Front matter
Reading edition
Transcriber's Note:
Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have been preserved. Anglicized, archaic, or otherwise unusual spellings of proper nouns were retained as printed. Examples include "Botzen", "Kapuzingerberg", "Schonberg" and "Wencelaus". Inconsistent use of diacritics was also retained as printed. Obvious typographical errors were corrected.
A MAP TO ILLUSTRATE TYROL AND ITS PEOPLE
TYROL AND ITS PEOPLE
THE GOAT HERD, KASTELRUTH, NEAR BOZEN
TYROL AND ITS PEOPLE
BY CLIVE HOLLAND
WITH SIXTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR BY ADRIAN STOKES THIRTY-ONE OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP
METHUEN AND CO. 36 ESSEX STREET W.C. LONDON
First Published in 1909
PREFACE
In the following pages, which in addition to being a record of travel in a delightful and too little known portion of the great Austro-Hungarian Empire, are also an attempt to present within a reasonable compass an account of the national history of a singularly interesting people, the author has sought to deal more fully than is usually the case in books of the kind, with the romance and legend which is closely interwoven with the past of "the land within the mountains," as Tyrol has not inaptly been described.
It is truly a land of mountains, valleys, lakes, and rushing torrents that may well have bred the race of romance-loving, poetic, and hardy people who dwell in it. In the minds of those who know it there arises almost inevitably a comparison with the nowadays overcrowded and over-exploited Switzerland—and the comparison is, both as regards scenery and general interest, greatly in favour of Tyrol. The tourist and holiday-maker who frequent Pontresina or St. Moritz will find in this comparatively new "playground for Europe" beautiful counterparts of those places in Innsbruck, Meran, Botzen, Kitzbühel, and other delightful towns; whilst the more strenuously inclined who delight in mountain ascents will find the Dolomite region especially attractive, and in many other districts also interesting climbs. By the shores of the placid, translucent lakes, and in many a happy, secluded valley, those in search of rest and quietude will find their desire fully satisfied. And in such old-world towns as Innsbruck (of many historical memories), beautiful Salzburg, charming Bregenz, Botzen, and Meran the traveller with more artistic, literary, or antiquarian tastes will delight.
That Tyrol deserves to be better known few who have once come under the spell of its charms of scenery, and the frank hospitality and friendliness of its people, or have wandered amidst its lovely valleys and mountains, will deny.
The early history of this interesting country is shrouded in much mystery, and to place accurately and date many events is a matter of very considerable difficulty, and in some cases of well-nigh impossibility, owing to the fragmentary nature of many of the existing records, and the contradictory nature of the accounts and evidence afforded by these. The greatest care, however, has been taken to make the dates given as accurate as possible, and the best authorities and descriptions of events have been consulted. Amongst others the works of Dr. Franz Wieser, Hans Semper, Von Alpenburg ("Mythen und Sagen Tirols"), Perini ("Castles of Tyrol"), Weber ("The Land of Tyrol"), an excellent and interesting anonymous guide to Salzburg, Scherer, Albert Wolff, V. Zingerle, Steub ("Die Verfassung Tirols"), Miller, and the excellent publications of the Tirol and Salzburg Landesverbaende für Fremdenverkehr, and other organizations.
The spelling of names has presented much the same difficulty as the correct dating of events. There are several, and in some cases many, ways of spelling a large number of these. That of the latest edition of Baedeker has been adopted where this has been the case and doubt has existed.
The author's especial thanks are due to Herr L. Sigmund, the Secretary of the Austrian Travel and Information Bureau, not only for much valuable information, but also for practical assistance whilst travelling in Tyrol, facilities afforded for research, and the use of some excellent photographs.
To W. Baillie Grohman, Esq., of Schloss Matzen, Brixlegg, the well-known authority upon Tyrol, for the settlement of several disputed dates and accounts of historical events. Also for permission to make use of information (not otherwise easily procurable) contained in his exhaustive work "Tyrol, the Land in the Mountains," and for the beautiful photograph of Schloss Matzen reproduced as one of the illustrations in this present volume.
To Dr. Richard Muendl, Imperial Councillor, Chief Inspector of the Imperial Southern Railway, and a member of the German and Austrian Alpine Society, for many valuable notes upon the Dolomite Region incorporated in Chapter X.
To Dr. Otto Rosenheim the author's thanks are given for permission to reproduce some beautiful photographs of Tyrol scenery and Tyrolese subjects in place of less pictorial work by the author himself.
To many others, who gave information to the author during his travels in Tyrol, relating to many interesting matters, acknowledgment is also here gratefully made.
