INDEX

A.

A-chia Fu-yeh, 285–6.

Ali, Shukr. See Shukr Ali.

Allen, 398.

Ann Pass, 56.

Antelope considered as food, 180.

Argoons, origin of, 32, 247.

B.

Baga Nor, 257.

Baltal, 23.

Bana tribes, 238–9, 247; sham fight, 251; 252, 255; entering a camp of, 256, 257.

Baramula, 4, 7, 10.

Barkhalu, 104–5, 112, 114.

Barong, 194, 215, 216, 219, 227, 234, 240, 246.

Batoum, 388.

Bayan Gol, 228, 240, 241, 247.

Blue Lake. See Koko Nor.

Bota Pass, 223.

Botham, Mr. and Mrs., 329.

Botham, Mr., 329, 330–1.

Bower, Major, 3, 78, 81.

Bread in China, 324.

Brown, Colonel, 411.

Buddha, religion of: reincarnation test, 279; 282; etiquette, 288; K'ombo, 291; praying-wheels, 225, 291–2; 295.

Burhan Bota, 220, 233.

Burhan Bota Pass, 223.

Butterfield and Swire, 415, 416.

C.

Calcutta, 209, 2.

Canton, 415, 421.

Carville, Mr., 419.

Cash, Chinese, 361, 363–4.

Chagoti, 7.

Cha-Ha-La-Po, 381, 385.

Cha-Ha-Pa-La, 379, 384.

Cha-ka-ri, 385.

Chang, the, 188, 376.

Chang Chenmo, 47.

Chang Kia Tsai, 324, 331.

Cha-tao, 385, 394.

Chemre, 41, 47.

Ch'enkook, 261.

Chen-Lao-Pan, 263, 265, 267–8, 345, 363, 368, 371.

China: Tibetan tribute, 208; Tibetan trade with, 209–10.

China Inland Mission, 330.

Chinese peculiarities; etiquette, 265–6, 327–8; official exemptions, 325; money, 363–4; school-teaching, 368; inns, 372–3; burial, 374, 402; measurements, 386; local terms, 388 (note); superstition (spirit's paper), 391–2; method of rewarding by fame or infamy, 392; contorted feet, 405.

Chong-Chang-Tsi, 331.

Chong Wei, 330–2, 335–6, 341 et seq., 372, 383.

Chotenchenbo, 74.

Chu, 301.

Chulas. See Fireplaces.

Chu Ma River, 1, 165, 202, 234.

Chumatang, 44, 47. Crocus sativus, 14.

Cunjian, 43, 47.

Curzon, Right Hon. George, 7.

D.

Dapsoga, 223.

Darjeeling, 292.

Dass, Lala Bishan, 32.

Deasy, Captain, 65.

Denbigh, Mr. 415.

De Trouille de Rhins, 248, 296–7.

Domel, 7.

Donlung, 47.

Dragon Colt's Island, 278.

Dras, 24.

E.

Eggs in China, 372.

Egu, 41, 47.

Esau (Esa Tsareng), 32, 48, 54, 70, 101; bears ill news, 106; 112, 115–16, 121, 147, 149–50; goes off with Malcolm in search of people, 173; returns, 174; 177, 184; sent to reconnoitre a camp, 191, 192; his report, 193–4; 195–8, 201, 210, 224; reconnoitring with Wellby, 228 et seq.; 255 et seq.; offers a contemptibly small tip, 261; 316, 326, 338, 356, 379, 396, 417, 418, 422.

F.

Fireplaces (chulas), 92–3, 139, 185, 188, 221, 224.

Flora collected in Tibet, 423.

Flower temple, 294.

Forbes, Mr. W. H., 415.

Forbes & Co., 263, 342, 345, 346, 353, 367.

Fu, defined, 388 (note).

Fu T'ai, the, 284.

Fu-yeh. See Mina Fu-yeh, Shertoch Fu-yeh, A-chia Fu-yeh, and Mété Fu-yeh.

