INDEX.

Abencerrages, Hall of the, Alhambra, 189, 190 Accident to the Correo Real, near Burgos, 47 Aceite, Puerta del, at Seville, 264 Adventure with robbers, 209 Aguadores and Aguadoras of Madrid, 79 Alameda, the, of Granada, 171, 172 Alcala de los Panaderos, 257 Alcantara, bridge of, at Toledo, 119 Alcazar, the, at Toledo, 119; at Seville, 270, 271 Algives, Plaza de los, 179 Alhama, 212, 213 Alhambra, the, 177, 178; the Zacatin and Plaza Nueva, 177; the Gate of Justice, 178; the Plaza de los Algives, 179; the Patin de las Arrayanes of Alberca, or Mezouar, 180; Hall of Ambassadors, 181-183; the Tocador, 183; Garden of Lindaraja, and Bath-room of the Sultana, 185, 186; Hall of the Two Sisters, 186; of Abencerrages, 186; the Taza de los Leones, 187, 188 Alicant, 296, 297 Aloe-tree, 159 Altar, high, in the cathedral of Toledo, 124 Amistad, Fonda de la, at Madrid, 58 Andalusia, entrance to, by the Puerta de los Perros, 157 Anecdote of Spanish Robbers, 110-112; of the Jews at Toledo, 134, 135; of a Calesero, 200 Angoulême, 4; frescoes at, 4 Aranjuez, royal residence of, 148 Architecture, usual style of, at Madrid, 85-87 Armeria, the, at Madrid, 93, 94; in the Alhambra, 179 Arms, manufactory of, at Toledo, 141, 142 Aspect of Granada, 167 Astigarraga, inn at, 17; supper at, 18, 19 Authors, Spanish dramatic, 235 Baile Nacional, at Vittoria, 23, 24; at Malaga, 230 Banderillas, 68; de fuego, 71 Banderilleros, the, 61-64 Baño de la Cava at Toledo, 137 Barcelona, the cathedral at, 301 Bath of Florinda at Toledo, 137, 138 Bathing in the Tagus at Toledo, 121-136 Bath-room of the Sultana, Alhambra, 184 Bautista, J., builder of the Escurial, 104 Baylen, 159; the church, 160 Bayonne, 120 Bidassoa, bridge over the, 14 Billiard-playing at Madrid, 86 Berruguete, tomb of the Cardinal at Toledo, by, 140 Blades of Toledo, 141, 142 Blanca, Count de Florida, village founded by, 158 Boabdil, king, 179 Bordeaux, 6-10; hotel touters at, 7; the theatre, 8; the grisettes, 8; the cathedral, 8; Tower of St. Michael, 8; vault of Mummies, 9; Hospice des Vieillards, 10; the museum, 10; the port, 10; the theatre, 10 Bradamant and Galiana, legend of, 135, 136 Bridge of boats across the Guadalquiver at Seville, 263 Briones, Francisco, of Madrid, the picador, 223 Briviesca, village of, 26 Bucaros, and mode of using them, 89 Buen Retiro, palace at Madrid, 94 Bull, the, in the arena at Madrid, 67-69 Bull-fight, description of a, at Madrid, 57-73; at Malaga, 221-229; at Jeres, 284-288 Burgos, 27-45; public place at, 27; romantic appearance of the beggars at, 27; the convicts, 27; the fonda, 28; fountain, 29; the cathedral, 30-41; the Puerta de Santa Maria, 41, 42; Cartuja de Miraflores, 42-45; General Thibaud and the Cid's bones, 45 Cacin, 212 Cadiz, 277-282; the Calle San Francisco, 277; appearance of the town, 278; Plaza de Toros, 279; ramparts, 279; the Voltigeur, 280, 281; Cadiz from the sea, 282 Calderon de la Barca and his plays, 232 Calesero, the, 143 Calle d'Alcala at Madrid, 60 Calle de Carretas at Madrid, 60 Calle de Parragas at Granada, 165 Calle de los Caballeros at Ecija, 242 Campeador (see Cid) Caramanchel, village of, 114 Caratraca, 238 Carbon, Puerta