INDEX.

A

Awl, Heel, 104

——, Home-made, for Heeling, 12, 13

—— for Pegging on Sole, 110

——, Sewing, 57

——, Square or Stitching, 57, 94

——, Straight, Fine, 110

B

Beater, Corner, 122

—— for Driving Rivets, 152

——, Welt, 122

Beginners, Suitable Work for, 16

Bench, Shoemakers’, 18

Bevelled Appearance of Boot Soles, 134

Block Finish for Bottoms and Top-pieces, 139

Blacking Stitches, 36

Blind Welts, 95

Blinders, Use of, 113

Blinding on Top Piece, 115

Blind-stabbing, 40-43

—— Makeshift, 44

Blocking Insoles, 72

Boot, Position of, when Re-welting, 54-56

——, —— ——, for Ironing, 137

——, —— ——, for Pricking up the Stitch, 136

——, —— ——, for Stitching on the Sole, 57

Boots, Calf, Cleaning, 147

—— Falling to Pieces, 23

——, Hand-made: how they are put together, 58

——, Machine- and Hand-sewn, 19

——, Riveted, Making, 148, 153

——, Standard Screw, to distinguish, 19

Bottoms, Buff, 140

——, Damped-down, 140

——, Fillings for, 52

——, Finishing, 139

——, White, 141

Brad, French, 13

Bradding Heel-pieces, 14

Breasting the Heels, 129

Bristles for Ends of Threads, 61

Buffing-Knife, 28, 126

—— ——, Sharpening, 126

Bunion Pieces, Pegging on to Lasts, 67

Burnisher, Double-handed, 140, 143

Burnishing Ink, 155

C

Calf Boots, Cleaning, 147

Casting Model of Foot in Plaster, 69

Cement for fastening Gutta-percha Sole, 30

Chair for Shoemakers, 18

Channel, Rubbing down, 58

Channelling the Sole, 91

Cleaning Calf Boots, 147

Closing in a Patch, 32

Cloth for cleaning off Heel-ball, 139

Colouring the Soles, 136

Corners, Knocking down, 122

Corns and Bunions, Allowing for in Fitting Lasts, 68

Cost of Grindery, 9

Creaking, To Prevent, 89

Crease Iron, 142

Cut Bill, 14

D

Draft Tacks, 77

Drawing Stitches Tight, 61

F

Fake, Making, 156

——, Using, 156

Faults in Heel-making, 116, 117

Feather, Tapping Down, 147

Felt for Bottom Fillings, 52

Fittings for Lasts, 66

Flax for Stitching and Sewing, 60, 84

Flexura Spring, 111

—— Waist, 143

Fudge-wheel, 59, 135

G

Glazer, Double-handed, 140, 143

Glazing Ball, White, 142

—— Iron, 29, 134

Glue, Le Page’s Fish, 68

Graft, Sewn, 53

Grafting Welts, 54, 55

Grindery, Cost of, 9

Guard for Knife when Trimming, 106

Gum-dragon for Finishing Waists, 142

Gutta-Percha, How to Buy, 9

——, Increasing wear-resisting Qualities of, 31

—— Soles, 29, 30

H

Half-heeling, 10, 11, 14

Half-tips, Leather-plugged, 15

Hammering the Upper, 81

—— Leather, 72

Hand-leather, 61

Hand-sewn Boots, To distinguish from Machine-sewn, 19

—— ——, how they are put together, 58

Heel Awl, 104

—— Making, 99-119

Heel-ball, Black, 155

——, Cleaning off, 139

——, Use of, 138

——, White, 142, 155

Heel-shave, 123

Heels, Bradding, 14

——, Breasting, 129

——, Buffing, 126

——, Completing, 114

——, Dressing, 106

——, Faults in, 116, 117

——, Fixing with Screws, 16

——, Horsing the Back of, 76

——, Importance of Keeping Level, 9, 11

——, Military, 118

——, Peening, 106, 123

——, Pitch of, 104

——, Range and Pitch of, 117, 118

——, Sand-papering, 127

——, Sewing down, 104, 105

——, Shape of, 118

Holing Inner Sole, 73

Hook, Last, 144

