, we again made sail to the northward and eastward, close haul upon a wind; it gradually veered, until I could head for an island eight or ten miles from us, which just appeared above the horizon, and where I designed to land and give the men breakfast. When within two or three miles of the island, I observed a number of canoes leaving places nearer to me and landing upon it. Two canoes had put off from thence, and were standing for me as I was beating with my clumsy boat to weather an intervening coral reef; they were manned with about twenty natives, all armed with spears and stones. When they had approached me pretty near, and were passing under my lee, I ran alongside to examine them, for which they gave us a great many cross looks. As soon as I suffered them to depart, they immediately returned to the shore from whence they came, and where I not long afterwards discovered about twenty canoes that would carry from twenty to forty men each.

The canoes I had boarded, sailed at least three miles to my one, and I now discovered the impossibility of possessing ourselves of the mutineers of the Globe, whilst they, or the natives, if friendly, to them, had the disposal of such fleet vessels, with which to avoid us whenever our too near approach endangered their safety. I determined, therefore, to take possession of all that were now assembled, even though I should be opposed by the natives, and reduced to the necessity of measuring our strength with them.

The island was small, producing but few nut trees, and having but a small number of huts upon it, notwithstanding which, there were several hundreds of people assembled;—a great crowd, considering the thinly populated state of the islands. But as this large assemblage could only have been brought together from some extraordinary cause, I determined to land and search their huts, and look round, before I made so wide a breach with them, as must necessarily result from the seizure of their canoes. I was sorry to see, on our coming near them, that they were sending their women and children towards the huts, which were at a short distance from the assemblage of natives; a movement that indicated a want of confidence in us on their part, or what was still less agreeable to us, a disposition to hostility.

There was some surf on the shore where we were about to land near the canoes, and that the boat might be the more readily at our disposal when we should have occasion for her after landing, I dropped an anchor, and was in the act of veering to through the surf, when, to my astonishment, a person dressed and looking like a native, addressed us in our own language. He was standing upon the beach thirty or forty yards distant, and half way between us and the natives, all of whom had seated themselves. The first words that we understood, were, "The Indians are going to kill you: don't come on shore unless you are prepared to fight." The scene now presented to us, inspired an indescribable sensation; for, although we were convinced that this was one of the men we were so anxiously looking for, his sudden and unexpected appearance, his wild attire, and above all, his warning, seemed like an illusion of fancy. His hair was long, combed up, and tied in a knot on the top of his head; round his loins, he wore a large mat, finely wrought, and the use of cocoa-nut oil, and the action of a tropical sun, for nearly two years, had made his skin almost as dark as that of the natives. He earnestly repeated, several times, that we must not land unless we were prepared to fight, and described the plan the natives had concerted with him, which was, to prevail upon us to come on shore and seat ourselves amongst them, when, at a given signal, they would all rise and knock us on the head with stones. This statement was probable enough, but the suspicion that this was one of the mutineers, very naturally occurred to our minds, with the questions, "Why have we not found him before? and, why does he not now fly to us for protection, if he is innocent?"—forgetting that our contemptible numbers precluded all idea of safety to him, if opposed by the numerous assemblage of natives by whom he was surrounded. I asked his name, which he told me was William Lay, and that he was one of the crew of the Globe. His stature and juvenile appearance, answered the description we had of him. I told him to come to the boat, but he said that he was afraid of the natives, who had directed him not to advance any nearer to us. I then directed him to run to us and we would protect him; but he declined, saying, that the natives would kill him with stones before he could get there. During all this time, they thought he was arranging their plan for us to come on shore, and called out frequently to him to know what we said; to which, he replied in a way calculated to suit his purpose.

