CHAP. VI.

Merissa Huts. — Arab Gratitude. — Splendid Soil. — The Pascha’s Grand Projects. — A Pleasant Servant. — Turkish Eating. — Turkish Faith. — Arabs of Hedjas. — Mehemet Ali’s Campaigns.

On one side of Mitkenab there is held every morning a great market (sukh), to which the natives come in streams, from all parts round, to dispose of cattle, grain, honey, butter, cotton cloths, &c., but all trading is by barter, and by him who has no top, or dogk[11], or such cotton stuffs as are made by the natives themselves, or at least some durra, no business is to be done, or purchases made. And even, though we had possessed all these we could not have traded, as in these villages the hatred against the army was so great, that it seemed as if all the inhabitants had mutually agreed, to allow the foe to procure nothing they could possibly prevent, by the strictest care, nor could we obtain the smallest morsel of flesh, and now much lamented we had not accepted the sheep proffered us in the morning. It is true, it only required a sign from Mohammed Din, and we would have been supplied, and in abundance, with all we could wish for; but as he mistrusted us on account of our note-takings, and classed us among the Turks, this sign he did not give. Little or no coin is to be found among these people, but they are acquainted with the Theresa-thaler, or dollar (value one thaler, twenty piastres), which they call a real, and this they demanded from us for the merest trifles, the true value of which was not two or three pence. Austria still continues to have these thalers coined from the old die, for eastern use, and these are called by the Arabs here “Abu Nukta” (father of drops, i.e., the pearls in the diadem of the Empress Maria Theresa, of which there are numbers). The Kolonates in the land of Sudan call them “Abu Mutfa,” mistaking the pillars of Hercules on them for cannon. In the Levant the Spanish money is commonly called piastres (from piasto), although it is reduced to one twentieth part of its value, and it is possible, that the Arab and Turkish words gersch and grusch for piastre, may be the origin of our groschen.

To see at least as much as possible of the village, and its environs, we two, arming ourselves only with our sabres, now set out for a walk, but without our knowing it, two completely armed Schaigies followed us, and ere long, two young lads, relations of Sheik Mussa, joined us, to provide for our safety, as we afterwards learned. The whole village is formed of mat huts, and is similar in all respects to El Soffrè; its extent is great, and its population numerous, and seemingly rich in cattle. As we marched through it, the people stared greatly at us, the women ran off to hide themselves, as if from evil spirits, and the children who rushed out from their so-called schools, laughed at and mocked us, for they had never before seen white men. To our great satisfaction, we turned into a merissa drinking shop, which, erected under a large tree, was filled with men. We seated ourselves on some square stools with backs, and were at once supplied with some stout beakers full of merissa, which, being good, we relished much, and it even made us feel somewhat in the wind. In such places, the Arabs will sit from early morning to late eve, drinking and carousing, and often eating nothing for many days, as merissa is meat and drink too. Here I remarked for the first time, that even among these dark-skinned men, some red colour is perceptible on their cheeks, such being the case with some of the topers here, who, from copious libations, had sent most of the blood into their heads, as was shown by their deeply flushed though swarthy faces. The nephew of the Sheik Mussa, whom our old camp-neighbour Mohammed Defalla had made our friend, had, on our entering, explained to the company, that we were not Turks, but Inglebs, English, a word which here seems to answer to the Frank of the East; all therefore were friendly and kind, and more so, when they found we drank stoutly. They were particularly pleased, when we taught them the a tempo drinking, in which, from our old student-habits, we came off victorious. In their now confidential intimacy, they told us, they would soon settle matters with the Turks, if Mohammed Din so willed it.

The chaaba near here shows a thick strong bush, intermixed with high old trees, the ground below strewed with uprooted trees and bearing tall grasses. Many fine trees were not to be seen as the violent and sudden hurricanes that occur in the rainy season break over or uproot the high trees, for the soil becomes so saturated with the heavy floods that the roots retain but a poor hold. The chaaba or forest extends from the Atbara to the Red Sea and upwards to Habesch. It is the abode of unnumbered elephants, many of whose immense spinal joint bones we found lying among the grass, of rhinoceroses, lions generally without manes, tigers, hyenas, giraffes, gazelles, large antelopes, wild asses, wolves, cats, &c., and immense numbers of most venomous snakes. From fear of these no Arab will at night move outside his seriba. To form a clear and broad path, such as the Romans cut through the German forests, through this overgrown and dense wilderness, would require many thousand European axes, but such as the Pascha has already given out to the soldiery, many times during our march to clear the way, would be perfectly useless for such a gigantic task. On our return to the well a little before sunset, we found all the Schaigies on the move to take possession of a seriba outside the village, partly for security against the lions, who at night come out from the forest to the water, and partly as a precaution against the hostile-minded Arabs. We could not decline going with them, and encamped with Melek Mammud, in the centre of his troop and of the seriba, thus forming the staff. In the evening some bread was brought us (thin cakes piled on each other like pancakes), but neither flesh, milk, nor butter. Fortunately we had got our rice and chammerdin; flat cakes made of apricots and other things, a sweet compound of Syria; still left us, and at length the old Chingi, whom Joseph had often in the camp given medicine to with satisfactory results, sent us some milk in a girbe. We passed the night in sound agreeable sleep, and were only once awakened by the horrible howlings of troops of hyenas prowling around the village, and setting all the dogs into commotion and uproar. At the entrance (bab) of our seriba slept Mohammed Din himself. In such good odour did we stand with the natives.

