A TRUE AND EXACT HISTORY

OF THE ILAND OF BARBADOES.

HAVING been Censur’d by some (whose Judgements I cannot controll, and therefore am glad to allow) for my weakenesse and Indiscretion, that having never made proofe of the Sea’s operation, and the severall faces that watry Element puts on, and the changes and chances that happen there, from Smooth to Rough, from Rough to Raging Seas, and High going Billowes, (which are killing to some Constitutions,) should in the last Scene of my life, undertake to run so long a Risco as from England to the Barbadoes; And truly I should without their help conclude my selfe guilty of that Censure, had I not the refuge of an old proverb to fly to, which is, (Need makes the old wife trot:) for having lost (by a Barbarous Riot) all that I had gotten by the painfull travells and cares of my youth; by which meanes I was stript and rifled of all I had, left destitute of a subsistance, and brought to such an Exigent, as I must famish or fly; and looking about for friends, who are the best supporters in so staggering a condition, found none, or very few, whom griefs and afflictions had not deprest, or worne out, Banishment absented, or Death devour’d; so that in stead of these neere and Native comforters, I found my selfe a stranger in my owne Country, and therefore resolv’d to lay hold on the first opportunity that might convoy me to any other part of the World, how far distant soever, rather then abide here. I continued not many weekes in this expectation, when a friend, as willing to shift his ground as I, gave me an Overture which I accepted, and so upon the sixteenth day of June 1647. we embark’d in the Downes, on the good Ship called the Achilles; a vessell of 350 tunnes the Mr. Thomas Crowder of London; and no sooner were we all aboard, but we presently weighed Anchor, and put to Sea; in so cold weather as at that time of the yeere, I have not felt the like; and continued so till wee came to Falmouth Harbour: where wee put in, and rested for a night, but in our passage thither, were very uncertaine upon what Coast wee were, by reason of the unsteadinesse of the windes, and cloudinesse of the weather; so that I perceived more troubles and doubts in the Seamen in that short passage, than in all the voyage after. But, the weather clearing up, the Master and Mates drew out severall plots and Landscapes: which they had formerly taken upon the Coast of France and England, (which are of great use in the narrow Seas,) by which they were well assured where they were; for there they seldome use Loggline, or Backstaffe, but attend onely the Tides Compasse, and Card; nor is there any use of other directors in so narrow a roome. We were (as I remember) about 10. dayes sayling to Falmouth, and had with us a small ship of about 180. tunnes, called the Nonesuch; of which Captaine Middleton was owner, a very good seaman, and a Planter in Barbados: but himselfe then remaining in London.

The next day we put to Sea, and continued our course to the Southwest, (with somewhat a Scant wind,) partly to avoid the high going Billowes of the Bay of Biskey: but chiefely to stand aloofe from Pirats and Pickaronoes: which are very frequent upon the Coasts of Spaine, and Barbarie; and as we past along, I perceiv’d a difference in the way of our Ships: for in slack windes, our consort the Nonesuch would runne us out of sight in foure or five houres sayle; but in strong and stiffe windes, wee did the like with her. So that I guest the larger the sayles, the swifter the waye; provided, they were alike built in the modell of their keeles, but I leave that to be resolved by the Seamen, or that Admirable Architect of Moving-Horses, Mr. Pett.

About the Latitude of 45. degrees, wee met with a Ship comming from Guinny, but bound for London; the Captains name was Blague, a very civill Gentleman who halde us, came aboard us, and invited divers Gentlemen that were there aboard his ship: which was a Friggot of about 400. tunnes, her loading Gold and Elephants teeth; the Man was exceeding civill to us, and gave to every Gentleman of our Company, a present of such rarities as he brought from Guinny, and Binny. We stayed together almost a whole day, the weather being very calme, and almost no wind at all; in the evening, a fresh breese began to blow, which serv’d us both in our severall wayes, and so saluting each other with our ordinance wee took leave.

About this time, our Consort the None-such parted with us, she directly for the Carribby Ilands, we for St. Jago, one of the Ilands of Cape Verd; where wee were to trade for Negros, Horses, and Cattell; which we were to sell at the Barbados. So, keeping our course about 80. Leagues from the Coast of Spaine and Barbarie, the first land wee discovered, was the Ile of Porto Santo; which lyeth in 33. degrees to the Noreward; which wee left of our Larboard side: When presently after, we had sight of the Maderas, which we sayld close by, and had a full view of the place; so Rocky, and Mountainous, and the ground so miserably burnt with the Sun, as we could perceive no part of it either Hill or Valley, that had the least appearance of green, nor any tree bigger then a small Hathorne and very few of those. Between this and three inconsiderable Ilands called the Deserts, which appeared to us like the tops of large buildings; no unevennesse or risings and fallings, but levell as the toppe of a large Church or Barne; but burnt worse then the other, so that instead of the fresh and lively greenes, other Countreys put on at this time of the yeare: these were apparell’d with Russets, or at best Phyliamorts. But it fell out that this yeere the summer was there hotter then usually, and the Sea men that were with us, gave us to understand, that they never had seen it so burnt as now, and that the Leeward part of it was, at other times, exceeding fruitfull and pleasant, abounding with all sorts of excellent fruits, Corne, Wine, Oyle, and the best Sugars; with Horses, Cattell, Sheep, Goates, Hogges, Poultrey; of all sorts, and the best sorts of Sea fish. These Ilands lye neere 33. degrees to the Noreward.

Having past between these (leaving the Maderas on of our Starboard side) wee found a constant trade-wind to carry us to the Southward, When the next Iland that came in our view, was Bona Vista; but at such a distance, as we could hardly discerne colours, but the generall Landscape of the hills seemed to us very beautifull, gently rising and falling, without Rockes or high precipices.

This Iland is famous, for excellent Salt, and for Horses, which in one property, excell all that ever I have seene; their hooves being to that degree of hardnesse, and toughnesse, that we ride them at the Barbados, downe sharp and steepie Rocks, without shooes; and no Goates goe surer upon the sides of Rockes and Hills then they; and many of them very strong and clean limb’d.

This Iland, wee left ten Leagues, or thereabouts on our Larboard side, and next to it, the Ile of May; famous for store of excellent Salt.

The last of those Ilands was Palma; a land so high, as after wee first discovered it; which was in the morning; wee thought to have reacht it that night, but found our selves farre short of it, next morning, though wee had a full gaile all that night: so much is the eye deceived in Land which lyes high. This Iland is about 28 degrees to the Noreward, and from it to the Iles of Cape Verd about 13 degrees a long way to bee silent, for there is no land between and therefore I purpose to entertaine you with some Sea delights; for there is no place so void and empty, where some lawfull pleasure is not to bee had, for a man that hath a free heart, and a good Conscience. But these Sea-pleasures are so mixt with Cruelties, as the trouble of the one, abates much the delight of the other, for here wee see the great ones, eate up the little ones, as they doe at Land, and with as little remorse; yet laying that consideration aside the Chase affords some pleasure to the eyes: for some kinds of fishes shew themselves above water, for a long while together. I have seen 20 Porpisces very large of that kinde, Crosse the Prow of our Ship, one behind another in so steady and constant a course, in chase of some other fishes; as I have seen a kennell of large Hounds, in Windsor Forrest, in the chase of a Stag; one following another directly in a track; and the onely difference I finde is, these doe not spend their mouthes, but what they want in that is supplyed by the goodnesse of their noses; for they never are at a fault, but goe constantly on. The Dolphins likewise pursue the flying Fish, forcing them to leave their knowne watry Elements, and flye to an unknowne one, where they meet with as mercilesse enemies; for there are birds that attend the rising of those fishes; and if they bee within distance, seldome fayle to make them their owne. These birds, and no other but of their kinde, love to straggle so far from land; so that it may be doubted, whether the sea may not bee counted their naturall home; for wee see them 500 leagues from any land, at Sun setting; and so it is not possible they should recover land that night; and on the waves they cannot rest without great hazzard. I have seen them sometimes light, and sit upon the waves, but with such Caution: for feare of being taken in by a fish, as her rest is very unsafe; unlesse when the is covered by the nights dark wings. This Bird, is a kinde of sea Hawke, somewhat bigger then a Lanner, and of that colour; but of a far freer wing; and of a longer continuance; and when she is weary, she finds resting places, if the Seas be Calme; for then the Turtles lye and sleep upon the waves, for a long time together; and upon their backs they sit, and sleep securely; and there, mute, prune, and oyl their feathers; rouse, and doe all their Offices of nature, and have roome enough for all, for some of those Turtles are a yeard broad in the back: wee took one with our long Boate, as he lay sleeping on the water, whose body afforded all the Gentlemen, and Officers of the Ship, a very plentifull meal; and was the best meat wee tasted, all the time wee were at Sea. There are of these kinds of Fishes but two sorts, that continue in the mayne; the Loggerhead Turtle, and the Hawkes bill Turtle, of which sorts, the latter is the best, and of that kind ours was that wee took. There is a third kind, called the Green Turtle which are of a lesser Magnitude, but far excelling the other two, in wholesomnesse, and Rarenesse of taste; but of them hereafter for I have no mind to part so leightly, with the forenamed Birds of prey: For having been bred a Faulconer in my youth, I cannot but admire the admirable swiftnesse of wing these birds make. They mount sometimes upon the trayne, to so loftie a pitch: as, if a Faucon were there, Shee might be allowed a double Cancellere in her stooping to her game: they doe it at one entire downe come. Her ordinary flying for her own pleasure, and not for prey is commonly more free then the best Haggard Faulcon, that I have ever seen; but the continuance of it makes it the more admirable, At the times they grow hungry, they attend the Dolphins, who are their Spaniels; and where they perceive the water to move, they know they are in Chase, of the flying fish; and being neere them, they rise like Coveys of Partridges by 12 and 16 in a Covey, and flye as far as young Partridges, that are forkers, and in their flight these birds make them their quarry.