del, at Seville, 264 Cardinal's Hospital at Toledo, 140, 141 Caridad, Hospital de la, at Seville, 272 Cartagena de Levante, 295, 296 Carthusian Convent, Cartuja de Miraflores, 27; visit to, 42, 44; at Granada, 194, 195 Carvings in wood and stone in Burgos Cathedral, 30, 31, 38; the Passion of our Lord, stone carving by Philip of Burgundy, 35; stalls of Burgos Cathedral, 35, 36 Casa del Cordon at Burgos, 41 Casa de Pupilos at Granada, 164 Castil de Peones, village of, 26 Cathedral of Bordeaux, 8; of Burgos, 30-41; of Toledo, 119-125; of Jaen, 160, 161; at Seville, 265-270; of Barcelona, 301 Cellini, Benvenuto, statue of the Escurial attributed to, 109 Cervesa de Santa Barbara con limon, 82 Chains at San Juan de los Reyes, at Toledo, 131 Charlemagne and Galiana, legend of, 135, 136 Charles III., statue of, at Burgos, 27 Château Regnault, 2 Châtellerault, 3 Chulos at Madrid, 61-64 "Christ on the Cross," at Burgos, 31 Cid, the, his chest at Burgos, 32, 33; his bones, 45 Coffee-houses at Madrid, 81-83 Cormana, 257 Cordova, 246-255; magnificent gateway, 246; appearance of Cordova, 247; Mosque at Cordova, 249-254; the Foundling Hospital, 255; the Guadalquiver, 255 Cork-tree, the, 11 Cormana, 257 Cornelio, the Cicerone of the Escurial, 107 Correo Real, el, the Spanish diligence, 49 Costume of the ladies at Madrid, 75, 78, 90; of the men, 79; of the peasants of Andalusia, 162; of the inhabitants of Granada, 167-169 Court of Lions, Alhambra, 185-189 Covarubias, builder of the Alcazar at Toledo, 119 Crickets kept in cages at Madrid, 83 Cristina, the, at Seville, 261 Cubzac, Bridge of, 6 Dances, national, aversion to among the higher classes, 92 Dangers of the Spanish roads, 210, 211 Darro, the, at Granada, 168 Dax, 11 Depopulation of Spain, 54 Diez, Matilde, the actress, 232 Dogs used at bull-fights, 71, 72 Dome of the Escurial, 109 Dos de Mayo, monument to the victims of the, at Madrid, 93 Drama, Spanish, its utter decline, 232, 233 Dramatic authors, Spanish, 255 Dueñas, 50 Duque, the Alameda del, at Seville, 260, 261 Eagles on the Sierra Nevada, 204 Ecija, 241, 242 Encampment on the mountains, 205, 206 Environs of Madrid, 147; of Malaga, 218; of Cadiz, 278 Equipages at Madrid, 74 Ernani, town of, 19 Escopeteros, 14 Escurial, visit to the, 103-112; foundation of the building by Philip II., 104; its gloomy appearance, 104; formed like a gridiron in honour of St. Lawrence, 105; curious colour of the walls, 105, 106; the courtyard and church, 106, 107; the blind cicerone Cornelio, 107; the Pantheon, 107, 108; the sacristy, 108; the library, 108, 109; marble figure of Christ, attributed to Benvenuto Cellini, 109; the dome, 109 Espada or Matador, the, 64, 69, 70 Exchange, the, at Seville, 270 Excitement of spectators at a bull-fight, 71-73 Extortion at Spanish inns, 238, 239 Fan, the, universally used in Spain, 75, 76 Farmhouse hospitality, 241 Fire sold at Madrid, 81 Florinda's Bath at Toledo, 137, 138 Fonda San Estaban at Bayonne, 12; at Castile, 28; de la Amistad at Madrid, 58; del Caballero at Toledo, 116, 117 Fountain with statue of our Saviour at Burgos, 29; at Madrid, 80-97; of Lions, Alhambra, 186-188 Francisco, Calle San, 277 