At sunrise next morning all in our seriba were in motion, as the soldiers were to accompany Mohammed Din, who was about to go, with the purpose of gathering contributions, to his tribe in the large village, Fille, which lies some two and a half or three hours’ journey to the S.E. of Sheik Mussa’s village, and is similar to all these settlements. Between the villages extend large fields or plains covered with durra, with a few trees interspersed among them. We also prepared for the march, and as we did so had again a good example of the ingratitude of these people;—the old Chingi did not blush to demand back the old worthless girbe he had sent us the night before with the milk, and which, there being yet some left in it, we had already had packed on our camel. Furious at such niggardly conduct in one who owed so much to my brother’s care and medical attention, I threw the skin, milk, and all to the ground, and rode off. We should have liked to have remained some time longer in Mitkenab, but the young relative of Sheik Mussa urged our departure, ready for which waited an Arab escort; and we held it wisest to follow his well-meant advice, the more so as a report had been spread,—we knew not how or why,—that we had been expressly sent by the Pascha to take notes of the country and all we saw, so that he might hereafter be guided by these when he advanced into it. So had we not soon taken ourselves off, it might have easily occurred to the natives that it would be as well to put such dangerous notes and note-takers out of the way. At the edge of the forest a troop of Arabs, armed with shields and lances, friends of the Sheik Mussa, awaited us and accompanied us on our journey; and as long as our way lay through this forest, we had to sit crouching on our dromedaries’ backs, from the lowness of the branches, till we again got into our old path among the durra fields. This young man, who, next morning accepting our invitation, accompanied us into the camp, acted thus to protect us from an intended attack, which might have cost us our lives, had he not fortunately heard of it, and so avoided it. This evil opinion of us Melek Mahmud afterwards confirmed, and told us the people were very much excited (salahn) from our taking such accurate notice of every thing.

Our way back led through the same country we had already seen, but our march was very slow, as our dromedaries, from all supplies being yesterday refused us, had been without food; and on their account we were often obliged to stop to allow them to browse on the trees as they went along. We again rode along the gohr in Mohammed Din’s village, and quietly dismounted at Sali Effendi’s small branch-formed hut, he having proceeded somewhere else on his tribute-collecting business. Although this hut was open on both sides, we fortunately found here a store of some pieces of flesh which we much enjoyed, and by promise of some medicine for the cholic, we obtained from a Sheik some merissa; but from the natives themselves, as before, nothing was to be had. Towards evening we reached our own camp; but some half hour before doing so we came on some trees, where many hundreds of turtle doves were roosting, so that we soon supplied ourselves with materials for a supper; though many we shot we had to leave on the ground, as we dared not venture into the bushes to pick them up, from the numerous venomous snakes and other insects, and the darkness, too, which was setting in. On our return, we had again been met by long trains of Arabs bearing away durra from the fields to their hiding places.

The cotton plantations round our camp of Aronga were, indeed, of considerable extent, and even during the present dry season offered a vigorous and fresh verdure that showed their healthiness, but neither in extent or luxuriance are they to be compared to the durra fields, nor are they, considering their great importance, at all in keeping with the numbers of the Haddenda; it is true the Haddenda are yet too much of the Bedouin,—a race that shun and despise all kinds of domestic labour, and who, if they had cotton plantations, would be tied to these spots; but loving wandering much more, they prefer bartering their durra for cloths made at Hedjas, to growing and preparing such themselves. But yet what might not be made of this splendid land, the fruitfulness of which is so well nourished by the moisture of subterraneous waters, the regular fall of rain, and overflows from the Abyssinian mountains and the hills of Kassela, Abrit, &c.,—a soil that, in spite of hurricanes and the ever repeated forest burnings, never ceases to produce splendid trees, and crops of tallest durra, without tilling or manure, with stalks of fifteen and twenty feet in height, and yielding fifteen and eighteen fold of the best sort and fullest ear, growing cotton within one year to a height of five feet. What, I ask, might not be done with and grown on such a soil? And what is it now? Nothing! save this durra, some little cotton, and a few beans;—this durra, the straws or stalk of which are left standing on the fields, the cattle turned in to feed on it, then left to wind and weather, not to decay, and so return something to the soil as manure, but to be almost wholly swept away by the floods in the rainy season; this from the extraordinary moderation of the natives answers all their wants; for with it, a little milk, and a few beans, all their wants and desires in the way of food are fully satisfied. Undoubtedly all our grains and vegetables would grow splendidly here, so that this land might be made the granary for the grain-needing Hedjas, which is only saved from famine by the gratis delivery of the whole annual crop from the district round Kenne; or when this is insufficient, has to be fed from the lands of Sint and Manfallut in Egypt. Indigo might be cultivated here as well as in Egypt, where its culture is by no means inconsiderable; rice also, tobacco, oil, flax, and especially sugar, which, from the quantity of wood in the neighbourhood might be refined on the spot, whereas it has now to be brought from India. A matter of high importance would also be the planting of date trees. For many days’ journey from Gos Rajeb, the banks of the river are covered with dhom forests; here, too, in certain spots are to be seen magnificent dhom trees, and where these flourish, all the date tribe will do so; and this might be a source of much profit, as in Egypt. Gum-trees we have as yet seen none, many as are their uses. Where now old useless fruitless trees cumber the ground, might soon flourish, oranges, sweet and bitter (Portugahn), pomegranates (Ruman), figs (tihn), nay, even the vine itself (einap).[12]

The position of the land is also highly favourable for the export of its superabundant produce. It lies between the Red Sea and the Nile: to Sauachinn, on the former, is fourteen or fifteen days’ journey for laden camels; to Berber, on the Nile, ten or twelve; from both of these places there is abundance of transport. Then it is more than probable, that, without much difficulty, the Atbara might be made navigable as far as Gos Rajeb, for at least four months in the year; for though, as far as we could judge from a view of its bed in the summer or dry season, this is full of sand banks and sunken rocks, still the banks show most plainly how high the river rises, and what an immense body of water it contains in the rainy season, and as far as my opinion goes, I see no reason why it could not be easily made available for transport. To found stores and magazines at various places, and convey the produce there would certainly be necessary, and this, ere the rainy season set in, as then all roads become impassable for man or beast. But could not these channels of communication be improved? If the natives, by widening these, cutting down the large trees, and clearing the dense bush, would only expose them to the drying powers of wind and sun, then would undoubtedly the roads be available for traffic a month earlier than now. The present so-called roads (derba, sicca, main roads) are nothing but narrow, nay often hardly traceable footpaths, at times formed by the wild animals, which, by their constant and repeated windings to avoid thickets or other small impediments, greatly lengthen the way, and such paths too are ever overgrown with trees, and choked up with brush and jungle.