After discharging and re-loading our pistols, with one of which and a cartridge-box each man was provided, we landed, and marched up to the place where Lay was standing. Still doubting whether he were not more foe than friend, and determined that, under any circumstances, he should not escape, I received him with my left hand, presenting, at the same time, a cocked pistol to his breast. I was not insensible to the sentiment my harsh reception was calculated to inspire; but circumstanced as I was, I could not risk every thing in preference to inflicting a momentary pang, keenly as it might be felt. I repeated the question, "Who are you?" to which he replied, "I am your man," and burst into tears. I told him then to say to the natives, that if they rose from their seats, or threw a stone, we would shoot them all; but the poor fellow, delirious with joy for the moment, knew not what he said, and, instead of obeying my command, called out in half English, and half Island language, in broken sentences, most of which was unintelligible to us; amongst other things, he exclaimed, "they are going to kill me, they are going to kill me." I ordered him to be silent, and then asked, why he told them we were going to kill him.—Recollecting himself immediately, he begged my pardon, declaring that he knew not what he was saying. By this time, some of the natives had risen, and were becoming very animated and violent in their conversation and gestures. Two or three of them advanced towards us; I pointed my pistol at them, and made Lay repeat my threat, which had the desired effect on all but one old man, who, unarmed, advanced in defiance of me. Lay desired me to suffer him to approach, which he did, and taking hold of Lay's hand with both of his, he asked what his countrymen were going to do with him. Lay explained to him, in a few words, as clearly as he could, at which the old man seemed much affected. This was his benefactor, the person to whom he was indebted for life; and the poor fellow seemed not wanting in sensibility or gratitude, at the moment of their parting. He embraced him affectionately, told him that he would see him again before he departed, and wept like a child. I was unwilling to remain longer than was absolutely necessary, lest the natives, when they had recovered from their first surprise, should conceive a contempt for our small number, and make trial of our strength, in which I knew they would be much superior to us, if they were determined and brave, as the first discharge of our pistols would place us upon an equality with the same number as ourselves. I therefore cut short Lay's interview with his friend, and hastened him to the boat; there he wept for joy, and gave us several proofs of the agitated state of his mind. His first impulse, which did great credit to his heart, was, to inquire if his friends were well, and then recollecting that it was probable none of us knew them, told us he belonged to East Saybrook, Connecticut, and asked if any of us were acquainted in that section of the country. He several times repeated the same questions, forgetful that he had asked them before, and that we had replied in the negative. When his mind was a little composed, we made inquiries of him respecting the rest of the Globe's crew, who had been left on the island; to which he answered, that they were all dead except Cyrus H. Huzzy, who was on an island a few miles to windward of us, and now full in sight. He asked, with an expression of great solicitude, if we would go for Huzzy, and when I told him we would, it seemed to afford him not less pleasure than his own deliverance. He stated that he and Huzzy both knew that we were in search of them, and that our vessel was a man of war. He said that the chiefs had sent spies on board of the schooner every day when it was practicable, who had communicated to them the number of guns we carried, and, within a very few, the number of which the crew consisted. They had apprised them of the force and conduct of our exploring party, descending to the minutest particulars, and even describing most of the individuals on board. They had seriously debated the question of making war upon us several times, and always consulted Lay and Huzzy as to the propriety of it, and what would probably be their prospect of success. They dissuaded them from it, of course, and filled them with apprehension, by declaring, repeatedly, that we were invincible, and that there was scarcely any thing we could not accomplish with our six-pounders; they even made them believe, trifling as our armament was, that we could sink the islands with our cannon: so ready is the human mind to receive for truth what it cannot comprehend, if recommended by superior intelligence, though it may be at variance with every thing in nature or reason.

The natives were told to let us go where we pleased, without molesting us in any way, to give us whatever we asked for, and, at all times, to show themselves friendly to us. They had strictly pursued the course of conduct pointed out to them by the young white men, in whose superior knowledge of us and our prowess, they placed every reliance; but still they doubted the probability of conciliating our friendship in the sequel, and adhered tenaciously to the idea of accomplishing our destruction in some way, to make their own security the more certain. With this object, a variety of plans were submitted at different times, to Lay and Huzzy, by those amongst the chiefs esteemed the wisest and bravest, all of which were discouraged, and the success of such an undertaking in any way, as frequently declared to be utterly hopeless.

One of their plans was, to get alongside of us at night, unobserved, and with some of the sharp instruments they had obtained from the Globe, make a hole in the bottom of the vessel, and sink her; when, they very truly believed, that those who were not drowned, would be an easy prey to them, and that the party on shore, unaided by the schooner, might soon be overcome and destroyed by their superior numbers.

Another of their plans, and the most plausible one, was, to assemble secretly all the canoes of the islands, at some point not distant from us, and approaching under cover of the night, surprise and board us.

If this last plan had been put into execution, in a dark night, it is possible that it might have succeeded, as we could hardly have seen them in time to use our cannon, and the fire of musketry which they had heard before, would probably not have driven them back when they had advanced near to us, particularly if, as might be apprehended, at night, the fire were not directed effectively. They would not have found us entirely unprepared; for, under the impression that the mutineers were still living, and on terms of friendship with the natives, we were on the lookout for such an attempt being made, as it seemed to be the only means by which they could possibly escape, and the plan which would most naturally occur to desperate men in their situation.