Horsing the Back of Heel, 76

I

Ink, Burnishing, 155

Inking the Soles, 136

Inner Sole, Holing, 73

Insoles, Blocking, 72

Instep Leather, 67

Invisible Patches, 37-40

Iron, Crease, 142

——, Double, 132

——, Forepart, 133

——, Lap, 20

——, Waist, 132

Ironing, 134, 137, 138, 153

Irons, 20, 130-134, 142

——, Heating, 137

J

Joint Leather, 67

K

Knife for Breasting Heels, 129

Knife, Buffing, 126

——, ——, Sharpening, 126

——, Welt, 128

Knifing-up the Seat, 130

—— —— the Sole, 89, 90, 120

—— —— Waist, 122

L

Lamp, Spirit, for Heating Irons, 137

Lap Iron, 20

Last Fitting, Preparatory to Re-soling, 50

—— Hook, 144

——, Shape of, 25, 65

——, Taking out of Boots, 144

Lasting Light Leather Tops, 154

——, Principles of, 75

—— Riveted Boots and Shoes, 149

—— Stout Leather, 78

—— Tack, 76

—— the Toe, 79, 80, 153

—— the Top, 108

Lasts, Fitting up to Measure, 64

——, —— to Shape of Foot, 68

——, Fittings for, 66

——, German made, 65

——, Iron, Filling up, 68

——, Measuring for, 23, 62-64

—— for Riveted Boots, 69

Leather for Awl Handle, 13

—— for Boot Bottoms, 70

—— Hand, Making, 61

—— Joint, 67

——, Quality of, 69

——, Worked “and Unworked,” 10

——, Wrinkles and Pipes in, 78, 153

Levelling up for Re-soling, 25

—— the Welt, 128

Lifts, Cutting away, 129

——, Split, for Heels, Making, 99

——, ——, Pegging on, 108

——, ——, Putting on the Heels, 101, 102

——, ——, for Riveted Boots, 153

Long Leather, 67

Loop-stitching, 46

M

Machine-sewn and Hand-sewn Boots, Distinguishing between, 19

—— Boots and Shoes, Re-soling, 21

Materials for Soling and Heeling, 9

Measuring for Lasts, 23, 62-64

P

Paring Soles, 26, 27, 55, 90, 91

Paste for Shoemakers, 18

Pasting Socks, 146

Patch, Closing in, 32

Patches, Cutting to Size, 37

——, Difference between Closed and Invisible, 38

——, Invisible, 37-40

Patching, 32-49

Pattern of Half-heel Piece, Cutting, 12

Peening the Heel, 106, 123

—— the Sole, 28, 123

Peg-Knife, 145

—— Rasp, 145

Pegged Seat, Making, 107

—— Waist, Fitting Inner Sole for, 112

—— Work, Lasts for, 69

Pegging on Sole and Solepiece, 110

—— —— Split-lift, 108

Pincers, 80

Pipes in Leather, Removing, 78, 154

Plaster Cast of Foot, Making, 69

Position of Boot for Pricking up the Stitch, 136

—— —— —— when Re-welting, 54, 56

—— —— —— when Stitching on the Sole, 57, 58

Prick-stitch, Use of, 73

Protectors, Boot, Use of, 31

R

Rasp for Smoothing, 124, 125

Rasping, 124

Re-welting and Re-soling Hand-sewn Boots, 50

Rivet Driver, 152

Riveted Boots, Lasts for, 69, 148

—— ——, Making, 148, 153

Rivets, Iron and Brass, 27

——, their Positions on the Sole, 26

—— for Soling, 23

—— their Use in Half-heeling, 11, 15

Roughness on Insides, Removing, 145

Rounding the Sole, 89, 90

Rubbing down Channel, when Re-soling, 58

—— —— Stitches, 36

Runner for Pegged Work, 113

—— for Riveted Work, 150

—— or Welt, 21

S

Sand-papering, 127

Sands’ Solution, 37

Scraper, 28

Screws for Fixing Heels, 17

Seat, Making up, 130

——, Stitching, 47

Seat, Trimming, 106

Seat-breaker, 107

Seat-Socks, 145

Seat-wheel, 130

Seatpiece, Leather for, 98

Set-off Stuff, Cost of, 70