At present all trade is confined to honey, durra, butter, and salt, brought by the natives on the Red Sea; but this might be much increased and extended to other articles,—cattle-breeding, for instance; the present most numerous herds, by a little attention, might be easily improved and greatly increased, as their support is a matter of no difficulty, and hides might thus become articles of trade. By like care and improvement of the flocks of sheep, wool might be added, while at present these animals are only used for their flesh, and that not as a source of gain. Even the very beasts of prey, lions, tigers, panthers, &c., although their numbers would certainly much diminish with a better cultivation of the land, might for many years to come be a source of great profit in their skins and furs. This the natives would soon find out, and with the knowledge of their value would soon evince the wish to procure them, even though at the cost of a little toil and danger. But most of all would the cotton, at present grown only in such small quantities as not to suffice for the wants of the land, become a trading object of the highest importance. When one beholds in what abundance and beauty it flourishes, even under the present careless and low culture, one must at once be convinced what an immense crop might be produced, merely by some little more attention being bestowed on it. Here there would be no need, as there is in Egypt, to provide for the regular watering of the plants, a work of immense labour; and to this great advantage it is to be added, that the larger mass of the people have at least some acquaintance with the management of this crop,—an advantage inestimable with a race that clings so inveterately to all that is handed down to them from ancient times, manners, habits, customs, modes of life and labour, and who look upon each change and innovation as a diminution of the dignity of their free descent, and a violation of their hereditary rights from oldest time. Trade in elephants’ teeth and tusks there is at present almost none, although, from the immense numbers of these animals, such might be furnished in abundance by the natives, and much more easily and readily than those brought, with long delay and much trouble, from the distant country of Darfur.

A great saving on the other hand might be made by discontinuing the expenditure at present laid out in the purchase of horses from Habesch; the breed, too, is small and ugly, and it is only too evident that here far better animals might be bred and reared. If these and the numerous oxen were trained and employed in agriculture, what a large body of men would be left disposable for other branches of industry—by their employment, arrangements might be made for a general and regular irrigation of the whole country. At present many large fields are, for irrigating purposes, intersected with ditches and small walls of six inches or one foot deep or high, but this is far from sufficient, and only by wisely regulated and extensive arrangements, could the power be attained of watering all at a wish, and only by proper machines for raising this wealth of nature from the subterraneous streams and reservoirs, could a certain and secure supply be depended on during the dry season of the year, for the crops which here require an ever copious and repeated supply of moisture. And why should not manufactures be introduced into a land where hands and wood are in plenty? Everywhere at a greater or less depth clay is to be found in abundance, and out of this, from which the natives form good and lasting dishes and water jars, surely bricks could be made. The capital required for carrying out these plans indeed would be large, but then it would as surely be repaid, and with interest, in a very few years, and it would also call into existence a people and country, who, from agriculture, manufacture, and trade, would be entitled to rank among the most thriving.

On our return to camp we were questioned by all, and about all, but most especially as to the numbers of the natives. In the evening we waited on the Pascha to report our return. He was also most curious and anxious to gain information, and to lead us to speak freely he again went over his before often declared magnificent plans for the future. His views as to the goodness of the land, and its fitness for growing all kinds of produce, as also of its happy position, were on the whole most just, only he allowed far too short a time for the realization of his ardent hopes, and would with too hasty zeal at once set about its improvement and alteration, only, like all Turks, the sooner to leave all off again. Even now, when as yet not a step had been taken, he set about counting up the sums he was to draw from these lands, for the Turk will hear or think of nothing else but gathering money in such sums as by cunning, injustice, oppression, or violence, he can lay his hands on, nor even trouble his head that in so doing he may ruin the future welfare of his subjects, and at the same time destroy all source of revenue to himself.

An idea, that has originated in the hatred borne by the races to each other, has been put into the Pascha’s head by Mohammed Ehle. This is, that the fall of the waters can be cut off above the Gohr el Gash, and thus the lands of Taka be deprived of the necessary supply for agricultural purposes, and the forests of the Chaaba be caused to wither. He now firmly believes he can carry this out, and so force the people of Taka to purchase from him, by an immense yearly tribute, the waters for the irrigation of their fields, congratulating himself greatly on the completion of this wondrous deed, of which he seems to dream day and night. How far such hopes are reasonable we cannot determine, as we know so little about the size of this gohr, and its influence on the lands of the Haddenda and others. But still we think that were the streams of the gohr diverted, sufficient water would yet sink into the ground to keep the wells supplied, and that from the falls of rain that occur before the regular rainy season, as well as from the immense floods that, according to all accounts, pour down during the Chariff, the damming up of the gohr may not have those consequences of which the Pascha dreams, and this we suspect will be the fact, even after hearing his most vivid and certainly biassed account of his scheme.

To in some degree justify so harsh a measure, the Pascha is to-day of opinion, that the present natives are mere children, and must be treated as such; that one must have patience with them, and what cannot be got out of them this year, they must be compelled to pay the next; this, he says, is why he has observed the greatest moderation and kindness towards them, and not set on them with fire and sword. So far as we have got any insight into the character of these races, such kindness seems little likely to be estimated by them; only a stern and strict rule that inspires fear (but not such as the Turks practise, which inspires more vengeance than terror,) will keep them in order, and in time, perchance, overcome their opposition to all reform. To once accustom these unruly tribes to settled dwellings and regular labour will be a formidable task, and of all the Turks we have met with in Bellad-Sudan, not one seems in the least qualified to effect it. Besides, the smallest change in the rule in Egypt might rend altogether from Turkish dominion the countries of Taka, Baraka, Atisch, Kataref, &c., as then the troops necessary to hold them, would be nowhere to be procured.