G.

Gabet, 376, 392 (note).

Gagangir, 23.

Galsworthy, Captain, 421.

Goa considered as food, 180.

Gold-tiled temple, 283, 287 et seq.

Golok, the, 215, 218–9.

Gompa Soba, 258–9.

Goond, 20.

Great Wall of China, 383–4, 394, 396–7, 398.

Green glazed-tiled temple, 293.

Grey, 398.

Grosvenor, Hugh, 412.

Gulf of Pe Chili, 329, 330, 393.

Gunderbul, 19.

Gya, 43, 47.

Gya nullah, 42.

H.

Hadji, Bakr, 54, 65–6.

Hall, Mr., 262, 297, 319–20.

Hallaling, the bigotry of the men illustrated by, 57, 75, 128; conquering prejudice, 139.

Hankow, 412.

Han-Shih-Pu, 331.

Han-Uen-Sheo, 303.

Hart, Sir Robert, 411.

Hatuturgy, 255.

Helmet Hill, 118.

Hemis nullah, 41.

Henston, Surgeon-Major, 416.

Herma, 43, 47.

Herring, Sergeant, 406 (text and note).

Himalayas, Western, 273.

Ho, General, 307, 309.

Ho Cheo, 300, 314.

Ho K'eo Tsi, 326.

Ho La, 263.

Ho-Lo-Si T'ai, 380, 384.

Hong Kong, 416, 420.

Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Co., 416.

Hoogly, the, 421.

Ho Tsui Tsi, 325.

Hsang Ho Ri, 270, 273.

Hsian Fu, 330.

Hsiao Hsia, 324.

Hsieht'ai, the (of Tankar), 265, 267–8.

Hsien, defined, 388 (note).

Hsi Ho, 270.

Hsing-Ping-Ho, 383, 385.

Hsiun-Hua-Ting, 298, 300, 310.

Huai-lai-hsien, 385.

Hua Miao, 294.

Huang Ho, 326, 337, 355.

Huc, 376, 392 (note).

Hunan, 274.

Hunan soldiers, 309–10.

Hunter, Mr., 329, 330.

I.

Ih-Tiao-Shan, 331.

Ih-Uan-Chuen, 331.

Iman Mula, 110.

Indus, 28, 40 et seq.

Io-kia-t'ong, 385.

Irwin, Dr., 416.

J.

Jesus Christ, the point of reconciliation with Tsong K'aba, 292.

Jhelum, 7.

Juma, 113.

K.

Kaba, 51.

Kangan, 20.

Kanjur Rungyum, 252.

Kanoo, 246.

Kansu, 273–4, 375. See also Mohammedan Rebellion.

K'an-T'ang-Tsi, 331.

Kargil, 27.

Keisir, 44, 47.

Kera, 43, 47.

Kerambutabuk, 72.

Kerinagar, 74.

Khalsi, 28.

Kharbu, 27.

Khe, an innkeeper, 401.

Khotan, 79.

Ki-mio-si, 385.

Knight, E. F., 23.

Koko Nor, 280, 311.

Koko Nor Lake, 238, 252, 255, 257, 278.

Koko Nor, Prince of, his daughter, 269; 283.

Kuei Hua Cheng, 374, 376, 384.

Kuei-Tê, 280.

Kuen Lun, 109, 110.

Kumbum, a visit to the monastery of, 269 et seq.

Kushok, the, 204 et seq.

Kyang (wild ass): described, 61; considered as food, 179–80.

Kyrma, 243.

L.

Labrang, 208 (note).

Ladakh, 18, 19, 56, 62, 63, 78, 79, 80, 89, 193, 222, 285, 335.

Lakes unnamed, 84 (fresh); 85 (salt); 92 (salt); 93 (fresh); 98 et seq. (fresh); 123 (two fresh); 125 (fresh); 129 (nearly fresh); 131–2 (dried-up salt bed); 133 (big salt); 138 (fresh); 146 (larger shallow salt); 156 (brackish); 158 (fresh); 174 and 176–7 (fresh).