—— —— ——, Preparing for Use, 71

Sewing, 34, 36

—— Awl, 57

—— down the Heel, 104, 105

—— in the Seat, 87, 88

——, Technical Meaning of, 57

——, Thread for, 60

——, Tightening Stitches in, 61

—— Upper to Inner Sole, 109

—— Welts, 51, 54

Sewn Graft, 53

Shank, 53

Sharpening Buffing-Knife, 126

—— Strop, 17

Side Linings, 74

—— Pin, 76

Size, Shoemakers’, 155

Skiving, 37, 45

Smoothing Insides of Boots, 145

Snow’s Leather-Plugged Half-tips, 15

Socks for Ladies’ Boots and Shoes, 146

——, Putting, into Boots, 146

—— for Riveted Boots, 152

Sole, Channelling, 91

——, Colouring, 136

——, Dividing, 72

——, Fitting in Riveted Boots, 150

——, Inking, 136

——, Inner, Holing, 73

——, Paring, 26, 27, 55, 90, 91

——, Peening, 28, 113

——, Riveted, 151

——, Rounding or Knifing-up, 89, 90

——, Rubbing down, 97

——, Stitching on, 53

Sole-plane, 125

Soles, Bevelled Appearance of, 134

——, Gutta-percha, 29, 30

——, Inferior, Using, 150

——, Old, Taking off, 21

Solution, Sands’, 37

——, Warman’s, 37, 39

Solvent for “Invisible” Patches, 37

Spring, Flexura, 111

Springs, 70

Split-lifts for Heels, Making, 99

——, Pegging on, 108

——, Putting on the Heels, 101, 102

—— for Riveted Boots, 150

Spring Waists, Finishing, 142

Squares, 70

Standard Screw Boots, To Distinguish, 19

Stands for Lasts, 23

Stiffeners, 74

Stitch, Drawing, 48

Stitches, Blacking, 36

——, Mode of Setting in Re-soling, 59

——, Rubbing Down, 36

——, Yellow, on Welt, 93

Stitching, 34, 36, 95, 96

—— Awl, 57, 94

——, Hemp and Flax for, 60, 84

——, Loop, 46

——, Seat, 47

—— on Soles, 56, 59

——, Technical Meaning of, 57

——, Thread for, 60, 84

Stripe Waist, 141

Strop, Sharpening, 17

T

Tacking the Inner Sole, 149

Tacks, Draft, 77

—— for Lasting, 76

Tapping Down the Feather, 147

Thread, 34, 36, 60

——, Breaking, 60

—— for Sewing Welts, 84

——, Smoothing, 60

——, Waxing, 60, 87

Tingles for Riveted Work, 149

Tips, Half, Leather-plugged, 15

Toe, Lasting, 79, 80, 153

Toe-cap, Loose, to Sew on, 48

Toe Piecing, 46

—— Pin, 66

Tools for Repairing, 18, 31

Top-pieces, Finishing, 142

——, Blinding on, 115

Trimming the Seat, 106

U

Under-sole, Fixing, 22

Underlaying, 16, 44, 45

Uppers, Cracks in, 35

——, Hammering, 81

——, Various Kinds of, 69

W

Waist-iron, 130, 131

Waists, Pegged, 113

——, Creasing, 143

——, Fiddle, 140, 141

——, Finishing, 140, 142

——, Flexura, 143

——, Lining, 143

——, Marking off, 136, 143

——, Polishing, 142

——, Spring, Finishing, 142

——, Square, 89, 132

——, Stripe, 141, 142

Warman’s Solution, 37, 39

Wax, Shoemakers’, 156

Wax-end, 34

Waxing Threads, 60, 87

Wear, One-sided, Allowing for, 151

Welt-Beater, 122

—— Knife, 128

Welts, 21, 70

——, Blind, 95, 136

——, Cost of, 51

—— for Dress Shoes, 83

——, Levelling, 128

——, Machine-sewn, 19

——, Preparing for Use, 51, 82

—— of Riveted, Pegged and Machine-sewn Boots, 153

——, Rounding Edges of, 52

——, Sewing, 51, 54, 83-87

——, Width of, 83

Wing, New, 35

Wrinkles and Pipes in Leather, 78, 153

Y

Yellow Stitches on Welt, 93

Printed by Cassell & Company, Limited, La Belle Sauvage, London, E.C. 30.1097