These frighted fishes, sometimes in the night have crost our ship, and being stopt by the shroudes, have falne downe; and with their bodies we have baited hookes, and taken their pursuers the Dolphins; which we have found very excellent meat, being drest by a good hand, with Wine, Spice, and sweet herbs, which we never wanted. So here we have excellent hauking, no feare of losing our hauke, by going out at Cheik, or to a village to Poult, and yet eate of the quarrie, and sometimes of the Spaniells, which is an advantage the best faulconers misse at Land. As for the hunting here, we only see the Chase, but suffer the hounds to flesh themselves upon the quarrie, or it may be, a royall fish, such a one as may fill a dish to furnish Neptunes table, & by that meanes we are cosen’d of our quarry. So that as I ever thought on Land, I find the same at Sea, Hawking to be the better sport. I had almost forgot, to tell what kind of fish this flying fish is, which is the cause of such excellent sport, both in himselfe and others, he is just like a Pilchard, but his fins larger, both in breadth & length, & as long as they are wett, so long he flyes; and for their mortall enemies the birds, they continue with us from 33. degrees til we come to 15. and then leave us.

At which time and place, another kinde undertakes us, not much bigger then a Castrill; and as near that colour as may bee, but of another manner of flying: for these flye close to the water, and turne about every wave; so that wee often lose sight of them, by interposing of the waves, and think somtimes that a wave has overwhelmed her. The pleasure she gives the eye, is by the giddinesse of her flying, and often seems to be lost: and yet (contrary to our expectation) appears againe. But I will trouble you no longer with the inhabitants of the Plyant Aire, but dive into the Deep, to try what pleasure that Element affords to give you delight.

There is a Fish called a Sharke, which as he is a common enemy to Saylers and all others that venture, in Calmes, to commit their naked bodies to the sea (for he often bites off Legs, sometimes Armes, and now and then swallowes the whole body, if the Fish bee great): So when the Saylers take them, they use them accordingly. Sometimes by putting out their eyes, and throwing them over bord; sometimes by mangling and cutting their bodies, finns, and tayles, making them a prey to others, who were mercilesse Tyrants themselves; And in this kind of justice they are very Accurate.

Many of these fishes we took; some by striking with harping Irons, some with Fishgigs, some with hookes; and amongst the rest, one very large, which followed the Ship foure houres, before wee went about to take him; and perceived before him, a little Fish which they call the Pilot Fish; This little guide of his, swims sometimes a yeard before him, sometimes more or lesse, at his pleasure; and in his greatest adversity often cleaves to him, and like a deare friend, stickes closest when hee needs him most: for when he is taken, this little fish, never fayles to fasten himselfe to his head, or some part neere that, and resolves to dye with him. The experience of this wee found not only in this great fish, but in all the rest wee had formerly taken, for wee never took the one without the other. And the Engine wee took this great Sharke with, was a large Hook, baited with a piece of Beef; which he received into his mouth, his belly being turned upwards, for his mouth being short of his snout a good deale, he could not take it conveniently, his back being upward, by reason his snout drove the line afore it, but as soon as wee perceived the baite to be swallowed, we gave a sudden pull, which fastned the hook so, as we were sure the weight of his body would not teare it out, Wee drew him up, and laid him in the Wast of the Ship, where none durst abide but the Seamen who dare doe any thing.

Wee had aboard divers mastive Dogges, and amongst them, one so large and fierce, as I have seldome seen any like him; this Dogge flew to him with the greatest Courage that might be, but could take no hold of him, by reason of his large roundnesse and sliminesse; but if by chance he got hold of one of his finnes, the Sharke would throw him from side to side of the Ship, as if he had been nothing; and doubtlesse if he had encountred him in his own Element, the Sea, he would have made quick work with him.

Divers of this kind wee took, but none so large; he was about 16 foot long, and 10 foot about the middle. Other fishes wee took, as the Bonito, the Spanish Maquerell, the Albucore, Dolphin, &c. which wee found excellent meate, but especially the Albacore, which is a fish of such a shape, as it pleased me much to look on. Those wee took were not much above a yard long, with forked tayles, the gristles very firme and strong, and the body neer that, no bigger then a mans wrist; but suddenly growing upward to such a greatnesse, as I have seldome seen any like him, and so strong withall, as a sayler a very strong man, holding one of them fast by the gill, when this fish mov’d but his tayle to get loose, gave such a spring, as he had like to have put his arme out of joynt. These kind of fishes, in a cleare Sunshine evening, delight themselves and us, by trying which of them can leap highest above water, so that ’tis a pretty pastime, to see fishes so large, and gloriously colour’d, shew themselves so far above their naturall Element, whose shapes and colours gave such variety. But this sport we saw not often.

I will trouble you no more, with mentioning the variety of shapes and colours of fishes, till I come to St. Jago; onely one, and that a very small one; for his body is not much bigger then a large Pomegranate, and yet his faculties are such, as may draw more eyes to look on him and more mindes to consider him, then the Vast Whale: for though it be true, that his large body, appearing above the surface of the water being in calmes a smooth leavell superficies, and suddenly appearing, is one of the strangest and most monstrous sights that can be in nature; (and the more admirable, when he is incountred by his two mortall enemies, the Sword and Theshal fishes. For to shake them off, he leapes more then his owne length, above water; and in his fall, beats the sea with such violence, as the froth and foame is seen a quarter of an houre after, White, as when ’tis beaten by a strong West wind against a Rock; and at other times, spouts out the Water in great quantities; the height of an ordinary Steeple.) Yet this great master-piece of Nature, is not in my opinion so full of wonder, nor doth raise the consideration to such a height: as this little fish the Carvill, who can when he pleases, enjoy himselfe with his neighbour fishes, under water; And when he putts on a resolution to trie his fortune in another Element, the Ayer, he riseth to the top of the sea, let the billow go never so high, and there without the help of a sayler, Raises up his maine Mast, spreads his sayles, which he makes of his own sinewes, fits his Rudder and Ballast, and begins his voyage; But to what Coast he is bound, or what trafique he intends, himselfe and He that made him onely can tell. Fishes there are none to prey on, nor flies, and therefore ’tis not for food he travailes; I have seen them 500 leagues from any land, if his voyage be to any Port, he must have a long time and much patience to get thither; if to sea, hee’s there already; in one thing he hath the advantage of any ship that ever sayled: for he can go neerer the wind by a poynt, then the most yare Friggot that ever was built. Which shewes how farre Nature can exceed Art. Another advantage he has, that in the greatest Tempest, he never feares drowning. Compasse, nor Card he needs not, for he is never out of his way; whether then his voyage be for pleasure or profit we are yet to seeke.

But before wee arive at our next Harbour, St Jago, one of the Iles of Cape Verd, and now revolted from the King of Spayne, to the Portugall; Let me tell you, one little observation I made of the Ships way; which in slacke windes, and darke nights, wee saw nothing under water, but darkenes; but in stiffe windes, and strong gayles, wee saw perfectly the keele of the Ship; and fishes playing underneath, as lighted by a torch, and yet the nights of equall darkenes. Which put me in mind of a poynt of Philosophy I had heard discourst of, among the Learned; That in the Ayer, Rough hard bodies, meeting with one another, by violent stroakes, Rarifie the Ayer, so as to make fire. So here, the ship being of a hard substance, and in a violent motion, meeting with the strong resistance of the waves: (who though they bee not hard, yet they are rough, by reason of their saltnes,) doe cause a light, though no fire, and I may guesse, that that light would bee fire, were it not quencht by the sea, in the instant it is made; which in his owne Element, hath the greater power and predominancie.

But before wee came to St Jago, wee were to have visited a small Iland called Soll; by the intreatie of a Portugall wee carried with us, whose name was Bernardo Mendes de Sousa; who pretended, to have a great part of the Iland (if not the whole) to bee his owne; but for that, it lay somewhat out of our waye, and wee could not recover it, by reason the winde was Crosse; and partly for that wee were informed by some of the Saylers, who told us it was uninhabited by any, but Goats, Dogs, and the like; and wee guest, hee would (out of a vaine glorie) shew us something that he Call’d his. But the Master, who well knew the Condition of the place, would not lose so much tyme to no purpose. Which gave some discontentment to the Portugall, which hee exprest in his Countenance, by a sullen dogged looke, till wee came to St Jago. But that was but a whetstone, to sharpen a worse humour hee was big with; for though our Merchants redeem’d him out of prison in London, intending him a Mayne director in the whole voyage; whose Credulous eares hee highly abused, by telling them, That the Padre Vagado (Chiefe Governour of St Jago) was his brother, and that by the power hee had with him, to lay all trade open, for Negroes, Horses, and Cattle, which were there Contrabanded goods; By which perswasion, they gave him the power and Command of the ship and goods. But hee intended nothing lesse then the performance of that trust, but instead of it, meant to make prey of both, and of our Liberties, and probably lives to boote, if wee had not bin verie wary of him.

