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In Barbary

ILLUSTRATIONS

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FACING PAGE

A soldier of Africa Frontispiece

Lo, all the pomp of yesterday 17

Here Scheherazade might have told her tales 32

Church and state in Tunisia 37

Thirteen centuries look down upon you 44

A gate to Barbary 49

They spend their holidays among the dead 64

The city of the mole-men 85

Homes of the Troglodytes 92

The voice from the minaret 97

The marabout in the desert 112

In the land of polygamy and passion 117

One of the most amazing ruins in the world 121

Medenine, the strangest city in the world 124

The Sun-God paints his picture in the West 129

Like feathered bonnets on the heads of a savage army 144

The fantastic dwellings of Mechounech 149

The forgotten of God 156

The sandy sea 161

Basking in the blinding sunlight of the Tunisian Sahara 176

The road to Timbuktu 181

Crossing the sand-dunes of the Grand Erg by motor 185

To prove that we were really there 188

A landmark for those who navigate the sea of sand 193

The shrine in the sands 196

The sand-storm 205

The sport of kings 208

The city of the Mozabites 213

Far hence, in some lone desert town 217

The start from Touggourt 220

The strange capital of a strange people 225

Desert damsels, old and young 229

What the pious Moslem expects to find in paradise 236

A Saharan market-place 240

The glory that was Rome 245

The city of the precipices 252

“Ul-l-l-l-l All-ah!” 273

Algiers, the capital of the Corsairs 280

Veiled women slip like sheeted ghosts 288

The resting-place of Cleopatra’s daughter 304

No, it is not always hot in Africa 321

The Moroccan is not afraid of mephitic maladies 328

The Riff 357

The price of empire 364

From out of the unknown 369

Strange folk from the far places 372

The panorama of the East 381

Forbidden to all save the faithful 384

In the city which gave the fez its name 389

Moroccan vaudeville 392

The Great Prayer outside of Fez 396

The harkas come down from the hills 401

A place of walled delight 408

The peace of Allah 416

The shadow of God on earth 421

A refuge of the rovers 424

The red city 428

The minarets of Marrákesh 433

The Aguenaou Gate of Marrákesh 437

The puppet and the man who pulled the strings 440

The empire-builder 440

Overlords of the southland 444

Most people think of Morocco as a semi-arid country 448

The stronghold of the Caïd Goundafi, overlord of the Forbidden Sus 452

A seat of feudal power 456

Maps

Outline map showing the French possessions in Africa 8

Map showing the countries of Barbary 24

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