PROPORTIONATE SYSTEM.

Most Systems of proportion, thus far issued, are projected on the breast-measure. It will be evident, on investigating the proportions of the human figure, that a System based only on one size of the body, and that its width, can never lead to the best results.

When the height and width are equal it is immaterial which we use. But this is only the case on normal sizes, from 34 to 38 breast, as all deviations from these sizes are different in their proportions of heights to the widths.

The problem to be solved in using a proportionate system is to arrange the lengths so that they agree with a certain breast size and use it for the heights.

In practice we find that the average forms, measuring from 34 to 38 breast, require and can be cut by the full breast-measure, as the lengths agree, in the majority of cases, with this size; but in larger and smaller sizes this breast-measure will either be too small or too large, therefore, in drafting any other sizes than those indicated, we must use the quantities as given in the following Table, as set opposite the full breast-measure, in order that the pattern in its length may be of correct size, and neither too small or too large.

Table of Sizes.

Breast. Size to Draft One-Half Breast-Measure. Waist.

30 15½ 22

31 15⅞ 22½

32 16¼ 23

33 16¾ 23½

34 17¼ 24

35 17⅝ 24½

36 18 25

37 18½ 25½

38 19 26

39 19½ 26½

40 20 27

41 20¼ 28

42 20¾ 29

43 21⅛ 30

44 21⅝ 31½

45 21 33

46 21⅞ 34½

47 22¼ 36

48 22¾ 37½

49 23 38½

50 23¼ 39

In considering the human body it must be allowed that sufficient and marked characteristics exist between a young girl and the full-grown woman—the slender, and the large, fleshy form. All these tend to establish that the first elements of a good System for constructing garments is a good proportionate standard.

In strict accordance with this we have given diagrams, illustrating the system by which the art of cutting is thoroughly attained; we also give the system as it should be used in drafting by measure.

Table of Sizes for Children.

Age. Breast. Waist. Length of Back to Natural Waist.

2 22 22 9

3 22¾ 22¼ 9½

4 23½ 22½ 10

5 24¼ 22¾ 10½

6 25 23 11

7 25¾ 23¼ 11½

8 26½ 23½ 12

9 27¼ 23¾ 12½

10 28 24 13

11 28¾ 24¼ 13½

12 29½ 24½ 14

13 30¼ 24¾ 14½

14 31 25 15

15 32 25 15½

Fig. 1. Fig. 2.