Frescoes at Angoulême, 4 Furniture of Spanish houses, 88 Galera, the Spanish, 49 Galiana's Palace at Toledo, 134, 135 Garbanzo, the, 19 Gaspacho, or cold garlic soup, 216, 217, 241 Gateway at Cordova, 276 Gatien, St., at Tours, 3 Generalife, the, near the Alhambra, 189 Gibraltar, 291-295 Gitanos and Gitanas at Granada, 193, 194; at Seville, 265 Gomeles, Calle de los, at Granada, 169 Goya, Francisco, his works and life, 95-102 Granada, 164-207; Fonda del Comercio, 164; Louis the cicerone, 164, 165; the Calle de Parragas, 165; view of the Alhambra, 166; the Darro, 166; general aspect of Granada, 167; the inhabitants, 167, 168; picturesque costumes of the peasantry, 169; the Spanish tailor, 170; the Alameda, 171; the Xenil, 171; Tertulias, 173; the Zacatin, 177; the Alhambra, 177-192; the Gitanos and Gitanas, 192, 193; Monte Sagrado, the Carthusian convent, 194, 195; Monastery of San Juan de Dios, 195, 196; Convent of San Geronimo, 196; Convent of San Domingo, 196, 197; baths of Granada, 197, 198; Society at Granada, 198-201; ascent of the Mulhacen, 201-207 Gregorian and Mozarabic rituals, 126, 127 Guadarrama, 57 Guadalquivir, the, 160, 257, 262, 274-276 Guevara, dramatic author, 232 Guilhen de Castro, dramatic author, 233 Guzman, Antonio, the actor, 91 Hall of Ambassadors, in the Alhambra, 181-183; of the two Sisters, 185 Harvest and harvest carts, 150 Heat of the weather at Madrid, 89; at Toledo, 117; at Ocaña, 149 Heaths near Valladolid, 53 Hercules, the French, at Vittoria, 23 —— grotto of, at Toledo, 138-140 Hernani, ou l'Honneur Castillan, 53 Herrera, builder of the Escurial, 105 Homenaga, the tower of, in the Alhambra, 179 Horses of Andalusia, 207 Hospice des Vieillards, at Bordeaux, 10 Hospital, Foundling, at Cordova, 256 Host, unwillingness of the people to worship the, 146 Houses, underground, near Vendôme, 2; at Toledo, 118; at Ecija, 243 Iced drinks—bebidas heladas, 81, 82 Illescas, town of, 115; Moorish remains near, 115 Impartiality of the Spanish public, 226 Inns, Spanish, extortion at, 238 Irun and its bridge, 13 Isle of Pheasants, 13 Jaen, city of, the cathedral, 161-163 Jarras, for cooling water, 87, 88 Jeres, bull-fights, ridiculous and tragical episodes, 284-288 Jewish synagogue at Toledo, 133 Juan, Don, de Marana, founder of an hospital at Seville, 272 Juan Eugenio Hartzembusch, the author, 229 Juliano, count, father of Florinda, 137 Justice, the gate of, in the Alhambra, 178 La Carlotta, road from Ecija to, 243; the inn, treachery of our hosts, 244, 245 La Guardia, town of, 151 Ladies of Madrid, 75, 76 Lady, our, of Toledo, 129 Landes, the, 4; desolate appearance of, 11 Lanza the cosario, 208 Legend of our Lady of Toledo, 121, 122; of Galiana's palace, 135, 136; of Florinda's bath at Toledo, 137, 138; of Rodriguez and the Moors, 138-140 Library of the Escurial, 108, 109 Lindaraja, garden of, in the Alhambra, 184 Longa, or Exchange, at Seville, 270 Lope de Vega, the author, 233 Los Perros, Puerto de, 156 Louis, the cicerone of Granada, 164, 165 Lucar, San, on the Guadalquiver, 276 Luna, Don Alvar de, chapel of, at Toledo, 125 Lyceum, the, at Granada, 198 Madrid, 57-102; approach to the city—arid scenery, 