Some days after our trip a violent attack of fever overcame us both, and for some time deprived us of all power of writing or thinking, and also caused us to lose our reckoning of time; so that for the future no more journalising or exact dates can be attempted.

At length the confusion of the camp has been in some degree put an end to; between the seribas and the small huts of the soldiery a free space is now left of some fifty paces broad, the various bodies of cavalry and infantry are separated, and each have certain places allotted to them. Still in the various divisions there is yet much confusion, every one setting down his hut where he pleases, and never heeding in the slightest how it blocks up or impedes the way. The Pascha is perfectly ennuied, seeks to make time pass by, exercising himself in the sports of the jerreed, with his Schaigies, who perform this oriental tournay in all its dangerous irregularities, in the most masterly manner, as if they were real centaurs—or he makes the Dinka practise before his tent the staff-throwing at each other, which causes many bloody mouths and severe contusions for the doctors to attend to. He also labours hard in his own person, at that most important business, the tavela reale, of which he never wearies, and in which in turn Topschi Baschi, Abd el Kader, and Abdin Aga aid and assist him, so that a lively rattling of the dice is ever kept up, the sound of which is plainly audible to all who pass his tent. At first, when thus engaged, Topschi Baschi was so fortunate as to be allowed to sit, but now he must stand the whole time, so that a proper respect may be maintained between him and his master. As another relief to his overlaboured mind, the great man has caused Mohammed Ehle to procure him an Abyssinian damsel, whom he has quartered in a hut with a high enclosure round it, and for whose amusement he often of an evening orders the heart-delighting band of the 8th regiment to perform; this never fails to call up an accompaniment from every ass in the camp, and it is yet an undecided point whether the band or the asses have the best of it. But these long-eared gentry do not disdain to get up a concert of their own, as hardly a night passes that we are not repeatedly awoke from our sleep by the sweet voices of some 5000 or 6000 asses. Let one only commence, all chime in; the splendid deep notes of the older males mix with the shrill treble of the young females, and then the more stately camels fail not with vigorous roarings or growlings, to join their voices in good time and tune, to the harmonious concert.

We should have often been much pleased, when thus agreeably aroused from rest, to have sought some consolation in a good supper, had not our cook Achmet, a long, lanky native, too often left us unprovided with the materials for one. Long had this man been our daily torment, from his ill-conditioned, obstinate, and contradictory spirit; and even the most vigorous appliance of the karbatsch failed in effecting his cure, as he submitted standing erect, stiff, and perfectly silent, never giving sign or note of pain, and treating our most cutting blows with stoical indifference, and when all was over asking, “Schenu di?” (What’s this for?) He even now and then ventured to set us to rights, and ever was at open war with all our other servants. The man was born with a mania for discord; could he not get up a squabble with his fellows at home, he would sally out and cast about for some cause of quarrel amongst our peaceful neighbours. That he ever lived in peace with any one, or spoke a good word of another, we never heard. With us and our actions he, as a matter of course, constantly found fault. Out of revenge, he for fourteen days in succession gave the other servants no butchers’ meat; and often when we had a sheep killed, he purposely kept the meat till it was putrid, so that they might not be able to eat it. He also carried off our and the servants’ things, and hid them, merely to be able to turn with his slanderous words suspicions of theft on some other one. The only good about him was his talent for cooking, as he could, indeed, produce a good dinner out of almost nothing; but this he never would exercise unless we stood over him and compelled him, or when he desired to appear exceedingly active in our eyes, for some purpose of his own. From a fellow of such character we had every thing to fear; and when at last we discovered him to be a thief, and learnt from his own confession that he had often, ere now, stolen money, clothes, sugar, coffee, rice, various bottles of wine and rum, and sold them, our patience and forbearance towards him were at an end, and, ere half an hour was over his head, he found himself enrolled by the Bimbaschi Hassan Effendi, as soldier in the 1st regiment. We had at first pardoned him, merely dismissing him our service; although the persons to whom he had sold the stolen goods had come forward to give evidence against him, and had proved him beyond doubt to be the thief: but, on the day we made him a soldier, I was lying, much worn out, on my angareb, the fever having just left me, when I heard in the back part of our hut a case of provisions being broken open. I looked round, and there was Achmet, who had taken out a loaf of sugar, and was about to carry it off by the back door. I cried out, “Rugh fenn?” (Where with that?) He put down the sugar, and with a snarling “Aus è?” (What’s wanted?) advanced up to me, as if, I being all alone, he would have throttled me; but, at the instant, I seized one of my pistols, which hung near me, and pointed it at his head; on which he remained as if rooted to the ground, his eyes glaring on me like a tiger’s. As if it had been arranged, and perchance fortunately for me, my brother at that moment entered the hut by the back door, and Topschi Baschi by the front, at the same instant; and now I had to spring up to prevent the wild Kurd, who at once comprehended how matters stood, from splitting Achmet’s head on the spot. Although our friend Achmet came from the land of Djaal, the inhabitants of which, as well as of Barabra, are not compelled to serve as soldiers, their countries being much depopulated, still an exception was made in his favour. He was thus rendered harmless to others, as now the Nabut would take care of his doings; and the example we made of him had the best effect on our other servants.