The first thing wee perceiv’d in him, was a strange looke hee put on, when wee came nere the Iland; which caused us to suspect some great and bad designe hee was bent on, for being Iolly and very good Companie all the voyage, to change his Countenance when wee were nere the place where wee hop’d to enjoy our selves with happinesse and Contentment, was a presage of some evill intent to bee put in practice, which howerly wee expected; and were all at gaze what part of it was first to bee acted; which hee (more speedily then hee needed) discovered, and it was thus.

Our water, being a good part spent in our passage thither, and wee being to make new and large provisions for the remaynder of our Voyage, carrying horses and Cattle with us: which wee were to take in there; hee Commanded the Master by the power he had over him, to send a shoare all the emptie Caske hee had aboard; with intent to detayne them; and so make us comply, by little and little to his ends. But the Master absolutely denied the Landing our great Caske, but told him he would send our quarter Caskes, in our long boate, and so by making often returnes, to fill our Pipes & Buts. But finding himself at a losse in this designe, thought good to keepe us from any water at all; and so appointed our men, to dig in the valley under the Padres house, where he was well assured no Springs of water were to be found. But some of our men, who spoke good Spanish, by their enquiries heard, That there was a very good well on the other side of the hill, under the Castle, and were brought to the sight of it by some of the Country people; Which when he perceiv’d we had knowledge of, he was much out of Countenance, and used his best eloquence to make us beleeve he had never heard of that Well.

So finding that this practice would not serve his turne, he tryed another: and that was to command our Master, to carrie a shoare, that part of the Cargo soone that was consign’d for that place, which was Cloath, Bayes, Stuffes of severall kindes, Linen Cloath, Hats with broad brims, such as Spaniards use to weare, and were made in London purposely to put off there, and these goods being valued, when they were receiv’d at Land, there should be a returne made, in Horses, and Cattle. But as we had Cause to suspect him for the Cask, so wee had for the Cargo, and so return’d him this answer, that we would not land any of our goods, without receiving the like valew in Cattle; and so by parcells to receive the one, and deliver the other.

On which message, we sent the Purser of our ship, that spoke good Spanish; But Bernardo, being vext to the height that his Plot was discovered, kept him prisoner. We sent another to demand him which was like wise detayned, then we sent 3 or 4 more and some of the soldiers of the Castle gave fire upon them, Soe that wee resolv’d to weigh Anchor and put to Sea for a weeke or tenne dayes and returne in the night (the weather being darke and fitt for our purpose) and surprise the Padres house with 50 Musketeers which we could muster verie well of the Gentlemen and other passengers in the ship, and some of the Saylers, and take the Padre Vagado, and Bernardo Mendes de Sousa, and carrie them to the Barbados. But the Padre not knowing of this designe in Bernardo, sent to us a verie kind message inviting himselfe aboard our ship, receiving hostages from us, and soe upon treatie with him aboard, settled a trade, and got our prisoners releast; whereupon we were invited to his house or rather his Rocke, for it was most part of it form’d in a Rocke, with a steep and verie high precipice.

But I am mislead into this digression by this wicked Portugall, whose unlucky Countenance before we came to the Iland, gave me the occasion to say somewhat of him, and his miscariage in the Iland, before I came at it.

But when we came within sight of it, it appeared to us full of high & steep Rocks, (the highest of which were meere stone, without any soyle at all) and they of so great a height, as we seldome saw the tops, whilst we lay before it; being interposed by mists, and Clouds: which rise and darken the skie in the time of the Turnado. But the day we had the first sight of it, being very cleare; and we being at a competent distance, had a perfect view of it. But those of the second altitude, appear’d not so white, but had a grayish colour, as if covered with light and sandy earth. But the lowest of those, seem’d rather Hills, than Rockes; but yet so russet, as we were in doubt whether grasse did ever grow on them. But when we came within distance of discerning colour perfectly; wee expected the vallies, as they opened to us, would have afforded our eyes a richer prospect, with more variety of colours, but we found very little or no amendment, onely the trees of Coconuts, with some other that were large and beautiful, whose tops (giving amply proportionable shadowes to their roots) held their greennesse and were extreame beautifull. But the time of our stay there, being the Turnado, when the sunne (being in his returne from the Tropique of Cancer, to that of Capricorne, to visit and refresh the Southern world,) became Zenith to the inhabitants of that part of the world; which is about the beginning of August: At which time the raines fall in abundance, and is accompted winter, to those parts where the Zenith is, and we staying there 19 or 20 dayes, (the raine falling a good part of that time,) wee perceived the valleys to put on new liveries; so fresh, so full of various greens, intermixt with flowers of severall kinds, some growing on stalkes, some on trees, so full of varietie, of the most beautifull colours, as if nature had made choyce of that place to shew her Master piece. So that, having feasted our eyes with this delighted object, we desired to try whether their smel was as pleasant and odoriferous, as their beauty was admirable; and to satisfie our selves of this curiosity, would willingly have gone a shoare but wee were advised to stay a little, till we were better assured of our Portugall Bernardo. Which stay, gave us time to take a view of the Harbour or Bay, which they call the Pry, and is about a league over from land to land. And, as I guest, somewhat more; from the poynts of land, to the bottome; and, as we enter, we leave a small Iland on our Larboard side

This Bay or Pry, lies to the Leeward of the Iland; by reason whereof we found so great, so insufferable heate, as you will hardly imagine that bodyes comming out of cold Climates, could indure such scorching without being suffocated.

I had in a Cabinet two pieces of hard waxe, in the hold of the ship both melted and clave together; and the Cement of that Cabinet, that was made to hold the Inke, melted and became flat.

So that finding the Ayer so torridly hot, I thought good to make triall of the water; and I leapt into the sea, which appeared to my sense no more colder than the Ayer; than the Queens bath (at Bathe) is hotter in June here in England.

At the bottome, or inward part of the Pry, there appeared to us, a faire round rising hill, neere halfe the bredth of the Pry, not much unlike the How at Plimouth, with a valley on either side; And on the brow of the Hill towards the right hand, a very high and steep precipice of a rocke; in which stood the house of the Padre Vagado, fixt on the top of the rocke. A house fit enough for such a Master; for though he were the chiefe Commander of the Iland: yet by his port and house he kept he was more like a Hermite then a Governour. His familie consisting of a Mollotto of his own getting, three Negroes, a Fidler, and a Wench. Himselfe a man grave enough to be wise, but certainly of no great learning; for upon the differences between Bernardo and us, Colonel Modiford writ him a letter in Latin, which he did his best endeavour to answer but fell two bowes short in substance and language, and though his Quarrell were to us, yet he revenged himselfe on Priscian, whose head he broke 3 or 4 times in his letter.

The first time we saw him, was at his own house, by his own invitation: to which almost inaccessible habitation, when we had climed with infinite difficulty; and indeed so painfull and violent was our motion: (our leggs finding the motion of elevation, much more violent then of distention,) as we were almost scalded within, and the torrid heat of the Sun, being then our Zenith, did so scald us without, as we were in fitter condition to be fricased for the Padres dinner, then to eat any dinner our selves.

Being painfully and pipeing hot, arriv’d at this exalted mansion; we found none to entertaine us but Bernardo; whose countenance was not so well reconcil’d to himselfe, as to give us a hearty welcome. He told us that the Padre was gone forth about some affaires of the Iland, but would returne time enough to dinner. And whilst we were staying there, expecting his comming, we thought good not to be idle, for the structure of that Fabricke, did not minister to our eyes much of delight. Onely that it had a faier prospect to sea. So we walkt along upon that round hill, enquiring what we could of the place; and were inform’d that there had been formerly a very stately Town, beautified with faire buildings, and streets so contrived, as to make the best use of such a prospect; But burnt and demolisht by Sr Francis Drake, in the time of the warres, between Queen Elizabeth, and the King of Spaine, which made us give more reverence to the place; for that some of our Countreymen had there sacrificed their lives for the Honour of our Nation.

About the houre that our stomacks told us, it was full high time to pay Nature her due, we lookt about us, and perceived at a good distance, a horse comming towards us, with a man on his back, as hard as his heels could carry him; and within a very little time, made a sudden stop at the Padres house, from whose backe (being taken by two Negroes,) was set on the ground a great fat man, with a gowne on his back, his face not so black as to be counted a Molotto, yet I believe full out as black as the Knight of the Sunne; his eyes blacker if possible, and so far sunk into his head, as with a large pinne you might have prick’t them out in the nappe of his necke. Upon his a lighting we perceived him very much discomposed, for the pace he rid, was not his usuall manner of riding, as by our enquiry afterwards we understood; and that he very seldom rid at all, but his business having held him over long, caus’d him to take horse, who intended to come a foot; and being mounted, (and he none of the best horsemen,) was made subject to the wil of his horse; which being a Barbe, & very swift of foot, comming towards the place where he was kept, ranne with such violence, as it was a wonder his burthen had not been cast by the way; for the Horse having a bit in his month, and the stirrops being extreame short, as the manner of their riding there is, if he had ever checkt him with the bridle, that he had been put to bound, he had undoubtedly layd him on the ground. But the rider that thought of nothing more, then holding fast by the pummell with both handes, was miraculously preserv’d.