In advancing towards the island where we expected to find Huzzy, Lay told us that the island where we found him was a favourite place for fishing at a particular season, when numerous shoals of fish swam upon its shore. Our schooner was anchored at the place of residence of the high chief, who, with those we found assembled upon the small island, had fled there to avoid us. The boat's crew being oppressed with fatigue and hunger, I landed upon a dry reef, after proceeding a few miles to give them rest and refreshment. It was painful to witness Lay's anxiety to depart, who, fearing a messenger might be despatched to the chief who had Huzzy in custody, kept his eyes fixed upon us with an anxious, hurrying look, and several times expressed his fears that the chiefs might have the boldness to attempt his rescue. On finishing our frugal repast, we pulled up under an uninhabited point of Lugoma's Island, (this was the name of Huzzy's chief,) which, having passed without observation, an ample bay, upon the shore of which was situated the village of the chief, opened to our view; and, to our great joy, the only sail canoe in his possession, was seen hauled up on the beach. For a few moments, no one was seen; but when we were in the act of landing, Lugoma and several old women came walking down to the beach, attracted by the strange and unexpected appearance of our boat. They were struck with the utmost consternation at beholding Lay, who was still in his native dress; and the old women began calling out, in a loud tone, demanding of him what he was doing there, and what we wanted. Before he had time to reply to them, I got out of the boat, and taking, hold of Lugoma, and pointing a pistol at him, bade Lay say to him, that unless Huzzy was brought to me immediately, I would kill him. He begged that I would not hurt him, and said Huzzy was near and should come to me. The old women, alarmed for the safely of the chief, instantly ran off, calling aloud for Huzzy. It was but a few minutes before he appeared, walking towards us, with his fine yellow hair hanging in ringlets about his shoulders, and his person quite naked, with the exception of a piece of blanket, tied round his loins. When he had approached sufficiently near, and I said to him, "Well, young man, do you wish to return to your country?" his eyes filled with tears as he replied, "Yes, sir; I know of nothing that I have done for which I should be afraid to go home."

As soon as Lugoma felt relieved from his apparently dangerous situation, he began to express his solicitude for Huzzy, begging that I would not hurt him; and when he was assured that no injury was intended towards his son, as has called Huzzy, entreated me not to take him away. The old women united with the chief in the expression of their wishes, and seemed, by their loud talk and significant gestures, to insist upon the white man's remaining with them. The scene was an interesting one, and we found a picturesque group assembled on a beautiful lawn, in front of a number of huts, surrounded by cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees. Huzzy owed his life to the native chief; he had been in the condition of a slave to him for two years. To him he was indebted for many acts of kindness, some of which he had requited by his industry in his service, and some had been cancelled by harsh treatment; yet, still he stood in a delicate situation towards the chief. The saving of his life alone, conferred an obligation upon him, which could scarcely be repaid by long and faithful services. The chief evidently appeared to regard him as his son, and when the moment of our departure arrived, and he saw we were determined to take our countryman with us, he joined tears to entreaties, saying he should weep long and bitterly for him. He told Huzzy that he must come back again, and asked me if I would bring him. As the only way in which I could get clear of so strange a petition, urged with so much feeling, I promised to bring him back if his mother consented to his return. With this, he appeared to be tolerably well satisfied, and we were about returning to the boat, when Lugoma took Huzzy aside to talk to him privately. When their interview was ended, I asked Huzzy what the chief had been saying to him; to which he replied, that he had been reminding him how difficult it would be for him to get along with his work without him, and that he must return as soon as he could, and bring with him some axes, guns, and cloths, such as his countrymen wore. "I have promised to bring them," said he, "when I return, and he is quite satisfied." When we were ready to depart, to conciliate the good will of the female part of Lugoma's family, I presented them with a variety of trifles, such as finger-rings, glass beads, &c., for which, in return, they loaded me with a profusion of small mats, and rude shell ornaments, accompanied with many expressions of thankfulness and regard. When I came to take leave of Lugoma, I presented him with a jack-knife. With the exception of an axe, I could have given him nothing more valuable, and it gained for me his unreserved confidence. He immediately proposed going with me to the schooner, and got into the boat with his son, a lad eight years old. Huzzy took with him a musket and a Bible, the only things he had saved at the massacre. The first had been preserved for him by the chief, who thought that with this in Huzzy's hands, although he had no powder, he was a match for all his enemies; and the Bible he had clung to himself, and had kept as the companion of his lonely hours. The Bible was more an object of curiosity to the natives than any thing else they found in the possession of the white men: they often inquired of Huzzy what it was, its use, &c., and his explanations seemed only to increase their superstition and aversion to it. They were never pleased to see him retire to the garret of his little hut, to read it, as was his custom; and invariably remonstrated with him against it. They urged him frequently to destroy it, and when he refused, they threatened to do it themselves. As the reason of their dislike, they said it would bring spirits round the house that would kill or hurt some of the family. Huzzy told them, that if they destroyed it, the Great Spirit would come and kill them all; to which he was probably indebted for its preservation.