57; Puerta de Hierro, 58; Fonda de la Amistad, 58; bull-fight, description of, 57-73; the matador or espada, 59; the Calle de Carretas, 60; the Calle d'Alcala, 60; Calesins, 60; Manolas and Manolos, 60, 77, 78; the Plaza de Toros and Toril, 60, 61; chulos, banderilleros, picadores, and aficionados, 61; interior arrangement of the arena, costume of the actors, &c., 62-65; Sevilla the picador, 65, 66; the bull, 67-69; Juan Pasta, the espada, 69, 70; the spectators and their excitement, 71-73; the Prado, 73; equipages of Madrid, 74; ladies of Madrid—the mantilla and fan, 75, 76; the Spanish type, 77; costume of the men, 79; trade in water and fire, 79-81; the Manzanares, 80; coffee-houses—the Bolsa, the Café Nuevo, Café del Levante, &c., 81, 83; iced drinks—the bebida de naranja, de limon, de fresa de guindas, &c., 81, 82; quesitos, little ices, 82; newspapers in the coffee-houses, 83; the Puerta del Sol, 83; the post-office, 83-85; cigars, 84; political conversation, 84; the houses at Madrid, 85-87; billiards, 86; Spanish preserves, 86; jarras for cooling water, 87; heat at Madrid, 89; Bucaros, 89; parties, or tertulias, 89, 90; morals, 90, 91; deference paid to women, 91; the Teatro del Principe, 91, 92; Spanish dancers and dancing, 92; the queen's palace, 92; the meeting of the Cortes, 93; monument to the victims of the Dos de Mayo, 93; the Armeria, 93; carriages of Joanna of Aragon and of Charles V., 93; fountains, 94; bridge of Toledo, 94; the Buen Retiro and its fantastic gardens, 94; the museum, 95; cabinet of Natural History and pictures—Goya and his works, 95-102 Maïquez, funeral column in memory of, 171 Majos, the, 162; at Granada, 169 Malaga, 219-236; Negro galley-slaves, 219; parador of the three kings, 219, 220; travelling students, 220; Circus at Malaga, 221; beauty of the Spanish women, 221-223; national airs, 223; the picadores Antonio Sanchez, Jose Trigo, and Francisco Briones, 223; Montes and Jose Parra, the matadores, 224, 225; the Napoleon of the herd—failure of Montes, 227, 228; rage of the populace, 228, 229; the theatre, 229, 230; the dancers, 230-232; theatres and dramatic authors in Spain, 232-234 Manners of the Spaniards, 90, 91, 198-201 Manolas and manolos at Madrid, 60, 77-78 Mantilla, the, worn at Madrid, 76, 170 Manzanares, the town of, 153 Mastodon, bones of, in the museum at Madrid, 95 Mayoral, the Spanish stage-coachman, 46 Media Luna, used at bull-fights, 285 Michael, St., tower of, at Bordeaux, 8 Miguel Cervantes, statue of, at Madrid, 93 Miquelets, or gendarmes, 212 Miranda, 24 Mondragon, village of, 20 Montalban, dramatic author, 232 Montes, the Espada, 208, 224-229 Mosque at Cordova, 249-254 Monument to Charles the Fifth at Granada, 178 Mountains near Olmedo, 55 Mozarabic chapel at Toledo, 125 Mules, Spanish 14, 46, 47; their obstinacy, 210, 214 Muleta, the, 69 Mulhacen, ascent of the, 201-207 Mummified corpses in St. Michael's Tower, 8, 9 Murillo, his "Ecce Homo" at Burgos, 31; beautiful paintings by, at Seville, 272 Museum at Bordeaux, 10; at Madrid, 95 Napoleon, the, of the herd, 226-228 Navajas, knives sold at Santa Cruz and Albacete, 155 Negro galley-slaves at Malaga, 219; killed at a