In this great discomposure, he was taken off by two Negroes, and set on his owne legs: but in such a trance, as for some minutes, he was not in a Condition to speake to us: So sensible an impression had the feare of falling made in him. But being at last come to himselfe, he made his addresse to us, and in his language bid us welcome, begining to excuse his too long stay: to redeeme which fault, he had put himselfe in such a hazard, as in his whole life he had not knowne the like. We answered, that it argued a great respect and civilitie to us, that he would expose his gravitie, which was accustomed to a moderate pace, to such a swiftnes of motion, as might in any kinde indanger his health, or hazard his person. But he being a man much reserv’d, and slow of language, said no more; but brought us into his house; which was upon a Levell at the entrance, but the other side of the Rooms a steep precipice, and some of the roomes like galleries such as are in the meanest Innes upon London-way. There were not in the house above 4 roomes, besides two galleries and a Kitchin; and those all on a flower; and the flowers of earth, not so much as made Levell, nor soeeven as to deserve sweeping; and the most of them were justly dealt withall: for they had no more then they deserv’d, both above and below; for the Cobwebs serv’d for hangings, and frying pans and gred-irons for pictures.

By this equipage, you may guesse what the trading is of this Iland, when the Governour is thus accoutred; but by and by, a Cloath was layde, of Calico, with 4 or 5 Napkins of the same, to serve a dozen men. The first Course was set on the table, usherd in by the Padre himselfe, (Bernardo, the Mollotto, and Negroes following after,) with every one a dish of fruite, 6 in all; the first was Milons, Plantines the second, the third Bonanos, the 4 of Guavers, the 5 of Prickled Peares, the 6 the Custard Apple: but to fill up the table, and make the feast yet more sumptuous, the Padre sent his Mollotto, into his own Chamber, for a dish which he reserv’d for the Close of all the rest; Three Pines in a dish, which were the first that ever I had seene, and as farre beyond the best fruite that growes in England, as the best Abricot is beyond the worst Slow or Crab.

Having well refresht our selves with these excellent fruites, we dranke a glasse or two of Red Sack; a kinde of wine growing in the Maderas; verie strong, but not verie pleasant; for in this Iland, there is made noe wine at all; nor as I thinke any of grapes, so neere the Line upon Ilands in all the world. Having made an end of our fruite, the dishes were taken away, and another Course fetcht in; which was of flesh, fish, and sallets; the sallets being first plac’t upon the table; which I tooke great heed of, being all Novelties to me, but the best and most savourie herbs that ever I tasted, verie well season’d with salt, Oyle, and the best vinagre. Severall sorts we had, but not mixt, but in severall dishes, all strange, and all excellent. The first dish of flesh, was a leg of young sturke, or a wilde Calfe, of a yeare old; which was of the Colour of stags flesh, and tasted very like it, full of Nerves and sinewes, strong meat and very well Condited: boyld tender, and the sauce of savorie herbes, with Spanish Vinagre. Turkyes and Hens we had roasted; a gigget of young goate, fish in abundance of severall kindes, whose names I have forgotten, Snappers, grey and red; Cavallos, Carpions, &c: with others of rare colours and shapes, too many to be named in this leafe; some fryed in oyle, and eaten hot, some souc’t, some marinated: of all these we tasted, and were much delighted.

Dinner being neere halfe done, (the Padre, Bernardo, and the other black atendants, waiting on us;) in comes an old fellow, whose complexion was raised out of the red Sack; for neare that Colour it was: his head and beard milke white, his Countenance bold and Cheerfull, a Lute in his hand, and plaide us for a Noveltie, The Passame sares galiard; a tune in great esteeme, in Harry the fourths dayes; for when Sir John Falstaff makes his Amours to Mistresse Doll Tear-sheet, Sneake and his Companie, the admired fidlers of that age, playes this tune, which put a thought into my head, that if time and tune be the Composits of Musicke, what a long time this tune had in sayling from England to this place. But we being sufficiently satisfied with this kind of harmonie, desired a song; which he performed in as Antique a manner; both savouring much of Antiquitie; no Graces, double relishes, Trillos, Groppos or Piano Forte’s, but plaine as a packstaffe; his Lute too, was but of tenne strings, and that was in fashion in King Davids dayes; soe that the raritie of this Antique piece, pleas’d me beyond measure.

Dinner being ended, and the Padre well neere wearie of his wayting, we rose, and made roome for better Companie; for now the Padre, and his blacke mistresse were to take their turnes; A Negro of the greatest beautie and majestie together: that ever I saw in one woman. Her stature large, and excellently shap’t, well favour’d, full eye’d, & admirably grac’t; she wore on her head a roll of green taffatie, strip’t with white and Philiamort, made up in manner of a Turban; and over that a sleight vayle, which she tooke off at pleasure. On her bodie next her linen, a Peticoate of Orange Tawny and Skye Colour; not done with Straite stripes, but wav’d; and upon that a mantle of purple silke, ingrayld with straw Colour. This Mantle was large, and tyed with a knot of verie broad black Ribbon, with a rich Jewell on her right shoulder, which came under her left arme, and so hung loose and carelesly, almost to the ground. On her Legs, she wore buskins of wetched Silke, deckt with Silver lace, and Fringe; Her shooes, of white Leather, lac’t with skie colour; and pinkt between those laces. In her eares, she wore Large Pendants, about her neck; and on her armes, fayre Pearles. But her eyes were her richest Iewells: for they were the largest, and most orientall, that I have ever seene.

Seing all these perfections in her onely at passage, but not yet heard her Speake; I was resolv’d after dinner, to make an Essay: what a present of rich silver silke and gold Ribbon would doe, to perswade her to open her lips: Partly out of a Curiositie, to see whether her teeth were exactly white, and cleane, as I hop’d they were; for ’tis a generall opinion, that all Negroes have white teeth; but that is a Common error, for the black and white, being so neere together, they set off on another with the greater advantage. But looke neerer to them, and you shall find those teeth, which at a distance appear’d rarely white, are yellow and foul. This knowledge wrought this Curiositie in me, but it was not the mayne end of my enquirie; for there was now, but one thing more, to set her off in my opinioni, the rarest black swanne that I had ever seen, and that was her language, & gracefull delivery of that, which was to unite and confirme a perfection in all the rest. And to that end I took a Gentleman that spoke good Spanish with me, and awaited her comming out, which was with far greater majesty, and gracefulness, then I have seen Queen Anne, descend from the Chaire of State, to dance the Measures with a Baron of England, at a Maske in the Banquetting house. And truly, had her followers and friends, with other perquisits (that ought to be the attendants on such a state and beautie) wayted on her, I had made a stop, and gone no farther. But finding her but slightly attended, and considering she was but the Padres Mistres, & therefore the more accessible, I made my addresses to her, by my interpreter; & told her, I had some Trifles made by the people of England, which for their value were not worthy her acceptance, yet for their Novelty, they might be of some esteem, such having bin worn by the great Queens of Europe, & intreated her to vouchsafe to receive them. She with much gravity, and reservedness, opened the paper; but when she lookt on them, the Colours pleased her so, as she put her gravity into the loveliest smile that I have ever seen. And then shewed her rowes of pearls, so clean, white, Orient, and well shaped, as Neptunes Court was never pav’d with such as these; & to shew whether was whiter, or more Orient, those or the whites of her eyes, she turn’d them up, & gave me such a look, as was a sufficient return for a far greater present, and withall wisht, I would think of somewhat wherein she might pleasure me, and I should finde her both ready and willing. And so with a gracefull bow of her neck, she took her way towards her own house; which was not above a stones cast from the Padres. Other addresses were not to be made, without the dislike of the Padre, for they are there as jealous of their Mistrisses, as the Italians of their wives.

In the afternoon we took leave, and went aboard; where we remained three or four days; about which time, some passengers of the ship, who had no great store of linnen for shift, desired leave to go ashoare and took divers women along with them, to wash their linnen. But (it seem’d) the Portugalls, and Negroes too, found them handsome and fit for their turnes, and were a little Rude, I cannot say Ravisht them; for the Major part of them, being taken from Bridewell, Turnboule street, and such like places of education, were better natur’d then to suffer such violence; yet complaints were made, when they came aboard, both of such abuses, and stealing their linnen.

But such a praise they gave of the place, as we all were desirous to see it: for, after the Raine, every day gave an increase to the beauty of the place, by the budding out of new fruits and flowers.

This was the valley on the left side of the Hill, more spacious and beautifull by much than that on the right hand, where the Padre dwelt. The next day, a dozen Gentlemen of our company, resolv’d to go and see this so much admired valley, and when our Saylers with their long boat went to fetch water, (as dayly they did,) we went along with them and landed there, in as high going Billows, as I have ever seen, so near the land. Much adoe we had, to be carried to land though on mens backs, and yet the grapple came as near the shoare as they durst bring it, for bulging against the bottome.