The noble art of cooking is as little known in Bellad-Sudan as in Arabia or Turkey. Cleanliness, there, is even less attended to than it is generally among the Arabs and Negroes, and the cook is ever distinguished by being dirtier and more filthy in his dress than others. Even in Europe, it is said, if a man would enjoy his dinner, he must not see it cooked; but let one here only cast a glance into the filthy hole they call a kitchen (matbach), see the dabblings of the cook with filthy hands, an equally dirty pipe ever in his mouth, and how, without knife, fork, or spoon, he tastes every dish with his fingers, and with these arranges each plât on its dish, and he must indeed be a man of strong stomach, and stronger appetite, who can eat at all. Arab cookery is certainly very simple, as it is composed of boiled beans, and flesh, either boiled (lachame masluk, or mistaui) or roasted (kabab). This last consists of small pieces of meat stuck on wooden skewers, and roasted over the embers, and if it be desired to make it somewhat better than common, pieces of flesh, fat, and liver are placed on the skewers alternately. The Turks of rank have generally their food prepared for them by the female slaves of their harem, but, even then, cleanliness is no matter of boasting, and none of the Turkish ladies know anything of cookery, and their laziness prevents their acquiring any knowledge of it. Soup is never seen at Turkish tables, as it would be impossible to eat it with the shallow spoons they use, generally made of wood or horn. All the meat to be used for the dinner is boiled or sodden together in one great pot; from this mass afterwards the various plâts are prepared, almost all of which have a similar taste, having been all at first subjected to the same treatment. In some the meat is cut down smaller than in others, in some smothered by a vile sauce of butter or melted fat; some slightly roasted, and otherwise disguised; but in this way the cook prepares a number of dishes, as quantity, not quality, is his object, and constitutes the goodness of the dinner; but in none of them, is there either nourishment or flavour,—all are sodden and tasteless, from want of salt, pepper, spice, &c. The vegetables are ever villanously cooked, and floating in grease, or the water the meat has been boiled in. The sweets, of which all Easterns are especially fond, are better and more varied; but even these are very similar in taste, and cannot for a moment compare with an European dessert.

All food is served, not on dishes, but on plates, many often not larger than a saucer, and all are at one time crowded and heaped on a sennié, i.e. a large copper flat dish, with a low edge, which is placed on a stool a foot or twenty inches high, or an equally low table. The honourable company sit round this, on carpets spread on the floor, and each at once plunges his hand into any or every dish that pleases him, and gropes about till he gets hold of the best bits, pulls them out, and swallows them. Very often a bite is only taken from the piece thus seized on, and the rest returned to the dish; but, in spite of the cleanly treatment it has undergone, it is again soon seized hold of by another, and, perchance, again similarly handled, till all is finally bolted. The Turks eat incredibly rapidly, as they bolt every thing, and keep cramming into the mouth more ere the former mouthful has been swallowed; while a smacking of lips, and licking of sauce-dripping fingers succeed, and proclaim their pleasure in the meal. Bread is generally to be found on the table, but neither salt, oil, vinegar, or pepper; although when they dine with Europeans they show no dislike to highly seasoned dishes, or strong drinks. Although their dishes are numerous, they contain but little, and that little by no means of a quality suited to a German stomach, and this, too, would require to satisfy its cravings as much as four Turkish; but, after all other plâts, comes the never failing pillau, and he who has not already got his fill had better now lose no time in idling up between his two first fingers and thumb some balls of its mass, and cramming them down his throat; as the pillau is an invariable sign that the feast is ended. If there are many courses, or more dishes than the table will hold at one time, the entertainer is ever busied making signs to the attendants which are to be removed; and not seldom the guest finds that the very dish he was about to help himself from is carried off from under his very nose. The Pascha used often to amuse himself by playing tricks on his guests, by ordering off with the utmost rapidity those dishes he found their longing eyes fixed on, ere their outstretched hands could convey any portion of them into their watering mouths. Water, in abundance, is never wanting to wash down the repast, as many slaves stand by, in readiness to pour it out, as well as to keep off the flies. At first, in spite of the pillau, we never were quick enough to get sufficient to eat, not having been brought up to bolt our food; and that the Turks are so quickly satisfied, and by so little, is wholly owing to this bolting of their food, is undeniable: and this, also, produces the repeated eructations they so loudly and joyfully give vent to, as proving their high health and vigour. A newly arrived European is almost certain to rise from table unsatisfied, on dining with a party of Turks; for this dabbling of hands in the dishes, these handlings and tastings of the meat without taking it wholly away, must be disgusting to him; and, even now, when we have become pretty well used to it, we cannot wholly get over our dislike and loathing to the whole eating business; yet all the other Franks here have adopted it, looking upon it as a most comfortable method of feeding.

The contributions come in very sparingly, and are so small, that they more resemble presents than tribute. Of cows only 300 have been delivered, while Churschid Pascha, and with much less ado about it, got 3,000, and also managed in his two campaigns to pick up some 950 purses. When the wealth of these people in herds and flocks is considered, it is no small piece of daring in them to fancy they can make the Pascha credit that these 300 animals are anything like a tenth; and he is furious at the return thus made him for his mildness and forbearance, has sharply rebuked all the Sheiks about it, and has summoned Mohammed Din, Sheik Mussa, and the two Sheiks of Mitkenab to appear before him. All have appeared, though their people, fearing evil, would have prevented their coming in; but they felt secure, depending on the Amàhn already granted by the Pascha to them. But he, like all Turks, faithless in word and deed, had instantly all four made prisoners and laid in irons; chains are placed on their necks and feet, besides their being chained to each other. When we first beheld in camp, with the white handkerchief (mandilla) round his neck, as sign of submission and pardon, the great Sheik Mohammed Din, we more than suspected that old fox would soon be trapped, have, as hostage for his tribe, to travel to Chartum, and most certainly not die in his own land, like the other chiefs of the island. He may, indeed, then have in his heart laughed at his investment in a robe of purple and red shawl, and fancied he had done well in coming in; but, in spite of all his cunning, he has fallen into the snare, and his fate is fixed. Could not the old freebooter have been once again as wise as to confide his fortunes to his forests and arms, instead of having, as now, advanced with steady step to certain ruin? For most surely for long, if not altogether, would the impenetrable and extensive forests have afforded him safe shelter, and there might, indeed, his javelins have dealt death and destruction on our army; but perchance his policy was to hold the Turks here, by empty promises and false hopes, till the rainy season, and then to have seen them, in this inhospitable and totally over-flooded land, perish, man and beast, from sickness and starvation, aided, if needed, by his tribe’s arms. But the Pascha has forestalled his plans.