bull-fight at Jeres, 288 Nevada, Sierra, 160; ascent of, 201, 207; intense cold on the, 206 Novel baths at Granada, 197, 198 Nueva, Plaza, at Granada, 177 Ocaña, 149 Ocean, the steamer, at Jeres, 288, 289 Olmedo, 54; deserted appearance of, 52 Orchaterias de Chufas at Madrid, 82 Organs in Burgos Cathedral, 39; at Barcelona, 301 Oyarzun, 17 Palace, the Queen's, at Madrid, 92, 93 Pantheon, the, in the Escurial, 107, 108 Pancorbo, Pass of, 25; romantic appearance of, 25 Parador, the, at Jaen, 161; at Malaga, 219 Pasiega, the Spanish Nurse, 54; at Madrid, 78 Passion of our Lord, stone-carving, 35 Pasta, Juan, the Espada, 69, 70 Patio, the, 149; de los Arrayanes, 180 Picadores, 61, 63, 64; Sevilla, the, 65-69; Rodriguez, the, 66-68 Pictures by Murillo, Jordaens, Theotocopuli, Delacroix, and others, in the Cathedral of Burgos, 31, 32-34; the Holy Family in Burgos Cathedral, 39; Martyrdom of Santa Casilda, 40; Collection in a Church at Valladolid, 51; Pictures by Raphael, Titian, Paolo Veronese, Rubens, Velasquez, Murillo, and others, in the Museum at Madrid, 95; in the Cabinet of Natural History, works of El Greco, Murillo, and Goya, 95-102; of Velasquez, Maella, and others, in the Palace at Madrid, 92; works of Titian, Raphael, Paolo Veronese, &c., in the Museum at Madrid, 95; works of Murillo, Ribeira, and Goya, in the Academy, 95-102; in the sacristy of the Escurial, 108; by El Greco, at Toledo, 140, 141; by Murillo, at Seville, 272 Pine-trees in the Landes, 11 Plaza de Toros at Madrid, 60, 61 Politicians of Madrid, 84, 85 Portraits (see Pictures). Posada, the Spanish, 26; near Olmedo, 55; at Jaen, 162 Post-office at Madrid, 85 Prado, the, at Madrid, 73 Preserves, Spanish, 86, 87 Priests, Spanish, 20 Procession of the Corpus Christi at Madrid, 145, 146 Puchero, the Spanish national dish, 18, 19 Puerta de Santa Maria at Burgos, 41; de Hierro at Madrid, 57; Del Sol at Madrid, 83, 84; Del Sol at Toledo, 115 Puerto Lapiche, 152 Pyrenees, the, 12, 16 Quails kept in cages at Madrid, 83 Quebrada, tower of, 179 Quevedo, dramatic author, 282 Quintanapalla, village of, 26 Ravine of Los Molinos, 189, 190 Road from Valez-Malaga to Malaga, 217 Road to Jeres, 283 Robbers, anecdote of Spanish, 110-112; adventures with, 209; their position in Spain, 235, 236 Rodrigo, archbishop of Toledo, lays the first stone of the cathedral, 123 Rodriguez, Antonio, the picador, 66-68 Rojas, dramatic authors, 232 Roman amphitheatre at Toledo, 142 Romea, Julian, the actor, 91 Romero, Alexandro, the huntsman's guide, 201 Rueda, dramatic author, 232 Ruins of fortifications near Baylen, 160 Ruins of Italica, near Seville, 263, 264 Sacristy, the, in the Escurial, 108 Sagrado, Monte, at Granada, 194 Saint Jean de Luz, 13 Saint Louis, Reliquary of, at Toledo, 127 San Domingo, Granada, 197 San Juan de los Reyes, at Toledo, 119, 130-133 San Juan de Dios, Convent of, 195, 196 Salinas, hill of, 20 Santa Cruz, 155 Santa Maria de los Nieves, 55 Sanchez, Antonio of Seville, the picador, 223 Saynete, a comic piece, at Malaga, 230, 231 Servant-girls, Spanish, 28 Sevilla the picador, 65-67, 72, 73 Seville, 258-273; general appearance of the city, 258, 259; beauty of the women, 