C. H. June, 1909
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I PAGE
THE ROMANCE AND HISTORY OF TYROL FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES DOWN TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY 1
CHAPTER II
TYROL FROM ITS INCORPORATION BY AUSTRIA AS A PART OF THE EMPIRE TO THE PRESENT TIME 33
CHAPTER III
SOME CHARACTERISTIC LEGENDS, CUSTOMS, AND SPORTS 52
CHAPTER IV
INNSBRUCK, ITS HISTORY, PEOPLE AND TREASURES 71
CHAPTER V
THE ENVIRONS OF INNSBRUCK—CASTLE AMBRAS AND ITS TREASURES—IGLS: A QUAINT LEGEND CONCERNING ITS CHURCH—THE STUBAI VALLEY, AND SOME VILLAGES—HALL AND ITS SALT MINES—SPECKBACHER'S OLD HOME—ST. MICHAEL 113
CHAPTER VI
SALZBURG, ITS HISTORY AND ROMANCE 147
CHAPTER VII
THE ENVIRONS OF SALZBURG—HELLBRUNN, ITS UNIQUE FOUNTAINS AND GARDENS—THE CASTLE OF ANIF—THE GAISBERG—THE KAPUZINGERBERG—THE MOZART-HÄUSCHEN—THE MÖNCHSBERG—SALZBURG CHURCHES 176
CHAPTER VIII
SOME TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF SOUTH TYROL—MERAN, BOZEN, KLAUSEN, BRIXEN, SPINGES, STERZING, MATREI 192
CHAPTER IX
SOME TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF WALSCH-TYROL: TRENT, ITS HISTORY, COUNCIL, AND BUILDINGS—ROVEREDO AND DANTE—ARCO—RIVA 233
CHAPTER X
AMONG THE DOLOMITES, WITH NOTES UPON SOME TOURS AND ASCENTS 254
CHAPTER XI
THROUGH THE UNTER-INNTHAL: KUFSTEIN—KUNDL—RATTENBERG, AND THE STORY OF WILHELM BIENER—BRIXLEGG, AND ITS PEASANT DRAMAS—THE FAMOUS CASTLE OF MATZEN—ST. GEORGENBERG, AND ITS PILGRIMAGE CHURCH—CASTLE TRATZBERG—SCHWAZ 281
CHAPTER XII
THROUGH THE OBER-INNTHAL: ZIRL, ITS CHURCH, LEGENDS, AND PAINTED HOUSES—THE MARTINSWAND AND MAXIMILIAN—SCHARNITZ—LANDECK—BLUDENZ—BREGENZ AND ITS LEGEND OF THE MAID 311
INDEX329
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
IN COLOUR
FACING PAGE
THE GOAT HERD, KASTELRUTH, NEAR BOZEN Frontispiece
VIEW FROM THE RITTEN, LOOKING SOUTH-WEST28
THE SCHWARZHORN, SOUTH TYROL40
A VIEW OF THE TYROL ALPS54
THE ORTLER FROM THE MALSER HEIDE68
MOONRISE IN TYROL94
A PINE WOOD NEAR INNSBRUCK108
MOUNTAIN POOL ON THE RITTEN128
A QUIET PASTURE166
WINTER NEAR MERAN192
A SOUTH TYROL FARMSTEAD208
SUMMER-TIME NEAR ST. ULRICH, GRÖDENERTHAL226
ALPENWIESE, ON THE SEISER ALP256
MOUNT LATEMAR276
A WAYSIDE SHRINE IN A PINE WOOD298
AUTUMN IN SOUTH TYROL314
IN MONOTONE
FACING PAGE
A VILLAGE ON THE BRENNER 10
From a Photograph by Dr. Otto Rosenheim
YOUNG TYROL 18
From a Photograph by Dr. Otto Rosenheim
A WAYSIDE SHRINE, TYROL 24
From a Photograph by Dr. Otto Rosenheim
ABOVE THE ARLBERG TUNNEL32
SUNSET ON A TYROLESE LAKE 36
From a Photograph by Clive Holland
A TYPICAL TYROLESE LANDSCAPE 36
From a Photograph by Clive Holland
THE TRISANNA VIADUCT AND CASTLE WIESBERG72
A PEEP OF THE ZILLERTHAL72
THE FAMOUS "GOLDEN ROOF," INNSBRUCK78
A TYPICAL INNSBRUCKER88
VIADUCT ON STUBAI RAILWAY130
VIEW OF THE GROSSGLOCKNER130
THE MARKET PLACE, HALL134
THE HALL VALLEY—WINTER142
MOZART'S HOUSE IN THE MAKART PLATZ, SALZBURG 152
From a Photograph by Clive Holland
ONE OF THE FINEST DOORS OF THE STATE APARTMENTS IN THE FORTRESS, SALZBURG 164
From a Photograph by Clive Holland
MOUNTAIN PASTURES 178
From a Photograph by Dr. Otto Rosenheim
HOHEN-SALZBURG AND THE NONNBERG 182
From a Photograph by Clive Holland
SALZBURG MARKETWOMEN 190
From a Photograph by Clive Holland
MERAN198
SCHLOSS TYROL, NEAR MERAN202
A STREET IN BOZEN206
ST. CYPRIAN AND THE PEAKS OF THE ROSENGARTEN212
MISURINA LAKE 262
From a Photograph by Dr. Otto Rosenheim
A ROAD THROUGH THE DOLOMITES264
A PEEP OF THE DOLOMITES 270
From a Photograph by Clive Holland
THE LANGKOFEL 272
From a Photograph by Dr. Otto Rosenheim
A PEEP OF KITZBUHEL286
SCHLOSS MATZEN 294
By kind permission of W. A. Baillie Grohman, Esq.
LANDECK AND ITS ANCIENT FORTRESS320
CHURCH INTERIOR, TYROL 324
From a Photograph by Clive Holland