Lala Bishan Dass, See Dass.

Lama of Chumatang, 44.

Lamayuru, 28.

Lanak La, 73, 75, 78 et seq., 93, 95, 141.

Lancheo, 114, 265, 297, 299, 305, 314, 315–6, 320, 324, 327–9, 331, 348, 372.

Lassoo, 32, 62, 106, 113, 147, 149–50, 182–3, 185, 191, 221, 224, 228–9, 324, 338, 379, 417, 419, 421–2.

Leh, 12, 13, 19 et seq., 28 et seq., 48, 51, 54, 55, 75, 107, 144, 189, 264, 422.

Leh, Wazir of, 112.

Lhassa, 31, 47, 69, 78, 130, 148–9, 153, 156, 193, 204, 208 (note), 209, 210, 233, 262–3, 267, 290, 292–3.

Li, General, 306 et seq.

Li, nature of distance in, 386.

Liang-Cheo, 299.

Lickse, 42, 43, 47.

Lighten, Lake, 91.

Lin-Hsien-Sheng. See Rijnhart, Peter.

Littledale, St. George, 7, 48, 112, 148, 323, 328, 348, 351.

Lobsan (Dsun Choni Lama), 233 et seq., parting from, 316.

Lou Ya, 324.

Ludhkong, 49, 52 et seq.

Lumberg, Mr., 348, 351, 354; his servant, 354.

Lusam Kindum, 263, 267.

Lusar, 291.

Lu-Tong-Tsi, 331.

M.

Macartney, Captain, 335.

Macdonald, Sir Claude and Lady, 406, 411.

Macdonald, Lady, 412.

Machahoi, 24.

Ma Chu. See Chu Ma.

Ma Huei Tsi, 325–6, 331.

Maie, 45, 47.

Malcolm, Lieutenant, 1; joins Wellby, 14; leaves him at Srinagar, 19; swims across the Indus, 44, 45; pigeon-missing, 46; kills an antelope, 75, 99; shoots a yak 79, 182; 89; doctoring Sulloo, 106; well-digging, 107; 113, 121, 123, 128, 134, 147, 149; discovers poisoned mules, 160; 167, 168–9; shoots a kyang, 170, 173, 189, 224; goes off in search of people, 173; returns, 174; 177, 181, 192, 201, 210; sells a spoonful of brandy, 211; shoots a bear, 225; sets off reconnoitring with Lassoo, 228 et seq.; rejoins Wellby with the Mongols, 232; 241, 255–6, 263; arrives at Tankar, 264; receives a present from Lusam Kindum, 267; 320, 327, 341; at Pao T'eo, 368; 379–80, 398, 421.

Malik, Mahomed, 7, 11, 20.

Manasbal, 20.

Māné, 181.

Mangtza-Tso, 66, 69.

Marmots, 169, 186–7.

Marsemik La, 47.

Mason, Mr., 329.

Metaiun, 24.

Mété Fu-yeh, 290.

Mina Fu-yeh, 270 et seq.

Mir, Duffadar Shahzad, 17, 19, 32, 46, 54, 78, 95, 113, 119; strange cure for a stomach-ache, 144; 147, 148, 150, 155, 184, 191; the Kushok inquires why he carries the square table, 216; 226, 228, 326, 338, 346; mistaken for a Salar at Chong Wei, 351; 379–80; missing, 390 et seq.; reappearance, 394; his opinion of the Chinese, 405; 419, 422.

Mitpah Conmah, 60.

Mitpah Yungmah, 60.

Mi-tour-chon, 384.

Mohammedan Rebellion, 274, 286, 289, 294, 296–7; the history of the, 298 et seq.

Monasteries, 27, 28, 269 et seq.

Mongol Camp (long), 384.