The day he was put in chains the evening gun was loaded with grape shot, and fired into the forest of the Haddenda land, probably to alarm any Arabs concealed in it, as the thunder of the great guns ever strike terror into the souls of these Arabs and blacks, even of such of them as should be well used to the noise; for we often have seen these, when by any chance near the cannon when fired, start back some six or seven paces, pale and trembling at the report. When the Turks attacked a large, populous, and fortified hill near Faszogl, the blacks sent out spies to learn how strong were their foes, and how they were armed; these spies came back laughing, with the report that there was no great body of troops, and such as there were had no other arms than polished sticks over their shoulders, but neither lances, swords, nor shields. Ere long, however, the ignorant unfortunates discovered the fearful efficacy of these polished sticks, though they could not for a moment comprehend how such small pieces of lead could so speedily wound, nay, slay outright; so the general opinion pronounced that an Afritt scheitàn (devil or evil spirit) lived in the muskets, and under this idea a black, who had laid hold of a soldier’s musket, instantly placed his hand on the muzzle to keep the scheitàn in; the soldier drew the trigger, and the leaden devil shattered the hand and breast of the poor negro. Still they hold their own lances as much the most deadly, and far superior to the invisible balls; hence a negro, after a skirmish, having got possession of some six or seven muskets of the slain soldiers, bore them joyfully home, to convert the barrels into lance heads, in the midst of a circle of admiring countrymen. Some of the former, however, chanced to contain the charge, and becoming red hot in the fire, burst, and sent wounds and death among the astonished lookers-on.

The mere cocking of the piece, and, far more surely, the report, will send most Arabs flying, though no damage has been done, as we have often beheld in the tribes of Taka; but the inhabitants of Hedjas have taken a wiser part, having managed to provide themselves with muskets, and though very slow they are sure shots; hid behind their rocks and walls, they are pretty sure, with their far carrying flint-guns, to hit their man; and in most skirmishes with them the fallen soldiers are found to have been hit on the foreheads, as the red tarbush affords them an excellent mark to aim at.

These Arabs have been known from oldest times as a brave and freedom-loving tribe, and even withstood the conquering arms of Rome, preserving their liberty. The mountains of their country (Hedjas) rise some short day’s journey from the Red Sea, steep and high, so that almost two days’ laborious travel is required to reach the plateau on which they dwell. The path up is steep and rocky, and gives even a good climber enough to do to ascend; and yet these Arabs have trained their horses, and even their camels, to ascend it with heavy loads. If these latter come to a steeper or more dangerous place, they kneel down and crawl along on knees and belly. On the shore are coral reefs. The hills themselves are composed of granite, naked and rugged, to the sea; but no sooner is the plateau or inhabited land reached, than one beholds the most luxuriant verdure, splendid though wild cypresses, oranges, peach, apricot, plum, and pear trees, and, above all, the most flourishing vines and date-palm trees. Hill streams pour their crystal waters from rock to rock, while from their banks rise the balmy perfumes of herbs of all kinds, balm, fennel, &c. &c. The fields, however, are poorly cultivated, as the constant feuds of the various families or clans among each other prevent any careful culture of the soil. Only during a short armistice for sowing and harvesting, do they live at peace and work together, nay, even visit one another; for then, by ancient and inviolable custom, all feuds are at rest; but hardly is the last seed buried in the earth, or the last ear gathered off it, when the old feuds again commence and continue as bitter as ever. Blood-vengeance, which reigns there in full force, is usually the origin of these feuds, and ere long the whole clans on both sides are involved in the quarrel. From the ever-enduring feuds one sees none but armed men in this country, and their houses are converted into small fortalices, in which they can hold out and defend themselves; these are built of stone, in a tower-like form, but with only one very low entrance, through which men can only pass by stooping much; and the upper story of the house is used to contain the horses, camels, cows, &c., all of which have been used from birth to creep in on their bellies through such low doorways, and the inside thus gained have again to mount up a narrow, small stone staircase, at which they are all most expert, difficult though the task may be. Instead of windows these houses have small arrow-slits, and when the inmates have (if necessary) built up their doorway from the inside with stones and stakes, the fortress is in readiness for a siege, as care is ever taken to hold it provided with stores of food for man and beast.

Hospitality is ever and at all times a sacred duty with these Arabs, even towards an enemy; and they have, too, held fast to all their old virtues and good customs, which is far more than can be said of the tribes of the sea coasts and plains; but this may be easily accounted for, from the latter having been more thrown in the way of holding intercourse with foreign nations, and from their trading much more with such. They are particularly distinguished from the mountain races, who will have nothing to do with them, by their darker skin, but they wear a similar dress, and all acknowledge themselves to be of the sect of the Wachabites (Wahabi), thus distinct from the Mussulmen as also by building no mosques, smoking no tobacco, nor adorning their dress with silk or gold, &c.; as they plundered the chaaba in Mecca, and robbed the richly endowed groves of Mahomet and his daughter Fatima in Medina, so also did they take from all caravans without exception, their silver, gold, and valuables, and when they no longer dared venture on such robberies, they invented another means of levying toll on all pilgrims, by compelling them to let fall on the ground their money and other valuables, so that they might afterwards take it to themselves as windfalls; but this procedure is also now forbidden them.