No sooner were we landed, but the Captaine of the Castle, with one souldier with him; came towards us, with a slow formall pace; who desired to speake with one of us alone. Colonel Modiford, being the chiefe man in the Company, went with an Interpreter to meet him; and being at the distance of speech, desired to know his pleasure; which he told him was this. That he understood divers of our women had bin ashoare, the day before; and received some injury, from the people of the Iland, and that it was conceiv’d, we were come Arm’d to take revenge on those that did the affront. He therefore advised us, either to make speedy returne to the boate that brought us: or to send back our swords and pistols, and commit our selves to his protection; and if one of those were not presently put in act, we should in a very short time have all our throats Cut.

We told him we had no intention of revenge for any wrong done, and that the only cause of our landing, was to see the beauty of the place we had heard so much Commended, by our people that were ashore, of which they had given a very large testimony, both of the pleasantness and fruitfulness of it, and that our visit was out of love, both to the place and people. But for sending our weapons back to the boate, we desired his pardon; for this reason, that the Billows going so very high at that time, we could not send them to the boat without being dipt in the Sea water, which would spoyle them; and the most of them, being rich swords, and pistols, we were loath to have their beauty covered with rust, which the salt water would be the occasion of. We desired rather, that he would Command a souldier of his, to stay with a man of ours, and keep them safe, till our returne; which he being content to doe, we committed our selves to his protection, who put a guard upon us of 10 Souldiers, part Portugalls part Negroes; the most part of either kind, as proper men as I have seen, and as handsomely cloathed.

Their garments made with much Art, and all seem’d to be done by the Tayler; the Coverings for their heads, were not unlike Helmits; of blew and white strip’t silke, some tawny, and yellow, others of other sorts of Colours; but all of one fashion, their doublets close to their bodies, with Cassocks, made of the fashion of the Kings guard: loose sleeves, which came to their elbowes; but large and gathered so as to fit loose from their armes; with foure large skirts, reaching down to the middle of their thighs; but these of a different colour from their suits, their breeches indifferently large, comming down below the knee; and the upper part, so wrought with Whalebones within, as to keep them hollow, from touching their backs; to avoid heat, which they were much troubled with; upon their leggs, buskins of the colour of their suits, yet some made a difference: their shooes Colour’d for the most part; some white, but very few blacke. Their weapons, as Swords, Pistols, Muskets, Pikes, and Partisans, kept very bright, and worne comelily and gracefully; which argued a decencie in the Commander, as their awfull respect did of his austeritie.

Being now under a Guard, we marcht into this valley, one of the delightfullest places that I have ever seen, for besides the high and loftie trees, as the Palmeto, Royall, Coco, Cedar, Locust, Masticke, Mangrave, Bully, Redwood, Pickled yellow wood, Cassia, Fistula, Calibash, Cherry, Figgtree, whose body is large inough for timber, Cittrons, Custard apple, Guavers, Macow, Cipres, Oranges, Limons, Lymes, Pomegranat, Anotto, Prickled apple, Prickled peare, Papa, these and more may be accounted wood: and yet a good part of them bearing excellent fruit; But then there are of a lesser sort, that beare the rarest fruit; whose bodyes cannot be accompted wood, as the Plantine, Pine, Bonano, Milon, water Millon, &c. and some few grapes, but those inconsiderable, by reason they can never make wine: because they have no winter, and so by that meanes, they can never ripe together, but one is green, another ripe, another rotten, which reason will ever hold, that no wine can be made on Ilands, where there is no winter; or within twenty degrees of the line on either side. I have heard that wine is made in the East Indies, within lesse then fifteen Degrees; but ’tis of the Palme tree; out of whose body, they draw both wine and oyle; which wine will not keep above a day, but no wine of grapes, for the reasons aforesaid. Other kinds of trees, we found good to smell to, as Mirtle, Jesaman, Tamarisk, with a tree somewhat of that bignesse, bearing a very beautifull flower. The first halfe next the stalke, of a deep yellow or gold colour; the other halfe, being the larger, of a rich Scarlet; shap’d like a Carnation, & when the flowers fall off, there grows a Cod, with 7 or 8 seeds in it, divers of which, we carried to the Barbados, and planted there: and they grew and multiplied abundantly, and they call them there, the St. Jago flower, which is a beautifull, but no sweet flower.

From these woods of pleasant trees, we saw flying divers birds, some one way, some another, of the fairest, and most beautifull colours that can be imagined in Nature: others whose Colours and shapes come short of these, did so excell in sweetnesse, and loudness of voyce, as our Nightingals in England, are short of them, in either of those two properties; but in variety of tunes, our birds are beyond them, for in that they are defective.

In this valley of pleasure, adorn’d as you have heard, we march’t with our Guard, faire and softly, near a quarter of a mile; before we came to the much praised fountaine; from whence we fetcht our water. The circle whereof, was about 60 foot, the Diameter about 20 from the ground to the top of the Well, (which was of freestone,) 3 foot and a halfe; from thence within, downe to the surface of the water, about 15 foot. The spring it selfe, not so much to be praised for the excellency of the taste, though cleare inough, as for the Nymphs that repaire thither. For whilst we stayed there seeing the Saylers fill their Casks; and withall Contemplating the glory of the place: there appeard to our view, many pretie young Negro Virgins, playing about the Well. But amongst those; two, that came downe with either of them a naturall Pitcher, a Calibash upon their arme, to fetch water from this fountaine. Creatures, of such shapes, as would have puzzelld Albert Durer, the great Mr of Proportion, but to have imitated; and Tition, or Andrea de Sarta, for softnes of muscles, and Curiositie of Colouring, though with a studied diligence; and a love both to the partie and the worke. To expresse all the perfections of Nature, and Parts, these Virgins were owners of, would aske a more skillfull pen, or pencill then mine; Sure I am, though all were excellent, their motions were the highest, and that is a beautie no painter can expresse, and therefore my pen may well be silent; yet a word or two, would not be amisse, to expresse the difference between these, and those of high Africa; as of Morcoco, Guinny, Binny, Cutchow, Angola, Æthiopia, and Mauritania, or those that dwell nere the River of Gambia, who are thick lipt, short nosd, and commonly low foreheads. But these, are compos’d of such features, as would marre the judgment of the best Paynters, to undertake to mend. Wanton, as the soyle that bred them, sweet as the fruites they fed on; for being come so neere, as their motions, and graces might perfectly be discern’d, I guest that Nature could not, without help of Art, frame such accomplisht beauties not onely of colours, and favour, but of motion too, which is the highest part of beautie. If dancing had bin in fashion in this Iland, I might have been perswaded, that they had bin taught those motions, by some who had studied that Art. But considering the Padre’s Musique to be the best the Iland afforded, I could not but cast away that thought, and attribute all to pure nature; Innocent, as youthfull, their ages about 15. Seing their beauties so fresh and youthfull, withall the perfections I have named, I thought good to trie, whether the uttering of their language, would be as sweet and harmonious, as their other partes were comely. And by the helpe of a Gentleman that spoke Portugall, I accosted them; and began to praise their beauties, shapes, and manner of dressings; which was extreamly prettie. Their haire not shorne as the Negroes in the places I have named, close to their heads; nor in quarters, and mases, as they use to weare it, which is ridiculous to all that see them, but themselves: But in a due proportion of length, so as having their shortenings by the naturall Curles, they appeared as wiers, and artificiall dressings to their faces. On the sides of their Cheeks, they plat little of it, of purpose to tie small Ribbon; or some small beads, of white Amber, or blew bugle, sometimes of the rare flowers that grow there; Their eares hung with Pendants, their necks and armes adorn’d with bracelets of Counterfeit pearles, and blew bugle; such as the Portugalls bestow on them, for these are free Negroes, and weare upon the small of one of their legs, the badge of their freedome; which is a small peece of silver, or tinne, as big as the stale of a spoone; which comes round about the leg; and by reason of the smoothnes, and lightnes, is no impediment to their going. Their cloathes, were petticoates of Strip’t silk, next to their linen, which reach to their midle leg: and upon that a mantle, of blew taffitie, tied with a Ribbon on the right shoulder: which coming under the left arme, hung downe carelesly somewhat lower then the petticoate, so as a great part of the naturall beautie, of their backes and necks before, lay open to the veiw, their breast round, firme, and beautifully shaped.

Upon my addresses to them, they appeard a little disturb’d; and whispered to one another, but had not the Confidence to speake aloud. I had in my hat, a piece of silver and silke Ribbon, which I perceiv’d their well shap’t eyes, often to dart at; but their modesties would not give them Confidence to aske. I tooke it out, and divided it between them, which they accepted with much alacritie; and in returne, dranke to one another my health in the liquor of the pure fountaine, which I perceiv’d by their wanton smiles, and jesticulations, and casting their eyes towards me: when they thought they had exprest enough they would take in their Countenances, and put themselves in the modestest postures that could be, but we having brought a Cas of bottles of English spirits, with us; I cald for some, and drunke a health to them, in a small dramme cup; and gave it to one of them, which they smelt to, and finding it too strong for their temper, pour’d some of it into one of their Calibashes: and put to it as much water, as would temper it to their palats; they dranke againe, but all this would not give them the Confidence to speake, but, in mute language, and extream prety motions, shewed, they wanted neither wit nor discretion, to make an answer. But it seem’d, it was not the fashion there, for young Maides to speak to strangers, in so publick a place.