Mongol Camp (short), 385.

Mongols, the, their marriage and death ceremonies, 245.

Mulbeck, 27.

Mules, varieties at Leh, 31; affection between mule and pony, 55–6; pathetic death of a mule, 83; more deaths, 85, 88–9; a mutinous mule, 102; more deaths, 117, 119; reduced to twelve animals, 125; mules reduced to three by poison, 160–1; a troublesome survivor, 177–8; weights borne by Chinese mules, 315–16.

Mun, 51.

Murree, 7.

N.

Namoran Dawan (Pass), 223.

Namoran Gol, 227, 233.

Nanchang, the, 416 et seq.

Nan-Kou, 385, 398, 402.

Nan-Kou Pass, 397.

Nant-sing-ho, 385.

Napu La, 60, 64, 72, 74, 75, 76, 77.

Ni, 44, 47.

Niagzu, 49, 52, 53, 56 et seq., 141, 212.

Nicotine Kontal, 252.

Niempe, 305, 331.

Nimbri (the Kushok's servant), 200–2, 207, 210, 212, 215, 218.

Ning-Shia district, 359.

Ning-Shia-Fu, 335, 342, 345, 354.

Noring Hol, 248.

Nowshera, 1, 422.

Numa, 45, 47.

Nurla, 28.

Nurtse, 61.

O.

Ootoo, 241.

Ordos country, 342.

P.

Pal, 48.

Palans, effect of friction on animals and suggested improvement, 76.

Palgez, Munshi, 35.

Pamir Commission, 17.

Pangong Lake, 34, 47, 48, 49, 54, 56, 148.

P'an Ku, 296.

Pao T'eo, 114, 342, 345, 354, 360, 365–6; in the city, 367 et seq.; 379, 384.

Peh Ma Ssï, 323.

Peh-sie-ki, 384.

Pekin, 280, 323, 364, 371–2, 376, 380, 384–5, 391, 394–5, 398; in the city, 406; 411, 412, 415.

Penang, 421.

Peshawar, 13.

Ping-Chong-i, 304–6.

Ping-Fang, 305.

Polu road, 79.

Ponies, death of two, 80; death of the black mule's friend, 85; more deaths, 89; death of last pony, 161.

Porandu Pass, 54.

Port Said, 365.

Precious Hill, the, 283.

Prjevalsky, Colonel, 183.

Pu, defined, 388.

Q.

Quarry Bay, 420.

R.

Rahim, Mahomed, threatens to turn back, 96; terrible result of wrangling, 106; 112, 115, 117; despatched to scout, 131; return, 132–3; 154.

Ralma, 47.

Ramzana, 10.

Rawal Pindi, 1, 4.

Renki Yang Hong, 367.

Ridley, Mr., 297, 316 et seq.

Ridley, Mrs., 297, 304–5; farewell to, 320; 324.

Rijnhart, Dr., 269.

Rijnhart, Peter, 261 et seq.; 320 et seq.; services as interpreter at Chong Wei, 345–7, 351; anecdote of a lapsus linguæ, 352–3; 359, 364, 368, 376, 379–80, 382, 386–7, 396, 398, 402; his departure, 411–12.

Rockhill, W. W., 227, 260, 287 (note), 294 (note), 323 (text and note).

Roorkee, 114.

Ruby (fox terrier bitch), 3, 23, 75; has pups, 78; 99, 117, 166, 168, 224, 241, 246; lost, 337, 341.

Rudok, 47, 48, 60; officials from, 69 et seq.

Rundore, 66, 70, 74.

Rupees, curious predilection for crownless, 242, 260.

Russul, Ghulam, 112, 115, 127, 132; treachery of, 148.

S.

Sa-cheng, 385.

Sacred tree, 287.

Sakya Muni, 279 (note), 287–8, 398.

Salaki, 372, 384.

Salars, insurrection of, 299; loyalists, 304, 314.