Against these Wachabites, whose warlike qualities were well known, Mehemet Ali declared a religious war, which was highly approved of by the Porte. The latter hoped to see that by this the ever-increasing powers of the Pascha, would be much weakened (a favourite plan of the Porte as regards such powerful vassals); but the old wily Pascha gladly used this approval of the sultan to increase his army greatly, and organise it in European style and to European tactics. Nor did he fail to inflame the Moslem with zeal for the holy war, and so win again to his side those bigots who had been much estranged from him by his many innovations and new institutions, and lead them to publicly proclaim that it was the duty of every Mussulman to advance to the aid and protection of the country of the Holy Prophet, especially to that of Mecca and Medina, the former of which, along with the great chaaba, contains within its walls also the Well and Baths of Purification. Never, for a moment either, did his calculating mind lose sight of the ports of the Red Sea and their trade with India (Hind), the influence of the large caravans, which brought from all parts of the world where Islam existed crowds of pilgrims to the holy shrines and purifying springs, or the quantity of gold these pilgrims or future Hadji expended (a highly honourable title among both Greeks and Turks, and gained by such pilgrimages), and by their means opening up an intercourse with the land of Yemen, and its rich and important trading city of Mocca, where coffee already yields such great gains. It may here be remarked, in passing, that the richer inhabitants of Yemen, as also those of Hedjas, do not use the beans of the coffee in preparing that liquid, but the inner shell or skin that contains these, which they hold to be much higher and better flavoured; they also mix in their coffee cloves, cinnamon, aromatic spices and gums, so that this beverage with them is very similar to a perfumed cordial. Nor do they drink it in such small portions as are usual in Egypt and Turkey, but the attending slave holds ready a large vessel, from which he fills the cups as often as they are emptied, while his masters sit and smoke their well-loved long dschihschi[13] pipes, with long tubes passed through water, that the smoke may come cold to the mouth, and which, when a few inveterate smokers meet together, keep up a boiling and bubbling noise, not unlike a distant corps of drummers in full performance.

The battle with the races of Arabia now began, but never had any of Mehemet Ali’s former wars devoured so many bleeding victims as this with the races of Hedjas and Yemen. Their lands proved a bottomless gulph that nothing could satisfy; and only by the greatest exertions, did he in the end manage to overrun, and in a measure conquer, these tribes. For although, after long-continued marches of twenty-four or twenty-six hours, without the smallest rest, among rocky hills, burning plains, without water, every where harassed by Arabs and tormented by fearful heat, the Egyptian army held out stoutly, and behaved bravely, still the mountain district of land called Assir, between Hedjas and Yemen, proved a refuge not to be forced, and one he never could win, as the élite of the population, composed of a body of not more than five hundred warriors, holding themselves distinct from the others, have, by their wild courage and fiery love of fatherland, ever been victorious, and triumphantly beaten off all attacks.[14]

But to the conscienceless Pascha, this destructive and murderous war was most welcome, as it afforded the best and surest vent for getting rid of those restless fellows who stood in the way of his plans. To it were sent all whose deaths were desired; to it were insubordinate regiments despatched, and to it were thousands on thousands of Arnauts hurried off. By these most assuredly had Mehemet Ali been raised to power. By their love of blood he had swept his foes from his path and made firm his rule, but now no longer did the master want his tools; their claims and demands were too great, their excesses and cruelties were the dread of the land, and so the cunning Pascha gladly availed himself of this excellent opportunity of sending them to destruction, causing them to be most anxious to go, by dazzling their eyes with visions of rich booty and unrestrained plunder and bloodshed. Nay! so far did old Ali carry his shameless inhumanity, as to give secret orders to his trusted officers to “expend” the Arnauts in every way; and so, during the march to Arabia, many of these latter were ordered on distant expeditions into the deserts, with certain promise that camels should be sent after them with food and water: but no supplies were ever sent, and those unfortunate men were allowed to perish miserably in the wastes from thirst and starvation. If Mehemet Ali sought a defence for such barbarity, one well suited to him might be found in this, that his own safety and the maintenance of his power demanded the extirpation of these Arnauts; and certainly from his refusal to admit their claims, and the evil way in which he rewarded their former services, as well as their ever being at the call of him who paid best, they were, undoubtedly, most ready and able to attach themselves to any other aspirant to power, and well fitted to ably assist in overturning the wily old Pascha, already most hateful from his many innovations, and increasing rapacity,—a ruin all the easier effected, as there was always in the country a strong party hostile to him, and this was supported both by the Porte and by the remains of the Mamalukes, who still existed, though in secret. These Arnauts had also, ere now, threatened his life in Cairo, on his refusing to yield to their violent demands.

On this occasion, assembling in great bodies, they marched through the city with shouts and riotings, threatening to lay it all in ashes, committing every kind of crime, and at last surrounded the citadel of Jussuff or Sal-ed-din, the beautiful acropolis of Cairo, and began formally to besiege it, purposing to capture it, and with it the Pascha, and murder him. But the old fox probably foreseeing these plans, or having had some hint of the intended mutiny, had, during the preceding night, stolen out of the citadel to the palace of his son-in-law on the Esbekieh, and at once seeing that his power was endangered, failed not to avert the evil. His confidential messengers were immediately with the most influential leaders of the revolters, and weighty purses changed hands and altered murderous intentions; inactivity and quarrels filled the camp, and suddenly a proposal was heard, probably started by the cunning Pascha’s emissaries, that it would be better fun to plunder the city, than remain idle before the fortress. This idea, so well adapted to the character of these troops, was hardly hinted at, when a small body being left to watch the citadel, all set off and broke into the richest bazaars of the city, there robbed, spoiled, and plundered, cutting down and murdering all who offered the smallest hindrance to their savage fury and bloody greed. There, too, was slain, the youngest and fairest daughter of the Prussian consul, Bokhti, who was shot by an Albanian whose path she unfortunately crossed. The richest spoils were sold for a song, and the coin thus got was lavished in excesses of all kinds, and in these the drunken Arnauts forgot all about siege or Pascha. But by the latter every use was made of the time gained: in all haste the nearest quartered regiments of the line were sent for, and, on arriving, distributed partly in the citadel, partly posted at the most important points and commanding situations of the city; so the Arnauts, on awaking from their debauch, found themselves outwitted, and on Mehemet Ali promising them speedy payment of their arrears, they marched quietly back to their former quarters. The pay, wondrous to say, they did receive, but as surely were all, under one or other excuse, despatched into countries from which for them there was no return. The merchants ruined by the Pascha’s stratagem received some millions of piastres as indemnification, but, as may be easily supposed, this sum nothing like covered their losses.