I thought I had been sufficiently arm’d with the perfections I found in the Padre’s Mistresse, as to be free from the darts of any other Beauty of that place, and in so short a time: But I found the difference between young fresh Beauties, and those that are made up with the addition of State and Majesty: For though they counsell and perswade our Loves; yet, young Beauties force, and so commit rapes upon our affections. In summe, had not my heart been fixed fast in my breast, and dwelt there above sixty years, and therefore loath to leave his long kept habitation, I had undoubtedly left it between them for a Legacy. For, so equall were there Beauties, and my Love, as it was not, nor could be, particular to either.

I have heard it a question disputed, whether if a Horse, being plac’d at an equall distance, between two bottles of hey, equally good; and his appetite being equally fix’d upon either: Whether that Horse must not necessarily starve. For, if he feed on either, it must argue, that his appetite was more fixt on that; or else, that bottle was better than the other. Otherwise, what should move him to chose one before the other?

In this posture was I, with my two Mistresses; or rather, my two halves of one Mistresse: for, had they been conjoyned, and so made one, the poynt of my Love had met there; but, being divided, and my affection not forked, it was impossible to fix, but in one Centre.

In this doubtfull condition, I took my leave, with an assurance, that I should never finde two such parallel Paragons, in my whole search through the World: And the reason of their so great likenesse and lustre, was, they were Sisters and Twins; as I was after informed by a Hermite, that came often to visit us, when we came on land, as we often did, and not far off from his Cell.

But you will think it strange, that a man of my age and gravity, should have so much to do with Beauty and Love: But I have three arguments to protect me. The first is, I have in my younger dayes, been much inclined to Painting, in which Art, colour, favour, and shape is exercised; and these Beauties, being a proper subject of all these perfections, (being in themselves perfect) I could not but consider them with a studied diligence.

Next, I had been long at Sea, without setting foot on any Land; and that hath a property, to make all Land-objects beautifull; and these being in the highest degree paramount, could not but surprise my fancy. Besides, the place being extream beautifull and lovely, could not but secretly harbour in it the Spirit of Love, a passion not to be governed. And therefore I hope, you will pardon my wilde extravagancy.

But the main reason of this flying out, is, I had little else to say: for the Iland, being a place of very little or no traffick, could not afford much of discourse. Cattle they have very good, and large, which, they sell at very easy rates; and likewise Horses, of excellent shapes and mettle; but they are contrabanded goods, and whosoever deales in them, (without speciall license) forfeits both Ship and Goods, if, they have power to compell them.

But I believe, they have not, being partly informed by the Hermite, who came often to us, to hear newes, and beg somewhat of us; which being obtained, he would not stick to impart somewhat of the weaknesse of the Iland, that would have cost him dear, if it had been known to the Padre. And some of that which he enformed us, was, that the Forts, and Block houses, on either side the Prye, on which we saw the appearance of Ordnances, good store, and large; but we understood by him, that those Forts were neither regular, nor the Guns Brasse or Iron, but such as Henry the Eighth took Bulloyne with; and this we found by experience to be true: For, upon our first difference with Barnardo, and the Padre, we weyed Anchor, and removed ourselves out of the distance of the Castle, which stood in the bottom of the Prye; and expected to have been shot at from those Forts and Block houses, but saw no fire given; and if they had been furnish’d with such Artillery as would have reach’d us, we should certainly have heard from them.

We also enquired of our Intelligencer, the Hermite, what Trades or Manufactures were practised there; but were answered, that they were few, and inconsiderable; Sugar, Sweet-meats, and Coco-nuts, being the greatest trade they had. Yet by the Padres leave, we carried away with us 50 head of Cattle, and 8 Horses, which Barnardo made us pay double for; the usual price being 25 s. a piece, for which he made us pay 50 s. and for Horses, 10 l. a piece, which others have had for 4 or 5 l. But he was content, we should rate our commodities accordingly, and so we were no great losers by the exchange.

Having dispatch’d our businesse, we got leave to go ashoar, upon the little Iland, at the entrance of the Prye, there to cut and pull grasse, for our Horses and Cattle, which we made up into hay; a work quickly done, where so much Sun-shine was our helper. It being perfectly dried, we stowed it in the ship, which was our last work, and so wayed Anchor, and hoysed Saile, steering our course for the Barbadoes, leaving Bernardo (according to his own desire) behinde us; having but 2 Degrees to the southward to varie, in the running of 620 Leagues Westward. St. Jago lying in 15. and the Barbadoes in 13 Degrees and 30 Minutes, to the Northward of the Line.

There are seven more Ilands, which are called the Ilands of Cape Verd: viz. S. Michaels, St. Vincents, St. Anthonies, St. Lucia, Bravo, Fogo, and Soll: Some of which are much larger, but none so considerable, as this of St. Jago.

As we lay at Anchor in the entrance of the Prye, we perceived at Sun-set, between the Sun and us, the Iland called Fogo; which was at such a distance, as none of us could discern it all the day, till that houre; and then the Iland interposing between the Sun and us, we saw it perfectly, shap’d like the neather half of a Sugar loafe, the upper half being cut off eeven; and in the midst of the top of that, a smoak and fire rising out, from which we guest it took its name.

About the tenth of August, we put out to Sea; and as we sayled, we left the Iland of our Starbord-side, and did not part with the sight of it, till we discern’d a little Town, near to the shoar, which, we were told, was the best in the Iland, and a place meant for the chief Port, for all Traffick in the Iland; but by means of a great mischiefe, that Ships were subject to in that Harbour, it was almost totally deserted: For the Sea there, was so rocky in the bottome, and those rocks so thick together, and sharp withall, as they cut the Cables off neer to the Anchor, and so the Anchor often left in the bottom. There was a Dutchman that lay there but three daies, and in that little stay, lost two Anchors. From this Iland to the Barbadoes, we account 620 Leagues; which, by reason of the constancy of the Windes, which blow seldome in any other point, than Nore-east and By-east, they have usually sayled it in 16 or 17 daies. But we, for that it was the time of Tornado, when the windes chop about into the South, were somewhat retarded in our passage, and made it twenty two daies ere we came thither; and many have made it a far longer time. For, in the time of Tornado, the clouds interpose so thick, and darken the skie so much, as we are not able to make an observation for a fortnight together; and so being doubtfull of our Latitude, dare not make the best use of our Sayles and way, for fear of slipping by the Island; and being past it, can hardly beat it up again, without putting out into the Main, and so by painfull traverses, recover our selves to the Eastward of the Iland, and then fall back again, by the due Latitude upon it, at 13 Degrees and 30 Minutes.

Besides this paines, and losse of time, when we misse the Iland, we many times run hazards, by falling upon the Leeward Ilands, in the night, of which the Bay of Merixo is well stor’d.

In this long reach, (which may be call’d a voyage it selfe) I had only two things to make the way seem short; the one was Pleasure, the other Businesse; that of Pleasure, was, to view the Heavens, and the beauty of them, which were objects of so great glory, as the Inhabitants of the World, from 40 Degrees to either Pole, can never be witnesse of. And this happens at the time, when the Turnado is with those of that Latitude, where we were. For the clouds being exhal’d in great quantities, some thick and grosse, some thin and aeriall, and being hurl’d and roll’d about with great and lesser curles, the Sun then and there being far brighter, then with us here in England, caused such glorious colours to rest upon those Clouds, as ’tis not possible to be believed, by him that hath not seen it, nor can imagination frame so great a beauty: And the reason is, the neernesse and propinquity of the place we are in, which makes us see the glory of the Sun, and of those Stars too, which move in that Horizon, much more perfectly, then at a further distance. The proof of this I found, by looking on the Stars, that appear large and bright to us in England, which being seen there, do not only lose much of their light, but of their magnitude. For instance; There is a little Star, called Auriga, neer the Charles Wain, which in England I have seen very perfectly, in bright nights; but at that distance, I could never see it in the clearest night, though I have often attempted it. And upon my return to England, I found it as I left it; which argues, that it was no decay or impediment in my sight, that made me lose it, but only the distance of place. I deny not, but a better sight then mine, may see this Star Auriga at the Barbadoes; but then, so good a sight may see it more perfectly in England than I can; and so the comparison holds. But another reason, to prove the Celestiall Bodies brighter at neerer distance, is, That the Moon being neer the Full, (at which time it gives a plentifull light) I have observed in the night, (the Sun having been set two hours, or thereabouts) and at such a time, as the Clouds being in a fit Position, to reflect the beams which the Moon then gives, to the place where you are, you shall see a perfect Rain-bow in the night. But this does not happen at all times, though there be Clouds, for the beams to rest on; but only to such as are in an angle, where these beams reflect, and meet in a just point.

Divers new Constellations we found, to the Southward, which in our Horizon are never seen; and amongst them, one, which we call the Cruseros, which is made up of foure Stars, which stand almost square, or rather like the clawes of a Birds foot; and the Sea-men told us, that two of them point at the South Pole, as the Poynters of the Charles Wain, do to the North Star. But the South Pole cannot be seen by us, that come from the Northern parts, till we be under the Line, and then we see both North and South; as we do the Sun in morning and evening, at six and six. And thus much for Pleasure.