Saspul, 28.

Seling Amban. See Koko Nor (Prince of).

Selling Gompa, 248.

Ser, 223.

Sha-ho, 385.

Shanghai, 330–1.

Shang Tan, 323, 325, 331.

Shan-Kia-Tong, 331.

Shantong, 311.

Sheep, the last, 98–9; sacrificed, 108.

Shen-Chong, 308.

Sherchichaba, 263.

Shertoch Fu-yeh, 281.

Sherwos, 42, 47.

Shey, 40.

Shih-Tsui-Tsi, 342, 363, 365, 372, 381.

Shih-Rong-Wa, 379, 384.

Shishi, 241.

Shuen-hua-fu, 385, 388 (text and note), 392.

Shuga Gol. See Shugatza.

Shugatza, 212, 214, 218, 220–22.

Shui-Peh-Ho, 331, 336.

Shui-Tsui-Tsi, 345.

Shukr Ali, 18; installed as cook, 20; 54, 107, 112, 115, 117, 132; readmitted to service, 154–5; 184, 191, 316, 326; paid off, 335.

Shushal, 34, 45, 49, 148.

Shushot, 40, 47, 50.

Siao Hsia, 304.

Siao-si-fu, 385, 388 (note), 389–90.

Si Ho, 320, 323, 326.

Sin Chen, 376.

Sin Ch'eng, 326 et seq., 331.

Sind Valley, 20.

Singapore, 421.

Sining, 208, 264; Fu of, 284; 292, 297 et seq., 317, 319, 331.

Sining Amban, 238, 284.

Sining Ho, 257.

Sining, the Tao Tai, 298–9, 303.

Sin-Tien-Pu, 301.

Si-Yang Ho, 384.

Sokpor Mongols. See Tsokpo.

Sonamerg, 23.

Southern Valley, 296.

Srinagar, 7 et seq., 19.

Su-kia-pu, 309.

Sulloo, terrible accident to, 106 et seq., 113, 120, 121; refuses to travel any more, 122, 127, 129.

Sumud Shah family, 10, 11.

Swedish Mission-house at Pao T'eo, 367 et seq.

T.

Ta Ho, 264.

T'ah-rï-sï, 308.

T'ah Ri Ssi. See Kumbum.

Ta Hsia, 324.

Ta Koe Ri, 270.

Ta-La-Pai, 331.

Talé Lama, the, 210, 270.

T'ang, Colonel, 306.

Tanjun, 65.

Tankar, 194, 209 (note), 210, 215, 246, 255, 257–9, 261–5, 269–70, 317, 342, 364, 365.

Tankar, Mayor of, 264–5.

Ta-ri-tsi, 384.

Ta Sand. See Ho La.

Tashgam, 27.

Ta T'ung, 325.

Temple of the God of Literature, 301.

Temples. See Gold-Tiled Temple, Green Glazed-Tiled Temple, Flower Temple, Temple of Pan Ku, Peh Ma Ssï; curious Buddhist temple, 375–6.

Teng, General, 299 et seq.

Tents, abandoned, 95.

Teo-tao-keo, 385.

Theodolite, breaking of, 135.

Tibetans: routine of the camp, 204 et seq.; courtesy and honesty, 208.

Tickse, 40, 41, 47.

Tien Tsin, 330, 385, 411, 416.

Ting, defined, 388 (note).

Tippoo, 18, 23.

Tiri, 44.

Tokhta, 13, 19, 112, 113–15, 121; refuses to travel any more, 122; 127, 129.

Tong Hills, 213.

Tong Ku, 416, 417.

To-Pa, 301, 310, 313.

Tour-tsi, 384.

Treb, Lake, 63, 76, 77.

Trench, Captain, 18, 75.

Tsaidam, 1, 215, 219–221, 227, 234, 264, 280, 316 (note).

Ts'ai T'a, 263.

Tsang-po-chu. See Indus.