259; their little feet, 260; the Alameda del Duque, 260, 261; the Cristina, 261; the Guadalquiver, and the Torre del Oro, 261, 262; Murillos at Seville, 263; Bridge of Boats, 263; Ruins of Italica, 263, 264; the Puerta de Triana, 264; Puertas del Carbon and del Aceite, 264; Gitanas, 265; the cathedral, 265-270; the Lonja or Exchange, 270; the Alcazar, 270, 271; tobacco manufactory, 271, 272; the Cigarera of Seville, 272; Hospital de la Caridad, founded by Don Juan de Marina, 272; beautiful paintings by Murillo, 272; the circus, 273 Sierra Morena, the, 155-157 Siesta, the, 149 Smuggling, human, 13 Soldiers, Spanish, their contentment and good-humour, 151 Spires of the cathedral of Toledo, 129, 130 Stalls in Burgos Cathedral, 35, 36 Students singing in the streets, 220 Suspiro del Moro, el, 179 Synagogue, the Jewish, at Toledo, 133 Tailor, the, of Granada, 169, 170 Tarifa, and the African coast, 296 Tagus, the, at Toledo, 119, 120 Tauromachia, school of, at Seville, 273 Tembleque, 151, 152 Temperance of the Spaniards, 148 Tertulias, or parties, at Madrid, 89, 90; at Granada, 173-176 Theatre at Bordeaux, 10; at Burgos, 42; at Valladolid, 52-55; Teatro del Principe at Madrid, 91; at Malaga, 229-233 Thibaut, General, and the Cid's bones, 45 Tirso, dramatic author, 232 Tizona, the Cid's sword, 45 Tobacco, manufactory of, at Seville, 271, 272 Tocador, the, in the Alhambra, 183, 184 Toledo, 115-143; the Alcazar, 119; the cathedral, 119-125; the Gregorian and Mozarabic ritual, 125-127; Our Lady of Toledo, 128, 129; San Juan de los Reyes, 130-133; the synagogue, 133, 134; Galiana, Karl, and Bradamant, 134-136; the bath of Florinda, 136-138; the grotto of Hercules, 138-140; the cardinal's hospital, 140, 141; Toledo blades, 141 Tolosa, 19 Tomb of the cardinal at Toledo, 140 Toril, the, at Madrid, 61 Toros, Plaza de, at Cadiz, 279 Torre del Oro, the, at Seville, 261 Torrents near Oyarzun, 17; near Olmedo, 55 Torrequemada, town of, 47, 48 Tours, bridge of, 3 Travelling students singing for money at Malaga, 220 Triana, Puerta de, at Seville, 264 Trigo, Jose, of Seville, the picador, 223 Urrugne, 42 Val-de-Peñas and its vineyards, 154, 155; name signifying "Valley of Stones", 155 Valencia, 297-299 Valencianos, 56 Valez-Malaga, 216 Valladolid, 50-53; San Pablo, 50, 51; collection of pictures, 51; Museum, 51, 52; Plaza de la Constitucion, 52; Compo Grande, 52; Theatre, 52, 53 Vase of the Alhambra, 181 Vela, tower of, in the Alhambra, 179 Vendres Porte, 301 Venta de Trigueros, 50 Vergara, 19, 20 Virgin, chapel of the, at Toledo, 127 Visit to a Morocco merchant at Gibraltar, 296, 297 Vista Allegro, Fonda de, 283 Vittoria, 21-24; the Parador vejo, 21; the Church, 22; the Theatre, Baile Nacional, and the French Hercules, 23, 24 Voltigeur, visit to the brig, 280, 281 Wagons drawn by oxen, 5, 15 Wardrobe of Our Lady of Toledo, 129 Water, sale of, at Madrid, 79, 80 Water-melon, the, 213; refreshing qualities of, 213 Women, number of old, in Old Castile, 26; of Madrid, 75, 76; beauty of the women of Malaga, 221; of those of Seville, 259, 260 Zacatin, the 177 Zagal, the Spanish, 15

THE END.

Savill & Edwards, Printers, Chandos Street, Covent Garden.