Now for Businesse, it was only this: To inform my selfe, the best I could, of the account the Master and his Mates kept, of the Ships way, both for Compasse, Card, and Logline, together with the observations at noon, by that excellent and usefull Instrument, the Back-staffe, by which we know to a mile, the Latitude we are in; and if we had an Instrument, to finde out the Longitude as perfectly, every man might guid a Ship, that could but keep an account.

To the knowledge of this great secret, of the Ships Course, divers Gentlemen of our company applyed themselves very diligently; for the Master was not forward, to communicate his skill to all that were of his Messe. And to such a proficiency we were grown, as to lay a wager with the Boat-swain, a very good Seaman, upon the first sight of the Iland of Barbadoes. He laid, we should not see it till the afternoon, or late in the evening. We, that we should make it before noon. Whether it were chance, or our skilfulnesse, I know not, but we won the wager, which was a couple of very fat Hens, which we caused to be drest, and eat them in sight of the Iland, with a double joy: first, that we had won the wager; next, that we were grown so neer our wished Harbour.

Being now come in sight of this happy Iland, the neerer we came, the more beautifull it appeared to our eyes; for that being in it selfe extreamly beautifull, was best discern’d, and best judg’d of, when our eyes became full Masters of the object. There we saw the high, large, and lofty Trees, with their spreading Branches, and flourishing tops, seem’d to be beholding to the earth and roots, that gave them such plenty of sap for their nourishment, as to grow to that perfection of beauty and largenesse. Whilst they, in gratitude, return their cool shade, to secure and shelter them from the Suns heat, which, without it, would scorch and drie away. So that bounty and goodnesse in the one, and gratefulnesse in the other, serve to make up this beauty, which otherwise would lie empty & waste. And truly these vegetatives, may teach both the sensible and reasonable Creatures, what it is that makes up wealth, beauty, and all harmony in that Leviathan, a well governed Common-wealth: Where the Mighty men, and Rulers of the earth, by their prudent and carefull protection, secure them from harmes; whilst they retribute their paynes, and faithfull obedience, to serve them in all just Commands. And both these, interchangeably and mutually in love, which is the Cord that bindes up all in perfect Harmonie. And where these are wanting, the roots dry, and leaves fall away, and a generall decay, and devastation ensues. Witnesse the woefull experience of these sad times we live in.

Being now come to the distance of two or three leagues, my first observation was, the forme of the Iland in generall, which is highest in the middle; by which commodity of situation, the inhabitants within, have these advantages; a free prospect to sea, and a reception of pure refreshing ayer, and breezes that come from thence: the plantations overlooking one another so, as the most inland parts, are not bar’d nor restrained the liberties of their view to sea, by those that dwell between them and it. For as we past along neer the shoare, the plantations appear’d to us one above another: like severall stories in stately buildings, which afforded us a large proportion of delight. So that we begg’d of the Master, to take down those of his sayles, that gave the ship the greatest motion, that we might not be depriv’d on a sudden, of a sight we all were so much pleased with. But our Cattle and Horses (who were under hatches; and therefore no partners of this object,) having devoured all their fodder, and were now ready to come to that necessity, as the next thing to be thought on, was to plane deale boards, and feed them with the shavings; Which deadly hunger, caused such lowing and bellowing of the poor Cattle, as their cry stopped the Masters eares, so as the smoothest, and most perswasive language, we could use: could not force a passage, but with all the haste he could, put into Carlile Bay; which is the best in the Iland, where we found riding at Anchor, 22 good ships, with boates plying to and fro, with Sayles and Oares, which carried commodities from place to place: so quick stirring, and numerous, as I have seen it below the bridge at London.

Yet notwithstanding all this appearance of trade, the Inhabitants of the Ilands, and shipping too, were so grieviously visited with the plague, (or as killing a disease,) that before a month was expired, after our Arivall, the living were hardly able to bury the dead. Whether it were brought thither in shipping: (for in long voyages, diseases grow at Sea, and takes away many passengers, and those diseases prove contagious,) or by the distempers of the people of the Iland: who by the ill dyet they keep, and drinking strong waters, bring diseases upon themselves, was not certainly known. But I have this reason to beleeve the latter: because for one woman that dyed, there were ten men; and the men were the greater deboystes.

In this sad time, we arriv’d in this Iland; and it was a doubt whether this disease, or famine threatned most; There being a generall scarcity of Victuals throughout the whole Iland.

Our intention at first, was not to stay long there, but onely to sell our goods, Cattle, and Horses; and so away to Antigoa; where we intended to plant: but the ships being (for the most part) infected with this disease, and our selves being unprovided of handes for a new plantation (by reason of the miscarying of a ship, which set out before us from Plimouth, a month before, with men, victuals, and all utensill’s fitted for a plantation, we were compelled to stay longer in the Iland than we attended). Besides, the ship we came in, was consigned to another part in Africa, called Cutchew, to trade for Negroes.

But during the time of our stay there, we made enquires of some small plantation to rest us on, til the times became better, and fitter for our remove; with intent to make use of those few hands we had, to settle that, till we had supplies, and new directions from England.

And so upon discourse with some of the most knowing men of the Iland, we found that it was farre better, for a man that had money, goods, or Credit, to purchase a plantation there ready furnisht, and stockt with Servants, Slaves, Horses, Cattle, Assinigoes, Camels, &c. with a sugar worke, and an Ingenio: than to begin upon a place, where land is to be had for nothing, but a triviall Rent, and to indure all hardships, and a tedious expectation, of what profit or pleasure may arise, in many yeers patience: and that, not to be expected, without large and frequent supplies from England; and yet fare, and labour hard. This knowledge, was a spurre to set on Colonel Modiford, who had both goods and credit, to make enquiry for such a purchase, which in very few dayes he lighted on; making a visit to the Governour Mr. Phillip Bell, met there with Major William Hilliard, an eminent planter of the Iland, and a Councellor, who had been long there, and was now desirous to sucke in some of the sweet ayre of England: And glad to find a man likely to performe with him, took him home to his house, and began to treate with him, for halfe the plantation upon which he lived; which had in it 500 Acres of Land, with a faire dwelling house, an Ingenio plac’t in a roome of 400 foot square; a boyling house, filling roome, Cisterns, and Still-house; with a Carding house, of 100 foot long, and 40 foot broad; with stables, Smiths forge, and rooms to lay provisions, of Corne, and Bonavist; Houses for Negroes and Indian slaves, with 96 Negroes, and three Indian women, with their Children; 28 Christians, 45 Cattle for worke, 8 Milch Cowes, a dosen Horses and Mares, 16 Assinigoes.

After a Months treaty, the bargaine was concluded, and Colonel Modiford was to pay for the Moity of this plantation, 7000 l; to be payed, 1000 l. in hand, the rest 2000 l. a time, at sixe and sixe months, and Colonel Modiford to receive the profit of halfe the plantation as it rose, keeping the account together, both of the expence and profit.

In this plantation of 500 acres of land, there was imployed for sugar somewhat more then 200 acres; above 80 acres for pasture, 120 for wood, 30 for Tobacco, 5 for Ginger, as many for Cotton wool, and 70 acres for provisions; viz. Corne, Potatoes, Plantines, Cassavie, and Bonavist; some few acres of which for fruite; viz. Pines, Plantines, Milons, Bonanoes, Guavers, Water Milons, Oranges; Limons, Limes, &c. most of these onely for the table.

Upon this plantation I lived with these two partners a while, but with Colonel Modiford three years; for the other went for England, and left Colonel Modiford to manage the imployment alone; and I to give what assistance I could for the benefit of both: which I did, partly at their requests, and partly at the instance of Mr. Thomas Kendall, who reposed much confidence in me, in case Colonel Modiford should miscarry in the Voyage.

I only speak thus much, that you may perceive, I had time enough to improve my selfe, in the knowledge of the managment of a Plantation of this bulk; and therefore, you may give the more credit in what I am to say, concerning the profit and value of this Plantation, which I intend as a Scale, for those that go upon the like; or to varie it to greater or lesse proportions, at their pleasure. And indeed, I wanted no tutridge, in the learning this mystery; for, to do him right, I hold Collonell Modiford as able, to undertake and perform such a charge, as any I know. And therefore I might (according to my ability) be able to say something, which I will, as briefly as I can, deliver to you, in such plain language as I have.

But before I come to say any thing of the Iland, as it was when I arrived there, I will beg leave, to deliver you a word or two, what hath been told me by the most ancient Planters, that we found there, and what they had by tradition from their Predecessors. For, few or none of them that first set foot there, were now living.