Tsareng, Esa. See Esau.

Tsokpo Mongols, 229 et seq.

Tsong K'aba, 283, 287–90, 292.

Tsongt'u. See Sining Amban.

Tuling. See Selling Gompa.

Tuling Gol, 246, 247.

Tundu, 75.

Turkistan, 73, 130, 187, 248.

U.

Uang, Major, 299.

Uei-Kuang-Tao, General, 309, 310.

Umballa, 1.

Upchi, 42, 47.

Usman, 35, 36, 113, 143.

V.

Vaughan, 38.

W.

Walker, 398.

Ward, 38.

Wei Fou T'ai, General, 274.

Wellby, Captain: engages men, 7, 13; falls from his horse, 42; warned, 48–9; consultation with Rudok officials, 72; retreats across the Napu La, 74 et seq.; goes in search of lost animals, 89; bathing, 99; yak-shooting, 117, 139, 182, 211; leaving the sick men behind, 122; shooting running antelope, 128; desertion of the muleteers, 147; reappearance of deserters, 152–5; rearranges the loads after calamitous death of mules, 161–2; in lack of food, 168; shoots hares, 169, 177; difficult conquest of a kyang, 176; discovers a māné, 181; shoots a goa, 183; crossing a difficult river, 184; signs of an encampment, 188; with the Tibetan merchants, 197 et seq.; quits the Kushok's camp, 219; comes across signs of an unfortunate caravan, 222; observes a large prayer-wheel in a stone building, 225; sets off with Esau to reconnoitre, 228; meets some young Mongols, 229 et seq.; first sight of Mongol tents, 241; in Lobsan's family tent, 243; appropriates an inscribed bone in a wonderful cave, 252; the coldest night, 255; entering a Bana camp, 256; arrives at Tankar, 259; Mr. Rijnhart, 261 et seq.; visits the monastery of Kumbum, 269 et seq.; ghastly signs of the Mohammedan Rebellion, 296; Mr. and Mrs. Ridley, 297; first experience of a Chinese inn, 323; loses Ruby, 337; vexations at Chong Wei, 346–7; on the Yellow River, 354 et seq.; Pao T'eo, 367 et seq.; reaches Pekin, 406; carters arrested and beaten, 412, 415; arrival at Tong Ku, 417; on board the Nanchang, 418; at Hong Kong, 420; Singapore, 421; Calcutta, 421–2.

"Where Three Empires Meet," 23.

White Horse Temple. See Peh Ma Ssï.

Whitewashing, strange way of, 286.

Wo-Ku-Shan-Ho, 383.

Wolf, Eugène, 412.

Wu La, 273.

Wupu, 264.

Wu Tai, temple of, 375.

Y.

Yak: cemetery, 175; considered as food, 177, 179, 181; shooting, is it dangerous?, 183–4.

Yakiki, 43, 47.

Yang, Colonel. See Hsieht'ai.

Yangtse Kiang, 1, 234.

Yarkand, 335.

Yellow River. See Huang Ho.

Yellow Sect, 288.

Younghusband, Captain, 17, 18.

Z.

Zoji La Pass, 23, 24.

SKETCH MAP OF TIBET and NORTHERN CHINA Showing the journey of CAPT. M. S. WELLBY and LIEUT. MALCOLM from Leh to Peking.

Map to accompany "Through Unknown Tibet"

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MAP SHOWING CAPT. M. S. WELLBY'S and LT. MALCOLM'S ROUTE ACROSS NORTHERN TIBET.

Continuation E. Sheet II.

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MAP SHOWING CAPT. M. S. WELLBY'S and LT. MALCOLM'S ROUTE ACROSS NORTHERN TIBET.

Continuation W. Sheet I.

Continuation E. Sheet III.

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MAP SHOWING CAPT. M. S. WELLBY'S and LT. MALCOLM'S ROUTE ACROSS NORTHERN TIBET.

Continuation W. Sheet II.

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