The conduct of the Arnauts from Rumelia, Albania, and elsewhere, during their time of power, is almost incredible. Not one night passed in Cairo, that a number of men were not murdered by them in the most public streets and places. Ever drunk, they wandered about the town, and more than one Frank was shot down merely because he was a Frank: but not alone did Franks suffer; as they spared neither country, sex, or age; every inhabitant trembled at their approach, and at the sight of their yatachans[15], with which they most dexterously sliced off men’s heads, as well as before the ever-loaded pistols stuck in their girdles, and never laid aside day or night, asleep or waking. They spread fear and horror around them on all sides, and were, in one word, the pest of Egypt. Never did I gaze on countenances that more strongly testified to savage passions, and eager love of blood, than those of these Arnauts; such vile and savage faces never did I see, not even among the infuriated and wild Greeks, during their war of freedom, when, in the pomegranate groves of Ti Myli (Lerna, near Argos), they roasted alive their Turkish captives. Their characters are in true keeping with their debauched and brutally savage features. Their dress and equipments perfect the horrors of their appearance; they wear dirty ragged tarbushes dragged down low over the eyes, or carelessly hanging on one side of the head, the bull-like neck and brown breast ever bared, a jacket, always at first of a yellow colour, but now from age, holes, and dirt, colourless, and under it a gay vest of many hues; the once white Albanian or Grecian shirt[16] with large wide sleeves, but now black or brown, as washing it never knew. This shirt falls like a tunic over their short breeches; their leggings generally fastened with innumerable buttons, are of a different colour from the jacket, usually bright red or green, and the naked foot is thrust into old slippers. Over an old torn scarf or shawl is worn a leathern girdle, in which are carried their ornaments, all valuables, and deadly weapons of every kind; at the back hang two small leathern pouches for powder and ball, along with a small flask holding oil for their arms; during war they carry a long musket, and with it, in spite of its short and awkward stock, they take sure and deadly aim. When I last met with them, they had formed a camp near Cairo, and my brother, as medicine major of the chief hospital, Kasr-el-ain, received orders to visit their sick. Arm in arm we held our way boldly down the centre of the street, till near the gates we fell in with two bodies of them, singing, shouting, and half drunk, who seemed inclined to block up the way. My brother cried out “dropp” (out of that); what charm lay in the word I know not, but the line opened and we passed through uninsulted, though in European garb. Ere long we met the second body, and passed them in like way, but in doing so, I greeted one or two of them in Greek, on which many of them rushed up to me, and hailing me as a brother and compatriot, embraced me, insisting on escorting us into the camp. These Arnauts are merely irregular troops, acting as tiralleurs, and generally as it pleases themselves; their officers are always fellow-countrymen. Brave and death defying they are, but only on those occasions when they look for spoil; indifferent and even cowardly where honour alone is the prize, at it they laugh, as at the sufferings of their prisoners, whom they often murder with cruellest tortures. Better they know not; living in their own land without almost any agriculture, industry, or trade, they support themselves by war, plunder, and murder, till at length, forced by starvation to quit it, they seek richer and more favoured lands, in which to pursue their horrid trade. At the present day few Arnauts are to be found in Egypt, the late arrivals having been rapidly forwarded to where they were soon expended. During our residence at Cairo, there arrived in the Arnaut camp before the city, a regiment of them from Syria; as usual these were to be seen drunk, quarrelling, and committing all kinds of excesses in the city and its environs. Thus, one of them, without the least scruple, murdered a poor girl, who from her yellow slippers was easily known as a Turkish female, because she would not yield to his brutal wishes.

Our favourite Bellad-Sudan has also consumed a number of Arnauts, who had been attracted thither by the tempting promises of Ismail Pascha, and of the monster Mohammed Bey Defterdar[17], and son-in-law of Mehemet Ali. They were the principal agents in the horrible and unequalled cruelties of the Defterdar, and this tiger had even three or four hundred of these fellows as his body guard, and paid out of his own pocket. These were the élite of and pattern for the rest, and their master was the most inhuman miscreant of all. Even yet there may be found here and there in Bellad-Sudan, some one or two of these executioners, but old, worn out, and, by sufferings of many kinds, humbled and tamed down. Sulky and disinclined to talk, they are only to be stirred up by awakening their recollections of past times; by these can their quenched fire be again momentarily revived; at such tales again do their eyes gleam, and sparkle as the old lust for blood is aroused, and the trembling hand grasps the well-blooded weapon. The Defterdar is still their idol, and many other soldiers show their admiration of him; Mograbin and Schaigie have over and over again assured us that his like is no where now to be found. In truth, these are men who know nothing of regular work or orderly occupation, who lead a wild unrestrained life, and support themselves by robbery and murder. In these respects the Defterdar was the very man to satisfy them; he kept them in constant employment, knew well how to reward them, for he was liberal and generous to his own men as he was harsh and cruel to a conquering or conquered foe. No sooner did he sit down before a town, than forth went the order to burn, murder, and plunder,—for the dread his name inspired, and his successes in his many and bold enterprises, checked all attempts at resistance. The plunder he shared with his soldiers, as well as their cruelties and excesses.