About the year ____ a Ship of Sir William Curteens, returning from Fernambock in Brasill, being driven by foul weather upon this coast, chanc’d to fall upon this Iland, which is not far out of the way, being the most windwardly Iland of all the Carribbies, (Tobago only excepted;) and Anchoring before it, stayed some time, to informe themselves of the nature of the place; which they found by tryalls in severall parts, to be so overgrown with Wood, as there could be found no Champions, or Savannas for men to dwell in; nor found they any beasts to inhabit there, only Hogs, and those in abundance: the Portugalls having long before, put some ashoar for breed, in case they should at any time be driven by foul weather, to be cast upon the Iland, they might there finde fresh meat, to serve them upon such an extremity: And the fruits and roots that grew there, afforded them so great plenty of food, as they multiplyed abundantly. So that the Natives of the leeward Ilands, that were at the distance of sight, comming thither in their Cannoas, and Periagos, and finding such Game to hunt, as these hogs, and the flesh so sweet and excellent in tast, they came often thither a hunting, and stayed sometimes a month together, and so returned again at pleasure, leaving behinde them certain tokens of their being there, which were, Pots, of severall sizes, in which they boyled their meat, made of clay, so finely tempered, and turned with such art, as I have not seen any like them, for finenesse of mettle, and curiosity of turning, in England. This information I received from the Planters in Barbadoes. But being here a Prisoner, in the Upper Bench Prison, my chance was to meet with an antient Captain, and one of those that first landed on the Iland; and had the managing of a good part of the Iland, under William late Earle of Pembrok, before my Lord of Carlile begg’d it of King James. This Captain Canon (for so was his name) inform’d me for certain, that this was a grosse mistake in the Planters, and that no Indians ever came there: But those Pots were brought by the Negres, which they fetcht from Angola, and some other parts of Africa; and that he had seen them make of them at Angola, with the greatest art that may be. Though I am willing to believe this Captain, who delivered upon his knowledge, that the Negres brought some Pots thither, and very finely and artificially made; yet, it does not hinder any man from believing, that the Indians brought some too; and who knowes, which were the most exactly made. For, ’tis certain, that from some part of the Iland, you may see (in a clear day) St. Vincents, perfectly: And if we can see them, why may not they see us; and they will certainly venture to any place they see, so far as they know they can reach before night, setting out very early in the morning. But I leave you to credit which of these you please, either, or both.

But I have a great inclination to believe, the Indians have been there, for this reason, that the Iland of St. Vincents, lying in the same Climate with this of Barbadoes, the Clay may be of the same nature and qualitie; and they, having the skill to bring their Clay to so fine a temper, as to burn and not break, may shew us the way, to temper ours of the Barbadoes so, as we may make Bricks to burn, without chopping or cracking; which those of Angola, being far off, and it may be, their Clay of different temper, cannot help us in. And it is no hard matter, to procure an Indian or two, to come from that Iland, and give us direction, which would be of infinite use and advantage, to our buildings in Barbadoes. But this digression must not lead me out of the way of my businesse.

This discovery being made, and advice given to their friends in England, other Ships were sent, with men, provisions, and working tooles, to cut down the Woods, and clear the ground, so as they might plant provisions to keep them alive, which, till then, they found but straglingly amongst the Woods. But having clear’d some part of it, they planted Potatoes, Plantines, and Mayes, with some other fruites; which, with the Hogs-flesh they found, serv’d only to keep life and soul together. And their supplies from England comming so slow, and so uncertainly, they were often driven to great extremities: And the Tobacco that grew there, so earthy and worthlesse, as it could give them little or no return from England or else-where; so that for a while they lingred on in a lamentable condition. For, the Woods were so thick and most of the Trees so large and massie, as they were not to be falne with so few hands; and when they were laid along, the branches were so thick and boysterous, as required more help, and those strong and active men, to lop and remove them off the ground. At the time we came first there, we found both Potatoes, Maies, and Bonavists, planted between the boughes, the Trees lying along upon the ground; so far short was the ground then of being clear’d. Yet, we found Indico planted, and so well ordered, as it sold in London at very good rates; and their Cotten wool, and Fustick wood, prov’d very good and staple commodities. So that having these foure sorts of goods to traffick with, some ships were invited (in hope of gain by that trade) to come and visit them, bringing for exchange, such commodities as they wanted, working Tools, Iron, Steel, Cloaths, Shirts, and Drawers, Hose and Shoes, Hats, and more Hands. So that beginning to taste the sweet of this Trade, they set themselves hard to work, and lived in much better condition.

But when the Canes had been planted three or four years, they found that to be the main Plant, to improve the value of the whole Iland: And so, bent all their endeavours to advance their knowledge in the planting, and making Sugar; Which knowledge, though they studied hard, was long a learning. But I will forbear to say any thing of that, till I bring in the Plants; where you shall finde not only the colour, shape, and qualitie of this Plant, but the worth and value of it, together the whole processe of the great work of Sugar-making, which is the thing I mainly aime at: But, in my way to that, I will give you a sleight description or view, of the Iland in generall: and first, of the Scituation.

The Scituation.

It were a crime, not to believe, but that you are well verst in the knowledge of all parts of the known habitable world; and I shall seem impertinent, if I go about to inform you of the scituation of this Iland. But, because there have been some disputes between Seamen, whether it lie in bare 13 Degrees, or in 13 Degrees and 30 Minutes, I shall easily be led by the most voices, of the most able Seamen, to give for granted, that Carlile Bay, which is the Harbour where most of them put in, is 13 Degrees and 30 Minutes from the Line, to the Northern Latitude.

This Bay is, without exception, the best in the Iland, and is somewhat more then a league over; and from the points of Land to the bottom of the Bay, is twice as much.

Upon the most inward part of the Bay, stands the Town, which is about the bignesse of Hounslo, and is called the Bridge; for that a long Bridge was made at first over a little nook of the Sea, which was rather a Bog then Sea.

A Town ill scituate; for if they had considered health, as they did conveniency, they would never have set it there; or, if they had any intention at first, to have built a Town there, they could not have been so improvident, as not to forsee the main inconveniences that must ensue, by making choice of so unhealthy a place to live in. But, one house being set up, another was erected, and so a third, and a fourth, till at last it came to take the name of a Town; Divers Store-houses being there built, to stow their goods in, for their convenience, being neer the Harbour. But the main oversight was, to build their Town upon so unwholsome a place. For, the ground being somwhat lower within the Land, than the Sea-banks are, the spring-Tides flow over, and there remains, making a great part of that flat, a kinde of Bog or Moraste, which vents out so loathsome a savour, as cannot but breed ill blood, and is (no doubt) the occasion of much sicknesse to those that live there.

At the time of our arrivall, and a month or two after, the sicknesse raign’d so extreamly, as the living could hardly bury the dead; and for that this place was neer to them, they threw the dead carcases into the bog, which infected so the water, as divers that drunk of it were absolutely poysoned, and dyed in few houres after; but others, taking warning by their harmes, forbare to taste any more of it.

The ground on either side the Bay, (but chiefly that to the Eastward) is much firmer, and lies higher; and, I believe, they will in time, remove the Town upon that ground, for their habitations, though they suffer the Store-houses to remain where they are, for their convenience. But the other scituation, may be made with some charge as convenient as that, and abundantly more healthfull.

Three Bayes there are more of note in this Iland; one, to the Eastward of this, which they call Austin’s Bay, not in commemoration of any Saint, but of a wilde mad drunken fellow, whose lewd and extravagant carriage, made him infamous in the Iland; and his Plantation standing neer this Bay, it was called by his name. The other two are to the West of Carlile Bay; and the first is called Mackfields Bay, the other Spikes Bay; but neither of these three are environ’d with Land, as Carlile Bay is: but being to the Leeward of the Iland, and good Anchorage, they seldome are in danger; unlesse in the time of Turnado, when the wind turnes about to the South; and then, if they be not well moor’d, they are subject to fall foul on one another, and sometimes driven aground. For, the Leeward part of the Iland being rather shelvie then rockie, they seldome or never are cast away.

The Extent.

The length and breadth of this Iland, I must deliver you only upon trust; for, I could not go my selfe about it, being full of other businesse, but I had some speech with the antientest, and most knowing Surveyer there, one Captain Swann, who told me, that he once took an exact plot of the whole Iland, but it was commanded out of his hands by the then Governour, Sir Henry Hunks, who carried it into England; since which time, neither himselfe, nor any other, to his knowledge, had taken any; nor did he believe, there was any extant. I desired him yet that he would rub up his memory, and take a little paines in the survey of his Papers, to try what could be found out there, that might give me some light in the extent of the Iland, which he promised to do; and within a while after, told me, that he had found by some Papers, that lay scattered in his Study, the length of it; but for the breadth, it was very uncertain, by reason of the nooks and corners that reach’d out into the Sea, so that it must of necessity be broad in some places, and narrow in others. I desired then to know, how many miles the broadest, and how few the narrowest parts might be. He told me, that he guest, the broadest place could not be above seventeen miles, nor the narrowest under twelve; and that the length, he was assured, was twenty eight miles. Out of these uncertain grounds, it was a hard matter to conclude upon any certainties; and therefore the evenest way I can go, is, upon a Medium, between twelve and seventeen; and, I will be as modest as I can in my computation; and take but 14. which is lesse then the Medium, and multiply 14. which is supposed to be the breadth, by 28. which is assured to be the length, and they make 392 square miles in the Iland. Beyond this, my enquiries could not reach, and therefore was compell’d to make my estimate upon this bare Supposition. But, for the forme of the Superficies of the Iland, I am utterly ignorant; and for the Upright, I have given it you in my first view of the Iland, that it rises highest in the middle.